Finland, a Nordic nation of 5.6 million, has been named one of Lonely Planet’s 25 Best Destinations in 2026 – and it’s not hard to see why the Finns are so happy
Finland’s people appear to have figured out the secret to a happy life(Image: alexsl via Getty Images)
One of the globe’s finest destinations also happens to be amongst Europe’s most sparsely populated.
Finland, a Nordic country home to 5.6 million people, has earned recognition as one of Lonely Planet’s 25 Best Destinations in 2026. The nation was the sole European country to secure a place on the list, though it did share its ranking with regions across Italy and Ireland, amongst others.
Recent years have seen considerable attention focused on Finnish contentment levels. This March, Finland claimed the title of the world’s happiest nation for an eighth consecutive year, as reported by the World Happiness Report 2025, reports the Express.
“Happiness isn’t just about wealth or growth – it’s about trust, connection and knowing people have your back,” said Jon Clifton, the chief executive of Gallup. If we want stronger communities and economies, we must invest in what truly matters: each other.”
The formula behind Finland’s contentment proves fascinating and complex.
Trust forms the foundation of Finnish culture. Numerous youngsters in the country bundle up warmly to attend woodland schools, even in the country’s northern regions during brutal Finnish winters.
They’re permitted to clamber, leap, scramble, and engage in countless other activities to their heart’s desire, with educators choosing to allow learning through experimentation rather than stepping in. Beyond this bedrock of trust lies an immense pride in their homeland.
Finland boasts one of the globe’s highest national service participation rates. Roughly 27,000 conscripts commence service annually, with approximately 80% of Finnish men fulfilling their duty. Moreover, increasing numbers of women volunteer for service, with more than 1,500 enlisting each year.
Another major contributor to Finnish contentment is the nation’s stunning natural landscape. Known as the Land of a Thousand Lakes, Finland features nearly 200,000 lakes and remains roughly three-quarters blanketed in woodland.
The nation serves as an ideal spot for witnessing the Aurora Borealis, visible on countless evenings, particularly throughout Lapland.
“Whether you are paddling through Finnish Lakeland in the golden light of a midsummer evening, feeling the heartbeat of Sámi reindeer-herding culture in Inari or embracing the bitter cold of Lapland on a dogsled ride as the northern lights come out to play, you will realize that Finnish happiness is tuning into nature, in touch with your inner child,” Lonely Planet writes.
Fortunately, there’s ample room to savour this magnificence.
Finland ranks amongst Europe’s most thinly populated nations, averaging merely 17 residents per sq km, contrasted with 227 per sq km in the UK. Lonely Planet’s Kerry Walker says if you do visit Finland, you shouldn’t leave without first embracing Sámi culture in Lapland.
“Give Santa the slip and head to Inari or, further north still, Utsjoki, for reindeer-driven sleigh rides and joik (rhythmic poems) sung around a flickering campfire in a simple lavvu tent. Go for the whole Arctic shebang with husky mushing, snowshoeing and ice fishing, then hole up in a log cabin, igloo or aurora-gazing dome to watch the flakes silently fall,” she suggests.
The Sámi inhabit Finland’s northern territory of Lapland, a region that extends into Sweden and Norway too.
Many still engage in age-old reindeer herding practices, though contemporary methods and gadgets like drones and snowmobiles are now employed.
If the prospect of holidaying somewhere with minimal crowds appeals to you, Mongolia could be perfect.
This vast landlocked nation, nestled between China and Russia, spans more than 603,000 square miles yet houses barely 3.5 million residents, making it the globe’s most thinly populated independent country.
Indeed, roughly half the nation’s inhabitants reside in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital city.
A three-part series on the realities of climate change – but with innovative solutions to safeguard our future.
This decisive decade demands unprecedented action to address humanity’s greatest challenge. With global access, this three-part series examines the real consequences of climate change for our civilisation, through the rest of the 21st century and beyond.
Irish journalist Philip Boucher-Hayes visits climate hotspots, from Greenland’s melting glaciers to sub-Saharan Africa’s weather extremes, from the flooding of agricultural land in Bangladesh to the thaw of the Siberian permafrost. He meets experts and witnesses who explain the interconnectivity of the world’s fragile ecology, as we reach tipping points from which there may be no return.
The series looks at new climate science and faces the harsh realities of a changing world – collapsing ecosystems, marine die-offs and escalating extreme weather phenomena. But it also explores a positive vision for reimagining economies, landscapes and infrastructure – and practical solutions, ways of mobilising collective resolve, and challenging humanity to become a transformative force, harnessing innovation to safeguard the future of civilisation.
Episode 1, Into the Storm, highlights the immediate and escalating effects of climate change. It opens in Ireland, where extreme weather events are becoming increasingly common. In Greenland, it explores the rapid melting of the ice sheet, with potentially devastating consequences – rising sea levels and disruptions to the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation (AMOC), the main ocean current system in the Atlantic Ocean. It also touches on the effects of climate change in Malawi and Siberia, a grim picture of widespread damage.
Episode 2, Against the Tide, focuses on adaptation strategies. It explores how countries and communities are responding to rising sea levels, increased flooding and more frequent droughts. The Netherlands serves as a case study in proactive adaptation, coming up with innovative solutions in the form of sea barriers and climate-resilient infrastructure. This episode also examines the challenges faced by vulnerable communities in Wales, Bangladesh and Florida.
Episode 3, Decarbonising the Global Economy, addresses the urgent need to transition away from fossil fuels. It opens with the world’s dependence on carbon-based energy sources and then explores ways to a cleaner, more sustainable future. It travels to Ukraine, the United States, Sweden, Finland and Florida, presenting a range of approaches to decarbonisation.
Throughout the series, experts from different fields offer insights into the latest climate science and potential solutions. The series aims to challenge viewers to confront the realities of climate change but also to inspire collective action. It emphasises the need for bold policies, innovative technologies and individual responsibility in safeguarding the future of the planet.
The meeting was supposed to be the prelude to the purchase of Finnish icebreaker ships.
But as United States President Donald Trump welcomed Finland’s President Alexander Stubb to the Oval Office on Thursday, he veered into a discussion of the North Atlantic Treaty Alliance (NATO) — and his ongoing feud with one of its members, Spain.
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At a NATO summit in June, Spain was the most prominent holdout against Trump’s push to increase defence spending among member states.
Trump has long sought for all NATO members to commit 5 percent of their gross domestic product (GDP) to building up their military assets. But Spain successfully pushed for an exemption at June’s meeting, allowing its expenditures to remain around the previous benchmark of 2 percent.
That resistance lingered on Trump’s mind at Thursday’s meeting, as he discussed the US commitment to NATO with Stubb.
“As you know, I requested that they pay 5 percent, not 2 percent,” Trump said of the NATO members.
“And most people thought that was not gonna happen. And it happened virtually unanimously. We had one laggard. It was Spain. Spain. You have to call them and find out: Why are they a laggard?”
He then mused about taking retribution: “They have no excuse not to do this, but that’s all right. Maybe you should throw them out of NATO, frankly.”
It was a bitter note in an otherwise friendly meeting with Stubb, whom Trump hosted in March at his Mar-a-Lago resort in Florida.
Since his first term as president, Trump has wavered in his public comments about NATO, at times embracing the alliance and, at other moments, rejecting it as “obsolete”.
But seated next to Stubb and Finnish Prime Minister Petteri Orpo, Trump took a decidedly enthusiastic approach to defending Finland, one of the newest members of NATO. It joined the alliance in April 2023, followed by Sweden less than a year later.
Reporters at Thursday’s Oval Office meeting pressed Trump about what he might do if Russia expands its war in Ukraine to other countries in Europe.
In Finnish politics, the spectre of Russian interference looms large: The former Soviet Union invaded Finland in the 1930s, and since Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, relations between the two countries have soured even further.
Finland closed its shared border with Russia in 2024, an international divide that stretches across 1,340 kilometres, or 841 miles.
“What if Russia and Vladimir Putin attacks Finland? Would you defend Finland?” one reporter asked Trump on Thursday.
Trump did not mince words in his reply. “I would. Yes, I would. They’re a member of NATO.”
He nevertheless cast doubt on the prospect of a Russian invasion under Putin.
“I don’t think that’s going to happen. I don’t think he’s going to do that. I think the chances of that are very, very small,” he said, turning to Stubb. “You have a very powerful military, one of the best.”
When pushed to specify how he might defend Finland in case of an attack, Trump offered one word in reply: “Vigorously.”
Those warm remarks offered a stark contrast with his approach to Spain. In the wake of the June NATO summit, for instance, Trump called Spain’s position “hostile” and threatened its economy, pledging to make it pay “twice as much” in tariffs to the US.
“I think Spain is terrible, what they’ve done,” he told reporters, accusing the country of taking a “free ride” at other countries’ expense. “That economy could be blown right out of the water with something bad happening.”
NATO was founded with 12 original members and has since expanded to include 32. Spain joined in 1982. So far, no members have ever been expelled.
Baltic and Nordic leaders in Denmark’s Copenhagen are meeting Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, who is on a diplomatic drive trying to cement security guarantees for Kyiv in the event of a peace deal to end Russia’s war in Ukraine.
“The heads of state and government will discuss how the Nordic-Baltic countries can ensure further support for Ukraine on the frontline and in the negotiating room,” Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen’s office said in a statement on Wednesday.
The gathering brings together the leaders of the Nordic-Baltic Eight (NB8) – Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Iceland, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway and Sweden – with Zelenskyy to discuss Ukraine’s future.
Finnish President Alexander Stubb said on Tuesday that progress was being made on security guarantees for Ukraine, but he stressed that such measures would only be implemented after a peace agreement is reached.
“We need to coordinate the security arrangements with the United States, which essentially will provide the backstop for this … We’re focusing on these issues with our chiefs of defence, which are drawing the concrete plans of what this type of operation might look like,” Stubb told reporters.
“We’re making progress on this and hopefully we’ll get a solution soon,” he said, while cautioning that he was not optimistic about a ceasefire or peace agreement with Russia in the near term.
Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy and Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen speak at a news conference on July 3, 2025, in Aarhus, Denmark [Martin Sylvest Andersen/Getty Images]
The ‘coalition of the willing’
NATO Secretary-General Mark Rutte said he expected clarity at a summit of Ukraine’s allies on Thursday “or soon after” on what security guarantees Europe can offer Kyiv once the war halts.
“I expect tomorrow, or soon after tomorrow, to have clarity on what collectively we can deliver,” Rutte said at a news conference with Estonian President Alar Karis in Brussels. “That means that we can engage even more intensely, also with the American side, to see what they want to deliver in terms of their participation in security guarantees.”
United Kingdom Prime Minister Keir Starmer and French President Emmanuel Macron will co-host Thursday’s mostly virtual meeting of leaders of the so-called “coalition of the willing” – a collection of Western states working on long-term guarantees for Ukraine, and NATO. Zelenskyy moves on to meet Macron tonight in Paris ahead of that summit.
Western officials have said such guarantees are aimed at deterring Russia from launching another war after hostilities end, whether through a ceasefire or a permanent peace deal.
They are expected to centre on continued military support for Kyiv, along with an international force to reassure Ukraine. However, European leaders have made clear that such a force would only be feasible with US participation.
United States President Donald Trump last month promised American involvement, but Washington has yet to spell out what it would contribute. Rutte sought to reassure eastern NATO members that resources for Ukraine’s security guarantees would not come at the expense of the alliance’s own defences.
“We have to prevent spreading our resources too thinly, and this means that we always have to look at what the impact will be on the NATO plans,” he said.
Moscow, meanwhile, rejects the idea of European peacekeeping troops on the ground in Ukraine, and insists that any future settlement must reflect what it calls “new territorial realities”.
Russian Foreign Minister Sergey Lavrov told Indonesia’s Kompas newspaper that regions annexed by Russia – Crimea, Donetsk, Luhansk, Zaporizhia and Kherson – must be “recognized and formalized in an international legal manner” for peace to last.
Trump has suggested any eventual deal would involve Ukraine ceding some territory, but many analysts believe one of Russian President Vladimir Putin’s core demands will be Ukrainian recognition of Moscow’s control over the parts of Donbas still under Kyiv’s authority.
Zelenskyy has repeatedly rejected such concessions, warning that losing any territory would embolden Russia to launch new attacks in the future. The Ukrainian constitution also forbids it.
Russia takes more territory in Kherson
As diplomacy continues behind the scenes, Russia’s assault continues to intensify across eastern Ukraine. Its forces claim to have encircled and now captured “about half” of Kupiansk, a strategic city in the northeastern Kharkiv region. Moscow’s Ministry of Defence also claimed its forces had seized the settlement of Fedorivka in Donetsk.
In the skies, Russia launched a sweeping overnight air campaign, striking targets across nine regions. Ukrainian officials said at least four railway workers were injured, while Poland scrambled defence aircraft as explosions echoed near its border.
Ukraine’s emergency services reported that five people were injured and 28 homes damaged in an attack on the Znamianka community in the Kirovohrad region. In Khmelnytskyi, transport services faced “significant schedule disruptions” after strikes damaged residential buildings and triggered fires.
Local authorities said two people were killed in Russian shelling of Polohivskyi district in Zaporizhia, while separate attacks caused deaths in Kherson, Kyiv region and Donetsk. The independent news outlet Kyiv Independent reported at least five civilians killed across the country in the latest wave of strikes.
Russia said it had shot down 158 Ukrainian drones in the past 24 hours, while claiming that Ukrainian attacks across its border killed 12 people and wounded nearly 100 in the past week. In the Belgorod region, Governor Vyacheslav Gladkov said a Ukrainian drone strike injured three people in the village of Proletarsky.
The diplomatic manoeuvring comes as Putin seeks to deepen ties with North Korea and China. His meeting on Wednesday with Kim Jong Un in Beijing, alongside Chinese President Xi Jinping at a grand military parade, underscored the growing partnership between Moscow and Pyongyang.
Trump responded by accusing the three leaders of conspiring against the United States – a claim dismissed by the Kremlin.
Unexpectedly, porridge is a Finnish obsession, available in petrol stations, schools and on national airline flights. But Helsinki’s gastronomic offerings are a lot wilder, featuring reindeer, moose, pike perch, salmon soup, herring, seaweed – and even bear meat. And from summer into autumn, Finns’ deep affinity with nature blossoms, fusing local organic produce with foraged berries and mushrooms. This inspires menus to feature whimsical fusions of textures and flavours, all straight from the land.
Garlanded with superlatives, from “friendliest” and “happiest” to “world’s most sustainable city”, this breezy Nordic capital is fast catching up on its foodie neighbours. Enriched by immigrant chefs, the youthful, turbocharged culinary scene now abounds in excellent mid-range restaurants with affordable tasting menus – although wine prices are steep (from €10/£8.60 for a 120ml glass). Vegan and vegetarian alternatives are omnipresent, as are non-alcoholic drinks, many berry based. Tips are unnecessary, aesthetics pared down, locals unostentatious and dining starts early, at 5pm. And, this being Finland, you can digest your meal in a sauna, whether at an island restaurant (Lonna) or high in the sky on the Ferris wheel (SkySauna).
Eat, sweat, swim – go Finn!
Nolla
Nolla has a Michelin green star. Photograph: Nikola Tomevski
Top of the table in zero-waste cred is pioneering Nolla (meaning “zero”), which even boasts a designer composter in one corner. It serves regularly changing taster menus (four courses €59, six courses €69) in an old townhouse with a relaxed, hip vibe. Led by Catalan chef and co-owner Albert Franch Sunyer, the 70-seater espouses localism and upcycling: staff uniforms are made from old curtains and sheets, while the base of a wine bottle becomes a butter dish. Nothing goes to waste, whether leftover bread or used coffee grounds (an ingredient in a roasted hay ice-cream). Goose is a recent innovation, roasted deliciously with honey turnips, parsnip puree and hazelnut crumble, while Finncattle carpaccio with a radish and tomato harissa dressing brings an exotic hit. With a Michelin green star, Nolla’s easygoing atmosphere and strict environmental policies make it a winner. restaurantnolla.com
Muru
Not far from Nolla, in the popular central area, is long-standing Muru, one of the first French-style bistros in Helsinki. Masterminded by award-winning sommelier Samuil Angelov, it’s intimate, with a slightly worn, rustic edge and eccentricities that stretch to a wine store at the top of a vertiginous ladder. The changing menus (four courses €59, two courses €39) are chalked on a blackboard in Finnish, which any waiter will translate – English is virtually a second language in Helsinki. Depending on the season, you might indulge in a starter of lavaret (freshwater fish) with pickled cucumber, radishes and dill flower, a nettle risotto with rhubarb and parmesan (risottos are Muru’s speciality) and end with a luscious pannacotta and strawberry dessert. murudining.fi
The Room
A gilded turnip at The Room, where ‘gold rules’. Photograph: Fiona Dunlop
This is where the Middle East comes to Finland – dramatically. Cloistered in a curtained room, 14 diners sit around a kitchen bar to watch Kurdish chef Kozeen Shiwan enact his gastronomic life story. This is represented by 14 meticulously conjured courses – from a single richly decorated olive (“Made in Suleymaniah) to a spicy quail’s leg buried in flowers (“Flora’s Quail”). Each dish is introduced by the chef’s witty patter. Gold rules, too, whether in Kozeen’s teeth, his necklace, or encasing a platter of glittering potatoes baked with amba sauce and roe before they sink into a mayo, saffron and olive oil sauce. It’s a memorable dining performance (€159), but make sure Kozeen is present on the night you book, and choose wine by the glass rather than the €119 wine pairing. kozeenshiwan.com
Finlandia Hall
Alvar Aalto’s monumental Finlandia Hall. Photograph: Fiona Dunlop
Nobody can visit Helsinki without paying homage to Alvar Aalto (1898-1976), the groundbreaking architect and designer who brought functionalism to Finland. After three years of renovation, his monumental Finlandia Hall, an events centre which opened in 1971, now includes a sleekly designed bistro and a cafe. Everything in the building is by Aalto, from lighting to furniture and brass fittings, explained in an illuminating permanent exhibition. On the food front, the bistro (open for dinner Thursday to Saturday) offers typically creative Nordic cuisine with Mediterranean accents (four courses €59, six courses €69, plus à la carte) in a moody interior. For more luminosity, or for lunch, head for Finlandia Café&Wine (open all week), with terrace views over the bay. Self-service snacks and drinks are backed up by a daily lunch special (€14.70) or a copious breakfast (€19.90) – porridge included, of course. finlandiatalo.fi
Down on the south harbour, beside a stretch of other eateries, Nokka’s spacious warehouse is full of nautical artefacts and enlarged sketches of wild animals. The philosophy of chef-founder Ari Ruoho, a keen hunter and fisher, is to bring Finland’s peerless “wild nature” on to the plate, nose to tail. Apart from the wild meat, there is a huge emphasis on organic vegetables. There are three menus (four courses €89, vegetarian €74, eight courses from €129) and à la carte options. The smoked bream mousse starter with pickled cucumber, cucumber sorbet and a crispbread combining fish skin with dried roe and pumpkin seeds (€24) is a revelation, as is tender roasted reindeer, seasonal vegetables and roast potatoes with grated elk heart. This is ambitious, perfectly honed food that easily justifies its Michelin green star. nokkahelsinki.fi
Lonna
Lonna restaurant. Photograph: Fiona Dunlop
Several thousand islands speckle the Gulf of Finland, so there’s no excuse not to hop on a ferry for a 10-minute ride to Lonna island. Here, recycling comes with a twist, as ageing military structures now house an eponymous restaurant with bar and terrace overlooking the Baltic. Add to that a beach, a sleekly designed sauna and views to Helsinki and you have a bucolic escape. The 60-seater Lonna restaurant is low key, with bare brick walls and gorgeous Finnish tableware, and is open May to September. Excellent-value menus (three courses €39) change monthly, offering local organic produce and plentiful vegetarian options, such as oyster mushrooms with barley and smoked tomato, or a meaty option such as organic pork with bok choi and trout roe. lonna.fi
Bona Fide
A tomato salad at Bona Fide. Photograph: Fiona Dunlop
In an elegant residential neighbourhood, this quirky little restaurant offers a four-course menu (€48) tweaked every few weeks. “We do what’s in season, using French technique and good ingredients from abroad, and only wild game or fish,” says Ilpo Vainonen, one of the two young chefs who are co-owners with sommelier and manager Johan Borgar. Like many of their peers, they make their own bread, which comes with a black olive dip. Every dish is presented superbly: try a starter combining fresh and semi-dried tomatoes framed by hazelnuts, cream cheese and tiny cherries, or an ice-cream in a puddle of olive oil served with a pan of stone fruits poached in rum syrup. Suddenly, a spoonful of raspberry sorbet coated in pink peppercorn appears. Divine. bonafide.fi
Lunch on the run…
Salami sliced … a reindeer-meat snack at Market Hall. Illustration: Fiona Dunlop
As most of the restaurants above open for dinner only, lunch during Helsinki’s summer is all about outdoor grazing. Ice-cream kiosks dot the city, while numerous lippakioski (wooden kiosks dating from the 1920s) provide drinks and snacks. Countless cafes include quaint Café Regatta, an old waterside fisher’s shack with terrace. The touristy Market Hall offers wide-ranging choices, from reindeer salami and salmon soup to Asian fast food. Inside Oodi, Helsinki’s spectacular central library, you can enjoy a bargain set lunch or take snacks on to the panoramic terrace. And as everyone has the right to forage, for dessert head for Central Park to fill your pockets.
It’s after 10pm and the sky has only just lost the high blue of the day. Sitting by the Baltic Sea, toes in the water, I gaze at distant, tree-covered islands as gentle waves lap over the long, flat rocks. I follow a rough, winding path back to my cabin, through woods so quiet you can hear the pine needles fall.
I’m in Santalahti woods, near Kotka on the south-east coast of Finland, on the trail of Finnish author, novelist, painter and illustrator Tove Jansson (1914-2001). Best known as creator of the Moomins, and for her love of island living, Jansson also wrote for adults. Last year, her first novel, The Summer Book, was made into a film starring Glenn Close and directed by Charlie McDowell. One film critic has described it as “an ode to Finnish archipelago nature”.
The Summer Book is a series of 22 vignettes on island summer living, featuring a young girl, Sophia, and her grandmother. I first read the slim volume in the early days of the Covid lockdown.
During that uncertain, fearful time, and every year since, reading it has been a balm, a reminder to slow down and pay attention. I’ve come to Finland to explore Finnish summer living, fill my lungs with archipelago air and try to find a little of the stillness and wonder that Jansson’s writing gives me.
Tove Jansson pictured in 1956. Photograph: Ian Dagnall Computing/Alamy
In Finland, summer is to be savoured. The south of the country receives just six hours of daylight a day in winter, and in the far north the sun remains below the horizon in December. It’s this darkness that makes Finns revere and celebrate summer. Schoolchildren get a 10-week summer holiday, and most Finns take July off work. Summer is mostly spent in one of the half a million summer cottages, known as mökki, usually by a lake or on one of the tens of thousands of islands scattered along the coastline.
Amenities vary, but there’s a deep affection for traditional rustic cabins: off-grid, without electricity or running water, and definitely no wifi. Cottage living, or mökkielämä, is focused on slow living in harmony with nature: time in the woods, in the sea, picking berries, and relaxing in the sauna.
I begin my journey on Pellinki, in the Porvoo archipelago, about an hour east of Helsinki. This part of Finland is bilingual. (Like 80% of Pellinki residents, Tove Jansson was a Swedish speaker; in Swedish the island is called Pellinge). It’s a quick hop across the water on a free ferry into a different, slower pace of life. Through the woods I spy dozens of cute red and yellow painted cabins, each by a stretch of water.
Tove spent many childhood summers on Pellinki, and she drew her first Moomin cartoon here – on the wall of an outhouse – as a teenager. To generate extra income, island families would rent their homes for the summer, moving into an outbuilding. Tove’s family rented the home of the boat-building Gustafsson family. Abbe Gustafsson, the same age as Tove, became a lifelong friend and the children turned their daily chore of milk collection into an elaborate challenge: there were trees to be navigated in one direction, streams to jump over and “evil” cracked rocks to sprint past.
The forested islands of Pellinki (Pellinge)
This childhood game was the inspiration for The Book about Moomin, Mymble and Little My, which has been adapted into the puzzle-solving outdoor Island Riddles trail. Clues are in rhyme, and I try a few, filtering water to make the next clue rise to the surface in a small well, and hunting for a red umbrella in the trees. “You just have to play like a child and use your imagination,” Erika Englund, a local who devised the trail, tells me.
From the woods you can see the small island of Bredskär, where the Jansson family built a house in 1947. Craving further solitude, Tove built a cabin on the even tinier island of Klovharun in 1964, where she spent 28 summers with her life partner, graphic artist Tuulikki Pietilä. The couple lived a very simple life here, with the island, each other, and their vast imaginations for company.
The landscapes of Pellinki, Bredskär and Klovharun are easily recognisable throughout Tove’s work in all mediums. The sea and the weather play a central role: storms rage, belongings are lost and found in the sea, and life is lived with respect for the elements.
Porvoo is the nearest town to Pellinki and a stopping point on the way to the archipelago. The old town is one of the best preserved in Finland, built after a catastrophic fire in 1760. I wander through the winding streets, admiring the colourful wooden homes and learning about the town’s history as a salt trading port, with Birgitta Palmqvist from Porvoo Tours.
Porvoo has one of the best preserved old towns in Finland. Photograph: Riekkinen/Getty Images
I stay at the handsome art nouveau-style Runo hotel in the town centre. The building has been a bank and the town library, and now has 56 minimal, Finnish-style rooms, changing art displays and an award-winning breakfast.
On the outskirts of Porvoo I visit Kannonnokka, where a sauna has been partly built into rock deep in the woods. Sauna culture is essential to Finns: in 2020, Unesco recognised Finnish sauna culture as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and there are an estimated 3.3 million saunas in a country of 5.6 million people (though everyone I speak to gives a higher number). Even in the tiny cabin on Klovharun there was a sauna in the cellar (more important than running water). Kannonnokka sauna is kept at 60C for longer, laidback sessions, with dips in the cold plunge pool and gently warm whirlpool bath. Afterwards, the young couple who run the venue cook delicious pancakes over the fire.
As a young artist, Tove painted murals for local buildings in towns along the Finnish coast. In Kotka, 50 miles east of Porvoo, a huge fairytale mural remains on show in the town’s youth work department. It’s a delight, with layers of stories, hidden Moomin characters and gemstone embellishments.
In Hamina, a neighbouring town, panoramic fantasy scenes decorate the walls of the town hall: mermaids flirt with cadets under water and shipwrecked treasure fills Hamina harbour. In Kotka, I visit Maritime Centre Vellamo, where Courage, Freedom, Love! A Moomin Adventurelaunched this year (it runs until March 2027) to mark 80 years since the first Moomin book was published.
Children can play inside a replica Moomin house, clamber on the rocks surrounded by an animated sea, and dress up in a little theatre. Also on display is Tove and Tuulikki’s boat, Victoria, built for the couple by Abbe Gustafsson.
From Kotka I catch a free ferry to Kaunissaari (90 minutes). The island’s name translates to “beautiful island” – fitting, given its pine forests, long white beaches and pretty marina. The harbour is a cluster of red wooden cottages with wildflower gardens, and boat sheds with spooled fishing nets outside. There’s a fascinating island museum, packed to the rafters with memorabilia from centuries of hardy island living. I follow winding paths through the trees to find a long, sandy beach, which I have all to myself. I can’t resist a swim – even without a sauna to plunge into. I warm up at Kaunissaaren Maja restaurant, where the simple salmon soup recipe has not changed in 70 years.
The cabin on the tiny island of Klovharun built by Jansson in 1964
Near Kotka I stay in my own little summer cottage. The amenities are basic: a kitchen diner and one bedroom, but of course a sauna. I set it to heat then spend an hour walking through the woods and around the bay, watching the sunset. The long daylight hours are perfect for happihyppely, a Finnish concept translated literally as “oxygen hopping”: taking a short walk for fresh air and exercise. Back at my cabin I jump between the heat of the sauna and dips in the icy Baltic Sea. I exhale, with the night, the light and the summer stretching out in front of me. I can see why Tove Jansson loved this coastline: all I need for a dreamy summer is right here.
The trip was provided by Visit Finland. Runo Hotel in Porvoo has doubles from €171B&B. Self-catering cabins at Santalahti resort start from €89 (sleep two); sauna cottages from €198 (sleeps up to four)
Finland’s Helsinki Airport has heated up the world’s first runway sauna in order to help incomers relax and unwind as soon as they arrive in the famously happy country
The world’s first runway sauna
The world’s first runway sauna has opened.
It is perhaps unsurprising that the world’s sauna capital, which is home to three million saunas or one for every two people, is the first to set one up on the tarmac. Finland’s Helsinki Airport has heated up the runway sauna in order to help incomers relax and unwind as soon as they arrive.
“Most airports have transit zones – some even have saunas. But only Helsinki Airport can offer a transit to Finnish happiness. It is the touchpoint to tune into the rhythm, values and mindset of Finland. Your story can go anywhere from here. To showcase this short transition, we built the world’s first runway sauna at Helsinki Airport,” says Anna Tuomi, Finavia’s head of marketing.
Helsinki Airport has been selected as the best airport in Europe seven times within the past eight years. According to Finavia, “it is a melting pot of diversity and a gateway to Finnish design and local values of trust and equity. The sauna culture welcomes everyone.”
The sauna fired up its burners as the planes took off
The word ‘sauna’ is the only Finnish word which has entered into mainstream usage around the world without being translated into other languages. It only takes approximately three hours from London and two hours from Berlin to land in Helsinki to experience the local sauna culture.
There are also three saunas right at the Helsinki Airport terminal — and more waiting in nearby hotels and around the airport area. From the airport, it’s only a short trip to explore the wide variety of saunas located across the Helsinki metropolitan area.
“Finland is known as the world’s happiest country and the timeless tradition of sauna is at the heart of Finnish culture. At Finavia, we’ve brought these elements together to celebrate Finnish happiness,” Tuomi added.
Aviation and saunas are two things that have been brought together before.
Ari and Jari Lehtinen, 57-year-old twins known for their unconventional sauna designs, have successfully launched their latest creation, which combines Finland’s love for saunas with getting up in the air.
The first of its kind hot air balloon sauna took to the skies(Image: The PC Agency)
The innovative flying sauna, weighing just 170 kg, ascended to an altitude of 2,300 metres during its inaugural flight, allowing its occupants to experience temperatures of 80 degrees Celsius while floating above the Finnish landscape. The flight lasted approximately one hour, with two sauna enthusiasts and two crew members on board.
Ari explained the motivation behind the project. “It’s always about attempting something that others don’t do. And sauna is always fun. People are usually in high spirits when saunas are involved. This is an incredibly good counterbalance for work,” he said.
This airborne sauna is the latest in a series of unique projects by the Lehtinen brothers. Previously, they created an underwater sauna, a hemp-constructed sauna, and a cowhide-covered mobile sauna. Their previous endeavours have taken them to extreme locations, including a sauna session atop Halti fell, Finland’s highest point, during a snowstorm.
Ukraine says Russia launched a record number of drones overnight on Monday, with President Volodymyr Zelenskyy describing the attacks as a sign that Moscow is “acting with impunity”.
Ukrainian air defences downed most of the 355 drones, but several broke through defences, causing casualties, according to authorities. Two elderly women were killed in Ukraine’s northeastern Kharkiv region, the regional governor said.
Russia, meanwhile, accused Ukraine of launching aerial attacks on its “social infrastructure”. The Ministry of Defence said it shot down at least 48 Ukrainian drones on Monday, after shooting down 96 overnight.
Russia’s state TASS news agency, citing the Defence Ministry, reported that Russian forces have taken over the villages of Volodymyrivka and Belovody in the northeastern region of Sumy.
The governor of Sumy said Russian forces had captured four other villages as part of an attempt to create a “buffer zone” on Ukrainian territory. He identified them as Novenke, Basivka, Veselivka and Zhuravka, and said that residents had long been evacuated.
The Ukrainian prosecutor general’s office said Russian attacks have killed 630 Ukrainian children and wounded 1,960 since the beginning of the war.
Russia’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs special envoy Rodion Miroshnik has accused the Ukrainian military of causing more than 400 civilian casualties in April, including with “inhumane methods of warfare”.
Military aid
German Chancellor Friedrich Merz announced that Ukraine’s key Western allies are no longer limiting the range of weapons they supply, a move the Kremlin said would be “dangerous”.
Ukraine says it has confirmed information that China is supplying a range of important products to Russian military plants, including tooling machines, special chemical products, gunpowder and components specifically to defence manufacturing industries.
Politics and diplomacy
The Kremlin responded to United States President Donald Trump’s remark that Putin has gone “absolutely crazy” over the scale of Russian air attacks, suggesting the US leader may be experiencing “emotional overload”.
It also said that serious work on Russia’s proposal for a possible peace deal for the war in Ukraine was ongoing and that a draft had not yet been submitted. “This is a serious draft, a draft of a serious document that demands careful checks and preparation,” spokesman Dmitry Peskov said.
Zelenskyy said Russia launched more than 900 drones as well as missiles towards Ukraine over three nights, and again called for intensified pressure on Moscow. “There is no military sense in this, but it is an obvious political choice – a choice by Putin, a choice by Russia – a choice to continue the war and destroy lives,” the Ukrainian leader said in his nightly video address.
French President Emmanuel Macron said he believes Trump is beginning to see that Putin “lied” to him about the war in Ukraine. He also called for the imposition of a deadline for Moscow to agree to a ceasefire, backed up by the threat of “massive sanctions”./li>
Danish Prime Minister Mette Fredericton also said that Russia’s attacks on Ukraine over the weekend proved that Moscow is not interested in peace.
Finland summoned Russia’s Helsinki ambassador to ask for an explanation regarding a suspected violation of Finnish airspace which took place last week. The NATO member said on Friday that it believed two Russian military aircraft entered its airspace off the coast of Porvoo in the southern part of the country.
These are the key events on day 1,184 of Russia’s war on Ukraine.
Here is where things stand on Friday, May 23:
Fighting
Ukrainian drones disrupted air traffic around Moscow, grounding planes at several major airports on Thursday, as 35 drones targeting the city were downed, according to Russia’s Ministry of Defence.
According to the ministry and Moscow mayor’s office, a total of 46 Ukrainian drones targeted Russia’s capital, while an additional 70 drones were launched against other targets across the country.
Russia launched 128 drones at Ukraine overnight, according to Ukraine’s air force, with 112 of those drones either shot down, jammed or were lost en route to their targets.
Russia said that 12 civilians were injured in a “massive” Ukrainian strike on the town of Lgov in Russia’s Kursk region.
Valerii Zaluzhnyi, the former top commander of Ukraine’s military who was known for clashing with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, said it was unlikely Ukraine would be able to return to the borders with Russia it held from 1991 until the Russian invasion of 2014. Even keeping Ukraine’s borders up until Russia’s full-scale invasion in 2022 may also not be possible, he said.
“I hope that there are not people in this room who still hope for some kind of miracle or lucky sign that will bring peace to Ukraine, the borders of 1991 or 2022 and that there will be great happiness afterward,” Zaluzhnyi told a forum in Kyiv.
Russia said it has received a list of names from Ukraine for a prisoner of war swap. A swap of 1,000 prisoners from each side was agreed to during a meeting last week between Russian and Ukrainian officials in Istanbul aimed at ending the war.
Regional security
Finland said it is closely monitoring a Russian military build-up along its 1,340km (832-mile) joint border with Russia. Finland closed the border with its neighbour in December 2023 when 1,000 migrants crossed its frontier without visas.
Economy
Following a meeting in Canada this week, the G7’s finance ministers said they would explore further sanctions on Russia if it fails to reach a ceasefire with Ukraine. They also said they will work to ensure “no countries or entities” that fuelled “Russia’s war machine” will be able to benefit from Ukraine’s reconstruction.
Moscow is moving to block foreign companies returning to Russia from accessing “buyback” options for assets left there when they pulled out following the 2022 invasion of Ukraine. The bill before Russia’s legislature allows “Russian citizens and companies to refuse to return assets to foreign investors, subject to a number of conditions”.
Estonia redirects maritime traffic to prevent future incidents after Russia’s detention of the Green Admire oil tanker.
Russia has detained a Greek oil tanker sailing under the Liberian flag as it left the Estonian port of Sillamae on a previously agreed route through Russian waters, the Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs says.
In a statement published on Sunday, the ministry added that the vessel, the Green Admire, was undertaking a navigational route established in a deal between Russia, Estonia and Finland.
The Baltic nation will redirect traffic to and from Sillamea exclusively through Estonian waters to prevent similar incidents in the future, it added.
“Today’s incident shows that Russia continues to behave unpredictably,” Foreign Minister Margus Tsahkna said. “I have also informed our allies of the event,” he said, referring to other NATO members.
Estonian Public Broadcasting (EPB), citing the Transport Administration, reported that the Greek tanker was carrying a cargo of shale oil destined for Rotterdam in the Netherlands. It added that such incidents had never occurred before.
Vessels leaving Sillamae usually move through Russian waters to avoid Estonia’s shallows, which can be dangerous for larger tankers, the EPB said.
The incident took place after the Estonian navy on Thursday tried to stop an unflagged tanker that was said to be part of a Russian “shadow fleet” of vessels sailing through Estonian waters. Russia responded by sending a fighter jet to escort the tanker, violating Estonia’s airspace.
The “shadow fleet” is meant to help Moscow maintain its crude oil exports to avoid Western sanctions imposed after its invasion of Ukraine.