We live in an interdependent world where no country or region is exempt from the effects of developments elsewhere. The transition into autocracies in other countries is not the exception. Autocratisation has escalated into a global wave. According to the latest V-Dem report, 45 countries are currently moving towards autocracy, up from just 16 in 2009, while only 19 are democratising. By 2024, 40% of the world’s population lived in autocratising countries.
Autocratic expansion represents a threat to liberal democracies in Europe and beyond, as political science’s only near-lawlike finding holds: democracies do not wage war against each other. In contrast, an autocratic Russia invades Ukraine and might quite possibly very soon attack the rest of Europe, as NATO’s General Secretary Mark Rutte alerted in Berlin on December 12: “We are Russia’s next target, and we are already in harm’s way… we must act to defend our way of life now”.
The link between democracy and peace was also at the centre of this year’s Nobel Peace Prize ceremony. In his address, Jørgen Watne Frydnes, Chair of the Norwegian Nobel Committee, emphasised that democracy is not only essential for peace within national borders, but also for peace beyond them. The award to Venezuelan opposition leader María Corina Machado, who insisted that the prize belongs to all Venezuelans, underscored that message.
Russia illustrates this connection with unusual clarity, and the Maduro regime is a close ally of the regime directly threatening Europe. Since Chávez, under whose rule Venezuelan democracy collapsed no later than between 2002 and 2007 (according to V-Dem), the Venezuelan regime has deepened its ties with China and Russia. The latter, particularly, became an important partner in the military and security realms. By providing weapons, equipment and intelligence support, Russia secured a geopolitically strategic foothold in South America. This allows Putin to project power into the Western hemisphere and to undermine US and European strategic interests.
Venezuela’s partnership with Russia follows a foreign policy logic of influence projection within the United States’ regional sphere, much as Washington has done in Eastern Europe. This relationship has taken the form of military cooperation, with Venezuela—alongside Nicaragua—becoming one of Russia’s main partners in Latin America.
A democratic Venezuela could reintegrate into Mercosur, opening an additional market under the forthcoming EU-Mercosur agreement—one of the EU’s tools for diversifying trade partners and reducing excessive economic dependencies.
While earlier cooperation included a visit of nuclear-capable Russian bombers to Venezuela in 2018, more recent ties have focused on military diplomacy: high-level defence meetings, training exchanges, and joint participation in initiatives such as the International Army Games. But despite Russia’s growing resource constraints following its invasion of Ukraine, reports of the construction of a new ammunition factory in Maracay (Aragua) and the presence of Russian “Wagner” mercenaries in Venezuela exemplify the possibility of going back to further military cooperation. The ammunition factory would specifically produce a version of the AK-130 assault rifle (developed in the Soviet Union) and a “steady supply” of 7.62mm ordnance under Russian license in spite of sanctions to avoid Russian ammunition exports.
Beyond the military sphere, Venezuela currently cooperates with Russia to mitigate the effects of Western sanctions. Together with Iran, both countries share shadow shipping networks that allow sanctioned oil exports to continue flowing, primarily towards China (surprise! Another autocratic country).
Thus, from a European Security perspective, Venezuela isn’t really a distant or marginal case. A Russia-aligned autocracy in South America strengthens Moscow’s global reach at a time when Europe is already struggling to contain Russian aggression on its own continent. Supporting democratic survival or democratisation abroad is not only a normative commitment, but a strategic interest: Europe’s democratic stability—and its own way of life—are reinforced when democracies elsewhere endure.
Democratisation in Venezuela could bring concrete benefits. It would weaken Russia’s standing among authoritarian partners that depend on its support and reduce diplomatic alignment against European priorities in multilateral forums. Such alignment was evident, for example, in the 2014 UN resolution condemning Russia’s annexation of Crimea, where several Latin American governments sided with Moscow. Moreover, a democratic Venezuela could reduce the US’ attention diversion from the Russia war on Ukraine, and it could weaken Russia’s potential leverage when looking for US-concessions, in exchange for their own concessions in Venezuela.
But this is also about not missing opportunities. A democratic Venezuela could reintegrate into Mercosur, opening an additional market under the forthcoming EU-Mercosur agreement—one of the EU’s tools for diversifying trade partners and reducing excessive economic dependencies.At a time when economic strength has become an existential priority for Europe amid rising geopolitical tensions, this matters. Before Mercosur, and in the more immediate period following a transition, Venezuela would require substantial investment to rebuild its economy. Historical economic and social ties already exist, shaped in large part by post–Second World War European migration to the country.
Repression is not confined to Venezuelan citizens. More than 80 foreign political prisoners have been reported, including Europeans from Italy, Spain, Poland, Portugal, Hungary, Ukraine and the Czech Republic.
In the path towards the stabilisation of Venezuela as a partner to democracies—instead of being a source of autocratic threat—the democratic mandate expressed by Venezuelans on 28 July 2024, when we elected Edmundo González Urrutia as president, is a crucial element to consider. González has since identified María Corina Machado as his intended vice-president in a potential transition.
In regards to the question about how to get there, the equation toward a democratic Venezuela does not only include measures to weaken the Maduro regime’s repressive capacity, but also strengthening democratic actors inside and outside the country. Many of these active citizens often move within resource-limited bounds—juggling work, precarious living situations and scarce resources for essential tools such as websites, digital security, travel for advocacy, and organisational infrastructure. Migrants in early integration phases do not necessarily count with abundant financial resources, yet they invest what they have into their democratic efforts.
At the same time, the regime’s repressive reach extends beyond Venezuela’s borders. Recent transnational attacks like the murder attempt against Luis Alejandro Peche and Yendri Velásquez in Colombia, the attempted attack on Vente Venezuela’s Alexander Maita, and the assassination of Ronald Ojeda in Chile highlight efforts to intimidate political mobilization even outside the country.
But repression is not confined to Venezuelan citizens. More than 80 foreign political prisoners have been reported until this month, including Europeans from Italy, Spain, Poland, Portugal, Hungary, Ukraine and the Czech Republic. Thus, limiting the regime’s repressive capacity is vital to incentivize crucial pro-democracy mobilization.In summary, Europe faces a choice. Supporting Venezuelan democratisation is not only a matter of global democratic solidarity, human rights, or European soft power in Latin America. It is a matter of self-preservation. The collapse of Venezuela’s once-stable 40-year democracy and Russia’s war on Ukraine both serve as reminders that democracy—and the peace it sustains—is not a given. It must be embodied, defended, and actively built when necessary.
Yury Ushakov’s remarks come a day after US and Russian officials held talks on the US proposal in Florida.
Published On 21 Dec 202521 Dec 2025
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Russian President Vladimir Putin’s top foreign policy aide says that changes made by European countries and Ukraine to the United States’ proposals for an end to Russia’s war on Ukraine did not improve prospects for peace.
“I am sure that the proposals that the Europeans and Ukrainians have made or are trying to make definitely do not improve the document and do not improve the possibility of achieving long-term peace,” Yury Ushakov was quoted as saying by Russian news agencies on Sunday.
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The US-drafted proposals for an end to the nearly four-year war, leaked to the media last month, raised European and Ukrainian concerns that they favour more of Russia’s wartime demands and that US President Donald Trump’s administration could push Kyiv into conceding too much.
Since then, European and Ukrainian negotiators have met with Trump envoys in an attempt to add their own proposals to the US drafts, though the exact contents of the current proposal have not been disclosed.
The remarks from Ushakov came after Putin’s special envoy, Kirill Dmitriev, met in Florida on Saturday with US special envoy Steve Witkoff and Trump’s son-in-law Jared Kushner. Dmitriev said the talks would continue on Sunday.
The Miami meeting followed US talks on Friday with European and Ukrainian officials.
In the wake of those talks, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy said his team should hold more talks with European allies.
“There is a shared sense that after the work by our diplomatic team in the United States, we should now hold consultations with European partners in a broader circle,” Zelenskyy said in a post on X on Sunday.
Three-way talks?
Zelenskyy had said on Saturday that Ukraine would back a US proposal for three-way talks with the US and Russia if it facilitated more exchanges of prisoners and paved the way for meetings of national leaders.
Ushakov said that a proposal for three-way talks had not been seriously discussed by anyone and that it was not being worked on.
Russia says that European leaders are intent on scuttling the talks by introducing conditions that they know will be unacceptable to Russia, which took 12-17 square kilometres (4.6 to 6.6 square miles) of Ukrainian territory per day in 2025.
Ukraine and European leaders say that Russia cannot be allowed to achieve its aims in what they call its imperial-style land grab.
Ukraine battles attempted Russian breakthrough
In Ukraine, fighting continues with the Ukrainian army battling an attempted Russian breakthrough in the Sumy region, it said on Sunday, following reports that Moscow forcibly moved 50 people from a border village there.
This marks a renewed Russian advance in the part of the region previously largely spared from intense ground fighting since Ukraine regained land there in a swift 2022 counter-offensive.
“Fighting is currently ongoing in the village of Grabovske,” Ukraine’s joint task force said, adding the troops were “making efforts to drive the occupiers back into Russian territory”.
Zelenskyy said that over the week, “Russia has launched approximately 1,300 attack drones, nearly 1,200 guided aerial bombs, and nine missiles of various types” against Ukraine.
Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022 after eight years of fighting in the country’s east.
A charming city with ancient walls and fairytale architecture is known for being the sunniest capital in Europe, and temperatures can reach up to 24C in December
Amy Jones Senior Travel Journalist and Joe Rossiter
03:30, 21 Dec 2025
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Nicosia, Cyprus, is the sunniest European city(Image: Getty Images)
With the UK in the depths of winter, many of us our turning our attention to that well-needed dose of vitamin D, and where better than a European destination that offers more than 3,300 hours of sunshine every year. And with flights from as little as £52 in December, it could be the sun-soaked break you’re after.
The capital of Nicosia in Cyprus is stunning, pedestrian-friendly and, as expected, bathed in sunshine, with all key tourist sites within comfortable walking distance of one another. Ledra Street serves as the primary shopping area, and adjacent to this street stands Shacolas Tower, where visitors can ascend to discover a compact museum dedicated to the city’s history while enjoying panoramic city vistas.
The city also boasts ancient walls and gates that delineate the historic quarters, creating a perfectly circular fortification. Constructed by the Venetians during the 1500s, these walls remain remarkably well-preserved, while the former moat encircling them has been transformed into a running track, gardens, and a sculpture park.
If that’s not enough to entice you to the city, then it’s worth noting that it boasts an impressive 3,388 hours of sunlight every year, making it the sunniest European city, according to travel booking site Omio. Nicosia enjoys a whopping 358 more hours of sunshine each year than its closest competitor, Valletta in Malta.
The top five were also rounded off by Lisbon in Portugal with 2,838 hours, Athens in Greece with 2,773 hours, and Madrid in Spain with 2,712 hours of annual sunshine. The ranking, compiled by Omio using data from Weather and Climate, unsurprisingly does not feature London in the top 20, with the British capital averaging 1,675 hours of sunshine annually.
Interestingly, Nicosia is a tale of two cities. It serves as the capital of the Republic of Cyprus, an internationally recognised EU member, and also of Northern Cyprus, a state acknowledged only by Turkey. This division stems from a Turkish invasion in 1974, triggered by a Greek Cypriot nationalist coup.
Greek Cypriots sought unification with Greece after gaining independence from Britain in 1960, but Turkey established Northern Cyprus as a separate state for Turkish Cypriots in 1983, sparking widespread international criticism. Yet, the capital has become a popular destination for travellers, with many noting its outstanding beauty.
One holidaymaker shared on Expedia: “A busy bustling town with some great designer shops and quaint touristy souvenir shops too.” Another shared: “A unique divided city, with a Green Wall separating the south (Greek) from the north (Turkish). Easy to cross and a striking contrast. Lots of history to explore on both sides. City feels safe and welcoming, and small enough to be walkable.”
Crossing the Green Line that divides the Republic of Cyprus and Northern Cyprus, where the city is located, is typically straightforward unless you’ve entered Cyprus via Turkey. In such instances, there’s a chance you might be denied passage.
To visit Nicosia, you’ll need to fly into Ercan International Airport, which is just a short drive away from the capital. Flights on Skyscanner start from £52 for travel in December, making it an ideal winter break.
Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com
New research analysed nearly 500,000 ratings across more than 17,000 cities globally, with Italy claiming all three top positions.
Chloe Dobinson Digital Production Editor and Vita Molyneux Travel reporter
11:39, 19 Dec 2025
This city won the top spot(Image: FilippoBacci via Getty Images)
When it comes to culinary delights, people often dream of indulging in pasta in Italy, savouring sushi in Japan or relishing tacos in Mexico. Indeed, for many holidaymakers, their trips seem to revolve around the local cuisine.
Now, a study by TasteAtlas has revealed the top destinations for foodies worldwide. The team analysed nearly half a million ratings from 17,073 cities listed on its database.
Interestingly, many of the top-rated locations are conveniently located not too far from the UK, with the majority of the top 10 situated in Europe.
Naples clinched the coveted top spot, thanks to its status as the birthplace of pizza, lasagna and macaroni. However, this picturesque city wasn’t the only Italian destination to make the cut, reports the Express.
Milan bagged second place, owing to its signature dishes such as risotto and panettone. And let’s not forget that Milan is also the home of Campari, perfect for those looking to wash down their meals with a refreshing tipple.
Italy dominated the top three, with Bologna securing third place. The city is renowned for its spaghetti bolognese, ragu and tortellini.
Despite the heavy Italian presence, other popular cities like Paris, Vienna and Mumbai also made it into the top 10.
However, the UK didn’t manage to secure a spot in the top 30, alongside other notable absences including Hong Kong, Barcelona, Ho Chi Minh, Bangkok, and Amsterdam.
Thousands protest as EU leaders clash over trade pact farmers fear will flood Europe with cheaper South American goods.
Published On 18 Dec 202518 Dec 2025
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Hundreds of tractors have clogged the streets of Brussels as farmers converged on the Belgian capital to protest against the contentious trade agreement between the European Union and South American nations they say will destroy their livelihoods.
The demonstrations erupted on Thursday as EU leaders gathered for a summit where the fate of the Mercosur deal hung in the balance. More than 150 tractors blocked central Brussels, with an estimated 10,000 protesters expected in the European quarter, according to farm lobby Copa-Cogeca.
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It made for a twin-tracked day of febrile tension outside and inside at the EU summit as leaders were perhaps more focused on a vote to determine whether they are able to use nearly $200bn in frozen Russian assets to support Ukraine over the next two years.
Outside the gilded halls on the streets, farmers hurled potatoes and eggs at police, set off fireworks and firecrackers, and brought traffic to a standstill.
Authorities responded with tear gas and water cannon, setting up roadblocks and closing tunnels around the city. One tractor displayed a sign reading: “Why import sugar from the other side of the world when we produce the best right here?”
“We’re here to say no to Mercosur,” Belgian dairy farmer Maxime Mabille said, accusing European Commission chief Ursula von der Leyen of trying to “force the deal through” like “Europe has become a dictatorship”.
A protester throws an object, as farmers protest against the EU-Mercosur free-trade deal in Brussels, Belgium [Yves Herman/Reuters]
Protesters fear an influx of cheaper agricultural products from Brazil and neighbouring countries would undercut European producers. Their concerns centre on beef, sugar, rice, honey and soya beans from South American competitors facing less stringent regulations, particularly on pesticides banned in the EU.
“We’ve been protesting since 2024 in France, in Belgium and elsewhere,” said Florian Poncelet of Belgian farm union FJA. “We’d like to be finally listened to.”
France and Italy now lead opposition to the deal, with President Emmanuel Macron declaring that “we are not ready” and the agreement “cannot be signed” in its current form.
France has coordinated with Poland, Belgium, Austria and Ireland to force a postponement, giving critics sufficient votes within the European Council to potentially block the pact.
However, Germany and Spain are pushing hard for approval. German Chancellor Friedrich Merz warned that decisions “must be made now” if the EU wants to “remain credible in global trade policy”, while Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez argued the deal would give Europe “geo-economic and geopolitical weight” against adversaries.
The agreement, 25 years in the making, would create the world’s largest free-trade area covering 780 million people and a quarter of global gross domestic product (GDP).
Supporters say it offers a counterweight to China and would boost European exports of vehicles, machinery and wines amid rising US tariffs.
Despite provisional safeguards negotiated on Wednesday to cap sensitive imports, opposition has intensified. Von der Leyen remains determined to travel to Brazil this weekend to sign the deal, but needs backing from at least two-thirds of EU nations.
Brazil’s President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva issued an ultimatum on Wednesday, warning that Saturday represents a “now or never” moment, adding that “Brazil won’t make any more agreements while I’m president” if the deal fails.
JUST a few months after Ryanair stopped flying to a much-loved city in France, it has announced that it will in fact return next summer.
It was one of the destinations axed in Ryanair’s ongoing seat-cutting drive, due to increasing air tax in certain countries.
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Ryanair will return to this pretty French city just months after stopping its winter routeCredit: AlamyThe budget airline has been battling rising air tax in particular countriesCredit: Alamy
Bergerac is a commune in the Dordogne region in the southwest of France, known for its old town and riverside cafe and outdoor markets.
While it’s a popular winter destination, Bergerac is a great place to go in summer as it gets highs of 30C in July and August.
Other popular summer activities include wine tasting at local vineyards and visiting nearby châteaus.
Popular sites in the city include the Statue of Cyrano de Bergerac in a small square which is surrounded by restaurants.
Other visitors explore Place de la Myrpe a neighbourhood which one person described as ‘Bergerac’s ancient heart’ with old brick and timber-lined buildings.
And the Eglise Notre-Dame is what visitors call ‘a beautiful church’ in the city centre.
Bergerac Airport feared it might close after Ryanair’s initial announcementCredit: AlamyBergerac has plenty of al fresco dining options during the summertimeCredit: Alamy
Following the announcement that Ryanair would be pulling out of Bergerac back in July of this year, the airport in Bergerac announced that it may be forced to close.
The airline added: “In response to this government tax, Ryanair will cease operations to Bergerac, Brive, and Strasbourg, and reduce capacity at several other French airports.”
Rising airport tariffs were cited for the cancellations, with Michael O’Leary claiming he would “fly elsewhere […] if the costs in regional Spain are too high”.
He added: “We are better off flying at the same cost to places such as Palma [on the island of Majorca] than flying to Jerez.”
French airports Bergerac, Brive, and Strasbourg have also lost their Ryanair flights while airports in Germany including Dortmund, Dresden and Leipzig will not open for winter.
German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier (R) welcomes Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky (L) at Bellevue Palace in Berlin on Monday ahead of three way talks between European, American and Ukrainian delegations on efforts to hammer out a peace deal that is acceptable to all sides. Photo by Hannibal Hanschke/EPA
Dec. 15 (UPI) — British Prime Minister Keir Starmer and German Chancellor Friedrich Merz were set to meet with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky and U.S. officials in Berlin on Monday in an effort to reach a consensus on what any peace deal with Russia should look like.
The European leaders, along with French President Emmanuel Macron, who has yet to confirm his attendance, will seek to negotiate an alternative to the U.S.-Russia plan currently on the table with a stronger deal for Ukraine with better protections for its security.
The talks will also attempt to keep afloat an EU-brokered agreement to loan Ukraine some of the $246.7 billion of Russia’s assets frozen in European banks and other institutions to help it defend itself and take “forward peace talks from a position of strength,” amid mounting opposition to the plan.
The meeting follows five hours of talks on Sunday between Zelensky and U.S. Special Envoy Steve Witkoff and President Donald Trump‘s son-in-law, Jared Kushner, at the Federal Chancellery that Witkoff said were productive and would resume on Monday.
“Representatives held in-depth discussions regarding the 20-point plan for peace, economic agendas, and more. A lot of progress was made, and they will meet again tomorrow morning,” Witkoff posted on X on Sunday evening.
Zelensky was reported to have dropped demands for NATO membership, if it was what was required to end the war, in exchange for a bilateral defense agreement with the United States similar to an Article 5-like guarantee, along with other guarantees from Ukraine’s European partners.
Article 5 is a cast-iron guarantee, a collective defense principle enshrined in NATO’s constitution under which an armed attack on one member is considered an attack on all members and triggers an obligation for each member to come to its defense.
Following the initial discussions on Monday, Merz’s spokesman confirmed the group would be widened to include “numerous European heads of state and government, as well as the leaders of the EU and NATO.”
The diplomatic focus will shift to Brussels on Thursday when the leaders of all 27 EU nations converge on the Belgian capital for a meeting of the European Council with Ukraine and European security topping the agenda.
Council President Antonio Costa said the summit would address how best to continue defending Europe’s interests and how to “strengthen Ukraine’s negotiating position,” a key element of which necessitated “increased pressure on Russia.”
Costa said that having already committed to providing for Ukraine’s urgent financial needs for 2026-2027, including funding for its military and defense, it was now time to decide how to implement it and that leaders must keep talking on Thursday until an agreement was reached.
Earlier this month, European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen unveiled two options — both controversial — to provide Ukraine with $105.8 billion of the $158.6 it is estimated it will need in the two years through 2027 to keep the country running and being able to continue fighting Russia.
The so-called “reparations loan” option involving using frozen Russian assets only requires a two-thirds majority of EU states to vote for it. The second option under which the EU would use its budget to go borrow on the international capital markets is more problematic because it could be blocked by a single state.
Hungary and Slovakia have indicated they are opposed to either route, while Belgium, home to Euroclear, the clearing house where the majority of Russia’s frozen assets are held, has expressed strong worries that it could be taken to court by Russia were the frozen assets tapped or that it may scare off foreign investors.
Russia has protested that appropriating its assets amounts to theft but the EU says that is not the case because there was nothing to preclude Russia from reclaiming the funds in future — after it has paid war reparations to Ukraine.
Ukraine is set to run out of money early in the New Year.
South Africans honor Nelson Mandela
Large crowds gather outside Nelson Mandela’s former home in the Johannesburg suburb of Houghton to pay their respects on December 7, 2013. Mandela, former South African president and a global icon of the anti-apartheid movement, died on December 5 at age 95 after complications from a recurring lung infection. Photo by Charlie Shoemaker/UPI | License Photo
A train ride to Titanic’s last stop in County Cork, Ireland
On a midsummer trip to Ireland, I saw dolphins in the Irish Sea, sunset by the Liffey, and misty views of the Galtee Mountains. The half-hour train journey to Cobh (“cove”), through Cork’s island-studded harbour, was especially lovely. As the railway crossed Lough Mahon, home to thousands of seabirds, there was water on both sides of the train. I watched oystercatchers, egrets, godwits and common terns, which nest on floating pontoons. Curlews foraged in the mudflats, and an old Martello tower stood on a wooded promontory.
Spanning one of the world’s largest natural harbours, Cork’s bridge-linked archipelago includes 20-sq-mile Great Island at the seaward end. Here you’ll find Cobh, with its colourful terrace houses, prom-side palm trees and smell of toasting soda bread. The town was the Titanic’s last port of call before its doomed voyage. Today’s Cork is a sustainable-transport trailblazer: cycle greenways run through huge reedbeds across Ballyvergan marsh and eight new railway stations are coming soon. Phoebe Taplin
Affordable skiing in Bulgaria
Borovets was Bulgaria’s first ski resort. Photograph: Roy Conchie/Alamy
“I don’t smile, I’m Bulgarian,” Yuri my ski instructor told me, “but I can make you a better skier.” By day three I had earned a “not too bad”, and my grin stretched from ear to ear.
There’s plenty to smile about in Borovets, droll instructors aside: the price for a start. A half-term ski break here is far kinder on the wallet than heading to the Alps. Borovets, in the Rila mountains, was Bulgaria’s first ski resort and has 58km of well-maintained slopes bordered by forests. To keep our energy up, we ate hot flaky banitsa (stuffed pastries), sausages cooked over an open fire, and hearty bean stews.
My teenage sons and I stayed at the no-frills Soviet-style Samokov Hotel, where I loved using the 25m pool after a day on the slopes, and they loved pushing the limits of the hearty buffet evening meals. Ailsa Sheldon
A lakes escape in Switzerland
Lake Neuchâtel. Photograph: Imagebroker/Alamy
For a landlocked country, Switzerland is surprisingly obsessed with messing about in boats. Paddle steamers and scenic ferries are common currency on lakes Constance, Léman and Lucerne, but sailing across the unfathomably blue surfaces of lakes Biel, Neuchâtel and Murten (in the Three Lakes region, about 90 minutes by train from Geneva) this summer was a first for me. The temperatures, with the sun splitting the waters, felt Mediterranean. The late evening swims and paddleboarding did the trick too.
I hopped between Neuchâtel and Le Landeron on Lake Biel, slipping through time-warp villages on the slopes of the Jura mountains. I swam in the Zihl Canal with only kingfishers and herons for company. I drank too many glasses of chasselas white wine in Ligerz, where a wonderfully pretty church sits amid the grapevines. I discovered forgotten St Peter’s Island, home to a 12th-century monastery hotel and where Enlightenment philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau once turned his back on the world. As I explored, I thought I’d like to do the same. Mike MacEacheran
Watching a ‘skydance’ over Lancashire’s wetlands, UK
Martin Mere Nature Reserve. Photograph: Media World Images/Alamy
Martin Mere on the west Lancashire plain, once the largest lake in England, was drained by arable-avaricious lords. Mercifully, they didn’t empty it completely and the wetlands, managed by the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust, is now a precious habitat for waders and reed-loving birds. In autumn, more than 45,000 pink-footed geese roost here.
Like many who grew up in the north-west, I bypassed Martin Mere every summer, bound for Southport. Leisure time meant beach, fairs and shopping. Perhaps the area’s industrial heritage encouraged the notion that land was for turning into houses, roads and workplaces. It’s only since returning to live in the county five years ago that I have re-educated myself about its natural assets.
Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to see ring ouzels, peregrines, a merlin and, greatest prize of all, hen harriers – famed for their “skydancing” and victimisation by grouse rearers – in the Forest of Bowland national landscape.
Season by season, Lancashire becomes something other than a place framed by the past. Growing up, I wondered at all the contrails; I’ll grow old gazing at the kinder, quieter patterns of nature’s aviators. Chris Moss
A country house in the middle of Milan
Villa Necchi Campiglio. Photograph: Stefanos Kyriazis/Alamy
Summers in Milan are, inevitably, very often hot, humid affairs. Like many Italian cities, its residents are likely to head for the sea and countryside as the temperatures rise. However, the Necchi Campiglios, a wealthy family who made their fortune manufacturing sewing machines, chose to build their perfect country house in the middle of the city.
Designed in the 1930s by Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio still stands like a mirage in Italy’s second largest city, set in lush gardens with a swimming pool – a perfect little oasis to escape the heat yet on a very ordinary street. There’s much to admire inside, with chic furniture and fittings, wood panelling and marble floors, and an impressive art collection. It’s hard to imagine a nicer place to cool off as the heat of the city intensifies than the veranda overlooking the garden. Max Benato
Walking in Kosovo’s mountains
The Accursed Mountains. Photograph: Gryf/Alamy
History books provide crucial context for hiking in Kosovo, but don’t prepare you for the beauty of the mountains. I spent a week on the recently remapped Via Dinarica Kosovo in the summer. We hiked past edelweiss flowers on the border ridge with Montenegro; craggy and sheer on one side and vibrant green on the other, sloping down to pink and yellow wildflower meadows.
Choughs flew around high rocky outcrops, while brightly coloured bee-eaters perched on branches lower down. Wildlife lost to much of Europe still thrives here (bears, wolves, lynx) in a mosaic of oak and beech trees, blueberries and shrubs, deep valleys and high plateaux. Mountain lakes make for dreamy swim spots beneath the high peaks near Albania.
We stayed in secluded huts with mountain backdrops, where börek (savoury pastries) were devoured in the evenings and washed down with rakia – a homemade fruity spirit varying wildly in quality and strength. Stuart Kenny
A peaceful village in Provence
South Park Lodges in Cotignac.
Wiggling across France in a car groaning with kids and camping gear has become a summer tradition. This year, on our way to the Gorges du Verdon, we detoured via Cotignac and landed upon the very special South Park Lodges. Owners Stan and Wendy Kluba have spent five years restoring three wild hectares just outside the village, which are now home to two bell tents on hillside terraces among the pines (sleeps four, from £160 a night).
Everything has been so thoughtfully put together: a handbuilt kitchen under the shade of a canvas sail, an outdoor shower soundtracked by cicadas. Days were slow: walking to buy pastries at Lou Gourmandises, long lunches at Le Bistrot de Lou Calen, climbing the steep steps to explore old cave houses in the limestone cliffs above the village. But mostly the kids loved the pool and the Shetland ponies (Scotchy and Whisky), and I fell for the deep sense of peace. Fiona Kerr
Going off the beaten track in Albania
A swimming spot in Albania. Photograph: Holly Tuppen
The first stop on a family hiking holiday in Albania this summer made a lasting impression and proved that stepping off the beaten track often brings the greatest rewards. We spent two nights in Bujtina Lëpushë, a guesthouse surrounded by orchards, beehives and small farms that peter out towards the Accursed Mountains – a towering amphitheatre. Arriving at dusk, the kids (10 and 12) played with kittens on our cabin’s porch while we chatted to the owner about life in Lëpushë. Migration abroad or to cities is a problem (the local school has only one pupil), and tourism is a lifeline for anyone left behind.
Luckily, Lëpushë has a lot going for it. On the first day, we jumped off rocks into a brilliant-blue swimming spot and gorged on homemade cheese and bread at a shepherd’s stan (summer encampment). On the second, we hiked to the top of Maja e Nagvacit (2,412m) on near-deserted trails, scoffing wild blueberries along the way. Despite all this, Lëpushë receives a fraction of the visitors that nearby Theth and Vusanje welcome, because it isn’t on the popular Peaks of the Balkans hiking route. Holly Tuppen
A luckydiscovery on Spain’s Costa Tropical
Calahonda in Andalucía. Photograph: Rhiannon Batten
A long smile of a beach braced with blocky hotels at the edge of a snowdrift of white plastic-covered greenhouses – we had no expectations of Calahonda, in Andalucía. We stopped in this former fishing village near Motril, not to be confused with the much bigger Sitio de Calahonda further west, for no other reason than it seemed the least built-up place to break a journey along Spain’s Costa Tropical.
Finding a room at the Hotel Embarcadero, we photographed the shoal of tiny boats bobbing beneath the town’s headland, swam in leagues of deep, Kool-Aid-blue water, ate fat boquerones (fried anchovies) at a simple chiringuito (beach bar), and watched elderly Spanish couples stroll languidly to dinners that were just starting as we went to bed. Back on the road the next morning, our swimsuits drying on the back seat, we agreed that sometimes the best travel plan is to have none. Rhiannon Batten
Untouched islands in Finland
Lake Saimaa. Photograph: ShinyHappy74/Getty Images
The most spectacular sunset I’ve seen this year? Whizzing back across the iridescent waters of Finland’s Lake Saimaa on a chilly afternoon in late September, as the liquefying sun and white feathers of wispy cloud interrupted vivid blue skies.
We’d gone out from our base, the Järvisydän resort, to see the most endangered seal in the world – just 530 ringed seals are estimated to live in the lake. They were shy on the afternoon we were out, their basking rocks empty, but it couldn’t have mattered less; we stopped at one island to pick chanterelle mushrooms and blueberries, and at another to follow a hiking path up to a viewpoint that looked out over dozens of untouched islets, thick with pine forest and fringed with silver-grey rocks. In winter, when the lake freezes, there are 38 miles of ice-skating trails. I can’t wait to go back. Annabelle Thorpe
A night in Italy’s smallest town
Atrani on the Amalfi Coast. Photograph: Veronika Pfeiffer/Alamy
We took each bend carefully as we descended Monte Aureo. On the final turn, Atrani appeared through a tunnel in the rock, its bridge lit up against an October night sky and its houses cascading down the cliffs towards the Tyrrhenian Sea. Roberto, our driver, said we were entering the smallest town in Italy – and the most beautiful.
The entrance to our hotel lay hidden beneath the bridge, a narrow opening leading to a maze of whitewashed steps twisting between old walls. We awoke to the sound of bells from Santa Maria Maddalena and stepped on to the balcony, where tiled roofs tapered up the cliffside and, below, the sea moved softly against the beach. A cock crowed and a single car crossed the bridge.
After breakfast, we took another tunnel, this one longer. On the far side was Amalfi, its port lively and bright, as if we had slipped through a portal and returned to another age entirely. Vic O’Sullivan
Tasty fish in Tynemouth, UK
Seafood from Riley’s Fish Shack.
A handful of surfers rode the waves of the North Sea beneath a brilliant blue sky. But instead of swimsuits we were wrapped in wool jackets on this brisk January day.
Three generations of my family had come to the one-of-a-kind Riley’s Fish Shack set beneath Tynemouth’s green cliffs and the ruins of a priory and castle. We were lured by the shipping container’s chimney – a lighthouse-like beacon of smoke. Brave diners sat on the patio and on deck chairs in the sand, bundled up in blankets. We had reserved a wooden table in the cosy interior, warmed by the wood-fired grill.
I had expected fish and chips. Instead, we devoured enormous fish empanadas loaded with salsa verde; squid ragu topped with parsley mayo; roast turbot chop bathed in ancho-chilli butter, with caperberry and cucumber salad; and irresistible fresh sourdough – all sustainably served in wooden boxes with disposable wooden cutlery.
I dream of returning despite living about 1,000 miles away in Marseille. Thankfully, my cousin lives in nearby Newcastle, so I have an excuse to return. Alexis Steinman
An unsung Northern Irish city
Newry town hall straddles a river. Photograph: Stephen Barnes/Alamy
My latest book, Sh*tty Breaks, champions unfashionable cities and makes the case that anywhere can be enjoyable if given half the chance. The Northern Irish city of Newry is known for its shopping, being in the thick of the Troubles and former goalkeeper Pat Jennings. It’s not known for the quality of its museum, the friendliness of its people, or the staggering beauty of its countryside – but it should be.
I’m perpetually on the hunt for the best bistro in Paris and, on a spring trip this year, I think I found it. Following a cobbled backstreet en route to the inimitable Shakespeare and Company bookshop, I came upon the blue awning of a cosy restaurant named Bistro des Livres. It resembled a sunlit wine cellar, with pale stone walls, black marble-topped tables and books everywhere: patterned, leatherbound books with yellow pages piled in the window.
The menu featured vin à la ficelle – wine “by the string”, measured and charged by what you drink – along with a concise and no-nonsense list of five mains, plus a tomahawk steak, aubrac rib and veal chop for the carnivorous. Grilled bone marrow was sizzling on arrival, rock salt sparkling on its surface like diamond dust. My confit de canard was a crisp leg which fell apart into dark gleaming chunks, steam piping off the bone. But it was the chocolate pudding that brought me back for my second and third visits. Arriving at my side – lugging a casserole dish of whipped dark mousse – the waiter ladled a mountain in to my bowl; rich, smooth, and enough for four diners. When the bill came, the waiter gave my well-consumed Côtes du Rhône a cursory glance and barely charged me €10 for drinks. The meal itself came to €35. Oddly, it was quiet, so I still like to think I’ve stumbled upon a spot of magic on the Left Bank. Monisha Rajesh
A memorable meal off Mull
The Boathouse restaurant on Ulva off Mull. Photograph: Matt Limb/Alamy
To summon the ferry for Ulva – a small, community-owned island off Mull – you flick the wooden board above the slipway from white to red and Rhuri, the boatman, will chug across the narrow strait to fetch you. Unless it’s a Saturday, his day off. It was a sunny Sunday in summer when I headed over for lunch at the Boathouse, the waterfront restaurant everyone was talking about after its takeover by Banjo Beale of Designing the Hebrides, his husband and cheesemaker Ro, and farmer, baker and charcuterie-maker Sam this year.
I was early, so followed one of the island’s impossibly pretty walking trails, skirting round the coast, through ancient woodland, past a cluster of old stone barns and the Thomas Telford-designed church, before circling back for a pile of langoustines, apple-sour salad and warm brioche at a picnic table beside the sea, dogs splashing in the shallows, children skimming stones, families chatting on the rocks – wonderfully old-school and unspoilt. Lucy Gillmore
Treasure hunting in Prague’s flea market
A waiter, recalling his grandmother’s dumplings and her kitchen’s “terrible” decor, alerted me to the existence of the u Elektry flea market. “She had the kind of stuff everyone throws out at u Elektry; nobody wants reminders of being poor under communism,” he said with a shrug.
It’s located in Prague 9, and getting there requires a lengthy-ish tram ride. The market is open 6am-2pm every Saturday and Sunday, and when I arrived mid-morning, people were already leaving, laden with items I was certain I wanted. A fee of 30 koruna (about £1) is payable at the entrance, where there are also food stalls and – because you never know – an ATM.
Hundreds of vendors had their wares – ceramics, linens, brass and mirrors, signed and framed oil paintings, nude photographs, you name it – set out over a seemingly interminable area. I had to squat, sift and search, but my heart and hands were full by the end – and low prices and cheerfully haggling locals meant my wallet wasn’t much depleted, either. Sarah Rodrigues
Dramatic scenery and saunas on the Fife coastal path, Scotland
One of the saunas on the Fife coastal path. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy
It’s always good to meet an old friend, even better when unexpected. There I was, strolling through the Scottish coastal village of Lower Largo, when I spotted Robinson Crusoe. I hadn’t thought about him for a while, but there he was, or at least his real-life inspiration, Alexander Selkirk. A statue of the man stands on the site of the cottage where he was born in 1676.
The joy of the Fife coastal path is like that. Unexpected pleasures abound amid picturesque villages, dramatic scenery and beaches. The 117-mile route starts in Kincardine with a few miles of post-industrial landscape that soon gives way to a more bucolic coast. Villages such as Anstruther, Crail and St Monans hold plenty of historical interest, fine old harbours, plus a few great food outlets (try the Bowhouse and the Cocoa Tree). The Elie chain walk at Kincraig Point is a particularly good section if you enjoy scrambling.
North of Cellardyke, watch for Tide Line, an art installation by Julie Brook. Apart from Crusoe, however, the real discovery was the saunas that are being installed along Fife’s many beaches. Kevin Rushby
An art trail in a picture-perfect town in Puglia, Italy
Monopolio in Puglia. Photograph: AGF/Alamy
It’s less than half an hour by train along the Adriatic coast from Bari to Monopoli, a historic town with a pretty harbour, winding alleys, a 16th-century castle and an impressive cathedral. While nearby Polignano a Mare – Insta-famous for its dramatic cliffs – felt busy, Monopoli had a laid-back vibe and a string of uncrowded beaches where local families were picnicking.
It’s worth a visit any time of year, but mine coincided with the PhEST international festival of photography and art, which uses the town and its buildings as a backdrop. Every year it runs for four months, from August to November, with a packed programme of photography, screenings, music, guided tours and talks.
We followed an artwork trail around town, some outdoors, some inside churches and the castle. We loved the Martin Parr works – some seen by looking through telescopes out to sea – and Gregg Segal’s thought-provoking images highlighting over-consumption, with people photographed lying in the rubbish they generated in a single week. Jane Dunford
Finally finding paradise – in Pembrokeshire
The cathedral in Saint Davids. Photograph: Sonja Ooms/Getty Images/iStockphoto
Growing up, we always went south for holidays – to Dorset, or Brittany, or as far as my dad could put up with driving three children in summer without aircon. Wales never even made the shortlist. When I finally discovered Pembrokeshire in June this year, and saw how incredibly beautiful it was, I felt irrationally cross that its charms had been kept from me for so long. “Oh yes,” my parents said airily when I complained, “St Davids is lovely, isn’t it? Great cathedral.”
Not only was the cathedral indeed stunning, with an excellent, dog-friendly cafe to boot, but the countryside around it was even better, and the coastline … well, the coastline took my breath away, literally, when I tried to run it one morning after overindulging in fish, chips and gelato. Rocky cliffs, green water, wide sandy beaches and little whitewashed pubs where the locals have their own tables – why had no one told me paradise lies at the end of the A40? Felicity Cloake
Croatia without the crowds
The Greeting to the Sun installation. Photograph: Imago/Alamy
With Dubrovnik hitting the headlines for all the wrong reasons this year, I was wary of contributing to overtourism. But the lure of the Med on a budget took me on a four-day break with my four-year-old to Zadar.
What I discovered was a Croatia without the crowds, a pretty walled city and lots of kid-friendly (and free) things to do. Without spending a bean, we explored the Old Town – wandering along the city walls, enjoying the Sea Organ – an experimental musical instrument on the front that plays notes as the waves move in and out of its underwater pipes – and dancing at sunset on the Greeting to the Sun installation, a 22-metre wide circle of solar panels that harness energy during the daytime, then, when night falls, create an environmentally friendly light show that keeps kids of all ages entertained.
For just a few euros, we took a ferry over to Ugljan Island, where we swam in the sea at Preko and climbed to the summit of the fort, parts of which date back to the sixth century, for views over to Italy. Then, before we left, we ventured to Vrana Lake nature park to kayak amid some of the 260 species of birds that call the place home. A perfect break for a family. Phoebe Smith
Seafood under the pines, France
Cooking éclade de moules. Photograph: Isabel Choat
The village of Mornac-sur-Seudre in the Charente-Maritime is famous for the oysters that are cultivated in the surrounding marshes, but the dish that caught our attention was éclade de moules – mussels cooked under pine needles. We ordered ours at Le Parc des Graves, where we sat on a terrace overlooking the water. The éclade is prepared on the road outside – at a safe distance from diners. First, the mussels are arranged on a wooden platter in concentric circles, then they are covered in dry pine needles which are set on fire. The result is an ashy platter of shells that looks more like a sculpture than something edible. But the mussels are surprisingly tasty – smoky and sweet. Virtually every table was tucking into them during our visit – including small children, their faces streaked with ash. We ordered oysters too, and plates of crevettes and langoustines – but the éclade stole the show. Once we’d had our fill, we wandered up Rue du Port, past pretty blue-and-white houses, to Saint-Pierre church, known for its giant shell font, a reminder that on this coastline, shellfish are treated with near religious reverence. Isabel Choat
Innocent fun on a Swedish island
A fishing hut on South Koster island. Photograph: Mauro Toccaceli/Alamy
As the ferry docked at South Koster, an island off Sweden’s south-west coast about 100 miles north of Gothenburg, it seemed I’d arrived inside a Famous Five novel. Life for the next few days was all carefree cycling down quiet lanes (cars are prohibited), splashing about in the clearest seas (where cold-water coral thrives), kayaking between the smooth granite skerries of Kosterhavet national park, and hauling up on empty beaches to picnic on (lashings of) coffee and hunks of banana bread.
The only thing missing was a Blyton-esque mystery to solve – though something was flummoxing me: where were all the people? Coastal Sweden has a curious tourism season. For five weeks in July and early August the place is heaving. Outside of that? Bliss. It was early September: the sky was blue, the berries bright, the water brisk but deliciously swimmable. With the summer crowds gone, it was like discovering my very own Treasure Island. Sarah Baxter
Step back in time in a boutique hotel in Latvia
Kukšu Manor hotel
I discovered a beautiful 10-bedroom boutique hotel while travelling in the tranquil, lushly green region of Kurzeme in Latvia. Restored by German chef and hotelier Daniel Jahn, Kukšu Manor has spectacular interiors and a wonderful lakeside location – cranes fly overhead, storks perch on chimney-top nests, nightingales warble. But it isn’t on any booking sites so it remains something of a secret.
Every door, wall and architrave is delicately painted with 18th-century frescoes, stencils and murals. Every piece of cornicing is intricately carved. Beneath lavishly painted ceilings (my favourite was ultramarine blue scattered with golden flowers), each room is an extravagant curation of antique finery. But there’s nothing formal here: Jahn and his two labradors greet visitors like old friends.
This is a place where you can step back in time and imagine yourself as a Baltic baron. And the breakfasts are to die for: garden berries, homemade jams, marinated vegetables, forest mushrooms, local fish and meat, freshly baked bread and pancakes. All for the price of a very average British B&B. Annabel Abbs
Wales’s answer to Land’s End
Andy Pietrasik on the Llŷn peninsula in Wales
The long slender finger of the Llŷn peninsula had been beckoning me for years, but I only made it to this area of outstanding natural beauty in north Wales this year. It was love at first sight.
It probably helped that my initial encounter was with the head-turning Tŷ Coch Inn, set in a stunning little cove near Nefyn. But over the course of a few days’ walking and camping along the Wales Coast Path, there were so many other beguiling moments: the sweeping curve of Whistling Sands beach; the pod of seals lolling in a secluded bay that mimicked the outline of Wales; the kestrel hovering above a promontory; the musical lilt of people speaking Welsh.
But perhaps the standout moment was arriving, after a long day’s ramble, in the picturesque fishing village of Aberdaron at the tip of the peninsula, and settling in for a couple of pints in the sunshine outside the Ship Hotel. This was followed by crab cakes, chips and mushy peas at the Sblash fish bar around the corner. Perfect. Andy Pietrasik
Meeting the resident cat in Norwich Cathedral
Budge the cathedral cat. Photograph: Bill Smith
I am fond of cats. I am keen on churches. Better yet are churches with resident cats. How delightful then, on a recent visit to Norwich Cathedral, to encounter Budge. He was seated on a pew, eyes as green as The New English Hymnal, a small creature in that great ancient space.
I hadn’t meant to visit, but found myself with an hour to spare. Long enough to stroll from the bright copper font to first world war heroine Edith Cavell’s grave. Time, too, for a circuit of the cloister, sun slanting through the tracery and making the flagstones gleam.
Budge, though, was the highlight, and I learned his story. As a young cat, he roamed the pubs, but has long since left that roguish life behind. “He’s found God,” I was told. “He’s found a place he feels at home.” His day begins with morning prayer and ends with evensong. He makes a wonderful place even more wonderful. He let me stroke his back then padded off up the nave. Peter Ross
But there’s so much more to love about a quick, easy train journey that promises the chance to enjoy some festive fun with continental flair and fabulous food.
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The Sun’s Lisa Minot and Kara Godfrey took to the Eurostar this month to check out Lille and Brussels – and their Christmas marketsCredit: Getty Images
Step aboard the Eurostar from London St Pancras and just one hour and 24 minutes later you could be in Lille – then 30 minutes farther and the delights of Brussels await.
With fares from £39 each way if booked in advance, it’s the perfect way to sprinkle some magic on your festive season.
So Lisa Minot and Kara Godfrey took to the Eurostar this month to check out the cities – and their Christmas markets.
Lisa in Lille
Lille’s Old Town and Place Rihour sparkle with 90 festive chalets, charming shops, and hearty French fare for a perfect quick Christmas getawayCredit: Supplied
WITH beautifully decorated stores in Lille’s Old Town, a fabulous Ferris Wheel in the Grand Place and a charming Christmas market on Place Rihour featuring 90 wooden chalets, Lille is a great place to hop over to for a quick festive break.
With a compact city centre and oodles of lovely independent shops, Lille also promises hearty French fare in its traditional ‘estaminet’ restaurants to keep you fuelled.
BEST SNACK
COME hungry to the Christmas Market as there are endless stalls offering hearty snacks.
From baguettes to paninis and oysters, caviar and salmon as well as waffles and crepes, there’s a huge amount of choice.
But for a French speciality, it has to be the aligot. A truly indulgent dish of ultra-creamy mashed potatoes mixed with garlic, butter, cream and gooey cheese, a generous portion costs just £8.70.
Or perhaps go for the traditional Savoie dish of tartiflette — slices of potato with onions, bacon and reblochon cheese.
BEST DRINK
YOU’LL find mulled wine everywhere. This is France, after all!
In the Christmas Market, a large cup costs seven euros but you’ll get two euros back when you return the eco-friendly cups, so a warming drink will set you back just £4.40.
At the traditional Lille estaminet restaurant, Au Vieux de la Vieille, your mulled wine comes with a shot of Amaretto on the side for a nutty alternative and costs £5.70.
BEST VIEW
ADMIRE the festive lights around the streets of Lille from high above on the Ferris Wheel, at the centre of the Grand Place.
Soaring 164ft into the air in the gondolas gives you a fabulous view of the city and beyond. Book ahead to avoid the queues.
Sunset is a perfect time to take in the views with the lights of the town and market a delight.
Prices start from £6.10 for adults and £4.40 for children. See lagrande rouedelille.com.
For those without a head for heights, you can also get a fantastic view from the balcony of the City Hall’s Belfry — getting there involves climbing up 109 steps.
BEST SHOPPING
Travel Editor Lisa Minot enjoys a festive drink in LilleCredit: Supplied
LILLE’S compact, cobbled old town is a delight for shopaholics. There are plenty of independent gift stores as well as lots of options for clothes and shoes.
To bring back a reminder of your stay, head to the legendary Meert — famed for being one of the oldest pastry shops in the world.
The ornate building is even more festive at Christmas and it’s the perfect place to pick up one of their signature waffles, from a recipe first invented in the 1840s.
You can also buy a huge range of cakes, chocolates and a variety of exotic tea blends. The tea room is a delight. Just be sure to book in advance.
BEST RESTAURANT
FOR a relaxed but sophisticated dinner with a fantastic view, head to Nu, close to the train station. This rooftop restaurant and bar is fabulously festively decorated at Christmas but it’s the food that is undoubtedly the star of the show.
As well as a selection of tapas-style dishes starting from £7.90, there’s a host of French classics.
We enjoyed a decadent lobster dish and a delicious seared tuna finished with a cafe gourmand — where your cup comes with a selection of their best desserts.
For truly authentic dishes from the North of France, head to Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vielle.
Booking is essential at this tiny, historic restaurant and locals flock here for carbonnade flamande, where chunks of beef are cooked in beer and spices.
Also amazing was the Welsh au maroilles — beer-soaked bread topped with ham and then drenched in melty maroilles cheese. Come hungry!
BEST HOTEL
HOTEL l’Arbre Voyageur is ideal for a weekend break — just an eight minute stroll from the train station.
The 4H hotel has 48 rooms with comfy beds and L’Occitane toiletries.
With two restaurants and its own patisserie, food is top notch. Rooms are from £143 per night, with breakfast. See hotelarbrevoyageur.com.
Kara in Brussels
Brussels’ Winter Wonders Christmas Market dazzles with 250+ stalls, a Ferris wheel, ice rink, curling, and a spectacular light show in the Grand-PlaceCredit: Alexander Spatari
WITH more than 250 stalls and chalets to browse, the Christmas Markets in Brussels are certainly an extravaganza.
Called the Winter Wonders, this also includes the popular Ferris Wheel, an ice skating and curling rink and the huge light show in the Grand Place.
The largest section is in Marché aux Poissons, where you will find 200 of the stalls. It runs until January 4, so you have more than enough time to fit in a quick weekend trip.
BEST SNACK
IF you spot a long queue, it’s most likely outside Fritland. Right next to the Christmas markets, the much-loved shop has been serving up huge portions of chips since 1978 (from £3).
There are many sauces to choose from, with the tomatoey Dallas tasting delightfully zingy.
If you need something sweet afterwards, the other busy spot is the stunning Maison Dandoy, where you’ll find some of the city’s best waffles.
Even with the rich Speculoos spread slathered on top, the waffles are so light they are easy to eat even on a full stomach.
BEST DRINK
Deputy Travel Editor Kara Godfrey gets into the Christmas spirit in BrusselsCredit: Supplied
YOU can’t go wrong with a mulled wine, or gluhwein, which can be found throughout the markets.
A glass will set you back around £4.30, although keep an extra 90p if you don’t have your own cup.
It is the right amount of sweetness and warmth to keep you cosy in the chilly winter weather.
Not a wine fan? Most of the stalls also sell hot chocolate.
BEST VIEW
FOR some of the best vistas across the city, you can’t beat the Ferris Wheel.
With tickets around £8.70, the ten-minute trip is stunning both during the day and with the twinkling lights at night.
But if you want a secret way to see the picturesque Grand Place light show without the crowds, keep an eye out for the Christmas Fairies door.
Walk through a fairy light tunnel, up a winding staircase and past Santa to grab your spot at the window overlooking the huge tree that lights up every hour.
A charming town in a popular holiday destination remains a snapshot of its medieval past and rich heritage but is smaller than a football pitch with a population of just over 50
The tiny town is contained within ancient medieval walls (Image: Getty Images)
Nestled in the hills in central Istria, northwest Croatia, the tiny village of Hum has stunning views of the surrounding countryside and forests.
Legend has it that friendly giants built the town from leftover stones from the construction of other nearby villages. It is surrounded by protective medieval walls and to this day nothing has been constructed outside of them, meaning it has kept its original character.
Visitors often marvel at the diminutive size of the town, which is considered the smallest in the world, as well as soak up its ancient architecture, rich cultural heritage and traditions, while indulging in the delicious local food and brandy made from regional produce.
Although local legend says it was giants who built the town, it was first mentioned in documents from 1102 when it was then called Cholm. Count Ulrich I built the castle inside the defensive walls and the settlements were located next to the castle in the fort. In 1552, a watch tower and bell were built next to the town’s loggia (town hall) to aid with defence.
There are just two pretty, cobbled streets and the entire town measures only around 100 metres by 30. In the 2021 census, there were only 52 recorded as living there, which is quite a rise from the last census 10 years previously, when the population was 30.
It is considered a town because it has its own council and large parish church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – which was built in 1802 on the site of the original church. Glagolitic wall hangings are housed there, which are some of the oldest known examples of Slavic alphabets and Croatian literary culture from the Middle Ages. The museum also displays some writings from the period and there are Romanesque frescoes in the Chapel of St Jerome for visitors to see.
History buffs will also love the Glagolitic Alley, which is a path from the nearby village of Roc that leads to Hum. It is lined with large stone monuments representing the ancient Glagolitic alphabet.
Old customs are still upheld by locals, such as the Day of Hum on June 11, when the election of the town mayor takes place. Every year, local judges from the parish carve their votes into a wooden stick at the historic town hall, or Municipal Loggia.
After exploring the picturesque streets, you can recharge by indulging in some of the local dishes. Traditional cuisine is usually hearty recipes made from local ingredients, such as Istrian vegetable stew. It is a simple but comforting soup made from barley, beans, potatoes and corn. Other popular dishes include pasta made with a rich beef sauce, ombolo, which is smoked pork loin, local sausage and sauerkraut. Krostule is a favourite local dessert made from fried dough. Truffles are also abundant in the hilly area, and the nearby town of Buzet is known as the City of Truffles.
Another specialty to try is the biska, which is a type of brandy made from fermented grapes, mistletoe, and four medicinal herbs. The recipe is 2,000 years old and was first made by the Celtic druids. Every October, the Istrian Rakija Festival takes place, when visitors can sample the drink from local producers.
One event of note is the Industrial Hemp Festival, which usually takes place in August when local products including oil, flour, tea, and seeds are available. There are also tasty foods and drinks made from hemp to sample, such as cheese, cookies, crackers, bread, bread burgers, and gin.
When it comes to travelling to Hum, the best way to get there is by private car hire as public transport in Istria isn’t the most reliable. Parking is 3 euros for the whole day, so you have plenty of time to explore without having to worry. There are also some local day tours that stop off in the town. It’s a great place to rest if you’re taking advantage of one of the hiking or cycling trails in Istria.
The closest airport is Rijeka (RJK), which Ryanair runs direct flights to from London Stansted. There are also indirect routes with carriers like Lufthansa from Heathrow.
One visitor on Tripadvisor said: “Do you need a good reason to visit what is claimed to be the ‘smallest town in the world’?! This place just charmed the socks off us. We loved it here. It’s tiny (of course) but has a unique charm, as you enter through the imposing gated entrance you feel like you are being transported back in time. It doesn’t feel like much has changed here for centuries. The road up is an interesting one and you just need to keep reminding yourself it’s going to be worth it as you drive up. The back route we took was a bit hair-raising in parts!”
A proposed tax increase in one European country has sparked concern
Some travellers in Europe could see their tickets go up in price(Image: Getty Images)
Ryanair has blasted moves that could see passengers pay higher bills under moves to increase airport departure taxes in one popular European destination by as much as double the current rate. In Belgium, the current federal tax stands at five euros per passenger and will be increased to 10 euros per passenger from 2027, which may see costs pushed onto passengers.
On top of this, Charleroi Airport in Belgium will reportedly make passengers spend three euros on their flights, according to proposals made by the Charleroi City Council. Some European publications have speculated this will push competition onto cheaper flights in neighbouring airports such as Paris-Beauvais and Lille Airport.
Ryanair are furious. In response to the proposed tax change, the airline has already confirmed this week that it will cut one million seats from its Brussels Winter 2026/27 schedule.
Ryanair said this move will also affect 20 routes on the schedule while arguing that the move is in direct opposition to other EU markets such as Slovakia, Sweden, Italy, and Hungary, where it claims such taxes are being cut down to drive up tourism. Because of this, Ryanair is calling on both the Belgian Prime Minister De Wever and the Mayor of Charleroi, Thomas Dermine, to reverse the proposed plans.
Ryanair’s Jason McGuinness said: “The De Wever Govt has bizarrely decided to further increase Belgium’s already sky-high aviation tax by another +100% from Jan 2027, on top of the +150% in July last. These repeated increases to this harmful aviation tax make Belgium completely uncompetitive compared to the many other EU countries, like Sweden, Hungary, Italy, and Slovakia, where Govts are abolishing aviation taxes to drive traffic, tourism, and jobs.
“As a result of this second tax hike in just 5 months, Ryanair has been forced to cut -22% of its Brussels traffic (-1m seats), -5 aircraft from our Charleroi base (loss of US$500m investment), and 20 routes (13 from Charleroi & 7 from Zaventem) for Winter 26/27. Should the Charleroi city council proceed with its ill-judged proposal to introduce further taxes on passengers departing from Charleroi next year, these cuts will deepen as Ryanair will be forced to reduce flights, routes and based aircraft at Charleroi from as early as April 2026 with thousands of local jobs at risk.
“If Prime Minister De Wever and his Govt really wanted to revive Belgium’s economy, they should abolish this harmful aviation tax, not double it. Despite so many other EU countries taking this step to support their economies, Belgium is going in the opposite direction, driving up access costs and pushing airlines and tourism elsewhere.
“We urge Prime Minister De Wever to scrap this damaging aviation tax before Belgian’s traffic, tourism, jobs, and the wider economy collapse any further. Furthermore, the Charleroi city council needs to abandon its lunatic plans to increase taxes driving job losses with the effect of lowering payroll, VAT and corporate tax receipts for the local economy.”
Belgium receives more than 18 million tourists each year. According to the latest data from the British government, around 1.3 million Brits travel to Belgium each year.
The proposed doubling is reportedly designed to help finance airport infrastructure and meet new environmental requirements, according to Air Journal.
Silver Lake City is the newest land for Europa-ParkCredit: Europa-parkThe cowboy themed land has diners tooCredit: Europa-parkThe new outdoor pool opened this yearCredit: Europa Park
Along with four themed diners, there is even a 630-bed Tipi Town accommodation village.
Next year will see the opening of the Riverside Western Lodge, with another 120 rooms.
It might not have the recognition of Disneyland, but with so much for all ages, Europa Park should top any theme park-lover’s list.
It’s not just me who was impressed, with one money-saving mum saying it was perfect even in half term holidays.
Content creator TheTravelMum said: “The theming is incredible, and the queue times are absolutely amazing.
“A lot of the smaller rides only have one minute queues.
“The park is fantastic for thrillseekers but at the same time it caters to the little ones,
“This place is fantastic value.”
Entry to the park costs £52 for adults and £44 for children (4–11) and seniors.
Despite being in Germany, the park is near the border of France and Switzerland, so the nearest airport for Brits is Basel.
Return fares in November start from £39pp.
The best way to get there is to fly to BaselCredit: EUROPA PARK