custard

Egg tarts are the only food obsession I held as a child that never waned in adulthood. They served as a primary motivator as a toddler. Clean my room? Finish my homework? Dan tat, the egg tarts found on dim sum carts, were always the answer.

I grew up eating Hong Kong-style egg tarts, with pale, glossy tops and nests of either crumbly, cookie-adjacent shortcrust or flaky pastry. They were usually cold, and the filling more like firm Jell-O than custard. Still, I was hooked. When someone brought a box of warm Macau tarts to a mahjong gathering at my grandmother’s house in the early ‘90s, I crushed out on the palm-sized pastry like it was the latest single from Boyz II Men.

While the Hong Kong tarts can be traced to custard tarts from the United Kingdom, Macau tarts are descendants of Portuguese pastéis de nata (until 1999, Macau was a Portuguese colony). Dozens of layers of crisp pastry cradle a crème brûlée-adjacent filling with a glistening top blistered in a scorching hot oven. The shell crackles and the custard trembles, for a confluence of textures that’s addictive and almost maddening. If I’m going to eat a tart, it might as well be three.

When Nata’s Pastries opened in a Sherman Oaks strip mall more than 20 years ago, it was the only Portuguese bakery in the city. Now, you can find Macau tarts and pastéis de nata at restaurants and bakeries all over Los Angeles. The following are seven places that should jump-start your own egg tart obsession.