crowds

Fiona Whitty soaked in the beauty of one of the UK’s most breathtaking spots and found a novel way to get away from the hubbub for a little while

With a speed limit on the lake of 10mph this was never going to be a fast and furious boat ride.

But our slow and steady jaunt across Windermere was the perfect escape from the frenetic Lake District crowds back on the shoreline. Sauntering along at just two miles an hour in our dainty self-drive electric motorboat, fish leaping from the water next to us and dragonflies buzzing overhead suited us down to the ground.

Being electric, the boat was quiet and environmentally friendly. And thanks to the 10mph speed limit we didn’t have to worry about dodging water skiers and jet bikes – just the large pleasure cruises which bizarrely seemed to approach out of nowhere.

Our most stressful decision was whether to roll back to soft top or wait until the grey clouds above had dispersed. We chose to throw caution to the wind and throw it back regardless.

OPINION

Milo Boyd

I didn’t regret it one bit. The best way to avoid the tourist throng mooching around Windermere is definitely to get out on the water instead. Since lockdown, the iconic Lake District town has been struggling with visitor numbers. According to Visit Britain, the Lake Windermere cruises that leave from Bowness were the eighth most popular paid tourist attraction in England last year. In 2022, they attracted more visitors than Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, and St Paul’s Cathedral.

One of the best ways to slip the crowds, I discovered, is to jump behind the wheel and motor off yourself.

We’d picked up the boat from Windermere Lake Cruises’ Bowness Dock hire point and been advised that in our hour slot, we’d be able to motor around a mile up the water and back. The route took us past Windermere’s largest island Belle Isle, acres of woodland filled with oak, sycamore, beech and birch, grandiose fells with tops hidden in the clouds and beauty spots like Queen Adelaide’s Hill, famed for its views.

As backdrops go, it was as idyllic as they come. (£46 for two adults, each extra adult £8). Afterwards, we parked up in Windermere village and wandered through Elleray Wood – one of the forests we’d spotted from the boat – and up to Orrest Head, a 239 metre-high hill with a delightful outlook rippling out over the lake and the fells beyond.

Ardent walker and author Alfred Wainwright hiked up to this very spot as a young man and the views he took in sparked his obsession with the Lake District, leading to his famous Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells series. It was easy to see why.

With a hefty fill of peace, quiet and serenity under our belts we later headed to the adventure mecca of Zip World Windermere further up the eastern shore of the lake.

After doing a pretty good job of introducing high-octane fun to Snowdonia Zip World have since expanded into other UK venues too, like this one. But the remit remains the same – to thrill, excite and terrify. There are several activities at The Windermere site but my partner Tim and I thoughtfully volunteered our son Freddie, 16, and family friend Rory to take part in the most hardcore – the full trek treetop adventure course.

The two-to-three-hour circuit involved a series of obstacles designed to challenge – and seemingly scare the pants off you.

Freddie and Rory navigated see-saw planks, tightrope-style shimmies, zip lines and wobbly bridges all at up to an eye-watering 15 metres off the ground.

The aerial skateboards, where they had to balance on a moving plank of wood and watch their feet skid a lot faster than the rest of their body (while being very high up of course), was certainly one of the most entertaining bits for us observers to see.

It was great fun – both for the doers and watchers. (from £39pp).

We were staying about 40 minutes from Windermere by car at another beautiful spot – Landal Twin Lakes, nestled discreetly in woods in Tewitfield near Carnforth, just over the Cumbria border in Lancashire.

One of Landal’s newest resorts, it was small, laid-back and smartly kept with a series of beautifully appointed lodges set around – you guessed it – a pair of twinkling lagoons.

Ours had three bedrooms, with a huge master one up on a cool mezzanine level. Two bedrooms had en-suites and there was a further family bathroom to boot. We certainly never needed to queue for the loo.

But it was the enormous double-height, open-plan living area that really stood out, with floor-to- ceiling windows and patio doors at the lake-end letting the outside in and providing us with a stunning vista.

The wine cooler and dishwasher in the smart fitted kitchen added to the touch of luxury. Decking at the front also allowed us to enjoy fresh air and sunshine by the calming water while a hot tub, carefully concealed from neighbours by a high hedge, gave us a warm respite during cooler moments.

I could imagine snuggling up in the bubbles during a winter stay, snowflakes fluttering overhead and a romantic smattering of white icing crowning the lake.

The fact there were no other facilities on site – no spa, restaurant, entertainment or communal areas – gave Landal Twin Lakes even more of a peaceful air.

All in all, the accommodation was top-notch – and the setting bliss. We felt a world away from all life’s hustle and bustle.

When we could drag ourselves out of the hot tub for long enough the wider area offered plenty of walks, pretty villages and wonderful views over hills and coast.

A hike up Warton Crag rewarded us with the opportunity to survey the vast Morecambe Bay, with its wide sweep of sandflats and stretches of salt marsh.

Keen to explore the landscape more, we later motored over to Arnside, a quaint seaside resort at the River Kent estuary. To take advantage of the sunshine, we bypassed inviting pubs and cafes and instead sat on the pier to tuck into fish and chips – while dodging hungry seagulls.

Then afterwards, we headed to the quiet village of Silverdale, where we ambled down the beach, clambering over rocks and skimming stones with the Lake District fells standing majestically in the background.

Away from the coast and just down the road from Landal Twin Lakes lies Greenlands Farm Village, which offered family fun from archery and quad biking to a very well-thought-out indoor crazy golf course.

The on-site shop sold lots of locally produced goodies like craft ale, cakes and spirits – plus fresh milk from a nearby farm that you pumped out yourself from a churn.

The Longlands Inn across the road was a comfy and friendly place for a much-needed breather and a very tasty pale ale called Fell Walker from the Bowness Bay Brewery. It was nearly as relaxing as a slow and steady jaunt on Windermere.

GET THERE

Landal Twin Lakes is just off junction 35 of the M6. You’ll need a car to get around.

BOOK IT

A three-night stay in a three-bedroom lodge at Landal Twin Lakes for up to six people costs from £719. See landal.co.uk

MORE INFO

visitlakedistrict.com, visitlancashire.com.

The four-mile trail from the village of Haworth to Top Withens in West Yorkshire is well trodden; numerous footprints squelched into the boggy ground by those seeking the view said to have inspired the setting for Emily Brontë’s 1847 novel Wuthering Heights. The landscape rolls in desolate waves of brown bracken. A lone tree punctuates the scene. It’s bleakly, hauntingly beautiful.

With the release of Emerald Fennell’s new film of the Gothic masterpiece starring Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi next week, Haworth and many of the filming locations in the Yorkshire Dales national park, where the book is set, are braced for a slew of visitors.

The local residents, though, seem distinctly unfazed by the attention.

“We’re used to crowds,” shrugs Craig Verity, the landlord at the Kings Arms, a pub at the top of Haworth’s steep cobbled Main Street, just steps from the parsonage where the Brontës were raised.

Brontë country has been milking the connection for decades. On a wall in the Kings Arms, a board promotes a selection of Bridgehouse cask ales named Charlotte, Anne, Emily and Branwell, the latter being the lesser-known Brontë brother.

In the surrounding streets, there’s the Brontë Hotel and the Brontë Bar and Restaurant, as well as – somewhat tenuously – Brontë Balti.

The Brontë Parsonage, where the sisters lived, wrote and – in Emily and Charlotte’s case – died, is now a museum housing artefacts, personal items and manuscripts, as well as hosting events such as workshops, talks and screenings of adaptations of the books. It draws around 75,000 visitors annually, a number almost sure to rise this year; a screening of 1992’s Wuthering Heights planned for 12 February has already sold out.

Scenes from this version, starring Ralph Fiennes and Juliet Binoche, were filmed at East Riddlesden Hall, about five miles from Haworth. The exterior of the 17th-century National Trust property also featured in the 2009 mini-series as Wuthering Heights itself, as well as in the now-lost 1920 silent version.

The 1939 Laurence Olivier and Merle Oberon film was shot in California and on set in Hollywood.

“We only know about the use of the property because of a January 1921 article in the Shipley Times and Express,” said Sophie Fawcett, a senior marketing and communications officer with the National Trust.

Coinciding with the release of Fennell’s new adaptation, East Riddlesden Hall will be holding a Lights, Camera, Brontë exhibition, which will showcase, for instance, the “vast oak dresser” thought to have inspired the one described in the opening pages of the book. It came originally from Ponden Hall – about an hour’s walk from Haworth and now a bed and breakfast – to which the sisters were frequent visitors.

One room here features a box bed and window, likely to have inspired the scene in which the ghost of Cathy appears to a terrified Lockwood.

For this new film, the cast stayed at Simonstone Hall, a sumptuous country house hotel in Yorkshire Dales. It’s a 20-minute drive from here to Swaledale, where many of the scenes were shot.

“They were lovely people, and brilliantly undemanding,” said the owner, Jake Dinsdale, noting that Robbie had since been back for a stay with her husband. “Although they’d booked out all 20 rooms, our restaurant was still open to the public, and the cast enjoyed being around the firepit to toast s’mores, or sitting down to a roast dinner or afternoon tea.”

His own attitude is equally relaxed. “I don’t know what the film will do,” he said. “It could all be a flash in the pan, and that’s fine. If it sticks, that’s also great. What I do know is that I won’t be renaming any rooms as ‘The Jacob Elordi Room’ or ‘The Heathcliff Room’.

“Commercial naffness isn’t for us – I’ll just be happy if guests understand why so many people love the Yorkshire Dales.”

In the meantime, Simonstone Hall is offering a Wuthering Heights Romantic Getaway package until 13 March: two nights for £738 per couple, including champagne on arrival, candlelit dinners, bedtime brandy and truffles, leisurely breakfasts and late checkout. Copies of the novel are also available in the gift shop.

Tony Watson, head of economy and tourism for North Yorkshire council, said: “The area has featured in so many films and series; we’re experienced in managing that. Post-Covid, we were already seeing more younger people getting outdoors and exploring the county, and this demographic will doubtless grow as the film showcases the area’s beauty and authenticity.

“We’ll have to wait until the release to see whether there’s some iconic shot that people want to replicate. If there is, hopefully it will be somewhere like Aysgarth Falls, which has all of the necessary infrastructure in place – otherwise, we’ll need to suggest alternatives that don’t make mountain rescue unhappy.”

Back at The Kings Arms, Jack Greatrex, who lives in the area, is sanguine. “The Brontë sisters shaped this village for future generations, and for lovers of landscape and literature,” he said. “This film could mean that they continue to do so.”

Whatever effect the new film has, said Watson, they’re ready for it. “I’m the luckiest head of tourism imaginable – the film is going to do my job for me.”

You are a beginning or intermediate skier, allergic to long lift lines, more interested in peace and quiet than après-ski action. Or you have young kids, ripe for introduction to skiing or snowboarding. Or you simply want a rustic mountain getaway, one where you can amble through a woodsy little village with zero Starbucks.

These traits make you a good candidate for June Lake, the eastern Sierra town that lives most of its life in the shadow of bigger, busier Mammoth Lakes.

“It’s way family-friendlier than Mammoth,” said Daniel Jones after a day of June Lake snowboarding with Lorena Alvarado and children Gabriela Gonzales, 7, and Amirah Jones, 2. They had come from Riverside, a first-time visit for the kids.

After a day of snowboarding at June Mountain, Daniel Jones and Lorena Alvarado of Riverside head for the parking lot with children Gabriela Gonzalez, 7, and Amirah Jones, 2.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Like me, they’d arrived in time to savor the sight of the Sierra under all the snow that fell in late December. That storm knocked out power for several days, but led to the opening of all the trails on June Mountain, the town’s ski resort.

The main road to June Lake is the 14-mile June Lake Loop, a.k.a. State Route 158, which branches off from U.S. 395 about 10 miles north of the exit for Mammoth, roughly 320 miles north of Los Angeles.

Once you leave 395, things get rustic quickly. The two-lane loop threads its way among forests and A-frames and cabins, skirting the waters of June Lake and the lake’s village, which is only a few blocks long. Check out the three-foot icicles dripping from the eaves and keep an eye out for the big boulder by the fire station on the right.

After the village, you pass Gull Lake (the tiniest of the four lakes along the loop) and the June Mountain ski area. Then, if you’re driving in summer, the road loops back to 395 by way of Silver Lake and Grant Lake.

The June Lake area in the eastern Sierra includes several bodies of water. Rush Creek, seen here, feeds into Silver Lake a few miles from the village of June Lake.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

But in winter, the northern part of that loop is closed to cars, Maybe this is why the village, mountain and environs so often feel like a snowbound secret.

As for the June Mountain ski area, its 1,500 accessible acres make it much smaller than Mammoth Mountain (with whom it shares a corporate parent). And it has a larger share of beginner and intermediate runs — a drag for hotshots, maybe, but a boon for families.

By management’s estimate, June Mountain’s 41 named trails are 15% beginner level and 40% intermediate. (At Mammoth, 59% of 180 named trails are rated difficult, very difficult or extremely difficult.) Leaning into this difference, June Mountain offers free lift tickets to children 12 and under. (Adult lift tickets are typically $119-$179 per day.)

From the chairlifts at June Mountain ski resort, visitors get broad views.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

The ski area is served by six chairlifts, and just about everyone begins by riding chair J1 up to the June Meadows Chalet (8,695 feet above sea level). That’s where the cafeteria, rental equipment, lockers and shop are found and lessons begin.

That’s also where you begin to notice the view, especially the 10,908-foot Carson Peak.

“Usually, me and my family go to Big Bear every year, but we wanted to try something different. Less people. And a lot of snow,” said Valeriia Ivanchenko, a 20-year-old snowboarder who was taking a breather outside the chalet.

“No lines and lots of big, wide-open runs,” said Brian Roehl, who had come from Sacramento with his wife.

“The lake views are nice, too,” said Roxie Roehl.

June Lake is a 30-minute drive from Mammoth. Because both operations are owned by Denver-based Alterra Mountain Co., Mammoth lift tickets are generally applicable at June. So it’s easy to combine destinations.

Or you could just focus on June Lake, an unincorporated community with about 600 people, one K-8 public school and one gas station (the Shell station where 158 meets 395).

In summer, when it’s busiest, fishers and boaters head for the lakes and you can reach Yosemite National‘s eastern entrance with a 25-mile drive via the seasonal Tioga Road.

The Tiger Bar has anchored June Lake’s downtown since 1932.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

In winter and summer alike, the heart of June Lake‘s village is dominated by the 94-year-old Tiger Bar & Café (which was due to be taken over by new owners in January); Ernie’s Tackle & Ski Shop (which goes back to 1932 and has lower rental prices than those at June Mountain); the June Lake General Store and June Lake Brewing.

At the brewery — JLB to locals — I found Natalie and Chris Garcia of Santa Barbara and their daughter Winnie, 18 months old and eager to chase down a duck on the patio.

“This is her first snow,” Natalie Garcia said, adding that June Lake “just feels more down-home … less of a party scene.”

“We built a snowman,” said Chris Garcia.

Natalie and Chris Garcia of Santa Barbara play with their daughter, Winnie, and a duck at June Lake Brewing.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

It’s fun to imagine that rustic, semi-remote places like this never change, but of course they do, for better and worse. The Carson Peak Inn steakhouse, a longtime landmark, is closed indefinitely. Meanwhile, Pino Pies, which offers New Zealand-style meat pies, opened in the village last spring. (I recommend the $13 potato-top pie.)

Pino Pies, open since 2025 in June Lake, offers New Zealand-style meat pies.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Next time I’m in town I hope to try the June Deli (which took over the former Epic Cafe space in the village last year) and the June Pie Pizza Co. (New York-style thin crusts) or the Balanced Rock Grill & Cantina. And I might make a day trip to Mono Lake (about 15 miles north).

I might also repeat the two hikes I did in the snow.

For one, I put crampons on my boots and headed about 3 miles south on U.S. 395 to the Obsidian Dome Trail, a mostly flat route of just under a mile — great for snowshoes or walking dogs.

For the other hike, I headed to the closed portion of June Lake Loop and parked just short of the barricade. Beyond it, a hiker or snowshoer finds several miles of carless, unplowed path, with mountains rising to your left and half-frozen Rush Creek and Silver Lake to the right.

When part of Highway 158 closes to auto traffic in winter, hikers and snowshoers inherit a broad, mostly flat path with views of Silver Lake.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

“You get up to the lake and you hear the ice cracking. It’s wonderful,” said Mike Webb, 73, whom I met on the trail with his son, Randy, 46, and Randy’s 10-year-old and 12-year-old.

“This is serenity up here,” said Webb. “If you’re looking for a $102 pizza, go to Mammoth.”