OUR Spotlight On column takes an in-depth look at the best things to see and do in popular holiday destinations, as well as shining a light on some lesser-known spots.
This week we’re highlighting the best of the Sicilian coastal resort of Cefalu.
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We’re talking all things Cefalu, a resort in SicilyCredit: Alamy
The Sun’s Head Of Travel, Lisa Minot said: “The seaside town ofCefaluis perfect for a weekend break.
“You can spend several happy hours wandering along the promenade by the wide, sandy beach and into the old town, passing the many shops and restaurants in the tiny alleyways.
“We couldn’t resist taking our obligatory Instagram shots at medieval sea gate Porta Pescara, before wandering past the quirky Lavatoio Medievale — an ancient wash house fed by a river that falls into the sea.
“The 12th-century cathedral with its soaring twin towers and elaborate Byzantine mosaics is well worth a visit, with a reviving drink in the square below it just as delightful.
“The Porta Ossuna restaurant and pizzeria is perfect for a lunch on the seafront, we had a table right above the beach for us to enjoy the freshest of salads with burrata and prawns.”
MUST SEE/DO
While its broad, sandy beaches are an obvious draw, the winding cobbled streets of this medieval gem are a major part of its charm.
And all roads lead to the cathedral, the Duomo di Cefalu – a masterpiece of Arab-Norman architecture.
Don’t miss the 12th century Byzantine mosaics inside but for a real behind-the-scenes look, pre-book the Red Itinerary (£11.30) that includes the chance to climb the Norman towers for a fantastic view over the Piazza del Duomo.
Just off the Via Vittorio Emanuele is a quirky piece of history – a medieval laundry where local women washed clothes for centuries on stepped stones, fed by a natural spring.
HIDDEN GEM
The main beach can get crowded in summer but a little effort – and a 20minute walk east – and the Spiaggia di Kalura is a quieter pebble cove with crystal-clear water and dramatic rock formations, perfect for snorkelling.
For fabulous sunset views of Cefalu itself and its dramatic cliff-face backdrop head to the village of Sant’ Ambrogio which offers a snapshot of Sicilian village life without the crowds.
The island has some quiet beaches if you know where to lookCredit: Alamy
BEST VIEW
It takes a little effort and is best completed early in the day or later in the afternoon in the summer.
But it’s so worth the climb to the top of La Rocca – a huge limestone cliff that looms 268 metres over the town.
It’s a 45minute hike to the top where you’ll find the Temple of Diana, a megalithic structure from the 9th century BC as well as the ruins of a Norman castle.
It also offers fabulous views over the city and the sparkling Mediterranean beyond.
RATED RESTAURANT
It’s hard to get a bad meal in Cefalu with hundreds to choose from in the winding alleys.
Also ideal for dining by the sea, Lo Scoglio Ubriaco is perched over the sea and is a must for seafood pastas.
And for stand-out pasta dishes, try Pasta e Pasti, legendary for its handmade offerings – go for the Pasta alla Norma or anything made with local pistachios.
It’s nearly impossible to find bad food on the islandCredit: Alamy
BEST BAR
For sunset sips, head to the Jureka Wine Bar on Via Giudecca. There’s a wide choice of tipples with cocktails starting from £9.50.
And for fabulous views over La Rocca and the whole the town, head to the rooftop bar Dokeio at the Hotel La Giara with its multiple roof terraces and late night music.
For day drinking by the Med waves, head to the Bordomari Sea Lounge Bar with great views and cocktails from £9.
HOTEL PICK
Beach babes will love the 4* Astro Suite Hotel, right on Cefalu’s sands and with panoramic sea views.
It’s just a short walk from the historic centre and features an elevated terrace with pool and loungers as well as rooms with balconies, sea views and kitchenettes.
Six nights’ B&B is from £934 including flights from Stansted. See tui.co.uk.
IT SEEMS like everyone has either been to Bali, is planning to go to Bali, or wants to go to Bali.
But what about heading to one Indonesian neighbourhood the tourists don’t make a beeline to?
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When heading to Bali, many people head to Canggu but next door there is a trendy and quieter neighbourCredit: Getty
The seaside village of Pererenan was recently named the third coolest neighbourhood in the world by Time Out.
Time Out stated: “While the tourist hordes pack into Canggu, those in the know are heading to neighbouring Pererenan.
“This place will remind you of what made Canggu famous in the first place – pristine beaches, cosy cafés, eclectic shops, and a certain laidback cool, devoid of noise and traffic.”
You won’t miss out on the classic Bali charm though, as the area is great for surfers and those who like to sunbathe.
One top spot that’s a must-visit is Pererenan’s black-sand beach – which gets its colour due to the volcanic activity on the island.
The beach tends to be less crowded than its neighbours as well, and is known for having amazing sunsets.
The seaside village has a black-sand beach which is ideal for surfingCredit: AlamyPererenan was recently named the third coolest spot in the worldCredit: Alamy
When heading to the beach, make sure to lookout for the Gajah Mina Statue, which is of a mythical creature that has the head of an elephant and the body of a fish.
One recent visitor said: “This place was quite lovely. Was able to watch surfers, grab a bite to eat, catch the sunset and watch the tide rise in the evening.
“Lots of restaurants and surfing options – it was very peaceful.”
You can also walk from Pererenan Beach to Echo Beach – one of Bali’s most famous surfing spots in the busier village of Canggu – just 500 metres away.
According to Ministry of Villas, “blending in with trendy Canggu, Pererenan is becoming more popular but still maintains a more relaxed Balinese feel”.
Around the beach you will also find a few spots to grab a bite to eat.
And there are a number of restaurants nearbyCredit: Alamy
While there aren’t as many restaurants as there are in other neighbourhoods, there is Hippie Fish Pererenan Beach which looks right over the beach.
The Mediterranean-inspired seafood restaurant serves a variety of dishes include red snapper and black cod and also has a rooftop bar where you can grab a cocktail.
There are a number of Balinese temples across the village as well including the Pura Batu Mejan (Kahyangan Jagat) temple, which sits at the edge of the beach.
One visitor commented: “Pura Batu Mejan Canggu is a beautiful temple, unique, highly respected and holds great spiritual significance.
“Visitors can feel a calm and relaxed atmosphere, while enjoying beautiful panoramas at Pererenan Beach.”
One recommended place to stay is Further Hotel which features a unique architecture across its one and two bedroom suites.
One top spot to stay at is Further Hotel, which is spread across several buildingsCredit: Refer to source
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And if you do want to head out of Pererenan then you can visit central Canggu, which is 10 minutes away and home to Bali’s most popular beach clubs and nightclubs.
Around 30 minutes away is also Tanah Lot Temple, which is one of the most famous temples in Bali, sat on a rock offshore.
Flights to Bali from the UK cost from £660 return, per person, in June.
Spain is one of the most popular holiday destinations for Brits, but if you want to avoid the crowds, one holidaymaker has shared a ‘hidden gem’ with stunning views and rich history
14:42, 12 Jun 2026Updated 14:42, 12 Jun 2026
A holidaymaker claims to have found a ‘hidden gem’ in historic city near Malaga (stock image)(Image: Getty Images)
When it comes to summer getaways, Spain consistently ranks as one of the most beloved destinations for British holidaymakers, and it’s not hard to see why. Nestled in Southern Europe, it enjoys pleasant weather all year round, with summer temperatures frequently soaring to 30 degrees on a daily basis.
Even during quieter months, visitors can expect comfortable temperatures of around 20 to 25 degrees. With the mainland just a short two-hour flight from the UK – although the Canary Islands can take up to four hours to reach – many Brits consider it the ideal distance for a break.
That said, Spanish authorities have previously voiced frustration with the sheer volume of tourists flocking to the country, leaving hotspots such as Mallorca and Palma absolutely packed to the rafters during the summer months.
Now, however, one traveller named Andrew McDonnell claims to have uncovered one of Spain’s best-kept secrets – a destination that delivers scorching summers and stunning scenery, without the overwhelming crowds. He took to TikTok, where he has amassed more than 12,100 followers, to share highlights from his trip to the historic southern Spanish city.
“One of Spain’s hidden gems left me truly speechless,” read the caption accompanying his post.
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Ronda is a stunning mountaintop city situated in the Málaga province of Andalusia in Southern Spain. It is renowned for its dramatic position perched atop the sweeping El Tajo gorge, which divides the city’s 15th-century new town from its ancient old town, which dates back to the era of Moorish rule.
The iconic Puente Nuevo, a striking stone bridge that spans the dramatic gorge, features a viewpoint offering breathtaking views. The new town’s Plaza de Toros, a legendary 18th-century bullring, remains one of the city’s most instantly recognisable landmarks.
Ronda is also widely regarded as the birthplace of modern bullfighting, with a bullring dating back to 1784. Although the bullring remains open to visitors, actual bullfights are an increasingly rare sight, with just one symbolic event staged there annually during the Corrida Goyesca, as part of the Feria de Pedro Romero, which traditionally takes place in the last week of August.
Beyond its rich and fascinating history, the city also possesses a romantic charm that has captivated poets and writers for centuries, bolstered further by its spectacular mountaintop setting, widely considered one of the most stunning locations in the entire country.
Being a compact town, everything is easily reachable on foot. And while it stands as one of the most celebrated of Andalusia’s ‘pueblos blancos’ (white villages), it has managed to avoid the mass tourism that has overwhelmed its coastal neighbours, such as Malaga.
Andrew went on to say: “Ronda is one of those places that simply doesn’t need any words to be described, because being there and seeing it for yourself is enough. The content really doesn’t do this place any justice for how spectacular it is.”
And situated in Southern Spain, you can anticipate the typical Mediterranean climate, featuring hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters.
Thanks to its elevated position (roughly 739 metres), it does see chillier winters and occasionally hotter summers than neighbouring coastal resorts.
As it’s just 100km from Malaga, roughly an hour and a half’s drive away, Ronda serves as an ideal day trip during your holiday, or a peaceful and relaxing base for your next Spanish getaway.
A holidaymaker has shared her experience of visiting what she calls the real ‘paradise’ of Portugal many tourists ignore, where she discovered a hidden waterfall and gorgeous beaches
People were amazed to learn about the ‘hidden gem’ of Portugal (stock image)(Image: Getty Images)
Despite the UK being forecast for another warm and sunny summer, the allure of jetting off abroad to unwind on a sun-drenched beach in a foreign country can prove hard to resist.
Just a two-hour flight from the UK, Portugal has long been a firm favourite among British holidaymakers, particularly given its reliably sunny and warm climate for much of the year. While cities such as Porto and the capital Lisbon remain among the most popular spots for tourists, one traveller now claims to have uncovered the ‘paradise of Portugal’ that many visitors don’t even know exists.
Taking to TikTok, a user going by the name ‘Solo Traveling Joy’ shared her experience of visiting the destination, revealing she had discovered a ‘hidden waterfall’ complete with a natural swimming pool, nestled among breathtaking scenery.
“Portugal is so underrated. And most people stick to Lisbon or Porto, but completely miss out on the Algarve,” she wrote in the caption of her post.
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The Algarve is Portugal’s spectacular southernmost region, stretching for over 200 kilometres along the coast. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a beach lover, or simply seeking somewhere to kick back and recharge, the Algarve is unlikely to leave you disappointed.
Celebrated for its year-round sunshine, striking ochre cliffs and sweeping golden beaches, it stands as a premier European hotspot for beach breaks, world-class golf and freshly caught seafood, according to Visit Portugal.
If you’re considering a stay in the Algarve, there’s no shortage of choices. The most sought-after destinations, however, are Lagos in the west and Tavira in the east, both widely regarded as the region’s finest spots. Lagos boasts striking golden cliffs and a lively town atmosphere, whereas Tavira delivers historic, untouched Portuguese character.
The secluded waterfall she featured in the clip is Queda do Vigario, situated near the rural village of Alte, which lies just off the A2 motorway linking Lisbon and the Algarve.
“This was one of my favourite natural swimming pools… peaceful, hidden, and 100% worth the detour,” the woman wrote in the caption accompanying her post.
“Go in the morning when no one is there!” she advised.
Viewers were swiftly captivated by the woman’s footage, with many rushing to the comment section to share their reactions.
“This looks like a hidden gem,” one person wrote, while another user said: “Wow, thanks for the tip.”
Another person said: “Adding this to my Portugal list! Amazing shots.” Someone else shared: “Been here today was lush.”
The pontiff praises Madrid as a beacon of inclusion as about 1.2 million people gather for Sunday mass.
Published On 7 Jun 20267 Jun 2026
An oceanic crowd has filled the streets of the Spanish capital Madrid with chants, cheers and applause to greet Pope Leo XIV on the second day of a weeklong apostolic journey to mainland Spain and the Canary Islands.
The Vatican and local organisers said about 1.2 million people braved the heat to be present in the landmark Cibeles Square on Sunday in what is expected to be the largest event during his visit to the country.
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Throngs of people pressed along barriers near the square – best known as the rallying point for Real Madrid football fans celebrating the club’s titles – waving flags and shouting “Long live the pope”, as Leo arrived in his white popemobile for the event. Some tossed flower petals marking his arrival.
“May Madrid continue to be a welcoming and inclusive city, where social life is inspired by true human values,” the pontiff wrote in the guestbook as he was handed the key to the city by its mayor.
Faithful attend a mass held by Pope Leo XIV at Plaza de Cibeles, during his apostolic journey in Madrid, Spain [Mohammed Salem/Reuters]
Leo began his trip on Saturday, meeting migrants and the homeless and attending a vigil with about 600,000 young people in Madrid. His June 6-12 visit also includes stops in Barcelona and the Canary Islands, where he will meet migrants and refugees who risked their lives crossing there from West Africa.
He said he hoped the visit, his first to a European Union country outside Italy, would set an example to the world about respecting “every human being” and urged leaders to stop dividing electorates.
“I am delighted that he is praying for us migrants and for our safety,” said Andrea Margarita, a 72-year-old Peruvian who arrived in Spain six months ago, as she waited in the crowd in a wheelchair with her daughter.
After mass, Leo was scheduled to hold a private meeting with fellow members of his Augustinian religious order in the afternoon before meeting figures from the world of entertainment, sport and culture at a concert venue in central Madrid.
Pope Leo XIV leads the mass in the Plaza de Cibeles in Madrid [AFP]
Zurich may be known as a financial centre, but it has a creative side, too. The Kunsthaus Zürich became the biggest art gallery in the country when its David Chipperfield-designed extension opened in 2021. Its collection spans 800 years of art, and includes old masters, Swiss artists such as Giacometti, works by Monet, Cézanne, Picasso, Van Gogh and Warhol, and contemporary artists.
The area around the Kunsthaus is now the Zurich Gallery Mile, best explored on the Zurich Art Weekend (12-14 June), held a week before the more famous Art Basel. Galleries have special exhibitions, guided tours and talks, and there are performances, art walks, screenings and parties.
The Löwenbräukunst-Areal. Photograph: Peter Baracchi/Courtesy of Löwenbräukunst Zürich
In Zurich-West, a brewery built in the 1890s became an arts centre in the 1990s. The Löwenbräukunst-Areal now houses several modern and contemporary galleries, including a branch of Hauser & Wirth.
Near Lake Zurich, the Museum Rietberg showcases non-European art in three historic villas (one where Wagner wrote Tristan and Isolde), a modern extension and surrounding parkland. Current exhibitions focus on Indian paintings, Japanese woodblock prints and Chinese lacquerware.
Day trip In Baden, 15 minutes away by fast train, the Museum Langmatt reopened this month after two years of renovation. The art nouveau villa displays about 50 French impressionist masterpieces by Cézanne, Degas, Gauguin, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir and more.
Lille, France
Lille’s Palais des Beaux-Arts. Photograph: Bouilland Stephane
Paris is the undisputed art capital of France, but Lille has some excellent galleries with lower prices and a fraction of the crowds, and can be reached even more quickly by Eurostar from London (just 1hr 20mins). The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in a beautiful 19th-century building, houses perhaps France’s richest art collection after the Louvre, by artists such as Rodin, Van Dyck, Rubens, Delacroix, Goya and Courbet (and entry is just €7 versus the Louvre’s €22).
LaM, a modern and contemporary art gallery that’s a 30-minute bike, Métro or bus ride from the city centre, reopened in February after an extensive renovation. The inaugural exhibition is a Wassily Kandinsky retrospective (until 14 June), while the permanent collection includes work by Modigliani, Fernand Léger, Paul Klee and Louise Bourgeois. Its sculpture garden contains 10 monumental pieces by Alexander Calder and more.
LaM museum of modern art. Photograph: Abaca Press/Alamy
Day tripIn Roubaix, 10 minutes away by fast train, an art deco former swimming pool is now La Piscine museum. The old showers and changing rooms now display ceramics (some by Picasso), paintings, textiles, jewellery and sculpture, all lit through stained-glass windows. In nearby Lens, the Louvre-Lens museum – a satellite gallery of the Louvre – has 250 artworks arranged chronologically from the third century BC to the mid-19th century.
Warsaw, Poland
Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art opened in 2024. Photograph: Sipa US/Alamy
Warsaw’s art scene had a huge boost in 2024 with the opening of the Museum of Modern Art (MSN Warsaw). The bright white building stands in contrast to Stalin’s menacing Palace of Arts and Science next door, and showcases Polish and international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries, including Sarah Lucas and Wolfgang Tillmans.
Other modern galleries include the Zachęta National Gallery of Art, which has 20th-century and contemporary art from painting to installation, video and performance. It has staged exhibitions by artists including Marlene Dumas and Luc Tuymens, and is currently showing the American abstract artist Barbara Kasten (until 7 June). The Ujazdów Castle now houses the Centre for Contemporary Art, with a diverse programme of exhibitions, talks, films and outdoor events in the surrounding park.
The National Museum. Photograph: Maciek Leszczelowski/City of Warsaw
Warsaw isn’t just about modern art. The National Museum, founded in 1862, is one of the oldest museums in the country. Its six permanent art galleries range from antiquity through medieval art to the 19th century. One highlight is Jan Matejko’s enormous Battle of Grunwald (1878), one of the best-known paintings in Poland. A temporary exhibition of 30 paintings by the Krakow-born artist Olga Boznańska (1865-1940), who also has work in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, runs until 5 July.
And at the Royal Castle, the two most prized paintings in the Lanckoroński Gallery are by an old master: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar at the Lectern by Rembrandt.
Castelvecchio now houses a museum. Photograph: Frank Bienewald/Alamy
Fair Verona, the home of Shakespeare’s star-crossed lovers, is overshadowed as an artistic centre by its neighbour, Venice. But this romantic city has more to offer than Juliet’s balcony. The Palazzo Maffei, a 17th-century baroque building on Piazza della Erbe, opened as a gallery in 2020. It is laid out like a cabinet of curiosities, displaying an incredible private collection of art from antiquity to today. There is a strong focus on modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky and Magritte.
GAM, the modern art gallery, is in the Palazzo delle Ragione, one of the oldest public buildings in Italy (built in the mid-1100s). The collection spans from the early 19th century to the present day, with a focus on the Italian avant garde. As well as the artworks, visitors can see the palace’s beautiful Cappella dei Notai and ascend the Torre dei Lamberti, the tallest building in Verona.
The Castelvecchio museum, housed in the 14th-century castle, displays Veronese and Venetian paintings from the medieval period to the 1700s, with work by Bellini, Tintoretto, Veronese and Rubens.
The Palazzo della Gran Guardia hosts temporary exhibitions – most recently the photography exhibition Human. The VisitVerona website has an events calendar with all upcoming exhibitions.
The Scrovegni Chapel in Padua. Photograph: Stefano Politi Markovina/Alamy
Day trip Book ahead to see the Giotta frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, 45 minutes away by fast train. The crowds here mean the city’s other attractions, such as the art gallery inside the Eremitani Museum next door, are often empty.
Oslo, Norway
The Munch museum and Tracey Emin’s The Mother sculpture. Photograph: UCG/Universal Images/Getty Images
Modern art lovers will find much to admire in the Norwegian capital. Edvard Munch has his own 13-storey museum, Munch, displaying three versions of The Scream and other renowned works including The Sun, Madonna, The Dance of Life and Love and Pain. The museum also showcases painting by Munch’s contemporaries, and holds temporary exhibitions – currently Paula Rego (until 2 August). Outside is Tracey Emin’s 9-metre high sculpture The Mother.
The National Museum, which opened in 2022, is the biggest gallery in the Nordic countries. It has a room devoted to Munch, and its own versions of The Scream and Madonna. The pioneering female artist Harriet Backer also has her own room, with many more Norwegian artists displayed alongside Berthe Morisot, Matisse, Picasso and others.
The Astrup Fearnley Museum was designed by Renzo Piano. Photograph: Berk Ozdemir/Alamy
The Astrup Fearnley Museum, designed by Renzo Piano (the architect behind the Pompidou Centre in Paris and the Whitney in New York), has a leading collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibitions.
Day tripMunch owned a villa at Ramme, 40 minutes from Oslo, from 1910 until his death in 1944. The property has been restored and visitors can now book a guided tour, visit an underground art gallery displaying his work and that of other Norwegian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries, and follow an outdoor culture trail along the fjord.
POWDERY sands, vibrant wildlife, crystal waters and less crowds – one Caribbean island has it all.
South Caicos is one of the islands found in Turks and Caicos, a British Overseas Territory in the Atlantic Ocean.
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South Caicos is part of the Turks and Caicos archipelago in the Atlantic OceanCredit: Getty
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The picturesque island often known as the fishing capital of the archipelago, with a variety of sea life including eagle rays, hawksbill sea turtles, nurse sharks, parrotfish, bonefish and conch.
Despite historically having a prominent fishing and salt industry, today the island remains largely untouched and according to Travel and Leisure, it is becoming the next Caribbean hotspot.
When it comes to things to do on the island, a lot of the top activities revolve around the local wildlife.
The small island remains largely untouchedCredit: Alamy
For example, you can go bird watching at the salt ponds across the island.
These salt ponds were operational until the 1960s, but today stand still as a haven for birds including wild flamingos.
The salt ponds aren’t just home to birds though; you might even catch a glimpse of a wild donkey.
Another wildlife-based activity you can do from the island, is heading on a boat tour to see whales such as humpbacks, between January and April.
Thanks to the island being largely underdeveloped, it is also a great spot to stargaze as there is little light pollution.
Cockburn Harbour is the main town on the island and here, visitors can expect to see dramatic cliffs and reefs – which make for great snorkelling spots.
The town itself boasts Bermudian style buildings as well as stone walls down each street and is the best place to try some of the local cuisine such as conch fritters and conch salad, spiny lobster in garlic butter and whole boiled fish.
Another popular spot to visit nearby, is The Boiling Hole, which is a tidal poolconnected to the ocean via underground caves.
If you head to the outskirts of Cockburn Harbour, you’ll see the salt salinas (marshes and ponds) as well.
Visitors can explore a number of beaches, with some being great spots for snorkellingCredit: Getty
Away from the main town, head to Highland House and Government Hill, where you’ll find a ruined colonial home that has views of the town as well as the surrounding area.
Down from Highland House, you can visit Highlands Beach – a rugged spot backed by limestone rocks and sand dunes, that also makes a great start or end point for hikes.
At the north end of the island, there’s the remote Plandon Cay Cut and beach, and if you want a more swimmin-g friendly spot, head to Long Beach, which stretches on for 1.25 miles.
This spot is often thought to be the best on the island for snorkelling as well.
South Caicos is also home to a number of salt ponds where flamingos often roamCredit: Alamy
If you happen to be on the island in May, you can experience the Annual South Caicos Regatta where there are a number of parties, boat races and games.
There are even beauty pageants, Maypole dancing and float parades as well.
In fact, it is the oldest native festival across the Turks and Caicos islands.
When it comes to places to stay in South Caicos there are a few options – though be warned they do come with a bit of a price tag.
There are also a couple of places to stay on the island – though they aren’t cheapCredit: Booking.com
For example you could stay at the Sailrock South Caicos, an SLH Hotel, from £611 per night.
The hotel features a variety of suites and villas as well as a spa, Ridgetop Spa Cabanas, sailing experiences, snorkelling and sand volleyball.
There’s also Marriott’s Salterra, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa which was named one of the best new hotels of 2025 by Travel and Leisure.
Inside, there are around 100 rooms for guests to choose from as well as a sprawling swimming pool, spa and a number of experiences including sunset cruises and flyfishing sessions.
A stay at the resort costs from £525 per night.
The best way to get to the island is by catching a short 20-minute flight from Providenciales.
A one-way flight between London and Providenciales in June costs from £362 per person.
From California Rock, 1,100 feet above Yosemite Valley, the crown jewel of America’s beloved national parks spreads out beneath you.
The jaw-dropping north face of 8,800-foot Half Dome towers to the east. The silky green ribbon of the Merced River meanders through the valley floor below, astonishingly lush during the spring snow melt. Even cars in the parking lots look fabulous, their roofs and windshields sparkling in the golden sunshine like so many tiny gems.
And then you realize those gems are everywhere — as far as the eye can see — because every single parking space in the valley is full.
On the way down from that vantage point, Upper Yosemite Falls Trail, which was practically empty at 9 a.m., had turned into a human conveyor belt by 11 a.m. Hundreds of people trudged up the steep switchbacks in single file.
People hike the Upper Yosemite Falls trail in Yosemite National Park on Saturday.
(Eric Thayer/Los Angeles Times)
That’s what’s giving parks enthusiasts heartburn this spring.
Even before the summer rush, which begins in earnest in a few days with Memorial Day weekend, California’s most visited national park is seeing enormous crowds. There have been more than 836,000 visits so far in 2026, according to National Park System data — about 100,000 more than this time last year.
The reason, according to parks advocates, is the Trump administration’s decision to abandon a reservation system implemented in 2020 to limit crowds during the COVID-19 pandemic. The system has been used on and off since then to help control the number of visitors and preserve a sense of natural tranquility.
On Saturday, there seemed to be an uneasy balance: The crowds were large but well-managed, with some visitors worried about the months ahead.
On the valley floor, as hundreds of people pressed together to gaze in awe at Lower Yosemite Falls, Jeff Wilson of Folsom said he was having flashbacks to 2023, the last time the park allowed entry without permits.
“It was just absolute bumper-to-bumper traffic all the way around the loop. Zero places to park, cars just circling all day, and people pulling off into just random spots,” Wilson said. “It was an absolute mess.”
People walk to the bottom of Yosemite Falls in Yosemite National Park on Saturday.
(Eric Thayer/Los Angeles Times)
There were echoes of that everywhere on Saturday. Parking lots filled up fast — the lot at Curry Village was full by 8 a.m. — and cars were stashed in every unmarked flat spot their owners thought they could get away with.
Once people found somewhere to leave their cars, they didn’t dare move them. Most relied on the free shuttle that circles the valley floor. The big white buses were jammed to capacity by midday, as were the bus stops, where people often had to wait for several shuttles to pass before one arrived with room.
Still, the lines were reasonable to enter the park and pay the fee — $35 per car for U.S. residents and President Trump’s new $100 per person extra charge for foreigners. That means a family of four from abroad would have to pay $435.
People who arrived very early breezed through the toll booths, and even those who showed up after 9 a.m. said they waited only about 15 to 30 minutes. That was a dramatic improvement over recent weekends, when social media lit up with complaints of hour-and-a-half ordeals.
Traffic flowed slowly but smoothly on the main paved roads around the valley floor. There was the occasional outburst as angry drivers leaned heavily on their horns, filling the peaceful meadow with a sudden blast of urban agita, but in general, things remained calm.
“We thought it would be more crowded,” said Laura Yuen, from the Bay Area. “But it’s actually manageable. We’re on bikes, and people are making room and are courteous.”
Arriving early and stashing the car was key for Yuen and her companion.
“A couple of sights have been crowded — those were the really touristy spots. But other than that, it has been beautiful,” she said. “This is a great time of year to come.”
Whether the good times will last once the high season begins is the question.
People board a shuttle in Yosemite National Park on Saturday.
(Eric Thayer/Los Angeles Times)
Since Trump returned to office in 2025 and unleashed Elon Musk’s Department of Government Efficiency on the federal work force, the National Park System has lost nearly a quarter of its employees to layoffs and buyouts, according to the nonprofit National Parks Conservation Assn.
And the Trump administration has proposed about 3,000 more job cuts — roughly another 25% — in the coming year. Trump has also proposed slashing nearly $800 million from the park system’s roughly $3-billion operating budget.
All of which risks tipping the delicate balance into chaos and gridlock, critics warn.
By 2 p.m., a flashing sign at the entrance to Curry Village advised that the parking lot was full and directed people to try their luck elsewhere.
Still, dozens of drivers crept around the lot, hoping to pounce if someone pulled out. It looked like an especially depressing way to spend an afternoon surrounded by some of the most celebrated natural wonders on Earth.
Kunal Khandwala of San José was among those searching for a spot until he gave up and pulled over, blocking a few cars but ready to move if their owners returned and needed to leave.
His friends had hopped out and joined the line at the Curry Village Pizza Deck, waiting to grab some food and go find a quiet spot for a picnic — far from the village.
The situation was “testing,” Khandwala said, but not intolerable if you relaxed and remained patient.
And anything was better than subjecting yourself to the shuttle, he joked.
People raft down the Merced River with Yosemite Falls in the background in Yosemite National Park on Saturday.
(Eric Thayer/Los Angeles Times)
“The waits are insane,” he said, pitying people who had only a day in the park and were hoping to hit all of the highlights by bus. “There’s no way. You’re not going to see everything you want if you rely on the shuttle.”
Parks officials were unable to provide the number of visitors who arrived on Saturday, or compare that to the crowds on recent weekends.
But with Memorial Day looming, this weekend felt like the calm before the storm.
Which is why Wilson, the frequent visitor from Folsom, said he is “very, very much pro-reservation. It is a hassle — you have to plan ahead — but it just makes it a better experience for everybody.”
He had also brought his bike, which seemed to be the best way to elude the masses.
“This is my favorite place in the world, no matter what the crowds are like,” he said before pedaling off. “As long as you can get in, come, have a good time, you’ll love it.”
REMOTE, rugged, and refreshingly underrated, Montenegro doesn’t scream and shout for your attention.
Everyone goes wild for Croatia’s polished reputation when planning their summer travels, but that comes with a conveyor belt of tourists pottering through various old towns and restaurants lining the Adriatic Sea.
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Boats moored in Kotor harbourCredit: GettyThe pool at the Hyatt Regency Kotor BayCredit: Supplied
An understated alternative, Montenegro is every bit as beautiful, but far less busy.
Explore further and you’ll find an abundance of great food and adventure without needing to reserve any sun loungers or doing serious damage to your bank balance.
On the way through various towns, you won’t find any attempts to cater for mass tourism, a testament to their “Polako, Polako” approach to life, which translates as “slowly, slowly”.
Nothing reflects that more than McDonald’s attempt to crack the market in the country.
The fast-food giants opened a restaurant that was so unsuccessful they quickly closed it — the people here prefer to eat locally.
Surprisingly, while the culture and people are beautiful, warm and welcoming, they’re far from the standout feature of this stunning country.
Variety is perhaps the word that describes it better than any other.
Take in the stunning views over KotorCredit: GettyThe scenic Lake Skadar National ParkCredit: Getty
In a matter of hours, you can go from ski slopes to beach sun lounger — and that’s without considering its stunning lakes.
Montenegro is not somewhere you go to sit still for a week, although you could. It’s somewhere you must explore.
For me, the best way to ease into the “Polako Polako” way of life was on a boat trip through Lake Skadar.
Getting there is an experience in itself. Winding along one-track roads, we arrive in the village of Rijeka Crnojevica.
Clambering aboard a local’s traditional wooden boat, we glide silently along narrow channels lined with towering reeds.
As we emerge into the open water, the lake reveals its true scale, a shimmering body of water framed by the dramatic, jagged peaks of the Albanian Alps on one side and the rolling green hills of Montenegro on the other.
Keeping our eyes peeled — it’s a sanctuary for more than 280 species of birds — we attempt to spot the rare Dalmatian pelican, known to perch on the ruins of the 19th-century Lesendro Fortress.
The rare bird evades us, although we do spot a lone heron and plenty of other birds chirp overhead.
Looking at the almost turquoise waters, you see colours you would expect in the Maldives or Australia — not somewhere less than a three-hour Jet2 flight from Stansted.
The lake tour is around two and a half hours.
Try to spot the rare Dalmatian pelican, known to perch on the ruins of the 19th-century Lesendro FortressCredit: GettyThe Church of Our Lady of Remedy, perched on the slope of St. John MountainCredit: Getty
For couples, it’s an easy win: Relaxed, scenic, and just enough activity to feel like you’ve done something with your day.
After the cruise, a simple lunch of freshly prepared local fish rounds things off, and every bite tastes as fresh as the water we’ve been floating through.
That sense of authenticity carries through to the food more broadly, and nowhere is that clearer than at one of the country’s traditional olive farms.
Moric Olive Farm on the Lustica Peninsula is a perfect example and the journey there takes us past wild pomegranate trees, dry stone walls and into the silver-green olive groves.
We are welcomed by Ilija Moric, whose family has tended the trees for eight generations.
His passion is obvious as he takes us through the farm’s history, showing us the contrast between the ancient stone mill where donkeys once turned the heavy wheels to the shiny, modern organic production they use today.
If Lake Skadar is about slowing down, Montenegro’s vast black mountains are where the country comes to life.
Paved roads give way to rugged tracks, and the scenery becomes more dramatic with every turn, revealing sweeping viewpoints, scattered churches perched in improbable locations, and a sense of isolation that feels both exciting and grounding.
Exploring this landscape on foot, stopping to take in the silence or to light a candle and say a prayer in a small, weathered church, adds a layer of depth to the experience.
Rarely does a destination manage to balance contrast so well, moving seamlessly between rustic and refined, active and relaxed, without ever feeling disjointed, and it’s that consistency of variety that makes Montenegro so worth visiting.
Our base was the 4H Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay Resort, set right on the edge of the bay.
There’s an underground tunnel connecting the hotel with its private shingle beach, and the hotel itself features two pools including a vast, heated infinity pool overlooking the bay.
There’s three restaurants on site but it is just a 15-minute drive to the medieval maze of Kotor’s Old Town.
For couples searching for a summer escape that delivers on scenery, activity and atmosphere without the crowds or price tag of more established hotspots, Montenegro makes a strong case as the quieter, more affordable alternative to Croatia.
GO: MONTENEGRO
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ B&B at the 4* Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay is from £1,389pp including flights from Stansted in September, 22kg baggage and return transfers.
Huge crowds gathered in Tehran’s Revolution Square to celebrate and send off Iran’s national football team ahead of the 2026 World Cup. The new jersey of the Iranian national team, which will be worn in the World Cup competitions, was unveiled at the event.
People heading to Yosemite to escape urban congestion fumed this weekend as they waited in a seemingly endless line of cars at the park entrance.
Inside, they circled aimlessly around full parking lots, scanning for empty spots instead of majestic views.
Near the summit of Half Dome, on the infamous steel cables hikers use to ascend the final stretch of bare granite, another traffic jam formed, trapping people hundreds of feet in the air, according to social media posts.
Even before the summer rush, California’s most visited national park is seeing big crowds — the most people in a decade, according to National Park System data.
Critics of the free-for-all are blaming the influx on the Trump administration for abandoning a reservation requirement that, for the last few years, has helped control the number of visitors and preserve a sense of natural tranquility.
California’s nine national parks drew a record 12 million visitors in 2025, up more than 800,000 from the previous record set in 2019. Yosemite accounted for more than a quarter of those visits.
This year, the pace continues, with more than half a million visits to Yosemite so far. In March, the park recorded 236,000 visits, up more than 45% from the same month a year earlier.
Yosemite National Park is enormous, covering more than 1,100 square miles on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Even at the height of summer, an adventurous soul willing to hike a bit can spend weeks in the park and rarely see another person.
But Yosemite’s most famous and Instagrammable vistas — the towering, 3,000-foot granite wall of El Capitan, the thundering spectacles of Yosemite and Bridalveil falls — can be enjoyed from parking lots and picnic benches in the relatively cramped confines of Yosemite Valley.
Visitors don’t even have to get out of their cars to gaze in wide-eyed wonder at sights they will probably remember for the rest of their lives.
And that’s the problem.
Traffic in the valley, especially on summer weekends, had become legendary by the end of the 2010s, inspiring think pieces with headlines such as “Inside Yosemite’s Traffic Meltdown” and “The Siege of Yosemite Valley.”
In June 2020, to limit crowds in the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic, the park introduced a controversial system requiring a reservation before entering.
That left a lot of would-be visitors frustrated, but those lucky enough to snag a reservation were treated to the most peaceful, serene Yosemite Valley experience in years.
Since then, the reservation system has been tweaked repeatedly as administrators searched for a sweet spot between welcoming more visitors and retaining the peace of the great outdoors.
In February, the Trump administration, which had already slashed the national park system’s staff by about 25%, scrapped the reservation system and replaced it with “targeted management” of crowds.
“We are committed to visitor access, safety, and resource protection, and will continue active traffic management strategies to ensure a great visitor experience,” Yosemite Supt. Ray McPadden said at the time. “While reservation systems are one valuable management tool, our data demonstrates that a season-wide reservation requirement is not the most effective approach for the coming season.”
A crowd of tourists gather to take pictures of the Yosemite Valley on March 23, 2025, in Yosemite National Park.
(George Rose / Getty Images)
But the new approach is already getting harsh reviews, and the busy season hasn’t even begun.
During “Firefall” in February — an annual phenomenon when sunlight lands on the water cascading from Horsetail Fall, making it glow orange and red, like molten lava — the crowds were reportedly nightmarish.
“I spent over an hour stuck in traffic leaving the park, and exiting felt more like leaving a major sporting event than it did visiting a national park,” Mark Rose, a senior program manager for the National Parks Conservation Assn., a nonprofit devoted to protecting the park system, wrote in a blog post.
“I saw an ambulance stuck in standstill traffic announcing over a megaphone for pedestrians and vehicles to move out of the way,” Rose wrote. “The views were incredible, but I don’t think I’d ever go back without a reservation system in place.”
It left Rose worried about a return to the bad old days of Yosemite traffic, when visitors would wait forever just to get to the gate, pay the $35 entrance fee and then run into road blocks, with signs turning them away because the valley was too crowded.
“That was not an unusual situation,” Rose said. “To wait in line for close to two hours to get into the park and then just be stuck driving around for hours trying to find any parking at any location within the park.”
Over the weekend, the wait in traffic to simply get through the park entrance was an hour and a half, according to Lorena Calvillo from Fresno, who posted pictures and video of the traffic on Yosemite National Park’s official Facebook page.
And once she got in?
“Gridlock. Cars everywhere. People everywhere. No parking. No space,” Calvillo wrote.
“This all comes right after the reservation system was lifted … and honestly, it showed,” she added. “Officials were literally telling people to avoid the Valley.”
Another visitor, Richard Smekal, posted about the conga line of climbers who packed onto the cables leading to the Half Dome summit. He shared a photo of the cables empty when he arrived at 9 a.m., and another taken two hours later.
“After I got down, I turned around and took the second photo,” he wrote. “The line was a continuous stream of people, barely moving — basically at a standstill.”
The cables can be deadly, especially in thunderstorms, when they become a slippery lightning rod. Being stuck there in a human traffic jam is a nightmare many experienced hikers and climbers would do anything to avoid.
A spokesperson for Yosemite did not respond to requests for comment.
Traffic is at a standstill on the Yosemite Valley floor in the summer of 2017 while a bus lane is empty and off-limits to visitors at Yosemite National Park.
Lewis Capaldi had to halt one of his shows in the US due to a technical difficultyCredit: InstagramHe kept the crowd entertained during the error, then decided to sing the song without any backing music insteadCredit: Instagram
But during his gig at Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre he encountered a major technical issue, leaving him unable to sing.
Lewis giggled next to the mic, sharing with the crowd: “Something has happened. Usually I’d be singing by now.
“Something technological has gone wrong. I’m not sure what the f***s happened.”
He then joked: “This feels like… erectile dysfunction in a way,” before checking in with his team to see if the error had been fixed.
Fans adored the acoustic performance, saying they were glad to be part of the “technical difficulties”Credit: GettyLewis is currently on his Survive tour after taking a hiatus from musicCredit: Getty
After learning it hadn’t, Lewis continued to entertain the crowd, saying: “Right, we’re not back. Hi.”
Fans of the musician found the moment hilarious and loved the way he chose to handle it – both with humour and then by deciding to go ahead with an acoustic performance while the tech issue was fixed.
One user on Instagram said: “Who needs all the technology with a voice like that?!?”
A second shared: “It was a once in a lifetime experience and we were very excited to be part of the “technical issue”.
A third added: “Well no one can claim he can’t sing live.”
Lewis’ tour shares the same name as his latest EP release which came out last year.
The new music followed him taking a two-year hiatus from the industry, after his anxiety and Tourette’s syndrome symptoms increased.
After Lewis finishes up his shows in America, he’s due to perform in Vancouver before heading over to the UK.
His first UK tour date is on June 19, taking place at the Isle Of Wight Festival.
This charming coastal spot is one of the most beautiful beaches in the UK.
This spot is perfect for summer(Image: Getty)
Summer is approaching, and if you’re already fantasising about sea and sunshine, then you’re truly spoilt for choice. While destinations such as the Mediterranean and the Caribbean are alluring, flying overseas can prove costly – without even mentioning accommodation prices and dining expenses.
Fortunately, if you’re watching your pennies, the UK boasts some genuinely breathtaking destinations to discover, right on your doorstep. Not only will it prove more affordable, it will also eliminate much of the hassle involved in organising an overseas getaway. Instead of dashing through airport security, all you need to do is jump in the car or board a train.
Staycation specialists at holidaycottages.co.uk have examined some of the globe’s most sought-after beach destinations and recommended lesser-known UK alternatives that deliver all the splendour of the finest spots but without the hefty price tag or the throngs of visitors.
The Costa Brava ranks as an extremely popular destination for British holidaymakers.
Renowned for its white sand beaches, verdant landscape and turquoise waters, this north-east Spanish hotspot frequently draws crowds of British tourists seeking to unwind by the sea, reports the Express.
For a more tranquil and budget-friendly option, Porthcurno Beach in Cornwall serves as the UK’s own slice of paradise.
The beach sits beneath towering cliffs that shield it from the wind, while the stunning clear waters prove ideal for swimming and snorkelling.
One visitor wrote on Tripadvisor the beach was “absolutely breathtaking”.
“The most amazing beach beautiful white sand and turquoise sea. Breathtaking views and definitely one of the best beaches you will ever find.”
Another said: “Spent the day here, it’s just like being abroad, clear blue skies water, perfect sandy beach and so peaceful. No arcades, no boats, no noise, just gorgeous.”
Sarah Pring, PR manager at holidaycottages.co.uk, said: “For many people, summer brings the temptation of a beach holiday, however, travel enthusiasts don’t have to travel internationally to experience crystal-clear waters and beautiful sandy beaches hidden between towering cliffs as there are many comparable spots in the UK.”
The most stunning beach alternatives in the UK
Luskentyre Beach, Scotland – looks like Turks and Caicos
Porthcurno Beach, Cornwall – looks like Costa Brava, Spain
Runswick Bay, Yorkshire – looks like Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy
Barricane Beach, Devon – looks like Calanque d’En-Vau, France
Porthdinllaen, North Wales – looks like Hout Bay, Cape Town, South Africa
This hidden gem provides the perfect no-crowds experience for summer 2026.
15:11, 28 Apr 2026Updated 15:15, 28 Apr 2026
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This island has so much to offer(Image: Freeartist via Getty Images)
Summer is just around the corner and many of us are already dreaming about our next sunny escape. With so many destinations to pick from, settling on the perfect spot can feel like quite the challenge.
Many of the world’s most coveted holiday hotspots are now bursting at the seams, which can turn a much-needed break into something of a headache. If you’re after a getaway unspoilt by hordes of tourists, it pays to explore the roads less travelled.
Travel specialists at Solmar Villas have scrutinised more than 160 destinations worldwide to reveal the most tranquil spots for a laid-back summer holiday in 2026 – and Greece has taken the top spot.
Greece boasts more than 6,000 islands to explore and while some are overrun with visitors, others remain blissfully peaceful.
Each location in the top 10 was rated across eight key factors: crowd density, climate, nature and scenery, pace of life, affordability, safety and ease of access.
Remarkably, eight of the top 10 destinations were found in Greece.
Topping the list is Alonissos – a tiny, serene island nestled in the northern Sporades – an archipelago in the Aegean Sea.
To reach it, travellers can fly from the UK to the neighbouring island of Skianthos before hopping on a high-speed ferry across to Alonissos.
The island feels worlds apart from everyday life.
Verdant hills blanketed in pine trees cascade down towards crystalline waters, ideal for a summer dip. Life moves at a leisurely pace, with traditional villages dotted across the hillsides.
The island also houses the National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades, one of the largest protected marine areas in Europe, reports the Express.
This transforms it into a haven for divers and snorkellers.
A boat trip around the island reveals caves, reefs and colourful marine life thriving beneath the sea’s surface.
It’s also home to the rare Mediterranean monk seal – fewer than 700 of them survive in three or four isolated subpopulations in the Mediterranean.
On her blog Asinglewomantraveling, travel blogger Melissa said that Alonissos is “absolutely stunning and peaceful”. She added that the island is “quiet, a little wild, totally underrated”.
A supervisor conducts a preparatory session for applicants taking the GSAT exam at Samsung Electronics’ Human Resources Development Center in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province. Graphic by Asia Today and translated by UPI
April 26 (Asia Today) — Thousands of young job seekers took part in Samsung’s flagship hiring exam over the weekend, highlighting continued demand for positions at South Korea’s largest conglomerate despite broader labor market challenges.
The test, known as the GSAT, was conducted Saturday and Sunday for applicants across 18 affiliates, including Samsung Electronics, Samsung SDI and Samsung Electro-Mechanics.
Often referred to as the “Samsung exam,” the GSAT is a standardized aptitude test used in the company’s large-scale recruitment system, which has been maintained for 70 years – the longest among major South Korean firms.
Samsung said the exam has been conducted online since 2020 following the COVID-19 pandemic, allowing candidates to take the test remotely using personal computers. The company conducted system checks in advance to ensure stable network and device conditions for all applicants.
While the exact number of test-takers was not disclosed, analysts said strong participation reflects the company’s global leadership and profitability, particularly amid a boom in the semiconductor sector.
Samsung began accepting applications in March and will proceed with interviews in May, followed by medical screenings before finalizing hires.
The conglomerate’s open recruitment system, introduced in 1957, remains unique among South Korea’s largest business groups. While many companies have shifted toward experienced hires, Samsung continues to offer regular entry-level recruitment twice a year, providing more predictable opportunities for graduates.
According to a 2025 survey by the Federation of Korean Industries, university students cited reduced entry-level hiring as the biggest challenge in job searches. Samsung’s continued use of open recruitment has helped sustain its reputation as one of the most desirable employers in the country.
Lee Jae-yong has repeatedly emphasized job creation and talent development, saying earlier this year that the company has capacity to expand hiring. He has also pledged continued investment in high-value industries alongside overseas expansion.
Samsung plans to continue recruiting talent in semiconductors, as well as emerging sectors such as artificial intelligence and biotechnology, as it seeks to strengthen its global competitiveness.
The GSAT was first introduced in 1995 under former chairman Lee Kun-hee, who called for an objective and globally competitive hiring system. Since then, other major South Korean companies have developed similar aptitude tests for recruitment.
The “forgotten” Dolomites lie to the east, far from the crowds of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Val Gardena. Belluno is the main gateway, two hours north of Venice by train or a drive up the A27. From here, the upper Piave valley leads into the quieter Friulian mountains. The land rises gently, opening into pasture, then stone lifting into spires above the meadows.
Traditional local councils, the Regole di Comunità, still manage the land and forests collectively here, sustaining artisans and alpine farmers in scattered hamlets shaped by shared work and resilience. Pastìn (a minced, seasoned blend of pork and beef), malga cheeses and polenta, once staples for long days in the mountains, are still shared over grappa at the end of the day. Beyond the hamlets, paths lead towards Monte Pelmo or drift into the beech woods of Cansiglio, where deer call at dusk. It’s a fine place to experience mountain culture, and these are some of my favourite places.
Alpine lakes and pools
Lago di Calaita is beneath the Pale di San Martino peaks. Photograph: Denis Perilli
The Val del Mis lies west of Belluno, where the narrow SP2 road follows the shore of Lago del Mis. The lake is worth half a day on its own – paddle north by canoe or kayak towards the Cascata della Soffia waterfall, or explore the side gorge of Falcina, where you can swim in still, deep pools of crystalline water under the Passerella del Peron suspension bridge, just off the SR203 past Ponte Mas. Alternatively, from the car park at the northern end of the lake, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Cadini del Brenton – a series of turquoise pools carved into white rock cascading from one basin to the next, some more than four metres deep. A wooden bridge trail leads between them, but bathing here is forbidden.
From the Val del Mis, head north-west towards San Martino di Castrozza, then south through Fiera di Primiero, following signs for the Val Vanoi on the SP79, then climb the road to the spectacular Lago di Calaita, at an altitude of 1,621 metres beneath the ramparts of the Pale di San Martino. At dawn, the rock above is grey; by sunset, the whole massif turns gold. Open meadows line the shore, and Rifugio Miralago serves canederli (bread dumplings) and polenta with tosèla di primiero, the local cheese. In winter, the lake freezes, and the meadows are used for snowshoeing. A two-hour uphill walk leads to the darker Lago Pisorno, said to be haunted.
Mountain viewpoints
From Monte Penna there are spectacular views of Monte Pelmo. Photograph: Denis Perilli
Head for Agordino – the group of valleys along the Cordevole river, south of Cortina d’Ampezzo – for the highest viewpoints. You’ll experience the same massive Dolomite walls but without the crowds. Park near Rifugio Staulanza and take CAI trail 472. In a couple of hours, climbing gently through sparse larch and open grass, you’ll reach the slopes of Monte Penna and look straight at Monte Pelmo’s immense north-west wall – sheer pale rock rising from the valley floor. You’re standing on gentle grass; across the valley, the mountain is vertical stone. The central basin – the Trono di Dio (Throne of God) – is visible in full. To the west is the jagged profile of Monte Civetta.
For a closer look at Civetta, take the old mule track from the hamlet of Piaia, through woods dotted with tabià, the traditional wooden barns used for storing hay at altitude. After a two-hour climb, the trail opens on to the broad pasture of Sasso Bianco, looking directly at Civetta’s sheer face. Note that the road to Piaia is very narrow; parking at the end is limited.
To the south-east, the Alpago basin opens out. From the small Malga Pian Grant farm, the Costa Schienon ridge leads to the rocky peak of Cima delle Vacche at 2,058 metres. It makes for a fine full day’s hike, with the view widening at every step – Lago di Santa Croce shimmers below, and the Dolomites tower beyond.
Farther north, the Campanile di Val Montanaia rises some 300 metres from the floor of its glacial valley. The walk from Rifugio Pordenone takes about three hours over scree and is suited to experienced hikers. The Perugini bivouac beneath the spire offers overnight accommodation – when climbers reach the summit during the day, they ring a small bell, which peals across the valley below.
Restaurants
Outdoor dining at Agriturismo Bon Tajer near Lentia. Photograph: Alberto Bogo
The isolation that once made these valleys hard to reach has also kept their culinary customs intact. Near Lentia in the Valbelluna, Agriturismo Bon Tajer has hundreds of hand-painted wooden plates and chopping boards hanging from the ceilings and walls. Four generations of farmers have run the kitchen where the dishes are made with local herbs and valley produce – egg custards arrive cooked in their own shells, starters come on beds of moss with foraged flowers. Finish with the farm’s own idromele, a fermented honey drink. The mountains glow purple at sunset from the terrace. It’s a 30-minute drive up from Belluno.
Higher up, above Feltre, Malga Campon sits on the summit plateau of Monte Avena. It’s a stone-and-wood hut surrounded by cattle, horses and donkeys grazing freely, with views across the Vette Feltrine peaks, the Lagorai chain and the Monte Grappa massif. In early spring, the meadows fill with white and purple crocuses. The food is homemade – thick slices of bread with pastìn and malga cheese, best eaten under a tree with the animals grazing nearby. Malga Campon is also a starting point for hikes across the plateau. It’s a 30-minute drive from Feltre.
Rifugios and farm stays
The cosy, remote Bivacco dei Loff. Photograph: Denis Perilli
In the north of the region, above Domegge di Cadore, the road ends at Rifugio Padova. But hike on up through the woods and meadows surrounding the Casera Vedorcia dairy under the jagged limestone peaks of Spalti di Toro, to Rifugio Tita Barba di Pieve(open June-Sept but book ahead, €50-80 a night including dinner), a gorgeous alpine log cabin. The hike takes about two and a half hours on the CAI 342 and 352 trails, but the rifugio serves delicious meals and has comfy beds. From the nearby viewpoint on Monte Vedorcia, the panorama stretches over the Centro Cadore lake to the Antelao and Marmarole peaks.
For something even wilder, Bivacco dei Loff, which perches beneath the cliff of Crodón del Gevero, is a cosy stone bothy with a fireplace, a loft for sleeping and a table at the window overlooking the Valle del Rujo – on clear days, the view reaches the Venetian lagoon. Below, the Via dell’Acqua follows the stream past ruined mills and washhouses down to Cison di Valmarino. It’s about a 90-minute hike from Passo San Boldo on trail 991. You can’t book and it’s free to stay, so bring a tent in the event it’s full.
In the far eastern edges of the region, the Cansiglio plateau rises into a forested tableland. Agriturismo Filippon is just a 30-minute drive from the A27, hidden in an alpine meadow ringed by fir and beech. Mountain cattle graze the clearing and wild deer also visit. Meals are prepared with farm-fresh goods and there is a barrel sauna and open-air bathtub. The old Gran Bosco de Reme di San Marco, where Venice once sourced timber for boats’ oars, beckons above, and you could walk for days here, lost in mountain air.
Huge crowds have greeted Pope Leo in Cameroon, returning to a country he visited 20 years ago as ‘Father Bob’. Al Jazeera’s Nicolas Haque was there, and explains how the Roman Catholic leader is transforming the church as congregations shrink in Europe but expand in Africa.