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Exploring Italy’s ‘forgotten’ Dolomites: ‘The same massive mountains without the crowds’ | Dolomites holidays

The “forgotten” Dolomites lie to the east, far from the crowds of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Val Gardena. Belluno is the main gateway, two hours north of Venice by train or a drive up the A27. From here, the upper Piave valley leads into the quieter Friulian mountains. The land rises gently, opening into pasture, then stone lifting into spires above the meadows.

Traditional local councils, the Regole di Comunità, still manage the land and forests collectively here, sustaining artisans and alpine farmers in scattered hamlets shaped by shared work and resilience. Pastìn (a minced, seasoned blend of pork and beef), malga cheeses and polenta, once staples for long days in the mountains, are still shared over grappa at the end of the day. Beyond the hamlets, paths lead towards Monte Pelmo or drift into the beech woods of Cansiglio, where deer call at dusk. It’s a fine place to experience mountain culture, and these are some of my favourite places.

Alpine lakes and pools

Lago di Calaita is beneath the Pale di San Martino peaks. Photograph: Denis Perilli

The Val del Mis lies west of Belluno, where the narrow SP2 road follows the shore of Lago del Mis. The lake is worth half a day on its own – paddle north by canoe or kayak towards the Cascata della Soffia waterfall, or explore the side gorge of Falcina, where you can swim in still, deep pools of crystalline water under the Passerella del Peron suspension bridge, just off the SR203 past Ponte Mas. Alternatively, from the car park at the northern end of the lake, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Cadini del Brenton – a series of turquoise pools carved into white rock cascading from one basin to the next, some more than four metres deep. A wooden bridge trail leads between them, but bathing here is forbidden.

From the Val del Mis, head north-west towards San Martino di Castrozza, then south through Fiera di Primiero, following signs for the Val Vanoi on the SP79, then climb the road to the spectacular Lago di Calaita, at an altitude of 1,621 metres beneath the ramparts of the Pale di San Martino. At dawn, the rock above is grey; by sunset, the whole massif turns gold. Open meadows line the shore, and Rifugio Miralago serves canederli (bread dumplings) and polenta with tosèla di primiero, the local cheese. In winter, the lake freezes, and the meadows are used for snowshoeing. A two-hour uphill walk leads to the darker Lago Pisorno, said to be haunted.

Mountain viewpoints

From Monte Penna there are spectacular views of Monte Pelmo. Photograph: Denis Perilli

Head for Agordino – the group of valleys along the Cordevole river, south of Cortina d’Ampezzo – for the highest viewpoints. You’ll experience the same massive Dolomite walls but without the crowds. Park near Rifugio Staulanza and take CAI trail 472. In a couple of hours, climbing gently through sparse larch and open grass, you’ll reach the slopes of Monte Penna and look straight at Monte Pelmo’s immense north-west wall – sheer pale rock rising from the valley floor. You’re standing on gentle grass; across the valley, the mountain is vertical stone. The central basin – the Trono di Dio (Throne of God) – is visible in full. To the west is the jagged profile of Monte Civetta.

For a closer look at Civetta, take the old mule track from the hamlet of Piaia, through woods dotted with tabià, the traditional wooden barns used for storing hay at altitude. After a two-hour climb, the trail opens on to the broad pasture of Sasso Bianco, looking directly at Civetta’s sheer face. Note that the road to Piaia is very narrow; parking at the end is limited.

To the south-east, the Alpago basin opens out. From the small Malga Pian Grant farm, the Costa Schienon ridge leads to the rocky peak of Cima delle Vacche at 2,058 metres. It makes for a fine full day’s hike, with the view widening at every step – Lago di Santa Croce shimmers below, and the Dolomites tower beyond.

Farther north, the Campanile di Val Montanaia rises some 300 metres from the floor of its glacial valley. The walk from Rifugio Pordenone takes about three hours over scree and is suited to experienced hikers. The Perugini bivouac beneath the spire offers overnight accommodation – when climbers reach the summit during the day, they ring a small bell, which peals across the valley below.

Restaurants

Outdoor dining at Agriturismo Bon Tajer near Lentia. Photograph: Alberto Bogo

The isolation that once made these valleys hard to reach has also kept their culinary customs intact. Near Lentia in the Valbelluna, Agriturismo Bon Tajer has hundreds of hand-painted wooden plates and chopping boards hanging from the ceilings and walls. Four generations of farmers have run the kitchen where the dishes are made with local herbs and valley produce – egg custards arrive cooked in their own shells, starters come on beds of moss with foraged flowers. Finish with the farm’s own idromele, a fermented honey drink. The mountains glow purple at sunset from the terrace. It’s a 30-minute drive up from Belluno.

Higher up, above Feltre, Malga Campon sits on the summit plateau of Monte Avena. It’s a stone-and-wood hut surrounded by cattle, horses and donkeys grazing freely, with views across the Vette Feltrine peaks, the Lagorai chain and the Monte Grappa massif. In early spring, the meadows fill with white and purple crocuses. The food is homemade – thick slices of bread with pastìn and malga cheese, best eaten under a tree with the animals grazing nearby. Malga Campon is also a starting point for hikes across the plateau. It’s a 30-minute drive from Feltre.

Rifugios and farm stays

The cosy, remote Bivacco dei Loff. Photograph: Denis Perilli

In the north of the region, above Domegge di Cadore, the road ends at Rifugio Padova. But hike on up through the woods and meadows surrounding the Casera Vedorcia dairy under the jagged limestone peaks of Spalti di Toro, to Rifugio Tita Barba di Pieve (open June-Sept but book ahead, €50-80 a night including dinner), a gorgeous alpine log cabin. The hike takes about two and a half hours on the CAI 342 and 352 trails, but the rifugio serves delicious meals and has comfy beds. From the nearby viewpoint on Monte Vedorcia, the panorama stretches over the Centro Cadore lake to the Antelao and Marmarole peaks.

For something even wilder, Bivacco dei Loff, which perches beneath the cliff of Crodón del Gevero, is a cosy stone bothy with a fireplace, a loft for sleeping and a table at the window overlooking the Valle del Rujo – on clear days, the view reaches the Venetian lagoon. Below, the Via dell’Acqua follows the stream past ruined mills and washhouses down to Cison di Valmarino. It’s about a 90-minute hike from Passo San Boldo on trail 991. You can’t book and it’s free to stay, so bring a tent in the event it’s full.

In the far eastern edges of the region, the Cansiglio plateau rises into a forested tableland. Agriturismo Filippon is just a 30-minute drive from the A27, hidden in an alpine meadow ringed by fir and beech. Mountain cattle graze the clearing and wild deer also visit. Meals are prepared with farm-fresh goods and there is a barrel sauna and open-air bathtub. The old Gran Bosco de Reme di San Marco, where Venice once sourced timber for boats’ oars, beckons above, and you could walk for days here, lost in mountain air.

Wild Guide Northern Italy: Hidden Places and Great Adventures from the Dolomites to Tuscany is published on 1 May by Wild Things (£19.99). To order a copy for £17.99 go to guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

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Huge crowds greet Pope Leo in Cameroon 20 years after outreach trip | Religion

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Huge crowds have greeted Pope Leo in Cameroon, returning to a country he visited 20 years ago as ‘Father Bob’. Al Jazeera’s Nicolas Haque was there, and explains how the Roman Catholic leader is transforming the church as congregations shrink in Europe but expand in Africa.

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UK seaside town with ‘timeless charm’ and almost no crowds is ‘best in spring’

A lesser-known seaside town with striking landscapes, a stunning beach and a thriving town has been hailed as one of the best places to visit for a spring getaway

A picturesque seaside town has been celebrated as one of the UK’s best-kept hidden gems, with fewer crowds and a ‘timeless charm’.

Nestled along the coast in East Devon is Sidmouth, with red sandstone cliffs, sprawling beaches and a regency-style town. It sits at the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage site, the Jurassic Coast, famed for its dramatic cliffs and winding coastal paths, and offers more than 62 miles of footpaths to admire its diverse landscapes.

The town is also situated between rolling hills and the waters of Lyme Bay, offering a blend of coast and countryside. Its pebble beach is set against the backdrop of the red sandstone cliffs of the Jurassic Coast, and is the perfect spot to lap up the warmer rays and admire its striking terrain.

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A visit during spring has been noted as a particular highlight as the scene of Sidmouth transforms into a sea of yellow, when thousands of daffodils bloom in what is referred to as the ‘Valley of a Million Bulbs’. The picture-postcard scene has been dubbed a ‘hidden gem’, while the town’s lesser-known status makes it an ideal escape away from tourist hotspots.

Alex Gwillim, local expert at Sweetcombe Cottage Holidays, highlighted Sidmouth’s undeniable appeal. “Sidmouth is a stunning location for a spring getaway. It’s usually a little quieter at this time of year, so you can really appreciate the beauty of the coastline and countryside without the summer crowds”, Alex shared.

“Visitors also get the chance to witness the Valley of a Million Bulbs come into bloom. The whole town is transformed by the mass of golden daffodils nodding in the sea breeze. It’s a spectacular sight and a special event that not many visitors know about.”

With more than 62 miles of footpaths, including the renowned South West Coast Path, which connects Sidmouth to Budleigh Salterton and Branscombe, the town is a haven for avid walkers. Or for those who simply want to take in the majestic views of the coast, with its towering cliffs, pebble beach and seaside charm.

Alex added: “From these routes, you’ll find some fantastic vantage points to take in the flower display. I’d recommend heading up to Peak Hill for some of the best views.”

The town itself is brimming with independent businesses, from artisan shops and boutiques to trendy restaurants serving up locally sourced ingredients and cosy cafés. Sidmouth was even described as “a town caught still in a timeless charm” by English poet John Betjeman, and it’s easy to see why.

Aside from its coastal vistas and thriving town, there’s plenty to do during a visit, with Alex noting her particular favourite. “On the 15th and 16th of May, Sidmouth Sea Fest takes place in Connaught Gardens. It is a brilliant community-led festival celebrating the East Devon coastline, marine life and sustainability,” Alex said.

“And one of my personal favourite events of the year, the Sidmouth Jazz & Blues Festival, from the 22nd to the 25th of May. This brings world-class jazz, blues, soul and roots music to Sidmouth. Just make sure to book tickets ahead of your visit, as it is always a busy one!”

For anyone looking for a spring escape, she added: “There are lots of lovely options for accommodation in Sidmouth, from cosy cottages to family-friendly stays. It’s a timeless spot on the Jurassic Coast that is perfect to explore this spring.”

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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The pretty town on Mamma Mia! island with ‘glowing’ cave and barely any crowds

ISLAND destinations are often whimsical, but one spot in particular is a crowd-free gem.

Vis Island in Croatia is just over an hour on the ferry from Split.

Komiza on Vis features crystal clear waters and hardly any crowdsCredit: Getty

And it was recently named among Intrepid’s annual ‘Not Hot’ list for 10 overlooked destinations you should visit this year.

Though if you want to head to a seaside town without the crowds, the Croatian Tourism Board recommends visiting Komiza on the island, which according to the board is where fishing on the eastern coast of the Adriatic was born.

The town dates back to the 12th century and is surrounded by pretty villages to discover as well.

Stiniva Beach is just an 18 minute drive from the town and is the number one thing to do on the island of Vis, according to TripAdvisor.

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The cove has crystal clear waters and pebbles, like many other beaches across the island.

From the road, it is about a 20 minute hike down to the beach, though many visitors note it isn’t easy, so sturdy shoes are recommended.

Boat tours go to the beach too, though, which is probably a better option for the more elderly.

One recent visitor said: “Stiniva Beach is hands down the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen in my life.

“Tucked away in a secluded cove with crystal-clear water and beautiful high cliffs surrounding you, it feels like stepping into a hidden paradise.

“The atmosphere is peaceful and almost surreal, especially in the early morning when the light is soft and the crowds haven’t arrived yet.”

If you want to head to a more accessible beach, opt for Gusarica Beach which is right by the town centre.

The beach features small pebbles and it is a great spot to go paddleboarding.

The island and Komiža more specifically, was also used as a filming destination for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again.

The area was also used to film parts of Mamma Mia! Here We Go AgainCredit: Alamy

In the second film, Harry and Bill have dinner in a Greek tavern.

In reality, the tavern is a restaurant called Jastožera and does have the amazing view that you see in the film.

The restaurant is located by a 15th century fortress that connects two cliffs and created an open air sea pool used for lobster breeding.

Since 1883, the restaurant has been owned by the Komizan family Marinkovic-Mestrezane and today you can visit to try fresh lobster dishes.

Komiža is a great base for visiting the Blue Cave on Bisevo island as well, which is an even smaller island.

The “island of peace and purity”, according to BlueCave-Bisevo.com, is known for its Blue Cave, which was revealed by Viennese painter Eugen Baron Ransonnet in 1884.

Since, tourists flock to the cave which has since become protected as a geomorphological natural monument.

What makes the cave so special is that it captures an unusual light phenomenon which gives everything in the cave a blue glow.

In 2019, research revealed that the blue glow is created by morning light hitting the yellow sandy bottom and illuminating the interior of the cave.

Nearby, you can also explore Blue Cave, which ‘glows’Credit: Alamy

Visitors can only head to the cave on an organised trip, which are available between April 1 and November 1.

Tickets to the cove can be purchased in the gift shop in Mezuporat Cove, near the cave entrance.

They cost 75 Croatian kuna (£8.67) per adult and 35 kuna (£4.05) for children, but in the peak season rise to 100 kuna (£11.56) per adult and 50 kuna (£5.78) per child.

If you book a Blue Cave tour from Split, your entrance will be included in your ticket.

The best way to get to Komiža is by flying to Split, with flights usually costing from £24 one-way.

Once in Split, hop on the ferry to Vis which usually costs between €6.50 (£5.66) and €26 (£22.63) per person.

For more inspiration on holidays to Croatia, there’s a tiny island which bans cars that tourists say ‘feels like being in a fairytale’.

Plus, the little-known Mediterranean hotspot Brits are moving to for super-low taxes, 97p beer and 31C summers.

Flights to Split, Croatia cost as little as £24 one-wayCredit: Alamy

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