Cornwall

SCATTERED across the UK are a number of beautiful seaside towns and one has been described as looking like Cornwall – despite being over 400 miles away.

The village of Staithes was once the largest fishing port on the North East coast – it’s still used for fishing, but on a much smaller scale.

It has pretty cobbled streets with a small sandy beach that sits inside its natural harbour and traditional seaside cottages.

Despite its position along the Yorkshire coastline, lots of people are saying looks like it belongs in the south.

One wrote on Tripadvisor that it’s the “Cornwall on the east coast”.

Another added that it’s a “place is for good old fashioned fun, no slot machines down here”.

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Unlike other seaside towns and villages there aren’t any big piers or arcades.

If you visit during the colder months and need to warm up, then head to Dotty’s Vintage Tearoom for coffee, tea and cake.

There’s also the Royal George Pub, Captain Cook Inn and The Cod and Lobster seafood restaurant which sits on the very edge of the coastline.

The village has independent boutiques and its own museum too where visitors can learn about Captain Cook and the history of Staithes.

You can easily visit other spots along the coast as Staithes sits between Whitby and Middlesbrough along the coastline.

It’s a popular seaside spot and was mentioned by Sun readers as one of their favourite underrated places in Yorkshire.

Sun reader Amy Stevenson said: “There’s no place quite like Staithes, it’s just so picturesque.”

Another mention was from Claire Allen who walked 4,000 miles around the UK coastline, raising money for Shelter charity.

Along the way visited over 1,000 coastal towns and villages – and Staithes is one of her favourites.

She told Country Living: “The view down to the village is almost enough to remember it by, but the narrow streets, pretty houses and a sheltered, sandy beach that’s as popular with fossil hunters as it is with families, put Staithes firmly at the top of the places-to-go-back-to list.

“There are pubs, cafes and tearooms, but not so many that it feels impersonal.

“I met a couple who were so taken with the place, that they’d spontaneously decided to extend their holiday.”

Here’s where to find the ‘best seaside town’ in the UK with a castle on the beach…

Bamburgh in Northumberland is constantly topping the rankings when it comes to the UK’s best seaside town.

The annual Which? ranking of seaside towns is created every year, with thousands of people surveyed about their experiences of UK beach holidays over the last year.

Once again, Bamburgh in Northumberland came top of the pile, making it four years in a row that the north east town has claimed the title.

Bamburgh is renowned for its stunning sandy shoreline, backed by the imposing ruins of its ancient castle.

One Travel Writer who visited said: “Visitors can take a dip in the fresh North Sea if they’re feeling bold, however I decided to simply dig my toes into the soft sand and take in the sights of Bamburgh Castle, which stands imposingly atop a hill behind the beach, creating a real life work of art.

“Making the scene even more idyllic is the small snack van, Bait at Bamburgh, tucked away in a car park behind the dunes.

“Its phenomenal crab crumpets are its signature dish, while local smoked Craster kippers are also on offer, providing beach-goers with delicious gourmet seafood treats plucked straight from the sea in front of them.

“The same locally-sourced produce can be found in places like the Potted Lobster, a relaxed bistro-style restaurant, whose freshly-prepared meals have earned it a place in the Michelin guide on four separate occasions.

“The Copper Kettle and Clock Tower tearooms serve similarly well-regarded fare. The former of the two describes itself as being “widely recognised as one of the finest Tea Rooms in the country” while the latter is part of the castle that draws people to Bamburgh from far and wide.“

Plus, one Sun writer reveals more on the ‘prettiest town’ in Yorkshire where she grew up that southerners won’t have heard of.

And from someone who’s walked 10,000 miles through British countryside names their quaint English village that everyone should visit.

The light is fading fast as I stand inside Tregeseal stone circle near St Just. The granite stones of the circle are luminous in this sombre landscape, like pale, inquisitive ghosts gathered round to see what we’re up to. Above us, a sea of withered bracken and gorse rises to Carn Kenidjack, the sinister rock outcrop that dominates the naked skyline. At night, this moor is said to be frequented by pixies and demons, and sometimes the devil himself rides out in search of lost souls.

Unbothered by any supernatural threat, we are gazing seawards, towards the smudges on the horizon that are the distant Isles of Scilly. The clouds crack open and a flood of golden light falls over the islands. My companion, archaeoastronomer Carolyn Kennett, and I gasp. It is marvellous natural theatre which may have been enjoyed by the people who built this circle 4,000 years ago.

We have met at Tregeseal to talk about the winter solstice. Carolyn’s work focuses on the relationship of Cornwall’s prehistory with the sky, and she describes the whole Land’s End peninsula as an ancient winter solstice landscape. This, she says, is because of the spine of granite that runs south-west along the peninsula, towards the midwinter sunset. If, for example, you stand at winter solstice by Chûn Quoit – the mushroom-shaped burial chamber high on the moors south of Morvah – you will see the sun set over Carn Kenidjack on the south-western horizon. And likely this is exactly as Chûn Quoit’s Neolithic builders intended.

Carolyn suggests that Tregeseal stone circle was deliberately sited to allow people to view the midwinter sun setting behind the Isles of Scilly. “Seen from here, Scilly is a liminal space. On a clear day with high pressure, the isles look close up and just pop. On other days, they’re simply not there. The circle builders could have viewed Scilly as an otherworldly place, perhaps a place of the dead, associated with the winter solstice and the rebirth of the light.”

We thread through the darkening russet moor past prehistoric burial mounds and heaps of mining slag to a mysterious monument, which may be the UK’s only ancient row of holed stones. Unlike the stone at Mên-an-Tol, their better-known sister a few miles away, it’s impossible to crawl through the Kenidjack holed stones; these holes are barely big enough to fit my hand through and very low to the ground. Archaeologists remain baffled.

Carolyn’s theory is that the row might have worked as a kind of winter solstice countdown calendar, with the rising sun shining through the holes from late October until December and creating varying beams of light in the stones’ shadows. “Feeling the warmth of that golden beam of sunlight in the cold, dark moor gave me a visceral experience of how prehistoric people might have perceived winter solstice,” she says.

Too many ancient sites are aligned to the rising or setting of the sun at midwinter or midsummer for it to be a coincidence. It makes sense that prehistoric farmers, who relied on the sun for light, warmth and the growth of crops, would want to track the sun’s movement. But in the 21st century, the darkness of this time of year still weighs on our spirits, and so we welcome the winter solstice, that darkest day of all before the hours of light begin to grow again. And where better to celebrate the return of the light than on the Land’s End (West Penwith) peninsula, which points towards the setting point of the sun on the year’s shortest day?

A bitter easterly is gusting, and eerie moaning rises from unseen cows as I tramp through soggy clover to pay a visit to the Boscawen-Ros stone, keeping watch as it has done for thousands of years above the peninsula’s south coast. It is just one of scores of prehistoric stones that stand alone or in pairs or circles all over the peninsula; less than a mile away are the famous Merry Maidens, dancers turned to stone for breaking the Sabbath. I think about how long the stone has persisted here, enjoying its view of the Celtic Sea and English Channel: where once Neolithic coracles would have floated, now the container ships and the Scilly ferry pass by.

Christopher Morris’s mesmerising film A Year in a Field, which documents 12 months in the life of this stone, draws attention to the power of its still and silent presence in the ever-changing landscape. “And I deliberately started and ended the film with winter solstice,” he tells me, “because it is a moment of pure hope – the promise of the ending of darkness and a bright new year ahead.”

On 21 December, all over West Penwith, people will be marking midwinter by walking to stone circles and holy wells, to hill forts and ancient beacons. Carolyn Kennett will be leading a guided walk to Chûn Quoit to observe the sun setting over Carn Kenidjack. Morris will walk to the Boscawen-Ros stone, as he does every winter solstice, in a sort of ritual of reflection and renewal. Later he, like thousands of others, will crowd into Penzance for Montol, a midwinter festival that dates only to 2007 but revives the very old Cornish custom of guise dancing, with its elaborate masks and costumes, traditional carolling and music of pipe, drum and fiddle.

Morris calls Montol “a wild night of misrule” – mischief and taboo-breaking are positively encouraged. The sun (in papier-mache form) will be set ablaze, while revellers disguised in animal masks, foliate heads or veils will dance triumphantly around it. There will be a herd of ’obby ’osses (hobby horses, including one called Penglaz and another called Pen Hood), dragons, fire-dancers and riotous merry-making. “A lot of sprout-throwing, too,” Morris adds. At 9.30pm those still standing will parade the Mock (the Yule log), flaming torches in hand, down Chapel Street to the sea. It is a fittingly uproarious and darkly magical celebration to welcome back the light.

In enchanted West Penwith, where rings of dancers were turned to stone and the witches once lit solstice fires in the moorland cromlechs, the tradition of folklore, storytelling and community ritual is still very much alive. And especially now, at midwinter.

Fiona Robertson is the author of Stone Lands, published by Robinson at £25. To support the Guardian buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

Cornwall might be best known for its show-stopping beaches and natural beauty – but there’s a whole host of family-friendly attractions, from theme parks and soft plays to historic jails and kid-friendly museums.

It’s a good idea to have some wet weather ideas up your sleeve, or if you simply want an alternative to exploring Cornwall’s golden sands and picturesque fishing villages. 

We’ve asked Cornwall experts, holiday park staff and Sun readers who have holidayed here for their recommendations of the best family attractions in the county, located near your next £9.50 Holiday park. Here’s what they said… 

Hop on a bus

Carol Harris, 72, from Clacton-on-Sea, Essex, stayed at Parkdean Resorts Lizard Point and her top tip is to take the double decker bus, which stops right outside the holiday park.

She said: “Taking the bus was an unexpected highlight. We took a double decker to Penzance for just £4 for an all-day ticket. The sea views from the top deck were brilliant – and, as passengers instead of driving, we both got to enjoy them.

“We jumped off at Marazion for St Michael’s Mount, which is beautiful. In Penzance we walked along the quay and got unlimited refills of coffee in Wetherspoons for £1.56.”

Cornwall expert and Sun travel writer Ellie Ross also recommends the Atlantic Coaster.

She said: “On a sunny day, children will also love the thrill of riding this open-top bus.

“It links Hendra Holiday Park in Newquay with Padstow, offering amazing views out to sea, and you can hop on and off as you please. It’s also a bargain – with single fares from £2.”

Take a boat

A short ferry ride can add a dose of excitement to a day out, especially for little ones.

You can hop on board the St Mawes Ferry from Falmouth, like Laraine Wells, 73, from Taunton in Somerset, did during her £9.50 Holiday to St Ives.

She said: “Falmouth is a great place to mooch about – there are loads of small, independent shops selling interesting things.

“You can also catch the ferry to St Mawes – it’s a nice boat trip over and St Mawes is a pretty fishing harbour that you can explore or just have a cup of tea in one of the cafes.”

Family tickets cost from £7.56 return for five people; under-threes travel free. You can take a (foldable) buggy on the ferry.

Toddler-friendly attractions

If you’ve got tots in tow, rainy day activities can be a challenge.

In which case, take a trip to Lappa Valley, a train-themed attraction set in beautiful countryside on the outskirts of Newquay.

As well as the steam engine that chugs you into the park from the car park, it features mini golf, outdoor play areas and indoor soft play (tip: check the train timetable before you arrive – they only run every 40 minutes in low season).

It was recommended by Dani Fillery, Owner and Guest Experience Manager at White Acres Holiday Park.

Dani also recommended Newquay Trampoline and Play Park, which has an under-twos area as well as huge soft play for older children (tip: rainy days are especially busy, so book online to avoid disappointment).

Meanwhile, Camel Creek is an adventure park that’s great for kids of all ages. Dani said: “There’s a huge indoor soft play where you can hide away if it rains. It’s reasonably priced, we’ve been going for years with my son who is now six.”

For older kids

Cornwall expert Ellie Ross said: “Located just off the A30, Bodmin Jail is a great option en route to or from Cornwall – or if you’re happy to head half an hour inland from your holiday park.

“The 18th-century prison has recently been redeveloped into an attraction and hotel, and is a great option for families with older children, offering educational tours for children up to the age of 16 (Key Stage 4).

“Highlights include an interactive walk back in time, offering a glimpse into life inside the historic jail.

“Or pop over to Falmouth, where the National Maritime Museum has loads of interactive exhibitions that will engage youngsters while teaching them about Cornwall’s seafaring past, from pirates to packet ships.

“Tickets – which last a year – cost £18 for adults and £9 for under-18s. Under-fives get in free.”