coastline

THE sun tickles my face as I gaze across the North Sea on a bright April day. 

And I can safely say that this amazing spot on Sweden’s west coast radiates a stillness that could relax even the busiest soul. 

Varberg, a 40-minute train ride from Gothenburg, is emerging as a proper wellness spot. 

One where holidaymakers come to escape life’s rigours and experience authentic Sweden, without the modern-day malls and restaurant chains that have taken over many major cities across Europe. 

Here, old-fashioned practices and a fuss-free way of life are still very much the norm — and I couldn’t wait to try them out. 

Throwing myself straight into the action, I head to the town’s Kallbadhuset — which translates as “cold bathhouse” — perched on the sea and reminiscent of a Disney castle.  

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Plunging into the water, I brace myself for the rush of cold — and the brief dip certainly wakes me up.  

Luckily, I can follow it up with a visit to the spectacular sauna, warming my limbs while I soak up the stunning view of the town’s pier. 

Of course, cold plunges are not the only perk of being by the sea.  

Varberg and its surrounding towns in Halland County are a haven for seafood lovers. One of the best places to sample it is Spiseriet.

Translated, it means “the place to eat” — and it certainly does its name justice.

Having worked at a string of Michelin-star restaurants throughout Gothenburg, charismatic host Peter Hallden and chef Martin Anneflod decided to open their own place in the picturesque Johnssons Gard. 

Diners sit in a renovated former stable and choose from a ridiculously fresh menu of classic Swedish grub.  

My Norwegian langoustines, Peter informs me, were in the sea four hours earlier, having been collected from nearby fishing village Traslovslage.

Make sure to try the falafel, too, made from local fava beans and pesto rustled up from local nettles. It is Michelin-star quality, but with a home-cooking feel to it and without the extortionate price tag. 

If you do want to push the boat out, however, then Restaurant Ang by the Astad Vineyard is a great spot to sample Michelin-star dining.  

At just over £100pp, its eight-course tasting breakfast is less eye-watering in price than its dinner and will keep you full for hours.  

Star dishes include waffle with a side of caviar, thick hash brown with fava beans and a breakfast cheesecake. 

Attention to detail is the name of the game here and doses of morning caffeine are served with a difference. Kenyan coffee beans are soaked in local lingonberries for 18 hours before being served as what looks like juice, but tastes like a refreshingly fruity iced coffee. 

After gorging on several hearty courses, I’m properly fuelled for my hiking trip in Steninge, 45 minutes south of Varberg. This area is filled with glorious trails, although Steninge, home to the Steningedalens nature reserve, has some of the best. 

An excellent path winds along the Hallandsleden coast, enabling ramblers to take in sensational views of the sea. Or if you prefer to cycle, stretching parallel to the coastal path is bike trail Kattegattleden.  

The 240-mile route begins in Helsingborg and weaves past idyllic farm shops, guesthouses and fishing villages as well as sandy beaches. 

Along the way is Steninge Kuststation, where I stop for vegetarian Swedish meatballs, mash and local lingonberries. If you think Ikea’s meatballs are good then these will knock your socks off. 

Co-owned by Frida Fernbrant and Martina Gustafsson, the guesthouse is a perfect overnight stop for cyclists — with tastefully decorated old-fashioned rooms, sea views, homely food and an outdoor stage for live music. 

Back at my base, the Varbergs Kusthotell resort helps me properly unwind and rest my weary legs.  

The modern facility sits just 52 steps from the sea, with spa facilities open late so that guests can enjoy an after-dinner swim. 

Three outdoor pools arc around the main spa building, which houses an indoor swimming facility in addition to two luxurious hot tubs. 

As I watch steam from the heated pool rise into the still night air, I can’t help but feel totally at ease. 

Wellness breaks don’t get much better than this.

DEVON is one of the most popular counties in the UK to visit for a staycation – so when looking at where to explore it can be hard to find somewhere that only locals know about.

Nestled within the coastline, between Dawlish and Torquay, you’ll find Babbacombe.

While it is often skipped for its larger neighbours on the English Riviera, Babbacombe deserves a spotlight of its own.

What used to be just a humble fishing village in the 16th century, has turned into a much-loved local gem.

In records, the area was previously known as ‘Babbecumbe’ meaning ‘Babba’s Valley’ and by 1775 there were only a few cottages littered across the area.

In the late 19th century, John ‘Babbacombe’ Lee survived three attempts to hang him at Exeter Prison for a murder he had committed in Babbacombe.

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He became known as ‘the man they could not hang’ and has become a story told by locals.

In the Victorian era, the region grew in popularity for tourists as it was recognised for its dramatic cliff scenery.

The small town is home to Babbacombe Beach, which is made up of shingle and sits below the towering red cliffs that form Babbacombe Downs.

One recent visitor said: “Babbacombe Beach is a very peaceful, attractive place; the views from the top of the cliff are stunning.”

At Babbacombe Downs, you’ll find a promenade which is thought to be the highest in England, boasting amazing views across the bay.

And from there you can head to Oddicombe Beach, by walking down a picturesque lane – but be warned it is rather steep.

Alternatively, you can catch the funicular down to the beach.

One recent visitor said: “Oddicombe beach is a wonderful suntrap with a micro climate of its own.”

If with little kids, I would recommend taking the Babbacombe Cliff Railway, which has been operating for 100 years, this year.

The funicular runs from Babbacombe Downs to Oddicombe Beach, which neighbours Babbacombe Beach.

The Babbacombe Cliff Railway was built in 1926 and over that time has shuttled hundreds of holidaymakers to and from Oddicombe Beach.

The funicular did have to close for some time though between 1941 and 1951 due to wartime restrictions.

The carriages were later replaced in the early 2000s and painted in the original maroon and cream colours, with Torbay’s coat of arms on either side.

I remember as a child using the 200-metre cliff railway, with it feeling like stepping back in time, as if I was entering a part of history that I had been learning in school.

Nothing quite compares to the views either, the steepness of the track nestled between red sandstone and grey Devonian limestone 73metre-high cliffs means you can see the beach below with nothing disturbing the picture.

Because the railway and beaches below are hidden in the cliffside, not many tourists know about it.

It’s also away from the main hubbub of the main towns on the coastline.

If you’re wanting somewhere special to eat, head to Babbacombe Bay Cafe.

They serve freshly made toasties with salad and warming cups of tea that are ideal after being buffeted by the coastal winds.

You can also take a walk to the high street, which is about three minutes from the Downs.

One place to visit here is Bygones, a museum with a full-scale replica Victorian street.

The museum has over 2,000 artefacts to discover and your four-legged friend can even join you on a visit.

Tickets cost from £13.95 per adult and £9.75 per child.

Another nearby attraction is Babbacombe Model Village, which is over 60 years old.

Spread across four acres, visitors can feel like a giant as they explore hundreds of scenes depicting British life, including iconic landmarks.

I used to visit once or twice a year growing up and particularly remember going at Christmas when all of the park’s models become covered in ‘snow‘.

The attraction has a sense of humour too, great for keeping parents entertained.

For example, there’s an ‘unaffordable housing development’ and a celebrity mansion with the Mutant Ninja Turtles and The Incredibles family playing in the garden.

Included in your admission ticket, you also get the chance to watch a film in the attraction’s 4D cinema.

It was always a laugh being jolted around in your seat as puffs of air and water were sprayed at you.

Every Friday evening from April to October, the whole park is illuminated with multi-coloured lights as well.

Tickets cost £21.95 per adult and £17.95 per child.

If you are looking for somewhere to stay, there are several options.

For example, you could stay at the Babbacombe Palms Guest House from £65 per night.

Fancy something a little more luxury? Then opt for the Cary Arms Hotel and Spa costing from £195 per night.

For more places to explore in Devon, here are the top 15 boozers in the county.

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