castles

IN our trusty motorhome, my family and I have gone across much of Europe – but somehow never quite made it to Germany.

Perhaps that was because of my ill-fated attempts at learning ­German at school, which lasted little more than a term.

But keen to head off the beaten path, we loaded up our Bailey of Bristol Adamo XL-DL and headed for the Bavarian Alps.

Of course, there was the slight worry of “what if it’s not as good as where we usually go?”. Spoiler alert: The Bavarian Alps are brilliant.

And they are a region — and part of a culture — with so much to offer the whole family.

The drive to get there was a little longer than we are used to.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

However, much to my children’s delight, stop-off point Lech Camping coincided with a visit to Legoland Germany, providing all manner of brilliant rides and attractions.

It was also the perfect contrast to what awaited us in the mountains.

Our base was Via Claudia Camping, set on the edge of Lake Lechsee in the Allgau region, which gave us easy access to attractions and impressive views of the mountains.

But the mountains would have to wait, because first on the list was a visit to one of Germany’s most ­famous castles.

Perched dramatically on a prominent hill, and surrounded by dense pine forests, Neuschwanstein Castle is, quite simply, magical.

With its towers, turrets and whimsical balconies straight out of a fairytale, you feel Rapunzel herself would have been right at home here.

That was followed by the charming village of Oberammergau, recommended by our campsite receptionist as the best example of something truly Bavarian.

Here you get Luftlmalerei — the centuries-old tradition of painting murals on the exterior walls of houses — giving the village the air of a living storybook.

Our own tale from the village came in the most unlikely of circumstances.

Walking down a small cobbled street, we noticed a vending machine set into the wall.

Half expecting our children to request some sort of chocolate bar, we were surprised to see it wasn’t filled with the usual confectionery.

Instead, it was stuffed with every manner of German sausage imaginable.

It made shopping for dinner easy and I got to tell my joke about German sausages, which the children insist is the wurst.

Talking of silly humour, I had to giggle at the name of the mountain we were headed to for hiking: Wank (pronounced Vank).

Anyone who has hiked with younger children will know they can be fascinated by every stick, rock and oddly shaped pine cone.

So our pace was on the slow side, but it let us appreciate the beauty of the mountains that surrounded us.

Despite frequent stops to play, rest and satisfy the children’s curiosity, we eventually made it to the top and the traditional summit cross found on Alpine peaks.

Our final reminder of why we should never have left it so long to venture into Germany came courtesy of lake Eibsee, lying at the foot of Germany’s tallest peak, the mighty Zugspitze.

Not even moody skies and the threat of rain could dampen our spirits as we set off, us on foot and the children on their bikes, on the 8km trail that heads around the shore of the lake, with the glacier-clad Zugspitze towering over us.

From fairytale castles and storybook villages with sausage vending machines, to majestic mountains and alpine lakes, Bavaria had surprised us at every turn.

And as we savoured a final sunset in the mountains, it left us with one lingering question: When are we coming back to Germany?