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PLODDING down the steep cobbled ramp, I was already starting to believe that I was stepping into a fairytale.

The boat, bobbing on the water, was the start of my journey to another world.

And, as I drew closer to my destination — a small, mist-shrouded island that was the inspiration for Neverland in JM Barrie’s Peter Pan stories — the storybook setting felt even more real.

Eilean Shona is a rugged tidal island in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides.

“Hidden gem” is an apt description of the place, with visitors having to drive down a long and winding road on the mainland before they even reach the boat taxi that will ferry them to the island.

Boats aren’t on a regular schedule either — the island, and its manor house, Eilean Shona House, is privately owned by Sir Richard Branson’s sister Vanessa, who transformed the destination into a luxury eco-friendly retreat in the 1990s.

BLUE SKYE THINKING

Explore the scenic wonderland of the Hebrides on a personalised cruise

PEX APPEAL

Escape the crowds and take a dip in basement pool of Edinburgh’s Apex Hotel

I really did feel like Wendy when I spotted Neverland for the first time, hidden beneath the clouds.

Just like JM Barrie’s mythical land, the island is covered in thick green woodland.

But this is far from your typical island retreat. Don’t expect speedy wifi, shops and roads, because Eilean Shona is completely car-free, has no shops and only nine people live here.

Instead, you can expect whimsical walks, white sand beaches and a cosy Scottish atmosphere.

The best way to get your bearings is with a refreshing walk to the summit of the island, 265 metres above sea level, which boasts spectacular views over Loch Moidart and the small isles of Rum and Eigg, as well as the Isle of Skye.

You can reward your hiking efforts with a slurp of vodka, because while whisky is the spirit more typically associated with Scotland, this island is where the premium spirits brand Sapling began.

Sat on a bench near the water’s edge in 2018, the brand’s founders, Ed Faulkner and Ivo Devereux, came up with the idea for a climate-positive spirit.

Sapling vodka and gin was formed — spirits that didn’t mess with the environment. In fact the firm gives back to it, by planting a tree each time a bottle is sold.

It was the perfect tipple to accompany me as I sat back and took in the calm of the starlit sky overhead, after retreating back to the manor house where I was staying.

Roaring fireplaces

There are a number of smaller cabins and cottages for those who are travelling solo or in a smaller group, but the manor house offers a more grand experience.

It’s a bit like a miniature version of The Traitors castle, with roaring fireplaces, ornate bathtubs, high ceilings and a grand staircase.

The 19th-century property was originally owned by Captain Swinburne, a Royal Navy seafarer, and it started out as a hunting lodge.

Swinburne went on to develop a great love for the pine trees that he saw on his travels and ended up transforming the landscape of Eilean Shona into one of the most diverse pine collections in Europe.

However these spectacular trees are only part of what makes the island’s surrounding so breathtaking.

My mornings consisted of refreshing plunges off the manor’s pontoon into chilly water, followed by dashes into the sauna afterwards.

You can follow it up with a hike or kayaking, or head to the other end of the island to see a gorgeous beach, which is like nowhere else in the UK, where soft, sugar-like sand meets serenely calm waters.

Eilean Shona House is the island’s main accommodation, sleeping up to 18 people, with a dining room that can host up to 20.

There is a library as well, with a full-sized billiards table, dartboard and a large collection of board games, while in the drawing room sits a grand piano, a cosy seated alcove and views of the loch.

The house can be booked either self-catering or fully catered, with a minimum stay of three nights.

Other options include the Shepherd’s Cottage, which sleeps two people, and the Old Schoolhouse, which sleeps four.

On Eilean Shona I could exchange the real world for Captain Hook’s imaginary version — and for a short time, I didn’t need to worry about growing up.

The AA examined parking charges at the UK’s top Christmas markets to reveal the most expensive places to park – one hotspot costs £44 for four hours

As hoards of excited gift-hunters head into town for Christmas markets this winter, new research from breakdown experts shows where drivers will pay the most to park for a short festive visit, as well as the cities where prices have risen the fastest since 2024.

The AA examined parking charges at the UK’s top Christmas markets to reveal the most expensive places to park – including cities hiking fees by 50 percent.

The breakdown recovery experts found that Leicester Square Christmas Market in London is the most expensive in the country for parking at an eye-watering £22.00 for a two-hour visit, as per The AA.

Covent Garden, Edinburgh, York and Greenwich also rank among the top ten most expensive markets to park at, with each costing over £10.00 for a two-hour stay.

York and Liverpool are the cities with the biggest parking price hikes since December 2024, each increasing fees by 50% – including a new ‘event day’ fee from York Council for 2025. Bristol, Greenwich and Birmingham also feature among the top price hikers.

One of the smaller Christmas markets, Leicester Square Christmas Market is a free entry festive pop-up in the heart of London’s West End. However, parking is not free and costs £22 for a two-hour stay.

Winter Wonderland is London’s most well-known Christmas market with over 150 rides and attractions including a free Santa’s Grotto, and the UK’s largest open-air ice rink centred around the park’s bandstand. A two-hour parking stay costs £21.

Differing from traditional German-style markets, Covent Garden’s free Christmas experience is a festive takeover of the Piazza, Apple Market, and surrounding streets, and it features 300,000 lights. Parking for two hours costs £16.

Taking place across East Princes Street Gardens, West Princes Street Gardens and George Street, Edinburgh Christmas Market is also free to enter. The market features a mix of alpine-style chalets selling Scottish artisan products and Christmas gifts. A two-hour parking ticket costs £14.

York St Nicholas’ fair is a charming, free-to-enter festive event is held in the city centre in Parliament Street and St Sampson’s Square and is home to 75 alpine-style chalets offering handmade crafts, seasonal food, decorations and local produce. For two hours parking costs £10.60. York Council have introduced an ‘event day’ parking charge at the Coppergate Centre car park during the 2025 markets. Prices have increased 50% for a 2-hour stay and 29% for a 4-hour stay, although after 6pm there is a flat evening rate of £4.80.

“Christmas markets are a fantastic seasonal draw, but drivers should be aware that parking charges vary dramatically by city and by car park,” says Shaun Jones, AA Patrol of the Year. “If you’re planning a short festive trip, check the latest local parking tariffs before you go and consider public transport or park-and-ride options in city centres where parking is most expensive.”

Motorists are urged to check prices before they arrive, as many councils and car-park operators publish rates online. You should book in advance where possible using pre-booked parking as this often works out cheaper. Consider park-and-ride or outer-ring car parks- a short bus or tram ride can be cheaper and faster during peak market times.

Look for evening rates as some car parks run special evening prices that may be cheaper for market visits. Drivers are also urged to pay attention to permit or event day pricing. Markets in central locations sometimes trigger event tariffs that are higher than usual, like those in York.