cable

Rugged island at the ‘world’s end’ frozen in time and with incredible cable car

The tiny island is home to just six permanent residents, and has more sheep than people, while its only entry and exit point takes you soaring 250m above the Atlantic Ocean

Far removed from the rest of civilisation, this tiny island has been frozen in time, with nothing but fragments of a life that once thrived and a handful of people who still call it home.

Off the coast of West Cork in Ireland sits Dursey, a charming island steeped in history but offering little else. Ever since the stunning landscape acquired a new form of transport, visitors have been able to travel across from the mainland in a distinctive way and discover a place that appears to have ceased to exist.

This tranquil island is home to approximately six permanent residents, with around 15 houses that are deemed habitable and up to seven farmers.

Their livestock stays on the island, and the owners who traditionally inherited the land continue to spend a few nights on the island but never remain. This means there are likely more sheep inhabiting Dursey than there are people.

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It’s understood that when people who live in Dursey have children, they have no option but to have a primary home on the mainland, to enable schooling and access to other facilities.

Unique attraction

Dursey is home to a rare form of transport in Ireland, and the country’s one and only cable car. It carries travellers 250m above the Atlantic Ocean, across to the island, surrounded by nothing but verdant green hills.

Starting from Ballaghboy, Cork, on Ireland’s mainland, the aerial voyage transports you to Dursey in a mere seven and a half minutes.

Throughout the journey travellers can absorb the breathtaking coastal views as the minuscule speck of land gradually grows larger before them.

Built in 1969 as a reliable and secure link between the island and Cork’s mainland, as the surrounding waters are considered far too hazardous for regular boat crossings.

The stretch of water is known as the Dursey Sound and has proved erratic over the decades, with rapid tidal surges. Beyond this, submerged rocks encircling the landmass also render it a perilous voyage and generally unsafe for travellers.

After experiencing the cable car journey, one visitor posted on TripAdvisor: “For us this was the most beautiful part of Ireland.

“We took our mountain bikes over in the cable car, and luckily for us, the weather was glorious. We saw almost all of the island and spent ages staring at the views. We just haven’t seen anything to top it despite travelling the whole way round Ireland.”

Another expressed their admiration for the island, posting: “I absolutely loved Dursey Island. It’s a stunning place, delightfully remote and serene. It is the last place in Europe that the sun sets, a cool fact for you!”.

Historic ruins

Its rugged terrain is also home to numerous equally weathered historical ruins, dating back as far as the 17th century. The most notable of these historic structures is O’Sullivan Beare Castle, which was almost completely razed during the Nine Years’ War in 1602.

Very little of it survives today, and the devastation inflicted by English forces also resulted in a massacre of local residents. One visitor claimed: “Dunboy Castle was very cool, though some information on the site would have been helpful – similar to the plaques found elsewhere. The ruins are overgrown, and you almost stumble into them. “.

Another attraction is the 19th-century Napoleonic-era signal tower. It stands quietly on the island’s highest point, originally built with the purpose of warning against French invasion.

Yet it has remained in ruins since the mid-19th century, abandoned and forgotten by history.

Commonly known as the Church of Kilmichael, it comprises the monastic church and graveyard lying in ruins on the quiet island. It’s believed that the church was established by monks from Skellig Michael but was likewise destroyed in the infamous siege of 1602 by Sir George Carew’s army.

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I tried the Nordic cruise that sails from the UK with dog-sledding, Northern Lights and mountain cable cars

THE birch trees either side of us become a blur as we speed through the snowy woodland, our sled being masterfully pulled by a pack of energetic dogs.

Looking up, I spot a sheet of vibrant green and fiery pink spread across the night sky.

Aurora Borealis across a Norwegian fjordCredit: Getty
Pool and tubs on the deckCredit: Supplied
The city of Tromso, where we took the mountain cable car to the top of snow-clad Storsteinen, 1,382ft above sea level.Credit: Getty

It had always been a dream of mine to experience the elusive Northern Lights.

Now I was getting the chance to do it in the best way possible: a Norwegian Fjords voyage.

February is one of the best times of year to see the natural phenomenon in Norway, although you stand a pretty good chance at any point from late September to April.

My partner Gemma and I were travelling with Ambassador Cruise Line, which has affordable sailings from the UK, removing the need for a flight.

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Our home for the next couple of weeks, Ambition, was a modern 1,200-passenger vessel that oozes glamour with plenty of polished wood and brass, and a cosy, relaxed ambience.

Cabins are luxurious, spotless and well-appointed — refreshed each day by doting “butlers”.

Everyone on board has a complimentary dining place in either the light and airy Buckingham restaurant or smaller, more intimate Holyrood, both of which serve high-quality food with plenty of options for vegetarians like Gemma.

There is also the buffet-style Borough Market which serves delicious meals from early to late.

Plus there is speciality dining such as the fabulous Saffron, an Indian restaurant which left Gemma in raptures about the veggie selection platter.

The highlight for me, however, was the Chef’s Table experience where we were treated to a fascinating tour of the ship’s galleys before executive chef Cleo Murzello showcased his culinary skills in nine sensational courses paired with wines.

Just be prepared that you won’t feel able to move from your seat afterwards!

When we weren’t exploring the fjords, on board entertainment kept us busy every day with games — we couldn’t keep away from the high-prize £3-a-play bingo — West-End worthy theatre performances and fascinating talks including how to photograph the Aurora Borealis.

With seven bars, six restaurants, a shopping galleria, library, games room and incredible spa there’s always something going on.

Then there’s the shore experiences with everything from snowshoeing and rib-boat riding to ice bars visits and cable car trips available.

On our first morning in Norway, we woke to see low rocky islands sliding past as we got our first glimpse of the fjords — the long sea inlets between majestic mountains.

Alesund is one of Norway’s most beautiful towns. The best way to see it is to climb the 418 steps to its hillside view point and reward yourself with a svele pancake from the cafe at the top.

Setting sale on the AmbitionCredit: ARTAWAN.GDE
Our dog-sledding trip brought what we’d been waiting forCredit: Getty

Then wander around the shops filled with the Norwegian obsession of trolls and slippers, then the gorgeous harbour.

Next morning, after crossing into the Arctic Circle, Ambition glided between snow-covered peaks up Straumsfjorden to the city of Tromso.

Here we took the mountain cable car to the top of snow-clad Storsteinen, 1,382ft above sea level.

The views were spectacular — as was the high-altitude beer at the summit cafe.

But it wasn’t until our evening dog-sledding adventure that we finally got what we came for.

As darkness fell the night sky began to bubble and split.

From behind the dark mass of mountains, a collection of dancing green fingers reached upward and outwards, curling and filling the sky.

It couldn’t have been a more perfect setting as the panting huskies ploughed through the snow.

More excitement was to come, though.

Cruise stops include the frozen port of Alta, in the Finnmark area of northern Norway, home of the Sami people.

Those keen to learn about the culture can book tours which include a visit to a village and reindeer sledding.

Instead, we headed to Alta Museum to take in some of the 6,000 amazing rock paintings dating from 4,200BC, discovered in 1973.

If ice snow experiences are more your thing, try the port of Narvik, home to a breathtaking Arctic train ride and polar wildlife park.

Or there’s the city of Bergen, where you can pick up souvenirs from local shops that line the cobbled streets.

I may have returned home with a pair of troll slippers but it’s the memory of Northern Lights that I’ll be cherishing for years to come.

Even the pictures on my phone don’t do it justice.

Norwegians have an obsession with trollsCredit: Getty

GO: NORTHERN LIGHTS CRUISE

SAILING THERE: A 17-night Norway’s Land Of The Northern Lights cruise on board Ambition is from £1,709pp, departing Bristol Royal Portbury on October 16, based on two sharing an inside cabin.

Ports of call include Andalsnes, Alesund, Tromso, Alta, Hammerfest, Harstad, Leknes in Lofoten Islands, Narvik and Bodo.

See ambassadorcruiseline.com

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