Brussels

The Brusseleir dialect that’s still spoken in much of the Marolles dates back to the middle ages, a symbol of the independence of this proudly working-class neighbourhood in central Brussels. Located between the Palace of Justice and Halle Gate, it’s always been an inclusive refuge for immigrants from Europe and north Africa. The must-see Brussels tourist attractions of the Grand-Place central square and Mannekin-Pis statue are within walking distance, but the Marolles offers a very different experience: fashion, antiques and bric-a-brac shopping; alternative creative centres and provocative graffiti; characteristic estaminets (hybrid pub, cafe, bistros) specialising in hearty local dishes; and artisan breweries.

Where to eat

The splendid art nouveau Les Brigittines is a Belgian culinary institution, where chef Dirk Myny has overseen the kitchen for 35 years. He daringly reinterprets classic Flemish recipes with dishes such as smoked eel mousse and succulent pork belly with a tart cherry ale vinaigrette, or pig’s trotter, coddled egg, capers and gherkins. The three-course €38 lunch menu is a steal.

Don’t miss the experience of a traditional estaminet, either for breakfast coffee with a speculoos (spiced biscuit), or lunchtime pistolet (crusty rolls) with cheese, a hearty plate of stoemp (vegetable mash) and meatloaf, or chicons (endives) braised with ham. Estaminets such as Volle Brol and Au Mouton Bleu are fun spit-and-sawdust locales, but nothing beats the historic La Clef d’Or, which looks out over the daily flea market on Place du Jeu de Balle. Its owner, Eddy Aslan, sums up the Marolles as “a friendly cosmopolitan village where everyone is made welcome, and unique in that it is outside Belgian politics, neither Flemish nor Walloon but genuinely Bruxellois”.

A more modern estaminet is Mazette!, a cooperative microbrewery of 900 members who make more than 20 beers, mill an organic flour and bake their own bread, pizza and focaccia. Cantillon, on nearby Rue Gheude, is the last Brussels lambic (traditional wild-yeast fermented) brewery and worth a visit for its gueuze beer.

The Marolles is proudly multi-ethnic. Try My Day, opened by Iraqi refugee Yousif Alsaleh, which serves home-cooked dishes such as maqluba, a pilaf-style spicy rice dish with chicken, lamb or roasted vegetables. Alternatively, there’s Flower Food for a Moroccan beldi breakfast of semolina crepes and flatbreads with eggs, smoked beef, honey and dates. For vegetarian menus, the plant-based diner Lucifer Lives serves tasty soups such as broccoli and garlic, while the community cooperative L’Eau Chaude offers simple organic dishes such as coconut curry for €9.50.

At night, the Marolles can be a wild place to party. Start off playing pinball and table football at the brilliant bar Le Petit Lion and you could still be there at 2am, dancing with a packed crowd to local DJs. Just up the road is Fuse, a legendary techno dance club since 1994, where weekend gigs carry on till sunrise, when the Jeu de Balle bars are just opening up.

What to see and do

While the headline Magritte and Fine Arts museums are in the centre of Brussels, the Marolles offers a vibrant and challenging counter-culture scene. Dotted around the backstreets, street art enthusiasts can track down 16 of the city’s iconic comic strip murals; sadly, no Tintin, but rather local heroes such as Spirou, Blake & Mortimer, and Le Chat, a beloved cat cartoon. Wander through the streets and tunnels around the old Chapelle train station and Ursulines skate park and you enter an unofficial graffiti gallery, constantly being repaired and updated.

More formal cultural centres are the Octopus Heart art centre, which exhibits and offers residencies to local artists, and the Centre d’Art Mont-de-Piété, a 17th-century charitable organisation whose gallery hosts everything from photography and textiles to fashion shows. Be sure to go right to the end of Rue Haute, to discover the remarkable Art et Marges museum, which for 40 years has been a cutting-edge centre presenting art brut, outsider art produced by self-taught artists outside the contemporary circuit.

Where to shop

The Marolles is vintage shopping heaven, attracting fashionistas hunting down rare outfits, interior design fans looking for art deco lamps and Murano mirrors, and bargain hunters searching for collectibles in the sprawling Jeu de Balle flea market. Bernard Gavilan is the neighbourhood’s undisputed fashion guru; he opened his first boutique here in 2011, an Aladdin’s cave of vintage clothes and accessories. “Retro fashion has become much more important in the Marolles over the years,” he says, “but there’s a difference between the by-the-kilo stores popping up everywhere, which sell basic, recent secondhand clothes, and shops like mine, whose quality items can go back to 1900.”

The two key streets to explore are the parallel Rue Blaes and Rue Haute. Don’t miss Passage 125, an ancient textile warehouse that has been transformed into a labyrinthine antiques emporium selling everything from jewellery and stained glass to crystal chandeliers and rare arms. Meanwhile, Haute Antiques is housed in the old art nouveau Rialto cinema, where 25 collectors tempt shoppers with high-quality pieces, from furniture to lighting.

Don’t miss

The vibrant heart of the neighbourhood is the Marolle’s monster Jeu de Balle flea market, open 365 days of the year but with the best bargains on Sundays. At midday, head to Centro Cabraliego, a social club for generations of immigrants from Spain’s Asturias, where local people cook up a copious lunch of chorizo, ribs and calamari with wine or cider for under €20. Walk over to the Place Brueghel, on Rue de l’Epée, where a free glass lift whisks you up to the entrance of the landmark Palace of Justice, with panoramic views over Brussels. Finish off with a walk down Rue des Tanneurs, past the Palais du Vin, now an organic food market, till you arrive at the stately romanesque Notre-Dame de la Chapelle church, where the 16th-century painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder is buried.

Where to stay

On bustling Rue Haute, La Maison Haute is a chic boutique place with room-only doubles from €120. A budget alternative at the edge of the Marolles is Ibis Brussels, with spacious doubles from around €90, right opposite the Eurostar station.

The meal at Les Brigittines was provided by Visit Brussels

BRUSSELS — The European Parliament voted Thursday to approve a trade deal between Washington and Brussels but with amendments added to protect European interests should the United States fail to hold up its end of the bargain.

The deal was negotiated last July in Turnberry, Scotland, by President Trump and European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. It set a 15% tariff on most goods in an effort to stave off far higher import duties on both sides that might have sent shock waves through economies around the globe.

New language now says that the deal can be suspended if Washington “undermined the objectives of the deal, discriminated against EU economic operators, threatened member states’ territorial integrity, foreign and defence policies, or engaged in economic coercion.”

That clause was forged because of the tensions over Greenland, said Bernd Lange, a German lawmaker and head of the EU’s parliamentary trade committee.

Trump drew widespread condemnation across the 27-nation bloc by threatening to take control of Greenland, a semiautonomous territory of Denmark. He has backed away from the threat, at least for now.

“If this would happen again, then immediately the tariffs would be installed,” he said at a news conference after lawmakers voted. He said the protective modifications were “weatherproofing” the Turnberry deal.

The deal will now be further negotiated by EU trade representatives Maroš Šefčovič and his U.S. counterpart Jamieson Greer, who are meeting Friday on the sidelines of the World Trade Organization meeting in Yaoundé, Cameroon.

“We need the EU-U.S. deal in force on both sides — delivering real certainty for EU businesses and showing that genuine partnership gets results,” Šefčovič said after the vote in Brussels.

There were formally two votes to introduce clauses to the deal. One passed 417-154 and the other 437-144 with dozens of abstentions each.

The U.S. Ambassador to the EU Andrew Pudzer said the vote would provide “stability and predictability” for U.S. and EU businesses and drive economic growth. “We encourage all parties to think to the future and the importance of unleashing opportunities for businesses on both sides of the Atlantic,” he said.

Malte Lohan, CEO of American Chamber of Commerce to the European Union, said the vote is “the right signal for businesses that have been stuck in limbo over the past year” and “a necessary step towards a more predictable transatlantic marketplace.”

Croatian lawmaker Željana Zovko said that despite the trade spat between Brussels and Washington, trade across the Atlantic had grown over the past year. “This resilience proves the trans-Atlantic trade works, and if it works, we should strengthen it, not hold it back.”

McNeil writes for the Associated Press.

EU lawmakers in Brussels are worried that the bloc is drifting into the crosshairs of US domestic politics, as the White House launched new trade investigations into EU goods accusing the European Union is “implementing close to zero” of trade commitments.

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Next week could prove decisive for the EU–US trade deal struck last summer.

Washington has stepped up pressure on the EU in recent days to implement the agreement cut last summer cut between the head of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen and President Donald Trump, tripling tariffs on the EU.

Still, MEPs have kept the implementation process, which also includes investment pledges from the Europeans in the US, frozen, seeking clarity after the Supreme Court of the United States ruled in February that US tariffs imposed in 2025 were illegal.

The fate of the deal remains uncertain after the White House launched new investigations into EU products this week that could lead to tariffs exceeding the 15% ceiling agreed under the pact.

“It is domestic politics and the worst-case scenario has happened: we got involved,” Croatian MEP Željana Zovko, lead negotiator for the European People’s Party, told Euronews.

She added: “We were waiting for the Supreme Court’s decision but now of course this administration will do its utmost to do it its own way.”

In the days following the court’s ruling, the US administration has looked for new legal grounds for tariffs and invoked Section 122 to impose fresh duties of 10% on EU goods, on top of the 4.8% tariffs already in place under most-favored nation regime.

The provision allows temporary duties for a maximum of 150 days, after which the US Congress would need to agree an extension. The Supreme Court suggested in its initial ruling that the President had exceeded his powers under emergency grounds.

As Washington looks for a way to make the tariff salvo permanent, it is also increasing the pressure on allies by opening new investigations into trading partners including the EU over alleged unfair trade practices. China and India were also targeted.

The probes could pave the way for tariffs above the 15% ceiling agreed in the deal struck in July 2025 by Ursula von der Leyen and Donald Trump in Turnberry, Scotland.

Next week will be pivotal for the EU-US deal

“Now uncertainty is increasing even more for our businesses,” Zovko said.

Since the court ruling, the EU has sought clarity from Washington on whether the Turnberry agreement signed last year still stands or has been broken.

US officials assured EU trade chief Maroš Šefčovič they would stick to the deal, though they have not detailed how the 10% tariffs after the court ruling will be replaced in the long-term. In return, the US expects the EU to implement the agreement fully and quickly.

US Trade Representative Jamieson Greer raised the temperature on Wednesday, lashing at the Europeans on the basis that “the EU has done approximately zero percent of what they were supposed to do for their trade deal with us.”

This week’s investigations should be taken seriously, German MEP Bernd Lange (S&D) told Euronews, despite the erratic moves by the US administration since the court ruling.

“Section 301 will allow the US to differentiate between countries and therefore add pressure to each of them,” he said.

Next week could be pivotal for the EU–US trade deal.

Italian MEP Brando Benifei (S&D) will travel to Washington hoping to meet Greer. He may be joined by Lange, the chair of the EU trade committee, on Monday although a decision has not been made yet.

The trip comes as negotiators in the European Parliament must decide whether to resume work on the agreement or postpone the vote once more. A vote is required to cut EU duties on US goods to zero, as foreseen in the Turnberry deal.

But political groups remain divided.

“When I read what the socialists are saying, I’m losing hope that we will have a vote, despite reassurance given by Iratxe García Pérez [Spanish MEP, chair of the S&D] and Bernd Lange,” a source at the EPP told Euronews.

Benifei said the EU needs a clear political signal from Washington that it will stick to the deal, otherwise “there is no way we can vote on the file.”