bath

The town has been named one of the best places to live in the UK thanks to its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops and easy access to London,

In recent years, I’ve made it my personal quest to discover towns and villages right on my doorstep. I’m lucky enough to call Kent home – also dubbed the Garden of England – which means I’m absolutely spoilt for choice when it comes to stunning towns and villages. One town that keeps pulling me back is Royal Tunbridge Wells. My most recent trip was my third visit to the town – and it certainly lived up to expectations.

Located just 30 miles from London, this spa town has become a go-to location for commuters and boasts a rich history stretching back to the Iron Age. Its famous chalybeate spring transformed it into a fashionable retreat during the Restoration era, attracting visitors seeking its healing waters and the legendary Pantiles. Today, tourists still pour in, lured by the Pantiles – a stunning Georgian colonnade sitting at the town’s centre – alongside its boutiques, quirky cafes, restaurants, bars, and the chalybeate spring.

What really makes the town stand out is its exceptional ‘Royal’ title, a distinction held by just three towns in England. King Edward VII granted the prefix in 1909 to acknowledge its enduring appeal with the Royal Family.

With all this going for it, it’s little surprise Tunbridge Wells was crowned one of the best places to live in the UK for 2026 by Muddy Stilettos.

The town earned praise for its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops, easy access to London, and, naturally, the legendary Pantiles.

The publication stated: “Forget those letter-writing retired colonels: this spa town now pulls in well-families chasing a best-of-both-worlds commuter lifestyle. With yoga studios, art galleries galore and the Garden of England’s apple orchards on the doorstep, this town has it all.”

The town also secured 10th place in the UK in last year’s Better Lives Index.

Compiled by the International Longevity Centre, the index assessed 359 UK districts across nine measures: gross domestic household income, life expectancy at birth and at 65, economic activity for over-16s, inactivity among 50 to 64-year-olds, pollution density, child poverty rate, avoidable mortality, and the ratio of house prices to earnings.

Despite somewhat changeable weather during my visit, I made the most of the driest day to wander through the town centre and soak up the atmosphere.

For the rest of my trip, I unwound at The Spa Hotel – a historic sanctuary nestled within 14 acres of beautiful grounds just beyond the town centre.

This was our third visit to the hotel, which has firmly established itself as a personal favourite, owing to its tranquil spa facilities, mouth-watering dining options, welcoming staff and luxurious rooms.

On this occasion, I was fortunate enough to wander the grounds, uncovering breathtaking countryside vistas, a picturesque pond and spring flowers just waiting to burst into bloom.

It comes as little surprise that the hotel has become a sought-after wedding venue, something we witnessed first-hand on the second day of our stay.

The stunning hotel boasts a restaurant and bar, a heated indoor pool, a gym, steam room, sauna, and a brand-new Wellness Suite.

So, should the weather prove unsuitable for venturing into town, there’s still a wealth of activities to enjoy within the hotel itself. On earlier visits, snow and thunderstorms had confined us indoors for entire weekends, yet with room service, superb spa amenities and a cosy bar, being kept inside felt far from a hardship.

Despite feeling delightfully secluded in the countryside, the hotel is just a stone’s throw from the town centre. A short five-minute drive brings you into town, with ample parking on hand. Alternatively, you can take a leisurely 20-minute stroll downhill, or, as we opted to do, catch a local bus from right outside the hotel entrance.

The town itself ranks among the most stunning I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. The Pantiles are a particular highlight — a collonaded walkway that transports you back in time, with the majority of its buildings dating from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Many of the shops and cafes in the Pantiles are independent, with Collared, a dog accessory and gift shop; Trevor Mottram, a kitchenware shop; and the cosy cafe Eggs Eleven among my top picks.

During this trip, we finally sampled the celebrated water from the chalybeate spring. At the far end of the Pantiles, a vending machine dispenses glass bottles of this distinctive, iron-rich mineral water, renowned for its unique flavour.

Uncovered by Lord North in 1606, the mineral spring rapidly earned a reputation for its extraordinary healing properties, thought to remedy everything from ailments and infertility to hangovers and obesity.

In 1629, the Queen of England drank the spring water and shortly afterwards gave birth to Charles II, who was said to owe his life to the famous waters. The spring also drew other royals, including James I, Queen Anne, and Queen Victoria.

The water itself tasted remarkably pure – considerably better than tap or many bottled waters, without any of the usual chemical aftertaste. The glass bottles also make delightful keepsakes, ideal for reusing as vases or candleholders.

The remainder of the day I spent wandering around the town, browsing shops and enjoying the sunshine. If you’re eager to shop, Tunbridge Wells has plenty on offer, from independent boutiques to familiar brands like Anthropologie, Space NK, LUSH and Fenwick, many of which are located in the town’s shopping centre, Royal Victoria Place.

After spending the day browsing the shops, we headed to Roddy Burger, a local independent eatery renowned for its freshly prepared food. Arriving among the first customers, we ordered a succulent chicken burger, a halloumi burger, chips, and beer-battered pickles. Both burgers were exceptional, washed down with a non-alcoholic lager for me and an ale for my husband. It was my first experience of battered pickles, and I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious they were – the salty, sharp pickle worked brilliantly with the crispy batter.

The team were genuinely lovely, and the restaurant’s quirky interior and lively music created a chilled, inviting atmosphere. If you’re after a laid-back dinner venue, I’d absolutely recommend popping in.

While I didn’t manage to visit Halstead Bakery on this occasion, I’ve only ever heard glowing reports about it. Situated on the same road as Roddy Burger, this independent bakery is celebrated for its handcrafted bread, pastries, and baked treats made using local, seasonal produce. It holds an impressive 4.8 out of 5 rating on Google, with customers singing its praises for “incredible pastries and great coffee.”

One review states: “Delicious fresh bakes with innovative and vibrant flavour combinations. We’ve had so many different things from this bakery – the croissants are crispy, puffy and cooked to perfection; their speciality scones are not to be missed; and the cardamom buns are fragrant and moist. Friendly atmosphere and helpful staff. Highly recommend!”

I’ve also popped into Fine Grind on the High Street during a previous trip, a delightful coffee shop that boasts it has served “the best brews in town for 13 years,” according to its Instagram. The coffee is truly outstanding, particularly when enjoyed alongside one of their cakes or pastries. A word of warning: it becomes extremely busy at weekends!

One of the greatest advantages of visiting Tunbridge Wells is its excellent transport links. Regular buses operate in and out of the town centre, while trains can reach London in roughly 45 minutes. Although my journey from the Kent coast takes over two hours, those travelling from Canterbury, Ashford, or Maidstone can arrive in just 60 to 90 minutes, depending on their chosen route.

The local taxi services in Tunbridge Wells are also excellent, though Uber operates in the area too if you’ve got the app.

While I thoroughly enjoy my visits to Tunbridge Wells, one aspect consistently lets it down: the general reception of locals. Although hotel and hospitality workers are invariably pleasant and accommodating, I discovered the atmosphere around town to be rather less welcoming. People frequently barged past without apologising or acknowledging when I held doors open, which left me feeling somewhat unwelcome.

Hailing from a small town, I’m accustomed to a neighbourly environment; people smile while passing and chat at the till. Perhaps I’m simply unaccustomed to the more distant character of larger towns, where residents are less acquainted with each other.

If you’re thinking about a laid-back staycation this summer, Royal Tunbridge Wells is a brilliant option — ideal for browsing shops, exploring historic sights, or just taking it easy without venturing far. Just bear in mind, you might not receive the warmest welcome from residents…

NEWLYWED model Roxy Horner soaks up the romance during her honeymoon on the Orient Express.

The 34-year-old took a bath as she and comedian hubby Jack Whitehall, 37, travelled from Venice to Paris.

Posting snaps of the train and dining carriage, Roxy wrote online: “Having a bath on a train is so romantic.”

The couple, who are parents to Elsie, two, married at a lavish ceremony in the Cotswolds last month.

We revealed earlier this month how Roxy wowed onlookers with her dazzling diamond wedding rings after marrying Jack Whitehall.

Mum-of-one Roxy showed off her multi-layered rocks while on a night out with Laura Whitmore at the launch of blow-dry specialist Duck & Dry at The Whiteley in Notting Hill.

rock on

Roxy Horner flashes HUGE diamond wedding rings after marrying Jack Whitehall

BRIDAL ERA

Roxy Horner strips to bridal underwear in unseen snaps from wedding

The show-stopping multi-stone ring boasts a huge pear-shaped diamond sat next to a white gold oval eternity diamond ring, thought to cost around £13,300.

The 34-year-old looked stunning in a casual combo of flared diamante jeans, a nude crop top and leather jacket as she posed with the former Love Island presenter.

With her long blonde hair down in waves, she accessorised with red lips, tanned heels and the eye-popping jewellery.

Pregnant Laura matched her look in a leather jacket and red lipstick with her hair slicked back.

A magnificent medieval cathedral in Somerset

“So this is where Officer Nick Angel [Simon Pegg] chased that swan.” As a fan of Hot Fuzz, I was excited to explore the cathedral city of Wells in Somerset, where much of the film was shot. This charming, compact and walkable city is awash with medieval architecture and magnificent buildings, such as the gothic cathedral, with one of the oldest working clocks in the UK (late 14th century) and the Bishop’s Palace and Gardens. Within easy reach of the Mendip Hills, Cheddar Gorge and the Wookey Hole Caves, Wells makes for a low-key alternative to tourist-soaked Bath.
Alison

Wild camping in the west Highlands

The Ardnamurchan peninsula, which includes the most westerly point in mainland Britain at Corrachadh Mòr, is stunning. With my partner, I spent a night wild camping by the shell-sand beach at Sanna Bay, surrounded by the machair grassland and wildflowers. It was absolutely stunning. We walked to Ardnamurchan lighthouse, spotted some dolphins, and swam in the sea in cold but crystal clear waters. The simplicity of the trip and not having to check in at any accommodation was a plus. I would recommend it to everybody.
Jox

Cinematic light and seabirds in East Lothian

North Berwick in East Lothian always feels like a proper holiday without needing a passport. Take the early train, walk straight down to the beach, then continue past the harbour towards the Scottish Seabird Centre, where the light over the Firth of Forth changes by the minute. If the tide is out, the views are cinematic with the sand stretching so wide. On clear early evenings Bass Rock turns gold and you wonder how somewhere so close to Edinburgh can still feel quietly remote.
Michelle

Rock-pooling and picnics in Devon

I visited Beer in east Devon last summer with three friends, all of us women in our 40s, and our six children aged between four and 11. It couldn’t have been a better choice. We stayed at the lovely large YHA hostel, which was relaxed, welcoming and ideal for families. The kids were charmed by the stream running through the village and spent hours rock-pooling on the beach, discovering tiny crabs and sea anemones. We also enjoyed the clifftop walk to Seaton with its incredible views. Don’t miss Woozie’s Deli for fresh treats – perfect for picnics by the sea.
Tara

A cycling tour of the Northumberland coast

We cycled the Northumberland coast from Newcastle to Berwick over four days. We visited Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh, two of the most impressive castles in the country, the mining museum at Woodhorn and the RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh, and swam from huge, empty beaches. Cycling over the causeway to Lindisfarne was the highlight, an incredible place to visit and awesome watching the road disappear under the sea (after we’d made it back to the mainland).
Ian

Ravenspoint community hostel on Loch Èireasort, south of Stornoway and home to nesting sea eagles and sea otters, feels remote even by Outer Hebridean standards. I shared the hostel kitchen with a father and daughter cycling the Hebridean Way, and a psychiatrist who seemed genuinely quite unsettled by the vastness of the landscape stretching all around. The hostel has a rich history – it is owned by the Co-Chomunn na Pairc, one of the original community co-operatives established in the 1970s, and the profits from it, the shop and tea rooms all go back into keeping vital services open for visitors and locals alike year-round.
Eleanor

Happy days in West Yorkshire’s Happy Valley

Sharing my obsession with Happy Valley, my teenage son agreed to a long weekend in Hebden Bridge. Armed with a list of filming locations, we scouted around Sowerby Bridge and Hebden, getting a buzz from the scenes we recognised. We climbed up to Heptonstall to visit Sylvia Plath’s grave, caught a film at the independent Picture House, and hiked along the river and on to the moors beyond Hardcastle Crags. An early morning run along the canal and the best pizza in town topped it off.
Lucy

Cliffs, castles and chips in Ayrshire

Ayrshire is beautiful, bucolic, full of family-friendly activities and often overlooked by Munro-baggers heading north to the Highlands. It has excellent local produce, coastal splendour and bountiful historic attractions. Start at Dumfries House with its marvellous gardens, enormous treetop adventure area and interactive water play (much of it free!). Visit the ruins of clifftop Dunure Castle, then stroll along the sandy Croy Bay to Culzean Castle, with its own gardens, play area and spectacular views of Arran and Ailsa Craig. Then pootle up to the Coo Shed for fab local ice-creams, before rounding off your day with some outstanding fish and chips from the Wee Hurrie on Troon harbour.
Dan Ashman

A village idyll in Snowdonia

My wife and I went for a weekend break in Trefriw on the River Crafnant in north Wales. It’s a peaceful village with lively pubs. We stayed at the Fairy Falls hotel, a perfect base for exploring the surrounding river and mountain walks, and for viewing the cascades.
Seamus

Winning tip: Hadrian’s Wall by bus and train

Exploring the Hadrian’s Wall area stands out for us among our UK trips, not only for the places we visited but also because we travelled by train, bus and on foot. This meant the holiday began once we’d boarded the first train, not just once we’d arrived at our accommodation. We stayed at the Sill youth hostel, arriving there using the AD122 bus from Hexham station. This bus stops at several Roman sites between Hexham and Haltwhistle – we used it to visit Housesteads, “Britain’s most complete Roman fort”. Another highlight was the Vindolanda fort and museum around a mile and a half from the Sill.
Sharon Pinner

SIMON Cowell has admitted spending a whopping £3M on a “dancing vaginas” birthday party and shelling out £2K to have a bath.

The Britain’s Got Talent judge, 66, has opened up about some of the wild ways he has splashed his cash over the years.

Simon, who has made a fortune from TV talent shows and also through bands like One Direction, has been candidly opening up about how he’s spent his enormous wealth over the years.

To launch his brand new podcast Tales from the Celebrity Trenches, Holy Moly founder Jamie East invited The X Factor creator onto his very first episode.

As the two got talking Simon didn’t hold back with his answers, and when asked if he once spent £3M on a birthday party featuring burlesque dancing vaginas, he coolly replied: “Absolutely correct. Those days are over., by the way.

“I didn’t know it was going to cost that much, I really didn’t.

READ MORE ON SIMON COWELL

sin-waita

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SPECIAL ACT

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“I think I’m still paying for it now. I honestly couldn’t believe it”

It was then revealed that the party was for his 50th birthday, which turned out to be quite the wild bash.

“I wish I could remember it. I honestly can’t. I remember taking, I think, half a Xanax before that because I was so anxious,” Simon revealed.

Jamie then asked him about the time he once paid £2,000 to check into the London Mandarin Oriental to take a bath because his was broken.

“I might have done that. Do you know, what I p***ed away so much money in hindsight. I do think about that, because my God, two grand on a bath?” Simon said.

“I’m a bit more cautious now, I think because I didn’t have a lot of money to start with.

“So when I started to make a lot of money, I’m like, ‘wow, this is fantastic’.

“And now I’m like, ‘God, why did I spend all that money?’ You know, all those lists, I’m not worth anywhere near that.”

Meanwhile, these days Simon is loved-up with long-term partner Lauren Silverman, 48, who he shares son Eric, 10, with.

But before her, he was known for having a string of famous beauties on his arm.

Just last month, The Sun revealed that his ex, Baywatch model Carmen Electra, and his fellow American Idol judge Paula Abdul are both working on memoirs AND are set to feature their relationships with the music mogul.

A Los Angeles literary agent said: “Paula and Carmen are strong women and they won’t hold back when it comes to their memoirs.

“Carmen dated Simon, so knows what he is like when the cameras stop rolling.

“Rumours have swirled for years about Paula and Simon.

“They had undeniable chemistry on American Idol and now Paula has the chance to put the record straight.”

Carmen and Simon were first linked in 2012 when she briefly starred as a guest judge on ITV show Britain’s Got Talent.

The pair were spotted on a series of dinner dates.

Speaking about Carmen in December 2012, Simon said: “She’s not my girlfriend. We’re people who date. She’s adorable, isn’t she?”

Paula had starred on American Idol with Simon for eight seasons between 2002 and 2009.

The pair, who also appear­ed together on The X Factor USA, were known for their chemistry on the shows.

Bath: Carreras; Cokanasiga, Lawrence, Ojomoh, Arundell; Russell, Carr-Smith; Kirk, Dunn, Sela; Richards, Ewels (c), Hill, Pepper, Barbeary.

Replacements: Frost, Van Wyk, Du Toit, Molony, Bayliss, Van der Linde, Hennessey, Reid.

Harlequins: Smith; David, Kerr, Bradley, Murley; J. Evans, Friday; Hobson, Turner, Jones; Cunningham-South, Treadwell, Petti, Kenningham, Dombrandt (c)

Replacements: Musk, Clarke, Streeter, Williams, Carr, W. Evans, Townsend, Anderson.

Referee: Sara Cox

It was 6.30am, the cockcrow slot at Jubilee Park lido, and still not quite light. I hadn’t wanted to come this early – it was the only time I’d been able to book. But as I slid into the pool – heated to a delicious 29C – I realised it was a gift. Vapours rose dreamily into cool air laced with owl hoots and the whiff of dewy blooms, and I swam into a sunrise that became more vivid with every stroke. A man in the next lane paused to admire the reddening dawn too; he was hungover, he said, but had come to do his morning lengths nonetheless. A cure of sorts.

Bath, Harrogate, Buxton – Woodhall? This Lincolnshire village isn’t one of Britain’s headline spa towns. Most probably don’t know where it is – 18 miles (29km east of Lincoln, for the record. But at the turn of the 20th century, Woodhall Spa was among the most fashionable places to be seen, to be healed.

Those wellness-seekers didn’t come, as I had, for the 90-year-old lido (open April to November). They came for the springs. In 1821, a hopeful entrepreneur sank a mine shaft here, prospecting for coal. He discovered water instead, which was found to be high in iodine and bromine, thought to be beneficial for everything from rheumatoid arthritis to gout. The first proper bath house was built in 1838; trains arrived in 1855. Woodhall Spa was on the map.

The village’s Edwardian heyday is long gone. The railway has closed, the baths are no longer in use – the original building is now a beauty salon. But Woodhall Spa still has a deeply restorative feel. With its broad, leafy avenues, red-brick and half-timber villas, protective shroud of trees, numerous cafes and delis, and promise of simple, bygone pleasures, it’s like a safety blanket; a place to escape the world’s horrors for a few days.

Tina Delaney, a director at Woodhall’s Cottage Museum, agrees. She came here on holiday from Bedford six years ago and ended up staying: “My husband describes it as moving 100 miles north, 80 years back in time.”

The little museum occupies a rare 19th-century prefab of yellow corrugated iron and documents Woodhall’s history, from its early fortunes to its part in the second world war. The 1st Airlanding Brigade trained here for Operation Market Garden, the ill-fated plan to seize bridges in the occupied Netherlands; of the 2,500 men who left, fewer than 500 returned. Many became prisoners of war. Also, Squadron 617 – the Dambusters – were briefly stationed at RAF Woodhall Spa; the officers’ mess was in the grandiose mock-Tudor Petwood Hotel. I wandered there after the museum and sat on the terrace, looking out across the elegant gardens with a half of Petwood Bomber ale.

While officers hung out at the hotel, lower ranks frequented the Kinema in the Woods. This late-19th-century sports pavilion was converted into a cinema in 1922 and nicknamed the “flicks in the sticks” by airmen, who were shown top-secret reconnaissance films here. It is now a cinephile’s delight. The lobby is all rich reds and movie memorabilia, with separate counters for popcorn and ices. In screen one, deep-plush seats face a stage through which a Compton organ sometimes rises, played by the resident organist – but sadly not for my showing. There was an intermission, though, during which I devoured local-made Dennetts’ apple pie ice-cream.

When I emerged the owls were hooting again and I headed back to Bainland, an 18-hectare (45-acre) holiday park of reclaimed-timber lodges on the edge of the village, large but nicely done. My lodge was smart and cosy, set on a teeny lake. The next morning I breakfasted outside, listening to acorns smack the decking, watching mallards skim through perfectly reflected trees.

I was in no rush. My plan was to borrow one of Bainland’s bikes and make the most of Lincolnshire’s flatness. First, I headed north-east. The railway, so key to Woodhall’s former prosperity, may be defunct but its old trackbed forms part of the off-road Spa Trail, an easy ride (around three miles) to Horncastle, via ancient woods and excellent sculptures: there are steel Viking ships and oversized plants, nodding to Sir Joseph Banks, the botanist on Captain Cook’s first Endeavour expedition, who grew up near Horncastle. Banks also brought the canal to Horncastle, transforming it from backwater to busy market town. The canal, which I followed briefly, is quiet and unnavigable now; these days, the town’s main trade is antique and secondhand stores. I browsed around, wishing I had a bicycle basket to load with dog-eared books and comedy toby jugs.

I also cycled the Water Rail Way, a mostly traffic-free route following the former Lincoln to Boston Railway, by the River Witham. In the middle ages, Lincolnshire had one of England’s greatest densities of monastic houses – abbey-averse Henry VIII called it “the most brute and beastly shire” – and the greatest concentration was in the Witham valley. I started at one, Kirkstead Abbey, where the merest sliver remains, and rode northward for six miles to another, in Bardney, where there was even less. But it was a joyful pedal, along the river, fenlands spreading either side, dotted with more sculptures, swans and defunct stations that now serve only walkers and cyclists.

Finally, I followed the same route a few miles south to Tattershall, home to the enormous, light-flooded Collegiate Church of Holy Trinity and one of England’s first brick-built castles. My timing was good, arriving just as National Trust guide Nigel was starting a tour of the castle’s moated 33.5 metre-high Great Tower. It was constructed in the 15th century by Ralph, third Baron Cromwell, treasurer of England, who wanted a show-off home befitting his self-importance. Nigel described it as “ eight million bricks and a fashion statement” – exposed brick was avant garde at the time.

We climbed up the storeys, from the vaulted basement buttery (used as a prison during the civil war) to the turreted roof. A superlative lookout – and power move – for Cromwell, it’s still the highest point around; Lincoln Cathedral’s gargantuan towers, visible when it’s clear, are 18 miles away. I looked north towards Woodhall Spa, too flat to be perceptible amid the fuzz of green, hidden despite being so close. Indeed, the ideal spot to hide away.

The trip was provided by Bainland Lodge Retreats, which has lodges from £649 for four nights (sleeping two) and bike hire from £15pp. For more information see visitlincolnshire.com