autumn

The autumn internationals always have great drama and storylines but, with the Rugby World Cup draw following hot on the heels of this year’s fixtures, there was an added layer of intrigue in 2025 as the best of the northern and southern hemispheres collided.

Reigning world champions South Africa solidified their number one status with a 100% record so far, albeit with a trip to Cardiff still to come, although few would bet against them rounding out their year with another victory.

Meanwhile, England enjoyed the most profitable autumn of the Six Nations sides, winning all four of their matches to extend their winning run to 11 and rise to third in the world rankings.

They were almost pipped to the post in their final outing by a resurgent Argentina however, who came close to spoiling the party and ending their European tour with a perfect record.

For the rest of the Six Nations and Rugby Championship sides, the autumn was a mixed bag, ‘could do better’ being the key note on the report cards for the majority, particularly Australia – who went winless on their European tour for the first time in 67 years.

That hasn’t stopped the Rugby Championship sides taking the bragging rights though, winning eight of their 14 matches against Six Nations teams so far this month.

Throughout those games there were some incredible individual performances and, using the unique Opta Index – which objectively scores each player’s performances in each game, we can identify which players really shone this autumn, making their way into our XV as a result.

We go through each selection and back up their inclusion with some key statistics.

The village of Merthyr Mawr, in the Vale of Glamorgan, Wales, is like stepping into a fairytale, with its thatched cottages, babbling brooks and stunning historical sites

Tucked away in the lush, rolling hills of Vale of Glamorgan, the quaint village of Merthyr Mawr is a real-life fairytale come to life. With its charming thatched cottages and awe-inspiring historical sites, it’s more akin to a Cotswolds hamlet than a location just a quick ten-minute drive from Bridgend.

Despite being home to a mere 300 residents and lacking a high street, this picture-perfect Welsh village has made its mark on the silver screen. Its nearby dunes were used as a filming location for the 1962 classic Lawrence of Arabia, according to Discover Britain. A gently babbling brook meanders through ancient woodland, while Shire horses graze in the verdant fields. And the best part? This hidden treasure is often devoid of crowds. The village’s name, Merthyr Mawr, originates from Merthyr Mymor or Myfor, a Welsh Saint believed to have met his end on these very grounds, reports Wales Online.

Archaeological research over the years has traced the village’s roots back thousands of years, even identifying it as a hub of prehistoric activity. Artefacts ranging from Stone Age flints to Bronze Age burial sites have been discovered here. Beyond the dark ages, visitors can marvel at Roman roads that sit alongside Victorian stonework. At the heart of the village lies the Merthyr Mawr Estate. This 19th-century mansion was constructed by landed gentry Sir John Nicholl.

To this day, it remains a private residence with the majority of the village and surrounding property owned by those who live there. This means that properties in the village are highly sought after as they seldom come up for sale and have often been in the family for generations. The best way to explore Merthyr Mawr is on foot – to fully appreciate the unique views and tranquil atmosphere. You can stroll past the village greens and the tennis club towards St Teilo’s Church.

Its graveyard is awash with vibrant flowers in the spring and summer months. During the day, sunlight streams through the intricate stained-glass windows. Believed to be built on the site of a structure that predates the 19th century, the church also houses a small collection of inscribed medieval stones from the 5th century. A ten-minute walk from the church will lead you to Ogmore Castle.

Nestled next to the Ewenny River, you can access its robust stone walls by stepping across ancient stepping stones used by the castle’s princess, who, according to legend, used them to meet her lover on a neighbouring bank of land. This 12th-century keep once protected the Norman-held lands of Glamorgan. Further along, you’ll find Candleston Castle, a later 14th-century manor house, fortified for the de Cantaloupe family.

If you’ve had your fill of culture and fancy some fun, there’s an outdoor sauna tucked away in the woods where you can unwind. This sauna is a traditional Lithuanian spot, meaning it uses a wood-fire to heat its hot tubs. Venture along the coastal path to the Merthyr Mawr Warren National Nature Reserve and you’ll discover something truly unique – a ‘Sahara Desert’ that featured in Lawrence of Arabia. After your enchanting adventure, if you’re feeling peckish, make your way to Ogmore village. Here, Cobbles Kitchen serves up a mouth-watering roast. To round off your day, pop into the Pelican Inn for a cosy pint by the fireside.

A part in South Devon has been named the “most relaxing UK location” to visit in autumn – and it’s easy to see why

Bigbury-on-Sea, a coastal village in South Devon, has been lauded for its ‘stunning’ beach and named one of the top UK spots for autumn getaways. Nestled in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this tranquil haven is a hit with walkers, birdwatchers, watersport enthusiasts, and families seeking a peaceful retreat to a sandy sanctuary.

In fact, it’s so highly regarded that it’s been dubbed the “most relaxing UK location” for a visit during the chillier months. The accolade comes courtesy of Parkdean Resorts, which described the “tranquil village” as the perfect spot for a “calming autumn staycation”.

The holiday firm praised the locale, saying: “This coastal gem offers picturesque views, serene walking trails, and tranquil shores.

“Its peaceful atmosphere, combined with its natural beauty, makes it an ideal escape for those looking to unwind and reconnect with nature this autumn.”

Situated within the South Devon National Landscape, Bigbury-On-Sea is renowned for its wildlife and natural splendour.

Just a stone’s throw from the mainland lies the iconic Burgh Island, accessible via a sandy pathway when the tide is low.

However, when the tide rolls in, the sea engulfs the causeway, leaving island visitors with the option of returning to shore by sea tractor or boat, reports the Express.

The beach also draws in sports lovers, offering prime conditions for windsurfing and paddleboarding. With amenities such as a cafe, public toilets, and parking available, it’s no wonder the beach is a family favourite too.

Canines are permitted on the main stretch of sand from October through to May, whilst they can frolic on the beach west of the causeway throughout the entire year.

For those who fancy a stroll, numerous coastal rambles begin near the shoreline and provide breathtaking vistas of the dramatic cliffs and rugged coastline.

One holidaymaker penned on TripAdvisor : “Bigbury-on-Sea is a bit of a jackpot if you’re after a dog-friendly beach with food and drink options within stumbling distance.”

Another commented: “My happy place. When the sun is shining this is great. Good sand, great views, good surf, good walk options, great beach barista coffee, and weirdly now has a sauna.”

A third visitor posted: “It’s a dog friend beach with amazing walks, stunning views and a fantastic coffee van which is much needed after a session in the wonderful waves for surfing!”.

Someone else shared: “Such an amazing beach, great views, went across onto the island and the views were amazing from the top.A great day out and also good for dogs because of the lovely sandy beach.”

The 16th-century monks of Évora knew life was short. As if to ram home the point, they decorated an entire chapel with bones dug up from the town’s overflowing cemeteries. The sign outside the Chapel of Bones roughly translates as “We bones in here wait for yours to join us”. Cheerful lot, those monks. Columns, walls, arches – all are covered in skulls, tibias, fibulas, clavicles. Rapt, I can’t stop staring, then start to chuckle when I see skulls curving round frilly frescoes of cherubim on vaulted ceilings, a whimsical touch of chintz among the ghoulishness.

Évora has me in its grip even before I come to the Chapel of Bones. This former royal city of Portuguese kings and capital of the Alentejo region has so many architectural and cultural treasures wedged within its historical centre that it’s often referred to as a living museum. But in a museum, you generally have to keep your voice down: here in Évora, there’s the buzz you get with 11,000 university students roaming round a Unesco world heritage site old town that’s encased within medieval walls.

I feel a pang of envy when I visit the 16th-century College of the Holy Spirit within the University of Évora, which is open to the public willing to pay €3 and take pot luck as to which of the ridiculously beautiful classrooms are free at that moment. My guide, Andre Birken, came to Évora from Germany as an Erasmus student years ago and decided to stay. Chilly northern Germany or laid-back southern Portugal, where even in late October it’s still 23C? Bit of a no-brainer, he tells me. He shows me classrooms decorated in the azulejo tiles for which Portugal is renowned, and where, if the lecture gets dull, you can lose yourself in bucolic blue-and-white scenes.

The ancient Romans, rather than the Greeks, left their mark on Évora in a more monumental style, including an enormous aqueduct that’s one of the first things visitors see as they approach the city. Rising in the centre of the old town are the 14 graceful Corinthian columns of the Roman temple built for emperor Augustus around the 1st century AD (and not, as is commonly assumed, dedicated to the goddess Diana). Surrounding it are buildings that typify most of the architecture here – low-slung, whitewashed, trimmed in ochre and usually sporting wrought-iron balconies. One of them is my hotel, a 15th-century former convent turned into the Pousada del Convento Évora. Every cobbled lane in the old town has this same style of architecture, and I find its uniformity immensely pleasing and harmonious – the white reflecting the sun, the mustardy ochre reminding me of the landscapes of the Alentejo around me, whose brownness is dotted with olive groves and cork forests.

And vineyards, of course, all of them blazing with autumnal colours. Alentejo is one of Portugal’s major wine regions, and its subregion of Baixo Alentejo will be 2026’s European Wine City. About 10 minutes’ drive from Évora is Fitapreta Winery, the brainchild of the innovative Portuguese winemaker António Maçanita and the British viticulturist David Booth. In 2015, Maçanita bought an old fortified manor house that had been in the same family since the 14th century, resurrecting ancient grape varieties, planting new vineyards and sticking to organic production. It’s an idyllic spot for a leisurely wine-tasting, followed by an even more leisurely lunch.

Within the modern winery (its facade clad in cork in a nod to Portugal’s millions of cork forests), André Alves leads me through a tasting of five of the winery’s 22 varieties – all indigenous. A deliciously bone-dry rosé (amusingly named Freshly Squeezed), a fresh-tasting orange-type wine that technically wasn’t an orange wine (A Laranja Mecânica) and the very elegant red Enxarrama all made me wish I had room to stash these in my luggage.

This is only the preamble. Sommelier Francisco Cunha of the winery’s A Cozinha do Paço restaurant then guides me into the part of the manor house that was originally the chapel, and whose galleried upper floor is one of the many atmospheric spots where they serve a seven-course lunch that deserves some serious Michelin attention. Braised fennel and a gorgeous sheep’s milk cheese sauce with turbot, and the famed black pig of the Alentejo paired with a cauliflower cream quenelle were exquisite.

In fact, excellent food is a given in Alentejo. At Enoteca Cartuxa near the Roman temple, they serve their own wines to go with plates of thin buttery slices of cured black pig and chorizo; not to mention the sublime Monte da Vinha sheep’s milk cheese that’s as gooey and as good as an Époisses. The venerable Restaurante Fialho comes out with classic Alentejo dishes done expertly: pigs’ cheeks braised in red wine melt in the mouth, and pork and clams unite in a piquant red peppery stew.

Évora’s food and wine alone make it a worthy holder of the 2027 European Capital of Culture title, even without its architectural marvels. Then again, Évora Cathedral is magnificent, with a typical mishmash of architectural styles, from romanesque and gothic to Renaissance and baroque. From here, it’s almost a rite of passage to walk down the narrow pedestrianised Rua Cinco de Outubro and its souvenir and craft shops wedged into white and yellow houses. Yes, it’s touristy, but delightful nonetheless, with cork handbags and ceramics actually made in Portugal.

This takes me to Évora’s historical heart, Praça do Giraldo, an expansive square filled with cafe terraces, arcaded shops, more of those lovely wrought-iron balconies and a huge 16th-century marble fountain that instantly grabs your attention. This is the spot for lazy and mild autumn mornings with a coffee and a pastel de nata custard tart or a cheesy tart called queijada de Évora, before heading off in search of more of the town’s oddities.

One in particular catches my eye: the row of very cute houses built under the 16th-century aqueduct Água de Prata, in the north-western part of the old town. I need more time here, yet I end up following the tourist trail out of Évora for a morning in the hilltop village of Monsaraz, right by the Spanish border. Here, in this all-white village, where craft boutiques and wine shops attract the tourists, it feels less real, more toytown. It’s all very pretty, and I even get a closer look at the beaches of Alqueva, western Europe’s largest artificial lake, just outside the village.

But I was missing Évora, which manages to hold on to its mellowness despite the growing number of tourists. I recall a chat with my guide, Andre, who mentioned the number of people who take day trips from Lisbon (only 90-odd minutes away) and tour groups who stop for a night or two. But they need four, five days, maybe a week, he says, to get the most out of it. I’m inclined to agree, as these too-short days fly by and I don’t get round to following the nature trails out of the town, or visiting all of the museums, or having another lazy coffee and eating a pastel de nata in the sunshine. Those monks were right: life really is too short.

The trip was provided by Kirker Holidays, which has three-night breaks at Pousada Convento Évora in November from £819pp, including breakfast, car hire and flights, although rail options are also available. Further information: visitalentejo.pt

The Michelin Guide has unveiled a new way of recognising the best hotels in the world, with three properties in Wales named as must-visit destinations

A picturesque lakeside town in Wales has earned the distinction of housing one of the wordl’s best finest hotels. Nestled on the northern shore of Llyn Tegid, a freshwater glacial lake encircled by towering mountains, Bala is home to Palé Hall Hotel, which has been awarded a prestigious MICHELIN Star key for delivering exceptional hospitality experiences.

This innovative recognition system for the world’s best hotels has seen three Welsh establishments, including Palé Hall, featured in The MICHELIN Guide as essential destinations.

On October 8, assessors also unveiled the new “Key” awards, which mirror Michelin Stars for dining establishments by spotlighting the most remarkable hotels across the UK and Ireland. The Great Britain and Ireland collection comprises 14 Three-Key hotels, 43 Two-Key hotels and 82 One-Key hotels, with 19 properties receiving their first awards for 2025.

The esteemed guide recognises three Welsh properties: Palé Hall Hotel in Llandderfel, Penmaenuchaf in Dolgellau, and Grove of Narberth in Narberth. Each has received a One Key distinction.

Palé Hall, a favourite Welsh retreat of mine where I’ve enjoyed several stays, is an 18-room Victorian mansion boasting a rich history and opulent décor. Perfectly situated on the fringes of Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), it offers easy access to walking trails, lakes, and thrilling outdoor activities, reports Wales Online.

This luxurious hotel, part of the Relais and Châteaux, Pride of Britain Hotels and Celebrated Experiences collections, is independently owned by Anthony and Donna Cooper-Barney, who took the reins in 2024.

Arriving at this grand rural hotel is an event in itself. The historic façade, surrounded by gardens, woodland and rolling hills, sets the stage for a memorable stay.

Each spacious room and suite is individually designed with thoughtful touches, and some even boast unique features like a stained-glass roof light, chrome bateaux bath, and antique beds.

Built in 1871 by renowned railway engineer Henry Robertson, the house exudes charm and sophistication. Known for his ambitious railway projects across Wales, Robertson didn’t hold back in creating a home that reflected his accomplishments.

Designed by architect Samuel Pountney Smith, the hall stands as a symbol of elegance and grandeur with its honey-coloured stone and eclectic Jacobean style.

Palé Hall’s place in history isn’t just about its famous guests. During the First World War, it served as a convalescent hospital, offering recovery and respite for wounded soldiers amidst its tranquil surroundings.

Palé Hall has played host to a remarkable roster of guests over the years, including royalty. Queen Victoria was captivated by the house and its picturesque surroundings during her visit in 1889.

The grand bath she used and the ornate bed she slept in are still present in the now aptly named Victorian Room, one of the many opulent suites available for those looking to indulge.

When it comes to food, you’re in excellent hands. For an unforgettable dining experience, a visit to the hotel’s Henry Robertson dining room is essential.

This elegant space, complete with its marble fireplace, ornate plaster ceilings, and chandeliers, provides the perfect backdrop for a fine dining extravaganza.

Palé Hall, an AA three-rosette and Michelin Green Star establishment, prides itself on delivering top-notch cuisine that celebrates the best of British and Welsh produce.

Here’s what the MICHELIN Guide has to say about Palé: “Set on 15 acres of riverside parkland in the Dee Valley, at the edge of the vast and wild Snowdonia National Park, Palé Hall is nothing if not secluded – a situation that only heightens the effect of its high Victorian opulence. Over the course of its colourful history, it’s played host to guests no less eminent than Winston Churchill and Queen Victoria herself. And in its current incarnation as a luxury hotel, it’s among the finest in Great Britain.”

The hotel makes for a stunning base in the picturesque lakeside town of Bala, which boasts a rich heritage stretching back centuries. Founded by Roger de Mortimer of Chirk Castle through Royal Charter around 1310, the town witnessed Henry Tudor’s army pass through in 1485 en route to the Battle of Bosworth.

During the 18th century, Bala thrived as a centre for producing flannel, stockings and gloves. Today, it’s transformed into a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors from across Britain and further afield.

The town holds a remarkable religious heritage, celebrated at the Mary Jones Pilgrim Centre, which chronicles the inspiring tale of a devoted Welsh girl.

Back in 1800, 15 year old Mary Jones completed an extraordinary 26-mile trek from Llanfihangel-y-Pennant to Bala, having saved for six years to purchase a coveted Bible. Her remarkable pilgrimage of faith would go on to spark the creation of the British and Foreign Bible Society.

At the Grade II-listed centre, you can embark on Mary’s pilgrimage and delve into the past with interactive displays, exhibits, and activities.

For those who are fond of trains, the Bala Lake Railway is a must-see. This charming narrow-gauge railway line meanders along the southern shores of Llyn Tegid, offering a captivating hour-long journey from Llanuwchllyn to Bala on a vintage train.

For those who love the great outdoors, Bala is a hub of adventure and offers a variety of activities, such as rafting, fishing, swimming, and sailing.

The National White Water Centre, based in Bala, is a must for adrenaline junkies. Here, water is regularly released from a dam into the River Tryweryn – a steep, fast-flowing mountain river that creates predictable rapids all year round.

Rafting is an adrenaline-fuelled activity where participants tackle fast-flowing rivers in inflatable rafts, typically alongside a small crew and an experienced guide who knows the waterways inside out.

For a safe yet thrilling experience, book a guided rafting session and feel the rush of battling surging rapids alongside your fellow adventurers.

Hiking enthusiasts will find Bala serves as a perfect base for exploring Wales’ most spectacular scenery. Westward lie the imposing peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia), boasting challenging and breathtaking routes, whilst the tranquil Berwyn Mountains eastward deliver a sense of unspoilt wilderness.

Families can enjoy numerous gentle routes, including the Treasure Trail, which accommodates pushchairs and leisurely ambles. Alternatively, follow a designated path for a peaceful lakeside ramble.

History and culture buffs can explore heritage routes such as the Town Trail, the Mary Jones Walk and the Betsi Cadwaladr Trail.

After a day filled with adventure, numerous independent pubs and cafes are on hand for a hearty meal and a pint. The historic Plas Coch Hotel, originally built as a coaching inn around 1780, serves up traditional Welsh dishes using fresh local produce.

FANCY a bit of the royal treatment? I know just the, er, palace.

The Mazagan Beach and Golf Resort on Morocco’s north-west coast is regal in both size and design.

With its dreamy arches and soaring ceilings, traditional Zellij tiling, tree-lined atrium and central courtyards, this five-star wonder is truly fit for royalty.

Inside, everything smells of rich orange blossom. You could get lost here. In fact, you want to.

In the early Noughties, the country’s King Mohammed VI wanted the fortified city of El Jadida, a Unesco World Heritage Site, to be emblazoned on the tourist map.

The Mazagan, from the same luxury Kerzner hotel group as Dubai’s Atlantis, The Palm, has helped him achieve this.

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It is drawing an impressive crowd.

Pop princess Paloma Faith stayed here with her family this year and Moroccan golf star Ayoub Lguirati — winner of the first Arab World Professional Championship in 2023 — often plays the resort’s beachfront course designed by one of the sport’s greats, Gary Player.

Oh, and now I was there.

The 500-room Mazagan is so grand that it is home to one of North Africa’s largest casinos — and one evening, my friends and I joined the guests trying their luck on its 37 gaming tables, 80 roulettes wheels and 370 slot machines.

Good news for risk-takers is that the casino stays open 23 hours a day, so this hotel almost never sleeps.

But as amateurs, we didn’t fancy losing a king’s ransom on Blackjack, so moved on to the 1940s-themed Studio 42 lounge bar next door which is swathed in royal-green velvet drapes.

It has live music at weekends and serves glam cocktails including a homemade rosé liquor and gin concoction for £10, or local beer from £5.50, so is a sure bet for a nightcap or two.

When it came time to hit the hay, my ocean-view room was similar in its grandeur to the rest of the hotel, with traditional metal hanging lanterns, dark-wood furniture, and a bed that could fit a family of four.

Thankfully, 80 per cent of the rooms are connecting, so parents do not have to share with little ’uns.

Even with the balconette doors to my room closed, I could hear the inviting roar of the Atlantic Ocean.

It is safe to swim here — there’s a lifeguard during the day — but you can also rent paddle and bodyboards, or make the most of the swell with surf lessons.

Even in late September, temperatures in El Jadida can reach 30C.

Animal-lovers will enjoy a trip to the Mazagan’s farm, which has goats, cows and chickens. Its beachfront stables are immaculately maintained and the horses and ponies have shiny, glowing coats.

Riding on the beach has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, so on an unusually grey afternoon I climbed on to a palomino-coloured mare called Rosa and headed for the shore.

She trotted along Haouzia Beach, steadily swerving the incoming tide, as I sat back — nay, upright — to enjoy the view. The next day, for something more fast-paced, our group zoomed along the sand — thankfully flat — on quad bikes.

The Mazagan also has laser games, go-karting, paintballing, a 22ft climbing wall, archery, a gym, and pickleball and tennis courts. There are daytime clubs for both kids and teens, too.

But a holiday in Morocco calls for a spot of haggling in the medina — and just the place for that is Casablanca which is the country’s largest, most cosmopolitan city, just an hour’s drive from the hotel.

Built in the early 19th century by the French, the New Medina is smaller and less chaotic than its walled older counterpart but just as authentic.

We find everything from artisan teapots and pottery, leather bags and hand-woven Berber rugs, to stalls piled high with native olives for a fraction of what we would pay at home.

Casablanca also has a striking mix of religious buildings, owing to its colonial history.

Many of these, such as the monumental Hassan II Mosque on the city’s promenade, offer guided tours.

Arabesque carvings

The Hassan II Mosque is a gem — with the world’s second-tallest minaret at 689ft and an elaborately decorated prayer room which can fit 20,000 worshippers.

As is customary if entering a mosque, we removed our shoes.

Our guide then recounted tales of its craftmanship as we quietly admired the stonework, arabesque carvings, Murano glass chandeliers, and titanium doors weighing several tonnes.

For many Brits, though, Casablanca will conjure memories of Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman’s 1942 film — although the wartime classic was actually filmed in Hollywood.

Disappointed to discover Rick’s Cafe from the film did not exist, an American woman opened a replica bar, with grand piano and Moroccan hanging lanterns, in the Old Medina in 2004.

“Of all the gins joints in all the towns”, to quote from the film, this one was well worth walking into for a boozy pit-stop on the way back to the Mazagan.

But, of course, there’s nothing wrong with spending a week simply lazing beside the resort’s lagoon-style pool, having treatments in its award-winning spa and eating and drinking like royalty in its 13 restaurants and bars.

The Market Place evening buffet offers an abundance of local and international dishes, from salads to saffron slow-cooked lamb, shawarma and a wok station.

Or the hotel’s jewel in the crown, the dimly lit Bushra restaurant, serves up Middle Eastern dishes and a live band to its impressively receptive diners.

Sat under gigantic brass chandeliers and dramatic drapes, even the grannies sang and clapped cheerily between mouthfuls of hummus with beef fillet, grilled jumbo shrimps and the most tender slow-cooked lamb.

Just like the flavours, the service is five-star — waiter Wafae deserves mention.

But I had my favourite-ever starter in Sel de Mer.

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The nautically-themed seafood restaurant has an extraordinary signature dish of blue lobster salad with fennel remoulade and mustard jus. At £26, it is not cheap, but lobster never is.

I could get used to living like a queen.