Andalucía

‘The wind is in from Africa / Last night I couldn’t sleep.” Joni Mitchell has ear-wormed her way into my head as my wife and I step out from Zahara de la Sierra into the mountains of Sierra de Grazalema natural park. The Africa bit probably comes from yesterday’s visit to Zahara’s castle museum. Here, high above the tiled terracotta mosaic of village rooftops, we learned how the recapture of this picturesque hill town was a turning point in the Reconquista – the military campaign of the 1400s that saw the Catholics retake southern Spain after seven centuries of Moorish control. As for sleep deprivation, I may just have overdone it on last night’s tapas.

Either way, Africa feels present as we tramp through the countryside of Andalucía, if only in the wildlife. The painted lady butterflies drifting over the flower-spangled verges, the turtle doves purring from the olive groves and the booted eagle drifting overhead: all are summer visitors recently blown in from the great continent to our south.

It’s day two of our White Villages of the Ronda Mountains walking tour, a self-guided seven-day route from On Foot Holidays that explores this alluring corner of southern Spain. We arrived yesterday by bus from Málaga, winding up through the mountains until the whitewashed dwellings of Zahara appeared like teeth in the hillside ahead. This was the first of the week’s four pueblos blancos, all tucked picturesquely into the natural park’s rugged 51,695 hectares (127,740 acres) of limestone peaks and serpentine river valleys.

I’ve walked with On Foot before, so the routine is familiar: water bottles and packed lunches stashed in daypacks, laminated map around neck on lanyard and route app open on phone (belt-and-braces navigation). Best of all, our luggage is already wending its way by taxi to the next destination.

The conditions couldn’t be more perfect. The hillsides burst with blossom and birdsong, the May temperature is a pleasant mid-20s (midsummer out here would be punishing), and the peaks stand proud against the clear blue sky. It’s hard to believe February brought such heavy rains that much of our route was then impassable – and some areas of the park were affected by wildfires later in the summer.

But each month here has its own character. September/October – also prime walking season – sees the chestnuts and cork oak forests turn russet and gold, and the spring irises and orchids replaced by the post-summer bloom of wild asparagus and autumn crocus. Overhead, those booted eagles will be massing for their return journey – along with bee-eaters, honey buzzards and other winged voyagers – back to Africa.

Today’s hike takes us south towards Grazalema: pueblo blanco number two. We skirt a reservoir then wind along a lush river valley, nightingales serenading us from the oleander thickets, and by late morning are rising into the mountains, the vista gaining grandeur as we gain height.

Lunch is in a high meadow, where we unwrap our bocadillos while bees buzz and butterflies busy themselves among the blooms. Afternoon brings a long uphill slog, then finally a cool descent through shady pines to sleepy Grazalema. Another 11 miles (18km) under our belts.

We stay two nights in Grazalema at the Hotel la Mejorana, meeting wild ibex on a mountain circuit high above town, and eating at the cosy Cádiz el Chico restaurant, where a menu featuring partridge and wild boar (though, thankfully, not ibex) reflects the region’s hunting traditions. At night, the cobbled streets are quiet beneath a canopy of stars.

Benaoján, the third of our pueblos blancos, lies about 16 miles to the south-east. We exit Grazalema early in the morning, beneath the Los Peñascos mirador. Roosting griffon vultures line the cliffs like pterodactyls, warming up in the morning sun before, one at a time, flapping off on table-top wings for another day combing the plains.

Our route leads down through the oak woods before rising again into the hills. Here we enter a limestone wonderland, the karst formations sculpted by wind and rain into Henry Moore-like statues. Bee-eaters dart overhead, their liquid chirrups audible long before we lay eyes on them. A passing walker greets us with a cheery “Buen camino!” He’s returning with his father to see the farmhouse where they grew up. We find Dad sitting on a nearby rock, devouring an empanada. They’re the only other walkers we meet all day.

Our hideaway at Benaoján is the Molino del Santo hotel, where we dine beside a chuckling stream on a terrace crowded with potted geraniums. From here, it takes us two hours to hike to the Cueva de la Pileta, an immense cave system discovered in 1905 when a local farmer spotted bats streaming from a fissure in the hillside.

Local guide Ainhoa Bullón leads us down cool, narrow passages into measureless caverns, her thin torch beam illuminating flowstone formations as enormous and elaborate as a Gaudí cathedral – formed, she explains, by the drip-drip of lime at the rate of 1cm every 400 years. The farthest recesses hold exquisite shamanic rock art, some more than 25,000 years old. Ainhoa overflows with information, talking us through the cave’s successive ages of antiquity, from Neanderthal to Neolithic. Most important, she delivers us safely back to the blazing sunshine outside.

Our week ends at Ronda, perched atop the precipitous El Tajo gorge. The celebrated clifftop town seems to beckon us onward like some mythical sky citadel as we tramp our final kilometres towards it. Below the cliffs, we find ourselves back in tourist land, sharing the steep climb to the top with a gaggle of selfie-snapping day trippers.

We make it, slumping at the first available cafe table to lever off boots, fold away the map and order a celebratory cold cerveza. Tomorrow, we catch our bus back to Málaga. For now, a final night lies ahead, with a stirring panorama from our room at the Parador de Ronda and the promise of a slap-up meal down in the old town. Our beers arrive, and any lingering strains of Joni are soon lost to a busker’s volley of flamenco guitar.

The trip was provided by On Foot Holidays. It costs from £985pp for a seven-night self-guided route in Grazalema natural park, ending in Ronda; five-, six- and eight-night routes also available. The walking season is February-May and September-December (April, May, September and October being optimum)

Locals often spot celebrity visitors such as the Mad Max star Mel Gibson and Dangerous Liaisons actor John Malkovich

Jet2Villas is offering holidaymakers a fresh way to explore Spain. The popular airline has added a new region of Spain to its Jet2Villas portfolio – in an area more and more Brits are heading to instead of Andalucia and the Canary Islands.

The area Jet2 is expanding to is popular with Hollywood film celebrities, who have been spotted in local restaurants. Stars such as Mel Gibson and John Malkovich have stayed in the region on more than one occasion – and it’s becoming increasingly popular with Brits as an alternative to spots like the Balearics.

Jet2Villas announced today that it has added Galicia to its programme for the very first time. The northern Spanish region has joined the Jet2Villas portfolio, as the Which? Recommended Provider continues to broaden its villa holiday range in response to increasing demand.

Situated on Spain’s north-west coast, Galicia is celebrated for its lush landscapes, Atlantic shoreline, beaches and fishing villages, as well as cities such as Santiago de Compostela, A Coruña and Vigo. The region is also well-known for its seafood and culinary delights.

Its blend of coastline, countryside, culture and cuisine makes Galicia ideally suited to families, groups and couples seeking a more independent villa break and the opportunity to experience a different side of Spain, away from the country’s more traditional resort hotspots.

The area is steadily growing in popularity. Last year, travel journalist Simon Calder explored the region’s appeal for the Independent. He spoke to Jessica Harvey Taylor, head of press for the Spanish Tourist Office in the UK, who said: “Obviously we’re well aware that the vast majority of our UK holidaymakers are still visiting our five most popular regions: Valencia, Andalucia, Catalonia, and then our islands, the Balearics and the Canaries.

“But it’s very encouraging to see that there’s increased appetite in our northern regions, namely Galicia, Asturias and the Basque country. I think there are multiple reasons. Obviously climate plays a part and not everybody wants the extreme heat that we’ve seen in recent years in the southern Med.

“But there’s much more to it than that. Increasingly, the UK public is realising that they can supplement a beach holiday with something a little bit more adventurous.”

Hollywood legend Mel Gibson, one of the biggest and best-paid actors of the 1990s, has a soft spot for Spain’s northern towns. El Pais reports that the Mad Max star has been spotted dining at a local restaurant in A Fonsagrada in Lugo, and later in Santiago de Compostela, where he took in the cathedral and stayed at the historic Hostal dos Reis Católicos. John Malkovich is a regular visitor to Ponte Maceira, Costa da Morte and A Coruña, the Spanish newspaper revealed.

In the spring of 2019, he returned once more and enjoyed a meal at restaurant Casa Salvador in A Baña alongside Spanish actress Marisa Paredes. The addition of Galicia forms part of a broader expansion which has seen Jet2Villas add more than 1,000 new properties to its portfolio for Summer 26, bringing the total number of available villas to over 4,000 across more than 52 destinations.

The airline says its villa holidays can offer travellers private pools and outdoor space, multiple bedrooms and generous shared living areas, making them ideally suited to families holidaying together, multi-generational groups and gatherings of friends. Jet2Villas has recorded its highest ever number of villa bookings for a summer season, with over 100,000 customers and counting, highlighting the enduring demand from families and groups for holidays offering the convenience of a package holiday combined with the space, privacy and flexibility of a villa break.

David Hills, Chief Customer Officer of Jet2, said: “We’re delighted to introduce Galicia to Jet2Villas for the first time, giving customers even more choice when it comes to villa holidays in Spain. With more than 1,000 new villas added to the collection and a record number of villa customers for Summer 26, we’re continuing to grow our programme in response to strong demand.”

The Xunta De Galicia tourist information website outlines a host of reasons why visitors might be tempted to head there. It says “Miles of coastline, fine sandy beaches, small fishing ports and outstanding gastronomy make the Rías Baixas one of the favourite destinations for travellers looking to combine nature, culture and the sea.

“A journey through the O Grove Peninsula, the Illa de Arousa or the Muros and Noia estuaries reveals sheltered coves, scenic waterfront walks and viewpoints overlooking breathtaking landscapes. After a day at the beach, there’s nothing better than enjoying fresh seafood and fish by the sea, paired with one of Galicia’s renowned wines with Designation of Origin.”

It also highlights that inland Galicia is home to the spectacular Ribeira Sacra, where the Sil and Miño rivers have carved deep canyons lined with centuries-old vineyards, historic monasteries and forests waiting to be explored.

For further information and to book, visit: www.jet2villas.com