I visited the North African seaside town that felt like Santorini
I CAN’T help but feel like a young Lord Alan Sugar as I negotiate a handmade mug down to half price in one of the most beautiful market streets.
In May sunshine, the glorious blue sky pops off the glistening white walls of the stunning coastal town of Sidi Bou Said in northern Tunisia.
All the buildings are decked out in white and blue, providing a gorgeous visual as the perfect sky kisses the crystal clear, calm Mediterranean sea.
My guide, an affable local named Madhi, tells me the striking colour scheme also helps combat the effects of the incredible heat, which can reach well over 40C in summer, by reflecting away the sun.
Sidi Bou Said is reminiscent of Santorini and symbolic of the blend of cultures that modern-day Tunisia infuses.
It is an Arabic country but there are French and Roman influences too, due to the country’s colonial past.
Madhi tells me there is a liberal view among many Tunisians as he points out that if one sister decides to wear an Islamic veil, and the other opts for no veil and multiple tattoos, both can expect to be treated respectfully.
Just down the street from Sidi Bou Said, and via Tunisia’s presidential palace no less, are the remarkably well preserved ancient ruins of Carthage.
I marvel at the fact this site isn’t more heaving with visitors, given its historical significance.
Around 2,000 years ago, this was one of the most important sites in the Roman Empire, following a bloody battle between the Romans and the Carthaginians.
Now it offers a brilliant insight into Tunisia’s past, just a 20-minute drive from the country’s capital Tunis.
Rather than stay there, however, we have booked in at the plush five-star Les Orangers Garden Villas and Bungalows, an hour’s drive south in the popular coastal town of Hammamet.
With Enfidha Airport (served by several EasyJet flights from the UK every day including a new route from Newcastle) just 30 minutes away, Hammamet offers an intriguing alternative for tourists.
And our stay at the all-inclusive Les Orangers didn’t disappoint.
The entrance is lined with palm trees and we are greeted by friendly staff bearing mocktails and dates.
Once through reception, we walk out into an enormous courtyard full of plants, seating areas and more palm trees.
There is a gym, two outdoor pools and an indoor one as well as a spa featuring sauna and traditional Tunisian-style hammam with massages available to book.
The hotel has an international buffet restaurant and three a la carte restaurants offering Italian, Tunisian and Asian specialities.
There is also a rooftop tapas bar, beachfront snack bar and an Italian-style deli bar so you’re never short of spots to refuel — plus four bars, including one by the beach.
My spacious modern room, which has a view of the sea so good I can even enjoy it from the shower, came complete with air conditioning and mini bar.
I’ve never felt sand so soft as I walk to my lounger on their private beach.
The sea itself is beautifully clear and the perfect temperature; offering a pleasant shock to the system before settling down and feeling really quite warm.
As I lay back to soak up the sun I can hear German, Italian and French accents but only a few British ones.
I can’t help but feel that we might be missing a trick not flocking here in even greater numbers.
Those that do will enjoy the country’s remarkable food.
For a true taste of authentic Tunisian cuisine we head 15 minutes inland to Douar Laroussi, a family-run farm and restaurant.
Each door has a woman’s name written above it, which Madhi informs us is to stress that the woman is the true boss of each household.
Our host, and his charming aunt Jdidia, greet us warmly as they prepare to show us how their food is made.
Here Jdidia works her magic, and even gets us to join in.
She moulds tabouna bread into shape with her hands before baking it in an outdoor oven.
Next is the couscous, which she masterfully crafts from just semolina and water.
For our starter we mix olive oil made on site with mouth-watering local harissa and our homemade bread, which took barely ten minutes.
After tucking into my divine vegetable couscous I just had to buy some of their olive oil and harissa, I absolutely had to take some back to the UK to share.
In Hammamet itself are two Medinas; the old and the new.
The old, part of a second century fortress looking out over the sea, gives me an opportunity to test my bartering skills again as local Tarek engraves my name into a plate in Arabic.
I don’t quite manage to haggle down to half price this time but I’m happy with my unique souvenir, not to mention this wonderful trip as a whole.
GO: TUNISIA
GETTING THERE: Fly with easyJet to Enfidha– Hammamet from Gatwick, Southend, Manchester, Liverpool, Bristol and the newly-launched twice-weekly service from Newcastle.
Fares start at £44 one way.
See easyjet.com.
STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the 5H Les Orangers Garden Villas and Bungalows is from £1,267pp including Gatwick flights on July 15, 23kg luggage and transfers.
Flights from Newcastle from £1,282pp.






