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Crete welcomed approximately 6.6 million visitors last year, with British tourists averaging 8.1-night stays — but the Mirror has discovered the hidden gems of the island away from the beaches…

Goats bleat and their bells clang as they amble through the steep hillside shrubs, pausing to graze on wild thyme beneath a cloudless Cretan sky. I peer in the other direction and see the Aegean Sea sparkle, with waves kissing the rugged coastline.

Beaches are within a stone’s throw to my left – a northerly direction – yet I can pick my way to the right – to the south – and wander through grassland and hills to explore a trove of history. Crete, the largest and most populous island of Greece, offers that fascinating beauty – coasts and mountains in one spectacle.

It makes for a great holiday. The island is defined by rugged mountains, fertile valleys and endless olive groves. I made my home near Mochlos, a fishing village in the northeast of the island, which meant I could spend a couple of hours splashing in the sea at the beach in the mornings before exploring the history and nature inland in the afternoons.

The hills are dotted with historical attractions, including Toplou Monastery. Founded in the 14th century, it is still functioning. The monks there make wine and treat me to a splendid tasting session.

Crete’s history stretches back far beyond classical Greece. Archaeological evidence suggests people have lived here for more than 130,000 years, making it one of Europe’s oldest inhabited regions.

Tourism arrived in earnest during the late 1960s and early 1970s, when artists such as Joni Mitchell and Cat Stevens helped put the island on the map. While modern tourism has transformed parts of the coastline, much of Crete retains its timeless character.

And I enjoyed this charm along the north coast. One afternoon, I travelled west along the coast, hopped on a little boat and spent a short while on Spinalonga. This island, maintained as a fortress for centuries under Venetian rule, became a leper colony in the early 20th century. It has been uninhabited since 1962, and is now the second-most visited tourist site in Crete.

Head to Archanes, a town with roots stretching back some 5,000 years to the Minoan civilisation. The cobbled streets there are particularly beguiling. There is not a tourist in sight and barely an English voice to be heard. It feels as though little has changed for centuries.

But the atmosphere there and across the rural charms of northern Crete feels wonderfully authentic. Elderly locals in padded jackets sip beer, smoke cigarettes and play backgammon as the afternoon drifts by.

Venture into most of these rural towns and villages, and you’ll see colorful houses draped in bougainvillea. It is stunning to discover such genuine slices of Cretan life in a region that attracts so many visitors.

But this agricultural heritage is one of Crete’s greatest treasures — and the tourism helps protect and sustain it. This glorious island has indeed struck a chord between the modern sun-kissed holiday trap and the quaint traditional charm.

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Rooms at Ella Rocrita start from approx. £184 per night, depending on season.