It’s somewhere I keep returning to and never get tired of – in fact, I think it’s one of the loveliest market towns
Journalist Portia Jones has revealed her best market town(Image: Portia Jones )
Regular readers of journalist Portia Jones will be well aware of her unabashed affection for Welsh market towns. A mix of authentic pubs, independent retailers, and eccentric cafes offering local fare and quality coffee is Portia’s idea of bliss.
However, one stands out above the rest and she has finally settled on her favourite. Portia explains why…
I’ve visited a considerable number of market towns throughout Wales, and I’m often asked which one tops my list. It’s a tough question given the country is practically brimming with charm, but after much contemplation, mostly undertaken in pubs, I have an answer.
Rhayader. Always Rhayader. The place I find myself returning to time and again, and the one I rave about to anyone unfortunate enough to ask for recommendations. I could talk about it for hours!
Situated at the crossroads in mid-Wales, this is a vastly underappreciated gem that, despite its wealth of attractions, doesn’t receive the recognition it deserves, reports Wales Online.
Boasting the stunning dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, I believe Rhayader ranks among the finest market towns in Wales and merits a lengthy visit when journeying along the A470.
This community-centric market town serves as an ideal base for biking, hiking, wildlife spotting, or simply unwinding with friends in traditional pubs.
Rhayader has long functioned as a mid-Wales hub for weary travellers, acting as a stopover for drovers and those journeying the lengthy route from London to Aberystwyth.
Today, it’s recognised as the entrance to the Elan Valley and is situated just outside the expansive estate. It serves as a handy base with numerous independent shops, cafes, and pubs, also branding itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales’.
In terms of pubs, you’ll be spoilt for choice in Rhayader, boasting an impressive number of quality establishments for a relatively small town, which is one of the many reasons it tops my list of market towns.
For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown for generous helpings of meat, vegetables, and Yorkshire pudding. It’s a Sunday roast just like mum used to make – no-nonsense, satisfying, and drenched in gravy.
You certainly won’t leave feeling peckish. The Historic Triangle, a beautiful 16th-century drover’s inn located a brief walk away in Cwmdauddwr, offers a cosy fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food featuring several pub favourites.
The Lamb and Flag is another great spot for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries, while the vibrant green Elan Hotel’s bar boasts a decent selection of beverages.
Pop into The Lost Arc for lunch and coffee at this quirky community cafe. Be sure to try my favourite – a delicious Welsh rarebit consisting of toasted bread covered in warm mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a touch of laverbread and mustard.
It’s truly divine, and I challenge you to find a better one in Wales. If you do, let me know – I’m always on the hunt for a top-notch rarebit. In addition to a god-tier Welsh classic, they also offer coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a variety of vegan options.
By evening, this trendy spot morphs into a live music venue, featuring up-and-coming acts and hosting popular pizza nights.
The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a charming, family-run tea room and cake shop that provides a delightful setting for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Don’t miss their irresistibly tasty chicken curry, made from a family recipe.
For a top-notch caffeine hit in Rhayader, make a beeline for Narrative Coffee, the fresh face on the high street, already causing a stir and garnering glowing reviews.
This chic little place recently reached the finals of the UK Coffee Masters in London, an impressive achievement, and the team is thrilled to be acknowledged as one of Wales’ premier spots for speciality coffee.
Rhayader is not only home to pubs but also a lovely destination for shopping at independent and boutique stores. Along the main thoroughfare, you’ll discover a compact shopping area where you can peruse a range of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.
One of the more unique shopping experiences here is Hafod Hardware – a vintage, family-run hardware store that has been serving customers since 1895.
In addition to the usual DIY items and kitchenware, you can also snag vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially-crafted Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars that make perfect gifts.
Quillies is a must-visit for its splendid locally-produced crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. Get your shopping fix at the family-owned No8 Clothing where you’ll find clothing, accessories, and gifts for men, women, and children.
The two-storey shop stocks popular brands such as Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.
River Wood stands out as the UK’s only gallery-bookshop dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places, brimming with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. The upper floor houses a working artist’s studio and space for creative workshops.
For quality outdoor gear, Hill Walking offers a good selection of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers. These brands are all well-suited to handle Wales’ wildly unpredictable weather conditions.
Beyond the town, there’s a wealth of activities and outdoor adventures to keep you entertained. Rhayader serves as the gateway to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the estate’s Victorian dams nestled among the rolling green hills.
Constructed over a century ago to provide water to a heavily urbanised Birmingham, these distinctive gravity dams attract photographers who flock to capture the cascading waters.
The tale of the Elan Valley originates in the late 19th century, during a time when Birmingham, a bustling city at the peak of the Industrial Revolution, was expanding rapidly.
In need of a dependable and clean water source, engineers turned their attention to the remote Elan Valley after extensive searching. The valley, with its high rainfall and steep, narrow terrain, was an ideal site for a series of reservoirs.
In 1892, one of the era’s most ambitious water supply projects commenced. Over 3,000 workers were enlisted to construct dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts manually, aided by steam-powered machinery.
By the project’s completion in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a significant transformation. Four primary dams were built – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a marvel of engineering, constructed from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.
For instance, the Caban Coch Dam, viewed from afar, resembles a natural cliff face, but up close, its immense size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are truly breathtaking.
The reservoirs themselves, large and deep bodies of water, mirror the surrounding hills and sky, creating a picture-perfect scene. Maps of the estate can be obtained from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to recommend scenic routes to view the dams.
The ideal time for a leisurely drive around the estate is after a heavy downpour (a common occurrence in Wales), when reservoir water cascades over the steep ‘Birmingham Baroque’-style structures.
Fancy a guided tour by a local expert? You can arrange a customised tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris, discovering all the hidden gems with a knowledgeable guide.
One of the top ways to explore Elan Valley is by walking or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the old railway line that transported materials to the valley during the dam’s construction.
Today, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the valley’s most picturesque spots. Beginning in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you’ll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan’s finest Victorian dams.
The linear trail is mostly level, with a few slopes and tarmacked sections, making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children. And if you fancy a bit of extra assistance, you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – who says you can’t traverse the valley in style?
If you’re not bringing your own bike, you can hire a push bike or an E-bike from either Neil’s Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take around three hours, so renting a bike for half a day should provide ample time for photo opportunities and coffee breaks.
The path ascends 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing by the striking Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When filled to capacity, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch.
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is the owner of the nearby Elan Estate, though a significant portion is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to provide clean water, the estate also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for intrigued visitors.
Over 80% of the valley is recognised as a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with wildlife and extraordinary landscapes. Owing to its varied habitats and careful stewardship, the Elan Valley is a sanctuary for a broad spectrum of wildlife. The valley’s woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands offer habitats for a diverse array of species including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.
The expansive moorland acts as a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons soaring high above.
For a closer view of the resident red kites, head to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, making it the best spot in the UK to see and photograph hundreds of wild red kites, including the rare leucistic red kites.
Small-scale cattle farming is a vital aspect of Elan Valley’s agricultural scene, with only a few farms still maintaining this tradition. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot cattle leisurely grazing on the open hills and within some enclosed habitats.
The flora of Elan Valley is equally captivating. Dense forests house ancient oaks while the moorlands are blanketed in a lush layer of heather, bilberry, and mosses.
Come spring and summer, the valley’s meadows come alive with wildflowers, adding vibrant hues to the landscape. Did you know that Rhayader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world’s darkest, clearest, and least polluted skies?
With its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, Elan Valley has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, making it the first privately owned, publicly accessible park in the world to achieve this.
This prestigious status now protects the Elan Valley from light pollution, providing a haven for the rich wildlife and nature that call the estate home.
Since earning its dark-sky designation, Elan Valley has gained recognition as one of the premier stargazing destinations globally, featuring in numerous stargazing guides, talks, and books.
But what does this mean for astronomy enthusiasts? Simply put, it means minimal light pollution and crystal-clear skies where you can observe the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.
The valley’s secluded setting and dedicated conservation efforts make it a top choice for those yearning for a profound connection with the universe.
This location boasts several prime spots for stargazing. Remember to bring a red-light torch to maintain your night vision, and give your eyes 20 minutes to adapt to the darkness for the full celestial experience.
For a more engaging encounter, keep an eye out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography.
The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales frequently organise guided tours and workshops that provide expert knowledge and telescope access. For dark sky events, check the Elan Valley’s What’s On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).
Where to stay
Mid Wales Holiday Lets
These affordable holiday lets can accommodate up to 44 people, with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch all available.
The attractive red-brick converted townhouses are ideal for groups of friends or families visiting the Elan Valley area. They also cater well to cyclists, offering secure bike storage to safeguard your equipment. After a long day exploring, you can relax in the outdoor hot tub, perfect for easing those tired muscles.
Ty Morgans
For a stay in the heart of Rhayader, Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that seamlessly blends traditional charm with a contemporary feel. This charming, reasonably priced boutique hotel is nestled at the heart of Rhayader, making it an ideal base for exploring both the town and the Elan Valley.
The snug rooms retain original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces, whilst providing all the contemporary comforts you’d anticipate, including en suite bathrooms. Ty Morgans also boasts an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can savour a range of meals from hearty Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. Its central location means local shops, pubs and the Riverside Walk are just a short amble away.
Elan Valley Hotel
Just a brief drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel is a top pick for those seeking a blend of comfort and convenience in a boutique hotel setting. Here, you’ll discover well-furnished rooms with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with relaxation in mind, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.
The hotel’s restaurant is famed for its outstanding menu, which uses locally-sourced ingredients to deliver a truly authentic taste of Wales. It’s the perfect spot for easy access to the Elan Valley’s numerous trails and reservoirs, all while enjoying a dash of luxury.
Getting to Rhayader
Rhayader, the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily reachable from various parts of Wales and England.
By car
If you’re hitting the road, Rhayader is conveniently accessible via the A470 and A44, offering a picturesque drive from cities like Cardiff (roughly 2.5 hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (about 90 minutes). The roads leading into mid Wales meander through charming countryside, so do factor in some extra time for leisurely rural routes and photo opportunities.
Public transport
You can also opt to travel by train and bus, although services are somewhat limited in this rural region. The closest train station is in Llandrindod Wells, approximately 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales. From there, a local bus service can take you to Rhayader. For more details and timetables, consult Traveline Cymru or use transport apps to assist in planning your journey.