MEET Metz. It’s a French city you may not have heard of – but with impressive history, great food, and world-beating stained glass and art, it’s worth putting on your radar.
It has Luxembourg and Germany as neighbours and has been at Europe’s crossroads since Roman times.
My discovery began with checking in at the surreal Maison Heler Metz hotel, part of Hilton’s characterful Curio Collection.
Designed by French architect Philippe Starck, the nine-storey monolith-style building is topped with an incongruous silver house designed like a traditional 19th-century Metz home.
The 104-room hotel, described as a “habitable work of art” by Starck, opened in March and feels like walking into one of the more leftfield episodes of Channel 4’s Grand Designs.
Its theme is the story of fictional character Manfred Heler, an inventor who lives alone in a grand 19th-century home – meticulous, contemplative and obsessed with new technology.
Public areas are decorated with brown wood, stained glass and surreal photographs of men wearing masks. It’s a feast for the eyes.
French and fabulous
Room decor is minimalist and functional, featuring brown leather, exposed concrete and moody lighting.
Nearly half of the wall space in my suite was taken up by huge windows overlooking the city centre.
The bathroom, with ultra-modern sink and walk-in shower, is hidden behind a sliding mirror. It’s a bit like washing in a very expensive cupboard.
In fact, it felt more like a sanctuary than a hotel room and, at bedtime, thick curtains can be pulled over the giant windows leaving the room totally dark.
Up on the ninth floor, restaurant La Maison de Manfred – styled as the family dining room in the whimsical house Monsieur Heler inherited from his parents – serves an exciting, non-conformist menu.
Expect everything from zesty ceviche and grilled octopus, to delicious Argentinian ribeye steak with chimichurri sauce. If weather permits, there’s also a balcony for drinks, with grandstand views across the city.
This is definitely a one-off hotel experience and I enjoyed every minute of my stay.
Heading out to explore, I started at Centre Pompidou-Metz, the younger sibling of the contemporary art museum Centre Pompidou in Paris.
The latter recently closed for renovation, so the curators at Metz have been able to pick from the massive Paris collection and create a remarkable exhibition.
Opened in 2010, the building – inspired by a woman’s hat – is only a short walk from the hotel (from £6pp, see centrepompidou-metz.fr/en).
Next on my itinerary was the 800-year-old gothic Cathedral of Saint Stephen, completed in 1552 after a 300-year build – but it has continued to be worked on over the past 500 years.
Nicknamed La Lanterne du Bon Dieu (the Good Lord’s lantern), the church has the largest expanse of stained glass – mostly Renaissance – in the world, totalling nearly 70,000 sq ft of amazing glazing (free, £4.50pp for crypt and tower).
Another fascinating selling point is that Metz, which straddles the Moselle river in north-east France, has considerable German architecture as it was annexed by its neighbours after the 1870 Franco-Prussian War.
The new “owners” also changed all the street names before handing the city back after the Allies’ victory in World War One.
But Metz was again seized, this time by the Nazis, during World War Two before it reverted to France in 1945.
History lesson over, I strolled to the Brasserie Le Arts et Metiers for dinner – a meal that was very French and fabulous.
To start, I had a fresh and vibrant shrimp-and-crab tartare served with yoghurt and dill – delicious smeared on freshly baked bread.
I could not resist a main of classic Confit Duck with roasted new potatoes.
What makes this dish extra-special is that the duck leg is cured in salt, garlic and herbs before being cooked in its own fat.
It’s a rich, unctuous recipe which pairs perfectly with potatoes of any kind.
For dessert, I had my first Rum Baba. When I saw the small, spongy cake covered with syrup and booze and topped with whipped cream, the poor thing did not stand a chance (brasseriemetz.com).
You may not have heard of Metz, but it’s the surreal deal for a city break with a difference.
GO METZ
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Luxembourg from £34 return. See ryanair.com
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Maison Heler Metz, Curio Collection by Hilton hotel start at £92 a night. See hilton.com.