Wales’ craggy coastline is among the most beautiful in the world and can be enjoyed year-round
The UK’s craggy coastline is among the most beautiful in the world and can be enjoyed year-round, especially in winter when crowds disperse and prices drop. I spent an affordable winter weekend in Tenby, widely considered one of the UK’s best seaside towns — and now summer travel is officially off the list as I want to avoid the crowds and sky-high prices.
There’s a particular joy in taking a solitary coastal walk on a Tuesday in November while everyone else is stuck at their desks. Strolling around the seafront, it’s easy to see why Tenby is such a hit. With picturesque beaches just a short stroll from the lively town centre, pubs, cobbled streets, and eye-catching, brightly coloured houses, I’m not surprised that this coastal jewel consistently tops the list of the country’s “best seaside towns”.
Stepping beyond its historic 13th-century walls, you’ll find sandy beaches and dramatic cliffside vistas over the sea towards the mesmerising Caldey Island. I have visited Tenby many, many times over the years, from childhood holidays to grown-up escapes and I love it a bit more with each visit. While admittedly summer is perfect for sea swimming and long wine-filled afternoons on sun-trap pub terraces, I have come to appreciate Tenby more in winter, especially when I can bag a good accommodation deal.
Sure, the weather might not be as sunny, but this is Wales. It’s completely unpredictable, so you may as well chance a cheaper autumn visit and hope the weather gods smile upon you. I love that if you visit Tenby during the week, say, mid-January, you can escape the crowds and wander the pretty streets and sandy beaches in relative peace. Just wrap up warm, buy a hot chocolate, and watch the waves roll in from a chilled-out seaside cafe.
Where to stay in Tenby
You can get some pretty good deals in the off-season, especially if you visit midweek rather than at the weekend. One of my favourite spots is YHA Manorbier, a very affordable stay that’s a short drive from the town centre.
This budget-friendly hostel, situated on a former military installation, offers glamping and camping facilities and costs under £50 for a private en-suite room for two (YHA members pay even less). Accommodation options include affordable private rooms, unique American Airstreams, cute camping pods, and pitch-up camping.
I usually book a clean, private en-suite room for just £45 for two, and as a YHA member, I get an extra 10% off. Win! Yes, the private rooms can have limited space for large luggage, which estate agents might call “bijou” and normal people might call “compact”. However, for just over £20 each it’s a genuine bargain – especially in the pricey Pembrokeshire area. You’re here for the vibes.
A community-spirited atmosphere fostered by shared kitchens, mismatched mugs, and conversations over wine in the lounge. Want to stay closer to town? Check out autumn deals on Booking.com and book a seaside hotel for around £70 for two adults, or spoil yourself with a stay at a four-star property, the Dunes, for just £80 for a night in the off-season.
The Premier Inn Tenby Town Centre hotel costs just £48 for a night for two in January and offers a cosy stay right in the middle of all the action.
Things to do in Tenby off-season
There’s still plenty to do in Tenby after the busy summer season has ended. You can stomp along the coast path, drink craft ales in local boozers, browse boutique shops, and pick up locally made gifts. Tenby has several sandy beaches where you can take a chilly winter sea dip if you’re feeling brave or drink hot chocolate overlooking the blustery shoreline.
South Beach is a dune-backed sandy beach close to the town and has the added accolade of being a Blue Flag Beach. For food options, check out Salty’s Beach Bar and Restaurant, located right on the beach.
Nearby Castle Beach was crowned the UK’s best beach in 2019 and currently holds a 4.8 out of five rating on Google. Unlike most places in the UK, it’s just a few steps from the town centre. North Beach in the Pembrokeshire town has previously been voted the most photogenic in the UK, beating other stunning sites like Durdle Door in Dorset and Brighton seafront. Pretty Harbour Beach is the smallest but has a backdrop of colourful houses, bobbing boats, and a road leading back to town.
Autumn is also a great time to traverse the Tenby Coast Path. This scenic section of the larger Pembrokeshire Coast Path offers views of Tenby’s colourful harbour, Caldey Island, and St Catherine’s Island.
Popular routes include the four-mile walk to Saundersfoot, a moderate nine-mile loop returning inland, and a challenging 10.9-mile point-to-point path to Freshwater East.
If it’s raining, head to Tenby Museum and Art Gallery, the oldest independent museum in Wales. Established in 1878, this retro museum houses a wide-ranging collection of local geology, biology, archaeology, and maritime artefacts.
Many of the exhibits also relate to the culture and heritage of South Pembrokeshire, offering insight into local history and art. A small gift shop near the entrance also sells local books and gift items.
The museum’s admission price is £6.50 for adults and £3.50 for children. It also operates a reusable ticket scheme – all tickets are valid for one year after purchase, so you can make as many return visits as you like within that time at no additional charge.
Places to eat and drink in Tenby
There are two local breweries in Tenby for Welsh tipples. Both produce quality beers and supply local bars and restaurants. Tenby Brewing Co., which took over from Preseli Brewery, has multiple stockists in Tenby and is one of Wales’s leading craft breweries.
The award-winning brewery was born when two friends decided (over a pint) to quit the rat race and start their own brewery. The Yard is their hip venue here at the brewery, with a capacity of 150, an exciting rotating food offering from awesome pop-up food vendors, draft beer lines from their range, and some of their favourite brewers.
The newer brewery on the scene, Harbwr, is a craft brewery and taproom that brews a range of cask and bottled ales just above Tenby harbour.
Food-wise, Tenby’s cluster of tiny streets and pastel-coloured buildings hides its best restaurants and cafes down the narrowest of alleys.
One of these more secluded dining finds is Plantagenet House, with a warren of flagstone floors, exposed beams, and a 40ft medieval Flemish chimney.
If you book early enough, you can bag a table by the fireplace. A recommended dish is their vegan Thai coconut curry, featuring squash, chargrilled spring onion, spiced rice, and roasted almonds.
Links restaurant is located on the ground floor of Tenby Golf Club and is a great Michelin-recommended dining choice for gastronomes.
Led by a talented local chef, the menu features simple yet incredibly tasty dishes made with the best Welsh produce. Start your meal with their freshly baked ale bread, served with whipped Marmite butter – trust me, it’s the perfect opener.
The atmosphere is relaxed but refined, and the menu strikes the perfect balance between unpretentious and exciting. From hot-smoked salmon with cucumber and buttermilk to heritage tomatoes paired with buffalo mozzarella, there are loads of lush dishes to choose from.
For mains, enjoy locally sourced delights like Pembrokeshire beef or Cornish cod in a bisque sauce, or tuck into a tender Welsh lamb rump, served with all the right accompaniments.
And don’t forget to save room for dessert, whether it’s rich dark chocolate fondant with tarragon ice cream or tangy lemon meringue with almond cake and blueberry sorbet, you won’t go home hungry.
D. Fecci and Sons possibly serve the best fish and chips in Wales and have been serving visitors and locals since 1935. With potatoes grown up the road in Pembrokeshire and groundnut oil making haddock, cod, and calamari fantastically light, the chippy also serves fresh mackerel in the summer.
For sweet treats, pop into Môr Tenby, a swish family-run coffee shop and gift shop that sells its own blend of coffee (“Coffi Môr”), chocolate products, deli items, home fragrances, homeware, gifts, and Welsh produce.
A beloved institution in Tenby, Top Joe’s is the go-to spot for pizza lovers.
This former ’60s diner has transformed into an artisan pizzeria serving freshly-made pizza, pasta, and salads with the finest Italian ingredients. Located in the heart of this picturesque beach town, it’s a firm favourite with locals and visitors.
Chef Giovanni Recchia, recently named one of the best in the world at the Pizza World Championships, brings his expertise to the menu. He crafts pizzas with locally milled flour and top-notch ingredients, including cured meats from Trealy Farm Charcuterie.
After snapping up a room for just £50, strolling straight into pubs that are usually rammed, and demolishing fish and chips by the sea, I can honestly say winter has stolen the crown as my favourite time in Tenby.
In 2026, I fully intend to resist the siren call of summer and book another cold-weather escape, where I can wander the streets before anyone else wakes up and claim the town entirely for myself.