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A year ago, we were all glued to our phones, namely the Watch Duty app, as we watched fires rip through beloved neighborhoods and landscapes. We braced ourselves for the death toll, the number of homes lost and what was harmed in our beloved mountains.
The Eaton and Palisades fires were the beginning of a crushing year for L.A.
I don’t believe in closure or want to push the idea of resilience, concepts too often forced in these kind of post-disaster narratives. But I do believe in pausing to discern what we have learned over the past year.
I recently spoke with trail crew volunteers, including two who lost their houses in the fires, to get their takes.
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They each shared what’s helped them move through this past year, including what we can learn from the regrowth and recovery of our local forests. I left these conversations feeling inspired by both the natural and human spirit. I hope you will be too.
Lesson 1: Humans are adaptable like the trees and plants
After the devastating 2018 Woolsey fire, which burned much of the Santa Monica Mountains, photographer Jane Simpson made regular pilgrimages to Malibu Creek State Park to document the renewal process. She saw the hillsides start to green, and lupine and other flowers (and mustard) start to bloom.
It helped give her a baseline for what to expect when she started returning to the mountains scorched by the Palisades fire.
Simpson is a member of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter’s Santa Monica Mountains Task Force trail crew, known often by their nickname, the Trailies.
In November, Simpson worked alongside other Trailies on the Bienveneda and Leacock trails in Topanga State Park. The area was badly burned, but still Simpson noticed green sprouts peeking out of the ashy soil and from the branches of trees that the average passerby might assume were dead.
“I just want to think that the trees, the flowers, the [landscape] are not just responding blindly and dumbly — we know they’ve learned to adapt, and humans are learning to adapt as well,” said Simpson, who joined the Trailies in 2017.
Simpson has been forced to adapt. Her home in the Palisades Highlands was among thousands that burned in the Palisades fire, and she alongside her neighbors are grappling with whether to rebuild. Simpson grew up in Mandeville Canyon, and as a kid, she’d head out the door with a sack lunch and friends for a day of unsupervised adventures. It’s hard to imagine not living there.
Trail crew worker Jane Simpson observes a Humboldt’s lily in Santa Ynez Canyon last summer.
(Gaby Valensi)
Before the fire, Simpson could walk out her front door and quickly take one of about five nearby trailheads. She and a neighbor would often “just head out the door and go anywhere,” she said, like the many times they headed along Palisades Drive to Temescal Ridge Trail to Radio Peak, a local name for Temescal Peak.
Those trips helped them learn the local plants and how they changed with the seasons, like how the ceanothus would blossom with blue blooms in early spring. And in Santa Ynez Canyon, Simpson loved spotting the Humboldt’s lilies, knowing the perennials would come back every year.
Even after the devastation of the Palisades fire, she’s seen those lilies return to the same spot they’ve always been.
“A fire-scarred landscape may look dead, but spotting a familiar flower is like seeing old friends,” she said. “It’s reassurance — that some kind of normal is possible. Of course, when it is your own property, there is no normal there, but there is reassurance that for the earth, the wildlife, plants, things will go on, even if I don’t return.”
Lesson 2: We have our own ecological role to play
Trailie crew member Ron Dean is drawn to trail work for creativity. Every 10 minutes, there’s seemingly a new problem the trail crew faces, like, “Where should we put the trail? Should we put the rocks over here? Does this need a drain? How can we move this thing out of the way? It’s wonderful,” he said.
When I asked Dean, who joined the crew 12 years ago, to describe his relationship with the Santa Monica Mountains, he was quick to answer.
“When I’m out in the mountains, I feel like I’m hanging out with my best friend,” Dean said.
A Trailies volunteer works on the Leacock Trail in 2019.
(Jane Simpson)
Dean moved from Wisconsin to L.A. in 1970 for a job and stayed for the climate and landscape. Every Sunday for the past several years, Dean and his son Josh would hike in the Santa Monica Mountains, leaving Dean’s home in the Palisades and often hitting a loop trail to Goat Peak, also referred to by some locals as High Point. After the hike, they’d have brunch and watch football.
That home, which was built in 1951, burned in the Palisades fire. Similar to how he approaches trail work, Dean is looking at how to create a better home for today’s climate, adding solar panels, backup batteries, water recycling and a heat pump system.
Dean is comfortable tackling problems that seemingly have no end. He’s known among his fellow Trailies as the “mustard man” because whenever he sees invasive black mustard — the yellow flowers that cover L.A.’s hillsides in the spring before drying into quick-burning brown twigs — he yanks it out. “Will I win? Of course not,” Dean said.
A member of the Trailies works on Leacock Trail in 2019.
(Jane Simpson)
This is the kind of acceptance Dean has learned from our local mountains — that we can all do our part for as long as we’re here.
Lesson 3: Restoration is a form of reciprocity
In 2012, Rubio Canyon Trail Crew member Sean Green made it his personal mission to restore the Lone Tree Trail in Rubio Canyon. The path, built more than 100 years ago, was constructed so that workers from a municipal water company could reach the utility’s water intakes far into the canyon, Green said.
The trail had been abandoned for decades, but was rediscovered after the 1993 Kinneloa fire ripped through the area. “I decided I loved that trail and I restored it,” Green said.
The Rubio Canyon Trail Crew removes a landslide from the Gooseberry Motorway in 1997.
(Sean Green)
The trail crew’s work is part of a long history of give and take between humans and the canyon.
The lush landscape of chaparral, coast sage scrubs and creek beds was once a stop on the Mount Lowe Railway. The “railway climbed the steep Lake Avenue and crossed the poppy fields into the Rubio Canyon,” according to a local history website. “This part of the trip was called the Mountain Division. At this juncture stood the Rubio Pavilion, a small 12-room hotel. From there the passengers transferred to a cable car funicular which climbed the Great Incline to the top of the Echo Mountain promontory.”
The Rubio Cañon Land and Water Assn. has pulled water from the canyon since the 1880s, delivering it to nearby residents in Altadena. But in the late ’90s, in a still-debated controversy, the water company completed a construction project that sent thousands of yards of debris into the canyon, burying at least three waterfalls.
“Whether by nature’s hand or man’s, with time or with money, Rubio Canyon’s waterfalls will return,” Pasadena Star-News journalist Becky Oskin wrote at the time.
It appears that time has finally come.
Green said heavy rains pushed debris away from the once-covered Maidenhair Falls, a 30-foot cascade named after the Maidenhair ferns that once surrounded it.
The Rubio Canyon Trail Crew, which has worked in the area for more than 25 years, is busy bringing the rest of the canyon’s trails back too.
Claus Boettger, Phil Fujii and Jason Trevor backfill a new retaining wall along the Gooseberry Motorway in 2005. The original road was built in 1923 by Southern California Edison to install electric towers along the foothill ridges. It is now a single-track trail.
(Sean Green)
The Eaton fire ripped through the Rubio Canyon Preserve, seriously damaging the canyon’s chaparral, coast sage scrub and riparian habitats.
Green said his crew has almost finished restoring the Loma Alta Trail and has put in several hours on the Gooseberry Motorway, which takes hikers up and over a ridgeline, eventually into Angeles National Forest. The motorway was originally built by Southern California Edison to install electrical towers, Green said.
The crew has started seeing wildflowers, trees and wildlife all return to the canyon.
“The land is recovering,” Green said. “The Eaton fire caused a lot of damage, burning many houses down and burning the vegetation, but nature is very resilient and it will come back. … The canyon itself is going to take awhile to look like a vegetated canyon bottom because of all the debris that came down, but the rest of Rubio Canyon is going to regrow. It’s going to look pretty, and we’re going to get the trails in shape.”
Lesson 4: Hard work pays off
Lowelifes founder Rob Pettersen repairs a trail in Angeles National Forest.
(Erik Hillard, Lowelifes RCC)
The hiking trails of Angeles National Forest, as a whole, are in far better shape than they were 10 years ago. In spite of repeated wildfires — the Bobcat fire in 2020, the Bridge fire in 2024, the Eaton fire last year — and heavy rains, the trails remain.
I was so focused on the damage of the past year from the Eaton fire and heavy rainfall, I hadn’t zoomed out to consider the bigger picture until I spoke to Rob Pettersen, a founding board member of the Lowelifes Respectable Citizens’ Club.
The Lowelifes are among a dedicated coalition of trail crews that dedicate hundreds of hours every year to reestablishing damaged trails by lugging out fallen and dead trees, moving soil and rock, and more.
“We are moving forward, but Mother Nature has other ideas sometimes,” Pettersen said. “There’s no silver bullet for fixing these trails. They just need constant attention. It’s just the nature of our geology.”
Pettersen has volunteered on trail work crews off and on for the past 20 years, most consistently after Lowelifes was founded in 2019. Pettersen enjoys living in Los Feliz, but like most of us, is drawn to the solace and peace that the mountains provide.
After the 2020 Bobcat fire, which burned through Big Santa Anita Canyon and several other beloved places, the Lowelifes focused several months on restoring the Idlehour Trail, a six-mile jaunt through lush woodland.
“This time last year, Idlehour was in some of the best shape it’s ever been — and then it got melted” in the Eaton fire, Pettersen said. “It’s a very popular [and] special place for Lowelifes folks individually, and the fact we had just completed a lot of work there is kind of brutal.”
This ebb and flow of fire and flood, exacerbated by human-caused climate change, he said, is why the Lowelifes focus on restoring trails to a quality that can withstand harsh conditions.
“Even though we’ve had multiple years now where we’ve done a bunch of trail restoration work and then got hit by several inches of rain in 12 hours,” Pettersen said, “the vast majority of the trail mileage holds up because we do good work so the trail isn’t gone. But the trouble spots — the heavy drainages, the cliffy areas — those are always impacted by debris flow. So it’s a bummer, but it also feels good to be making a difference and doing good work for the community.”
Rob Pettersen cuts through a downed log during a Lowelifes work day on trails in Angeles National Forest.
(Matt Baffert, Lowelifes RCC)
Several Lowelife crew members lost their homes or livelihood in the Eaton fire, including Lowelifes president Matt Baffert. Additionally, the fire also burned up the crew’s tools, which were stored at Baffert’s home.
A year later, though, Baffert and others are rebuilding and moving back, Pettersen said.
That’s in large part because the community rallied behind the Lowelifes. The group received several grants and donations, and the Lowelifes as a nonprofit came out of the fire more financially secure than before. Pettersen said so many volunteers showed up to help that the Lowelifes had to turn people away because they couldn’t safely fit everyone who showed up on the trails to work.
“It’s amazing seeing how many people care about our Lowelifes individually and about our trails and our Angeles National Forest,” Pettersen said. “People care about trails, people care about public lands; that’s been positive and we want to keep building on that.”
This month, the Lowelifes plan — rain and snow permitting — to head back to the Idlehour trail.
The work continues.
3 things to do
Hikers with Hearts for Sight and the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter trek along a path together.
(Joan Schipper, Hearts For Sight)
1. Volunteer as a hiker guide in L.A. Hearts For Sight and the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter will host their monthly White Cane Hike at 8:30 a.m. Jan. 18 in Griffith Park. Volunteers are needed to guide blind and visually-impaired hikers on a gentle hike from Franklin’s Cafe & Market to a heliport in the park. The hike is free, and lunch is provided. To register, call Hearts for Sight at (818) 457-1482.
2. Make new friends hiking in Elysian Park LA for the Culture Hiking Club will host a beginner-friendly, free community hike at noon Saturday in Elysian Park. The group will meet at the Grace E. Simons Lodge parking lot before heading onto the Elysian Park West Loop, which offers stunning views of the city. Register at eventbrite.com.
3. Commune with nature and a notebook near Calabasas California State Parks and Santa Monica Mountains Nature Journal Club will host a nature journaling meetup from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Sunday at Malibu Creek State Park. Participants who are new to nature journaling are invited to take a free introductory course while experienced nature journalers can head into the park. The group will reconvene at noon to share their experiences. Guests are invited to bring a potluck dish to share. Register at eventbrite.com.
The must-read
(Mary Forgione / Los Angeles Times)
One of the first places I go to research a trail is The Times archives because we’ve been writing about the trails and campgrounds of Angeles National Forest for more than 100 years. In all that time, we haven’t slowed down enough to write a comprehensive guide of the forest — until now. I spent the past few months researching and writing what is a part love letter/part guide to help you explore every corner of the 700,000-acre national forest playground that sits right in our backyard. I hope you save this guide and use it for many of your future adventures! I know I will.
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
After the recent rain and snowfall, there are new and serious hazards on our local trails that you must consider before heading out. We have already lost at least three hikers locally this winter. As I’ve written previously, you often need crampons and an ice axe, equipment you need to be experienced using, before heading into a snow hike with elevation gain. I have seen several images on social media of hikers celebrating at the snow-covered Mt. Baldy summit, the highest point in the San Gabriel Mountains, but anyone headed up Baldy needs to understand how dangerous the hike is in winter conditions. As Kyle Fordham, a 36-year-old experienced hiker, told my colleagues, the Devil’s Backbone trail is typically considered the easier option, but it becomes “a death slide” in the winter. “It basically becomes a giant ice cliff,” Fordham said. “If you don’t know what you’re doing, you can very easily die on it.” If you do run into a fellow hiker in need, please help however you can. It can sometimes be the kindness of a stranger that saves a life. Stay safe out there, friends!
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.
THE Sun’s Hols from £9.50 returns this week, giving you the chance to book a bargain break at over 300 holiday parks across the UK and Europe.
You can take part via The Sun newspaper, with our Sun Savers or by joining Sun Club.
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The Sun’s Hols from £9.50 are back
Join the millions of readers over the past three decades who have packed their bags for our value holidays.
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Millions of our readers have enjoyed our fabulous breaks from £9.50 and, with over 300 holiday parks across the UK and Europe to choose from you’re sure to find a break you like.
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Book with Sun Savers: Download the Sun Savers app or register at sunsavers.co.uk. Then go to the ‘Offers’ section of Sun Savers and click ‘Start Collecting’ on the ‘Hols From £9.50’ page. Collect FIVE Sun Savers codes from those printed at the bottom of the Sun Savers page in the newspaper from Saturday, January 10 to Thursday, January 29. Then enter or scan the codes on Sun Savers to unlock booking from Wednesday, January 14. Or if you are already a Sun Savers member, use the bonus Sun Savers code and we will send you details to book from Tuesday, January 13.
Book by post: Collect FIVE of the codewords printed in The Sun each day from Saturday, January 10 to Thursday, January 29. Cut the codeword out and send it back with the booking form – found in paper on Saturday, January 10 or online at thesun.co.uk/holidays.
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Sun Club offers readers access to more of our award-winning articles from showbiz exclusives, real-life stories, and unrivalled investigations, as a member you will get 350 more articles to read a month.
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A HOTEL owned by a major British sports star has closed ahead of a huge transformation.
Three-time tennis Grand Slam winner Andy Murray has closed the hotel he owns, just three miles from his hometown of Dunblane, in Scotland.
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The Cromlix Hotel in Scotland is owned by Andy Murray and his wife, KimCredit: HandoutInside, the hotel has Traitors-style decorCredit: InstagramAnd the hotel is currently closed to build a new restaurantCredit: Linkedin/@cromlix
The closure comes ahead of a major transformation to the hotel, which sits on a Victorian country estate sprawling over 34 acres with its own chapel and small loch.
Over the coming months, the hotel will remain closed while a new 80-seat restaurant with a ‘living’ roof covered in plants is built.
As for accommodation, three bedrooms will be added and there will be a new wellness cottage too.
Back in 2023, planning permission was also granted for nine new cabins to be built in the woodland, though whether these are going ahead is unclear.
The hotel is then expected to reopen in May of this year.
The tennis player and his wife, Kim, purchased the mansion back in 2013 for a rumoured £1.8million.
Via the hotel’s Instagram account, Cromlix said: “Our team is all set to pack away the house, but we’re already counting down to 15th May when we’ll welcome you back.
“While our doors are closed, our team is still here and ready to take your bookings for spring and beyond.”
Inside the hotel, guests will find a billiards room with vaulted wooden ceilings adding to The Traitors feel of the mansion.
Guests can also request in-room spa treatments such as a back, neck and shoulder massage from £80 or a full body massage from £95.
In the grounds, visitors will be able to spot beehives, chickens, deer and red squirrels across a number of woodland trails.
In classic Murray style, the hotel of course has outdoor tennis courts where guests can have private coaching sessions.
There are a number of different rooms in the hotel including ‘Turret Suites’ – though, they aren’t as small as The Traitors turret.
Inside the rooms, visitors will find statement furniture, country house patterns and botanical features.
When it reopens in May, there will be another smaller restaurant tooCredit: InstagramAs well as three new bedrooms and a ‘wellness cottage’Credit: Not known, clear with picture desk
In total there are 10 bedrooms and five suites, and they have different views, including of the garden and woodland.
Though, if you fancy something a little more private then you can book The Laurel Gate Lodge.
Inside there is a small turret, kitchen, living room, king-size bedroom and a family bathroom with a walk-in shower and separate bath.
If you do want to bring your kids, there is a pull-out sofa bed too.
Though it isn’t cheap, as it costs from £555 to stay in the lodge.
Prices for rooms and suites in the main building vary from around £300 a night.
For wider exploring, the hotel is sat between Glasgow and Edinburgh, with both cities just an hour away.
The mansion was previously passed down generations of the Drummond family.
In that time it has even survived a fire in 1878 and then later was transformed from a house into a hotel.
In other hotel news, these are 12 of our favourite UK hotels to visit this year – from cosy farm retreats to £55 all-inclusives in London.
AFRICAN cities like Marrakech, Casablanca and Rabat have been a popular spot for Brits for many years.
But there’s another city very near the sea in northern Morocco that is getting direct flights from the UK for the very first time this year.
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Buildings sit on mountain slopes in Tetouan – a city that’s getting new flights from the UKCredit: AlamyThe white-washed buildings look similar to those in Andalusia in SpainCredit: Alamy Stock Photo
In March 2026, Royal Air Maroc will launch twice-weekly direct flights from London Gatwick to Tetouan.
The route will start on March 29, 2026 and will operate on Thursdays and Sundays in both directions.
Previously there were no flights from the UK to Tetouan, with Brits having to connect at other cities like Marrakech, Casablanca and Al Hoceima.
Tetouan, which is a port city, is 20 minutes from the coastline, and tourists might be surprised to learn that it has a big Spanish influence, especially from Andalusia, which you’ll still see today.
One visitor wrote on Triapdvisor said: “If you’ve been to the Middle East or Spain being in Morocco is a combination of both”.
The city was once the capital of Spanish Morocco, nicknamed the “daughter of Granada” so a lot of its architecture feels more European than African.
The Tetouan Museum of Modern Art is actually found inside a former Spanish-style train station.
Although there are places where it will feel like Morocco, for example at its medina which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Here you’ll find souks selling crafts, spices, leather goods and jewellery.
Top hotels in the city include Hôtel Al Mandari which has modern rooms – some of which have mountain views – in March it can be booked for £58 per night including breakfast.
A Spanish-style train station has been converted into a museumCredit: AlamyMartil Beach is 20-minutes from the city of TetouanCredit: Alamy
In March, temperatures in Tetouan can be as high as 19C – so if you want to hit the beach, there are plenty of options not that far away.
Some of the nearby beach resorts include Martil which has very long stretches of sand and sits along the Mediterranean coastline.
One visitor on Tripadvisor described it as a “beautiful destination with fine golden sand”.
Another nearby beach town is M’diq which is 20 minutes away by car.
Its beach is popular for swimmers, especially in the morning when the waters are at their clearest – and you can easily get here via a bus from Tetouan.
If you’re more interested in exploring the city, then you’ll be pleased to know that Tetouan is much quieter than the likes of Marrakech as it sees fewer visitors.
When it comes to drink, a local beer will set you back around 25MAD (£2.01) and a meal for two at a mid-range restaurants without drinks is on average 175MAD (£14.10), according to Numbeo.
Chefchaouen called the Blue Pearl is nearby tooCredit: Alamy
Another popular spot is Feddan Park which is in the middle of the city and some visitors have said has the ‘best view of Tetouan’.
From the park you get a good view of the whitewashed buildings and mountains behind them.
Dar El Oddi is a restored Riad that has since been converted into a museum.
There’s also the Royal Palace – although as this is still an active royal residence you can only view it from the outside.
Other nearby destinations include the beautiful city of Chefchaouen, also known as the Blue Pearl – which is an hour inland from Tetouan.
It’s full of bright blue buildings, hence its nickname, as well as steep alleyways and it’s surrounded by the Rif Mountains.
If you head to the edge of the medina, you’ll reach the Ras El Ma – a natural spring.
Marrakech is ‘the perfect short haul April holiday’ according to Head of Sun Travel Lisa Minot…
Lisa Minot, Head of Sun Travel, filled us in on her recent trip to the Moroccan city…
She said: “I’ve just returned from a wonderful long weekend in Marrakech and the city is as exciting as ever.
“We were sunbathing on the roof of our riad in the Medina in glorious 22 degree temperatures – and I loved the amazing desert landscapes just 40 minutes from the hustle and bustle of the souks.
“Tourism is booming in the city and while the streets are as colourful and chaotic as ever, the influx of visitors has brought some gorgeous new bars, restaurants and stunning hotels.”
She added: “It pays to do your research and book restaurants and tours in advance though as even in February and the start of Ramadan, the souks were teeming and lots of places were fully booked.
“We did a three-hour food tour of the Medina with Get Your Guide and while stuffing ourselves on some fantastic street food I probably would never have had the courage to try on my own, our guide revealed the secrets of the city and its fascinating past.
“With six stops along the way, there was more than enough food and it cost just £35 each.
“My favourite stop was deep in the souks – a dish the locals love where beef is cooked in a dry frying pan with tomato, spices and eggs that is eaten by scraping the delicious dish straight from the pan.
“Also worth the money was our very special day in the Agafay Desert. An hour’s drive from the souks and we arrived at The White Camel, a luxury tented camp.
“After an afternoon of dune buggy fun we watched the sun set with a drink by their infinitypoolbefore indulging in a fantastic four course meal.”
THREE brand new locations have been announced by an adult-only bowling franchise.
Known for its boutique bowling lanes, retro arcade games and lengthy cocktail menu, this venue turns into an adult playground after 7pm in most of its locations.
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Lane7 describes itself as an activity bar for adultsCredit: Lane7It will open three new branches in Edinburgh, Glasgow and LeedsCredit: Lane7
Lane7, which describes itself as an activity bar for adults, has revealed three new branches will open in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Leeds.
In Glasgow, Lane7 will take over a large event space underneath the central station which used to be the site of Platform, previously known as the Arches.
Since 2020, Edinburgh has enjoyed the bowling brand in its St James’ Quarter, making this recently announced site Lane7’s second location in the Scottish city.
But, the new Leeds site will mark the first Lane7 branch the northern city has seen.
According to a Lane7 spokesperson, Leeds has been “a long-held target city” for for one of their branches.
Lane7 is sure that “guests will be thrilled with the new 23,000sq ft location in the heart of the City Centre”.
Currently there are 24 locations across the country offering adults a variety of drinks, food and games such as arcade machines, darts, mini golf, curling, and beer pong.
Reviews from customers in other locations rave about the “awesome” gaming facilities and “buzzing” atmosphere suggesting these new hubs are much anticipated.
Construction for the three new branches is expected to begin at the end of March.
Lane7’s managing director Gavin Hughes hinted at the bowling giant potentially more locations later in the year.
He said: “We’ll be starting development of three new sites by the close of the first quarter, taking in some new locations and expanding further in others.
“We know 2026 is going to be another transformational year for the group.”
The village in Norfolk is known for its natural beauty, archaeological sites, coastal erosion and beautiful beach walks, but in the 19th century, it was also the home of alleged serial killer Jonathan Balls
12:46, 08 Jan 2026Updated 12:56, 08 Jan 2026
The village is home to a unique lighthouse(Image: GETTY)
Britain is dotted with charming villages and towns, but few harbour a sinister history quite like Happisburgh, a coastal village in Norfolk. While celebrated for its stunning scenery, archaeological treasures, dramatic coastal erosion and picturesque beach walks, the village was also home to Jonathan Balls during the 19th century.
Following his death in 1846, he was posthumously accused of murdering at least 22 individuals, predominantly family members, between 1824 and 1845 through poisoning.
Little is documented about Mr Balls’ earlier years before these alleged atrocities, though he was regarded as a “bad character” locally, having previously served time for minor offences.
Who was Jonathan Balls and what were his alleged crimes?
Mr Balls wed a woman called Elizabeth at some stage and fathered three daughters, who each went on to have children themselves. The family lived in poverty, depending on relief funds to survive.
Yet as Mr Balls aged, he became increasingly reliant on his relatives for financial assistance, which is thought to have driven him to systematically poison family members so their money would pass to him, reports the Express.
It’s understood that Mr Balls started purchasing substantial quantities of arsenic during the 1830s from neighbouring towns, using the excuse of a rodent problem at his property. The first questionable death was that of his daughter, Maria Lacey, aged 24, who is thought to have succumbed to mistreatment by her husband and an unidentified illness.
A year on, on Christmas Day in 1836, a tragic event occurred when Mr Balls’ granddaughter, Maria Green, who was just 13 months old, died under mysterious circumstances. This was followed by the death of Ann Peggs, aged 8, on June 7, 1839, and the deaths of 13-month-old Martha Green and her three year old brother, William, both on October 31, 1841. All three were Mr Balls’ grandchildren.
In the subsequent years, several members of Mr Balls’ family met with suspicious ends, including one of his children and one of his parents. Both died mysteriously after relocating from their home to live with him.
Despite the family’s neighbours calling for an inquest into the deaths on two separate occasions, no investigation was carried out. In September 1845, another tragedy struck when Mr Balls’ grandson, Samuel Green, passed away, followed by his ailing wife, Elizabeth, just four months later.
The last confirmed victim is believed to be his granddaughter, Elizabeth Anne Pestle, who died on April 17, 1846.
Three days following the death of Ms Pestle, Mr Balls also passed away at his residence in Happisburgh, succumbing to an illness. In the wake of his passing, local residents requested the area’s coroner, Mr Pilgrim, to exhume and reexamine the bodies for cause of death.
Eventually, Mr Pilgrim authorised the exhumation of both Mr Balls’ and Ms Pestle’s remains. The post-mortem examinations revealed a substantial amount of arsenic in both bodies, prompting further investigation into other family members.
Interviews were conducted with surviving relatives of Mr Balls and several servants employed at the property. One maid, Sarah Kerrison, alleged she had witnessed Mr Balls adding a suspicious white powder to a teacup, which he then served to his bedridden wife.
Her health deteriorated progressively, leading to her eventual demise. After tasting some food prepared in the household, the maid fell ill, exhibiting signs of poisoning.
The case garnered extensive media coverage and was even a topic of discussion in Parliament.
The village of Happisburgh
Despite its murky history, Happisburgh is a must-visit if you find yourself in Norfolk. This coastal village boasts some of the UK’s earliest known human footprints, a significant archaeological discovery that places early humans in Northern Europe.
Believed to be the oldest human footprints in the UK, they date back 800,000 years.
The village’s rugged coastline boasts some stunning walking trails, with the sandy beach staying peaceful all year round. It’s also dog-friendly year-round, making it an ideal destination for dog walkers keen to discover this dramatic coastline.
That said, visitors walking along the cliffs or beach are urged to take care due to the danger of coastal erosion. The cliffs are composed of glacial till, which has resulted in the loss of land and cliffs in recent years.
One of Happisburgh’s most recognisable landmarks is Happisburgh Lighthouse, which dates back to 1790, making it East Anglia’s oldest working lighthouse. It’s also Britain’s only independently operated lighthouse, offering stunning coastal views from 85 feet up.
The Hill House Inn is a dog-friendly local pub serving up classics such as fish and chips, alongside a warm atmosphere and welcoming vibe. The pub has earned a rating of 4.3 out of five on Google, with one reviewer describing it as the “kind of pub you dream of stumbling into on a windswept Norfolk day”.
The review, from Neil, said: “The Hill House Inn in Happisburgh is the kind of pub you dream of stumbling into on a windswept Norfolk day. Perched not far from the cliffs, it has that mix of cosy charm and a bit of history woven into the beams.
“Inside, it feels like the sort of place where smugglers probably once traded contraband rum under the table while pretending to just be ‘popping in for a pint’. The ale is well-kept, the food hearty, and the welcome as warm as the fire in winter.”
Another review from Patricia added: “My first time visiting the inn. A lovely, typical village pub. Dog-friendly, with friendly staff. Nice sandwich, I had ham on the bone, and my friend had salmon, with chips and salad plus two coffees. Reasonable price too.”
Alternatively, there’s Smallsticks Cafe at Cart Gap Beach, located slightly further along the coast from Happisburgh beach. The cafe offers everything from coffee, cake and sandwiches to fish and chips and a full English breakfast.
This friendly, family-run establishment has earned a rating of 4.6 out of five on TripAdvisor, with visitors praising both the staff and the delicious food on offer.
One reviewer said: “We ended up here five times during our week in Norfolk! It was simply outstanding and so fabulous! The menu was great, such a fabulous choice, and the hardest thing was choosing what to eat! The whitebait was awesome and absolutely delicious, and cooked to perfection! Food was well-presented and cooked perfectly! Staff were so warm and friendly and so polite and true ambassadors to the establishment! ! ! Prices were fantastic and certainly won’t dent a hole in your wallet! So doggy friendly and the toilets were spotless!”
Another individual commented: “Very welcoming and the coffee and cake we had were lovely. Very friendly staff and a very pleasant way to spend an hour. Didn’t eat the cooked food, but what we saw looked very nice.”
The main ingredient in lomo saltado, the juicy, stir-fried comfort dish of my childhood, only takes a minute to cook. It can go by in such a flash that you can miss it if you’re not paying attention, so I always made sure to watch for that moment when the flames go up.
I remember standing in rapt attention at the edge of the stovetop as my mom tossed fresh, thinly sliced beef into an oiled pan set on maximum heat. The steak hissed and leaped in a dramatic dance as flames licked the pan from underneath. My mom turned to me and said, “This is why it’s called lomo saltado: the lomo is the steak, and watch how it’s saltando — jumping.”
“The secret is in the smoke,” says Miriam Ramirez, owner of Lonzo’s Restaurant in Culver City. “When you cook lomo saltado, the room should be filled with the smell of smoke. I remember getting it for lunch in Peru and thinking, ‘Oh no, my hair smells like smoke!’ But that’s how I knew it would be good.”
Lomo saltado consists of tomato, onion and bell pepper, seared with steak, traditionally in a wok, and served with sides of rice and potato fries. Peruvians call soy sauce, which is used generously in the dish, “sillao” (pronounced see-yow).
Newcomers to Peruvian cuisine might be surprised to find that soy sauce has a major place in recipes. My Peruvian family always says that in any good meat dish, sillao is the secret ingredient.
“When the dish is already so simple, every ingredient matters,” Ramirez says.
“See-yow” is also the pronunciation for soy sauce in Cantonese. Understanding how a Cantonese word entered Peru’s lingo is a long historical lesson that can be best explained by another Chinese-Peruvian word: chifa. Chifa, which comes from the Mandarin word “chīfàn,” meaning to eat, describes the thriving Chinese-Peruvian fusion cuisine and indirectly, the immigrant history of Peru.
According to researcher Patricia Palma, Chinese immigrants arrived in Peru in the mid-19th century, as laborers after the abolishment of slavery created a demand for cheap labor. As this population grew over the years, Chinese-Peruvian descendants carved out a niche in chifa that reflected their heritage alongside centuries-old Peruvian staples.
“L.A. is so diverse and that’s why I think Peruvian food draws people in. It has a multicultural identity too,” says Benny Gomez, owner of Rosty Peruvian Food in Highland Park. “There’s Chinese and Japanese communities who identify with the Asian influence but also Mexican people who are seeing a different type of Latino food.”
Peru’s lomo saltado is not only a beautiful marriage of the two cultures, but a perfectly balanced ode to each culture’s culinary traditions: Peru is reflected in the potatoes, aji amarillo and bell pepper, and China in the stir-fry technique and of course, the sillao.
“Peruvian food has 14,000 years of history,” says Ignacio Barrios Jacobs, lead chef of Merka Saltao in Culver City. “I think [lomo saltado] holds the story of Chinese immigrants who were cooking their food for people who said, ‘this needs my potato and chile peppers.’”
In Culver City, East Hollywood, and the San Fernando Valley, Peruvian restaurants are combining traditional flavors with distinctly Angeleno flair, like saltado burritos or California oak wood-fired rotisserie chicken.
“When my dad opened his Peruvian restaurant 30 years ago, Peruvian was not popular at all in L.A.,” says Dennis Tamashiro, owner of Mario’s Peruvian and Seafood. “Now, people are paying attention, because it proves that it’s unique.”
Here are eight takes on lomo saltado to try in Los Angeles, from classic versions that remind me of home, to creative takes that make the dishes distinctly L.A.
Travel expert Megan duBois has spent more than 15 years sailing the seas on different cruise lines – and she says there are some things she will ‘never buy’ as they aren’t worth the price
A travel expert says she will never buy five things while on a ship(Image: Getty Images)
A seasoned cruiser who has embarked on more than 50 voyages has revealed the items she would “never buy” whilst aboard a ship. Travel guru Megan duBois has clocked up over 15 years exploring the oceans on various cruise lines.
However, Megan insists there are certain “experiences and extras” she simply refuses to pay for, as she believes they “aren’t worth the price”. From lavish spa treatments to basic keepsakes, Megan reckons there are numerous ways to pocket some savings during your getaway.
Additionally, many cruise companies mandate that all passengers sharing a cabin must purchase the same package, according to Megan. As somebody who rarely drinks alcohol, Megan maintains the package simply doesn’t justify the expense.
Writing in BusinessInsider, she explained: “I stick to ordering my beverages à la carte. It saves me money and makes me really think about what I’m ordering.”
Whilst numerous cruise-goers might be tempted to indulge in pampering aboard their vessel, Megan reveals she bypasses the salon and arranges her preferred beauty treatments before boarding day. She notes that ships frequently charge “premium, much higher” rates compared to those on land.
She also relishes the sensation of stepping onto the ship “looking and feeling great”. The experienced voyager now steers clear of room service as well, unless it comes complimentary, naturally.
In recent times, she’s observed a surge in the number of trips that charge for food delivery. As a result, Megan now prefers to venture out to the buffet or dining halls.
She elaborates: “If I really want to eat in my cabin because I need some downtime or want to watch a movie, I ask the staff if there are any take-out options available.”
Another money-saving trick Megan employs is bypassing the souvenir lanyard. Many cruisers often find themselves shelling out for a lanyard to keep their crucial room key within easy reach.
These typically also serve as your ID and payment card on board the ship. However, instead of buying one, Megan has taken to storing her key card in her phone case so it’s always at hand.
Lastly, Megan reveals she steers clear of booking excursions through her cruise line. She does concede that booking via the cruise line ensures the ship will usually wait if you’re running behind schedule.
This implies that if you’re considering booking your excursions through a third-party, then you need to ensure you return with ample time to spare.
Megan said: “I like to explore the ports on my own or with a third-party excursion company. These excursions are typically more affordable and offer comparable experiences, and I always read a lot of reviews before booking.
A warning has been issued for visitors to the Spanish island of Tenerife, which is situated off the coast of West Africa and is known for its excellent, sunny weather throughout the year
The warnings signs have been put up in busy areas(Image: AFP via Getty Images)
New warning signs directed at British tourists have appeared in Tenerife.
The Spanish island, situated off the coast of West Africa and known for its excellent, sunny weather throughout the year, is hugely popular with UK residents. The Canary Islands overall recorded an extraordinary year in 2024, with nearly 18 million visitors – an annual increase of 10%.
The biggest pull is Tenerife, which attracted more than 6.2 million international tourists and over 900,000 domestic visitors. British visitors are the dominant force on the island, sending 2.8 million sunseekers in 2024 – three times more than those from Germany.
While there’s plenty to love about Tenerife, including its 20C plus January weather, miles of sandy coastline and cheap bars, there is a downside to the island. Holidaymakers can find themselves the victim of pickpockets and muggers.
Now, British tourists visiting the most popular holiday hotspots in Tenerife are being warned about pickpockets after an increase in muggings and robberies. New signs have been put out on pavements to warn visitors about the risks. Messages are also being sent out to hundreds of thousands of social network users.
Have you had a holiday in Tenerife go wrong? Email webtravel@reachplc.com
The warnings apply to favourite destinations in the south of Tenerife, including Los Cristianos and Playa de las Americas, as well as Puerto Colón, Puerto Santiago and Los Gigantes. Several Facebook communities are now being used to report such crimes, with photographs of alleged pickpockets shared, and risk points are identified.
Although hard figures are not available, there is an anecdotal suggestion that theft cases are on the rise in certain parts of Tenerife. One of the most notable areas is the vicinity of English pubs in Los Cristianos, particularly San Francisco Avenue, which is known for being a high-risk location, especially at night and during periods of high visitor concentration.
On one Facebook group, a user recently recounted: “Two pickpockets in Los Cristianos were surprised and arrested by my husband when they tried to steal a woman’s purse”, describing a spontaneous intervention to stop a robbery in the middle of a public road. Other reports mention stolen cell phones, hotel room cards and wallets.
Some car rental companies in the south have begun to incorporate warning messages aimed at their customers as a preventive measure. These companies recommend that their customers carry out practices to reduce the risk of theft, such as not to leaving mobile phones on tables, avoiding carrying wallets with large amounts of money and choosing to carry only cash and essential cards.
They also suggest the use of fanny packs, carrying bags on the front of the body and not leaving valuables inside vehicles.
During a nine-month period last year, reported crime rates in the Canary Islands increased by 3.3% compared to the same months in 2024, according to the Ministry of the Interior. The archipelago ended the first nine months of the year with 83,358 criminal offences, compared to 80,707 in the same period in 2024.
The report highlighted a significant increase in property-related crimes, with 1,467 violent robberies clocked (+12.8%) and 21,889 thefts (+3.5%), Tenerife Weekly reported.
I’ve heard you can even spot dolphins amongst the waves if you’re lucky.
– Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter
Whitesands Bay, Scotland
A gentle curve of fine, clean sand offers peace and seclusion in this great spot near Dunbar in Lothian.
Perfect for morning strolls as it is east-facing and gets the best of the early sunshine.
Most read in Best of British
With rockpools at low tide and backed by grasslands of wild flowers it’s a perfect spot for walking the dogs.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Kennack Sands, Cornwall
Cornwall is full of fantastic beaches, and one that I don’t think gets enough praise is Kennack Sands on the Lizard Coast.
The huge stretch of white sand has everything from rock pools and surfing, to beach streams and watersports.
The beachfront cafe serves excellent homemade food and huge crab sandwiches, and it’s a short drive to Ann’s pasties in Heston – arguably the best pasties in the whole of Cornwall.
– Caroline McGuire, Head of Travel (Digital)
West Sands Beach, Scotland
You’ll instantly recognise this wide stretch of sands as it featured in the opening scenes of Chariots of Fire.
The Scottish city may be best known for its university, but there’s plenty to enjoy on the beach as well as views of the famous St Andrew’s Golf Club.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Crackington Haven, Cornwall
Tucked between a road and two cliffs, Crackington Haven is one that you have to know about to find.
Its secluded location means there isn’t much else to do there apart from catch some waves with the other surfers.
Warm up at the drink shack, where you’ll find the showers, or head to The Coombe Barton Inn for a hearty roast dinner.
– Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor
Southwold Beach
I’ve been visiting Southwold for years, the sandy beach always draws me back whether it be summer or winter.
You can take a stroll to see the multi-coloured beach huts, as well as the traditional amusement arcades on the pier.
The town has great shops as well as an Adnams brewery – you can go and experience tastings and tours too.
When it comes to enjoying the classic seaside fish and chips, make sure to head out of town to the harbour where you can pick some up at the Sole Bay Fish Company.
– Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter
Walberswick Beach, Suffolk
Nature lovers will enjoy this picturesque spot just a short stroll from the Suffolk town of Southwold.
Backed by sand dunes it is bordered on both sides by a nature reserve with stunning marsh and heathland.
It’s also known as the home of British crabbing and a visit could reward you with supper!
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Portobello Beach, Edinburgh
Edinburgh isn’t just a fantastic spot for a city break, it also has an amazing beach.
Portobello Beach is a popular spot and features a long stretch of golden sand, with a Victorian promenade running alongside it.
The waters are usually calmer here and quite shallow, which makes it an ideal spot for some paddling or wading.
Families can also enjoy a range of facilities such as a historic Victorian swimmingpool and lots of cosy cafes and bars.
– Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter
Portobello Beach is great if you are visiting the Scottish capitalCredit: Michael Schofield, News Group Newspapers Ltd
Thornham Beach, North Norfolk
Thornham Beach in North Norfolk is a favourite with dog-walkers and locals in the know.
Walk down a scenic coastal path through wild forests to reach a clearing of vast sea, sands and crisp blue skies.
It’s not the place for deckchairs or ice creams – but it’s certainly the place for hikes, birdwatching and letting the dog run wild.
It’s a great beach to escape to if you’re looking for total silence, broken only by wind and waves.
The nearby Lifeboat Inn is a cosy, traditional pub serving home-cooked food and local ales, overlooking the marshes.
– Jenna Stevens, Travel Writer
Barricane Beach, Devon
Exotic shells brought by the waves all the way from the Caribbean have been found gracing the golden sands of this beach at the northern end of Woolacombe in Devon.
Rocky outcrops are perfect for rockpooling and the waters are clear and calm in summer.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Barricane Beach is a small sheltered cove near Woolacombe in North DevonCredit: Alamy
North Beach, Tenby
Each summer growing up, I would visit Tenby to see family.
The small Welsh seaside town has a traditional charm to it and it is a great spot for those wanting to explore outside of England.
North Beach is one of a few great beaches in the area, but is ideal for all types of visitors.
For example, if you love history there is the harbour, known for its Georgian architecture and day trips to Caldey Island.
There is also Goscar Rock – a prominent rock in the bay – and watersports lovers will find plenty of activities.
– Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter
Sandgate Beach, Kent
The beach in Sandgate is often overlooked by tourists, who stay on the main strip in Folkestone.
Yet it also means it is where the locals go – so you can expect far fewer crowds.
Order an ice cream or coffee at the beach hut on the promenade, or a pint at the Ship Inn which has huge windows overlooking the ocean.
The high street is worth a stroll too, with cafes and vintage shops to explore.
– Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor
Thornham Beach is a great spot for dog walkers, says JennaCredit: Jenna Stevens
North Beach, St Annes
Backed by dunes between Blackpool and Lytham St Annes, at low tide there’s 300metres of clean, golden sands perfect for building sandcastles and playing beach games.
It’s strong sea breezes make it perfect for kite flyers and the dunes provide shelter for picnics.
St Anne’s itself has an elegant Victorian pier for summer strolls.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Sidmouth Beach
You can’t beat a trip to Devon in the height of summer, and one of my favourite spots is Sidmouth – you can head down to the shingle beach from the famous Jacob’s Ladder, a very steep set of steps.
Or if you don’t fancy it, head down the hill.
The only downside is the beach is shingle, so take something to lie on if you plan on sunbathing.
But it’s all worth it to take a dip in the cool and calm waters.
Later on, make sure to go to Ice Cream Paradise for a frozen treat.
– Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter
North Landing, North Yorkshire
An azure blue lagoon flanked by chalk cliffs, this natural cove near Flamborough in North Yorkshire has it all.
Soft sand, pebbles and rockpools at low tide – it is perfect for a spot of bird spotting with kittiwakes, puffins and cormorants regular visitors.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Chalk cliffs line North Landing beachCredit: Alamy
Walpole Bay, Kent
Having one of the few sandy beaches in Kent, the crowds in Margate can be overwhelming.
So join the locals over in Walpole Bay, an easy walk through Cliftonville (named the UK’s trendiest neighbourhood by Time Out this year).
Not only is it quieter than the main sands, but it is home to the huge Walpole Bay Lido, one of the biggest in Europe.
Time it right and you can pop into the on-site sauna to warm up.
– Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor
Old Hunstanton, Norfolk
Thousands flock to the Victorian seaside town of Hunstanton in Norfolk each year – famous for its soapbox derby and huge beachfront arcade Yet Old Hunstanton Beach is the quieter, prettier sibling of its tourist-heavy neighbour just a 15-minute walk away.
Here you can walk beside striped red and white cliffs or through thick pine forest to stretches of soft golden sand.
Plus, there’s a laid-back beach cafe which is dog-friendly and serves a smashing full English breakfast.
My favourite time to visit though is the early evening, finding a dune to perch on to watch Norfolk’s famous pinksky sunsets.
– Jenna Stevens, Travel Writer
Jenna rates Old Hunstantan beach which is in a Victorian seaside town with a beachfront arcadeCredit: Jenna StevensSidmouth Beach in Devon is shingle beach, ideal for seeing clear watersCredit: Getty
Presipe Bay, Pembrokeshire
Check the tide times before setting off for this pretty Pembrokeshire beach.
When the tide is out a stretch of golden sand is revealed, accessed via 162 steep steps.
Surrounded by rich red sandstone cliffs, there’s treasures to be picked up brought in by every tide as the area is known for its fossils.
– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel
Brighton
An oldie but goodie, can you ever go wrong with Brighton?
There’s plenty of space to sunbathe, you can join other swimmers for a paddle in the water.
Not to mention there’s plenty of bars and cafes underneath the arches.
You can explore Brighton Palace Pier too which has arcades, rides and little pit stops for ice cream, candy floss and fish and chips.
If you fancy a walk, head across to Hove and make sure to stop in at Rockwater for an Aperol Spritz.
– Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter
The much loved Brighton Beach is perfect for day trips from London, says AliceCredit: Alice Penwill
Dungeness, Kent
Dungeness in Kent is the beach version of Marmite.
Once known as the UK’s only desert, thanks to the lack of rainfall, its shingle shoreline is incredibly bleak thanks to the backdrop of the nuclear power station.
But this has its pros – mainly that only a handful of small cabins were ever built on the vast beach at the tip of Romney Marsh.
Still now, the only things aside from the power station are some small cabins, a lifeguard station, a fish shack, the Britannia Inn pub, two lighthouses, a miniature railway, and numerous fishing boats.
As a result, it has developed a cult following – the renowned filmmaker Drek Jarman had a cottage there and Ed Sheeran is now rumoured to be a homeowner too.
I love it in the summer, when we can have a long walk along the never-ending pebbles and a pint in the Britannia, but I love it even more in winter, when the waves smash against the shore and you’re forced to shelter from gusts of wind behind fishing boats.
– Caroline McGuire, Head of Travel (digital)
Deal Beach, Kent
Deal remains one of the more popular seaside towns in Kent but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a trip.
The huge pier takes you to much-loved Deal Kitchen, where you can grab a bite to eat with views of the beach but with some protection from the winds.
And the beach itself is huge, stretching miles while peppered with arcades, art galleries and pubs along the way.
It’s easy to get to as well, with a 90 minute direct train from London.
– Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor
Deal remains one of the more popular seaside towns in KentCredit: GettyCrackington Haven is ideal for those who want a quiet spotCredit: Alamy
Shoe Bay, Eilean Shona, Scotland
On a remote island in the Inner Hebrides, you will find Shoe Bay.
This beach is unlike any other I have seen in the UK, with white soft sand and crystal clear waters, that sit still.
I found that it felt more like being somewhere tropical, than Scotland.
People staying on the island can visit the beach, which means it is super remote and quiet – essentially you get the beach to yourself.
It is the ideal spot for spotting local wildlife like seals and having a picnic.
– Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter
Shoe Bay on Eilean Shona in Scotland has soft white sandCredit: @goodcompany.group @konrad.j.borkowski
Porthcurnick, Cornwall
I’m going to go out on a limb and say that Porthcurnick in Cornwall has the UK’s best beach cafe.
The Hidden Hut, which has a huge Instagram following and a very successful cookbook serves everything from Indian food to cheese toasties, tomato soup and Moroccan tagine – and it is ALL excellent.
I would happily do a one-hour detour simply to get my lunch from there.
But not only that, Porthcurnick is a fantastic beach – sheltered by cliffs on either side, it has a decent expanse of sand (not so large that you’ll worry about losing your kids) and a stream running through it that it keeps all children occupied for hours, digging dams and moats.
Great food and free childcare from mother nature? Unbeatable.
– Caroline McGuire, Head of Travel (Digital)
London Thames Beach
Londoners need not fret, there is a beach right on your doorstep.
Head down to the Founder’s Arms pub on the Thames between the Tate Modern and Blackfriars Station and at low tide you will find a small beach.
The sand is even golden, surprisingly.
It is a great spot to feel like you’re getting a little beachy escape in the middle of the city.
And thanks to being right next to the pub, you can grab a tipple too.
– Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter
There’s a beach on the River Thames in London between the Tate Modern and Blackfriars Station, says CyannCredit: Not known, clear with picture desk
Robin Hood’s Bay, Yorkshire
Perched atop a craggy cliff, overlooking a dinky shore, Robin Hood’s Bay seems like something from a fiction tale or a North Yorkshire postcard.
In summer, you’ll find dogs sprinting along the sands, while owners tuck into fresh crab sandwiches from the beachside hut and little ones fish for treasures in the rock pools.
I prefer the village in winter, though, when the weather takes a turn and nature comes alive with the grassy dunes dancing in the wind and moody waves thrashing on the rocks.
– Sophie Swietochowski, Assistant Travel Editor
Lee Bay Beach, North Devon
Lee Bay Beach in the village of Lee is exactly what I picture when I imagine the Famous Five going on an expedition, with a picnic bag stuffed with ginger beer and boiled eggs.
The tiny bay at the edge of the very picturesque village is quintessential English coast – the kind without arcades and chippies.
It’s the north coast of Devon, so nice and choppy – a change from the southern side.
The beach is made even better by the fact that the Grampus, an excellent local pub is just a few minute’s walk up a winding lane.
It’s also the perfect base for tackling the Cheviot Hills walking trails in Northumberland National Park
08:00, 08 Jan 2026Updated 08:14, 08 Jan 2026
The charming town sits on the edge of the Northumberland National Park(Image: godrick via Getty Images)
Hidden away in Northumberland lies a treasured town, providing the perfect stopping point for those tackling this beloved UK walking route.
Wooler is positioned right on the edge of Northumberland’s stunning National Park, consequently welcoming numerous visitors seeking essential rest between their outdoor pursuits. This market town boasts various traditional shops, pubs and cafés providing ideal sanctuary for walkers, whilst still maintaining that immersive countryside atmosphere. The structures forming this charming town originate from the 1700s and 1800s, lending it that warm, distinctly English character. These include historic establishments such as The Black Bull Inn, The Anchor Inn and The Angel Inn, all earning excellent customer feedback.
One TripAdvisor reviewer declared the Black Bull as “the place to stay” in Wooler, whilst another said: “A great place to stay, a friendly locals’ pub. Excellent food and drink, and the rooms are clean. All the staff are very friendly. Lots to see in the area.” Part of its appeal stems from the region’s commitment to preserving its heritage and traditions, demonstrated through their yearly Glendale Show, an occasion that has occurred for the past 130 years.
Featuring fairground attractions, live entertainment, regional cuisine and numerous activities, the community genuinely unites to create an enjoyable, welcoming day out for families. What makes the town so handy is its brilliant position, nestled right next to the dramatic Cheviot Hills, which draws walkers and cyclists from far and wide.
The route features babbling brooks and deep gorges that provide breathtaking panoramas of Northumberland, including massive cascading waterfalls. The Cheviot rises majestically as the loftiest peak across the entire Northumberland National Park, reaching 815 metres, and presents quite a demanding climb.
On clear days, it’s believed you can gaze out towards vistas stretching as far as the Lake District, with some even claiming Edinburgh comes into view. One walker shared their experience, writing “Wooler provides wonderful views of, and open access to, the Cheviot Hills. Overlapping the border between England and Scotland, you are provided with mile upon mile of open moorland together with the general ability to roam across the countryside. Truly, the Cheviots are made for walking, and boy, we did.”
Another said it was “perhaps England’s loveliest place”. They added: “There are plenty of beautiful places in our country, but the Cheviots have something special. On a walk up the hills or along the valleys, you can find yourselves alone for much of the day to enjoy the fabulous, peaceful scenery. It’s a place to lose yourself and take in the sweetest of air.”
Adding to its appeal for your adventures, Wooler is connected to the links of Morpeth and Coldstream along the Scottish Borders via the A697. It can take a mere 25 minutes to travel from the town over to Scotland.
Venture slightly away from the usual tourist routes and you’ll discover this charming town, perfect for a peaceful coastal retreat, boasting picturesque strolls and breathtaking vistas.
Whitehead presents all the appeal of a Victorian seaside resort, featuring period architecture and meandering pathways that overlook the tranquil azure waters. Like any worthwhile destination, it boasts an array of delightful bakeries, cafés and public houses, all providing refreshments and a welcome break after a day spent discovering the coastline.
However, the Lighthouse Bistro and Bakehouse truly stands apart from the rest, earning the top spot for dining on TripAdvisor in the locality. Patrons keep returning for the delicious seafood chowder, fresh bakes and the lovely panoramas whilst enjoying a drink overlooking the ocean during summer months.
One delighted visitor said: “What a great find! This bakery/restaurant is excellent. We each had a delicious bowl of soup accompanied by freshly baked bread. Perfect lunch after our Blackhead Beach walk.”
Outdoor enthusiasts frequently find themselves drawn to explore this region, renowned for its trails, including the legendary Gobbins Cliff Path. Rich in heritage, this route offers more than simply a stroll but rather a voyage through the ages, where you’ll encounter all the natural forces and feel more connected to the ocean than ever.
You can peer down into the thundering waters of the North Passage whilst standing on a metal bridge suspended between clifftops, providing unparalleled panoramas. A passionate adventurer documented their visit on TripAdvisor, saying: “The views are spectacular, and the history is so interesting. Keep your eyes open in the water – we saw several seals in the water. “
The location is temporarily shut following recent rockfall, though it’s expected to welcome visitors back shortly. However, there are numerous other routes to appreciate the stunning Northern Irish coast, such as the Blackhead Path.
Renowned for its charming white lighthouse backdrop, this route attracts walkers of all kinds, being a manageable trail suitable for various fitness levels. One hiker said: “You’ll enjoy stunning views across Belfast Lough of North Down, Scotland and nearby islands. You can walk up to the lighthouse in a circular route – through the caves and up the back steps – or take a left up across the Golden Steps. Incredible views and all free!”.
Railway enthusiasts or those seeking educational experiences should definitely visit Whitehead Railway Museum. Here, guests can climb aboard a locomotive featuring a 140 year old engine and enter a genuine 1950s carriage, all maintained by the Railway Preservation Society of Ireland’s collection.
Punters can wander through the venue independently or absorb fascinating insights from the knowledgeable staff stationed at the museum. When the weather’s playing up, it’s a perfect spot for some indoor entertainment. One visitor confessed they “nearly didn’t call in” but were “so glad” they did, even expressing a wish to have allocated more time.
This idyllic village offers a peaceful escape from bustling crowds while still being conveniently accessible for travellers.
Head here for your next peaceful getaway(Image: 2026 The Archbishops’ Council)
A stunning village tucked away in East Yorkshire is the hidden treasure you need to discover for the ultimate weekend retreat.
Often overlooked in favour of the more renowned Yorkshire regions like North York Moors and the Dales, this peaceful village brims with charm within its modest confines – making it a prime choice for your next UK staycation.
Nestled between Pocklington and Driffield, this idyllic village offers a serene escape from bustling crowds while still being conveniently accessible for travellers.
Huggate village in East Yorkshire is often touted as the highest village on the Yorkshire Wolds, sitting approximately 558 feet above sea level. However, the nearby village of Fridaythorpe also frequently stakes this claim.
Situated 13 miles north-west of Beverley and nine miles west of Driffield, this petite village boasts another unique distinction: it’s home to one of England’s deepest wells, plunging 116 yards deep. It was reportedly the primary water source for the village’s inhabitants before modern systems were introduced, reports Yorkshire Live.
Another must-see attraction in this captivating village is St Mary’s Church. This 12th-century church, a Grade I Listed building – a rarity for a High Wold church – features a towering, commanding spire that can be seen from miles around.
The graveyard offers breathtaking panoramas across the Wolds, whilst the heritage-listed village War Memorial stands proudly on the southern flank at the church entrance. This memorial serves as a tribute to Huggate’s thriving community and their spirited nature, having been built following a fundraising drive by local villagers.
Both Huggate and St Mary’s Church have featured as subjects in two artworks by celebrated painter David Hockney.
Yet arguably the most celebrated aspect of Huggate village is its circular route, which draws walkers and ramblers from throughout the nation annually. In fact, this East Yorkshire walking path previously secured a spot in The Times’ top 20 “best walks” nationwide.
Whilst the Huggate Circular might not claim the title of the Yorkshire Wolds’ most frequented trail, it has cultivated a devoted following through the years, thanks largely to its tranquil appeal and spectacular vistas. This uncomplicated four-mile loop proves ideal for novices and seasoned walkers alike who relish magnificent scenery in peaceful surroundings.
During this tranquil ramble, visitors can also savour the striking panoramas of Holme Dale and Horse Dale, whilst marvelling at the splendour of the Yorkshire Wolds’ limestone peaks. These picture-perfect undulating hills and valleys maintain their verdant appearance year-round, even during winter months, making this an excellent walking route for every season.
Those embarking on The Huggate circular hike will undoubtedly encounter several of the renowned poetry benches that embellish the Wolds Way. However, be mindful of the mud and rain during winter, and dress appropriately before setting out.
Just 3.7 miles from Huggate lies another hidden treasure: Waves and Time. This understated earthwork by artist Chris Drury takes the form of a colossal spiral, located at the intersection of three popular Wolds dry valleys – Bradeham Dale, Thixendale, and Worm Dale.
Enhanced by the stunning backdrop of panoramic blue skies, Waves and Time was crafted by digging a curving trough to a depth of roughly 400mm, followed by the formation of a curving mound approximately 500mm high using the soil excavated from the troughs.
Walking the almost-empty streets of this small seaside town near Clacton-on-Sea felt like a fever dream. Returning to London has never felt better
08:00, 08 Jan 2026Updated 08:22, 08 Jan 2026
This seaside town stood frozen in time as a tribute to WW2(Image: Emilia Randall)
Stepping off the train at Frinton-on-Sea and being greeted with a blackboard advertising fresh cream teas- without a vending machine in sight – it was clear I had travelled across the country, and back in time. Initially thinking it was maybe a 10 year jump – I was soon proven wrong.
Making the short walk from the station to the pub, I could hear war-time ditties blasting out of pet shops and brassy military anthems playing through charity shops sound systems. Inside were dust-coated frames of wartime front pages: “We Never Surrender.” On walking into the Frinton War Memorial club, or “the Mems”, it was apparent that the town stood frozen in time at the first VE day, a living memorial to World War Two.
The eyes of Queen Elizabeth II bore down on the royal blue velour seats of the pub, with its matching navy carpet. Union Jacks covered one wall with an altar-like construction standing underneath. A drum, fake plastic poppies and some nondescript trophies rested on top of a bookshelf. The contents of the shelf looked like someone had emptied out a grandad’s attic into it. One standout book was “Commando Call of Battle: The Best 10 Commando Comic Books ever!”
Despite blending in perfectly with the palette of Frinton, the way passersby’s eyes lingered on you for a second too long let you know they knew you weren’t one of them. This was palpable when walking into this club – it was a head turner in the true sense of the term. A wave of faces swung around to let you know they had sensed a newcomer. If this wasn’t enough – I then had to sign a form with my name, address, phone number, and my “contact” Pierre who had a temporary membership – a crumpled piece of paper which he had to present each time he walked in. In their defence – they may have just been territorial about their £5 pints.
My reason for the visit, the Frinton Summer Season, brought me the biggest culture shock. The run of summer plays, run for a week each, and are held in the magnolia pebble dash theatre just opposite the members club. Before the play, the audience, with an average age of 60, rose to sing the national anthem with their hands on their hearts.
Gasping for some fresh air and a change of scene, Pierre and I headed to the beach for a fish and chips, from Young’s Other Place. This came in at a steep £32 for one small and one large battered cod and chips and mushy peas. Although in a welcome change ID was not needed for a chippy tea – ketchup did have to be purchased by the bottle.
Getting back on the air-conditioned train to Liverpool Street felt like a rush of relief to the nervous system and watching the people of Bethnal Green look through me as I walked back to my flat had never felt more welcome. Even if it was perfumed with the stench of hot summer drains, it felt like I was finally back in 2025.
Derbyshire’s Peak District offers one of the UK’s most spectacular winter walks, with this 517m summit near Castleton village providing panoramic views across snow-covered countryside
08:00, 08 Jan 2026Updated 08:14, 08 Jan 2026
The ‘Shivering Mountain’ creates mini-hills which makes it a moderate hike in any weather(Image: john finney photography via Getty Images)
As snow blankets Derbyshire and frosty temperatures settle in, many are seeking ways to soak up the magical winter atmosphere, and this particular walk could be just the ticket.
Year-round, visitors flock from far and wide to tackle the ascent of Mam Tor, regardless of the weather. However, there’s something particularly enchanting about the trail during winter months, as its sweeping vistas allow you to witness the entire Derbyshire landscape draped in a delicate layer of snow. The peak is affectionately dubbed the ‘Mother Hill’, rising majestically to 517m and providing sweeping views across the surrounding countryside. What makes the walk particularly appealing is the variety of routes on offer, ranging in difficulty, with most beginning in the picturesque nearby village of Castleton.
One walker shared their thoughts on TripAdvisor, noting: “This short walk offers an excellent chance to see unrivalled 360° panoramic views of the Peak District… It does not take long to complete the walk; we were there and back in 30 minutes. Quite a steep gradient to get to the top, but this is mainly on stone steps, so walking up is very safe. Once at the top, the views are spectacular and worth the effort to get there.”
Among the most favoured routes is the full circular walk, typically beginning from the National Trust car park at Mam Nick and continuing all the way to the summit. Walkers can traverse the ridge of the imposing hill and enjoy breathtaking views throughout their entire ascent.
Following the trek, one hiker described the vistas as nothing short of “breathtaking”. They did note, however, that most of the path is uphill, demanding a moderately challenging effort, though walkers are treated to glimpses of cattle and sheep grazing in the surrounding fields.
Another visitor shared: “I’ve been to Mam Tor on a number of occasions, and it’s one of the best hikes for me. The views are stunning, and there are routes for all types of walkers. Parking is easy to find, and it’s always a great experience to get out and get some fresh air. I’d definitely recommend getting out there if you can.”
During the winter months, walkers can anticipate stunning snow-blanketed scenery, especially along the Great Ridge. However, it’s wise to verify conditions beforehand, as ice and frost can make the terrain treacherous and necessitate proper winter hiking equipment.
Nestled conveniently at the foot of the hill lies the picturesque village of Castleton, brimming with pubs and cafés ideal for refuelling before or after a day’s ramble. For the perfect warm retreat, ramblers often pop in for a pint at establishments such as Ye Olde Nags Head, The George, The Bulls Head and the Old Club House.
The picturesque medieval village in North Yorkshire has stunning historic landmarks and beautiful vistas – perfect for a peaceful weekend escape.
08:00, 08 Jan 2026Updated 08:14, 08 Jan 2026
It’s the perfect getaway for those seeking tranquillity and beauty(Image: Appleton-le-Moors.com)
A charming village in Yorkshire is home to a hidden treasure that visitors simply can’t resist – it could be the ideal location for a quick escape. This tranquil village, tucked away in North Yorkshire’s stunning countryside, is being praised as the perfect place for a recharge, and it’s easy to see why.
The medieval village provides a unique window into England’s rich history, all while offering gorgeous attractions and breathtaking views. Appleton-le-Moors, a village and civil parish in the North York Moors National Park, is situated roughly two and a half miles north east of Kirkbymoorside. It’s also conveniently close to Pickering and seamlessly extends into the villages of Spaunton and Lastingham, located on the edge of the open moorland.
With a modest population of just 161 according to the 2021 census, Appleton-le-Moors’ name originates from an Old English term meaning ‘apple orchard’. It’s often cited as a near-perfect example of a planned village in the UK, boasting a lively community spirit. Perched on a hillside above a bend in the River Seven, Appleton-le-Moors is surrounded by fertile farmland crisscrossed by footpaths – making it the dream destination for walkers seeking picturesque landscapes.
Mentioned in the renowned Domesday Book, this ancient village has preserved its traditional medieval layout and remains a point of archaeological interest to this day. Appleton-le-Moors is a treasure trove of historical finds, with discoveries including a medieval oven, flint tools and Roman coins, reports Yorkshire Live.
Hidden gem church
The village is renowned for its historic building, Christ Church, often dubbed ‘the little gem of moorland churches’. This Grade I listed 19th-century church showcases exquisite craftsmanship and was designed by architect JL Pearson, the mastermind behind Britain’s famed Truro Cathedral. Christ Church exhibits Pearson’s signature French Gothic style, adorned with intricate decoration. Perhaps the church’s most celebrated feature is its Rose Window, echoing the design of the White Rose of York. The Rose Window’s stained-glass panels portray Christian virtues such as Hope, Faith, and Charity, and the church also boasts a tower crowned with a spire.
The Village Hall
Another notable landmark in Appleton-le-Moors is the Village Hall, also a creation of Pearson. The Victorian Gothic architect designed the Grade II listed building – formerly a school – and it was constructed in 1867 according to records. Major refurbishment works were carried out in the hall in 1999 and today, it stands as a focal point of the village, truly embodying rural life and serving as the heartbeat of the community. Visitors should not miss the village’s most famous spot, The Moors Inn, which has been operating as an inn since the 17th century.
The Reading Room
Another key structure in the historically rich village of Appleton-le-Moors is the Reading Room, erected in 1911 at the handsome cost of £75. The creation of the Reading Room is attributed to Joseph Page, a local butler living at Appleton Hall, who financed the construction. Its aim was to offer a place for villagers to mingle without succumbing to inebriation.
YouTuber content creators Ash and Kels stayed at one of Wetherspoon’s 56 hotels and were immediately surprised when they entered the venue through the pub
YouTubers Ash and Kels stayed at a Wetherspoon hotel for the first time(Image: Ash and Kels/YouTube)
A couple who stayed at a Wetherspoon hotel for the first time were left stunned by what they discovered. YouTube content creators Ash and Kels have travelled to 65 different countries after developing a love of travel.
But the pair had never stopped in a Wetherspoon hotel before. In fact, Ash says that until recently the couple never even realised that the budget pub chain offers a range of hotels across the nation.
After leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the boozer, the couple found themselves taken aback. Ash explained: “Straight away the noise of the pub has gone.”
Kels added: “Which is crazy because it’s literally there. The minute that door closes, silence.”
After navigating their way to the room, the pair were impressed with the amenities offered by the hotel room, as well as the feature wall decorated with Wetherspoon carpet.
Ash though wasn’t sure about the one on the floor. He said: “One thing I don’t actually like about this room is the carpet. One half of the carpet is this swirly pattern and the other half of the carpet are these striped, they should just have one or the other.”
The couple were however impressed with The Wyndham Arms overall. Kels said: “I really like it, I’m actually surprised with how modern it is. For £55, that’s an insane deal, I could stay in Wetherspoon’s hotels more, what a good idea.”
She added: “This room has been really lovely. It’s nice, it’s modern, it’s clean, I have no complaints really.
“I thought you would have been able to hear noise downstairs, especially considering how busy it was, but the minute you come through that first door, there’s no noise, it’s absolutely crazy.”
Wetherspoon’s hotels, much like the chain’s pubs, are traditionally based in historic buildings. Each hotel is either situated above or near one of the brand’s boozers, says its website.
Each hotel room comes complete with an en suite bathroom, complimentary tea and coffee making facilities, hair dryer, a flat-screen television and WiFi. The company’s hotels are only available to book via its app or website, something it claims gets customers “the best rate”.
The brand now boasts more than 50 hotels ranging from Birmingham to Wigan and Wembley to Dublin. Prices start from £55 a night.
Ulva House is a building site. There are workmen up ladders, hammering, plastering, but I leave my muddy walking boots by the door. There’s no central heating or hot water and Banjo Beale and his husband, Ro, have been camping out here for weeks, but he greets me, dazzlingly debonair, in a burnt orange beanie and fabulous Moroccan rug coat.
The 2022 winner of the BBC’s Interior Design Masters, who went on to front his own makeover show Designing the Hebrides, Banjo’s vibe is more exuberant Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen than quizzical Kevin McCloud. His latest project with Ro, the transformation of a derelict mansion on the small Hebridean island of Ulva into a boutique hotel, is the subject of a new six-part series, airing on BBC Scotland. I’m here for a preview of the finished rooms.
At just 7.5 miles long by 2.5 wide, Ulva, across a narrow strait from the Isle of Mull, was privately owned until recently. When it went on the market in 2018, a community buyout was orchestrated with the aim of attracting people back to Ulva and breathing new life into the island.
The first national census in 1841 recorded a population of 570 on the island, but largely owing to the brutal evictions of the Highland Clearances (when lairds forced crofting tenants off the land, replacing them with sheep), by 2015 there were just three adults and two children living here.
‘Arrested decay’ is the aesthetic Beale was aiming for when restoring Ulva House. Photograph: Shelley Richmond/Hello Halo/BBC Scotland
Community buyouts are becoming more common across Scotland, following the example of islands such as Eigg, empowering locals to take control of their futures and save local businesses. Numbers on Ulva have since swelled to 16 – the long-term target is 50 – after an advert was posted inviting applications for settlement here. Now, two Aussies (Banjo and Ro) and their wolfhound/greyhound cross, Grampa, are shining an even brighter spotlight on this remote island and helping to turn its fortunes around.
There has been a house here, once the seat of Clan Macquarie, since the 17th or 18th century. The original property was replaced by a Regency-style mansion at the beginning of the 19th century and, after a fire in the 1950s, it was rebuilt on the same footprint. The elegant, Grade B-listed, modernist mansion (with a nod to Arts and Crafts and Regency-influenced interiors) “has good bones” Banjo tells me, but it was derelict when they first stumbled upon it – and decided to plunge their savings into converting it into a hotel. They have secured a rent and repair lease and part of the profits will be ploughed back into the community. “The good thing about Ulva being community owned,” Banjo explains, “is we’re all in this together.”
The couple have also taken on a restaurant, The Boathouse, on Ulva, along with their business partner Sam
The pair first washed up in the Hebrides because Ro had a dream of becoming a cheesemaker and they had heard about Sgriob-ruadh (pronounced skrib-rooa), the dairy farm turned award-winning artisan cheesemaker on Mull. Ro learned how to make cheese while Banjo dipped his toe into interior design, doing up the striking Glass Barn cafe with its owner, Chris Reade; rummaging through the old farm buildings for things he could use – and sparking a new passion.
In the entrance hall of Ulva House, and curving up the grand staircase, a romantic mural features palm trees against a mountainous landscape, painted by the artist Melissa Wickham, while a profusion of towering pot plants is scattered around a bamboo-clad reception desk.
“Ro loves tropical stuff,” Banjo smiles. “I’m more classical. The project is a coming together of our styles. We want it to feel bohemian, whimsical.”
I follow him into the Library Bar. “I think I am a frustrated antiques dealer,” he admits as I admire the giant zinc and marble-top bar. “I’ve been collecting pieces for years; most of it’s in storage in a huge shed at the cheese farm.”
Bearnus Bothy is a five-mile hike from Ulva’s jetty along a coastal track
Belgium and France are his main hunting grounds; he found the Parisian pitch pine bar near Lyon, a steal at just £1,500. How they got it over from Mull on the tiny passenger ferry is another story. “It had to straddle the boat, then we used a horse float [horse trailer] to get it from the jetty (there are no cars on Ulva) and took the windows out to get it in.”
The library is opulent. You can imagine nursing a negroni and thumbing through the pages of some of the old books. Above the fireplace are framed plans Banjo found in a salvage yard, the date 1827, and signed “Macquarie”. Another Macquarie, he tells me, Major General Lachlan Macquarie (1762-1824), who was born on Ulva, became governor of New South Wales.
The light-infused Orangery or drawing room is a glorious space peppered with more pot plants, distressed urns, vintage rattan chairs, and unframed oils on the walls. The peeling pale green paint has been painstakingly preserved with a layer of varnish, a Miss Havisham-esque process he explains is called “arrested decay”.
The living quarters in Bearnus Bothy
When it opens later in the year, the seven-bedroom hotel will be open seasonally, with Ro doing the cooking. Until then, visitors to the island can take their pick between two off-grid bothies and a revamped hostel. Banjo’s makeover of Cragaig Bothy for the community featured in an episode of Designing the Hebrides. In fact, the hotel is his third project on Ulva. Last summer, he and Ro, along with a young farmer, charcuterie-maker and baker, Sam, also took on the lease of The Boathouse, the white waterfront restaurant by the jetty.
It became an instant hit, with people flocking over from Mull for platters of langoustine and lobster perched at picnic tables near the rocks, and meandering along the waymarked walking trails that crisscross the island.
I’m staying in Bearnus Bothy for the weekend, a five-mile hike from the jetty along a coastal track. It’s run by Andy and Yvette Primrose, who live off-grid on the neighbouring island of Gometra – an island off an island off an island. The couple are climbers – Yvette has tackled the north side of Everest and her book Expedition from the Backdoor is the tale of her 660-mile journey on foot from Shropshire to Knoydart, on the west coast of Scotland. They also run the island’s hostel.
The pretty, whitewashed bothy above the beach is a welcome sight after a squally walk – as is the basket full of logs and the pulley above the stove for drying wet clothes. There are just two rooms, a bedroom with old-fashioned twin beds topped with woollen blankets and a kitchen/diner, a bathroom with flushing toilet and Belfast sink in between. There’s also a tin bath, which can be filled with water heated on the wood-burning stove.
In front of the fire are two rocking chairs with tartan blankets. Lighting is by candles, tealights and battery-operated fairy lights. There are crocs and wellies by the door. A bookcase is stacked with novels, walking and wildlife guides and games to while away long evenings.
Flicking through the visitor book by candlelight, I read about Swallows and Amazons-style family adventures, swimming from the beach below the bothy, sailing trips and picnics. Inspired, I hike over to Gometra, accessed at low tide over the sand, at high tide over a footbridge, scouring the shoreline with binoculars and spotting seals basking on rocks and a family of otters playing in the water. Soaring high above is a hen harrier. There’s not another soul around.
Solitary rambles might soon be a thing of the past, of course, now that the island is being “re-peopled”. And, with a hotel opening on the horizon, the future for Ulva is starting to look brighter and a little busier.
Accommodation was provided by Bearnus Bothy (airbnb.co.uk), minimum two-night stay from £121. CalMac (calmac.co.uk) ferries sail from Lochaline on the Scottish mainland to Fishnish on Mull, from £6.50 return for foot passengers, £25.60 for a car. The Ulva foot passenger ferry costs £8 return for adults, £4 for children.
WHEN I ask my friends how much they think a week-long, round-trip cruise from Los Angeles to Mexico will be, all guesses are upwards of £3,000.
So their jaws drop when I reveal that my sailing is just £215 for seven days at a last-minute price – that’s just £30 a night (a sum that might not even get you three margaritas in London).
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The ship has a race track, swimming pools, and water slidesCredit: UnknownThere’s even a go-karting track on the shipCredit: Unknown
Norwegian Cruise Line‘s Mexican Riviera itinerary includes three sun-drenched, taco-packed port stops plus accommodation, food and entertainment.
Of course, it doesn’t come with flights so Brits will have to splash out on those to get to LA first.
Norwegian Bliss was built in 2018 and, although refurbished in 2025, doesn’t quite have the sparkling modernity of its newer siblings.
The 4,010-guest vessel (it’s the largest in the NCL fleet) has a darker, more traditional feel to it.
You won’t find any swanky technology like wearable keys or iPads in your room, nor any robots, sports courts or high-diving shows either.
Instead, daily entertainment is classic cruising with a lime-splash of retro.
Think balloon twisting workshops, fruit and vegetable carving demos, Pictionary, and all manner of game shows that even the lure of Cabo San Lucas’ iconic beaches can’t tempt some guests away from.
But crucially, they’re all free – as are the comedy acts, dance classes, live music, glow parties, musical theatre and more.
There are cosy sunbeds with views across the oceanCredit: Unknown
I can’t believe it when a Mr Sexy Legs contest starts up by the pool – have I time-travelled to the early noughties?
But it’s hugely popular and I can’t pull my eyes away as a parade of (far from youthful but deeply confident) men strut, squat, kick and lunge before ‘judges’.
It’s anything but sexy, though – no matter how hard the R&B vocals of Pony by Ginuwine try.
It’s not all cheesy activities. NCL’s standout attraction onboard is Bliss Speedway, a two-level go-karting race track on the top deck, complete with hairpin bends and high-up views.
I take a zoom around at sunset (£11 for 10 minutes) and blame the distractingly peachy pretty sky on how bad my driving is; Lewis Hamilton can safely keep his job.
Waterslides, meanwhile, deliver thrills gratis. I try the Aqua Racer water slide, whooshing past bright lights and chirpy colours as though I’m being flushed through a Skittles factory, before braving the Ocean Loops drop slide (and I mean braving – multiple people get stuck while I queue).
There are three speciality dining experiences on offer tooCredit: Unknown
For a different kind of liquid courage, NCL’s bargain drink package gets rave reviews during my Pacific voyage.
Currently, on seven to eight-day cruises, you can upgrade from just £119 per person and get unlimited premium spirits, cocktails, wines, draft beer and soft drinks (as well as three speciality dining experiences, Wi-Fi and excursion credits).
That’s just £17 a day – so perhaps its no surprise I see a couple brandishing a pint and a Prosecco between them at 8.15am.
The biggest explanations for the cantina-cheap fare on my Mexican Riviera cruise, though?
The price dropped as the departure date approached, and it applied to an Inside Cabin (which means no windows in your room).
What’s more, the holiday took place during shoulder season which was before the Christmas holidays.
This is when cruise lines slash prices to fill up cabins.
So if you want to find your own bargain break, remember to find older cruise ships and last-minute sailings to save the most pennies.
Other bargain deals currently include a five-night sailing on Norwegian Jade for £225pp, with stops in Mexico.
And we’ve rounded some purse pleasing cruises you can lock in for under £500 without having to hop on a plane from the UK.
You can sail on other ships like Cunard’s Queen Anne from £169pp
MSC Cruises has seven-night sailings from Southampton to Northern Europe, Iberia and Fjords sailings from Southampton from £399pp with up to 30 per cent off and extra loyalty savings.
Celebrity Cruisesfeatures Western Caribbean, Pacific Coastal and Southern Caribbean sailings from £349–£406pp with up to 75% off the second guest and up to £500 instant savings.
Celestyal Cruises has Greek Islands short breaks from £379pp, Arabian Gulf trips from £239pp and Desert Days itineraries from £459pp with reduced lead fares and inclusive perks.