TRAVEL

IF you loved dancing to tunes like Mamma Mia, Waterloo and Super Trouper at ABBA Voyage then you might be excited by this other potential avatar concert.

Another city has announced that it could see potential in starting its own experience based on four very famous Liverpudlian musicians.

ABBA Voyage started back in 2022 and at the time was met by some scepticism.

That was until visitors entered the purpose built arena and were so blown away that what started as a limited residency initially set for a few months, is still going strong today.

Now, Steve Rotheram the Liverpool City Region (LCR) mayor has revealed he believes a similar show in Liverpool could benefit it greatly – especially if The Beatles were at the forefront.

The band that rose to fame in the 60s could appear as avatars in a show funded by Liverpool’s visitor levy.

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The charge was initially introduced in 2025 as a £2 per night “City Visitor Charge” for overnight stays in certain hotels and serviced apartments.

Steve Rotheram said he had been “looking at ways” since then in which “we might be able to deliver something similar but not identical to the Abba Voyage experience in London“.

“Just imagine if we could do something that features perhaps a local four-piece beat combo that did okay from these parts?”

Mr Rotheram continued: “We could have an immersive experience so people would flock in to see them. It means the footfall would increase exponentially, it means that this would be an international destination of choice.

“You’d go here and then perhaps go to London, whereas currently a lot of people go to London and sometimes jump on a train to come here, so we want to change that dynamic and I think this will be one of the ways in which we do it.”

Having the show based on The Beatles would be a popular choice for Liverpool with each of the band members born and raised there.

Mr Rotheram hinted that the potential show could be funded by the current levy – and its replacement coming in 2027.

The new charge will come into play in two years time once the current scheme expires.

This will mean that all properties in the Liverpool city Region – including Airbnb – will be affected.

It could bring in lots of money for the city too – it was reported that ABBA Voyage generated over £100million in ticket sales in 2023 alone.

As a result, it contributed £1.4billion to the UK economy‘s turnover by late 2024.

And the Beatles are set for another revival ahead of the new films based on each of the band members.

Directed by Sam Mendes, it will see four films released based on the four members.

Paul Mescal will start as Paul McCartney, Barry Keoghan as Ringo Starr, Harris Dickinson as John Lennon and Joseph Quinn as George Harrison.

For more experiences in the UK, here’s how you can try out your very own Race Across the World.

And here’s more on the world-first gameshow attraction opening in the UK – with spin the wheel, music rounds and free prizes.

One writer tried the world-famous ABBA Voyage experience in the UK – here are her top tips & the best nearby bar…

Writer Hope Brotherton headed to ABBA Voyage earlier this year, here’s everything she loved about it – and the bar she found for pre-drinks…

She said: “I’m surrounded by sequinned jumpsuits, bright-pink feather boas and white go-go boots.

“It means I can be in just one place – the dance floor of Abba Voyage, the astonishing concert in London performed by CGI versions of the four bandmates in their Seventies glory days.

“The tech is so impressive, that it’s hard to believe the Swedish superstars aren’t really performing live on stage. I found my grasp on reality slipping even further when a real-life backing band appeared.

“I was mesmerised by every visual in the purpose-built venue, with a kaleidoscope of brightly coloured lights descending from the ceiling as Dancing Queen played.

“You can, of course, book seats but my friend Ellie and I preferred the standing tickets, where we had more than enough space to dance our hearts out to Mamma Mia and Waterloo.

“Getting in the right mood for a boogie was essential, and we had pre-show food and drinks at Stratford restaurant and bar The Print House – Jim & Tonic East to thank for our exuberance.

“It was then time for food and, to start, we shared the marinated prawns and a garlicky flatbread – both delicious.

“Aware of all the dancing ahead – it’s a marathon, not a sprint – I plumped for a parmigiana pizza, which totally hit the spot.

“Keen to sample a tipple from the on-site distillery, then I washed my main course down with a gin flight. Ambitious, I know – it came with three gins, my favourite being the Mediterranean.“

AN airline is launching its first flights from a major airport in the UK for the first time in decades.

Air France has confirmed it will start a new London to France route from London Gatwick Airport.

Two flights a day will run from London to Paris from March 29, 2026.

Flights will take off from London Gatwick Airport at 9:20am and 3:45pm.

The return flights from Paris to London Gatwick will be 10:30am and 5:10pm.

It joins the current London Heathrow to Paris flight route already operated by Air France.

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Gatwick chief commercial officer Jonathan Pollard said they were “thrilled” to offer more routes to Paris.

This was backed by Air France KLM UK and Ireland general manager Jrrome Salemi.

They added: “We are delighted to announce our new London Gatwick to Paris Charles de Gaulle service, further strengthening our commitment to the UK market. 

“We look forward to welcoming London Gatwick customers on board our flights and sharing the very best of Air France’s service, comfort and innovation.”

Air France operated from London Gatwick in the 1990s.

It was in 1996 that Air France teamed up with Pepsi to launch a blue-painted Air France Concorde.

It was backed by celebs including Andre Agassi, Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer.

However, the French flag carrier scrapped flights from the London airport in 2004.

It’s last ever flight from London Gatwick was in 2007, although this was via Brit Air.

Yet a number of other airlines are expanding at London Gatwick.

Jet2 is launching its first ever flights from the airport next year.

From March 2026, the tour operator will launch 29 new routes from London Gatwick across Europe and Africa.

And Virgin Atlantic could soon return to London Gatwick, after scrapping all flights from there during the pandemic.

Virgin boss Richard Branson said he would “twist arms” to return, with the airport being where they launched their first flight in 1984.

Here’s everything you need to know about Gatwick Airport’s second runway.

A wet Sunday evening turned into a joyous 90-minute stroll through stunning light displays, interactive installations and ethereal music at this beloved festive attraction

Embracing the Christmas spirit can be a bit of a challenge when you’re penning festive articles from September onwards. However, this past weekend, I decided to shelve my inner Grinch and head out into the chilly, drizzly Sunday in Cardiff to experience Christmas at Bute Park.

This event, now in its fifth year, is a light trail that has previously brought me joy. I must confess, my excitement for the installation, nestled in Cardiff’s beautiful city centre park beloved by locals and tourists alike, did start to fade after the first few years.

I found myself pondering, ‘How much can a light display in a park change year after year?’ While I still believe the most curmudgeonly of Grinches might agree with me, my visit to Christmas at Bute Park 2025 rekindled my yuletide cheer, reports Wales Online.

So last year, I opted out of the mile-long amble along the path that snakes through Cardiff’s verdant heart. I simply wasn’t feeling it. Fast forward to 2025, and the opportunity presented itself again. Let me tell you, I’m chuffed I seized it.

It was a delightful 90-minute journey that began in the rain, offered us a bit more precipitation, and an array of displays, interactive elements, and mesmerising light shows synchronised with hauntingly beautiful music that genuinely brightened my day.

The journey encompassed the twirling, sparkling fountains, Christmas Cascades, and Bubblicious – an interactive row of giant cylinders radiating neon colours that we all took turns tapping to select our preferred hue.

We encountered a neon grove and Dancing Dandelions – bursts of colour illuminating the gently swaying trees on a dark autumn evening.

Two installations by Welsh artists – Abercynon’s Ruby June Walker and Cardiff’s Patrick Richards – were truly stunning. Ruby’s Golau y Gaeaf (Winter’s Light) was a standout gothic window showcasing the traditions and symbols of a Welsh Christmas, including Mari Lwyd and Sion Corn.

It added a touch of folklore to the event, alongside one of my favourite two installations – the dragon, but more on that shortly.

Patrick’s Annwyl Siôn Corn (Dear Father Christmas) was a magical post box encircled by floating letters, inspired by children penning their wish lists to Father Christmas – a captivating sight amidst the natural surroundings.

The light installations that captivated me the most, made me marvel the most – allowed me to lose myself in the moment, were the Water Willows, lights cascading down the towering willow trees and dripping off their weeping branches. The sporadic specks of colourful lights transformed into a wave of colour, all synchronised with subtle, ethereal classical music.

As a die-hard Stranger Things fan, I was captivated by the enchanting lights and mystical aura of the willow stop. If I had a tree and some spare cash for the electricity bill, I’d love to recreate this spectacle in my own garden.

I’ve replayed the video of the Water Willows multiple times. Adding a dash of elegance were the chandeliers at Crystal Avenue – when viewed head-on, they resemble a massive snowflake. Simply stunning.

Walking through Delilah Ddraig’s lair, the ground was speckled with soft, glowing red-orange lights, casting a delightfully eerie glow on the final few stops before we ventured into the night.

It was an evening filled with festive cheer in the great outdoors. There’s something special about feeling raindrops on your face, tucking into a generous pot of cinnamon apple and pear crumble with custard, and witnessing the unbridled excitement of a thrilled six-year-old.

While not everyone may have a little one to accompany them, I believe those carrying a sense of wonder will thoroughly enjoy their visit to Christmas at Bute Park, regardless of their company.

Christmas at Bute Park is open until 31 December. For more details, including ticket purchases and information on inclusive evenings, visit www.christmasatbutepark.com.

You need to make sure you check before leaving

His Majesty’s Passport Office (HMPO) has issued a crucial message to British citizens planning a winter trip abroad. Prospective holidaymakers are urged to make an important check before jetting off, as it could save them a lot of hassle.

In a post to X, formerly Twitter, HMPO said: “Jetting off this winter? Don’t let your passport hold you back! Check your passport’s expiry date today. If you need to renew, it’s not too late to use our urgent services.”

Even if your passport appears in date, it is essential to check the specific entry requirements of your holiday destination to confirm its validity. For travel to Europe and Schengen countries, your passport must be issued within the last 10 years and remain valid for at least three months after your planned date of return.

Australia, China, Thailand and the United Arab Emirates also require that your passport is valid for at least six months from your entry date. Advice issued by the Post Office earlier this year explains: “Different countries have their own rules about passport validity. Some countries might ask that your passport’s valid for your whole time away and even a bit longer, sometimes up to six months.

“If you don’t check these rules, you could run into problems, like not being able to board your flight or being denied entry when you land.”

The most affordable way to obtain a passport is online through the Government’s website, costing £12.50 less than postal applications. Usually, the passport arrives within three weeks, although it may take longer if additional information or an interview is required.

In emergencies, travellers also have the option to apply for an urgent passport using the Government’s one-day premium service or one-week fast track scheme. Both schemes are subject to different criteria and cost more than the standard service.

The one-day premium option is for adults renewing an existing passport. Online applicants pay £222 or £235 for a 54-page frequent traveller passport. Following each application, an appointment will be scheduled, with the earliest booking available two days later.

The Government explains: “You’ll need to hand in your old passport at your appointment. Your new passport will be ready to collect from the passport office four hours after your appointment.”

The one-week fast track option is similarly available to anyone looking to renew their passport, as well as in these specific circumstances:

• You need to get a child’s passport
• You need to replace a lost, stolen or damaged passport
• You need to change the personal details on a passport (your name, place of birth or gender)

The fast track option is more economical, priced at £178 for an adult passport (£191 for a 54-page frequent traveller passport) and £145 for a child passport (or £158 for a 54-page frequent traveller passport). You can schedule an appointment as soon as the day after you submit your application. Typically, the passport arrives about a week later.

However, you are ineligible to apply for either service if you are outside the UK or applying for your first adult passport. The Government also adds: “If you’ve already applied for a passport and have not received it yet, do not pay for an urgent passport.

“You will not get your passport sooner and you will be charged a £32 admin fee for each additional application.”

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A HUGE new €1billion (£875million) attraction is launching in Europe and it includes a theme park based on DRACULA.

Dracula Land is set to open in Bucharest in Romania, one of the cheapest cities in Europe.

It hopes to become “the largest entertainment, retail, and technology destination on the continent, transforming the country into a new global entertainment hub”.

Being dubbed the Transylvanian Disneyland by local media, it includes a theme park, waterpark, thermal spa, shopping district, entertainment arena and a tech hub.

The main theme park will be set over 780,000sqm, with AI images suggesting what it could look like.

This will include six themed zones, with 40 attractions throughout – here is what we know about each land.

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Moonlit District

This is where guests will enter the park via a main street inspired by Bucharest.

Rides will include a Flying Theatre and a Transylvanian Railway, as well as carousels, drone shows and a Legend of Vlad walkthrough experience

There will also be shops and dining, which is open into the evening after the park closes.

The Family Kingdom

Another area called The Family Kingdom will have a “diverse range of vampire and supernatural creatures from global cultures”.

This will range from many of the Dracula myths as well as “Middle eastern Ghouls”.

Rides include a 4D cinema, as well as dark rides, toddler play zones and entertainment stage.

Transylvania

Named after the area of Dracula, Transylvania will be based on the famous legend.

Inside will be a traditional village as well as a forest, and is where the rollercoasters will be found.

As well as big rides, there will be dark rides, water rides and a playground.

Dracula’s Castle

The centre of the park is Dracula Castle – similar to Cinderella’s castle in Disneyland.

However guests will be able to explore the castle with ruins and maze, as well as go on a ‘bat coaster’.

A railway stop and boating on the lake will be some other attractions.

Port of New Orleans

Inspired by Mardi Gras, Port of New Orleans will swap from Romanian architecture to French.

A 4D cinema rollercoaster, as well as spinning rides and carnival games are part of the land.

London Town

The park will even have a UK themed land called London Town.

This will be the shopping area for souvenirs, with Victorian London inspirations.

Not only that but there will be a theatre, horse and carriage ride and “vampire hunter training”.

Outside of the theme park will also be a waterpark and thermal spa, which will be across 50,000sqm.

Inside will be 30 water attractions, and claims it will even have one of Europe‘s biggest wave pools.

Guests will be able to choose from three kinds of accommodation, – the four-star Dracula Grand Hotel, as well as the three star Dracula Family Hotel and Dracula Inn.

Between the three of them there will be around 1,200 rooms.

A luxury fashion and home shopping outlet as well as a ‘multi-functional arena’ for concerts and festivals are also part of the plans.

A racing track and motor park as well as a tech hub have been confirmed as well.

Dracula Land will also have its own “metaverse” with DraculaCoin native tokens, so people can visit from anywhere in the world.

It hopes to welcome three million guests a year.

Dragoș Dobrescu, founder of Dracula Land, said: “Dracula Land brings together everything I’ve learned in real estate: discipline, rigor, vision, and the ability to keep complex teams with very different specializations together. 

“But more importantly, it adds a story that gives meaning to every square meter built. 

“For me, Dracula Land is a national project—a symbol that Romania can and must build landmarks, not just buildings or simple real estate projects.”

An official opening date is yet to be confirmed, nor ticket prices but the first phase could launch by 2027.

However, it will be easy to get to for Brits, being just 20 minutes from Bucharest Airport.

Ryanair currently has £15 flights to the Romanian city from the UK.

THE Cotswolds are one of the most popular spots in the country, especially during the summer months.

Yet some beautiful villages are being inundated with tourists – so a new tourist charge is set to be introduced.

It’s estimated that over 35million people head to the Cotswolds every year to see villages adorned with pretty cobbled cottages and quaint shops.

But the flood of tourists does mean that locals suffer and so a new visitor levy is being put in place at certain destinations to benefit those who live in the area.

One of these places is the village of Bourton-on-the-Water which is set to introduce a new parking fee – and a change to free parking hours.

Parking will be free before 10am at Rissington Road car park, rather than 8a.

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However, charges will apply until 8pm, rather than 6pm, so tourists will have to pay for an extra two hours later if staying the whole day.

The reason for the change in timings is to give residents easier access to village services in the morning and “accommodate the growing trend” of visitors staying later into the evening.

Paul Hodgkinson, cabinet member for health, culture and visitor experience, said: “I know first-hand the challenges the village faces during the tourist season.”

“This new approach is designed to give something back to residents and boost the money going back into the village.”

He added that earlier access would provide support to local shops and services.

Bourton-on-the-Water has had a tourism levy in place since 2021 – where some of the money made from parking fees goes towards local projects.

Cllr Paul Hodgkinson, cabinet member for health, culture, and visitor experience, added: “The levy in Bourton has funded important initiatives, including extra parking enforcement and the appointment of a village warden which are helping to alleviate some of the impacts of tourism on the village.”

Another village, Stow-on-the-Wold, which is just 8 minutes away, is also looking at doing the same.

Hodgkinson said that new charge would to bring “similar benefits for residents”.

The new Cotswold District Council strategy is due to run from this year until 2028.

Other measures include making parking in the district sustainable.

Plus, here is an English village that visitors call ‘a Cotswolds dream’ which has two of the country’s best hotels.

And check out this stunning Cotswolds village with its own sandy beach and lagoon – miles from the English seaside.

One Sun Writer says this Cotswolds town is always missed in favour of other prettier villages…

Deputy Travel Editor Kara Godfrey said: “My hometown in the Cotswolds is often passed over in favour of its more glamorous trendy neighbours. But that could soon be able to change after one of its hotels was recently named one of the best in the world.

“The World’s 50 Best Hotels announced last week named everything from five-star beach resorts to thousand-pound-a-night city stays. And while I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a few – such as The Peninsular in Hong Kong – one that also made the list was Estelle Manor.

“One of five in the UK to have made the list, the Witney hotel is now putting the town on the map. Having only opened in 2023, Estelle Manor has boomed in popularity.

“Earlier this summer, Eve Jobs – the daughter of Steve Jobs – celebrated a four day wedding event at the cost of £5million. Other celeb sightings include Kate Moss, as well as Alan Carr and Molly-Mae.

“Set on 85 acres of a parkland estate, the hotel is the sister to the private members club Maison Estelle in London. Some of the 108 rooms are in the Grade II listed house, while there are also Woodland Cabins.

“The hotel’s Eynsham Baths opened in last summer, while activities include archery, axe throwing, air rifle shooting and clay pigeon shooting.

“The town of Witney itself is worth a visit, and is often much quieter than its nearby neighbour Burford. There is the free-to-visit Witney Museum, while kids will love Cogges Manor Farm with pygmy goats to see.

“Grab some tea and cake at Hunters Cafe, before shopping at many of the independent stores such as Witney Antiques and Lily’s Attic.

“If you see huge queues, they are likely at Sandwich de Witney, a sandwich shop with overstuffed baguettes that always sells out by lunch.”

On a nippy Monday night at the Zebulon in Frogtown, a man wearing a Jason Voorhees T-shirt steps onto a purple-lighted stage and stands next to a drum set. Audience members, seated in neat rows and cradling cocktails, enthusiastically applaud.

Then they look toward a glowing projector screen. Some clutch their pens, ready to take notes.

“In cinema, three elements can move: objects, the camera itself and the audience’s point of attention,” Drew McClellan says to the crowd before showing an example on the projector screen. The clip is a memorable scene from Jordan’s Peele’s 2017 film, “Get Out,” when the protagonist (Daniel Kaluuya) goes out for a late-night smoke and sees the groundskeeper sprinting toward him — in the direction of the camera and the viewer — before abruptly changing direction at the last second.

During his talk, McClellan screened several movie clips to illustrate key points.

(Emil Ravelo / For The Times)

“Someone running at you full speed with perfect track form, you can’t tell me that’s not terrifying,” McClellan says laughing with the audience.

McClellan is an adjunct professor at the USC School of Cinematic Arts and the cinematic arts department chair at the Los Angeles County High School for the Arts (LACHSA). He’s presenting on two of the seven core visual components of cinema — tone and movement — as part of Lectures on Tap, an event series that turns neighborhood bars and venues into makeshift classrooms. Attendees hear thought-provoking talks from experts on wide-ranging topics such as Taylor Swift’s use of storytelling in her music, how AI technology is being used to detect cardiovascular diseases, the psychology of deception and the quest for alien megastructures — all in a fun, low-stakes environment. And rest assured: No grades are given. It’s a formula that’s been working.

“I hunted for these tickets,” says Noa Kretchmer, 30, who’s attended multiple Lectures on Tap events since it debuted in Los Angeles in August. “They sell out within less than an hour.”

Wife-and-husband duo Felecia and Ty Freely dreamed up Lectures on Tap last summer after moving to New York City where Ty was studying psychology at Columbia University. Hungry to find a community of people who were just as “nerdy” as they are, they decided to create a laidback space where people could enjoy engaging lectures typically reserved for college lecture halls and conferences.

Founders Felecia and Ty Freely pose for a photo with Drew McClellan (center) after his presentation.

(Emil Ravelo / For The Times)

“At the end of every lecture, people always come up to us and [say] “I hated college when I was in it, but now that I’m not, I would love to come to a lecture and have access to these experts without having to feel pressured to get a good grade,’” says Felecia, who makes “brainy content” on social media, like explaining the phenomenon of closed-eye visualizations.

Lectures on Tap, which also hosts events in San Francisco, Boston and Chicago, is the latest iteration of gatherings that pair alcoholic beverages with academic talks. Other similar events include Profs and Pints, which launched in 2017 in Washington, D.C., and Nerd Nite, which came to L.A. in 2011 and takes place at a brewery in Glendale. At a time when the federal government is moving closer to dismantling the U.S. Department of Education, AI is impacting people’s ability to think critically, attention spans are shrinking and literacy rates are down, events like Lectures on Tap are becoming more than just a place to learn about an interesting new topic.

“I think folks are passionate about keeping intellectualism alive especially in this age that is kind of demonizing that,” Felecia says. “We’re in the age of people not trusting experts so everyone out there who still does wants to be in a room with their people.”

“And there are a lot of them,” adds Ty. “It is actually alive and well, just maybe not mainstream.”

“In a weird way, this is kind of counterculture,” Felecia chimes in.

Wensu Ng introduces the speaker for the night.

(Emil Ravelo / For The Times)

During his presentation, McClellan broke down key film concepts in layman’s terms for the diverse audience who were mostly composed of film lovers and people who were simply interested in the topic. (Though there were some writers in the crowd as well.) To illustrate his points, he played several movie clips including the 1931 version of “Frankenstein” and Juan Carlos Fresnadillo’s “28 Weeks Later,” both of which made several people in the audience, including myself, jump in fear.

“This is how you scare the crap out of people,” he said while explaining why seeing a lighted-up character staring into an abyss of darkness is impactful.

Though some patrons like to go to Lectures on Tap events for specific topics they find interesting, others say they would attend regardless of the subject matter.

“I felt really comfortable and I loved the social aspect of it,” says Andrew Guerrero, 26, in between sips of wine. “It felt more like a communal vibe, but at the same time, I miss learning.”

Attendees mingle at the bar.

(Emil Ravelo / For The Times)

He adds, “I can absorb [the information] more because I’m not pressured to really retain it and because of that, I actually do retain it.”

After weeks of trying to secure tickets, which cost $35, Ieva Vizgirdaite took her fiancé, Drake Garber, to the event to celebrate his birthday.

“I didn’t go to college so I don’t have any prior experience with lecturing,” says Garber, 29, adding that he’s interested in film production and is a “big horror fan.” But the fact that “I get to sit and learn about something that I love doing with a pint? Like, that’s amazing.”

The relaxed environment allows the speakers to let their guard down as well.

“I can play with certain elements that I maybe haven’t used in the classroom,” says McClellan, who made jokes throughout his presentation. “It’s definitely looser and getting around people who’ve been drinking, they’ll ask more questions and different types of questions.”

“It’s kind of like mushing up the education into your applesauce — mushing it up in the beer,” says Drew McClellan.

(Emil Ravelo / For The Times)

After the talk is over, bar staff quickly remove the rows of chairs and clear the stage for a concert that’s happening next. Several Lectures on Tap attendees, including the founders, transition to the back patio to mingle. McClellan stays after to answer more questions over drinks.

“This is a nontraditional environment to be enjoying yourself but also learning at the same time,” he says. “It’s kind of like mushing up the education into your applesauce — mushing it up in the beer.”

We were well into our journey from Los Angeles to Chicago, surrounded by cornfields and grain elevators, when the train halted and a voice rang out.

“All right, folks,” said a man on the PA system. “We’ve come to a stop in what appears to be the middle of nowhere.”

To a traveler in a hurry, this is the stuff of nightmares. To a seasoned passenger on the L.A.-Chicago train known as Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, it’s just another day.

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When you board an American long-distance train in 2025, you are trading the airport routine for entry into a locomotive-driven realm where there is neither TSA nor WiFi. And AI might as well stand for aged infrastructure.

There will be delays, often because of passing freight trains. But in the bargain, you are freeing yourself from worry about aerodynamics or the chronic shortage of U.S. air traffic controllers and gaining access to ground-level scenery and idle hours.

You’re also joining a modest trend. Even before this fall’s bout of flight cancellations during the government shutdown, Amtrak had set records for passengers and revenue in fiscal 2024, then again in 2025. Ridership on the Southwest Chief rose 12.6% in the last year. Amtrak’s long-distance trains haven’t caught up with their pre-pandemic numbers yet, but we seem to like them a little more lately.

Passengers board the Southwest Chief at Los Angeles Union Station.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

To learn why, I boarded the Southwest Chief at Los Angeles Union Station on a recent Monday afternoon. I was ready to see a few desert sunsets from the Sightseer Lounge and hear what people say when they have the time to chat with a stranger IRL.

Before long, I had been party to conversations about fear of flying, doctors in Tijuana, how to make beef jerky and how to sleep in a moving metal box. I’d also heard these sentences:

• “I like watching the country go by. I draw and I paint,” said passenger Nancy Roeder.
• “I’m a fourth-generation model railroader,” said William Angus.
• “I’m not going to lie to you. I took his life.”

This last comment came from a fellow traveler, ruefully disclosing an act of self-defense many years ago. No proof was offered, but I believed it. I also found the teller of the story (whom I won’t name) to be good company, thoughtful and generous.

In other words, on a two-day train, you meet people and hear things that you might not on a four-hour flight.

What Paul Theroux wrote 50 years ago in “The Great Railway Bazaar” is still true: “Anything is possible on a train: a great meal, a binge, a visit from card players, an intrigue, a good night’s sleep, and strangers’ monologues framed like Russian short stories.”

Flagstaff by dawn

Passengers relax in the Sightseer Lounge on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

There’s one Southwest Chief departure from Los Angeles every day (and one from Chicago). If everything goes right, the 2,265-mile, 32-stop trip takes about 43 hours.

But only a rookie would count on that. About 60% of the time, the Southwest Chief arrives at least 15 minutes late.

For much of its route through Arizona, the route is flanked by old Route 66 and other lonely desert roads.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Back in 1936, when the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway introduced Southwest Super Chief service between Los Angeles and Chicago, this was a roughly 40-hour journey. The passenger list included plenty of show-biz people and the first stop was in Pasadena.

Nowadays, the Southwest Chief is run by Amtrak (which gets government funding but operates independently enough to be unaffected by recent government shutdowns). There are not so many show-biz people now, not as many frills. Instead of Pasadena, its first stop after Los Angeles is Fullerton, followed by a bend to the northeast. By the time I arrived in the dining car for my first dinner aboard, we were nearing Barstow.

“This way, young man,” lied the server winningly as he steered me to a table. (I am 65. In the dining car, every traveler, no matter how aged, gets greeted as a young man or young lady.)

Since booths hold four people, dining car stewards like Chuck Jones manage the delicate task of putting travelers together. Through PA announcements and whispers in the aisles, he encouraged us to introduce ourselves and keep phones off tables.

He also suggested we steer clear of politics — a tall order when traveling through a government shutdown from a city the president had just called “lawless” to one he had just called “the worst and most dangerous city in the world.”

Surprise: Almost everyone complied.

Over the course of six dining car meals as a solo traveler, I heard no political disagreements and met travelers from their 20s to their 80s.

Claudette Toth, a senior from Massachusetts, estimated that she’d only flown three or four times in her life. William Angus, a 24-year-old returning to Chicago from a pilgrimage to the San Diego Model Railroad Museum told of how much he loved running a 1/87 scale model of the Bakersfield-Mojave rail system, re-enacting operations from February 1953.

Ernie Haecker, of Sante Fe and New York, is a regular on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief train between Los Angeles and Chicago.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

As Angus spoke, Ernie Haecker, a longtime train lover, nodded in understanding, grinning beneath a handlebar mustache. Haecker, 77, an audiologist, told us he takes the train every six weeks, splitting time between Santa Fe and New York. After so many trips, he knows the crew, knows where the train will pause long enough for him to shave, knows he can count on chatting with “a whole panoply of folks every time.” He even knew the spot in Illinois where the train would switch from one old company’s tracks to another’s.

“We just left the old Santa Fe,” he would say when the moment came. “Now we’re on Burlington.”

My dinner on the first night was another happy surprise — a fairly tender and flavorful flat iron steak. There was a vase holding flowers at every table, along with white tablecloth.

A meal is served in the dining car.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Still, nobody should expect a Michelin-star meal in an Amtrak dining car. It’s common for servers to bring out dessert before the main dish (to avoid running behind later) and at one meal, someone forgot my order and I had to start over half an hour later.

By the time we crossed into Arizona that first night, I was back in my roomette nodding off, lulled like a baby atop a washing machine.

We were near Flagstaff when I blinked awake, glad to catch sight of the sunrise and grateful to have a sleeping area of my own.

Arizona sprawl and the Amtrak class system

Roomettes measure about 23 square feet.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Of the three ways you can travel long-distance on Amtrak, the fanciest option is a private room that’s about 50 square feet (including private bath). The cost — about $3,200 for a couple, one way, when I booked — includes meals in the dining cars. (Family rooms, which hold four people but share bathrooms, cost about the same. All rates fluctuate by season and demand.)

That was too pricey for me and my expense account, so I booked a roomette. The roomettes are about half the size of a private room, with dining-car access and upper and lower berths that allow two travelers to lie flat (or one to spread out). These share toilets and showers. This cost me $809. (For a couple, the tab would have been $1,112.)

The third option was coach class, which means sleeping in your seat. It’s a sensible choice if you’re traveling only a portion of the route, and it’s what I did when traveling this route as a college student 45 years ago.

I was intrigued to see that coach fares start at $198 — only a bit more than the starting price for a flight. But no, not intrigued enough.

As a coach passenger, you don’t get access to the dining car (unless there’s room and you’re willing to pay $20-$45 for a meal). Instead, you bring food, buy snacks in the cafe car below the Sightseer Lounge or, if truly desperate, try to arrange a restaurant delivery to an upcoming fresh-air stop.

Fortunately, all classes get access to the Sightseer Lounge, where armchairs and couches face big windows. I’ve heard of lounges getting pretty crowded and ripe on heavily booked trips, but our trained seemed less than half-full. A few coach passengers dozed in the lounge overnight (which is officially forbidden) and nobody seemed bothered.

That first morning, with coffee in hand, I tiptoed into the lounge, sank into an armchair and watched the desert sprawl while wispy clouds clung to the horizon under a brightening sky.

This postcard (or rather Instagram) moment came somewhere between Winslow and Holbrook. I’m told the scenery is more dramatic on the Coast Starlight (from Los Angeles to Seattle) and the California Zephyr (from Emeryville through the Rockies to Chicago). But this comes down to taste. If you like deserts, the Chief is hard to beat. (Though no matter the route, if you like photography, the train is a challenge: no open windows, so you’re always shooting exteriors through glass.)

As Arizona yielded to New Mexico, the dirt seemed to get redder and the ridges rose to form buttes. Along rivers and creeks, bright yellow cottonwood trees congregated in bursts of yellow. Occasionally we’d glimpse small towns and timeworn roadside attractions — a reminder that Old Route 66 basically follows Southwest Chief’s path between the West Coast and Albuquerque, N.M.

Amish in transit, elk at sunset

Travelers head toward seats at Chicago Union Station.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

“Living in L.A., you forget all this space,” said Kim Rinauro, a nurse from Los Feliz. “When you come out and see how vast this is, it really gives you a different perspective.”

“America is so ginormous,” said Jeanine Bass, a softball coach from Costa Mesa who was on her way to see family in upstate New York.

Meanwhile, one end of the observation car had been filled by several women in white bonnets, joined by men with straw hats, footlong beards and no mustaches. Occasionally I’d hear a sort of clapping sound. Amish families. Playing dominoes.

Amish travelers have been using this route for decades, one of the men told me, on their way to and from doctors in Tijuana. Seeking medical treatment that’s more affordable and easier to schedule than in the U.S., they take trains to Southern California, then continue overland across the border.

Just before we made a 45-minute stop at the station, which is surrounded by a grim neighborhood, an Amtrak staffer took the microphone to sternly address the coach-class travelers.

“Coaches: No alcohol,” she said. “If you bring alcohol, you can stay and spend all night here with the transients.” For those in rooms and roomettes, she continued, booze in private rooms is OK, but not in public spaces.

Farther into New Mexico, we passed the other Southwest Chief train, carrying passengers west.

Between Raton, N.M., and Trinidad, Colo., amid a gaudy sunset, we crept past a herd of elk, then plunged into a tunnel. Emerging, we caught a last bit of sunset, some of the most gorgeous miles of the trip.

Yet this, I learned later, is the part of the trip that Amtrak’s chief executive tried to replace with bus service in 2018. The effort failed and that executive is no longer in the job. But the battles in Washington over Amtrak funding and mission never end, which is why so many cars, like the Superliners on the Southwest Chief, were built between 1979 and 1996. Amtrak leaders have set a goal of replacing their older long-distance cars by 2032.

Speaking of hardware: Eventually I tried the shower. It didn’t go well. First, I saw that someone had stolen the shampoo dispenser. Then I couldn’t find a way to cool the scalding-hot water. I stood as far back as I could in the snug compartment and grimaced my way through it.

Missouri, Iowa and Illinois: The final miles

The concourse at Chicago Union Station is grand but quiet.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

On arrival day, I woke just as we reached the station in Kansas City, another gritty neighborhood along the tracks. Our news feeds were filled with fresh reports of nationwide flight delays because of the government shutdown.

Soon we were crossing the Missouri River, roaring through forest and skirting naked farmland where this year’s corn crop had just been cut. Then came Fort Madison, Iowa; the Mississippi River and the beginnings of Illinois. Water towers and grain elevators.

I zipped my bags shut, tipped the roomette attendant and dining car team. Soon I’d be stretching my legs at the Art Institute of Chicago, walking Millennium Park and along the Chicago River, checking out the skyline from Navy Pier.

We pulled into Union Station within an hour of our target time.

Was it a perfect trip? No. But it was full of humanity, scenery and comforting clangs and rumbles. I even liked the lurching way you had to walk down the corridors, adjusting balance as the train shifts. And then, to step off the train after two days into a brisk Chicago afternoon, 2,265 miles from home, having never left the ground? That’s almost magic.

Tracks dominate the view from the last car on the train.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

I genuinely love a good facial — the ritual of it, the permission to lie still for 90 minutes, the way my skin looks afterward. I’m the person who books facials on vacation, who will try whatever’s trending this month, who drives to San Gabriel for a treatment a TikToker described as “gua sha on steroids.” So, yes, I was willing to pay $430 to have someone’s fingers in my mouth if it meant potential jaw realignment. Even if it meant a tuning fork was somehow involved.

The service is offered in a cozy Beverly Hills storefront by Sonia Vargas, the aesthetician and owner of Sonia Vargas Skin. While I dubbed it the tuning fork facial in my brain, Vargas bills it as the “Restructuring & Rebalancing Facial.” The 90-minute, $430 treatment promises to physically restructure your face.

Vargas said that she left fashion design eight years ago for facial massage training in techniques like craniosacral work (gentle manipulation of the skull and spine), manual lymphatic work and TMJ release. She told me the treatment has become popular with different types of clients. “It just depends on the face, the person, what they need and their budget,” Vargas said.

Some come weekly when dealing with acute TMJ issues, while others book quarterly maintenance appointments or schedule sessions before weddings when they want what Vargas calls a “natural lift.” She’s had clients come after jaw surgery who get treatments twice a week for months, others dealing with bad filler or Botox who needed intensive work to break down adhesions.

Sonia Vargas performs a lymphatic drainage massage.

The room was like many I’d been in for facials, dim, with low music playing and a bed taking up much of the space. But this one had a special addition of LED lights and ‘chakra-aligning’ gemstones that Vargas claimed pulsed at 4 hertz — a frequency she said that’s meant to help the immune system.

First came the familiar parts. The tingle of glycolic acid, the pain of extractions, the warm towels heating my skin. Then Vargas performed myofascial release methods with the precision of someone who knows exactly what she’s doing. Her fingers moved across my face like a pianist working through complicated scales as she tackled lymphatic drainage and the loosening of my jaw — a pleasurable experience that wasn’t uncomfortable even once.

As she continued working, the gradual lifting of my facial muscles began to accumulate into something noticeable. My face felt suspended in what seemed like a permanent knowing smile, as if I’d heard a particularly good joke no one else got.

After examining my jaw, Vargas suggested I add the TMJ release, a $90 addition to the base treatment. What followed was surprisingly gentle intraoral work, also known as buccal massage. I’d seen aggressive videos online, where aestheticians appear to be trying to extract someone’s skeleton through their mouth, but this was very peaceful in comparison. Her gloved fingers worked along my jawline from inside my mouth, breaking the silence to note my left side was significantly tighter, working more slowly there. I hadn’t mentioned the growing asymmetry I’d been noticing in photos or that I’d been meaning to ask my dentist about it.

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1. Sonia Vargas wraps a warm towel around Jackie Snow’s face. 2. Sonia Vargas applies a cleanser. (Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

The tuning fork came last, with Vargas pressing it against various points on my face. It was supposedly vibrating at something called Schumann resonance, 93.96 hertz, she later explained, a frequency that allegedly helps with immune function and chronic pain. It mostly felt like what it was: a cold piece of metal against my skin, vibrating. Unlike the dramatic muscle work that had come before, this was neutral, a bit anticlimactic.

The treatment incorporates elements that straddle the line between established practice and less proven ideas. The lymphatic drainage component has solid scientific backing, according to Dr. Ivy Lee, a board-certified dermatologist at the Comprehensive Dermatology Center of Pasadena. “The scientific evidence really comes from the breast cancer literature,” Lee said, referring to post-surgical lymphedema treatment. For healthy clients seeking wellness treatments, the benefits are mostly limited to temporary swelling reduction.

Sonia Vargas places a vibrating tuning fork on Jackie Snow’s face.

The vibrational therapy occupies murkier territory. Lee pointed to small studies suggesting vibration might improve microcirculation and skin temperature temporarily. But research that exists varies wildly in frequency, duration and methodology. “We don’t know the optimal dosing of this,” she said. “We don’t have an optimal protocol of what vibration frequency, where you apply it and then how long you apply it.”

The traditional elements of the facial have clear benefits, Lee confirmed. As for the rest, she saw no potential for harm, and in our high-stress world, that might be what matters most.

“Anything that can help us have that little moment where we can center ourselves does help,” she said. “Chronic elevated levels of cortisol are not good for us.”

When it comes to the claims about restructuring and facial rebalancing, the medical community is skeptical. “There is no evidence-based medicine to support any of the claims,” said Dr. Lisa Chipps, a Beverly Hills dermatologist who reviewed the treatment details. While she acknowledged that practitioners might be able to feel differences in muscle tension — as Vargas did with my jaw — changing or correcting those imbalances is another matter entirely.

Still, Chipps noted what both dermatologists emphasized: There’s no evidence these treatments cause harm. “If it makes people feel good, there’s nothing wrong with it,” she said. For some, she suggested, it might be like actors doing exercises before an audition. If it helps them feel their best, why not?

Vargas views the face as connected to the entire body’s fascia system, which is either revolutionary bodywork or expensive fiction, depending on who you ask. When I mentioned breaking my little toe while surfing three years ago had impacted my back and now maybe all the way up to my jaw, she agreed it was possible. “The back of your neck and your shoulders are so tight,” Vargas told me. “When you get certain injuries, you think it’s only there, but it actually affects everything.”

My skin looked great for days afterward, glowy and lifted. Whether that came from the lymphatic drainage or the fascia work, the tuning fork or just 90 minutes of focused attention, I couldn’t say. In a city where everyone’s stressed and most people’s jaws are clenched without even knowing it, the result felt worth it. And while Vargas clearly believes in the deeper bodywork, she hasn’t lost sight of the basics.

“I’m still an aesthetician,” Vargas said. “I want your skin to look good.”

Travel expert Simon Calder recommends this walkable coastal town where retirees can enjoy average 18C December weather

Travel expert Simon Calder has championed an winter sun destination that is affordable and walkable. He has praised the Algarve in Portugal as an excellent getaway from the cold and wet UK.

The Algarve offers brilliant value for money with average daily highs of 18°C in December, though TUI notes that “during the day temperatures can reach up to 20°C in some areas”. This stunning coastal region boasts charming and easily navigable towns, making it a superb choice for pensioners wanting a peaceful winter break.

Those looking to discover the magnificent Algarve away from the crowds should visit in December, when even the busiest towns remain calm compared to the hectic summer months.

Speaking on BBC Breakfast previously, Simon highlighted Portugal as one of Europe’s top winter destinations, saying: “In Western Europe, it has to be Portugal – obviously a very popular package holiday destination.”

Among the Algarve’s most gorgeous and walkable settlements is Portimao, reports the Express.

A holidaymaker praised it on Reddit, they said: “Highly recommend Portimao, somewhere between the central city and Praia da Rocha area.

“The city of Portimao itself has tons of restaurants, cafes and a walkable riverside area. Then the Praia da Rocha area has the beautiful beaches and more touristy areas.”

Travel specialist Alice Smith described Portimao on her blog Adventuresofalice as a “wonderful” and genuinely “authentic” Portuguese town.

She said: “I loved how authentic it was. It’s simply a typical Portuguese working town.

“While I was there, I didn’t feel too overcrowded by tourists like you often do in other parts of the Algarve.

“The Algarve as a whole, is much busier, of course. One of the best places to visit in Portugal, it’s incredibly popular with travellers around the globe.”

The nearest airport to Portimao is Faro Airport, situated 30 miles away. Direct flights to Faro are available from most UK airports, including London Gatwick and Manchester Airport.

Simon Calder also recommended the town of Cassis, in the south of France, an “absolutely magical” place that’s easy to visit in winter.

Best places to visit in Portimao:

• Praia da Rocha
• Portimão Museum
• Marina de Portimão
• Nossa Senhora da Conceição
• Mercado Municipal de Portimão

ONE regional airport in the south of the UK has had a huge increase in passengers over the last year.

Thanks to an extra TUI aircraft and the introduction of KLM flights to Amsterdam, the summer of 2025 bought in thousands more flyers to Exeter Airport.

It said that over 450,000 customers passed through the terminal between April and October 2025 – which is an increase of 100,000 people.

It estimated the yearly figure would exceed 500,000 passengers for the first time since Flybe went into administration back in March 2020.

The ‘landmark year’ follows the launch of daily KLM flights to Amsterdam which started in March 2025.

Not only does this give customers a chance to explore the Dutch city, but also offers connecting flights to more than 160 places across the world.

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This was followed by the decision for TUI to base a second aircraft at the airport over the summer which meant it had capacity for 50 flights per week to 13 destinations.

Exeter Airport said that TUI’s increased capacity meant that there were over 65,000 seats to Greece.

Another 60,000 seats to the Balearics and 40,000 to the Canary Islands were also added.

There are plans to continue the growth of the regional airport too with TUI already announcing a new and direct route to Kos which will start in summer 2026.

There are flights only as well as packages so customers can book seven or 14-night holidays there.

Flights only will start from £377pp based on travelling in June 2026 with 15kg hold luggage.

Package deals start from £1013 per person for a seven-night trip to staying at the4T+ Holiday Village Atlantica Mikri Poli Kos on an all-inclusive basis in June 2026.

Stephen Wiltshire, the airport’s managing director said: “We’re delighted with TUI’s announcement of new flights to Kos from Exeter Airport for summer 2026, and it’s the first time this beautiful Greek island will be directly served from here.

“This exciting addition expands the choice of sunshine destinations available to our passengers and reflects the continuing strength of demand for holidays from Exeter.

“We look forward to working closely with TUI to make the route a great success.”

For more on TUI, here’s the latest update on relaunching flights from closed UK airport – three years after shutting.

Plus the popular holiday hotspot set to become a ‘super destination’ with more cheap flights and new TUI hotels.

Discover what on Sun Writer thought on her recent holiday to Kos…

The Sun’s Jane Atkinson went on a family trip to Kos earlier this year, she explored the island that’s just  26 miles long and discovered local tavernas serving Greek salad and tasty gyros.

Talking about her trip, she said: ” It only took us 90 minutes to drive from one end to the other and there is one main road too, so it wasn’t stressful. The first stop was the Melissa honey farm near the town of Kefalos in the west.

“We tasted all different types of the sticky, sweet stuff — including wild strawberry, pine and thyme — and left with plenty of jars, as well as a rich honey hand cream for me and baklava pastries packed with nuts.

“If you’re a nature fan then head to Plaka Forest, a natural park in the centre of the island which has trails for walkers. For a bit of culture, Antimachia Castle is bursting with history.”

There is nowhere on Earth quite like Las Vegas, and when you add in the chaos of 200mph supercars whizzing down the Strip, it takes the mad place to another level

Whoever coined New York ‘the city that never sleeps’ had clearly never been to Las Vegas. Certainly not in Formula 1 week.

When the glitz and glamour of the world’s fastest sport meets the sheer chaos of the world’s craziest city – it takes it to another level. Las Vegas is like nowhere else on the planet. From the moment you touch down in this metropolis of Nevada after a lengthy 10-and-a-half-hour flight from the UK, any thoughts of jet lag are consigned to the back of your mind.

The sights and sounds of Sin City are quite literally designed to keep you awake and, more pertinently, keep you spending. From arriving at the mighty Caesars Palace, where the Nobu hotel provided my base for the stay, I was met with a countless array of gambling machines and tables, which are occupied 24 hours a day.

Numerous casinos on the world-famous Strip even have an artificial blue sky on the ceilings. With no clocks or open windows, gamblers could be forgiven for losing track of time, whether they are winning or losing.

And with an extra 150,000 people in the city for the Grand Prix, Vegas took on a new lease of life. This isn’t like visiting Silverstone or Brands Hatch. There is no purpose-built Formula 1 track. Instead, Las Vegas Boulevard shuts down to regular traffic for the weekend, meaning you need your walking boots to get around the hotels, casinos, bars, and restaurants.

Handily, with the main attractions all in close proximity, that is possible. But even so, I was walking up to 30,000 steps a day in order to experience everything this bustling hub of activity had to offer. I was lucky enough to be given a guided tour of the track two days before the race, ahead of the drivers heading out for their practice session.

It was an opportunity to get up close and personal with the sport’s biggest stars, their cars, and the thousands of staff in the pit lane, while being walked through the unique challenges each corner presents.

I witnessed a practice pit stop and gained a unique insight into the pressures on not only the drivers but also each staff member to execute the perfect race-day strategy.

It was then time to head to F1 Arcade to try my hand behind the wheel in a simulator. Thankfully, unlike those out on the track, I was able to select a setting more suitable to my level of expertise, and crashing the car into the barrier at top speeds meant simply hitting restart and having another go.

At the race itself, the adrenaline rush of seeing these supercars whizz past at speeds of over 200mph genuinely takes your breath away. And nowhere is it more fitting than with an incredible backdrop of the Vegas skyline, including the unmistakable Sphere.

Opening in September 2003 with a residency from Irish rockers U2, the Sphere is one of the world’s craziest and most novel entertainment venues and a must-see on any visit to Vegas. In addition to staging concerts, the venue also serves as a 360-degree, fully immersive cinema. I saw the 1930s classic, The Wizard of Oz, originally shot for a 4:3 movie screen.

To see this vintage piece of cinema being brought into the 21st century, complete with effects including fog, wind, and objects falling from the sky into your lap, is an experience to behold.

Another key pillar of the Las Vegas entertainment circuit is the various Cirque du Soleil shows available at numerous venues on the Strip. One such show is ‘O’ at the Bellagio – so named because ‘eau’ is French for water.

The show provides a spectacular array of aquatic performances through a journey of love, danger, adventure and courage. In addition to acrobats, it features artistic swimmers and divers, some of whom have represented their countries at the Olympic Games.

The supremely agile and flexible performers are joined by a flying pirate ship in a stunning display of gravity-defying artistry.

Vegas boasts a vast array of food and drink options to suit a range of budgets. At the top end, the aptly named High Steaks restaurant pairs incomparable 180-degree views of the Strip with a selection of succulent meats, seafood and show-stopping desserts.

Yardbird in the Venetian Resort is a perfect spot for breakfast with their signature chicken and waffles brilliantly over-the-top in every way. Away from the chaos of the Strip, the Vegas Arts District provides the perfect opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle and enjoy a more reserved area of this magnificent city.

Packed with quirky shops and idyllic brunch spots, it’s hard to believe you are just a stone’s throw away from the world’s capital of extravagance. But that is the allure of Las Vegas. The most brilliantly bonkers city in the world.

THE nation’s most Christmassy coach has been revealed – filled with 53 people named Carol and Noel singing festive songs.

National Express welcomed the army of festive folk with the same name on a service from London Victoria Coach Station.

IDs were checked before boarding to make sure each Carol and Noel was legitimate, and the dress code was simply ‘festive fun’, with many opting for novelty Christmas jumpers.

There were some notable names among the passengers, including TOWIE’s Carol Wright – mum of Mark – and even Noel Fielding (or at least their lookalike).

They were encouraged to sing Christmas songs for the entire journey to get into the festive spirit.

It comes as the UK’s largest coach operator is offering anyone called Carol or Noel free travel on Christmas Day for one of any of the 355 journeys it’s running to 96 locations across the country.

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John Boughton, commercial director for National Express, said: “Carol and Noel are the most festive names, so we were delighted to welcome so many on board to kick off the holiday season.

“This year we are feeling more festive than ever before and we can’t wait to welcome Carols and Noels for their free journeys with us on Christmas Day. Singing Christmas songs is optional.

“With planned rail disruption over the festive period, we’re once again stepping up to help people get home this Christmas with thousands of coach services across our key intercity and airport routes.”

The coach company also polled 2,000 people who celebrate the festivities, which found Silent Night was the most popular carol with 35 per cent of the vote.

It was followed by O Come All Ye Faithful and Hark! The Herald Angels Sing (both 18 per cent).

More than a third (36 per cent) admitted they don’t start feeling festive until they sing their first carol and 45 per cent are left with a nostalgic feeling when they hear them.

Around four in 10 (42 per cent) reckon the main thing that makes a great Christmas carol is that it should be easy to sing along to.

While 40 per cent look for a ‘traditional feel’ and 37 per cent reckon it should have memorable lyrics, according to the OnePoll.com figures.

Other top tunes to hear at this time of year included O Holy Night (15 per cent) and Away in a Manger (12 per cent).

But Ding Dong Merrily on High just missed out on the top 10, placing 11th on the list.

John added: “There’s something magical about hearing carols drift through the air during the holidays.

“Whether you’re out singing them door-to-door, or aboard a coach with three dozen people called Carol or Noel, they’re timelessly festive.

“Singing them at this time of year is almost guaranteed to get you in the Christmas spirit, even if there’s no snow on the ground.”

Just up the road from Whitby, this village offers golden sandy beaches, rugged cliffs, traditional cottages and ‘the best seafood restaurant’ visitors claim

Nestled along Yorkshire’s captivating coastline, just a short distance from Whitby, lies this charming fishing village boasting secluded beaches – ideal for those seeking a more serene retreat.

Boasting its own stretch of golden sand, Sandsend provides a far more peaceful alternative to its lively neighbouring town. The scenery features dramatic cliffs, gentle sands and the most delightful traditional cottages, creating a picture-perfect British village. When the weather’s fine, both residents and tourists can enjoy a seaside stroll, a refreshing swim or simply unwind whilst catching some sun. A recent guest said on TripAdvisor: “A beautiful coast; would highly recommend. Lovely atmosphere and views. My children loved it here; it’s very peaceful, and if you love a quiet coastal trip, then I would advise visiting here. There are a few pubs, cafes and restaurants too.”

During the warmer months, one holidaymaker remarked: “Beautiful stretch of coastline any time of year. We often visit in the spring/autumn; this was our first time visiting during the summer, and it was great to see this beach in all its glory! Lovely calm water for swimming; it was great for beating the heat after we had walked the length of the beach.”

Originally two separate villages – Sandsend and East Row – the area boasts a lengthy heritage in fishing, operating as a local port engaged in inshore fishing that remains active today. Visitors can savour locally caught fish at the village’s diverse dining establishments, ranging from cafés to restaurants and, naturally, fish and chip shops.

Particularly noteworthy is The Fish Cottage in Sandsend, a charming whitewashed establishment serving as both a seafood restaurant and fish and chip takeaway. Located merely 20 yards from the beach, some diners have even dubbed it “the best seafood restaurant by far”.

Additionally, they operate another location in Robin Hood’s Bay, another picturesque village on the opposite side of Whitby. Following a spontaneous visit, one diner shared on TripAdvisor: “Whenever I’m in the area, I cannot help myself; be it lunch or dinner time, I have to call in, and I am never disappointed. Staff are so so nice and very accommodating. The restaurant, although small, is lovely. If you’re ever in the area, honestly, this fish restaurant is the best.”

If that’s insufficient to entice you, an enchanting castle, Mulgrave Castle, stands just beyond the village and features a fascinating ‘ancient’ tale. According to legend, the site was established by a 6th-century ruler of Hälsingland, with its ruins now serving as a testament to the area’s fascinating past.

One visitor said: “It’s a bit of a slog getting there through the beautiful woods, but it’s well worth the effort. There was only one other person up at the castle, so it felt like the place was all mine. The views are breathtaking, and the ruin itself is very romantic.”

I feel terrible … I’ve left the children at home and Seiffen, nicknamed Spielzeugdorf (The Toy Village), is literally a Christmas wonderland. Every street is alive with sparkling fairy lights and soft candlelight. There are thousands of tiny wooden figurines, train sets and toy animals displayed in shop windows, wooden pyramids taller than doorframes and colourful nutcracker characters. Forget elves in the north pole, this is the real Santa’s workshop. For hundreds of years, here in the village of Seiffen, wood turners and carvers have created classic wooden Christmas toys and sold them around the world.

Near the border of the Czech Republic, Seiffen may be well known in the German-speaking world as the “home of Christmas”, but so far it has been largely missed by English-speaking seasonal tourists. Tucked away in the Ore Mountains, about an hour and a half south of Dresden, it is not the easiest place to get to by public transport – the nearest train station is in Olbernhau, nearly 7 miles (11km) away. Buses are available, but we opt for a hire car and make our way into the hills, arriving the day after the first snowfall of the year. The roads are cleared quickly, but snow clings to the branches of the spruce trees. We half expect to see the Gruffalo’s child, but only spot a rust-coloured fox making its way through a fresh field of snow.

The surrounding forests we drive through are key to Seiffen’s survival. (The only reason we are here is a tipoff from a friendly German forester who said it was a must-see.) The Ore Mountains – Erzgebirge in German – were classified as a Unesco world heritage site in 2019 due to their rich history of mining. For 800 years, the area was shaped by intensive silver and tin mining (and later uranium).

Seiffen was built in the 1300s just below the mountain ridge and is surrounded by forests of spruce, pine and beech. Mining and forestry go hand in hand. Timber was essential for making pit props to hold up the roofs of mines, and for tool-making. So when the supply of tin dried up and the miners were forced to find an alternative way to make a living, they sourced the timber on their doorstep, modified their machinery and first made wooden bowls and spoons, before turning to what would make them famous – toys. One craftsman took his toys to a nearby Christmas market and came back with pockets full of coins, and the rest, as they say, is history. Families in every corner of the village began making small animals and figurines in their homes, with everyone pitching in to help carve and paint them.

It is difficult to know where to start in a town full of twinkly lights and warm, inviting shops, but a trip to the toy museum (Erzgebirgisches Spielzeugmuseum, €9) makes sense. Open since 1936, it tells the story of Seiffen’s toy-making traditions. The short video is recommended as it is the only information supplied in English. Despite the language barrier, the 5,000 exhibits – ranging from nutcrackers to train sets, Noah’s arks to minuscule matchbook carvings (including the “smallest kitchen in the world”) – will, if you are into that kind of thing, keep you amazed for hours. There are even traditional wooden toys that little (or big) kids can play with. To this day, Seiffen continues its toy-making tradition and even played host to the European Toy Maker festival earlier this year.

To experience the toy-making in action, we head to the Seiffener Volkskunst workshop for the toy-decorating session we have booked. We walk through the shop, the tiny figurines and moving candle wheels stealing our attention, then past the viewing gallery of wood-turners and toy-painters. The way they turn the wood here is something special. In the 1800s, craftsmen created a method called hoop-turning, in which a specifically designed lathe turns a piece of wood into a thick ring shape with notches and grooves. When they slice it, the shape of the animal or toy is revealed. This enabled the mass production of figurines, contributing to the economic success of Seiffen throughout the 19th century. Currently, only a few people in the world still use this technique.

For our decorations, I choose a Christmassy-looking toadstool to paint, my partner a characterful duck, plus we take home a forest house to build with the children. Our little decorations are made with wood from local birch, beech, maple and linden trees. We sit alongside the professional toy painters, who are painting nutcrackers and snowmen, a slow mindful feeling settling over us.

One decoration I am particularly drawn to is the candle arch, or schwibbogen. These beautifully crafted objects depict the history of the village, sometimes with the local church above and mining figures at work below. Heritage is important in Seiffen, and when the advent season starts each year, there is a miners’ parade, with costumes that would have been worn 400 years ago.

Next, our decorations safely packaged away, we walk the streets of the village and come to understand that each shop has its own style and personality. Some toymakers focus on nutcrackers, some on angels, some on Räuchermänner, incense-burning figures. The more modern artisans’ shops, such as Wendt & Kühn, are fascinating to look around, with smartly decorated interiors, although the toys’ price tags reflect this. In fact, you could spend hundreds of euros in even the most down-to-earth places, with some pyramids costing more than €2,000.

After a lunch of delicious leek soup called Heidi (€7.80) at Hotel Seiffener Hof, we walk to the church, an unusual octagonal shape, which is depicted in so many of the archways and decorations they sell here, and listen a while as the organ is played.

As the Christmas season sets in the sun drops early, so we try a shot of heisse holunderbeere, hot elderberry served with vodka and a dollop of whipped cream on top, to warm us up. Then we take two cups of red glühwein on a walk up the hill and on to the historic miners’ trail. The snow is untrodden up here and it crunches underfoot as we make our way to the Binge, once the opencast mine used to extract tin, now an amphitheatre for the community. The wooden benches arranged in a semi-circle are white, and the only sound we hear today is the dripping of the melting snow.

We climb further up the steps on to the hill made of the waste material left over from the mining years. Now there are birch trees thriving, and we look down over the valley as the lights of the houses click on.

Before the temperature drops further, we enjoy rostbratwurst (grilled sausage) from a street seller and another mulled wine outside the central Hotel Erbgericht Buntes Haus. It is properly cold now. The shops are shutting and the paths are freezing, so we begin to walk back up the hill to our hotel, stopping every few minutes to look at the lights below. We are welcomed into the Panorama Berghotel Wettiner Höhe (rooms from €79), where we settle in for the night, well and truly ready for the Christmas season ahead.

Journalist Liv Clarke visited a joyful Christmas market in a UK town which she says matches any European-style winter wonderland – and has ‘the best’ hot chocolate

Christmas Markets have been bustling for several weeks now and journalist Liv Clarke says she’s “certainly no Grinch” when they pop up, adding that she “relishes” them. Based in Manchester, Liv took a train to an exceptional festive wonderland recently – and she was left enchanted with the “different” kind of Christmas market.

Liv said she loves to “uncover something new each year” at Christmas markets and found herself “whizzing over to Yorkshire on the train on a frosty November morning”, to see how they celebrate Christmas across the border. Heading to Halifax, which hosts an annual Christmas Market each year in the grand Piece Hall, Liv, being a “proud Yorkshire lass” herself, was more than happy to head to the West Yorkshire town.

She said that “getting to these markets couldn’t be simpler” via a pretty train journey – and Liv described the “stunning Grade-I Georgian building” of the the Piece Hall which “boasts a massive 66,000sq ft open-courtyard” as being truly memorable.

She said: “I hopped on the train from Manchester Victoria to Halifax, which takes around 40 minutes, and the Piece Hall is roughly a five-minute stroll from the train station. My ticket set me back £12.59 for an open return which I booked on Trainline the day before, including Railcard discount.”

This works out just over £6 each way, she added, having booked ahead of travelling, which means you can sometimes find one-way tickets at low cost, reports the Manchester Evening News.

Liv said: “The train journey itself was picturesque, especially with a heavy frost adding a sparkle to the rugged landscape of the South Pennines. I passed through Rochdale, Todmoden and Hebden Bridge along the way, admiring the canals and mills which looked particularly striking in the bright sunshine.

“Upon my arrival in Halifax, it was a mere short stroll to the Piece Hall, tucked away from the main thoroughfare. Entry is through one of four gates situated on each side of the square, and there’s something rather grand about stepping through the archway.

“The gate I chose boasted an exquisitely ornate design, adding to the enchantment of the experience. It was still early when I arrived, with many stallholders preparing for the day ahead, but I was already taken with the layout; compared to Manchester, it was refreshing to see the markets here confined to one area, providing a respite from the hustle and bustle of the main high street.”

While waiting for the markets to fully open, Liv took the opportunity to explore the Piece Hall itself, describing “dozens of shops” lining all four sides of the square.

She said: “Given its location on a slight incline, there are varying levels depending on which side you’re on, yet each open-air walkway affords stunning views of the square below.

“On the ground floor, you’ll discover a plethora of cafes and restaurants, many of which stay open late into the evening. I treated myself to a hot chocolate from The Bakery (£3.95), which ranks among the best I’ve ever tasted: rich, chocolatey and perfectly sweetened.”

The Piece Hall is home to shops selling a wide array of items, from handmade gifts to antiques – and while these independent shops operate year-round, “the markets provide a significant boost, with many market traders even supplying the permanent shops”, Liv reported.

Shelly Foster, who runs The Handmade Gift Shop, shared her recommendation for the best time to visit, telling Liv: “The markets are always full of joy, the best time is around 4.30pm, just before sunset when everything is glowing. The markets are open until 7pm on Fridays and Saturdays but the bars and restaurants stay open much later, often with live music creating a lovely atmosphere.”

Lou Harkness-Hudson, who operates Hudson Belle, a shop selling gifts and homeware, said: “It’s just the most unique, unusual place to come, it’s a fantastic building, an excellent community. The markets are a crucial time for us and really boost footfall, it doesn’t get any busier than this. They bring people here to shop and have a nice day out.”

Liv continued to explore, adding: “Back at ground level, the markets were open and shoppers started to wander around as the morning sun began to thaw us all out. There was a fantastic selection of stalls, with many naturally selling products from Yorkshire.

“From rum to cheese to chilli oil – if you can name it, they sell it. Then there were stalls selling hats, gloves and scarves, which I imagine were in high demand during my chilly visit, along with several traders offering the most beautiful decorations and trinkets you could imagine.

“Adding to the enchantment was a merry-go-round and a large Ferris wheel, although it was spinning a bit too quickly for my taste. Given that it was a swinging-seat style wheel, I opted to sit this one out. Nonetheless, it was pleasant to observe.”

In one corner of the square, a towering Christmas tree stood majestically, with a massive ‘Christmas’ sign displayed against the balustrades of the Piece Hall’s second floor behind it, creating an idyllic scene. Liv described.

Liv added: “It’s the setting of the Piece Hall that makes this place special – it genuinely feels like you’re in a European city, rather than in the north of England.

“Naturally, there are far fewer food stalls here than in Manchester, which I found quite appealing. No overwhelming choices here; instead, I easily settled on my early lunch: a Yorkshire Bratwurst from The Sausage Box.

“This was crafted with a locally sourced pork Bratwurst from ‘Lishman’s of Ilkley’, served in a brioche bun with sauerkraut, pickles, crispy onions, ketchup and mustard, all for £9. It was a sight to behold and almost seemed too good to be true.”

Upon taking a bite, Liv said it “lived up to its looks”. She described the sausage as “succulent with a hint of smokiness, the toppings combined to create a flavour explosion, and it was surprisingly easy to eat – no stringy bits of meat or tough bread causing a mess”.

Liv added: “It felt much more thrilling than the Bratwurst stalls we have here in Manchester.”

“Naturally, there’s a stall selling Yorkshire pudding wraps if that tickles your fancy. As a proud Yorkshire lass myself, I wouldn’t dare to sample a pudding made by anyone other than my own mum while in God’s Own County, so I gave that one a miss.

“Other stalls were serving up Indian street food and Paella, while the surrounding eateries included an Italian restaurant and a wine bar that looked rather inviting. After my Bratwurst, I fancied something sweet, so I made a beeline for the churros stall.

“I must confess, it took three attempts to get my hands on some churros, as twice I was informed that the machine was, quite literally, frozen. But as they say, third time’s the charm, and I finally secured my paper cup of golden churros, dusted with crunchy cinnamon sugar and sitting in a pool of chocolate sauce.”

The churros cost £8, with the sauce costing an extra £1, which “seemed reasonable given the generous portion size” which Liv “couldn’t even finish”.

She added: “While I’m not usually one for sweets, even I found these delightful, with the texture being spot-on and just the right amount of chewiness. The sauce was scrumptious and tasted like genuine chocolate rather than a synthetic substitute.”

Summing up the festive experience, Liv said that “everything about the markets was a joy: the location, the people, and the food” – and if she visits again she may even brave a spin on the Ferris wheel, but she’s “making no promises”.

Sam Teesdale jetted off to Malta for a winter break, staying at the AX Odycy hotel. He went to check out the island’s reputation at great for catching the winter rays

The small island country of Malta, found between Italy and North Africa, has long been regarded as one of the best places to get away for some winter sun.

With affordable flights, a flight time of around three hours, and close ties to Britain, it’s no wonder that it’s ranked number one on easyJet’s top winter getaways for 2025. But, there are, of course, wins and trade-offs with winter holidays.

Yes, the crowds on a winter getaway are a fraction of what they are in the high-season, but then again, so are the temperatures. It’s a mixed bag. Which is why I set off to stay at the all-inclusive AX Odycy hotel, to see whether a winter getaway was worth the hassle and cash.

The weather

With December looming on the horizon, the weather was understandably up and down. There were rainbows, downpours, thunderstorms, sea winds of 50mph and also, some moments of glorious sunshine.

So, while it was most definitely a climatological smorgasbord, Malta was undoubtedly warmer than Blighty. As is always the case with holidays, the final day, which was spent in the airport, saw completely clear skies and a lovely temperature of 20 degrees. Such is life.

Sunbathing

Sunbathing is indeed possible in the late November Malta sun, weather permitting, but whether you’ll see the all-important tan lines appear is a different question. Temperatures reached a cool high of 17 degrees, but, coupled with some fairly relentless winds and sporadic rain bursts, it made for some of the less balmy sun-worshipping experiences I’ve had in my life.

However, it is most definitely warmer and more enjoyable than braving the UK’s measly end-of-November highs of five degrees. So, yes, sunbathing is possible. You will just have to wrap up warm.

Swimming in (unheated) hotel pools

For this, I will have to assign a 1/10 on the enjoyment scale. Although the AX Odycy was blessed to have a lovely heated indoor pool, this was not the case for the numerous rooftop pools. It’s humbling when the brut served at breakfast is warmer than the outdoor pool water. I naively thought that as a hardy Lincolnshire-native, I could firm a quick dip in 15-degree water. So I put my nervous system’s cold shock response to good use, and after some undignified guttural breathing, I decided that swimming was not on the agenda in winter.

Hot tubs

The hot tubs at AX were brilliant, with no notes to report. After a while, it does essentially feel like you’re sitting in a big bowl of human soup, but still, anything is a blessing after the Arctic plunge of the non-heated pools. Opportunities were scarce to have the jacuzzi to yourself, with fellow Brits understandably hogging the coveted warmth of the hot tubs.

Sitting at the ‘beach’

‘Beach’ may be a bit of a misnomer as the beaches near the hotel consisted mainly of jagged limestone. The water was not much warmer than the rooftop pools, so yes, while you can sit at the beach, it most certainly won’t live up to the Euro-summer images you probably had in mind.

Visiting tourist sites

Now, this is an often-overlooked but important factor in winter getaways. I had the distinct sense both in the hotel and out and about that the crowds were a fraction of the size normally seen in high season. My visit to Disney film-set-turned-living-museum, Popeye Village was a similar experience, and I was able to roam unabated by the throngs of tourists one normally encounters on a typical high-season holiday.

Dining

Dining both in and outside of the resort was notably different from a summer holiday. Although I had never visited before, AX Odycy had a quieter atmosphere and dining was similarly subdued.

The hotel was not empty by any stretch, and it still enjoyed a good number of guests, but there were no notable instances of queues and lots of room and time to dine leisurely without the constant barging and overstimulation normally expected at an all-inclusive.

Prices

Finally, the prices. As it was low season and during term time, the prices were incredibly good value. Popeye Village cost just £13 to spend all day there, with minigolf and popcorn included, while AX Odycy’s stunning Junior Suite, complete with private wraparound balcony, came in at £750 per person.

The holiday offered great bang for my buck, so it’s no wonder Malta has become such a popular destination for Brits looking to warm their cockles over the winter months.

Book it

Lastminute.com offers convenient, great-value package deals. Its January Sale starts at the end of December. A six-night stay for two adults in the 4* AX ODYCY in Qawra, Malta from 12 to 18 January costs from £199 per person, with flights from Manchester included.