RAPPER Chris Brown footed a £160,240 booze bill during a wild night out in London.
The US star — on bail for assault — partied with his entourage in the capital ahead of his trial next year.
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Rapper Chris Brown footed a staggering booze bill during a wild night out in LondonCredit: GettyBrown’s bill included five bottles of Cristal Magnum aT £2,900 eachA receipt from Brown’s wild night showed the total bill of more than £160,000Credit:
One session involved at least four bottles of £2,900-a-time Louis Roederer Cristal Magnum Champagne at the Selene nightclub, which promises “the epitome of ultimate pleasure”.
Days later, the West End club posted the anonymous megabucks receipt on social media.
Some of those who partied with him — including models and other rappers — have revealed Chris footed the bill.
His entourage also posted the receipt alongside shots of a private jet and luxury hotel suites from his ten-day visit, after he flew in on October 18.
Diane Ladd, the Oscar-nominated actor who received acclaim for her work in films including “Rambling Rose,” “Wild at Heart” and “Alice Doesn’t Live Here Anymore,” has died. She was 89.
Oscar winner Laura Dern, Ladd’s daughter with Oscar-nominated actor Bruce Dern, announced her mother’s death in a statement shared Monday. “My amazing hero and my profound gift of a mother, Diane Ladd, passed with me beside her this morning, at her home in Ojai,” Dern wrote. A cause of death was not revealed.
“She was the greatest daughter, mother, grandmother, actress, artist and empathetic spirit that only dreams could have seemingly created,” “Marriage Story” star Dern said in her statement. “We were blessed to have her.”
This summer, Netflix’s animated hit “KPop Demon Hunters” might have created the most popular K-pop girl group in America. And seemingly the only people unaware of that distinction are its members.
“Is that what it is?,” asks Rei Ami, who with fellow artists Ejae and Audrey Nuna forms the film’s fictional trio Huntr/x. “Is that what it’s being labeled as?”
The stats are behind them: “Golden,” a contender for the Oscar for original song, hit No. 1 on the Billboard Hot 100 for more than eight consecutive weeks, with three other numbers earning a place in the Top 10. As a result, the film’s soundtrack hit No. 1 on the Billboard 200 and recently went platinum. With success has come an array of other opportunities as well. The group have since made a cameo on “Saturday Night Live” and performed on “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon.”
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But as Ejae points out, theirs has not been the usual route to K-pop stardom. A former K-pop trainee herself, she notes that many hopefuls spend years developing their craft and chemistry with future group members. “We were all individually our own person. They had their music career, and I have my career as a songwriter,” she says. “[Becoming a K-pop group] later is unheard of with K-pop training. You do it when they’re kids, before anything [can develop], so they can shape them together, whereas we’re our own individuals coming together. Having this synergy is incredibly rare.”
That’s what singing in the most-watched Netflix film of all time will do for you. Premiering in August, “KPop Demon Hunters” propelled the members of Huntr/x — all of them already established in the industry, Nuna and Ami as artists and Ejae, who recently released her first solo single, as a songwriter for K-pop groups — into a new intensity of spotlight. (Ejae also wrote several tracks for the film, including “Golden,” with co-writers Mark Sonnenblick, Ido, 24 and Teddy.)
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1.Rei Ami is the singing voice for Zoey.2.Ejae is the singing voice for Rumi.3.Audrey Nuna is the singing voice for Mira.(Justin Jun Lee / For The Times)
“We were thrown together, basically,” says Nuna. “I’ve seen photos of us and I [thought], ‘Damn, we look like we were perfectly calculated to be in this group.’ The balance is nuts. But to think how serendipitous it was that this happened — we didn’t audition in rooms or go through multiple rounds of pairings to find each other… It just speaks to the beauty of the universe and how things go and when things just happen.”
In fact, the singers did not even meet until nearly five months ago, on the carpet at the film’s premiere. They recorded their parts separately with executive music director Ian Eisendrath, who then worked with the music team to edit them all together.
Ami was the last to record her part, which meant she got to hear “This Is What It Sounds Like” in its entirety with all the voices meshed together. The moment recalled the film’s final scene, in which Huntr/x — whose members double as the demon hunters of the title — reunites to fight the main villain to the sounds of the very same song, when “This Is What It Sounds Like” plays.
“I got to hear the song in full and all of our harmonies for the first time,” she recalls. “I was completely moved. I knew in my heart that this was going to be great.”
Still, they never expected the film to become a global phenomenon, resulting in their now chaotic schedules filled with press interviews, panel engagements, media appearances and special performances. Ami smiles, “We’re doing our best.”
Through it all, they’ve hyped each other’s achievements and held hands while expressing their appreciation for each other.
“These women have worked so hard on their journeys individually,” says Ami. “The industry has been so tumultuous, and the amount of pain, struggle, blood, sweat and tears that we’ve individually had to deal with … These two girls are the only ones in the world who will fully understand what I’m going through. I can’t talk to anyone else about this. Only they understand, and I feel so supported and not alone.”
They all clasp hands, with Ami telling the others, “I love you guys.”
And, for all the challenging moments, they are immensely grateful for the chance to fulfill their dreams. They all express their gratitude for the opportunity, as it has always been their dream.
“Literally, a month before the movie came out, I was doubting myself as a songwriter,” Ejae explains. “My goal was to get No. 1 on the Hot 100. I was going to do that — move to California, write so many sessions, and get No. 1. It felt impossible.”
“Those are all things we have on our bucket list,” Ami, right, says of the prospect of performing at the Oscars or Grammys.
(Justin Jun Lee / For The Times)
Ami becomes emotional about the film’s success when she talks about its impact on her career.
“I’m so blessed,” she says, holding back tears. “It’s really introduced me to more fans and new fans. This whole experience has taught me a lot about myself and what I want to do as an artist. My dreams are coming true.”
That hasn’t necessarily been the experience for her groupmates, though. “It takes a very long time [for me] to process and metabolize emotions,” Nuna says of her own lack of waterworks. “I’ve never wanted somebody to cry so much in my life,” Ami chimes in, laughing. “Feel something!”
The “instant chemistry” displayed in their interview was recently on display when the three were asked to perform “Golden” together for “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon” — their first as a group. And the more they rehearsed, the more they cohered. Just like a real K-pop group.
“It’s really wild and weird,” says Nuna. “Honestly, the mesh of our voices just felt so intuitive. It was very organic and easy. The song is not easy, but the mesh and connecting were. It was literally our first time singing together, and I feel like we were hearing overtones in our harmonies and stuff, because they’re just really locked in.”
Awards buzz, for both the Oscars and the Grammys, has come as a surprise to the group, but it leads to questions about reuniting Huntr/x onstage at the biggest pop culture events of the year.
“[Performing at the Oscars or Grammys] would be the biggest deal,” says Ami. “I think we can all relate. That’s probably one of the highest accolades and achievements you can accomplish as an artist, songwriter, and producer. Those are all things we have on our bucket list.”
The trio hasn’t thought far enough ahead about an actual performance on either stage, as they’ve only recently begun rehearsing together.
“Jimmy Fallon will be a good practice,” Ejae laughs. “Good warm-up preparation.”
Indeed, though they have joked about forming a (real-life) K-pop group, all three are busy with individual projects — at least for now.
“If we were to get together, the charts better watch out!” Ami shouts. “You might not ever see another name other than us.”
The village was once a rival to London and an important medieval hub. But a series of unfortunate storms meant much of it was lost to the sea and now lies under the water
The village of Dunwich was once the capital of East Anglia but was lost to storms and floods(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
A tiny village that was once a medieval port and considered the capital of East Anglia is the perfect day out for history buffs or those who love quiet, windswept beaches.
In Anglo-Saxon times, Dunwich on the Suffolk coast was the heart of what was then called the Kingdom of the East Angles. Its international port was considered a rival to London, and the Domesday Book of 1086 revealed it had a population of over 3,000 people. This was a time when London’s population was just 18,000.
However, the town’s fortunes changed in 1286 when a storm surge hit the area, followed by two large weather fronts the next year. This caused major coastal erosion, which led to large parts of the town being submerged underwater. In 1347, it’s thought that 400 homes were swept into the sea, with most of the remains of the town destroyed in 1362 in Saint Marcellus’s flood. Around 25,000 people across Europe lost their lives in the tragic event.
Because of its unique past, Dunwich is often dubbed the ‘lost city of England’ and draws comparisons to the legendary island of Atlantis, which, according to myths, sank under the sea.
Dunwich Museum is a great way to learn about life before the floods. Researchers have mapped out where the old homes and buildings used to stand before they were lost to the sea, and you can see these maps at the museum. There are also many interesting displays about medieval life and artefacts from the time.
Only a few ruins remain from medieval times. One of the most complete buildings is the Greyfriars monastery. This was built around half a mile inland, after the original monastery closer to the coast was lost. The ruins include the grand entrance to the monastery and part of the refectory where the monks would eat.
National Trust’s Dunwich Heath and Beach is an unspoilt spot with some beautiful walking trails. The Heath is full of rare wildlife and birds, and you may be able to spot red deer and otters on your stroll. Dunwich’s wide shingle beach is a popular spot for fishing and paddling in the sea.
Not all ships en route to Dunwich made it safely, and researchers have worked to uncover a large number of shipwrecks off the coast. According to the East Anglian Daily Times, there could be as many as hundreds of ships in a shipwreck graveyard off the coast, many of which sank during World War I when shipping routes were attacked.
Once you’re finished exploring, visit Flora Tea Rooms, a traditional fish and chip restaurant on the beach that also serves British classics such as afternoon tea. The village has one pub, The Ship at Dunwich, a cosy spot with a beer garden and beautiful countryside views. It also has 16 rooms if you decide to stay and enjoy this peaceful village for longer.
Dunwich is also close to the RSPB Minsmere, a coastal nature reserve that includes areas of woodland, reedbeds, grassland, and heathland. Among the unspoilt landscape, you can spot wildlife, from a vast array of coastal birds to Water Voles.
“What a horrible story! What a hideous play!” a theater critic for the Daily Telegraph lamented after the London premiere of “Hedda Gabler” in 1891. Victorian audiences were repelled by Henrik Ibsen’s fatally attractive newlywed who appears to have it all — the fancy house, the doting husband — only to be violently bored.
But writer-director Nia DaCosta (“Candyman,”“The Marvels”) and her star Tessa Thompson understand Hedda down to the pretty poison in her molecules. Their rollicking redo, set from dusk to hangover at a drunken bacchanal, is vibrant and viciously alive. With apologies to Ibsen’s ghost, DaCosta’s tweaks have sharpened its rage. I don’t think that long-dead critic would like this “Hedda” any better. I think it’s divine.
Thompson’s Hedda is a clever, status-conscious snot raised to believe that her sole purpose is to be a rich man’s wife. With no hobbies or career and no interest in motherhood, her only creative outlets are squandering money and machinating the success of her milquetoast husband, middlebrow academic George (Tom Bateman), who has such a flimsy hold on his bride that his last name might as well be attached to hers with Scotch tape. (It’s Tesman and it’s pointedly rarely used.) Hedda doesn’t love George. In fact, she seems to think he’s a whiny little worm. But she’s dead-set on securing him a promotion to afford her expensive tastes.
If Hedda had been born a man, she’d be leading armies into battle like her late father, General Gabler, who spawned her out of wedlock. Instead, she takes out her aggression on civilians. Using her charm offensive, Hedda goads naive spouses to cheat, recovering alcoholics to drink and depressives to wander off into the darkness with a revolver. Some of her havoc is calculated, most of it is out of pique that others are living braver, more fulfilling lives. All of it feels like a cat tipping over water glasses just to see them shatter. Like the nasty seductress of “Dangerous Liaisons,” she’s a warning that frustrated women aren’t merely a hazard to themselves — they’re a menace to the society that made them.
Inspired by her antihero, DaCosta manipulates Ibsen to suit her own goals. She’s updated the play’s setting to 1950s England, a similar-in-spirit era in which well-bred women were kept domesticated. (I can’t wait for someone to do a version among the tradwives of Utah.) From there, DaCosta has smartly tightened the narrative, which used to have a key scene at an off-stage bachelor party to which Hedda was pointedly not invited. “What a pity the fair lady can’t be there, invisible,” Ibsen’s Hedda grumbled at being left home while the men got to carouse.
In DaCosta’s version, the whole drama unfolds during a martini and cocaine-fueled rager at Hedda’s mansion, a party she’s throwing to impress George’s potential new boss, Professor Greenwood (Finbar Lynch), who she hears has a bohemian streak. At her own happening on her own turf, Hedda couldn’t be more visibly in command. She rallies the guests to hurl her former classmate, Thea (Imogen Poots), a wretchedly earnest drip, into a nearby lake and gets the whole room grooving to a dance band’s cover of “It’s Oh So Quiet,” the swinging hit that the Icelandic pop singer Björk would popularize a half-century later. It’s a great song pick with manic crescendos — You blow a fuse, zing boom! The devil cuts loose, zing boom! — that capture Hedda’s feverish mood shifts.
We know this evening will go wrong from the film’s opening shot of Hedda facing down two policemen who keep interrupting her explanation of the last 24 hours. “Where should I start?” she says with smothered exasperation. As we cut back to watch the night unfold, a shot of Hedda surveying the crowd from an upstairs landing feels like she’s looking at a game board — Clue, perhaps? — with a weapon stashed in every room. Which threat is most pressing? The pistols she keeps in a leather box, the precarious crystal chandelier or the lake’s deep waters outside?
Thompson is marvelous in the role. Even the way she chomps a cherry off a cocktail toothpick has menace. I first saw her as the lead in “Romeo and Juliet” at a 99-seat theater in Pasadena when she was barely 20 years old (there’s so much talent in our small stage scene), so it’s a nice reminder that the funny and soulful actor of the “Thor” and “Creed” franchises is also a hell of a good classical performer and a worthy star on her own.
She wears Hedda’s lovely mask with confidence — red lips, lush cheekbones, cool demeanor — and periodically allows it to slip. Editor Jacob Schulsinger often allows Hedda a tiny hesitation before she charges ahead ruining people’s lives, long enough to know that she’s considering the consequences. “Sometimes I can’t help myself, I just do things all of a sudden on a whim,” she admits to the nosy Judge Brack (Nicholas Pinnock), revealing a sliver of weakness. She’s almost (nearly) asking for help. Yet, the judge just wants to maneuver her into bed. How tedious.
DaCosta boldly layers race and sexuality on top of Ibsen’s tale. She’s gender-swapped Hedda’s ex-lover, Eilert, into a lesbian named Eileen (a swaggering Nina Hoss), a brilliant, openly norm-defying author who is George’s job-seeking competition (and the only person Hedda enjoys kissing). If earlier incarnations of Hedda didn’t dare defy social rules when she was white and straight, being Black and queer adds so much additional peril that the script barely needs to say out loud. The new tension is there in just a few whispers, as when Hedda overhears a guest murmur that their hostess is “duskier than I thought she would be.” Hedda doesn’t acknowledge the slight. That would mean admitting vulnerability. She simply starts destroying the speaker in the very next scene.
What’s wiser? Eileen’s determination to face down the boys and be accepted for her full self or Hedda sneaking around and steering everyone’s fates behind the scenes? They can’t team up — they’re doomed to tear each other to shreds. And as much glee as we get watching Hedda’s rampage, it aches to see these two formidable women reduce each other to hysterics (to use the medical diagnosis of the day).
From our 21st century perspective, they both have a right to be mad and they both might be mentally ill. DaCosta doesn’t offer a verdict, but she plunges us so deeply into Hedda’s headspace that we can hear how certain things set her off. Insults hit her with a knife-like hiss of air; fresh schemes get her charging around to Hildur Guðnadóttir’s tumultuous, percussive score.
Costume designer Lindsay Pugh has done incredible work outfitting the film’s central female roles. Hedda wears bullet-like strands of pearls that choke her neck and a jade-colored gown that seems to molder into a festering, jealous shade of green. When her rival, Poot’s Thea, arrives underdressed, Hedda forces her into a hideous frock with fussy bows and an ungainly skirt. Poots, her nose raw and red, her character kicked when she’s down, gamely looks a fright, trusting that moral fiber will expose Hedda’s ugly insecurities.
But Pugh’s stroke of genius is putting Eileen not in some sort of mannish suit but in a bombshell dress that highlights her curves like a primal goddess. It’s pure feminine power — just like the film itself — and when Eileen struts into a room of her all-male colleagues, that dress exposes how fast the tenor can shift from awe to jeers and how little wiggle room she or any woman has for error.
‘Hedda’
Rated: R, for sexual content, language, drug use and brief nudity
ST. PAUL, Minn. — Marco Rossi scored in the fourth round of the shootout and the Minnesota Wild beat the Kings 4-3 on Monday night after giving up a three-goal lead in the third period.
Power-play goals by Jared Spurgeon, Kirill Kaprizov and Matt Boldy gave Minnesota a 3-0 lead late in the first period.
The score remained until the third period when Kevin Fiala, Quinton Byfield scored early and Adrain Kempe late to send the game to overtime.
Fiala banked a rebound off the back of Jesper Wallstedt early in the third and Byfield added a power-play goal less than three minutes later to get the Kings to 3-2.
With an extra attacker, Kempe scored on a rebound with 44.4 seconds left in regulation for the Kings.
Darcy Kuemper stopped 23 shots for the Kings, who again struggled to stay out of the penalty box. Whistled for six infractions Monday, the Kings have been shorthanded 22 times in four games.
Making his season debut and first start since Dec. 21, 2024, Wallstedt made 31 saves for Minnesota. Vladimir Tarasenko had two assists.
Spurgeon scored 14:04 into the game with a shot from the right circle that went through a screen by Vinnie Hinostroza for a 1-0 Wild lead.
With a two-man advantage, Kaprizov scored from the slot just over two minutes later and Boldy skated in from below the right circle and his shot went off the glove of Kuemper at the post to make 3-0 at 16:33.
The Wild are converting on an NHL-best 47.1% of their power-play opportunities. Minnesota has scored eight times in 17 chances, including four goals in Saturday’s 7-4 loss to Columbus.
Kaprizov and Boldy each have a team-high three goals and seven points. Colorado’s Nathan MacKinnon and Martin Necas have a league-best eight points apiece.
No, it’s inconceivable that Philadelphia Phillies’ reliever Orion Kerkering would botch a grounder and throw it away with the season on the line.
Yes, it happened with the bases loaded and the Dodgers scored to steal a National League Division Series clinching 2-1 victory in 11 taut innings Thursday at Dodger Stadium!
Clinched, just in time.
Clinched, when they could have clenched.
Clinched, like a champion.
With their backs quickly approaching the wall, faced with a loss that would return the series to Philadelphia for a deciding Game 5, the Dodgers dug in and lashed out and, at the last possible minute, shoved the talented and favored Philadelphia Phillies out of their path to take a three-games-to-one series win and clear the way toward their second consecutive World Series title.
And they did it with a mad, mindless throw from a frozen, frightened reliever.
Has any postseason series ended with such an error?
It happened in the 11th, after Tommy Edman hit a one-out single to left, then moved to third one out later on a single by Max Muncy. Kiké Hernández walked to load the bases, bringing up the struggling Andy Pages, who entered the day with an .053 playoff average and had gone hitless in four previous at-bats.
He proceeded to hit into his fifth out… except Kerkering muffed the grounder. When the pitcher finally picked up the ball, he still had plenty of time to throw out Pages at first. Instead, he panicked and threw it home, launching it far over catcher JT Realmuto’s head.
Pinch-runner Hyeseong Kim scored the winning run as Kerkering stood stunned on the mound and the Dodgers danced wildly across the field.
How the Dodgers defeated the Phillies in the 11th inning in Game 4 of the NLDS.
They now advance to the National League Championship Series, where they will be heavy favorites against either the Milwaukee Brewers or Chicago Cubs.
A victory in that seven-game set will land them back in the World Series, where they will be even heavier favorites against whatever inferior team the American League can muster.
Yeah, the rest of their journey should be the easy part, the Dodgers already conquering their Goliath equal in a Phillies series that was essentially the World Series.
Remember last fall when they defeated the San Diego Padres in a tense five-game fight before cruising to the title? This was that. This was the two best teams in baseball. This was the Dodgers once again swallowing all the pressure and refusing to relent.
After a breathtaking six-inning scoreless pitching duel between the Dodgers’ Tyler Glasnow and the Phillies’ Cristopher Sanchez, the Phillies struck first in the seventh with a single, an error by reliever Emmet Sheehan, and a double by Nick Castellanos.
The Dodgers countered in the bottom of the seventh with two walks and a single followed by a bases-loaded walk drawn by Mookie Betts against closer Jhoan Duran.
This set the stage for the Error Heard ‘Round The World. This set the stage for what should absolutely be a second consecutive World Series championship.
Before these playoffs there was a lot of talk about the Dodgers’ late-season struggles that were symbolized by that blown no-hitter in Baltimore. They had no bullpen depth. They had no offensive patience. They were headed for another early October exit.
At least, that’s what outsiders thought. That’s not what the veteran, pressure-proof Dodgers thought.
“I think it boils down to the guys we have in the clubhouse,” said Max Muncy earlier this week. “We have a lot of experience, a lot of really good players. We’ve been there before. We accomplished it.”
Turns out, nobody knew the Dodgers like the players wearing the uniform.
“We knew who we are as a team all year long,” said Muncy. “Even though we weren’t playing up to it at certain points, we trusted who we were. Like I said, we knew who we were in the clubhouse, not one person faulted in there, even in the rough times.”
They were impressive in the four games against the Phillies. Here’s predicting they’re going to get even better before the month ends.
“I still think there’s another gear in there,” said Muncy. “I don’t think we fully reached where we can be at. And that’s not saying we are, and that’s not saying we aren’t. But I still think there’s a whole other level in there we haven’t reached yet.”
The Times’ Bill Shaikin quickly asked, “What would tell you you’ve reached it?”
For my final day, I wanted to do something I’d never done before: swim straight out to sea. When I do open water swimming, I swim parallel to shore. This would be different. No markers. No sight line. Just the horizon. The currents. The waves. On top of this, we would be swimming from Bolinas, a quaint fishing town that is famously hostile to visitors and removes its signs to keep them out. This is where the Bolinas Lagoon opens out to the open ocean. Seals gather here, and the sharks supposedly come here to feast on the seals. I didn’t know if this was just a rumor to keep out-of-town surfers away, but the Farallon Islands just 20 miles south of Point Reyes are the winter playground for some of the world’s largest great white sharks. For this endeavor I enlisted the help of my friend, Greg, a local.
We wore wetsuits. He gave me a cozy neoprene hat to wear over my cap and goggles to keep my head warm. He also provided me with a special anti-shark amulet that I wore on my wrist like a watch. Developed in Australia, these wrist magnets repel the sharks, he said, and “feel like a punch in the nose” to the sharks if they get too close. Sounded good to me!
Swimming with the birds made me feel like I, too, was a wild creature — another element in the web of life rather than the apex predator detached from the natural world that I usually am in my everyday urban existence.
The day dawned foggy, but the low blanket of mist that hugged the land the day before had lifted. I was terrified of swimming straight out and losing sight of land. Greg assured me that even in dense fog you know where land is by sensing the direction of the waves. That may be true, but I wasn’t ready to swim by the feel of the currents yet. Greg also wore tiny flippers that looked like duck feet and a neon bubble attached to his waist to carry our valuables and make us visible to boats. We agreed to swim out 15 minutes.
The waves were big. The surfers were already out at a local spot known as the “patch.” We dove through the waves, swimming hard between. The water visibility was nil — just a blur of yellow, brown and eventually black. We wouldn’t be able to see a seal or shark if it swam right beneath us. I didn’t like the feeling.
But my friend was beside me. Finally my shallow, panicked breath slowed, my stroke evened out and I settled in. Out past the waveline we stopped. The early-morning sea was glassy and smooth. It felt viscous, velvety and otherworldly. Pelicans and terns swooped and dove around us. Surprisingly, once we swam out, I could see the land encircled us with long arms. Stinson Beach stretched out to the right, Bolinas to the left. We would not lose our way. We swam farther out. Every few strokes we stopped to take in the view. We were just specks in the ocean, as tiny as a velella or an anchovy, part of a big, watery world.
Out here my perspective changed. I realized we could swim forever and still see the shore. We lay on our backs and let the swells gently lift us, then fall. The words of my father, a second-generation submariner, often recited when I was a child, drifted through my head: “Rocked in the cradle of the deep, I lay me down in peace to sleep.” We swam to where the glassiness ended and the wind rippled the surface, 14 minutes out.
The magic of the open water experience was better shared. No GoPro or camera can capture the vastness of the ocean for someone back on shore. Or what it feels like to ride the slow heaving of the ocean, pulsing like the heartbeat of the world. We came ashore in a big set, swimming frantically in, then turning to face the waves so we didn’t get wiped out. We swam until our feet touched the sandy bottom and crawled out happy but exhausted.
My body carried the rocking of the ocean for the rest of the day. I could close my eyes and be back there, gently rising and falling under the low, gray sky. I held onto that feeling as long as I could.
My friend promised me that by next year, he would have more bodies of water and more secret swims. Already he had come up with new watering holes I never knew existed. But for me, the quest had been a success. Being in water every day helped me regain my equilibrium. Surfers say the ions in salt water make you happy. I don’t know if it’s true, but I’m 60% water and I felt I had moistened my dry skin, lightened the pull of gravity on my aging body and shed some of the heaviness of the first six months of the year.
When I first went to my therapist many years ago, she told me the story of the selkies. At the time I was feeling overwhelmed with work, marriage and motherhood. Much of our work has been my journey back to myself. After my vacation, I told her of my adventure. She said, “You were able to put your pelt back on. You’re spending more time in your seal suit.” Yes. On land and in the water. I am. Sometimes the metaphor is the medicine.
SAN DIEGO — The San Diego Padres are headed back to the playoffs for the fourth time in six seasons.
The Padres clinched a playoff berth with a 5-4, 11-inning win against the three-time NL-Central champion Milwaukee Brewers on Monday night.
Freddy Fermin, acquired from Kansas City at the trade deadline on July 31, singled in automatic runner Bryce Johnson with one out in the 11th to set off a wild celebration in front of a sellout crowd of 42,371 at Petco Park.
The Padres pulled within 2½ games of the idle Dodgers in the NL West race and 2½ games behind the idle Chicago Cubs in the race for the National League’s first of three wild-card spots.
Manny Machado, shirtless, wearing sunglasses and drenched with beer and Champagne, says he feels good about the team’s chances in the playoffs.
“Everything is different. But we’ve got heart,” Machado said. “Everybody wants it. It’s always a challenge. Baseball’s a challenge. It’s hard.”
Fermin was being interviewed when Machado stopped by and poured a shot of tequila into his mouth.
“I believe with this staff we have, we are going to the World Series,” said Fermin, the catcher. “It is very special, this moment. I don’t have words for this moment. Very special. First step, we’ve got to keep rolling this.”
The Padres’ road appears to be tougher than last year, when they swept the Atlanta Braves in a home wild-card series to earn a shot at the rival Dodgers. San Diego led 2-1 before their bats went so cold that they didn’t score in the last 24 innings as they lost the series in five games. The Dodgers went on to win the World Series.
“What this group has done this year, and even last year, to put this into place, and for us to go to the postseason two years in a row for the first time since 2005-06, is truly special,” second baseman Jake Cronenworth said.
If the current standings hold, the Padres would visit the Cubs for a best-of-three wild-card series. The winner would move into the division series against the Brewers, who clinched their third straight division title on Sunday and are in the postseason for the seventh time in eight seasons.
It’s been an interesting season for the Padres, who led the division for much of April before slipping back as they played .500 ball in May and sub-.500 ball in June. The Dodgers never could open a big lead, but the Padres never could regain the lead, except for brief stretches in August.
General manager A.J. Preller pulled off a major overhaul at the trade deadline, acquiring reliever Mason Miller from the Athletics, Fermin from the Royals and outfielders Ryan O’Hearn and Ramon Laureano from the Orioles.
The Padres became the first big league team to send three relievers to the All-Star Game when Jason Adam, closer Robert Suarez and left-hander Adrián Morejón were selected for the Midsummer Classic. Adam went down with a season-ending quadriceps injury on Sept. 1.
The Padres were prone to offensive slumps, particularly on the road.
But there were some defensive highlights, including several home run robberies by right fielder Fernando Tatis Jr.
Tatis missed the clincher with an undisclosed illness, but Machado included his teammate in the postgame celebration via FaceTime on his phone.
A dream safari in the Serengeti serves up the extremes of life and death for Frances Millar, who w the in was given a front-row seat to witness the credible appetite of a lion
One of the most magical places I’ve been is Lake Saimaa in eastern Finland – a huge labyrinth of islands and tranquil forests where you don’t come across many people. We rented a lakeside cabin (typically they cost from about €100 a night, sleeping two) and watched the midnight sun shimmer across peaceful waters. Days were spent kayaking between uninhabited islets or hiking pine-scented trails, with only the call of black-throated divers (or loons) for company. We visited the Linnansaari national park on an archipelago in the middle of the vast lake (the largest in Finland and fourth largest freshwater lake in Europe), where encounters with rare Saimaa ringed seals await. It’s nature’s embrace at its purest – remote, quiet and utterly rejuvenating. Anthony
Canyons and forests in Montenegro
Crno Jezero (Black Lake) in Zabljak, Montenegro. Photograph: Ingram Publishing/Alamy
Last autumn, I visited Durmitor national park in northern Montenegro, a quiet and beautiful place in the Dinaric Alps. The road there passed through thick pine forests and opened on to wide valleys surrounded by tall, rocky mountains. I walked to the Black Lake (Crno Jezero), where the water was so still it perfectly reflected the autumn colours of the trees. In the hills, shepherds looked after their sheep, and small villages sold fresh cheese and honey. I also gazed down into Tara River Canyon, which is among Europe’s deepest gorges; right at the bottom, several thousand feet below me, I could see the bright turquoise ribbon of the river. Lorna Walkden
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Cycling through the Bosnian countryside
A deserted train station en route to Mostar. Photograph: Anna Fenton
My partner and I cycled the Ćiro trail in Bosnia Herzegovina. We picked up the trail in Ivanica and followed it for more than 80 miles to Mostar. It follows the route of the Dubrovnik to Mostar railway line, which closed in the 1970s, and has a lot of spooky, bat-filled tunnels. We barely met another person on the route. One night we camped overnight in a pub beer garden because we were worried about mines. Stunning scenery, spooky history, and we saw tortoises on the trail. Anna Fenton
Pyrenean hideaway, Spain
Ochagavía in Navarre. Photograph: Marco Unger/Alamy
If there was ever a jaw-dropping way to enter Spain it has to be over the peaks of the Pyrenees to the village of Ochagavía in Navarre. Nestled in the valley of Salazar, its cobbled streets and whitewashed homes are surrounded by rivers, forests and peaks where walkers mingle with birds of prey, chamois, marmots and an occasional hermit. When civilisation and replenishment are needed, Sidrería Kixkia, a restaurant in Ochagavía, will fill your very grateful tank with local cider and a very meaty menu. Liz Owen Hernandez
Remote islands off northern Germany
The horse-drawn trip to Neuwerk, near Cuxhaven. Photograph: Boelter/Alamy
We stayed at the charming seaside resort of Cuxhaven in Germany and took the horse-drawn carriage over mud flats to visit the tidal island Neuwerk with its extraordinary 700-year-old lighthouse. I’d also recommend a ferry trip beyond Neuwerk to incredible Heligoland island to see the 47-metre-high Lange Anna sea stack and the large gannet colony. You can see the craters left by the British in 1947 when the occupying authorities decided to blow up the remaining German military installations on the island in one giant explosion, having already bombed the island severely in 1945. Yet the tiny island with its red cliffs and grassy plateau survived somehow, and is now home to more than 1,000 people. Sue Kyson
Mini-icebergs in Jökulsárlón lagoon. Photograph: Karen Guenzl
Starting in Reykjavík, with my 15-year-old, I took a rental car for a road trip, staying in small hotels and hostels on the way. We went kayaking between icebergs in the Jökulsárlón lagoon, snowmobiling and ice-climbing on the Sólheimajökull glacier and whale-watching near Húsavík. We were amazed to see the molten lava on the Reykjanes peninsula, as well as the interactive volcano museum near Vik. Highlights for my teen included taking a ferry to the island of Grímsey to snorkel with puffins while they were diving for fish. Karen Guenzl
Brittany’s quiet side
Camping in Inguiniel. Photograph: Kevin Atkins
Tucked away in western Morbihan, an hour from Vannes and the Breton coast, Inguiniel is a quiet corner of Brittany, where rolling hills and forests invite you to slow down. We stayed at picture-perfect Camping Pont Calleck, which was ideal as a walking and cycling base. From there we cycled to Le Faouët, a town with a pretty square, a 16th-century market hall, and striking gothic chapels. As evening fell, our ride took us along the River Scorff past weirs and watermills and eventually to a quiet auberge for a traditional Breton meal. Kevin Atkins
Winning tip: bathed in constant daylight, Norway’s Svalbard
Sled dogs in Longyearbyen, Svalbard. Photograph: Hanneke Luijting/Getty Images
The Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard (which used to be called Spitzbergen) in summer is bathed in constant daylight because it is entirely within the Arctic Circle. Dog sledding on wheels is a great way to experience this remote landscape, guiding your teams of eager huskies over the tundra, past mountains necklaced with puffy Arctic cottongrass flowers. Boat trips, passing near the town of Barentsburg, the inhabitants of which are mostly Russian, allow closeup views of slumbering walruses, minke whales and dozens of seals. Nearby, huge cliffs at Alkhornet are the breeding ground for thousands of birds, and below the nests, arctic foxes wait patiently for their next meal. Afterwards, rent a floating sauna cabin, leaping into the sea to cool off. Caroline
You can find it on Spotify in playlists for insomniacs, but on a Friday afternoon on Exmoor, we are happily listening to the real thing: the gorgeous ambient sound made by grasshoppers, birds and the buzzing insects that momentarily fly in and out of earshot.
The view is just as serene: the deep-blue Bristol Channel in the middle distance, golden fields just in front of us and, in our immediate surroundings, huge expanses of grasses and wildflowers. Our tent is pitched between two strips of woodland, which provide just enough shade. To complete the sense of calm wonderment: for 24 hours, we have this piece of land completely to ourselves.
Essentially, we are wild camping, but in a reassuringly managed way. Our spot has been arranged by CampWild, an adventure outfit that started in 2023 and has about 200 approved locations on its books.
A few days before setting off, we are sent our first “route card”, complete with a map, a few warnings (“there is a high risk of midges and ticks in this area”), and the promise of “a sheltered meadow-woodland space ideal for roaming”. Then comes the start of this long weekend: just after lunchtime, I set out on a three-mile walk from a nearby car park with my son James, 18, and daughter Rosa, 16, arriving at our destination in the late afternoon in searing heat. We have made sure to bring three vital litres of water. Once our tent is pitched and the evening’s relative cool arrives, what we half expect materialises: a lovely feeling of time ceasing to matter, which runs through an evening spent eating dinner (the obligatory instant pasta), aimlessly rambling around our surroundings, then marvelling at a sky much starrier than any to be seen in a town or city.
Waiting for dinner … John with Rosa and James
One of CampWild’s rules is that locations must be kept secret, in case word gets out and they are overrun with unauthorised campers. This much I can say: the land we are staying on is part of a regenerative farm that claims to produce 167 varieties of food, and whose proprietors are enthusiastic rewilders and tree-planters. Its co-owner, Kate Hughes, tells me she welcomes campers because “if we don’t have people on the land, they won’t fight for nature: we have to have a relationship as a nation with the natural world that supports us”.
Our somewhat limited knowledge of bird calls suggests that we are in the company of wood pigeons, one or two sparrowhawks and an abundance of blackbirds. We are half hoping to see a deer or two, but although none materialise, it hardly matters – this feels like somewhere teeming with life.
Somewhat inevitably, James and Rosa spend time on their phones, but we soon agree on a compromise: 90 minutes spent listening on a Bluetooth speaker to suitably pastoral music – Nick Drake, Fairport Convention, the acoustic demos for the Beatles’ White Album – before a final hour of stillness and silence, when we begin to drift off to sleep. James has always been much better suited to staying outdoors than in (his first recorded lie-in happened on a Dorset campsite when he was five). So it proves tonight. By 11pm, he is slumbering, while Rosa and I stay awake for another half hour.
Camping con fusilli
CampWild was founded by Alex Clasper and Tom Backhouse, thirtysomething dads whose lifelong passion for the outdoor life was ignited on camping trips arranged by their Devon comprehensive school. Several years after they first met, Backhouse’s sister was involved in a serious car accident, which led him to do a sponsored trek around all of the UK’s national parks to raise money for the air ambulance service that rescued her.
Clasper accompanied him on some of these adventures, which involved a good deal of wild camping and sparked a revelation. “Escaping, getting off grid and spending time in nature was almost like therapy,” Clasper tells me, a few days before I set off. “Sitting under the stars for the evening – that’s where we’ve had some of our deepest and most important conversations.”
Some happy aimless rambling …
For many people, spending a night or two this way can seem daunting: CampWild’s essential modus operandi, Clasper says, is to “give them the confidence and knowledge and knowhow: a bit of guidance and hand-holding”. And what they offer has chimed with the zeitgeist in two ways. Over the past two and a half years, awareness of wild camping has rocketed, thanks partly to the legal tussle between the Dartmoor landowner Alexander Darwall and Right to Roam activists, which was finally settled – in the latter’s favour – by the supreme court in May.
At the same time, the collective yearning for nature, manifested in a deluge of books about hares, footpaths and rivers, has surely accelerated CampWild’s growth. It now has about 4,000 members, who pay a £25 annual fee – £1 of which goes to the environmental charity Rewilding Britain – and are charged about £15 per stay, with fees going to the landowner.
Another rule, aimed at gently enforcing meticulous standards on litter and mess, is that campers must take a before-and-after photo of their spot, and mail it to CampWild within 24 hours. But one question, Clasper tells me, always comes up: what to do about the most basic human functions? Poos must be bagged up and disposed of elsewhere: “There are a couple of spaces that do allow, er … digging, but most don’t fall into that category.” By way of highlighting roughly how to do it, CampWild has a sponsorship agreement with a brand called Dicky Bag, which offers reusable receptacles – usually marketed at dog-owners – with “odour proof seams and seals”. Free weeing, needless to say, is allowed, providing it is done well away from what Clasper calls “water sources”.
Home from home … Rosa making camp
Back in our field, we wake after 7am, and slowly make our way into a morning gripped by more heat. The route back to the car, along a mixture of tree-lined roads and field paths, passes through the Somerset village of Roadwater, where we are offered a lovely kind of respite. Every other month, there is a community breakfast in the village hall, and a meal for the three of us costs little more than £20. We split the afternoon between the village of Porlock and tourist-filled Lynmouth and Lynton, before the temperature begins to ease. We then set off on a 20-minute drive along isolated Exmoor roads, during which a huge deer vaults on to the tarmac 10 metres in front of us and then disappears into the countryside beyond.
This evening’s sleeping spot is stunning. In an area reportedly popular with people walking from Land’s End to John o’Groats, it lies half a mile or so beyond a huge campsite whose residents enjoy snooker-table lawns. Our chosen spot, by contrast, is the knobbly ground in a steep-sided stretch of the Exe valley, directly under a pyramid-shaped hill. The river is right next to us: six or seven metres wide, scattered with pebbled islands. The night sky is particularly vivid: James once again falls asleep almost instantly, while Rosa and I manoeuvre our heads next to the tent door and stare up, half-convinced we might be in the presence of UFOs, before we realise they are – obviously – distant planes, presumably en route to Bristol airport.
As we drive home, I can feel the meditative calm the weekend brought me still lingering, along with the sense that this bucolic version of Airbnb is going to become even more popular. “We want to get 1 million people across the UK out into these spaces, experiencing nature and slowing down,” Clasper tells me. I slightly worry that those imagined multitudes might get in the way of all that gorgeous quiet, but it might just happen.
When an explosion killed three L.A. County sheriff’s deputies last month, Mike Fratantoni thought about 1857.
A horse thief named Juan Flores broke out of San Quentin State Prison, joined a posse that called itself Las Manillas — the handcuffs — and headed south toward Southern California. They robbed stores along the way and murdered a German shopkeeper in San Juan Capistrano. Los Angeles County Sheriff James R. Barton was warned about them but ignored the danger. He and his men were ambushed. Four were killed — Barton, Deputy Charles Daly and constables Charles Baker and William Little. The spot, near the interchange where State Route 133 and the 405 Freeway meet in Irvine, is now called Barton Mound.
Orange County was still a part of L.A. County then, the population was just over 11,000, California was a newly minted state, and the Mexican period was giving way to the Wild West.
“They all died alone with no help coming,” said Fratantoni, the Sheriff’s Department’s staff historian. “Today, you know your partner is coming to help you. People say the job’s dangerous now — it’s never not been dangerous.”
So as Sheriff Robert Luna prepared to hold a news conference hours after the accident at a department training facility in East L.A. took the lives of Dets. Joshua Kelley-Eklund, Victor Lemus and William Osborn, Fratantoni sent over notes about what happened to Barton and his men. That’s how Luna was able to tell the public that the latest line-of-duty deaths to befall the department happened on its deadliest day in more than 160 years, a line quickly repeated by media across the country.
Fratantoni describes himself as the “default button” whenever someone has a question about the Sheriff’s Department’s past, whether it’s a colleague or the public, whether it’s about the positive or the scandalous. He can tell you why female deputies stopped wearing caps (blame the popularity of beehive hairdos in the 1960s) and reveal why longtime Sheriff Eugene Biscailuz was a pioneer in trying to rehabilitate addicts (his father was an alcoholic).
It’s a job the Long Island native has officially held for a decade. He assumed the position with the blessing of then-Sheriff Jim McDonnell to tap into a passion Fratantoni had dabbled in on his own almost from the moment he joined the department in 1999.
“You can’t talk about L.A. County history without us,” Fratantoni said when we met at the Hall of Justice. Outside, the flags remained at half-staff in honor of the dead detectives. He was taking me on a tour of the building’s basement museum, which showcased the histories of the L.A. County Sheriff’s Department, district attorney’s office and coroner. “We’ve been there from Day 1. We were here before the Board of Supervisors. We were here before LAPD. We’ve never closed. We’ve survived it all.”
“We check with Mike on everything,” Luna told me in a phone interview. Last year, the sheriff joined Fratantoni and other current and retired Sheriff’s Department members for the dedication of a plaque to commemorate the 1857 Barton Mound massacre. “You get 10 minutes with him, and wow.”
I was able to get two hours.
Fratantoni is burly but soft-spoken, a trace of a New York accent lingering in his by-the-books cadence. All around us were books, poster boards and newspaper headlines of criminals that Angelenos still remember and those long forgotten, people such as Winnie Ruth Judd, who murdered two friends in Phoenix in 1931 then traveled to Los Angeles by train with their bodies in trunks.
We passed through a row of original L.A. County jail cells that were brought down piece by piece from their original location on the 10th floor of the Hall of Justice. He pointed out a display case of makeshift weapons, tattoo needles and fake IDs created by inmates over the department’s 175 years. I stared too long at a black jacket and AC/DC hat worn by the Night Stalker — serial killer Richard Ramirez.
Fratantoni shows off vintage items used for illegal gambling.
(Luke Johnson / Los Angeles Times)
The museum receives free rent from L.A. County but is otherwise funded and maintained by the Sheriffs’ Relief Foundation and the dollar a month pulled from the paychecks of Sheriff’s Department employees who sign up to support — “We don’t want to be a burden,” Fratantoni explained. It’s not open to the general public, but he frequently hosts deputies, prosecutors, law students and even school field trips.
“The kids come and love this one for some reason,” he said with a chuckle as we passed a narcotics display. “Not my favorite one.”
Fratantoni never rushed me and turned every question I had into a short story that never felt like a lecture. He frequently apologized for random artifacts strewn around — plaques, movie posters, a biography of mobster Mickey Cohen — or displays not lit to his liking. “Am I putting you to sleep yet?” he joked at one point.
The 45-year-old is more than a curator or nerdy archivist. Luna, like his predecessors Alex Villanueva and McDonnell, has entrusted Fratantoni to not just help preserve the department’s history but also imprint its importance on the men and women who are its present and future.
“I have always been a fan of history,” said Luna, who has organized lunchtime lectures about the department and civil rights. For Black History Month in February, Fratantoni spoke about the troubles faced by deputies William Abbott and John Brady, who in 1954 became the department’s first integrated patrol unit.
The recriminations against Abbott, who was Black, and Brady didn’t come from within but rather the residents in West Hollywood they served. “I believe it’s important to teach our deputies where we’ve been and some of the challenges we’ve faced. You can’t help but to want to listen to his stories,” Luna said of Fratantoni.
“Mike is just phenomenal,” said Deputy Graciela Medrano, a 25-year-veteran who was also at the museum the day I visited. A black ribbon stretched across her badge — a sign of mourning, law enforcement style. “I’ll ask him about cases that happened when I was just starting, and he immediately knows what I’m talking about. He makes us all appreciate our department more.”
Every year, Fratantoni speaks to the latest class of recruits about the department’s history. “They know it’s been around but nothing else. So I share photos, I tell stories. And I tell them, ‘You’re getting a torch passed to you, and you’re going to run the next leg.’ You can see their reactions — our history gives them a sense of purpose.”
He’ll also attend community events with other deputies in vintage uniforms or old department cars. “Someone will see it and say, ‘That’s my granddad’s car’ and smile. We can have conversations with the public we otherwise wouldn’t be able to.”
Fratantoni was supposed to focus this year on the department’s 175th anniversary. Another goal was to seek out an interview with Shirley MacLaine, one of the last surviving queens of the Sheriff’s Championship Rodeo, an annual event that used to fill up the Memorial Coliseum and attract Hollywood A-listers.
But 2025 got in the way. We spoke a week before the burials of Osborn and Kelley-Eklund (the services for Lemus have yet to be announced). Fratantoni also sits on the committee charged with putting names on the Los Angeles County Peace Officers’ Memorial.
“I don’t like doing it, and I hope I don’t have to fill out paperwork for it ever again, but if that’s what I have to do, I’m honored to be a part of it,” he said. “I hold it close to my heart.”
Fratantoni in front of a section of the museum that highlights the history of the L.A. County district attorney’s office.
(Luke Johnson / Los Angeles Times)
Even the work commemorating what happened during the Barton Mound massacre remains unfinished. The victims were buried at the old City Cemetery downtown but were moved to Rosedale Cemetery in Mid-City in 1914. No one bothered to mark their new graves, which were lost until researchers discovered them a few years ago. Fratantoni and others are fundraising for new tombstones for their slain predecessors.
He mentioned Daly’s story: Born in Ireland. Came to California for the Gold Rush. Became a blacksmith — he put the shoes on the horses that Barton and his constables were going to use to pursue Las Manillas. A strong, able man whom Barton deputized so he could join them on the day they would all die.
“It’s sad to see people who lost their life be forgotten,” Fratantoni said. “That’s just…”
The historian tasked with talking shook his head in silence.
Lioness fans tuning in to the procession following the historic win were quick to praise manager Sarina Wiegman’s ‘wholesome’ reaction to parade’s surprise musical guest when she appeared alongside him on stage
14:12, 29 Jul 2025Updated 14:12, 29 Jul 2025
Lioness fans were quick to praise Sarina Wiegman’s ‘wholesome’ reaction to parade’s surprise musical guest during the procession following the historic win.
Alex had been chatting to Sarina when she reminded her that last time they spoke following the Euros win in 2022, she had refused to dance because it was the wrong music. This time, however, organisers had managed to Burna Boy to come to the event and give a rendition of his song For My Hand, which originally featured Ed Sheeran.
Sarina Wiegman danced along with Burna Boy during the celebrations
This time, however, he was joined by none other than Sarina herself and sports fans flooded social media with their reaction to the moment, even though the whole collaboration was not something they saw on the cards. One wrote: “@burnaboyand Sarina Wiegman dancing at the #Lionesses homecoming was not something I had expected to see today So wholesome!! Oluwa Burna,” and another said: “Sarina Wiegman dancing up there on that stage is just brilliant.”
Sarina worked the crowds and her dancing became a hit amongst social media users
One praised Sarina for knowing all the words to the 2022 hit single, and another proclaimed: “This is what you call a manager who can have fun, let her hair down and party like her team! Sarina is the one!” whilst a fifth fanatic joked that the Dutch native is ‘never leaving’ the UK.
The crowds cheered as Sarina partied along on stage, and she also explained how she had managed to ‘stay calm’ on the journey to the victory as she joked: “It was chaos. I had hoped for a little less chaos. But they didn’t keep their to promise to finish things quicker! But yeah, as we always have a plan, and we try to execute that, and the players on the pitch, we just kept having hope all the time and belief. And they just showed up when it was really necessary and urgent.”
“I think you start with talent, there’s a huge talent pool within this team, also, what we want to do is play to our strengths but I think that the bonding in this team this time…in 2022, we had great bonding but it’s made the absolute difference now, that everyone was ready to step up and support each other and it was just amazing to be a part of.”
An open-top bus procession took place along The Mall, culminating with a staged ceremony at the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of Buckingham Palace starting at approximately 12:30pm. Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer hailed the team’s triumph, saying: “The Lionesses have once again captured the hearts of the nation. Their victory is not only a remarkable sporting achievement, but an inspiration for young people across the country.
“It stands as a testament to the determination, resilience and unity that define this outstanding team.” Despite the historic achievement, it is understood Downing Street has no plans for a bank holiday to mark the Lionesses’ triumph.
Supporters stood on tables, waved flags, threw drinks in the air and excitedly hugged each other as England claimed victory, while the Prince of Wales and Sir Keir watched on from the stands in Basel. Alessia Russo gave the Lionesses hope of retaining their Euros title with her second-half equaliser after Mariona Caldentey netted the opener for Spain in the 25th minute.
IT was the craziest start to a love affair that survived against the odds for more than 40 years.
Superstar rocker Ozzy Osbourne had been given an envelope stuffed with cash to hand over to Sharon Arden, daughter of his band Black Sabbath’s manager.
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Drugs, fights, affairs – Ozzy Osbourne and wife Sharon Osbourne’s marriage survived against all oddsCredit: Getty
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Ozzy and Sharon pictured in Brazil in 1985
Instead, Ozzy blew the money on cocaine — which he was working his way through when Sharon arrived at his hotel.
Despite being completely off his head, Ozzy, who died on Tuesday age 76, never forgot that first meeting when Sharon asked, “Do you have anything for me?”.
He recalled: “‘No, I don’t think so’, I said, all innocent.
“But it didn’t take Einstein to work out what had happened.
READ MORE ON OZZY OSBOURNE
“There was a massive bag of coke on the table next to a ripped-up envelope with ‘Sharon’ written on it in felt-tip pen.
“Sharon gave me a monumental bollocking when she saw it, shouting and cursing and telling me I was a f***ing disaster.
‘Drunkest and loudest’
“I guess I won’t be shagging her any time soon, then, I thought.
“But she came back the next day, to find me lying in a puddle of my own p**s, smoking a joint.
“She said, ‘Look, if you want to get your s**t together, we want to manage you’.”
That ill-fated meeting led to an incredible marriage that lasted 33 years — despite Ozzy’s drug and sex addiction and even his attempt to strangle Sharon.
Inside Ozzy Osbourne’s final days after historic last show ‘took huge toll’ on his health
In one of his last interviews, Ozzy described the reality TV star and X Factor judge as his “soulmate”.
He said: “Sometimes I love her, sometimes I don’t love her, sometimes I’m angry with her, sometimes I’m crazy about her, sometimes I’m very jealous of her, sometimes I wanna f***ing kill her.
“But through it all, at the end of the day, I love her more than anything in the world.”
As Sharon took over running Ozzy’s professional life, the Brummie lad quickly realised that he had never met a woman like her before.
In his 2009 biography, I Am Ozzy, he revealed: “I’d never come across a girl who was like me.
“Wherever we went, we were always the drunkest and the loudest.
“I learned that when Sharon is on a mission, she’ll throw herself at it, lock, stock and barrel, and not stop fighting until well after the bell’s rung.
“I trusted Sharon like I’d never trusted anyone before on the business side of things.”
Me and Sharon were bonking all over the place. We couldn’t stop. Some nights Sharon would go out of one door and [first wife] Thelma would come in the other
Sharon
When Sharon was relaunching Ozzy as a solo star with a new album, Blizzard Of Ozz, and a tour following his firing from Black Sabbath in 1979, the star’s private life was falling apart.
He was married to Thelma Riley, had adopted her son Elliot from an earlier marriage and they had two kids of their own, Jessica and Louis.
After months of trying, Ozzy finally bedded Sharon after leaping into her bath at a hotel near Shepperton Studios.
He recalled: “Me and Sharon were bonking all over the place.
“We couldn’t stop.
“Some nights, Sharon would go out of one door and Thelma would come in the other.
“I was knackered all the time, having two women on the go.
“I don’t know how those French blokes do it.
“When I was with Sharon, I’d end up calling her ‘Tharon’, which earned me more than a few black eyes.
“I’d never known what it was like to fall in love before I met Sharon.
“We were inseparable.
“I realised that when you’re in love, it’s not just about the messing around in the sack, it’s about how empty you feel when they’re gone. And I couldn’t stand it when Sharon was gone.”
But when he split up with Thelma in 1981, Sharon bore the brunt of Ozzy’s anger.
He said: “I was a wreck.
“I was in love with Sharon, but at the same time I was cut to pieces by losing my family.
“I’d get drunk and try to hit her, and she’d throw things at me.
“Wine bottles, gold discs, TVs — you name it, it would all come flying across the room.
“I ain’t proud to admit that a few of my punches reached their target.”
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Ozzy on tour in Las Vegas in 2002 with his beloved Sharon by his sideCredit: Shutterstock Editorial
But the following year, Ozzy and Sharon married in Hawaii on the way to a gig.
The rocker didn’t make it back to their hotel room after the ceremony.
Sharon recalled: “The manager called and said, ‘Your husband is lying in the hall, will you come and get him’ and I said, ‘No I won’t’.”
While Sharon managed Ozzy’s soaring solo career, the couple welcomed their three children Aimee, 41, Kelly, 40, and Jack, 39.
But she could not curb her husband’s appetite for booze, illegal drugs and prescription pills.
‘Slumped in corridor’
When he got violent, Sharon would take her revenge like the time she took a hammer to all his gold records.
But seven years after their wedding, Ozzy tried to strangle Sharon while high on drugs and Russian vodka, at their 17th Century home in Little Chalfont, Bucks.
The family had gone to their bedrooms after returning from a local Chinese restaurant to celebrate Aimee’s sixth birthday.
Before lunging at Sharon, Ozzy stripped naked and told her: “We’ve had a little talk and it’s clear that you have to die.”
She pressed the panic button, alerting the police.
Ozzy woke up in a cell the next morning with no recollection of the attack, to find he had been charged with attempted murder.
Three months later, ahead of his court case, Sharon visited the rehab centre where Ozzy had been sent to dry out.
In his autobiography, Ozzy recalled how she told him: “I’m going to drop the charges.
“I don’t believe you’re capable of attempted murder, Ozzy.
People keep asking, ‘How come you and Sharon have stayed together all this time?’
Ozzy
“You’re a sweet, gentle man.
“But when you get drunk, Ozzy Osbourne disappears and someone else takes over.
“I want that other person to go away.
“I don’t want to see him again.”
But Ozzy instead developed a prescription pill addiction.
Sharon almost died from colon cancer during the making of their Noughties fly-on-the-wall MTV show, The Osbournes.
While she was still undergoing chemo, the couple retook their vows on New Year’s Eve 2002.
Ozzy revealed: “People keep asking, ‘How come you and Sharon have stayed together all this time?’.
“My answer was the same then as it is now. ‘I’ve never stopped telling my wife that I love her; I’ve never stopped taking her out for dinner; I’ve never stopped surprising her with little gifts’.
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Animal-lovers Ozzy and his wife campaigning against trophy hunting last yearCredit: Ban Trophy Hunting /Animal News Agency
“Unfortunately, I’d never stopped drinking and taking drugs, so the ceremony ended much the same as our original wedding — with me slumped in a corridor, p*ssed out of my brains.”
A year later, Ozzy had a near-fatal quad bike accident on their estate that required multiple surgeries and affected his long-term mobility. In the aftermath of the crash, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease, only going public with the condition in 2020.
Meanwhile, Sharon — who described their life together as “a Shakespeare play” — slipped Ozzy extra sleeping pills in 2016 to extract a confession that he had been having an affair with his hairdresser.
It was also revealed that there were more mistresses.
Devastated, Sharon tried to kill herself but was found by a cleaner.
Jessie Breakwell, who worked as their nanny, said: “Ozzy was obsessed with her.
“They’d giggle and make jokes.
“It was genuine love.”
After Ozzy went to rehab for sex addiction, the couple reconciled and renewed their vows in Las Vegas in 2017.
Sharon admitted: “I love him.
“I can leave if I want, take half of everything and go. I don’t want to.”
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Ozzy was obsessed with his wifeCredit: Getty
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Sharon and Ozzy as youngstersCredit: Getty – Contributor
Wild and hilarious Ozzy stories
1. Ozzy once told Sharon: “Don’t cremate me, whatever you do.
“I want to be put in the ground, in a nice garden somewhere, with a tree over my head.
“A crabapple tree, preferably, so the kids can make wine out of me and get pissed out of their heads.
“As for what they’ll put on my headstone, I ain’t under any illusions.
“If I close my eyes, I can already see it:
“Ozzy Osbourne, born 1948
“Died, whenever.
“He bit the head off a bat.”
2. Ozzy decided to stop using acid while recording Black Sabbath album Vol 4.
He said: “I took ten tabs of acid then went for a walk in a field.
“I ended up standing there talking to this horse for about an hour.
“In the end, the horse turned around and told me to f**k off.
“That was it for me.”
3. The rocker began tattooing himself as a teenager while growing up in Birmingham.
He said: “I even put a smiley face on each of my knees to cheer myself up when I was sitting on the bog in the morning.”
Decades later he had ‘thanks’ tattooed on his right palm.
He said: “It seemed like a brilliant idea at the time.
“How many times do you say ‘thanks’ to people during your lifetime?
“Tens of thousands, probably.
“Now all I had to do was raise my right hand.”
4. The Osbournes had a donkey called Sally, who used to sit in the living room with Ozzy and watch Match Of The Day.
5. Former slaughterhouse worker Ozzy claimed to have killed his family’s cats while high.
He recalled: “I was taking drugs so much I was a f***ed.
“The final straw came when I shot all our cats.
“We had about 17, and I went crazy and shot them all.
“My wife found me under the piano in a white suit – a shotgun in one hand and a knife in the other.”
6. The Prince of Darkness was interested in the Bible.
He said: “I’ve tried to read it several times.
“But I’ve only ever got as far as the bit about Moses being 720 years old, and I’m like, ‘What were these people smoking back then?’”
7. Ozzy met the late Queen at the Royal Variety Performance.
He recalled: “I was standing next to Cliff Richard.
“She took one look at the two of us, and said, “Oh, so this is what they call variety, is it?” then cracked up laughing.
“I honestly thought Sharon must have slipped some acid into my cornflakes that morning.”
8. Ozzy loved putting hidden messages in songs.
He said: “On No Rest For The Wicked, if you play Bloodbath In Paradise backwards, you can clearly hear me saying, ‘Your mother sells whelks in Hull’.”
The picturesque river has been described as the ‘most beautiful wild swimming spot’
The ‘fairytale’ views impress walkers and swimmers(Image: Getty)
The Peak District is a wild swimmer’s paradise, famous for its stunning walks and waterfalls. One unmissable spot is Three Shires Head. As the meeting point of Cheshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire on the River Dane, it makes a perfect day trip from cities such as Manchester and Sheffield.
Or, if you’re lucky enough to live even closer, it’s a wonderful afternoon out. Visitors say that it “feels like a hidden world” with “views that make you stop in your tracks.”
The picturesque setting makes the perfect backdrop for a scenic walk, picnic, or swim – if you can brave the cold water. I visited for the first time recently, keen for a cooling dip on a warm July day, and it’s already one of the best things I’ve done all summer.
After parking in a nearby lay-by, it took us approximately 30 minutes to walk the rocky path that descends to the river. It was well worth the effort when we reached the pools and the small waterfalls found near the packhorse bridge.
Understandably, it was very busy when we arrived around midday on a Saturday, with groups playing music and families enjoying ball games. So if you’re looking for a tranquil swimming spot, you’ll likely need to wait until the end of the summer season. Alternatively, you could plan an early morning visit to secure a quiet spot around one of the smaller pools, perfect for a dip or a chilled morning spent taking in the fairytale scenery.
Three Shires Head is where the counties of Staffordshire, Cheshire and Derbyshire meet(Image: Getty)
Everyone in my group agreed we’d love to go back another time, so it’s somewhere I’d definitely recommend if you’re planning a wild swim and you’re comfortable with the sloped, rocky walk. Just remember to take care and pack any essentials you’ll need, such as water bottles.
Praising the spot on TripAdvisor, one visitor wrote: “An amazingly beautiful place with walks all around. Great for open air bathing. Take care though, the water is cold so know your stuff.”
Sharing advice, someone else said: “Lots of reviews have said it is a bit of a walk to get here, but I found a website that suggested a short route, which took about 15/20 minutes. There was plenty of parking in the lay-by.
“Slight climb down a ladder, but OK if you have good mobility. The walk is through fields with sheep so if you have a dog, please keep them on lead (like we did). We found a little spot where nobody else was, but we were there early, and people started to arrive by midday.
“It was a really hot day, but the water was still quite chilly. There are some lovely little waterfalls and the water is clean. There’s no shops nearby so make sure you take everything you need for the time you plan to spend there- drinks, food, suncream etc.”
Meanwhile, an impressed visitor said: “Three Shires Head feels like a hidden world, waterfalls, old packhorse bridges, and proper peace and quiet. It’s a stunning spot for a ramble, with views that make you stop in your tracks. A proper breath of fresh air.”
The closest postcode for Three Shires Head is SK11 0BQ, and there is free parking in the lay-by on the A54. The closest train station, Macclesfield Station, is 25 minutes away. However, you will need a car to drive from the station.
Wild swimming can be dangerous. Always be aware of the risks and follow safety recommendations.
A meal in Tuscany’s Valdichiana. Plus, L.A.’s best new Armenian restaurant. Avner Levi’s cherry-topped hamachi crudo. The chicken Caesar wrap comeback. And the best wedding gifts for restaurant lovers. I’m Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week’s Tasting Notes.
Something wild
Pasta with wild mint pesto made with walnuts and pine nuts at Massimo Giavannini’s Osteria La Vecchia Rota.
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
Most of the time we travel to escape our everyday lives, to experience something new. But sometimes we travel to return to something familiar.
I’ve been returning to the same part of Italy, an Umbrian town where it’s easy to slip across the A1 into Tuscany, for more than 20 years. For many of those years I’ve made my way to Osteria La Vecchia Rota in Marciano della Chiana, a small fortress town between Arezzo and Siena.
Two things bring me back. Certainly, there is the food, intensely local pastas and roasted meats you are unlikely to find in any of the thousands of Italian restaurants that exist in the U.S.
And then there is the proprietor, Massimo Giavannini, who appears before you in a burgundy-red chef’s apron and matching chef’s hat that, in contrast to the stiff toques favored by classically trained French chefs, flops jauntily to the side — a sign of friendliness and approachability.
You can order from a printed menu, but most of the time, if he is not handling a rush of orders in the kitchen, Giavannini — who has called himself “the innkeeper with a passion for organic produce” — prefers to describe the dishes for you in his distinctive raspy voice. These are the moments you realize you have found yourself in the hands of a passionate cook, one who wants you to understand what is special about the ingredients that will go into your food.
“You know pesto,” he said on one visit, “but our grandmother and grandfather made another pesto. We make it with selvatica mint [or wild mint], good garlic, good oil, pine nuts and walnuts.”
He explains that the portulaca, or purslane, which sauces his tortelli, is critical to the region in summer — for people and for animals — “because inside the leaf it’s like water … it’s important for energy, to cool off.”
Of the black truffle-topped ricotta gnudi I always order, he says, “Ours are green because they are made with … “
He struggles with the English word and then smiles big when I ask, “nettles?”
“Yes!” he says. We have done this information exchange before and I love it every time. Often, I’ll learn something new, but mostly I like being in his now-familiar presence.
Gnudi made with nettles and topped with shaved black truffles at Massimo Giavannini’s Osteria La Vecchia Rota.
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
Of course, it was my late husband and this paper’s previous restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold, who first brought me and our kids — and then our friends — to La Vecchia Rota thanks to his obsession with trying as many places in the guidebook Osterie d’Italia, put out by Italy’s Slow Food organization. I didn’t see it in this year’s guide, but at one point La Vecchia Rota — specializing, as its website says, in “the now-forgotten cuisine of the Valdichiana” — was awarded a “snail,” the guide’s highest ranking for restaurants that epitomize Slow Food’s cook-local ethos.
Last month, a big group of us gathered in the piazza outside the restaurant, where tables are set out in the summer for al fresco dinners. Plates of our favorite pastas were passed around, including one of hand-cut squares of dough sauced with pears and Pecorino cheese and another made with Tuscany’s big-bulbed garlic known as aglione di Valdichiana, then platters of chicken “made the way it used to be,” roast pork, onions cooked in the ashes of the wood-fired oven and some of the best potatoes I’ve ever eaten.
We may have been a group of outsiders with no actual roots in this land, but after being fed here by Giavannini year after year, this corner of Tuscany has started to feel a bit like home.
Freshly baked
A spread of dishes, including fresh-baked breads, stews and an omelet with basturma at Tun Lahmajo in Burbank.
(Ron De Angelis / For The Times)
Ever since I shared a meal with critic Bill Addison early in his research for this week’s review of Tun Lahmajo in Burbank, I haven’t stopped craving the Armenian restaurant’s many meaty and cheesy breads, stews and roasted potatoes hand-mashed at the table. Since then, I’ve tried to get other people to come try what Addison calls “L.A.’s best new Armenian restaurant” — in part because Tun Lahmajo serves dishes that go beyond the classic repertoire of charcoal-grilled meats and sides we’ve come to love in Southern California. I wasn’t always successful. Maybe now, with Addison’s official blessing on the place, I can persuade my friends to come along.
Red hot
The founders of Dave’s Hot Chicken work the line in their East Hollywood parking lot pop-up in 2017.
(Dave’s Hot Chicken)
“A trio of friends — all from L.A.’s Armenian community, and all high school dropouts — scraped together $900 in 2017 because they believed that their Nashville-style fried chicken stand was the future,” writes Food’s reporter Stephanie Breijo. “Now Dave’s Hot Chicken is worth $1 billion.”
Breijo describes howArman Oganesyan, Tommy Rubenyan and Dave Kopushyan (a former line cook at Thomas Keller‘s now-closed Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills) went from an unpermitted pop-up in an East Hollywood parking lot to the central figures in “one of L.A.’s most astounding small-business success stories” after being acquired in June by private equity firm Roark Capital.
It’s a classic L.A. story — one more national fast-food chain born in Southern California. Of course, Dave’s is not the L.A. restaurant that popularized hot chicken in Southern California. That would be Howlin’ Ray’s started in 2015 by Johnny Ray Zone. He gives full credit to the Black cooks of Nashville, who started bringing the fire to fried chicken, especially the family behind Prince’s Hot Chicken, started in the 1930s by Thornton Prince after an angry lover tried to get her revenge on the philandering entrepreneur with an overdose of spice on his fried chicken. (The name of the woman who made that first fuming batch seems to have been lost to history.) Angelenos have access to the Prince legacy through Kim Prince, who partnered with Dulan’s on Crenshaw owner Greg Dulan to start the Dulanville Food Truck.
Back in 2020, columnist Jenn Harris made hot fried chicken with Prince and Zone for her Bucket List video series. It still makes good watching.
With a cherry on top
Cento Raw Bar chef Avner Levi prepared hamachi crudo with cherries and jalapeno in the L.A. Times Test Kitchen.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
Cento Raw Bar has become one of L.A.’s hottest new restaurants of 2025. Its chef, Avner Levi, came to the Times Test Kitchen recently for our “Chef That!” video series to show us how he makes hamachi crudo, fresh jalapeños and an unusual but delicious addition of sweet cherries. Watch Levi break down half of a hamachi into two filets and then transform the fish into a perfect summer appetizer in this video. Then try the recipe for yourself. It’s a wonderful summer dish.
Closings
Shibumi chef David Schlosser prepares the mackerel dish shime saba in a style that originated over 250 years ago.
(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Times)
Reporter Lauren Ngtalked withShibumi chef-owner David Schlosser about his decision to close the Kappo omakase-style restaurant on Saturday. “In the end of 2023 to 2024, things really flattened out,” he said. “The staff is the same, the recipes were the same. The only thing that wasn’t the same was people just weren’t coming in.”
And in another loss for downtown L.A., Verve Coffee Roasters has closed its Spring Street location, the first shop it opened in Southern California. “Like many businesses in downtown L.A., we saw lasting changes in foot traffic patterns that deeply affected day-to-day operations,” a Verve spokesperson told Ng in an email. “The level of consistent foot traffic simply didn’t support what is needed to sustain the cafe in a high-overhead environment like downtown.” Its other L.A. locations remain open.
Chef Michael Mina‘s Mother Tongue in Hollywood has also closed, and Cabra, the Peruvian-inspired restaurant from Girl & the Goat chef Stephanie Izard at downtown L.A.’s Hoxton hotel is closing on July 31.
Also …
Contributor Kelly Dobkin says the much-maligned and often soggy chicken Caesar wrap is making a comeback “with some much-needed upgrades.” In her guide to some of the best new-style and classic chicken Caesar wraps, she’s seeing better bread for the croutons (from Jyan Isaac Bread at Dialog Cafe and Alfalfa), better wrap choices (grilled Mejorado flour tortillas at Ggiata) and sometimes changing up the croutons themselves (falafel croutons cooked in beef tallow at Mini Kabob and tortilla chips instead of croutons plus cotija cheese instead of Parmesan at Casa Vega).
Could this be the start of a wedding gift trend? Jenn Harris tells the story of Liv Dansky and Jeffrey Rosenthal, a couple who skipped the usual wedding registry requests and asked for gift cards to L.A. restaurants instead of an Instant Pot or even honeymoon contributions. Dansky was new to L.A. so when their guests came through with gift cards for restaurants all over the city — including Musso & Frank, Bavel, Osteria Mozza, Playa Provisions, République and Pink’s Hot Dogs — they started exploring the city through food and fell in love with their new home. “I lived in a lot of cool places, but in L.A., anything you want is accessible,” Dansky says. “On the weekends, we can spend the entire day running around, eating and exploring new neighborhoods. It’s the best way to get to know a city.”
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‘Aliens!” The call came loud and shrill from the trees as I scanned the foliage for the unmistakable shape of my four-year-old son. For a moment, nothing stirred. The beams of light from the sun spotlit a nearby clump of bracken so intensely it reminded me of the torches Mulder and Scully used in The X Files.
Then, a rustle came from up ahead. “Quick! I found them,” he yelled before disappearing into a clearing between the pines. I walked on, to find, in front of us, the curved edges and spherical lines of a UFO, coloured so dark it nearly blended into the shadows. It was, of course, a metal sculpture representing the alien vessel said to have landed here over 40 years ago. On top of it stood my son.
Even before I managed to take a decent picture, he wanted to run on again. “We’ve got to find number four now,” he declared.
We were in Suffolk’s Rendlesham Forest, a 15-mile drive from Ipswich, walking a free UFO trail, based on the sighting of unexplained flying objects by US military officers based here in 1980. Loving to follow a trail of any kind over several hours – but especially one where he can tick off numbers, so he knows there is an end (handily, this one culminates in a playground) – he walked, ran and skipped the three miles, while I enjoyed spending time outside with him.
When it comes to the summer holidays, it can feel as if we are doing a countdown. Of the 13 weeks most children get off school each year, six are lumped together over the summer, making July and August feel like a stretch of endless time. Not only can it be a nightmare, due to the juggle of childcare and work, but keeping kids entertained and – crucially – active rather than sat in front of screens can be expensive. So many activities cost a fortune. But there is another way. And it is completely free. And that is the outdoors.
The UFO-themed walk was on Forestry England land, which is one of the first places to turn during the holidays. From interactive app-based trails that allow you to take videos of your child pretending to be a dragon complete with AI wings, to crafting missions where you work together to find natural items on the woodland floor to make the face of the Gruffalo, they are an inexpensive way to immerse yourself in nature.
On the UFO trail, a free leaflet at the start guided us around the trees where I could tell the story of the key sites. My son was so enamoured of the map and tale that the next morning at breakfast he asked me to read it again while he followed the map with his finger and remembered our adventure.
Phoebe Smith and her son with Maggie Hambling’s scallop shell on Aldeburgh beach.
But an outdoor adventure doesn’t have to be deep in the forest, where maps are required. The next day, we headed to Thorpeness, home to the much-photographed House in the Clouds, a former water tower that was disguised as a red and black clapboard house in 1923. Our mission was to find a way to get a good photograph of it. We followed a footpath up a hill, past quirkily painted weatherboarded houses which were popular after the first world war. While I was in awe of the house we had come to see, my little one found it way more exciting to discover the windmill opposite (bought by the creator of the House in the Clouds to help pump the water).
Adjacent to Thorpeness is the town of Aldeburgh, where we spent hours on the shingle beach filling buckets with “magic stones”, chasing the waves, paddling in the North Sea and taking shelter under Maggi Hambling’s giant scallop shell sculpture when rain fell. The day was rounded off with a hearty helping of fish and chips from Aldeburgh Fish and Chips, owned by the same family since 1967. Weeks on, my son still talks about this day as one of the best in his life.
Beaches are always a winner when trying to convince kids that nature is cool. On a previous trip, I took my boy to New Quay in Ceredigion, west Wales (one of a few places that lay claim to being the inspiration for the characters and town in Dylan Thomas’s Under Milk Wood). We didn’t set foot indoors for an entire day. When the tide was out, we set up a beach “base camp” with some shade under a giant parasol, then proceeded to bury each other in the sand. Then we looked for jellyfish washed up on the shore (a great opportunity to teach him about them), went rock pooling in the shallows (we found crabs, limpets, anemones and periwinkles) and built an elaborate fortified river, hewn from the silt using our buckets and spades.
As the temperature rose, we swam in the sea and, just before the end of the day, we were treated to a spectacle of the resident bottlenose dolphins putting on an impromptu performance at dusk. None of this cost a penny. Yet we’d shared some of the best quality time I’ve experienced – bonding over the natural world, revelling in getting sand between our toes, and shivering in the cool waters of the Irish Sea.
An e-bike adventure on the Isle of Mull
For something that feels like a bigger trip to my son, I try to involve a train. A couple of summers ago, we took the fast train to Scotland, then caught the ferry to the Isle of Mull as foot passengers. There, I hired an e-bike with a child seat and trailer, and we stopped off to wild camp near a loch. He helped me put up the tent, I cooked our dinner on a stove and we bonded over a shared love of marshmallows.
We stayed up watching the sunset, despite it being way past his bedtime. “I love the sun so much,” he told me as we saw the sky turn purple. “I don’t want to go to sleep.” He did, thankfully, nod off under a sky full of stars, with not a mention of Bluey, Peppa Pig or any of the other characters he usually demands entertain him. On one of the last days, we woke before dawn. I packed a chocolate croissant in my bag and we climbed the nearest hill to watch the sun rise. He still talks about it and asks when we will do it again.
One of my most memorable trips with him was paddleboarding on the river near our house. I packed a picnic and we paddled to an island, where we sat and watched the birds, while he asked what each one was called and demanded we collect some of their lost feathers to take home, in the hope we might one day be able to make a cape that allowed us to fly back here.
Memories like this are priceless. I know, given his age, he probably won’t remember everything we do, but I hope going into the wild places will instil in him a knowledge that the natural world is a wondrous place and the backdrop to some of our happiest times together. For me, it helps to remember that when it comes to the holidays, instead of counting the days, I need instead to make the days count.
Phoebe Smith is the author of Wayfarer and the2025 recipient of the Royal Geographical Society’s Ness award for promotion of accessible adventure, particularly to women and those from underprivileged communities