A STUNNING UK railway route has officially welcomed back passengers for their journeys – following a £1.4m revamp.
Although this route spans only 26 miles, the overall stretch takes approximately an hour to complete.
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The UK’s ‘most scenic railway route’ has welcomed back passengersCredit: AlamyThe journey includes stunning scenery like rolling hillsides and waterfallsCredit: Alamy
The Conwy Valley Line runs across Llandudno and Blaenau Ffestiniog, showcasing breathtaking Welsh scenery including waterfalls and rolling hillsides.
On Monday, October 27, the popular railway line welcomed back its passengers.
Network Rail carried out four weeks worth of intensive engineering work.
This forms part of a £1.4million scheme, intended to strengthen the railway’s resilience during harsh weather conditions.
Furthermore, crews have cleared 600,000m2 of vegetation and removed dangerous trees along a track spanning 54 miles.
It is hoped that this will stop fallen trees obstructing the line in the event of a future storm.
In addition to this, Network Rail also tested out an innovative new rail treatment for the Conwy Valley Line.
A gel solution was applied to the rails, which is hoped to break down leaf contamination.
Overall, this gel remains effective for up to seven days before then reactivating with rain.
Network Rail said in a statement: “The Conwy Valley line is one of the most picturesque in Wales, but also one of the most weather-exposed.
“In the past decade, storms have forced the line to close for more than 500 days – disrupting passengers and the transportation of freight goods.”
Describing the rail line, an enthusiastic passenger wrote on TripAdvisor: “It’s utterly spectacular and crams more into an hour than the ECML does into four.
“One of the nicest little tours you can do in the UK is a loop of Chester-Llandudno Jn-Blaenau-Porthmadog-Machynlleth-Shrewsbury-Chester, though you’ll probably need to use a bus rather than the FfR for the middle bit at present.”
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Earlier this month, Brits planning to head home for Christmas were warned to brace for weeks of rail chaos.
Commuters and holidaymakers will face more than a fortnight of disruption fromChristmasDay through to the New Year.
This will see major stations all caught in the crossfire of an engineering shutdown.
Network Railsays the work will boost thepowersupply to trains and strengthen the railway’s foundations, but passengers can expect plenty of pain before the gain.
Meanwhile, it was recently revealed that a new £2.7million train station is coming to the UK – in a huge boost for a tiny mining town.
A revised plan tomodernise train travelin the north of Newcastle-under-Lyme was completed and awaiting council approval.
Developed by East Midlands Railway and National Rail – the £2.7m project is backed by Kidsgrove Town Deal Board.
From the 18th century, Kidsgrove grew around coal mining, although the pits have now closed.
The original proposals for the new railway were scrapped due to historical mining issues which would have cost up to £13 million to sort out.
A revised project to upgrade its railway station is only awaiting formal approval from Newcastle-under-Lyme Borough Council reported RailBusinessDaily.
Network Rail carried out four weeks worth of engineering work in the areaCredit: Alamy
The Conwy Valley Line weaves through the dramatic valleys of Blaenau Ffestiniog, skirts a wildlife-abundant estuary and traces the rolling hillsides and striking rock faces of this breathtaking corner of North West Wales
16:03, 29 Oct 2025Updated 16:04, 29 Oct 2025
Why not visit the Fairy Glen and River Conwy, near Betws y coed?(Image: chris smith / 500px via Getty Images)
One of Britain’s most picturesque railway routes has welcomed passengers back after reopening to the public.
The Conwy Valley Line weaves through the dramatic valleys of Blaenau Ffestiniog, skirts a wildlife-abundant estuary and traces the rolling hillsides and striking rock faces of this breathtaking corner of North West Wales.
Despite covering just 26 miles between Llandudno and Blaenau Ffestiniog, the journey takes over an hour. This is mainly because of the line’s winding and steep character, which snakes through the spectacular mountains and wild beauty of Snowdonia National Park.
Whilst the route primarily serves local residents and daily commuters, it has become a magnet for railway enthusiasts. One visitor praised on Tripadvisor: “The line from Blaenau Ffestiniog up to Llandudno is incredibly scenic, and if you’re looking for a rail journey in Snowdonia this is right up there with the heritage narrow gauge lines.”
During a debate about Britain’s most beautiful railway routes, one rail enthusiast commented: “How has nobody mentioned the Conwy Valley? It’s utterly spectacular and crams more into an hour than the ECML does into four. One of the nicest little tours you can do in the UK is a loop of Chester-Llandudno Jn-Blaenau-Porthmadog-Machynlleth-Shrewsbury-Chester, though you’ll probably need to use a bus rather than the FfR for the middle bit at present.”, reports the Express.
The railway line welcomed passengers back on Monday, 27 October, after a month of round-the-clock engineering work by Network Rail, forming part of a £1.4 million investment to strengthen the railway against severe weather conditions.
Throughout the past four weeks, engineering crews have been operating across the picturesque valley – felling dangerous trees and clearing 600,000m2 of overgrown vegetation spanning 54 miles of railway track. The extensive clearance work aims to stop fallen trees from obstructing the line when storms strike in future.
An innovative, cutting-edge approach to tackling the traditional issue of leaves on the line is also being tested.
Network Rail has introduced a pioneering rail treatment to the Conwy Valley line for the first time in Wales. A specialist road-to-rail vehicle has been applying a gel formula to the tracks.
The treatment dissolves leaf debris and remains active for up to seven days before being reactivated by rainfall.
“The Conwy Valley line is one of the most picturesque in Wales, but also one of the most weather-exposed. In the past decade, storms have forced the line to close for more than 500 days – disrupting passengers and the transportation of freight goods,” Network Rail wrote in a statement.
Beyond its scenic beauty, the line offers numerous attractions at various stations along the route. Visitors can:
Experience life as a Welsh slate miner at Llechwedd, where you can join a deep mine tour, go off-road in a quarry explorer, or have a go at slate splitting. From the mine, you can take a ride on Europe’s steepest cable railway as you’re brought back to the surface.
Learn about local life at Llandudno Museum and Gallery, which is located in the heart of this seaside town. It is a great place to uncover the fascinating stories of local people and how the area has developed over hundreds of years.
Discover hidden gems as you explore the Conwy Valley line on foot with Ramblers and Transport for Wales. Travel by train and explore on foot with a series of exciting walking routes with Go Jauntly and Transport for Wales.
Request a stop at Roman Bridge. The station is an ideal starting point for walkers and cyclists looking to explore the area’s breathtaking scenery. Take in the views of the secluded cwm of Blaenau Dolwyddelan before walking to Dolwyddelan Castle, the 12th-century stronghold of Prince Llywelyn the Great.
Stop off at Deganwy. The town overlooks Snowdonia, the Conwy Estuary, Puffin Island, and Anglesey. Just behind the town is the site of Castell Deganwy, once the seat of King Maelgwn Gwynedd. This much-visited attraction (rebuilt by Henry III in 1245) dates back to the 6th century and plays an important role in the history of Wales.
Frolic in the spray of a waterfall. The Conwy Falls are located near Vetws-y-Coed and cascade down a gorge in the Fairuy Glen area.
It’s hard to believe this stunning town is within the UK, and it’s the perfect place for Brits to get away
The area boasts incredible views of the sea(Image: Getty)
Tucked away in North Devon, this charming town offers a seaside escape with views so breathtaking it’s been likened to Switzerland.
Lynton & Lynmouth is famed for its awe-inspiring natural beauty, attracting Brits who are keen to experience its unique environment, which feels worlds away from the rest of England. Indeed, its spectacular waterfalls and expansive landscapes could easily be mistaken for those found in a mountainous European town, rather than a British coastal resort.
These vistas can be admired from the famous Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, offering families the opportunity to ascend high into the mountains. This isn’t your average railway – it’s multi-award-winning, having first opened its doors in 1890 as the steepest and highest entirely water-powered railway in the world.
The cliff railway itself is a major draw for tourists, nestled in the heart of Exmoor National Park. It seamlessly connects the towns of Lynton and Lynmouth, providing unforgettable coastal views that will stay etched in your memory forever.
Its iconic structure is one of only three of its kind globally and remains a grade II listed building. With regular services throughout the day, waiting times are typically short, and prices are reasonable at just £3.75 for adults and £2.25 for children, reports the Express.
One holidaymaker took to TripAdvisor to share their delightful experience, writing: “Had an amazing time here, Lynton is a town with shops and beautiful scenery. You have the cliff railway to Lynmouth village that took my breath away. It was an overwhelmingly little village that definitely had little Switzerland feel.”
Another traveller added: “Excellent village and fantastic view; you can feel like you’re in a small village in Switzerland, and the village is absolutely free compared with Clovelly, where you have to pay to see the village.
“When you get to Lynton, you have to go by Cliff Railway, which will cost you around 11 pounds for a family of four but is absolutely worth it.”
The charming twin villages are nestled within Exmoor National Park, a haven of tranquillity and serenity. Whether you’re seeking breathtaking views of babbling brooks and deep valleys or yearning for a sense of adventure, the national park caters to all.
Tucked away within the park are several stunning waterfalls, reminiscent of those found across the picturesque landscapes in Switzerland. Two particularly renowned ones are Watersmeet, nestled quietly within woodland and coastal trails.
However, to witness them in their full splendour, it’s best to visit after a heavy downpour.
A visitor shared on TripAdvisor: “A walk down steeply wooded paths, with many seats along the way to stop and admire the place, to a magical meeting of two rivers and waterfalls. A charming house, now a cafe, offers delicious food, and there are many trails to explore.”
For fans of the director, one iconic location lies much closer to home and it is guaranteed to take your breath away
08:00, 25 Oct 2025Updated 08:28, 25 Oct 2025
You may recognise Henrhyd falls from a Hollywood hit(Image: Getty)
When you think of Christopher Nolan’s films, your mind might wander to the Parisian boulevards from Inception, New York’s skyscrapers doubling as Gotham in Batman, or even the expansive New Mexico desert featured in Oppenheimer.
However, for devotees of the groundbreaking British director, one iconic location is much closer to home and it’s sure to leave you breathless.
Nestled deep within a wooded gorge on the fringes of the Brecon Beacons, there lies a waterfall so spectacular that it was chosen as a filming location for a major Hollywood blockbuster.
Yet, many Welsh locals may not even be aware of its existence.
Henrhyd Falls, the tallest waterfall in South Wales, was selected by Christopher Nolan as the entrance to the Batcave in his entire The Dark Knight trilogy. Scenes featuring the Black Tumbler – the massive tank-like Batmobile – soaring through the Welsh waters into the superhero’s clandestine lair were filmed here, reports the Express.
But fear not, you don’t need to be the Caped Crusader to visit this waterfall. There’s no need for any of Bruce Wayne’s gadgets, perhaps just a sturdy pair of boots will do.
Your journey begins with a walk along a path through verdant woodland near the village of Coelbren. Here, you can already hear the sound of rushing water in the distance.
A steep yet well-maintained footpath then guides you down into the gorge, winding towards the waters.
After a 20-minute stroll, you’re greeted by the breathtaking sight of a 27-metre waterfall cascading into a moss-lined gorge.
This might trigger memories of Batman’s secret lair from The Dark Knight Rises, as this very waterfall was featured prominently when John Blake, aka Robin, stumbles upon the hidden entrance to the Batcave.
What transforms Henrhyd from just a picturesque scene to a location with Hollywood status is its inherent drama. The waterfall tumbles over a hard sandstone ledge, known locally as the “Farewell Rock”, into a narrow gorge enveloped by dense forest.
It’s slightly off the beaten path, giving it that elusive “hidden lair” feel.
One recent visitor was utterly captivated by the experience, leaving a glowing review: “Henrhyd Falls is absolutely stunning – a hidden gem surrounded by beautiful nature. The walk down to the waterfall is scenic and peaceful, and standing behind the falls is an unforgettable experience. The sound of the rushing water and the lush greenery make it feel magical.”
The optimal time to visit is after a light rain shower, when the waterfall is at its most dramatic, although the paths can be slippery, particularly if you venture behind the curtain of water.
Early mornings are usually quieter, and sturdy footwear is essential – along with a waterproof if you plan to get close enough to feel the spray.
Henrhyd Falls is a must-visit for nature lovers and Batman enthusiasts alike. Even if the Batmobile isn’t spotted in the shadows, visitors will undoubtedly leave with the sense of having uncovered one of Wales’s most captivating hidden gems.
The Hafren Forest in Mid Wales has been named as the UK’s most popular autumn walk. t’s a stunning forest with a rich history and a variety of walking trails
This is Hafren Forest in its quietest, most enchanting season(Image: Portia Jones )
As you step onto the woodland path, the first thing you’ll notice is the fresh air tinged with the earthy aroma of damp pine and moss, a sensory nod to nature in its wildest form.
Welcome to the lesser-known Hafren Forest in Mid Wales, home to tumbling waters, marked trails and the birthplace of a formidable river. The forest’s name, Hafren, derives from the Welsh term for the River Severn (Afon Hafren), which embarks on its impressive journey to the sea from this very spot.
This meticulously managed woodland boasts a rich history and numerous trails to discover. According to TikTok data, it has just been crowned the most popular autumn walk in the UK, showcasing its beauty best during the autumn and winter months. Other walking spots across the Peak District, Scotland, and the Lake District have also secured spots in the top 10.
If you’re up for a challenge, the Source of the Severn Trail is the ultimate adventure(Image: Portia Jones )
To encourage folks to soak up the great outdoors and enjoy quality time together without breaking the bank, caravan holiday providers Parkdean Resorts have revealed the UK’s favourite autumn walks and are offering a 20% discount on four-night staycations this autumn.
Overseen by Natural Resources Wales, the forest strikes a balance between commercial forestry, conservation, and public enjoyment, making it an essential habitat for wildlife and a sanctuary for outdoor enthusiasts and walkers, reports Wales Online.
Originally established as a timber production forest, Hafren Forest has evolved into a beloved and accessible spot for walkers. Its blend of natural splendour, historical features, and well-kept trails draw visitors throughout the year.
The trails are clearly marked and welcoming, meandering through clusters of pines and firs, their natural symmetry creating overhead archways that frame the path ahead.
The winding river is the star attraction here. The Afon Hafren, more commonly known as the River Severn, commences its journey on the slopes of Pumlumon, with its concealed source lying just beyond the forest’s edge.
You’ll see rushing waterfalls here(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Initially, it’s merely a tranquil stream threading its way through the trees with quiet resolve. However, it soon gains momentum, cascading over rocky ledges and morphing into thunderous waterfalls that carve their way through the landscape with unyielding vigour.
“Autumn is my favourite time to visit this serene forest, when the foliage changes colour and the air becomes crisper,” says writer Portia Jones.
There’s an abundance of trails to amble along here, all clearly marked from beginning to end. Starting at the Rhyd-y-benwch car park, the paths guide you through towering trees, past gushing waterfalls, and even to the hidden source of the River Severn.
She adds: “My favourite trail is the 13 km-long Source of the Severn Trail, which leads to the source of the River Severn through a varied landscape.”
It’s quite astounding to consider that the mighty River Severn, stretching over 220 miles, originates here in Hafren Forest. The river’s modest beginnings on the slopes of Pumlumon rapidly gather pace as the water etches its path through the forest, creating a series of vibrant cascades and waterfalls.
As you traverse the trails, the river’s sound evolves, becoming more powerful and persistent. Each stride brings you nearer to the water’s rhythm, escalating like an overture before unveiling its concealed source beyond the forest’s boundary.
Writer Portia Jones loves to visit it during the winter months (Image: Portia Jones )
Reaching the source is no ordinary stroll. A steep ascent leads you onto the moorland, where a simple, carved wooden post signifies the start of the UK’s longest river.
Hafren Forest also serves as the launch point for two epic long-distance walks. The Wye Valley Walk traces the River Wye for 136 miles, whilst the Severn Way follows the Severn’s route to Bristol. For a shorter and more manageable walk, the 2.3 km Severn-Break-its-Neck Trail provides a picturesque romp through woodland.
This trail lives up to its dramatic name. Starting at the car park, you’ll follow a gently meandering path along the river until it expands into a meadow, where a boardwalk brings you closer to the sound of rushing water.
This is the unsung Hafren Forest in Mid Wales, where you’ll find cascading waters, marked trails and the source of a mighty river(Image: Portia Jones )
After a brief climb, the Severn-Break-Its-Neck waterfall comes into sight. Cycling enthusiasts can take advantage of the Sustrans National Cycle Network, a scenic route that meanders through the forest and beyond, offering a quicker way to soak up the region’s stunning landscapes.
Consider booking a stay at Cedar Cottage in Llanidloes for a snug autumn getaway. This charming semi-detached barn conversion, once an old grinding mill, is perfectly suited for a small family or a group of mates.
The cottage boasts a host of amenities including double and twin rooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a cosy sitting room with an electric stove, and a shared garden at the back complete with patio furniture. You can secure your booking here.
This beautiful town in north Wales is makes for the perfect escape from the city, with a distinctly alpine feel, charming stone buildings and an impressive waterfall
Autumn is the best time to visit this charming Welsh destination(Image: Joe Daniel Price)
Those looking for the perfect autumn escape close to home should set their sights on North Wales. In fall, fresh air and falling leaves transform Wales’s stunning countryside into a brilliant tapestry of reds, oranges, and golds.
Nestled amongst rugged peaks, tranquil waters, and verdant forests, Betws-y-Coed makes a perfect destination for an autumn getaway.
Regarded as the entrance to Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), its name translates to “prayerhouse-in-the-woods” and is believed to derive from the 14th-century St Michael’s Church, where ancient yew trees have flourished for over 500 years.
The surrounding area is full of woodland paths to explore(Image: North Wales Live/David Powell)
The introduction of transport links and rail connections proved transformative for Betws, attracting artists, poets, and authors to the region, captivated by the invigorating atmosphere and woodland panoramas. It wasn’t long before Betws-y-Coed established itself as Britain’s inaugural artists’ settlement, where imagination flourished.
During the Victorian era, this quaint village transformed into a posh tourist hotspot for affluent visitors seeking wellness and relaxation, reports Wales Online. Hotels began to pop up, offering horse-drawn tours to showcase the stunning beauty of Betws.
Fast forward to the 1930s, steam trains started transporting factory workers from Lancashire to Betws-y-Coed for a much-needed break from urban life. The Trefriw Spa became a massive attraction, drawing in crowds of visitors.
Today, Betws is at the epicentre of all the action in Eryri, with a plethora of nearby activities such as waterfall walks, canyoning, hiking, and ziplining.
Gwydir Forest Park practically envelops Betws-y-Coed, offering a magical blend of tranquil mountain lakes, woodland paths and frothing waterfalls cascading through the untamed Welsh landscape.
The falls are approximately 42 m (138 ft) in height and are the highest continuous waterfall in Wales. (Image: Portia Jones)
Numerous trails are located in this area where you can enjoy the dazzling foliage as you trek along. Embark on the two-mile-long Swallow Falls walk to witness the tumbling falls. This often muddy trail meanders through woodland to a viewpoint over the waterfall – you get a fantastic view from this side of the river, so don’t forget your camera.
Canyoning and gorge walking are also a must for adventure seekers. With Seren Ventures, you can scramble through river-filled canyons, abseil down cliffs, and even zipline across rivers.
Betws-y-Coed isn’t just about outdoor pursuits; it’s also home to charming Victorian architecture and Swallow Falls at Ty’n Llwyn – often dubbed North Wales’ most picturesque spot, with a backdrop that could pass for a film set.
Here, the River Conwy meets three tributaries – the Llugwy, Lledr, and Machno – flowing in from the west, creating a dramatic mix of waterfalls, rapids, and deep, mysterious pools. The natural beauty is absolutely spellbinding.
Swallow Falls (Rhaeadr Ewynnol) are just a 15-minute drive from Betws, and you can park at the Ty’n Llwyn car park in Gwydir Forest Park, which is a starting point for a walking trail to the falls.
You can admire the falls from timber boardwalks and a footbridge, with platform access in a gently steep gorge. There’s no need for an extensive hike; simply amble to the platforms and start capturing some stunning fall photos.
The falls are made up of multiple cascades, adding up to approximately 42 m (138 ft) in height, tumbling over a stepped rocky platform and are the highest continuous waterfall in Wales. It’s one of the most accessible and beautiful falls in Wales and is definitely worth a visit this autumn.
Betws-y-Coed in north Wales is a beautiful town surrounded by craggy mountains, peaceful lakes, and lush woodlands – making it an ideal spot for an autumn break
This pretty town is the perfect place for an autumn getaway(Image: Joe Daniel Price)
As autumn slowly makes its arrival, those planning to have a seasonal getaway may want to look towards Wales. With autumn’s fresh air, the crackling leaves beneath your feet, Wales’s stunning landscapes transform into a brilliant tapestry of reds, oranges, and golds.
The country is home to countless autumnal destinations where you can marvel at spectacular foliage, enjoy steaming hot chocolates in welcoming cafés, and explore independent shops for seasonal delights. One picturesque town is Betws-y-Coed, with its distinctive alpine atmosphere and delightful stone structures and bridges.
Regarded as the entrance to Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), its name translates to “prayerhouse-in-the-woods” and is believed to derive from the 14th-century St. Michael’s Church, where ancient yew trees have flourished for over 500 years.
For generations, St. Michael’s Church served as Betws-y-Coed’s vital centre until the settlement expanded, and, in 1873, St. Mary’s Church arrived with its impressive scale to assume control. Both places of worship and the railway terminus, constructed in 1869, were crafted by Owen Gethin Jones – quite the regional icon.
Betws-y-Coed is a small village in the heart of the Eryri national park(Image: Getty Images)
The introduction of transport links and rail connections proved transformative for Betws, drawing artists, poets, and authors to the region, captivated by the invigorating atmosphere and woodland panoramas. It wasn’t long before Betws-y-Coed established itself as Britain’s inaugural artists’ settlement, where artistic expression flourished.
Hotels began to pop up, offering horse-drawn tours to showcase Betws’ stunning beauty. Fast forward to the 1930s, steam trains started transporting factory workers from Lancashire to Betws-y-Coed for a much-needed break from urban life.
The Trefriw Spa became a massive attraction, drawing in crowds of visitors. Paddle steamers even moored at Trefriw Quay, adding to the village’s allure, until the outbreak of World War II sadly brought everything to a standstill in 1939.
Today, Betws is at the centre of all the action in Eryri, with a plethora of nearby activities including waterfall walks, canyoning, hiking, and ziplining.
Gwydir Forest Park practically envelops Betws-y-Coed, offering a magical blend of tranquil mountain lakes, woodland paths and frothing waterfalls cascading through the wild Welsh landscape.
Afon Llugwy in Betws y Coed(Image: North Wales Live/David Powell)
Several trails are located in this area, so download the handy AllTrails app to find your preferred route and enjoy the dazzling foliage as you trek along.
Embark on the two-mile-long Swallow Falls walk to see the cascading falls. This often muddy trail meanders through woodland to a viewpoint over the waterfall – you get a fantastic view from this side of the river, so don’t forget your camera.
Fancy a thrilling woodland adventure? You can jump on the UK’s only alpine coaster and whizz through the trees at 25mph right here. The rugged glacial valleys and craggy canyons around Betws-y-Coed are perfect for bracing water adventures.
For those seeking an adrenaline kick, canyoning and gorge walking are a must. With Seren Ventures, you can scramble through river-filled canyons, abseil down cliffs, and even zipline across rivers.
Betws-y-Coed isn’t just about outdoor pursuits; it’s also home to charming Victorian architecture and Swallow Falls at Ty’n Llwyn – often dubbed North Wales’ most picturesque spot, with a backdrop that could easily double as a film set.
If you don’t fancy an epic hike to a waterfall spot, there is a beautiful waterfall near Betws-y-Coed that doesn’t require a three-hour trek to reach it(Image: Portia Jones)
But it’s not just the scenery that’s captivating; the falls are steeped in local folklore, adding an extra layer of charm to this already enchanting place.
Here, the River Conwy meets three tributaries – the Llugwy, Lledr, and Machno – flowing in from the west, creating a dramatic mix of waterfalls, rapids, and deep, mysterious pools. The natural beauty is absolutely spellbinding.
Rhaeadr Ewynnol (Swallow Falls) are just a 15-minute drive from Betws, and you can park at the Ty’n Llwyn car park in Gwydir Forest Park, which is a starting point for a walking trail to the falls.
Alternatively, parking is available in the nearby lay-by on the A5. You can also take the regular Snowdon Sherpa S1 (Betws-y-Coed to Caernarfon) and T10 (Betws-y-Coed to Bangor) bus services.
Once you get there, you’ll encounter a coin or card-operated turnstile to gain access to the viewing area for the falls. For just £2 per person, you can enter the viewing areas, which are only a short stroll from the turnstiles.
The sound of the falls will likely reach your ears before the sight does, as the thunderous noise of the white water cascading over the rocks pierces the tranquil woodland.
It’s super dreamy in autumn(Image: North Wales Live/David Powell)
You can admire the falls from timber boardwalks and a footbridge, with platform access in a gently steep gorge. There’s no need for an extensive hike; simply amble to the platforms and start capturing some stunning fall photos.
The falls are made up of multiple cascades, adding up to approximately 42 m (138 ft) in height, tumbling over a stepped rocky platform and hold the title of the highest continuous waterfall in Wales.
It’s one of the most accessible and picturesque falls in Wales and is definitely worth a visit this autumn.
Worked up a hunger after all that waterfall gazing? Make your way to the newly revamped Swallow Falls Hotel just across the road. This delightful old inn has been a welcoming spot for travellers and locals for over 150 years, and now, following a swanky multi-million-pound refurbishment, it’s looking better than ever.
Expect cosy pub vibes, comfortable rooms, and relaxed food and drink served all day, every day. It’s the ideal place to recharge with a pint and a pub lunch.
Back in the village, there are plenty of dining and drinking choices. For authentic excellent pizza, Hangin’ Pizzeria is a brilliant choice for traditional Italian pizzas topped with inventive ingredients.
It’s one of the most accessible and beautiful falls in Wales and is well worth a visit this autumn(Image: Portia Jones)
Dog-friendly Y Stablau is a delightful venue for local ales, hearty portions crafted with Welsh ingredients, and a selection of bespoke cocktails. It’s ideal for relaxing after a big day of hiking or canyoning.
Upmarket B&B Olif boasts an onsite tapas bar that combines Spanish tapas and traditional Welsh fare to deliver a cracking menu of small plates packed with locally sourced Welsh produce.
The beloved Alpine Coffee Shop is a favourite destination for coffee and homemade cakes in a charming atmosphere. Bonus points: they’ve even got a “sausages for dogs,” loyalty card so your pooch can enjoy a cheeky treat.
If you fancy a brief drive (roughly 20 minutes from Betws-y-Coed), The Old Stag in Llangernyw is essential. This traditional country pub is a properly welcoming venue and nestles beneath a 4,500 year old yew tree.
Constructed in 1640 as a farm, it’s now packed with quirky treasures from centuries past. There’s nothing quite like settling into one of its comfortable seats beside a crackling fire with a delicious Welsh ale.
There’s simply too much to experience in beautiful Betws-y-Coed to squeeze into just one day, so why not stay around for a while?
Revamped Swallow Falls Inn at Betws-y-Coed (Image: Swallow Falls Inn)
After all, you’ll need time to discover everything this stunning village provides, and trust me, it’s worth it. For a charming, rustic stay, consider the Tŷ Gwyn Hotel, a centuries-old coaching inn complete with beamed ceilings and stunning bedrooms.
If you’re after a more tranquil setting, Pengwern Country House is just a mile out of town. Constructed from beautiful Welsh stone and slate, it offers breathtaking views over the lush Lledr Valley.
For those who prefer their accommodation with a bit more excitement, Pont-y-Pair Inn is the place to be. This family-run, traditional inn boasts 10 luxury en-suite bedrooms and is surrounded by endless hiking and biking trails.
The inn also hosts a variety of entertaining events, from karaoke to live music, perfect for a lively evening after a day filled with autumn adventures.
The falls guy – Harry Leach is moved by a humbling adventure in an unforgettable African land when he experiences the intoxicating, chaotic charm of Ghana
Harry was blown away by his adventure in Ghana
Thousands of fruit bats whirled in a tornado, spiralling 300ft above as Ghana’s tallest waterfall crashed in a thunderous beat beside me – its mist cooling the heat on my skin.
We had hiked through a sweaty tropical forest to get here – ducking under vines, stepping over startled reptiles, brushing off bold insects, crossing nine clanging bridges. Each footstep sank into rich, red earth as the path narrowed underfoot and the sound of falling water grew louder.
Then, suddenly, the trees parted and there it was – Ghana’s famous Wli Waterfalls, the tallest in West Africa. Wild and beautiful. The bats squeaked as the 262ft-high fall poured down a jagged cliff into a pool over which butterflies scattered, their wings glowing in flecks of sunlight.
The noise was deafening, and yet the moment seemed utterly still.
If this were Europe, a sea of phones would block the view. But here, deep in Ghana’s Volta Region, it was just us and nature – raw and unspoilt. The fall’s soft waves didn’t just cool my body, they stripped back life’s pressures. This wasn’t just a trip; it was unfiltered adventure.
I was travelling to West Africa with Intrepid Travel, a firm that threads you into the fabric of Ghana as well as taking you way off the beaten track. That was evident that very morning when we broke bread with a family living in Liati Wote – a beautiful, remote village hugging the Ghana-Togo border. Our hosts welcomed us with open arms in the way I quickly learned all Ghanaians do: with a warmth and effortless generosity that is rare to find wherever you go in the world.
As goats wandered past, and the sun beat down, we chatted about sport, family, our passions, as mighty Mount Afadjato leaned over us. “Everything is focused on each other,” said 16-year-old Elizabeth, while her sister Precious served omelettes fresh from the pan.
She spoke of her yearning to explore Accra, Ghana’s capital, but her love for her village was deep, palpable. I understood why. In this community of just 600, everyone plays a part. Later we met Charles, tending his farm. Together we planted corn and watched him work his charcoal ovens – delicate, smoky earth mounds that collapse if oxygen sneaks in.
Elsewhere, Emmanuel, the village’s chief farmer and palm wine-maker since 1991, tapped sap from a fallen palm tree. I drank it sharp and fresh, then again later when it was fermented, sweet and dizzying. That night, we rejoined our hosts to dine in their home. We shared plates of jollof (rice, vegetables and/or meat), akple (fermented dough balls), watermelon, and grilled drumsticks.
Unfermented palm wine can be drank straight from the tree
It was the kind of hospitality that makes you feel like you have slipped into someone else’s life… just for a moment.
As we laughed and sang together, including a slightly off-key rendition of Wonderwall, conversation paused when the beat of drums began to creep through an open window.
We broke away from the table, unable to ignore it any longer. Outside, a group of 30 was rehearsing an Ewe drumming performance. The ensemble had packed up to leave for a funeral, but then graciously unpacked to play once more, just for us.
We jived under stars to their captivating tempo because, in Ghana, when the beat calls, you don’t just listen – you follow it. The next morning, I danced again, this time with a machete in my hand at the village of Tafi Atome. I was taught the “hunter’s dance” by the Akpi performers, as they pounded drums behind a statue with a lit cigarette hanging from its stone lips.
“They’re showing their strength in the forest with this performance,” said Isaac, our endlessly insightful guide and native Ghanaian who knows his country inside out. Behind us, monkeys stirred. “They live together with the people,” he explained.
Intrepid driver Eric took the group through Volta village
After spicy snails and grilled fish at Afrikiko River Front Resort, we cruised down the shimmering Volta River – part of Lake Volta, the largest artificial reservoir in the world at 3,283 square miles – completely relaxed. Then we moved on to the lively town of Elmina, where we checked into charming hilltop cabins at Golden Hill Parker Hotel, above Ghana’s largest fish market.
After sunrise, we ventured through its heart. Women balancing bowls of fish on their heads encouraged us to dance with them, smiling ear-to-ear, as traders in every direction shouted prices over crates of squid and the bleeding sharks on the wet concrete.
It was loud, chaotic, intoxicating: Ghana at its most tactile and authentic. But nothing felt more real than our visit to Cape Coast Castle. Inside the silent dungeons, history closed in from every side. No light or airflow. Just thick stone walls and the memory of thousands of slaves held captive before being trafficked as human cargo.
Our guide Kojo spoke with the gravity of someone who had told this story too many times, yet aware it must never stop being told. “It cannot be repeated,” he said simply, standing by the plaque that now marks the “Door of No Return” –once the last threshold before Africans were forced onto ships in the dark days of the transatlantic slave trade.
My final days in Ghana unfolded in the busy and electric capital Accra. One minute you’re weaving through the packed Osu night market, eating smoked fish and waakye (rice and beans), next you’re standing in a workshop staring at a coffin shaped like a Nokia mobile phone. That was Eric’s creation – a master craftsman of fantasy coffins. From sneakers to Club beer bottles, he carves caskets that reflect lives once lived.
In Ghana, death isn’t feared, it is a “celebration”, said Eric. Funerals honour those lost with colour, music and flair. What struck me most about this country wasn’t any one place. It wasn’t even the food – although I’d fly back in a heartbeat for palm nut soup or “red red”.
It was the way people let us in; their smiles; how they embraced us into their world and homes. It was truly humbling.
On my final day, I stood in the impoverished Jamestown, watching children play basketball near a beautiful lighthouse. A battered speaker played Afrobeats as we moved through tiny streets, when a barefoot girl spun and waved with a grin so infectious, it made me smile too.
This is why you travel. Not for the Instagram pictures, but for the people who turn the unfamiliar into something unforgettable. “Kwame is your Ghanaian name,” Isaac said after finding out I was born on a Saturday. “Take this with you.”
The picturesque river has been described as the ‘most beautiful wild swimming spot’
The ‘fairytale’ views impress walkers and swimmers(Image: Getty)
The Peak District is a wild swimmer’s paradise, famous for its stunning walks and waterfalls. One unmissable spot is Three Shires Head. As the meeting point of Cheshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire on the River Dane, it makes a perfect day trip from cities such as Manchester and Sheffield.
Or, if you’re lucky enough to live even closer, it’s a wonderful afternoon out. Visitors say that it “feels like a hidden world” with “views that make you stop in your tracks.”
The picturesque setting makes the perfect backdrop for a scenic walk, picnic, or swim – if you can brave the cold water. I visited for the first time recently, keen for a cooling dip on a warm July day, and it’s already one of the best things I’ve done all summer.
After parking in a nearby lay-by, it took us approximately 30 minutes to walk the rocky path that descends to the river. It was well worth the effort when we reached the pools and the small waterfalls found near the packhorse bridge.
Understandably, it was very busy when we arrived around midday on a Saturday, with groups playing music and families enjoying ball games. So if you’re looking for a tranquil swimming spot, you’ll likely need to wait until the end of the summer season. Alternatively, you could plan an early morning visit to secure a quiet spot around one of the smaller pools, perfect for a dip or a chilled morning spent taking in the fairytale scenery.
Three Shires Head is where the counties of Staffordshire, Cheshire and Derbyshire meet(Image: Getty)
Everyone in my group agreed we’d love to go back another time, so it’s somewhere I’d definitely recommend if you’re planning a wild swim and you’re comfortable with the sloped, rocky walk. Just remember to take care and pack any essentials you’ll need, such as water bottles.
Praising the spot on TripAdvisor, one visitor wrote: “An amazingly beautiful place with walks all around. Great for open air bathing. Take care though, the water is cold so know your stuff.”
Sharing advice, someone else said: “Lots of reviews have said it is a bit of a walk to get here, but I found a website that suggested a short route, which took about 15/20 minutes. There was plenty of parking in the lay-by.
“Slight climb down a ladder, but OK if you have good mobility. The walk is through fields with sheep so if you have a dog, please keep them on lead (like we did). We found a little spot where nobody else was, but we were there early, and people started to arrive by midday.
“It was a really hot day, but the water was still quite chilly. There are some lovely little waterfalls and the water is clean. There’s no shops nearby so make sure you take everything you need for the time you plan to spend there- drinks, food, suncream etc.”
Meanwhile, an impressed visitor said: “Three Shires Head feels like a hidden world, waterfalls, old packhorse bridges, and proper peace and quiet. It’s a stunning spot for a ramble, with views that make you stop in your tracks. A proper breath of fresh air.”
The closest postcode for Three Shires Head is SK11 0BQ, and there is free parking in the lay-by on the A54. The closest train station, Macclesfield Station, is 25 minutes away. However, you will need a car to drive from the station.
Wild swimming can be dangerous. Always be aware of the risks and follow safety recommendations.
The campsite is nestled among the Rhinog mountains and is just two miles from the best beach in Wales
Lake at Capel Curig, Snowdonia(Image: joe daniel price via Getty Images)
A picturesque Gwynedd campsite, boasting an “out of this world” location, has been crowned as one of Britain’s finest. Situated beside a river and near a waterfall, the woodland retreat in Eryri National Park is described by visitors as possessing a “fairytale ” charm.
Nantcol Waterfalls has earned its place on a list of 150 exceptional sites curated by Campsites.co.uk, which boasts over 3,200 locations. A total of 19 other North Wales campsites also made the cut, showcasing the region’s top-notch staycation offerings.
Set amidst the breathtaking Rhinog mountains, Nantcol Waterfalls campsite is merely two miles from Shell Island, with its golden beaches near Llanbedr recently hailed as the best in Wales by the annual Times and Sunday Times Best UK Beaches guide.
The site is traversed by Afon Nantcol – perfect for paddling, swimming or fishing. Thewaterfall is just 100 metres away.
Rhinog National Nature Reserve, Gwynedd(Image: Charles Hawes via Getty Images)
Beyond tent pitches, the campsite offers glamping pods complete with TV, underfloor heating, WiFi, and firepits available for hire, reports North Wales Live.
Last year, the campsite clinched the title of the UK’s number one, and guests wholeheartedly concur, awarding it a 4.89-star rating.
One visitor remarked: “Only noise you can hear are the birds, river and odd sheep. It really is a peace of paradise, we didn’t want to come home.”
Another enthused: “We’ve officially found our happy place. The site is so well maintained, sustainable, and focused on preserving the beauty of nature.”
If you’re after alpine adventures then you won’t be disappointed in one of Europe’s breathtaking regions with idyllic chalets and amazing views
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Striking the right balance between relaxation and exploration can prove a challenge on any trip. The temptation when on the clock in a new place is to rush around ticking off sights, often resulting in blurred memories and fatigue.
My visit to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland taught me a lesson in how to really take in my surroundings and resist the urge to press on with a hurried stride. Take time to smell the roses, or in my case, the cheeses.
This awakening experience began in the picturesque village of Adelboden, an idyllic chalet village 4,430ft above sea level, with blooming alpine meadows and crystal-clear lakes.
Home to only 3,500 inhabitants, versatile Adelboden comes alive during winter with tourists swooping in for its mountain sports on its dream pistes and World Cup race in January.
It actually became the destination for the first winter sports package holiday, organised by tourism pioneer Sir Henry Lunn in 1902.
It’s full of incredible views(Image: Getty Images)
In the warmer months, it’s ideal for those wanting to gaze at the scenery at their own pace while traversing its walking trails, mountain bike routes, cable cars, or swimming in the lakes.
The village’s standout hotel was acquired by Welsh brothers Craig and Grant Maunder in 2009 and renamed The Cambrian – a subtle nod to their home country (Cambria translates as Wales in Latin). This stunning, four-star superior hotel, rebuilt in the Belle Epoque style in the 20th century, is the perfect place to unwind, offering a swanky spa with pool, Finnish sauna, steam bath and outdoor infinity pool, which comes with breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps.
At the hotel’s Bryn Williams restaurant, named after the chef who hails from North Wales, diners can enjoy dishes created with Swiss and Welsh influences.
From here, take a short bus journey to nearby mountain village Elsigen where you can ride the gondola to reach an alpine cheese farm hidden away in the peaks.
Welcomed into the home of the Germann’s, father-and-on duo Adolf and Peter offered expert insight into their longstanding family tradition of cheesemaking.
After explaining the process of producing cheeses including Alpkase, Mutschli, Raclette and Ziger, which are heated at temperatures ranging from 36-90C, I was able to sit down and sample the freshly made blocks. They were full of flavour, thanks to added extras such as garlic and chilli.
It is not only food production keeping this area ticking nicely over, however, with the natural wonders of the lakes and mountains serving as a major pull.
Don’t miss out on the cheese(Image: Naturpark Beverin)
With the sun beating down, I grabbed the chance to take a dip in the crystal-clear water of the Brandsee Lake and could not resist the inflatable slide invitingly positioned only several strokes away.
It’s a short drive to Engstilgenalp where you can jump on a cable car and head above the second tallest waterfall in Switzerland, 1,969ft Engstilgenalp Falls.
A trip to the neighbouring town of Gstaad was next on the agenda. Famed for its old-world elegance, which has attracted the likes of Princess Diana and Madonna to the region, I enjoyed a taste of the finer things, checking in at the new Mansard Boutique Hotel.
Located centrally, The Mansard boasts the only rooftop bar in Gstaad and was a hit among locals, who were drinking in the views with a few glasses of wine.
Equally as impressive was the food in the ground floor restaurant. I opted for the starter special of mushroom pasta, followed by a main of sole with parsley butter, spinach and mashed potatoes. Finishing on a sweet note, a glass of vanilla ice cream with strawberries and Maraschino liqueur rounded off a memorable meal.
The following morning in Gstaad, I got to experience a great annual celebration, which is loved by tourists and locals. Visitors began to pour into the town during the early hours of the morning, creating an instant buzz.
This was the start of the Zuglete, the procession of cattle from the mountains to the heart of the town. A tradition kept for centuries to signify the return of the herds and herdsmen to the valley, thousands of people line the streets of Gstaad for a glimpse of cows, dressed in colourful floral headdresses, and goats that continually serve the area.
Oeschinensee lake is breathtaking(Image: Getty Images)
Such a day presents a lucrative opportunity for local businesses. One woman I met had spent 30 years on the Landfrauen Saanenland selling items ranging from cheese to marmalade. “I will not get rich with what I’m doing,” she insisted. “I do this out of passion, for the community, because being together is not about having an income, it’s out of love.”
Aside from the heightened sense of drama created by the Zuglete, Gstaad’s relaxation-related motto of “Comeup, slow down” can’t be argued with.
But those seeking a total escape should head to the tiny village of Ablandschen – situated on the edge of the Bernese Oberland and the Freiburg Alps, 4,265ft above sea level. Known locally as Detox Valley and home to only 32 inhabitants, here you can pay a visit to the smallest church in Switzerland and dine at the inviting Berghotel zur Sau.
“Welcome to the end of the world” is the message from owners of the cosy establishment to prospective guests, who can try a range of Swiss dishes.
Mushrooms and potatoes that accompanied my main dish of pork were grown just around the corner while the starter salad was made up of handpicked ingredients.
A bottle of the sparkling Blanc de Noirs – a Swiss spin on Champagne due to its mirrored production process – was the perfect accompaniment.
My trip ended by catching the state-of-the-art GoldenPass Express train from Gstaad to Montreux – an 80-minute journey offering panoramic views of the Swiss Alps and valleys plus Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).
This route is included in the Swiss Travel Pass (see information box above right) and seated in prestige class – elevated in terms of height in the carriage and service – I tried out my heated leather seat, capable of rotating 180 degrees, before enjoying a cheese board and coffee.
Gazing out the window as I glided through this breathtaking scenery, I was offered one final reminder of how avoiding well-trodden paths, going out of the main season and taking in the sights at your own pace makes travel so much more satisfying.
Book the holiday
Neilson offers seven nights on club board at the Messini Beach Club near Kalamata, Peloponnese, Greece, from £1,467pp based on a family of four sharing and departing from Stansted on August 24. Includes transfers, kids’ clubs, activities, and expert tuition. Birmingham and Manchester flights also available. neilson.co.uk
Hafren Forest is a haven of peace and beauty, with its cascading waterfalls, wildlife, and trails that take you through ancient woodland and to the source of the River Severn
Hafren Forest is one of Wales’ hidden gems(Image: Portia Jones )
Stepping onto the woodland trail, you’ll immediately be struck by the crisp air, tinged with the earthy aroma of damp pine and moss – a sensory reminder that this is nature in its rawest form. This is the lesser-known Hafren Forest in Mid Wales, home to cascading waters, trails and a quaint café just a short drive away.
Hafren is a meticulously managed woodland with an intriguing history and an abundance of trails to discover. Originally planted by the Forestry Commission in the 1930s for timber production, it now offers much more than just rows of trees.
Now under the stewardship of Natural Resources Wales, the forest strikes a balance between commercial forestry, conservation, and public enjoyment, making it a crucial habitat for wildlife and a sanctuary for outdoor enthusiasts.
The name ‘Hafren’ derives from the Welsh term for the River Severn (Afon Hafren), which embarks on its impressive journey to the sea right here. Over the years, Hafren Forest has transformed into a popular and accessible walking destination, with its blend of natural beauty, heritage features and well-maintained trails drawing visitors all year round
The trails here are clearly marked and welcoming, meandering through groves of pines and firs. Their natural symmetry forms archways overhead, framing the path ahead.
You’ll see rushing waterfalls here (Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
When sunlight pierces the clouded sky, it floods in golden beams, lighting up leaves and bark, reports Wales Online. The River Severn, or Afon Hafren as it’s locally known, takes the spotlight here. It originates from the slopes of Pumlumon, with its concealed source nestled just beyond the forest.
Initially, it’s merely a tranquil stream meandering through the trees with quiet resolve. However, it soon gains momentum, cascading over rocky ledges and morphing into thunderous waterfalls that carve their way through the landscape with unyielding vigour.
Forest trails
There’s an abundance of trails to explore here, all clearly marked from beginning to end. Starting at the Rhyd-y-benwch car park, the paths guide you through towering trees, alongside rushing waterfalls, and even to the hidden source of the River Severn.
Cascades Walk (0.9 km, 30 minutes, Accessible)
The Cascades Walk is a gentle amble suitable for all visitors. It commences with a sloping path from the car park and leads to a scenic boardwalk that skirts the riverbank. Along the route, water cascades over rocks, providing a calming backdrop to your woodland walk.
At the boardwalk’s end, a raised viewing platform offers a splendid spot to pause and soak in the surroundings before looping back along a broad, well-maintained path through the forest.
Severn-Break-its-Neck Trail (2.3 km, 1 hour, Moderate)
The Severn-Break-Its-Neck trail is as thrilling as its name implies. Starting from the car park, you’ll meander along a gentle path by the river until it opens up into a meadow.
Here, a boardwalk brings you closer to the sound of gushing water. After a short climb, the Severn-Break-Its-Neck waterfall comes into sight.
At this point, the River Severn roars down a rocky ravine, its raw power tangible as you cross the footbridge above.
The return journey follows a forest road, offering panoramic views through the trees and a chance to recover after the steeper sections.
Blaen Hafren Falls Trail (6 km, 1.5 hours, Moderate)
For a more extended hike, the Blaen Hafren Falls Trail provides a longer, more immersive stroll through the forest canopy. The route follows a well-maintained gravel path alongside the River Severn, leading you through peaceful woodland.
As the trail climbs, glimpses of the surrounding forest appear before unveiling the cascading Blaen Hafren Falls hidden amongst the trees.
Benches scattered along the way offer spots to rest and soak in the scenery. The trail loops back via a forest road, making it a rewarding choice if you’re up for a hiking challenge.
Source of the Severn Trail (13 km, 5 hours, Strenuous)
This is my preferred route in the Hafren Forest as it leads to the source of the River Severn. It’s astounding to think that the mighty River Severn, which spans over 200 miles, begins its journey here in Hafren Forest.
Its humble beginnings on the slopes of Pumlumon quickly gather pace as the water carves its path through the forest, forming a series of lively cascades and waterfalls.
As you traverse the trails, the river’s sound alters, becoming more potent and persistent. Each stride brings you nearer to the water’s rhythm, building like an overture before unveiling its concealed source beyond the edge of the forest.
Reaching the source is no ordinary stroll. A steep ascent takes you onto the moorland, where a simple, carved wooden post marks the precise spot.
Cobblers Tea Room is worth visiting (Image: Portia Jones )
Beyond Hafren – long-distance adventures
Hafren Forest also serves as the starting point for two epic long-distance walks. The Wye Valley Walk traces the River Wye for 136 miles, while the Severn Way follows the Severn’s journey to Bristol.
For a shorter challenge, the Sarn Sabrina circular walk offers 25 miles of myths and landscapes named after a Celtic river goddess. Cyclists can also explore the area via the Sustrans National Cycle Network, which meanders through the forest and beyond. It’s a fantastic way to experience the region’s beauty at a faster pace.
Afternoon tea at Cobblers Tea Room
If all that walking has left you famished, jump in the car and head to the charming market town of Llaindloes.
Here, you will discover the vintage Cobblers Tea Room on the High Street, a cosy spot for coffee and cakes. Step inside, and you’re greeted with the comforting aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods still warm from the oven.
This quaint, traditional tea room has been a hit with locals since it changed hands in December 2018. Their reasonably priced menu boasts homemade treats. Cakes are baked on the premises, and depending on the season, you can enjoy mince pies in winter or gelato in summer.
Sandwiches are freshly prepared to order, and the daily homemade soup is just the ticket for warming up after a long forest walk.
This is my favourite route in the Hafren Forest as it leads to the source of the River Severn.(Image: Portia Jones )
I love the forest trails(Image: Portia Jones )
You’ll see rushing waterfalls here(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
It’s a carefully managed woodland(Image: Portia Jones )
There are plenty of trails to discover here(Image: Portia Jones )
Cobblers Tea Room is worth visiting(Image: Portia Jones )
Whenever I’m feeling stressed out, heartbroken or scared over the state of our nation, the one place where I can find solace, however fleeting, is in the outdoors.
I’ve taken several mental vacations this past week back to the most beautiful hike I’ve ever traversed in California. I can close my eyes and feel the sun on my skin as I sit next to a massive waterfall, its roar filling my ears as my face turns misty from its blast. I’d like to take you there with me now and explain how, when and why you must go too.
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In mid-May, I traveled three hours north of Sacramento to the Trinity Alps Wilderness so I could write a guide on how to explore the region. You’ll find everything you need to start planning your trip.
The Trinity Alps are about 540,000 acres, which is about 100,000 acres larger than the San Gabriel Mountains National Monument, and they feature massive waterfalls, crystal-clear rivers and creeks, and dozens of turquoise alpine lakes.
The Canyon Creek trail is the most popular in the Trinities, and for good reason, as it has each of those things.
Backpackers often take the path 8.5 miles to the Boulder Creek lakes or nine miles to the Canyon Creek Lakes. (Note: If you’d like to backpack the trail, please visit the Weaverville Ranger Station beforehand to gain clarity on where you should camp, as there are certain areas that have been damaged by overuse and should be avoided.)
The blue-green water of Canyon Creek.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
I took a 16-mile, round-trip day hike, ending my journey at the upper falls, but you certainly don’t have to go that far to see tremendous beauty here, as seemingly every mile traveled offers a new delight.
To reach the trailhead, you’ll take California 299 to Canyon Creek Road, a narrow two-lane thoroughfare that includes two one-lane bridges. You’ll pass through a rural community where signs request you to kindly watch your speed. It’s a good idea regardless of where you’re driving in the Trinity Alps, as deer are easy to spot on the highway (including eating in the middle of the road, which I couldn’t figure out).
You’ll need to arrive early if hiking the Canyon Creek trail on a weekend, as the parking lot can fill up. I went pre-season and had one of three vehicles in the large lot.
The first mile of the Canyon Creek trail is a gentle narrow dirt path.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
From the trailhead, you’ll hike past an information board — during my visit, the forest service staff was warning of two food-motivated bears — and then past a large wooden Trinity Alps sign, a good selfie spot.
From here, you’ll start down a narrow mostly flat dirt path shaded by massive conifers and bigleaf maples. The path runs parallel to its namesake channel and includes several water crossings of varying sizes, so plan accordingly (i.e. pack extra socks!).
I visited before the Trinity Alps season starts, as it typically runs from June to October, but still noticed several flowering plants in this first mile of my hike, including western starflower, baldhip rose, longtube iris and some type of inside-out flower.
Cliff maids (lewisia cotyledon), spreading phlox and a paintbrush flower grow along the Canyon Creek trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
About a mile in, you’ll come to your first major water crossing. On my way back, I did a great job letting the river’s current ram my toes into a boulder, so please take good care as you cross. This is a great turn-around spot if you’re hiking with little kids, as it has a few spots where you can splash around without getting pummeled by the river, along with rocks covered in bright green moss.
Massive conifers grow throughout the Canyon Creek area.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
After the crossing, the trail started to remind me a bit of the Switzer Falls hike or the Valley Forge area of the Gabrielino trail, but with way more water and much taller trees. I spotted several deer tracks, and maybe smelled bear urine. I loved seeing the large white blooms of the dogwood trees.
The white bloom of a dogwood tree.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
About three miles in, I reached a fork in the trail where I headed down to the Sinks for a short side trip. This area has nice, clear pools where you can take a dip, relax and explore.
It is another great turn-around spot, as you could easily spend the day lounging in the river, napping in a hammock and enjoying the sound of native birds and the river around you. I was almost pulled by the river siren’s call to just stay there. But I really wanted to see all three waterfalls!
The Sinks is an area just off the Canyon Creek trail that offers calmer areas to swim and spend the day.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Shortly after leaving the Sinks, I walked over a landslide. Alone, happily bored and a big Fleetwood Mac fan, I did sing as I crossed over it (but I did not see my reflection in the snow-covered hills). I later spoke to a forest service worker who said these obstacles were being cleared. So fingers crossed the landslide won’t be there when you arrive.
Dendroalsia moss growing on a tree near the Canyon Creek trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
This segment of the trail felt like it was teeming with life. Several rocks I passed had dens beneath them for snakes, frogs and other creatures. The trees had holes where woodpeckers had or will store food. Also, several conifers had bark covered in furry moss. I am always reminded when in nature about our interconnections and how we can all support each other.
Soon, I ascended from the forested area onto a rockier part of the trail where I had clear views of the jagged canyon walls. You’re at just over 4,000 feet while the tops of the canyon walls are easily more than 2,000 feet higher in elevation. Also, this is a sunnier portion of the trail, so you’ll want to make sure to reapply sunscreen.
As you hike, I hope you’ll spot even more wildflowers than I did! I passed by large boulders covered in moss and bright pops of spring color, including a yellow small-leaved monkey flower, light purple spreading phlox, red paintbrushes and pink cliff maids.
I could hear Canyon Creek Falls, or the lower falls, long before I arrived, calling to me like a music festival starring Mother Nature. And then, four miles in, I screamed in delight and briefly wondered if I’d somehow made it to the upper falls because of the size of the cascade before me. I stood in awe of the wide multi-story waterfall, watching hundreds of gallons of water rush over boulders into a deep turquoise plunge pool.
You’ll notice several jagged peaks like this one as you hike along Canyon Creek.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
I talked to three backpackers from Northern California, one of whom was celebrating a birthday, as they debated where they’d camp. I saw a total of eight people all day.
The Canyon Creek Falls, or the lower falls, are reachable via an eight-mile round-trip hike.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
As I gained elevation, I reentered another forested area with boulders at least 12 feet tall. About 4.5 miles in, you’ll pass by Upper Canyon Creek Meadow. Part of it appeared to be part wetlands, part meadow, looking like an ideal place for fish to hide if they can make it there. There was a substantial amount of bear scat in this area, so on the way back when I spotted a small cave nearby, I snapped a quick photo and skedaddled.
The trail was harder to find five miles in. I ended up off-trail multiple times, but it was usually easy to see where I’d gone wrong. Please download a map before heading out so you can check your outdoors app. And, yes, carry a paper map too just in case.
A meadow off the Canyon Creek trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
At six miles in, you’ll find yourself standing mouth agape at the middle falls. This website claims this waterfall, which is easily more than 100 feet high, is “great for whitewater enjoyment.” This sounds terrifying to me, but I’m not going to yuck anyone’s yeehaw. There is a short trail (about 400 feet) you can take to the base of the middle falls. Please use caution as it’s crumbly and a bit technical.
I did not spend too much time here because, as mentioned, I had tunnel vision for the upper falls. But stopping here would provide you with a splendid 12-mile, round-trip hike where you would get to see two massive waterfalls, an absolutely stunning river with several pools, the Sinks, mountain views and wildflowers (and probably deer because they’re everywhere in the Trinity Alps).
A river flows near the Sinks, an area just off the Canyon Creek trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
But if you want to keep going, a striking reward remains about a mile ahead. I knew I was getting tired, so I ate my favorite trail gummies and other snacks and headed past ancient trees and over rocky steps, reminding myself how lucky I was to be on the clock in the woods.
Near a large rock that resembled the Mandalorian’s helmet, I checked my map and found I’d almost made it. When I took my final turn, I could see rushing water past a stand of trees. I forged ahead and found myself standing (alone!) before 10 short cascades rushing over various sized boulders. I thought this was the upper falls, and I was impressed.
The upper falls at Canyon Creek start via a series of cascades before descending hundreds of feet down the mountain.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
But I heard a loud roar of water and I couldn’t help myself. I carefully traveled around the rocky area and realized that those waterfalls were only the upper portion of the upper falls. The water continued racing down the mountain. In total, the upper falls are easily hundreds of feet.
The upper falls of Canyon Creek is a series of cascades that collectively fall more than 100 feet down the mountain.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
I sat near the waterfall, enjoying what tasted like the best peanut butter and jelly sandwich I’d ever had, given the scenery and the journey I’d made to get there. I briefly toyed with the idea of hiking the additional 1.5 miles to the Canyon Creek Lakes, pulled by the allure of the larger of the two, which spans 25 acres and reaches a depth of 86 feet. But I knew that was foolish. I wanted to get back to my car before nightfall. And after falling deeply in love with the landscape, I know I will return to the Trinity Alps (hopefully many times).
On the hike back, I had to go slightly off trail through dense weeds to avoid some stagnant water pooled on the trail, which I’d already done once. This time, though, as I lifted my foot, one of the springy plants shot back up and slapped me right in the middle of my face. Stunned, I wondered whether my lip was bleeding. It felt a bit karmic, like the universe saying, “Hey, watch it!” I hope you’re laughing as much as I was.
It was impossible to bring my mood down after hiking in one of the most beautiful places in California and arguably the West.
3 things to do
A lone hiker takes in sweeping views of the Santa Monica Mountains at Eagle Rock along the Backbone Trail in Topanga State Park.
(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
1. Celebrate California State Parks Week across L.A. State parks across L.A. County (and California) are hosting events through Sunday to celebrate California State Parks Week. At Topanga State Park, the Santa Monica Mountains Task Force of the Sierra Club will host an introductory trail maintenance course from 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturday. At Santa Susana Pass State Historic Park, visitors can attend a morning mindfulness hike from 9 to 11 a.m. or an evening hike from 5 to 7 p.m., both on Saturday. Find events near you at castateparksweek.org.
2. Sashay down the trail in Glendale A group of local nonprofits will host Pride Outside: San Gay-briel Mountains from 5 to 8 p.m. Saturday at Deukmejian Wilderness Park in Glendale. Organizers will offer a one-mile hike at 5 and 7 p.m. to prevent overcrowding on the trail. In between, the group will hear from local organizations and watch drag performances. Register at eventbrite.com.
3. Cut the mustard in La Crescenta The Arroyos & Foothills Conservancy needs volunteers from 8 to 10 a.m. Saturday at its Rosemont Preserve in La Crescenta. Participants will yank invasives like black mustard, water newly planted native plants and perform trail maintenance. Volunteers are welcome to bring shovels, spades, loppers, hatchets and clippers. Other tools will be provided. Register at arroyosfoothills.org.
The must-read
William “Captain Smitty” Smith at Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay.
(Loren Elliott / Los Angeles Times)
This past weekend, Californians were allowed to fish in the ocean for Chinook salmon, the first time the state allowed recreational fishing of the species since 2022. Times reporter Ian James spoke to William “Captain Smitty” Smith, who was busy preparing his charter fishing boat Riptide at Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay. Smith said the moment news broke in April that the state would allow a limited amount of fishing of Chinook salmon in the ocean, his regulars called and his boat was booked up. His plan was to take out 18 people both days. California Department of Fish and Wildlife is allowing up to 7,000 of the fish to be caught. If that quota wasn’t met this past weekend, then salmon fishing will be allowed until the limit is reached, likely on July 5-6, July 31-Aug. 3 and Aug. 25-31. Given the progress the state has made on improving the salmon’s environment (although climate change has more than made it challenging), Smith told James that he’s hopeful about what the future holds. “I want there to be a fishery for my grandson,” said Smith, who has worked in the charter boat industry for 50 years. “I want him to be able to experience the thrill of catching a fish in the ocean.”
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
L.A. County Parks and Recreation is hosting family campouts through the summer, including this month where participants can learn about fishing in our local lakes at four county parks. At Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area, campers can participate in a night hike, and at Castaic Lake Recreation Area, kayaks will be available. Each event is $15 per person. Children 13 and younger are free. Register at bit.ly/OvernightCamping.
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.
The Lake District National Park is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes and charming villages, drawing visitors from across the globe — but this spot is a hidden gem
Skelwith Bridge is described on TikTok as having ‘stunning views’(Image: Getty)
Renowned globally for its awe-inspiring landscapes and quaint hamlets, the Lake District National Park lures international visitors aplenty. Though hotspots like Ambleside and Windermere typically steal the limelight, contemporary trends have wanderers hunting down more isolated retreats.
Scour through social media and you’ll find a plethora of posts praising ‘hidden gems’, as the thrill of unearthing an unsullied sanctuary is undeniably alluring.
A savvy travel expert has decided to throw the spotlight on a real hidden treasure that lies tucked away amidst frequented spots yet provides a hushed, more genuine slice of this iconic British vista.
It serves as a serene haven for explorers, situated just slightly apart from the worn pathways, offering a delightful ‘tranquil’ getaway.
Merely a stone’s throw at seven minutes by car from bustling Ambleside and a brief seventeen minutes from Grasmere stands this humble paradise.
This low-key gem, Skelwith Bridge, has generated buzz on TikTok for its “stunning views”, with even images and footage online underscoring its charm, reports the Express.
Local sage Jerry Rebbeck from Wheelwrights Holiday Cottages offered insights: “The village of Skelwith Bridge is smaller and quieter than neighbouring villages, home to only 150 people.”
This low-key gem, Skelwith Bridge, has generated buzz on TikTok(Image: Getty)
This little enclave offers an idyllic spot “a tranquil place to stay as a base for exploring the national park; with access to the fells, river walks and lakes beyond, or great to visit when staying elsewhere.”
The village’s allure is not limited to its quaint architecture but also encompasses the picturesque environment.
The travel expert revealed, “it gets its name — unsurprisingly — from a stone bridge which makes its way across the River Brathway, which is lovely for walks of all kinds, filled with the best of British wildlife such as otters, kingfishers, grey herons and various species of fish.”
Just a four-minute stroll along the riverbanks takes you to Skelwith Force, a charming sixteen-foot waterfall. Jerry points out that while it’s “lesser known than the other more dramatic waterfalls in the area… it’s a small but charming natural beauty, and adds to Skelwith Bridge’s status as a UK hidden gem.”
Venture further upstream and you’ll find Elter Water Lake, boasting an “easy, scenic walk with well-maintained paths” around its tranquil shores.
For those with a passion for history, Cathedral Cave offers a glimpse into the region’s industrial heritage. This complex of interlinked caverns forms part of a hikeable 4.7 km loop close to Coniston, Cumbria.
Jerry summed up: “It’s off the beaten track and yet close to an abundance of landmarks and beautiful scenery, giving you the best of both worlds for resting and exploring the Lakes.”
