Vienna

SUN, sea and a hint of Vienna, that’s what you get when you visit this coastal town in Croatia.

The pretty town of Opatija sits by the Adriatic Sea and has beautiful colourful buildings with terracotta roofs set around the water, which has earned it a comparison to the Austrian capital.

Conde Nast Traveller said that Opatija is nicknamed ‘Vienna by the Sea’ because of its “Belle Époque architecture” and of course, proximity to the ocean.

The publication added that the city “boasts a number of grand cafes, well-maintained public gardens, tidy beaches, fine hotels, and excellent restaurants“.

It’s a great location for exploring other destinations in Croatia too like Istria, the green mountains of Risnjak National Park, or the Island of Krk.

The town was a favourite winter escape for royal families from the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy.

HOL LOT OF FUN

Best cheap UK half-term breaks – £4pp a night, £1 meals & free Halloween fun

HOT TROPICS

Cheapest tropical destinations you can fly to on budget airlines – from £68

In 1889 the Habsburgs, a German-Austrian family that ruled a vast European empire for centuries, even declared Opatija an official climatic health resort.

Most activities around Opatija as you can imagine are on or around the water.

From walking the Lungomare promenade to visiting the statue called ‘Girl with the Seagull’ which was made in 1956 by sculptor Zvonko Car.

Another popular spot is Villa Angiolina, a summer residence turned museum and gardens – on the grounds are exotic plants from all over the world.

Then of course there are the beaches, and some of the most popular beaches are Slatina Beach, Medveja Beach and St. Ivan Beach – but don’t be expecting sand as these are mostly rocky.

Exploring outside of the main town, you’ll reach the charming fishing village of Ika, which has art nouveau architecture and a pebble beach.

From the UK, the fastest way to get to Opatija is to fly into Pula  which is just over an hour away by car.

Brits can fly directly from London Stansted, Luton, Gatwick and Bristol to Pula in two hours and 15 minutes.

The Croatian peninsula of Istria, has also been compared to looking like Italy.

Heart-shaped Istria has been compared to the Italian capital, Rome, thanks to the number of Roman buildings.

Pula’s Roman amphitheatre is the sixth largest in the world, drawing further comparisons between Istria and Italy.

There’s also the Triumphal Arch, the Door of Hercules, the Temple of the Emperor Augustus and a second small Roman theatre dotted about throughout the city for visitors to explore.

However, it’s the giant amphitheatre that people flock to visit, with gladiator reconstructions performed there in the summer.

One TripAdvisor reviewer wrote: “Like the Colosseum in Rome, the amphitheatre dominates the landscape. It’s a must-see destination.”

FREEBIE FINDER

Last minute October half-term ideas – everything you can do for FREE

SPICING UP

How ‘diva’ Geri’s ‘embarrassing’ saga with Christian reignited Spice Girls rift

Here’s more on Croatia’s largest island, Krk, which has hilltop towns, sandy beaches and it’s own airport.

Plus, here’s another Croatian town that Brits always skip is named one of the cheapest beach resorts in Europe.

The 28-year-old German recorded his 300th victory on hard courts with a comfortable victory over Musetti.

He played the key points well and made no mistake when serving out for the match after breaking the Italian fourth seed in the 11th game of the second set.

Since losing to Sinner at the Australian Open, Zverev has gone on to reach just two more finals, winning on clay in Munich in April and losing on the grass in Stuttgart in June.

That is in stark contrast to Sinner’s record, with the Italian world number two becoming the first man since Novak Djokovic in 2015-16 to appear in eight finals in successive seasons.

Sinner extended his winning streak on indoor hard courts to 20 matches and took his unbeaten record to 12 wins against Australian third seed De Minaur as he claimed a fourth consecutive straight-set victory at the ATP 500 tournament.

He was broken twice – once in each set – but battled his way through what he described as a “physical” encounter.

“I am happy how I handled it,” said the 2023 Vienna Open champion, who is aiming to secure a fourth title of the season after wins at the Australian Open, Wimbledon and China Open.

“I was a break up in the second and he broke me back. I tried to stay strong mentally so I am very happy about today’s performance and obviously to be in another final.”

Elsewhere, 19-year-old Brazilian Joao Fonseca reached the first ATP 500 final of his career with a 7-6 (7-4) 7-5 victory over unseeded Spanish player Jaume Munar at the Swiss Indoors in Basel.

He will play another Spaniard – Alejandro Davidovich Fokina – in the final after the eighth seed’s opponent Frenchman Ugo Humbert retired while trailing 7-6 (7-4) 3-1 in their semi-final.

For a “picture-perfect” festive season, this market is a must-visit and has been voted the top destination for a Christmas market

It may only be October, but many of us are already fantasising about a magical Christmas – and perhaps one final quick break before 2025 draws to a close.

And a European Christmas market that’s just over 2 hours from the UK has been declared the number one destination to visit this year for a “picture-perfect” escape.

Europe is celebrated for hosting some of the globe’s most enchanting Christmas markets that have delightful medieval backdrops, snow-covered pavements, sparkling illuminations, and fun festivities.

It’s essential viewing for both wanderlust seekers and anyone who adores the holiday period. Ranking the top 15 across the continent, The Travel Expert declared Krakow, Poland, as the finest to experience, reports Edinburgh Live.

READ MORE: Best city in the world has been unveiled and it’s not in the UKREAD MORE: Disney World guest dies by suspected suicide at luxury hotel close to monorailREAD MORE: Get airport luggage off the plane first thanks to worker’s ‘little-know’ technique

The expert revealed: “Home to Europe’s largest market square, Krakow is an excellent choice for a Christmas market break. The massive main square in the centre of the old town comes alive with hundreds of market stalls selling handmade gifts and souvenirs as well as traditional local food and mulled wine to enjoy.”

What’s even more appealing, direct flights from UK airports cost as little as £36 via easyJet. If a Christmas escape is on your 2025 wish list, here’s what you can expect on a visit to Krakow.

What does Krakow have to offer?

According to Visit Krakow, the festive market has been staged in the Main Square since the early 14th century. Krakow boasts three principal Christmas markets. The biggest can be found on Rynek Główny, the Main Square, while smaller festive gatherings operate at Plac Wolnica in Kazimierz and outside the Galeria Krakowska shopping centre.

Each market showcases a magnificent selection of seasonal presents and handicrafts, alongside substantial food offerings and warming mulled beverages. “In addition to pierogi dumplings and traditional Polish soups, there are kiosks selling skewers of meat and delicious grilled sheep cheese,” the website said. “Vodkas, liqueurs, and spirits really take the edge off a winter’s night. For pudding, there are waffles, gingerbread biscuits, and Eastern European pastries.”

Beyond food and drink, Krakow provides numerous seasonal activities. The Old Town and Kazimierz markets showcase stages hosting holiday performances throughout December, while the Galeria Krakowska market includes a small ice rink.

A standout feature of the city’s festive customs is the szopki krakowskie nativity scenes. Rather than conventional nativity displays, these vibrantly coloured models draw inspiration from the city’s churches and cathedrals.

A representative from Krakow Christmas’ official website also declared: “Krakow Christmas market is one of the most picture-perfect settings for a Christmas market that you can imagine. Krakow’s Main Square is huge.

“It is one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and amongst all the Christmas market stalls is the beautiful twin-towered basilica of St Mary’s. In the centre of the square is the Cloth Hall. In Polish, the Cloth Hall is called Sukiennice (pronounced Sukyenitse). Krakow’s Cloth Hall is THE place to go for souvenirs throughout the whole year, and Christmas-time is no exception.”

The blog page also suggests there may be a chance of a white Christmas for those seeking the perfect winter wonderland. Experts say snow is most likely to fall in southern Poland, and Krakow sits close to the Tatra mountain, offering the city a much stronger prospect of a snowy backdrop – though, as ever, the weather remains unpredictable.

Is Krakow worth a visit?

A travel blogger called The Sunshine Seeker, who lived in Krakow and visited it at least 10 times, shared her view on whether the market is genuinely excellent. She said: “So is Krakow Christmas Market worth visiting? My answer is YES, but… It is worth it because Krakow is worth it.

“Krakow is one of the most beautiful yet affordable weekend getaways in Europe. However, I wouldn’t plan a visit to Krakow just for the Christmas Market, there are better destinations such as Dresden and Strasbourg for that. Or Wroclaw Christmas Market which is the largest in Poland.”

If you’re planning a visit, the 2025 market is set to open on November 28 and will run until December 26, with some stalls remaining open through the New Year. Direct flights from Edinburgh Airport to Krakow cost as little as £35.99 via easyJet. According to the Sunshine Seeker, the Christmas Market is open from around 10:00 until 8:00 pm, and the food stalls are open even later.

The optimal time to experience Krakow Christmas Market is during the week when it’s dark as it will allow you to soak up the atmosphere. Sundays are extremely busy. Krakow is a walkable city, meaning tourists can stroll to the Christmas Market from most hotels.

“I always recommend you stay in Kazmierz, my favourite neighbourhood in Krakow, or somewhere along the park that encircles the Old Town,” said the blogger. She continued: “I find Krakow Christmas Market one of Europe’s most affordable.

“The market has some more expensive items; however, Krakow, and Poland in general, is still quite affordable. You can expect to pay €3 – €10 for food, €4.5 for a draft beer and $5.5 for mulled wine.”

Amazon deal on Deenkee Robot Vacuum Cleaner

This article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more

£359.99

£129.99

Amazon

Buy Now on Amazon

The Deenkee Robot Vacuum Cleaner also mops and has a runtime of 120 minutes.

You may dash for your morning commuter train, but you won’t want to rush for the sleeper to Vienna. The Nightjet train to the Austrian capital is the most illustrious departure of the day from Amsterdam. There is an art to conducting the perfect departure and the perfect arrival, the bookends of a thrilling overnight journey.

There are four major hubs for sleeper services across western and central Europe: Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna and Zurich. Then there are secondary nodes at Budapest, Brussels, Milan, Munich, Paris and Prague. Most of the region’s night trains start or end in one of these 10 cities. Whatever your departure point, savour the moment by going for an aperitif and a relaxed dinner before boarding. And upon arrival, don’t just dash on – linger over a coffee and let the morning, and the city, develop around you.

Amsterdam Centraal

For ÖBB Nightjets to Basel, Innsbruck, Munich, Vienna and Zurich; and European Sleeper to Berlin, Dresden and Prague

Don’t miss the excellent Grand Café Restaurant 1e Klas in the former first-class waiting room (entrance via platform 2B). It opens at 9.30am, so the perfect spot for breakfast after decanting from a Nightjet (or an early-morning Eurostar from London), and stays open till late evening, so also ideal for pre-departure supper. It serves fairly priced Dutch staples in a space that oozes retro flair. The Guardian, no less, has called it one of the “finest station eateries in Europe”.

An alternative pre-departure option for drinks and dinner is Bistro Berlage in the undercroft of the former Beurs (stock exchange), seven minutes walk from the station.

This can be a frustrating station, with fierce ticket barriers guarding platform access (luggage lockers in the east wing from €10 per day). It gets another black mark for the lack of showers for passengers arriving on overnight trains, but a big plus for being at the very heart of the city it serves – its enchanted canal network is right outside the station.

Just head south from the station to hit the main sights. If, like me, you prefer to cut away from the crowds, then leave the station on the north side and hop on the F4 ferry for a free 15-minute ride to the NSDM Wharf, an old shipyard that is now a creative and cultural hub with many alt-vibe cafes.

Berlin Hauptbahnhof

For ÖBB Nightjets to Basel, Graz, Paris, Vienna and Zurich; SJ/RDC or Snälltåget to Stockholm; MÁV Euronight to Bratislava, Prague and Budapest; European Sleeper to Amsterdam and Brussels; and, from later this year, PKPIC night sleepers to Chelm and Przemyśl in eastern Poland

A multi-level essay in glass with a striking vaulted roof, the station is on five levels, with level 0 in the middle and trains departing/arriving on levels -2 and +2 – all utterly confusing for a first-timer. The station isn’t the most relaxing spot to linger, but for the exalted few, Deutsche Bahn’s premium (first-class) lounge is an oasis of calm.

For an extraordinary breakfast in a stunning setting, book a table at Käfer on the roof terrace of the Reichstag (900 metres from station, open daily from 9am). For a posh pre-departure dinner, Paris-Moskau at Alt-Moabit 141 (open from 6pm) is a traditional Berlin restaurant in a half-timbered building just 400 metres away.

With time on your hands, catch the vibe of the German capital by wandering along the banks of the River Spree, passing the Reichstag en route to the Brandenburg Gate.

Leave luggage at the DB Gepäck lockers (levels -1 and +1, from €2 for two hours or €4 a day). Shower for a fee at the “rail and fresh” facility on level 0.

Vienna Hauptbahnhof

For ÖBB Nightjets to Amsterdam, Berlin, Bregenz, Brussels, Cologne, Dresden, Hamburg, Hanover, Milan, Paris, Venice and Zurich (also until late September, additionally with ÖBB Nightjets to Florence, Rome and Verona); for Euronight to Kraków, Stuttgart and Warsaw; and other operators to Bucharest, Braşov, Kyiv and Lviv, plus summer-season overnight trains to Rijeka and Split

Fully opened 10 years ago, Vienna’s Hauptbahnhof rates as one of Europe’s most efficient transport hubs and boasts a greater range of destinations than any other station in Europe.

For a relaxed breakfast, skip the fast-food options in the station and head for Café Goldegg, with its elegant wood panelling and art nouveau style (on corner of Goldeggasse and Argentinierstrasse). Ask nicely and they’ll even knock you up a full English.

For evening eats, I recently followed the advice of Mark Smith, the legendary Man in Seat 61, and tried the excellent Ringsmuth at Johannitergasse 1 (closed Sun and Mon), a traditional Viennese restaurant with schnitzel galore as well as fish and veggie options.

Vienna Hauptbahnhof is south of the city centre. Three stops north on the U1 metro is Stephansplatz, where you can cleanse your soul at the lovely St Stephens Cathedral. Or go two stops south on the U1 to Reumannplatz to cleanse the body in art deco elegance at the wonderful Amelienbad indoor pool – a triumph of progressive socialist design. A visit will help make up for the lack of showers at the railway station for those arriving on night trains (but there are luggage lockers aplenty, from €2).

Zurich Hauptbahnhof

For ÖBB Nightjets to Amsterdam, Berlin, Bremen, Cologne, Graz, Hamburg and Vienna; and Euronight to Budapest, Dresden, Ljubljana, Prague and Zagreb

Zurich’s main station is a place for grand arrivals – check out the colourful flying angel pivoting over the concourse. Then freshen up with a shower (mezzanine level, €12). And now it’s time for breakfast …

My go-to spot is Roots on Lintheschergasse, just two minutes from the platforms. Power porridge and avocado toast go down a treat after a night on the rails, as do all sorts of shakes and juices. For pre-departure supper, try Maru, a little oasis of Japan on level 2 of the shopping complex under the station serving matcha and “Japanese comfort food”.

I love Zurich for its small-town feel. Having arrived on a night train and lingered over breakfast, I usually wander down pedestrianised Bahnhofstrasse and make for St Peterhofstatt, a haven of calm in the historic heart of the city.

London

Paddington station for the GWR Night Riviera for 11 destinations in Cornwall; Euston station for Caledonian Sleeper trains to 40-plus stations in Scotland

Let’s not forget London. The last direct night sleeper service to the continent stopped 45 years ago (that was the Night Ferry to Brussels and Paris, which for a spell even conveyed a through sleeping car to Switzerland) but you can slip between crisp, clean sheets in sleepers departing the UK capital for the Cornish coast or Scottish Highlands.

Arriving passengers can benefit from posh arrival lounges with free showers at both Paddington and Euston, although the facilities at the latter are only for those who booked en suite accommodation on the train.

Passengers departing Euston should board early and head straight to the Club Car (seats are limited) for dinner for a taste of Scotland and a wee dram as they head north. Those departing from Paddington to Cornwall should take a chilled bottle of champagne to enjoy in the GWR lounge (the former royal waiting room) on Platform 1.

Nicky Gardner is co-author of Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide. The 18th edition is available from the Guardian Bookshop for £20.99 (additional postage charges may apply)

Every recreational golfer of my generation has at least two things in common: We grew up revering Tiger Woods, and we know “Happy Gilmore,” the 1996 Adam Sandler golf comedy, like the back of our hands. Which millennial, while lining up a putt on the green, hasn’t told himself at some point to just “tap it in — give it a little tappy, a tap tap taparoo”? Who among us, before hitting a challenging tee shot, hasn’t at some point first closed his eyes and attempted to escape to his very own “happy place”? And above all, which of us hasn’t spent hours upon hours at the local driving range trying to master the craft that is protagonist Happy Gilmore’s signature running golf swing?

For all of us picking up the game once described by sports journalist John Feinstein as “a good walk spoiled,” Sandler’s character was a never-ending font of laughs and inspiration. Like so many others of my generation, then, I was very excited to watch “Happy Gilmore 2,” just released on Netflix on July 25. The sequel, 29 years in the making, didn’t have a script as instantly quotable as the original, nor was it as memorable. (Which film sequel, besides “The Godfather Part II” or “The Empire Strikes Back,” ever has been?) But “Happy Gilmore 2” still surpassed expectations: It was at times a bit silly, but it was still rollicking fun, replete with nostalgic flashbacks and a bevy of pro golfer cameos.

But it’s also more than that. It would be a mistake to dismiss the two movies as purely frivolous fare — good just for a few laughs. Rather, Sandler, long known for leading a private, low-key lifestyle that eschews the Hollywood limelight, has a specific message for Happy’s myriad fans: Family always comes first.

In the original film, Happy, a hockey fanatic whose weak skating skills inhibited his pro hockey aspirations, reluctantly takes up golf for one reason: to earn enough money to save his beloved grandmother’s home from a bank foreclosure and return her there from a hostile nursing home. Throughout the film, Happy emphasizes this as his sole motivation for biting his lips and suffering through what he calls “golf sissy crap.” Happy doesn’t particularly care about the game of golf. He’s just doing it for Grandma.

In the sequel, Happy, now considerably older and a father of five, has retired from golf and developed a bad drinking habit. A single father, he is struggling to make ends meet and provide for his daughter Vienna. Early in the film, Vienna’s dance instructor recommends that Happy enroll her in an advanced four-year ballet school in Paris, which would cost $75,000 annually. Happy senses that Vienna’s dream to dance ballet is similar to his old dream of playing hockey. With the encouragement of John Daly (one of many real-life pro golfers cast as themselves), he dusts off his old golf clubs and gives it a go again. Spoiler alert, without giving away too many of the specifics: The film has a happy ending for Happy’s family.

Clearly, this is not just about golf and laughs.

Sandler, a onetime registered and politically active Republican, is conveying to his audience a traditional conservative message: A life well lived is not a solipsistic one that exalts the self, but an altruistic one that places the interests of others above all else. These “others” are usually those closest to us — family members, older and younger generations alike, to whom we have obligations. You might notice that in both films, Happy plays golf only for others — not for himself.

Happy, who once fought to save the house his grandfather built, now finds himself trying to do right by the next generation. It is these relationships — with those who came before us and those who come after us — that give our lives meaning and purpose. And in “Happy Gilmore 2,” Sandler drives home that message in the most personal way possible: He casts his real-life wife and his two daughters — one as the aspiring ballerina.

The foul-mouthed, trash-talking rebel of golf, Happy Gilmore, is onto something important. Perhaps more of Sandler’s Hollywood colleagues ought to listen. They might learn something.

Josh Hammer’s latest book is “Israel and Civilization: The Fate of the Jewish Nation and the Destiny of the West.” This article was produced in collaboration with Creators Syndicate. @josh_hammer

Toasted ham baguettes in hand, we cheered as the new-generation Nightjet drew into Vienna Hauptbahnhof. It was a little before 7pm, and as the carriages hummed past I felt a rush of joy, like celebrity trainspotter Francis Bourgeois, but without the GoPro on my forehead. For more than three years I’ve been documenting the renaissance of sleeper trains, and I’d wondered if I might one day tire of them. But the thrill seems only to intensify each time I embark on another nocturnal adventure, this time with my two daughters – aged eight and five – who were already arguing over the top berth. The first four carriages were designated for travellers to the Italian port city of La Spezia, the other seven carrying on to Roma Tiburtina, where we would alight at 10am. Once in Rome we had 24 hours to eat classic carbonara, dark chocolate gelato, and bike around the Villa Borghese before taking a train to Florence.

Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has played the lead role in resuscitating Europe’s night trains. Towards the end of 2016, ÖBB launched its Nightjet network on 14 routes, using old rolling stock it bought from Deutsche Bahn. Then, to the delight of train nerds like me, it launched a brand-new fleet at the end of 2023, and now operates 20 routes across Europe. We were now on board this high-spec service, which smelled of freshly unpacked furniture, the carpets soft underfoot, the lighting adjustable to disco hues of neon blue and punk pink.

We were booked into a couchette carriage, which mostly comprisesd mini cabins designed for solo travellers preferring privacy. Placing shoes and small bags in lockers, passengers can open a metal door with a keycard and crawl into their single berth, drawing the door closed around them, and not have to look at another human until morning. Last year I had trialled the mini cabins from Vienna to Hamburg alongside a tall friend who had likened the experience to sleeping inside a bread bin, though I hadn’t found it as claustrophobic as I’d feared, just a bit hard, chilly, and with a pillow as flat as a postage stamp. So I was curious to see how the carriage’s four-person private compartments, for families and groups, would differ.

Normally happy to share with strangers, I’d booked a whole compartment for the three of us: more to protect other hapless travellers from my children, who were now swinging off the berths like members of Cirque du Soleil, their sweaty socks strewn under the seats. With raised sides, the upper berths were safe for the girls to sleep in without rolling out, and I set about tucking in their sheets while they settled down to finish their baguettes. There is no dining car on the Nightjet, so we’d bought food from the station, which was now moving backwards as the train sailed out of the Austrian capital in silence, smoothly curving south-west.

Two days earlier we’d arrived in Vienna by train from London, via Paris, and had checked into the Superbude Wien Prater, a curious hotel that appeared part art-installation, part hostel, with gen Zs slouched around worn leather sofas on MacBooks. With four-bed family cabins overlooking the Prater amusement park, it was a great location from which to explore the city, then finish the evening with a terrifying rollercoaster and a spicy Bitzinger wurst. A friend had described Vienna to me as a grand and beautiful “retirement village”, but, on the contrary, its green spaces, playgrounds and museums made it an easy stop for 48 hours with kids.

Hopping off the Nightjet from Paris, we’d gone straight to my favourite restaurant, Edelgreisslerei Opocensky – an unassuming nook serving homely dishes such as stuffed gnocchi, and goulash with dumplings – before whiling away an afternoon at the Children’s Museum at Schönbrunn Palace.

Dressing up like young Habsburgs, the girls had swanned around in wigs and musty gowns, laying tables for banquets and begging not to leave – a far cry from our usual museum experiences. Before boarding this train we’d had one last run around the interactive Technical Museum, where the human-sized hamster wheels, peg games and slides had so worn out the children that my five-year-old was asleep as the train plunged into the Semmering mountain pass.

It was still light as we swept around the Alps, my eight-year-old kneeling at the window and asking where local people shopped, so few and far between were signs of human life. Horses grazed in paddocks, cows nuzzled, and the occasional hamlet emerged from round a bend as though the chalets were shaken like dice and tossed into the slopes. In the blue-grey twilight we watched streams gleam like strips of metal, and spotted a single stag poised at the edge of a wood, before the train made a long stop at the Styrian city of Leoben, at which point we turned in.

Like the mini cabins, the compartment was still too cold, the pillow still too flat, but the berths were wider and the huge window a blessing compared with the single berths’ portholes – this one allowed for wistful gazing.

Shoving a rolled-up jumper under my head, I fell asleep, waking at 7am to rumpled clouds and a golden flare on the horizon. Most night trains terminate soon after passengers have woken up, but this one was perfect, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of hot chocolate and jam rolls while watching the Tuscan dawn breaking into song, and Umbrian lakes and cornfields running parallel before we finally drew into Rome – on time.

When travelling alone I relish arriving with the entire day at my disposal, but with children it’s hard work waiting until 3pm to check in to accommodation, so I default to staying at a Hoxton hotel if one is available. Its Flexy Time policy allows guests to choose what time they check in and out for free, and by 11am we had checked in, showered and set off to toss coins in the Trevi fountain, finding thick whorls of eggy carbonara at nearby trattoria Maccheroni, and gelato at Don Nino. To avoid the crowds and heat, we waited until 6pm to hire an electric pedal car from Bici Pincio at the Villa Borghese and drove around the landscaped, leafy grounds, relishing the quietness of the evening ride. Excited about the next adventure in Florence, the girls had only one complaint: that they couldn’t ride there on the night train.

Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train (Bloomsbury, £22), published on 28 August and available on pre-order at guardianbookshop.com

Omio provided travel in a four-person private compartment in a couchette carriage from Vienna to Rome (from £357). Accommodation was provided by Superbude Wien Prater in Vienna (doubles from €89 room-only); and The Hoxton in Rome (doubles from €189 room-only)