stayed

LONDON has a new cheap hotel chain – and it’s already a huge success in Europe.

BOB W joined the scene back in 2019 , followed by its first hotel in the UK capital in 2024.

It’s a take on pared back hotels, close to an Airbnb but without the hidden fees, as well as much loved extras like gyms, luggage lockers and breakfast options.

I stayed at the newest hotel, Bob W Hyde Park, which only opened earlier this year, and paid £59 for a room for two people.

This was with the five per cent discount you can get when signing up to the free Inner Circle membership of the hotel.

It’s a short walk from Queensway tube station, as well as close to Paddington train station.

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GRAND DAME

I stayed at the grand 172-year-old hotel that is ‘London’s best connected’

Everything is done online, via the website or app, where you’re sent codes to get access to the building and room.

As it is a blend of Airbnb and B&B, but without all the much hated bits of each, this means you can forget the steep cleaning fees – you just pay the room cost.

Before I arrived, I received a phone call: “We’re so sorry but we’ve had to downgrade your room from a spacious to a compact. We will refund the difference but we’re really sorry.”

Slightly frustrating but, as a solo traveller, no biggie (apart from the fact they were the same price, so no refund for me).

However, everything else? Smooth as anything.

Arriving at 3:30pm, I easily entered the building – it is in the Henry Hotel but with Bob W posters to reassure you you’re in the right place.

There’s no lobby for guests, although there was a man behind the desk for the hotel guests themselves.

I personally love a lobby reception, as I’m often down there when my key doesn’t work, I have questions about the area or just need someone on hand.

But if you are someone who hates the awkward interactions then its the hotel for you.

Another nice touch within the lobby filled with sofas and chairs was a cupboard with free extras, such as toilet roll, ear plugs and spare tea and and coffee pods, as well as leaflets and London hotel guides.

The room was perfect too – clean, spacious, and modern.

A coffee pod machine and kettle were joined by complimentary towels, as well as a hairdryer, ironing board and safe, along with a huge TV.

Despite being the ‘compact’ room, it had a desk for working too. 

The bathroom looked recently renovated with a big walk in shower and complimentary toiletries.

Some of the hotels have added extras too, like kitchenettes and washing areas, which make them ideal for longer stays.

One downside was that it comes with “complimentary gym access,” but this was just a pass to one that was 45 minutes away at another Bob W hotel, so I didn’t end up going.

Breakfast is extra – I paid £13 – and it includes food and drink at a choice of cafes as well, although only up to this price (any bill over £13, the difference needs to be covered).

If you are on a budget you can easily skip this and just buy some snacks at a nearby bakery or corner shop, but if you want a proper breakfast, it definitely wasn’t overpriced.

I also loved getting to know the cafe owner, as it was a proper local caf so ended up chatting for ages.

So what’s the verdict?

I was seriously impressed with the whole process. Emails were sent promptly, check in was easy, the rooms were clean and the location can’t be beaten.

One of the biggest problems with Airbnbs is the lack of luggage storage, especially if need somewhere to leave it before a flight or train, so I’m glad this wasn’t a problem here.

Even with the smaller niggles, a room for £30 each in central London? I’m not sure I’ve seen a price like that in years – at least for a place as chic as this.

Other cheap dates still available:

• March 3-4 at Bob W Earls Court – £61 a night (£30.50 each)
• March 16-17 at Bob W London Olympia – £79 a night (£39.50 each)
• March 25-26 at Bob W London Kensington – £77 a night (£38.50 each)
• April 12-13 at Bob W London Holland Park – £76 a night (£38 each)

We’ve found another cheap hotel in London where you sleep in a private pod.

And here are our top 100 cheap hotels in the UK.

“TONY ‘the Slugger’ Rizzo, boss of New York’s Castelli crime family, wiped the blood off the baseball bat with the dead guy’s toupee…”

“Grandad!” 

“ . . . He jabbed a finger at his late accountant and shouted: ‘See what happens when you double-cross me, you muthaf . . . ’ ”

“Grandad!!”

“ ‘. . . and you gone and got your blood all over my freakin’ money. So now I gotta waste my day laundering it!’ . . . ”

“GRANDAD!!!”

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HOLI-YAY

Top travel mum influencer reveals her best cheap, family-friendly hotels

I am lying on a beautiful Greek beach, a good book in my hand and a cold Mythos beer on the table beside me.

It’s holiday perfection, but someone keeps interrupting.

Two-year-olds . . . it’s all about them, isn’t it?

My wife and I are in Skiathos with our daughter and her husband and our granddaughter Flo.

We’re on one of those multi-generational breaks — or as we grandparents call it, a working holiday.

(“Just off to the spa. Can you look after Flo?” “Can Flo stay with you while we go into town?” “We thought we might have dinner on our own tonight. Just the two of us . . . ”)

Luckily, we are at the Princess Resort, a wonderful hotel just 20 minutes from the island’s airport that knows how to help families relax — especially grandparents who have forgotten what holidaying with a toddler entails.

We first came here about 15 years ago, when my daughter and her brother and sister were young, and had one of our best ever family holidays. I didn’t get much reading done then either . . . 

The hotel may be the most famous on the island thanks to Mamma Mia!.

The cast stayed here during filming and Colin Firth loved it so much, he came back the next year.

You can see why. It is located in beautiful, manicured gardens in the sheltered bay of Agia Paraskevi.

Rooms are in a two-storey building in a semi-circle which means everyone gets a view of the beach.

And what a beach! A long stretch of immaculate golden sand with shallow, warm water gently lapping up against it. It’s the perfect setting for one of the big ambitions of our holiday: Operation Get Flo Swimming.

Flo loves going to the pool at home in Brighton and is just learning, but what would she make of the sea?

After some initial reluctance caused by the feel of the sand between her toes and several swallows of salty water, she soon takes to it.

And, naturally, it’s grandad she wants to keep going in with her for a splash about.

The beach’s sun loungers and tiki umbrellas are all reserved for guests and free but you can shell out on a cabana.

OK, this isn’t cheap at €90 a day but it is definitely worth it, especially with a baby or toddler. We were in Skiathos in June and, God, it was hot.

With a cabana you have a proper base on the beach in the shade where you can snooze, eat and read (yeah, right).

It’s vital when you are trying to keep a little one from getting sunburned.

The Princess Resort is great for children. There’s a complimentary kids’ club, the Little Seals Club, a superb outdoor play area and a €15-a-night babysitting service. (Now they tell me.)

Plus, a lot of the equipment you need — from high chairs and potties to car seats and even prams — is available from reception.

(Don’t even bother asking about the fuss we had packing for a holiday with a toddler.)

But, adults need a break, too, you know, and the hotel offers scuba diving, horse riding, water sports and fishing and sailing trips. Or you can just kick back and take advantage of the massages and beauty treatments in the spa.

The Princess Resort is B&B, which means you are not tied to the hotel for dinner.

But make sure you eat at Ammos, the hotel’s taverna on the beach, which specialises in fresh seafood.

It’s not cheap but the location and grub is definitely worth it. And they love kids.

As do the staff at the superb Platanias Taverna & Bar over the road from the hotel.

It’s a good value family-run restaurant serving traditional food, where children can run free while indulgent staff manoeuvre around them without complaint.

It would be Jan Leeming’s restaurant nightmare.

For an upmarket, foodie experience head to the waterfront Baracoa about ten minutes away from the hotel by taxi.

It’s expensive, but the setting and menu have made it one of the must-visit places to eat on Skiathos.

Oh, and for a meal WITHOUT nippers, try the Princess Resort’s sister hotel, the boutique adults-only Aegean Suites Hotel, just outside town. Amazing food and terrific views over the old marina.

One of the great things about Skiathos is that you don’t need a car.

There’s a bus stop right outside the Princess Resort and the fare into town is just €2.

Or splash out €40 and get a boat ride from the jetty along from the hotel and arrive in town in style.

A word of warning, though — taxis can be thin on the ground in Skiathos Town in the evening. So if you are planning a late return, get a cab into town and arrange a return pick-up with the driver.

There are plenty of upmarket boutiques, bars and restaurants to discover in this beautiful whitewashed island capital.

It’s great to sit on the waterfront with a beer and watch the boats come and go.

And not much beats wandering around the narrow alleyways and coming across some enticing looking bar or a cafe serving delicious Greek treats.

Watch out for the scooters, though.

Since Mamma Mia! was filmed in the Sporades islands, Skiathos Town has definitely moved upmarket and it is a lot busier — even though most of the movie locations are on Skopelos and Alonissos.

But it retains a friendly, down-to-earth vibe you simply don’t get in the A-list hangouts of Santorini and Mykonos.

Anyway, after a long, tiring day of exploring in Skiathos Town, Flo’s finally in bed — so at last I can get some serious reading done.

Here we go: “It was Peppa Pig’s birthday and Daddy Pig had a great idea . . . ”

DESIGNED by one of the UK’s most famous civil engineer, Hilton London Paddington is both well connected and grand.

Here’s everything you need to know.

Where is the Hilton London Paddington?

I can see why they call it London’s best connected hotel, being adjoining to London Paddington Station.

Along with trains to destinations such as Plymouth and Oxford, from here there are five London Underground routes, as well as a fast 15-minute train to London Heathrow.

What is the hotel like?

The grand hotel dates back to 1854, originally called the Great Western Royal Hotel by HRH Prince Albert.

It was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, an English civil engineer behind Great Western Railway, the Clifton Suspension Bridge, and London Paddington Station, as well as the hotel.

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The hotel itself immerses you in the grandeur straight away, with a huge pillared entrance and stairs, before an art deco lobby and bar.

A nod to its railway history is throughout also, with railway photography displayed and a steam train mural along the main staircase.

It also has all of the amenities so a gym, restaurant and 18 meeting rooms named after historic Great Western Railway locomotives.

What are the rooms like?

There are 424 rooms to choose from, with many undergoing renovations later this year.

My suite was spacious and modern, with a massive super king bed next to a chaise lounge and desk.

The bathrooms were just as beautiful, with marble walls and floors and Crabtree and Evelyn toiletries. 

They fix problems quickly too – my WiFi wasn’t working and quick call to reception got it up and running. 

Rooms start from £235 on a room only basis. See hilton.com.

What is there to eat and drink at the hotel?

The recently renovated Carriages Restaurant is where you will find everything from breakfast to dinner.

The buffet is extremely large, with an interesting variety – such as papayas and banana toffee muffins.

Hot full English breakfasts along with, fruit, cereal, bakery, and lots of vegetarian and halal options.

Come back for dinner for everything from pizza and burgers to curries and salads.

Or, grab a lighter snack and a cocktail at the 146 Paddington Bar & Lounge as well.

What else is there to do?

The hotel also has an on-site gym to make the most of.

However, it’s central location means it is easy to explore London’s top attractions with a short train ride.

Don’t want to go too far? A short walk from the hotel is the Paddington Bear Statue, or the Alexander Fleming Museum.

Is it family friendly?

There are family rooms and connecting rooms, with kids up to 18 years old staying free when sharing a room with a paying adult on a room only rate.

Kids aged 5 and under enjoy free breakfast, while those aged 6-11 enjoy a 50 per cent discount on breakfast.

Is it accessible?

The hotel has a number of accessible rooms, as well as accessible toilets in the main building.

Bath seats and pillow alarms can be requested and there is a deaf alert system at the hotel, as well as lifts and wheelchair access.

“YOU, with me.” The pilot pointed at the cockpit of the two-seat-wide propeller plane and I obediently clambered in.

The tiny aircraft rattled along the runway, and I took a deep breath, only to let out a gasp after take-off as I looked down.

The crystalline Caribbean sea glittered below us, and as far as the eye could see the waters were peppered with sandy cays and islands — one of which was to be my home for the next few days.

Anguilla is just a 45-minute flight from the more-visited Antigua — and despite the island being so small that it only needs six traffic lights, it’s home to not one, but two of the best beaches in the world.

One of these is the breathtaking Shoal Bay, which I got to marvel at from my lavish ocean-view room at Zemi Beach House, set right on the sand.

You won’t see any cruise ships, jet skis or thumping beach clubs here.

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This unspoiled stretch of pristine sand is lined with swaying palm trees on one side and soft, turquoise waves on the other, both a welcome presence in the 30C heat.

The upscale hotel has an elegant open-plan layout, two infinity pools (including one that’s child-free), a walkaround bar service and a spa, which sits inside a 300-year-old authentic Thai house, transported and reconstructed piece by piece.

Lounging in the spa’s quiet zone post-massage as I listened to the sounds of the island with an iced drink, I understood why Anguilla prides itself on the slogan “Tranquility wrapped in blue”.

An entire holiday could easily be spent without leaving Zemi — after all, it also has its own tennis court, gym, boutique, bars and restaurants.

But Anguilla’s magic is not confined to the famous Shoal Bay.

Orange-flowered flamboyant trees (flamboyant by name and by nature) and colourful bungalows lined the roads as an enthusiastic local named Kelvis guided us round his home island. A short drive brought us to The Arch, a doorway-shaped rock formation over the ocean that wouldn’t look out of place in the Algarve.

Years of footfall by tourists wanting THE Instagram shot have made walking onto it now unsafe, but I was more than happy to forgo that and simply take in the vista, something I also did at the impressive Sandy Ground viewing platform.

Inland, we admired the striking architecture of the island’s Catholic church and visited Wallblake House, Anguilla’s only surviving plantation building, which now serves as a museum.

There was one spot, however, that Kelvis couldn’t take us: Little Bay. The smallest of Anguilla’s 33 beaches, this cove is only accessible by hanging onto a rope and climbing down a cliff face, or via the water.

None of us fancied going home with crutches and a cast, so we kayaked from the nearby Crocus Bay in transparent boats which allowed us to spot a couple of sea turtles underwater as we paddled.

If kayaking isn’t your thing, don’t fret — a stay at the Frangipani Beach Resort will give you a chance to visit Little Bay on their very own catamaran, the FrangiCat.

The pastel pink resort sits on Meads Bay — Anguilla’s other world-class beach that made the global top 50 — and has an intimate atmosphere without compromising on luxury in its enormous suites.

We spent the second half of our trip at Frangipani gazing out to sea from the quiet shore while petting the resort dog, Sunny, and sipping on generous rum punches.

And there is certainly no shortage of rum in Anguilla. A tasting session with Glo’s Flavoured Rums allowed us to try the locally crafted spirit on the beach while Gloria’s (Glo’s) own daughters talked us through the range of tropical options.

I’ve never been much of a rum fan, but sampling banana, sorrel, guava berry, cinnamon and ten more flavours had me asking “Why is the rum gone?” faster than you could say “Jack Sparrow”.

Luckily, lining your stomach on this island is just as exciting for the taste buds.

Modest beach shacks serve up the freshest grilled seafood with rice and peas, plantain and Johnny cakes, a delicious fried bread.

The skewered mahi-mahi at Madeariman, the spicy lobster at Mango’s Seaside Grill and the barbecued shrimp tacos at Da’Vida Beach Club are must-trys for a sit-down meal with a view, though many Anguillians will just fire up their own roadside BBQs to enjoy the catch of the day.

Rendezvous at Tasty’s is also excellent. The restaurant runs on “Caribbean time” so don’t expect your crayfish in a hurry, but it’s an excuse to spend time sipping a Carib beer on the dreamy Rendezvous Bay.

On our final evening, Kelvis suggested we head to Elvis beach bar, a favourite watering hole among the locals.

The owner was, of course, Elvis — who one minute was serving drinks from the boat-shaped bar and the next was on stage with the band singing some Bob Marley.

Swinging in a hammock as the words to Three Little Birds echoed around me, I could tell that, like its rum, this island was going to stay with me for a good while.

This little town in Yorkshire is ideal for fans of Emily Bronte’s gothic story thanks to its wild and rugged surroundings, and nearby attractions that might just be haunted…

Sometimes, when a storm hits the UK, rain batters the pavements and wind whips the trees, it’s easy to feel swept up in the kind of awe-inspiring conditions that helped Emily Brontë to write her classic novel, Wuthering Heights.

There is a little town in Yorkshire, 100miles from Cathy and Heathcliff’s home, but steeped in as much Gothic drama, where every day feels like you’ve tumbled into such dark Victorian melodrama.

As I stepped aboard my coach bound for Whitby, I imagined a sleepy seaside town, much like those down south that slowly emerge as you drive along the road towards the sea. What I got was very different.

Just getting to Whitby was a beautiful journey. The town is nestled between the rugged expanse of the moors and the wild thrashing of the North Sea. In days gone by, travellers would only be able to access it if they hiked for miles along the hills and valleys of the North York Moors or braved the violent waves of the sea. Now, we have cars and trains, but both still take you over the moors.

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As my coach sped through the twists and turns of the roads across the moors, I was like a child, with my face pressed against the window. There wasn’t a soul for miles, just acres and acres of heather. Once in Whitby, when you hear the waves crash against the sea defences and feel the wind whistle past your ears, it’s easy to see how someone might think a faint voice calling for Heathcliff was coming over their shoulder.

The town itself is split into two halves. The newer section was built following the Second World War, but much of the town is older and filled with Georgian terraces. Even older is Whitby Abbey, whose ruins stand proudly at the top of a cliff and have inspired many a tale, including Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

If you walk along the coast from the nearby villages of Saltmoore and Sandsend, the gothic ruins stay within your sightline. Lucky hikers will get to see the sea fog – which locals used to believe was the fiery breath of a dragon – come in to cover the abbey. You’ll feel like you’re trekking the same paths Heathcliff did as he searched for Catherine’s ghost, not least because Emerald Fennell’s new film was shot about two hours away, in the Yorkshire Dales.

The most remarkable sight comes when you walk back towards Whitby, as when the fog clears, the Abbey can be seen looming through a gap between the cliffs. It’s terrifying and awe-inspiring all at once. I felt drawn towards the ruins, much as Cathy is drawn to Heathcliff or as an entranced Lucy is drawn to Dracula. How could anyone resist such a terrible sight?

Indeed, not Whitby residents of years gone by. Whitby Storyteller, Rose Rylands, who tells of the myths of the moors. When Rose spoke about the ghostly figures said to appear on the hilltops, goosebumps pebbled my skin, as if I was walking with them myself.

The tale of Bram’s inspiration in Whitby was similarly haunting. During a holiday, the author stayed on the West Cliff, offering views of the Abbey, which he felt suited the Gothic atmosphere of his story. One day, he turned to the local library to research a shipwreck, only to discover the name ‘Dracula’ in the records. Its meaning in the Wallachian language, Bram learned, is ‘devil’.

When Rose told us these tales, the winter’s night pressing against the hostel windows, my heart started to beat faster. I began to wonder if I, too, would soon be hallucinating the ghost of lost love calling to me.

Of course, Heathcliff’s hallucinations of Cathy’s ghost all happen at night, and there really is nowhere better to see the stars than the North York Moors. The national park is a designated International Dark Sky Reserve, one of only 25 in the world, protected from light pollution and able to provide clear horizons, clouds permitting. As someone who grew up in London and finds it hard to sleep without the orange glow of streetlights coming in through the curtains, just standing in complete darkness is a wonder. When the stars are visible, there are no words.

We went to Castle Howard, a stately home that has served as a filming location for Brideshead Revisited and Bridgerton, to see the stars. Except for the enormous house, there is nothing around for miles, leaving the sky unpolluted by light. Inside, the house is equally beautiful.

The entrance hall is a vast space whose domed ceiling has been painted with the most gorgeous fresco of cherubs – it’s similar to Michelangelo’s painting The Creation of Adam, which decorates the Sistine Chapel. The whole place feels like an art gallery, really. I couldn’t wrap my head around the fact that people actually live there, but they do. The family is very involved in ensuring the house and its heritage remain standing strong.

Flouncing around the house, through the rooms, and then eventually into the cold and dark night definitely made me feel like I was Cathy after she had married Edgar Linton. Castle Howard has all the opulence of Thrushcross Grange, and it was easy to slip into the role of the new wife enjoying her surroundings. Heading out to see the stars, with the house behind me, had my heart racing, as though I could really see Heathcliff across the moors at Wuthering Heights.

If you want to really live in the kind of luxury that the Earnshaws did (without the madness and rooms where the wallpaper is modelled after Margot Robbie’s skin), the Saltmoore Hotel and Spa is the place to go. Just slightly removed from the touristy bustle of Whitby, the hotel is extremely peaceful. My room was a huge and managed to fit in a double bed, a giant shower (with underfloor heating) and two incredibly comfortable armchairs where you can sit and you listen out for ghosts at the window.

Additionally, the staff couldn’t be more helpful. They even lend you wellies for a walk along the beach. Fingers crossed the next time I go, I’ll be better prepared. And best believe, I will be back. For costume drama fans, there really is nowhere better to be.

Book it

Rose can be booked for walking tours of Whitby via her website.

You can find out more on visitengland.com and visitnorthyorkshire.com. Rooms at the Saltmoore Hotel and Spa start from £311 a night, based on two adults sharing.

Rooms at Saltmoore Hotel and Spa start at £236.

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The unassuming market town in a corner of Herefordshire where Gloucestershire meets Wales was the inspiration behind Britain’s first ever travel guide

It’s an unassuming market town, nestled in the crook where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border.

I’d never have guessed that Ross-On-Wye is the birthplace of British tourism, and THE holiday destination of the late 18th and early 19th century. Nevertheless, given there is some suggestion we are experiencing a revival of romanticism (think Wuthering Heights and Bridgerton rather than the latest rom-com), it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s a surge of soul-seekers retracing the steps of their forbears across the UK’s most beloved natural spaces.

And what better way to explore Ross-on-Wye for myself than from the Hope & Anchor. Located right on the edge of the River Wye, it was just outside this inn that the boats would set off on their tour. So it seemed like the perfect place for my toddler and I to stop for the night as part of a trip organised by Visit Herefordshire.

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Before we checked in for the night, we set off to explore a town peculiarly located on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean, less than 10 miles from the Welsh border, and six miles from Gloucestershire.

Stepping onto the streets of Ross-on-Wye, it doesn’t take a great imagination to be transported through time and see what inspired the Reverend William Gilpin to write Britain’s first ever travel guide. Published in 1782, Observations on the River Wye centres on a boat tour he took down the River Wye from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow. The words of the pioneer of the “picturesque” adventure were so captivating that mimicking his journey soon became the fashionable thing to do – especially during the Napoleonic Wars, when taking part in the Grand Tour across continental Europe became impossible.

As market towns go, Ross-on-Wye is a fairly well-sized one, with a population of around 11,000 according to the 2021 census. However, 250 years after it was first made famous, it still carries an old-world charm, littered with stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and cute little independent shops where you can while away the afternoon browsing.

After working up an appetite, taking in the street scenes surrounding the prominent Market House building in the town centre, we trekked towards the High Street looking for Truffles Deli, which Visit Herefordshire had suggested we nab a quick bite from. Unfortunately, the highly-rated eatery promising delicious sandwiches, soups and cakes is closed on Sundays. Instead we followed directions on a chalkboard pointing us towards Maggie’s Place a few doors down.

Cosy and inviting, incense wafted through the interior as we stepped inside, admiring the open beams and brickwork. The café – which also welcomes four-legged friends – has only been open a number of months, and the owners have just started introducing a more expansive menu, including sandwiches and cakes.

“We’re trying to be completely locally sourced”, the owner tells me, saying the ham in the mouth-watering sandwich I bite into is from the delicatessen around the corner. He says they are working on bringing in crisps made nearby, and the bread has been locally made too.

And if the taste is anything to go by, lunch is terribly under-priced. I cannot get enough of the garlic spread in my ham sandwich, offering a smooth and creamy edge. I’m secretly grateful that my toddler is only interested in the packet of crisps I bought to share.

But the thing that impressed me most about Maggie’s is the coffee. I’m not exactly a coffee snob – my mornings start with instant – but if I’m buying a coffee, I do have certain standards. The owner serves me a Café Au Lait – his version of a flat white – and it’s the first coffee I have bought out in at least two years that I haven’t had to add sugar to. Rich, smooth, and bitter without the burn, I’ve finished it all too quickly.

After lunch, we take a wander up the hill towards The Royal Hotel. Some 200 years ago, this is where we would be staying before embarking on our boat trip as per Gilpin’s guidebook. And it’s easy to see why – the massive historic inn stands proudly above the town, boasting commanding views of the River Wye set to take your breath away.

Built on the foundations of a 13th-century Bishop’s Palace, the Greene King hotel has 42 bedrooms and can host weddings. But for now, we just admire the views before heading around the corner to The Prospect.

Nestled in the pleasure garden at the back of the graveyard of St Mary’s Church, the Prospect was laid out around 1700 by John Kyrle – also known as the ‘Man of Ross’. From here, you can see the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and as far west as the Black Mountains.

Settling in for the night

If you look directly down from The Prospect, you can see the Hope & Anchor, just a small car park’s width from the water’s edge. Recent rainfall has seen the River Wye swell, pushing against its banks and saturating the paths and borders.

We check into our room for the night, a stunning ensuite with an impressive chandelier-type lighting, which captivates my little girl even more than the cartoons on the television. A little love seat adds a romantic touch to the room, which has gorgeous views of the river. I’d love to come back in the warmer months. After settling in, we wander downstairs to the dining room.

While it appears to be a cosy, neat, and rather unassuming little pub, there is nothing ordinary about what you put in your mouth at the Hope & Anchor. Even the wine I ordered for myself as a little holiday treat far exceeded expectations. I asked for a medium glass of red wine – and instead experienced a blast of rich, powerful flavours echoing with plum and black fruits with a woody finish (Vina Cerrada Rioja, £5.5 a small glass).

I ordered from the specials menu to start – whipped camembert brulee (£8) served on a bed of fig chutney, toasted sourdough and topped with hazelnut and apple. If you’re a fan of Camembert, this is not something to be missed. The tartness of the chutney offset the creamy richness of the cheese, topped with the satisfying crunch of the hazelnuts and apple sprinkled on top. The chutney lent an earthy flavour, and the whipped texture of the camembert offered a delightful change to both its cold and melted states.

This was followed by the garlic-and-thyme-roasted supreme of chicken (£19.50). Out of the kitchen came a massive, steaming plate of a roast dinner, served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, braised red cabbage puree, glazed parsnips, roasted heritage carrots, herb and apricot stuffing, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding and red wine gravy. I even had a generous bowl of cauliflower cheese on the side.

Now, as everyone knows, the true test of a roast dinner is in its potatoes. After all, no one can ever beat your mum’s, right? Although the Hope & Anchor certainly has given her a run for her money. Rather than the rubbery roasties we regularly forgive pubs for, these were perfectly crispy on the outside, and steaming and fluffy on the inside, representing the gold standard all roast potatoes aim for.

Partnered with beautifully sweet roasted vegetables, offset with the leafy seasonal greens, and one of the biggest Yorkshire puddings I’ve ever seen on a plate, there was no way I was going to finish the meal. The cauliflower cheese also made the perfect addition, not too cheesy, not too creamy, but just perfectly balanced and toasted on top. I couldn’t resist a second helping despite my groaning stomach.

Even the chicken nuggets and chips served with baked beans to my daughter were artistry on a plate. Succulent and juicy chunks of battered chicken served with crisp, hand-cut chips, I regretted not having room to help her finish them.

But what made the meal so truly special is how well we were looked after and attended to. From the forgiving fellow guests who stole smiles from my little girl to the attentive staff, it was a warm and welcoming atmosphere. I was particularly taken with the way staff overlooked the fact that my little gremlin left most of her meal and was more taken with licking tomato ketchup off a spoon. But then again, she is two, and clearly has no taste.

Gilpin’s footsteps

After a restful night, we popped into the neighbouring café for breakfast, eager to stock up for what I hoped would be another active morning. The Pavilion, which is also part of the Hope & Anchor, is a bright, welcome space with a chic, timeless interior.

It was the perfect setting to tuck into my eggs Royale for breakfast – and yes, the yolk was delightfully gooey with a delicious crunch from the toasted muffin.

We then made our way to the river’s edge, determined to follow in Gilpin’s footsteps despite the swollen Wye and saturated paths. I downloaded the Museum Without Walls App – Ross-on-Wye’s virtual museum, which uses AR (augmented reality) to impose pictures showing what a particular location would look like in days gone by. I point the app at the sign just outside the Hope & Anchor, and in an instant I can see the boats from days gone by preparing to set sail down the Wye towards Chepstow.

With determination, we set off, with every intention to at least reach where Wilton Bridge crosses the river some half a mile away, despite my daughter’s insistence on making friends with a couple of rather tame swans, and an alarming game of chase which took her frighteningly close to the swollen banks of the fast-flowing river.

Unfortunately, the path was simply too waterlogged to get even that far. Instead, we turned on our heels, considering taking a stop in the popular Riverside Inn in Wye Street as part of our return. This was the only downside of our trip – but one which sadly could not be helped.

Hopefully, next time, my companion will have long enough legs to make the journey on her own feet, too, perhaps when the weather is slightly less boggy.

What you need to know

• The Hope & Anchor offers lunch and dinner options as well as overnight stays, while next door, The Pavilion restaurant and bar offers breakfast and cocktail masterclasses. There is also The Hut on the river’s edge, serving cakes, hot drinks and ice creams for those on the go. A one-night stay at the Hope & Anchor costs from £90 based on two sharing on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Find out more or book your visit here.
• Find out more about Ross-on-Wye on the Visit Herefordshire website.
• Follow Gilpin’s Wye Boat Tour by downloading the Museum Without Walls App here
• Maggie’s Place at 24 High Street is open 10.30am-4.30pm Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and from 12.30pm to 4.30pm on Sundays. Find out more here.
• The Royal Hotel is open all year round with breakfast served between 7am and 11am Monday to Friday and 8am to 12pm on weekends. You can also eat in the evening until 9pm. It’s also dog-friendly. Find out more here.