springs

On Saturday, Guillermo del Toro revealed that his older brother, Federico del Toro Gómez, had died last week.

The “Pan’s Labyrinth” director shared the news while receiving the Visionary Award at the Palm Springs International Film Awards alongside Oscar Isaac, Jacob Elordi and Mia Goth — the stars of his latest project, “Frankenstein.”

“I’ve come to believe that everybody’s born with one or two songs to sing,” Del Toro told the crowd at the Palm Springs Convention Center. “That’s it, and we keep repeating them and repeating them until we get them sort of right. And Frankenstein was the song I was born to sing.”

Del Toro spoke of his brother when touching on his recent film’s themes of fatherhood, forgiving and being forgiven.

“Three days ago, I lost my older brother, but I’m here because the film speaks about a condition that is purely human, that is proved by the final phase in the film, which says the heart may break and the broken live on,” he said. “Even a broken heart pumps the blood and keeps you going.”

The 61-year-old filmmaker would go on to note that there were several occasions when he and his brother played out the dynamics of Victor Frankenstein and the Creature in their own lives, and that they “granted each other love and granted each other peace” many years ago.

Del Toro did not share any details regarding his brother’s death and said that he may take time off during awards season due to his family’s loss.

“I may be absent at a few functions this [awards] season, but not this one,” he said. “I’m here because [the cast and crew of ‘Frankenstein’] is family. Life gives you a family on the way.”

The governor of Del Toro’s home state of Jalisco, Pablo Lemus Navarro, shared a message on X about the elder Del Toro’s death.

“I send my condolences to the Jalisco filmmaker @RealGDT
for the passing of his brother, Federico del Toro Gómez,” Lemus Navarro wrote. “To his family and loved ones, I hope that they soon find consolation. From the bottom of my heart, I’m sending a warm and strong hug. Rest in peace.”

The director’s alma mater, the University of Guadalajara, also paid their respects to Federico on X.

“We lament the passing of Federico del Toro Gómez, brother of Guillermo del Toro, the Tapatío filmmaker and alumnus of our academic institution,” the post read. “We extend our condolences to his family and friends. Rest in peace.”

Elsewhere in his speech, the Oscar-winning director spoke of the importance of believing in and making art in deeply political times.

“At a time when people tell you art is not important, that is always the prelude to fascism,” Del Toro said. “When they tell you it doesn’t matter, when they tell you a f— app can do art, if it’s that easy, that unimportant, why the f— do they want it so bad? The answer is because they think they can debase everything that makes us a little better, a little more human.”

Political realities were also front and center at the awards show during Leonardo DiCaprio’s acceptance speech for his performance in “One Battle After Another.”

The 51-year-old actor was forced to accept his award via Zoom call because he was unable to leave the Caribbean island St. Barts due to air restrictions in the area after U.S. forces captured Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro and amid the increasingly turbulent political situation in Venezuela.

“Leonardo DiCaprio is unable to join us in person tonight due to unexpected travel disruptions and restricted airspace,” a spokesperson for the Palm Springs International Film Festival told Variety. “While we will miss celebrating with him in person, we are honored to recognize his exceptional work and lasting contributions to cinema. His talent and dedication to the craft continue to inspire, and we are delighted to celebrate him with the Desert Palm Achievement Award this evening.”

The water bubbles up hot from the earth and sunlight filters down through the branches of mighty oaks.

But before you can soak in Santa Barbara County’s highly popular Montecito Hot Springs, you’ll need to hike a little over a mile uphill, threading your way among boulders, oaks and a meandering creek. And before the hike, there are two other crucial steps: getting to the trailhead and knowing what to expect.

The trail to Montecito Hot Springs.

These rustic spring pools are about 95 miles northwest of L.A. City Hall, just upslope from well-to-do Montecito, whose residents include Oprah Winfrey, Prince Harry and his wife, Meghan Markle, and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Though the trail and hot springs are part of Los Padres National Forest, the trailhead is in a residential neighborhood of gated mansions. Beyond the trailhead parking area (which has room for eight or nine cars), the neighborhood includes very little curbside parking. After visitation surged during the pandemic, some neighbors were accused by county officials of placing boulders to obstruct public parking. Parking options were reduced further when county officials added parking restrictions earlier this year.

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Bottom line: Unless you can arrive on a weekday between 8 and 10 a.m., you’re probably better off taking a rideshare service to get there. Whenever you arrive, you’re likely to have company. And you might want to wait until the landscape dries out a bit from the rains of recent weeks.

As Los Padres National Forest spokesman Andrew Madsen warned, “the foothills of Santa Barbara are especially fragile and hiking is especially precarious in the aftermath of heavy rains.”

All that said, the hike is rewarding and free. From the Hot Springs Canyon trailhead at East Mountain Drive and Riven Rock Road, it’s a 2.5-mile out-and-back trail to the hot springs, with about 800 feet of altitude gain on the way.

Arriving at 10 a.m. on a Tuesday, I got the last parking spot at the trailhead, stepped past the signs forbidding parking before 8 a.m. or after sunset, then stepped past another sign warning that “this is a challenging and rugged hike.” Also, there are no bathrooms or trash cans on the trail or at the springs.

“It’s important that people know what’s going on up there before they show up,” said Madsen. “It’s not all that glamorous.”

Even though it’s only 1.2 or 1.3 miles to the hot springs, plan on about an hour of uphill hiking. Once you’re above the residential lots, you’ll see pipes along the way, carrying water down the hill, along with occasional trailside poison oak. As you near the pools, you’ll pick up the scent of sulfur and notice the water turning a strange bluish hue. Then the trail jumps across the creek — which I initially missed.

But there was a silver lining. That detour gave me a chance to admire the stone ruins of a hotel that was built next to the springs in 1870s. After a fire, it became a private club. Then it burned in the Coyote fire of 1964, which blackened more than 65,000 acres, destroyed more than 90 homes and killed a firefighter. The hot springs and surrounding land have been part of Los Padres National Forest since 2013.

Hikers look west from the ruins near Montecito Hot Springs.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

On a clear day with the sun in the right place, you can stand among the overgrown ruins, look west and see the ocean, a few old oil platforms and the long, low silhouette of Santa Cruz Island. This is what the native Chumash would have seen (minus the oil platforms) through the many years they used the springs before European immigrants arrived.

Pleasant as that view was, I was ready to soak, as were the two couples who got momentarily lost with me. (We were all Montecito Hot Springs rookies.) Once we’d retraced our steps to the creek and crossed it, the trail took us quickly past a hand-lettered CLOTHING OPTIONAL sign to a series of spring-fed pools of varying temperatures.

A dozen people were already lazing in and around the uppermost pools (one woman topless, one man bottomless), but several pools remained empty. I took one that was about 2 feet deep and perhaps 90 degrees. In one pool near me sat Ryan Binter, 30, and Kyra Rubinstein, 26, both from Wichita, Kan.

Hikers Ryan Binter and Kyra Rubinstein, visiting from Wichita, Kan., soak at Montecito Hot Springs.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

“She found this,” said Binter, praising Rubinstein’s internet search savvy.

At the next pool were Emanuel Leon, 20, of Carpinteria, Calif., and Evelyn Torres, 19, of Santa Barbara. The last time they’d tried this hike, they’d strayed off-track and missed the hot springs, so this time, they were savoring the scene.

“Revenge!” said Leon, settling in.

The soaking was so mellow, quiet and unhurried that I was surprised to learn that the pools were not erected legally. As Madsen of the Los Padres National Forest explained later by phone, they were “created by the trail gnomes” — hikers arranging rocks themselves to adjust water flow and temperature, with no government entities involved.

Legal or not, they made a nice reward after the hike uphill. The downhill hike out was easier and quicker, of course, but still tricky because of the rocks and twisting trail.

On your way out of Montecito, especially if it’s your first time, take a good look at the adobe-style grandeur of the Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Catholic Church building, which looks like it was smuggled into California from Santa Fe. For food and drink, head to Coast Village Road (the community’s main drag) or the Montecito Village Shopping Center on East Valley Road. Those shops and restaurants may not match the wonder and comfort of a natural bath in the woods, but for civilization, they’re not bad.