Rome

A worker who was trapped after part of a medieval tower collapsed in the heart of Rome, has died, according to hospital officials.

Octay Stroici was pulled free at 23:00 local time (22:00 GMT), nearly twelve hours after a section of the Torre dei Conti, on the edge of the famous Roman Forum and close to the Colosseum, gave way and trapped him beneath.

His heart stopped in the ambulance, and doctors at the hospital he was rushed to were unable to save him.

The Romanian foreign ministry said Stroici was a Romanian national, as was another worker among three others pulled from the rubble. One is said to be in a critical condition.

Stroici’s rescue was initially described as an exceptional feat by firefighters who had worked late into the night. Rescue teams used drones and rubble clearers to try to reach him, despite the risk that the fragile tower could collapse further.

He had been conscious and talking to the emergency workers throughout the rescue. His wife was also at the scene.

Stroici had been carrying out conservation work on the medieval tower which is part of the Roman Forum, one of this city’s busiest tourist sites. But this particular building had been empty and abandoned for many years.

The Rome Prosecutor’s Office has opened an investigation into the incident.

Efforts to rescue Stroici – reported to be in his 60s – were interrupted when a second section of the 29m (90ft) high tower began crumbling again, with bricks raining down, creating a huge cloud of dust.

Earlier, Rome prefect Lamberto Giannini had described it as a “very complex situation”. Giannini said that after the initial collapse firefighters had “put up some protection” around the trapped man, so when the second collapse happened, “they obviously shielded him”.

He added that the rescue was a long operation due to having to “mitigate…the enormous risks faced by the people trying to carry out the rescue”.

One firefighter was taken to hospital with an eye problem, according to local media, but the rest were unharmed, eventually resuming their search for the man.

A police chief said there was no imminent danger that the tower will disintegrate.

“My thoughts and deepest sympathies go out to the person currently fighting for his life beneath the rubble, and to his family, for whom I sincerely hope that this tragedy finds a positive outcome,” wrote Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni on X before the rescue was complete.

Another worker, 67-year-old Ottaviano, who was inside at the time of the collapse but escaped from a balcony uninjured, told the AFP news agency: “It was not safe. I just want to go home.”

Rome’s mayor and Italy’s culture minister visited the scene.

The 13th Century tower is part of the Roman Forum, a major tourist attraction in the centre of Rome, but it is separated from the main visitors’ area by a road. The streets all around have been taped off by police as a precaution.

The medieval tower was built by Pope Innocent III as a residence for his brother.

Video shows part of Rome’s medieval Torre dei Conti collapse for a second time during a restoration near the Colosseum. One seriously injured worker remained trapped Monday evening with firefighters continuing a high-risk rescue as the tower’s stability is assessed.

One overlooked Italian city with a “unique spirit” stood out as a favourite to a seasoned travel writer who’s been to Florence, Venice, Rome and several more cities in Italy.

A traveller who’s visited nine Italian cities has proclaimed one in particular is his favourite – and it’s not such a well-known destination. Being less touristy is all part of the appeal of this continental city and the “unique spirit” of the place was what made it really special, along with the exceptional Italian food.

Journalist Adam Miller detailed his visit to this stunning city, describing the experience as being “worlds away” from a stay in Rome or Venice.

The writer had already been to “Florence, Rome, Venice, Milan, Verona, Siena, Lucca, Pisa, and Bergamo” which he loved, but then he discovered a new city that’s become a firm favourite.

Travelling to the city of Bologna in Italy for the first time (in August 2025), Adam was enchanted by the liveliness, the terracotta buildings and “the best food” he’d “ever eaten”.

Writing for the Metro Travel Hot Takes, Adam described Bologna: “The real magic of Bologna is in its simplicity. Everything feels so calm and easy. Eating, drinking, exploring – it all feels effortless compared to Florence, Venice, or Rome.

“I can’t imagine staying anywhere else in Italy for a city break now, especially when the Italian train service is so cheap and efficient. Florence is close, Venice is only 70 minutes away, and tickets can be as cheap as £13, so it also makes a great detour destination.”

Adam describes the bustling city, but explained it was miles apart from the atmosphere of a weekend night out in the UK; he said the energy of Bologna was “unique” and that it had become his “favourite” Italian city.

TripAdvisor reviewers who have also visited the city of Bologna rate the church, Santuario di Madonna di San Luca as a must-visit, describing it as a “unique experience” and having fantastic views from the site.

One visitor reviewing the church on TripAdvisor wrote: “Very suggestive place on the hills of Bologna, which can be reached through a not too strenuous walk under long porches, possibly starting from the monumental cemetery of the Certosa (equally suggestive place, which I absolutely recommend to visit).

“The arcades are well maintained and the same applies to the area in front of the sanctuary; the view, once arrived, is magnificent.”

Another visitor to the Santuario di Madonna di San Luca wrote: “It is a beautiful Baroque basilica perfectly maintained both inside and outside. It is located in the hills which allows you to enjoy a beautiful view of the city and the surrounding hills.

“You can reach it by taxi, with the train that leaves from Piazza Maggiore but the most exciting experience is to do it on foot by climbing for about 4km, about 500 steps, under the longest porch in the world that starts from the city centre – not to be missed.”

Other top-rated Bologna visitor experiences according to TripAdvisor include the square in the heart of the city, Piazza Maggiore and observation deck, Le Due Torri Torre degli Asinelli for its far-reaching views.

The Porticoes of Bologna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is also described as unforgettable for its stunning Bolognese architecture of red-stone columns and magnificent arches.

Our writer Abby Wells soaks up the culture on a wonderful weekend in the Italian capital, featuring incredible history, authentic cuisine and top tourist attractions

Having never been to Italy before, I was very excited to see what its capital city had to offer – and it certainly didn’t disappoint. After leaving rainy England and landing in Rome’s significantly sunnier weather just over two hours later, I was immediately smitten with the architecture, the people, the food and the history.

Where to stay in Rome

I arrived at the Grand Hotel Palace Rome in the centre of the city in the heat of the afternoon sun as I was visiting back in the summer. Walking into the cool reception, with its calm and inviting decor, was a refreshing welcome.

Restored in 2010, this boutique hotel now blends timeless Italian design with 21st-century modernity – think marble floors, huge chandeliers and stunning frescoes. Despite having 74 bedrooms and 12 luxurious suites, it has an intimate feel.

My superior room was spacious and decorated in pastel hues. It had impressive city views and was a real haven away from the hustle and bustle of the crowds outside.

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What to do in Rome

This city is best explored on foot, so comfy shoes are a suitcase essential. The grand architecture is guaranteed to impress as you wander around with your gelato.

Our hotel was a stone’s throw from the gorgeous Villa Borghese, Rome’s largest park, which has landscaped gardens, sculptures and fountains, a zoo and even a replica of London’s Globe Theatre. I recommend heading to the Pincio terrace, which offers panoramic views of the city, including the famous domed roof of Saint Peter’s Basilica in the distance.

The Spanish Steps are a 10-minute walk from the hotel and although it was very busy here with tourists, I managed to find the perfect spot to sit and people watch – Babington’s tea rooms, which dates back to 1893 and is a must for tea lovers.

You can’t go to Rome and not visit Trevi Fountain. Tradition says that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you will return to the city. Already keen to visit again, I joined in.

What really struck me was how big it was. Measuring 26 metres high, it’s the biggest fountain in Rome, and undoubtedly the most magnificent. You need to join the queuing system to get close to the fountain, but this did move very quickly when I went at 9am.

Visiting the Colosseum is another must and I highly recommend booking a guided tour. My guide, Max, was extremely knowledgeable but also managed to add some humour. It was amazing seeing the huge arena where gladiators used to fight in front of thousands of people. Be sure to pre-book and get there in plenty of time, as getting through security takes a while.

After a long day of sightseeing, you can treat your tired feet to a pamper at Grand Hotel Palace’s Fusion Spa, an Asian-inspired oasis with a sauna, indoor heated saltwater pool and relaxation areas, plus a choice of indulgent treatments.

Where to eat in Rome

You’re spoilt for choice for places to eat in Rome. On every street there are lovely little tabernas strewn with fairy lights, pizzerias or shops serving gelato in every flavour imaginable.

On my first night I enjoyed the tasting menu at Grand Hotel Palace’s Ristorante Cadorin. I feasted on four courses, but the best was saved for last – the tiramisu was heavenly. I went to bed very happy with a full stomach. The hotel breakfast was buffet-style, with optional extras available to order.

If you’re looking for a traditional Italian restaurant, I recommend Checco Er Carettiere in an area called Trastevere. Tucked away down a side street, it’s family-run, serves authentic Roman dishes and has a pretty courtyard out the back. My pasta dish was just as you’d expect: utterly delicious.

If you’re a fan of fish, Il San Lorenzo is worth a visit. This sleek restaurant is reputed to offer the best seafood restaurant in Rome. If you do find yourself eating your body weight in pizza and pasta, don’t worry, as you’ll soon walk it off exploring this amazing ancient city.

How much does it cost?

Rooms at Grand Hotel Palace Rome start from £330 per night.

For alternative hotel options in Rome, browse on holiday booking sites such as Booking.com and Expedia.

ROME — Pope Leo XIV urged labor union leaders from Chicago on Thursday to advocate for immigrants and welcome minorities into their ranks, weighing in as the Trump administration crackdown on immigrants intensifies in the pontiff’s hometown.

“While recognizing that appropriate policies are necessary to keep communities safe, I encourage you to continue to advocate for society to respect the human dignity of the most vulnerable,” Leo said.

The audience was scheduled before the deployment of National Guard troops to protect federal property in the Chicago area, including a U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement building that has been the site of occasional clashes between protesters and federal agents.

Chicago Cardinal Blase Cupich, who accompanied the labor leaders, said that Leo was well aware of the situation on the ground. In an interview with the Associated Press, Cupich said Leo has made clear, including in recent comments, that migrants and the poor must be treated in ways that respect their human dignity.

“I really didn’t have to tell him much at all, because he seemed to have a handle on what was going on,” Cupich told the AP afterward.

He said that Leo had urged U.S. bishops in particular to “speak with one voice” on the issue. Cupich said he expected the November meeting of the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops would make immigration a top agenda item.

“This has to be front and center right now. This is the issue of the day. And we can’t dance around it,” Cupich said.

Catholic leaders in the U.S. have denounced the Trump administration’s crackdown, which has split up families and incited fears that people could be rounded up and deported any time. The administration has defended the crackdown as safeguarding public safety and national security.

Leo “wants us to make sure, as bishops, that we speak out on behalf of the undocumented or anybody who’s vulnerable to preserve their dignity,” Cupich said. “We all have to remember that we all share a common dignity as human beings.”

Cupich said he was heartened by Leo’s remarks last week, in which the pope defended the cardinal’s decision to honor Illinois Sen. Dick Durbin for his work helping immigrants. The plans drew objection from some conservative U.S. bishops given the powerful Democratic senator’s support for abortion rights, and he ultimately declined the award.

It was the second meeting in as many days that history’s first American pope has heard firsthand from a U.S. bishop on the front lines of the migration crackdown. On Wednesday, El Paso Bishop Mark Seitz brought Leo letters from desperate immigrant families.

Cupich was in Rome for Vatican meetings and to also accompany a group of Chicago schoolchildren who got a special greeting from Leo during his Wednesday general audience. The kids had staged their own “mock conclave” in school this past spring, and footage of their deliberations went viral online as the real conclave unfolded in Rome. They arrived at the audience Wednesday dressed as cardinals, Swiss Guards and the pope himself.

Winfield writes for the Associated Press.

Rome Ramirez wasn’t built in a day.

He was once a guitar-strumming, teenage Sublime fan in a Mexican American household in Fremont, Calif. At 18, he moved to Los Angeles to follow his dream of making music. He swept floors, lived in his van and eventually did the impossible: He became the singer of his favorite band.

In 2009, 13 years after the death of Sublime’s founding singer-songwriter Bradley Nowell, Rome befriended Sublime’s remaining members, Bud Gaugh and Eric Wilson, and became the frontman of Sublime with Rome — playing to an established fan base in amphitheaters around the world. Behind the scenes, Rome developed a robust songwriting career of his own, cutting his teeth in the studio-session culture in L.A. and racking up credits on Enrique Iglesias and Selena Gomez songs.

Yet eventually, the band started to feel more like a job than a calling. After several lineup changes, Sublime with Rome embarked on its farewell tour in 2024. “For the majority of being in Sublime, our recording schedule was so busy,” he says. “I knew that in order to do a solo career, it takes everything from you if you want to do it right, so that was not on the mind.”

Despite being a lifelong California boy, Rome moved his family to Nashville during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. There are perks to living in America’s songwriting capital — like a slower pace of life and the ability to do “more errands per day than in L.A.,” he says with a laugh. But now, he says that he and his children are some of the only Latinos in their neighborhood.

“There [are] a lot of people who leave California,” says Rome. “They trash-talk California, but it’s just such a huge part of my identity and culture — growing up as a Mexican American in California, that Chicano culture. I will always love Los Angeles.”

After 15 years in Sublime with Rome, the 37-year-old has forged a new path as a solo artist. His sound is a West Coast cocktail of beachy reggae and hip hop-inspired grooves, specially made for summertime — like his new single “Slow & Easy,” featuring the Dirty Heads, his friends from back when he slept in his van.

It’s the first offering from his debut EP, “Gemini” — “It’s about the duality of my music, I can’t be put into a box,” he says — which is set for a Sept. 19 release. He’s also announced a slate of tour dates in the U.S., starting Sept. 17 in Destin, Fla.

This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

Your solo career was kick-started by stepping down as the lead singer of Sublime with Rome. Was having a solo career something you had in your head for a while?
Through the course of touring with Sublime, I was really heavily involved in songwriting. I was doing all kinds of records for people I really looked up to — like Selena Gomez and Jason Derulo and Enrique Iglesias. Huge names. As a kid who grew up writing songs in his mom’s basement, this was just like a dream come true.

It wasn’t until the pandemic happened where for the first time Sublime with Rome wasn’t touring, we were at home and I started live-streaming. People were showing up in these rooms — like 500 to a thousand people. I was one of the first people in my music community who was already outfitted with cameras, ready to go in the studio. I would start with a Sublime album and go through every song on the stream. And then the next album, then the Sublime with Rome album, then I would do covers. After about like six months, I ran out of songs and people were just asking like, “Dude, do you have any music? Like, are you working on anything?” And honestly, I hadn’t worked on music for myself in so long.

I think part of that was not wanting to dig deep into traumas, [like] growing up in a household with drugs. But during the pandemic, I had time to start writing music again for fun — playing with sounds that I loved and grew up on, and starting to pull the scabs off of [wounds] that I tucked [away] in the past. After a while I had a handful of songs, and I just knew I [couldn’t] put them in the Sublime with Rome set. This thing I love to do started to feel like a job, and that is a no-go. So I asked myself, “Am I going to do Sublime with Rome for money, or am I going to really follow something that I believe in?”

We started having conversations about what the future of the band was looking like prior to our summer tour in 2023. I’m really glad that everything happened the way it did. We had a roll out for everything. I needed to trust my gut and follow through with my belief in this music and what I’m building.

“Lay Me Down” with Dirty Heads is one of your biggest songs, with nearly 120 million Spotify plays, but it came out in 2010 — much earlier than your current venture in your solo career. What’s the story behind this song?
I’m from the Bay Area, but I moved down to Los Angeles when I was 18 to go make something of myself. I was hanging around this recording studio that the Dirty Heads were just getting started at.

I was just interning, sweeping floors, [eating] cheeseburgers, that kind of thing. Everyone knew that I could write a song, and eventually, after hanging out there for so long, me and the Dirty Heads worked up a friendship. They said, “Let’s get together and write a song one day.”

So we barbecued some hot dogs and just hung out in one of the guys’ backyard with a couple of guitars on a picnic bench … and we wrote “Lay Me Down.” The song sat around for a year, but we really liked it.

They were going on tour in the van and I wasn’t doing anything — I was homeless at the time, Sublime wasn’t even a thought. They offered me to go on the road with them, so I did and played that one song with them. From there, our manager took the demo to KROQ. The song started getting played on the radio and the shows got fuller. It was such an amazing experience. It was just just by the grace of God, it like all worked out and our lives changed from that point. We cashed our first checks and bought our first cars together from that.

You collaborated with the Dirty Heads again on your recent single “Slow and Easy.” It’s your first single since you’ve gone solo. What was that process like?
It’s come full circle with my best friends again. I knew this song was special. I went into the studio with the aim of — “I want to make a summer song that feels like a Van Morrison record, but [an] Uncle Kracker [vibe]. Real simple.”

I went in with my boy, Nick Bailey, who I write a lot of music with, and we nailed that song in two hours. After I got the demo I was like, “Man, it’s so close. What if I put the Dirty Heads on it? [With] a little rap and a little melody, it would just be so different.”

They loved it. They sent me their vocals the next week and I was like, “OK, I feel like this is a good song.” Eventually some awesome promoters at radio stations heard it and they wanted to take a chance on the record.

The summer vibes are strong on “Lay Me Down” and “Slow and Easy.” What artists introduced you to this sound that’s present in everything you do?
I grew up on Motown and Bob Marley. That’s what I circled back to after I left Sublime.

As I was working on music during the pandemic, I was like, “What do I want to hear? What’s the shit that I like?” And it’s like Stevie Wonder, it’s the Supremes, it’s the Four Tops, it’s Fiona Apple, it’s Leon Bridges, it’s Van Morrison. I really like feel-good music that sonically reminds me of an older time.

I have kids now, so I’m very conscious about the message I put into the world. I’ll try to write a song that the world could benefit from hearing, but not make it a preachy song.

How would you describe the sound of Rome?
The underlying factor is soul music. When you hear soul music, you think of Teddy Pendergrass and things like that. I love soul music. [Take] Bradley’s voice in Sublime, you cannot tell me that that man wasn’t a soul singer.

That’s the music that I really gravitate to, music that just feels really honest. Reggae music [lives] in me. Jack Johnson is another huge influence. My sound is reggae and soul and pop music, for lack of better words, because I write simple-ass songs.

How do you feel like your Mexican heritage makes its way into your music? Or in how you move and how you present yourself?
Growing up Mexican shaped my whole framework for how I live my life. I don’t speak Spanish, but I grew up in two households that were fully fluent in Spanish. All my friends growing up were Mexican. [I remember] seeing Carlos Santana playing with Rob Thomas on [television] and my dad was like, “He’s mexicano right there.” Man, that was pretty sick.

Growing up in a really thick Mexican culture [meant] both my parents worked their ass off, but at the same time, family always came first. These are the kind of morals that are really instilled in Mexican culture, that I’m so proud that I have. As a family man now, those things are so prominent in my life. We take a lot of pride in what we do, we work our asses off … then when it’s time to play, we play.

What makes a good summer song?
Something that you don’t have to try too hard to listen to. There are some songs where you’re like, “All right, I need to get in the car and drive and listen to this thing, ride it out the gate.” When I envision a summer song, it’s very simple and easy to play.

People online are debating what the song of the summer is in 2025. What has been your song of the summer?
In terms of listening and all the damn content I’ve been making, it’s “Slow and Easy!” But aside from one of my own songs, probably “Golden” from “KPop Demon Hunters” because that’s what my kids are spinning. The music is shockingly good. It’s like Max Martin s—.

You’re on quite a big U.S. tour. How is it going?
It’s so sick. We just rolled out a couple dates in Florida just to test the waters and those shows are selling really good, so promoters have been adding more and more.

I’ve been to so many of these places [with Sublime], of course, but the energy’s different. I’m playing smaller spots, [connecting] with people before and after the shows. You can’t really do that in amphitheaters. I’m experiencing everything in reverse. I was homeless when I met Sublime and then I was on the tour bus. Now, it’s like we’re climbing up the ranks again.

I have such a long lineage of songs I’ve been working on and the fan base — shout out to the Romies — who’ve followed me over the years. Putting together the set list has been a celebration of the different eras of my life. I’m just having a lot of fun doing this.

It is renowned for its Roman ruins and medieval architecture, and is often described as a ‘mini Rome’ without the bustling crowds

A stunning town famed for its Roman remains and medieval structures resembles a “mini Rome” but without the masses of tourists. Gubbio, a delightful town nestled in Italy’s lush Umbria region, whisks visitors back through the centuries. This ancient settlement is acknowledged as one of Italy’s largest and best-preserved medieval towns.

Tracing its roots back to 1000 AD, it occupies a crucial place in the country’s heritage and boasts historic landmarks alongside a fascinating past. Despite being Umbria’s oldest town, Gubbio remains extraordinarily well-maintained.

Tourists can witness structures that have endured for centuries, perhaps even millennia, scattered throughout the settlement.

Indeed, a Roman theatre stands here, constructed around 20BC, which ranked as the second largest in the Roman Empire under Emperor Augustus’ rule, reports the Express.

The remnants of Gubbio’s Roman Theatre remain visible on the town’s periphery.

Essential sights include the Palazzo dei Consoli and the Duomo di Gubbio, which proves immensely popular amongst visitors who have experienced the area.

Travellers can also discover the collections within the Palazzo dei Consoli, featuring artefacts from Gubbio’s past, archaeological discoveries, and artistic treasures.

Since Gubbio lacks the fame of other destinations in Italy’s central regions, holidaymakers can savour exploring its historic attractions without the typical throngs.

This presents a rare chance given Italy’s enormous popularity amongst globetrotters. The picturesque town is a stone’s throw away from central Italy’s hotspots, nestled just an hour’s drive from Perugia and a mere two hours from the Renaissance city of Florence.

Both cities are well-connected, with direct flights available from numerous UK airports and across Europe.

A travel guru has dubbed it a “historic marvel”. Ed Maughan, Managing Director of GroupAccommodation.com, describes the town as a “historic marvel that is brimming with impressive ancient sites” that leave visitors spellbound amidst its serpentine, cobblestone streets.

Adding to the town’s allure is the eerie “bird cage” cable car, known locally as the Funivia. The journey begins at the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo on Monte Ingino, immortalised by Dante in his 11th-century works.

The two-seater cable cars are constantly on the go, so you’ll need to be nimble to hop aboard for the ride down to the town.

Labelled as “unique” by many, the town’s enchanting beauty has captivated travellers.

One TripAdvisor review said: “We were staying at a resort nearby and drove to Gubbio for the day. A small town, but very upscale. Apparently, the wealth is held by a few families. One of them makes cement and has factories around the world. Don’t miss the caged ride to the top for a great view.”

Another user expressed: “Being able to orient myself to Gubbio. Beautiful medieval city. Very informative. Train ran continuously over the course of the day.”

Toasted ham baguettes in hand, we cheered as the new-generation Nightjet drew into Vienna Hauptbahnhof. It was a little before 7pm, and as the carriages hummed past I felt a rush of joy, like celebrity trainspotter Francis Bourgeois, but without the GoPro on my forehead. For more than three years I’ve been documenting the renaissance of sleeper trains, and I’d wondered if I might one day tire of them. But the thrill seems only to intensify each time I embark on another nocturnal adventure, this time with my two daughters – aged eight and five – who were already arguing over the top berth. The first four carriages were designated for travellers to the Italian port city of La Spezia, the other seven carrying on to Roma Tiburtina, where we would alight at 10am. Once in Rome we had 24 hours to eat classic carbonara, dark chocolate gelato, and bike around the Villa Borghese before taking a train to Florence.

Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has played the lead role in resuscitating Europe’s night trains. Towards the end of 2016, ÖBB launched its Nightjet network on 14 routes, using old rolling stock it bought from Deutsche Bahn. Then, to the delight of train nerds like me, it launched a brand-new fleet at the end of 2023, and now operates 20 routes across Europe. We were now on board this high-spec service, which smelled of freshly unpacked furniture, the carpets soft underfoot, the lighting adjustable to disco hues of neon blue and punk pink.

We were booked into a couchette carriage, which mostly comprisesd mini cabins designed for solo travellers preferring privacy. Placing shoes and small bags in lockers, passengers can open a metal door with a keycard and crawl into their single berth, drawing the door closed around them, and not have to look at another human until morning. Last year I had trialled the mini cabins from Vienna to Hamburg alongside a tall friend who had likened the experience to sleeping inside a bread bin, though I hadn’t found it as claustrophobic as I’d feared, just a bit hard, chilly, and with a pillow as flat as a postage stamp. So I was curious to see how the carriage’s four-person private compartments, for families and groups, would differ.

Normally happy to share with strangers, I’d booked a whole compartment for the three of us: more to protect other hapless travellers from my children, who were now swinging off the berths like members of Cirque du Soleil, their sweaty socks strewn under the seats. With raised sides, the upper berths were safe for the girls to sleep in without rolling out, and I set about tucking in their sheets while they settled down to finish their baguettes. There is no dining car on the Nightjet, so we’d bought food from the station, which was now moving backwards as the train sailed out of the Austrian capital in silence, smoothly curving south-west.

Two days earlier we’d arrived in Vienna by train from London, via Paris, and had checked into the Superbude Wien Prater, a curious hotel that appeared part art-installation, part hostel, with gen Zs slouched around worn leather sofas on MacBooks. With four-bed family cabins overlooking the Prater amusement park, it was a great location from which to explore the city, then finish the evening with a terrifying rollercoaster and a spicy Bitzinger wurst. A friend had described Vienna to me as a grand and beautiful “retirement village”, but, on the contrary, its green spaces, playgrounds and museums made it an easy stop for 48 hours with kids.

Hopping off the Nightjet from Paris, we’d gone straight to my favourite restaurant, Edelgreisslerei Opocensky – an unassuming nook serving homely dishes such as stuffed gnocchi, and goulash with dumplings – before whiling away an afternoon at the Children’s Museum at Schönbrunn Palace.

Dressing up like young Habsburgs, the girls had swanned around in wigs and musty gowns, laying tables for banquets and begging not to leave – a far cry from our usual museum experiences. Before boarding this train we’d had one last run around the interactive Technical Museum, where the human-sized hamster wheels, peg games and slides had so worn out the children that my five-year-old was asleep as the train plunged into the Semmering mountain pass.

It was still light as we swept around the Alps, my eight-year-old kneeling at the window and asking where local people shopped, so few and far between were signs of human life. Horses grazed in paddocks, cows nuzzled, and the occasional hamlet emerged from round a bend as though the chalets were shaken like dice and tossed into the slopes. In the blue-grey twilight we watched streams gleam like strips of metal, and spotted a single stag poised at the edge of a wood, before the train made a long stop at the Styrian city of Leoben, at which point we turned in.

Like the mini cabins, the compartment was still too cold, the pillow still too flat, but the berths were wider and the huge window a blessing compared with the single berths’ portholes – this one allowed for wistful gazing.

Shoving a rolled-up jumper under my head, I fell asleep, waking at 7am to rumpled clouds and a golden flare on the horizon. Most night trains terminate soon after passengers have woken up, but this one was perfect, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of hot chocolate and jam rolls while watching the Tuscan dawn breaking into song, and Umbrian lakes and cornfields running parallel before we finally drew into Rome – on time.

When travelling alone I relish arriving with the entire day at my disposal, but with children it’s hard work waiting until 3pm to check in to accommodation, so I default to staying at a Hoxton hotel if one is available. Its Flexy Time policy allows guests to choose what time they check in and out for free, and by 11am we had checked in, showered and set off to toss coins in the Trevi fountain, finding thick whorls of eggy carbonara at nearby trattoria Maccheroni, and gelato at Don Nino. To avoid the crowds and heat, we waited until 6pm to hire an electric pedal car from Bici Pincio at the Villa Borghese and drove around the landscaped, leafy grounds, relishing the quietness of the evening ride. Excited about the next adventure in Florence, the girls had only one complaint: that they couldn’t ride there on the night train.

Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train (Bloomsbury, £22), published on 28 August and available on pre-order at guardianbookshop.com

Omio provided travel in a four-person private compartment in a couchette carriage from Vienna to Rome (from £357). Accommodation was provided by Superbude Wien Prater in Vienna (doubles from €89 room-only); and The Hoxton in Rome (doubles from €189 room-only)