Fallow deer are grazing under ruined brick walls in the house where Lady Jane Grey was born. It’s a moody spring day at Bradgate Park in Leicestershire and there are few visitors. Instead, there are fieldfares in the hedges and skylarks singing in the mist. I’m walking, through bracken and craggy outcrops, towards Old John Tower, a folly that looks like a giant beer mug on the hill ahead.
It sometimes feels as though England’s much-photographed beauty spots get more booked up and overpriced every day. But there are scenic corners of the country that still fly under the insta-radar and Charnwood, around Loughborough, is one of these. The largest borough in Leicestershire,Charnwood is the area between Leicester and the Nottinghamshire border. Its gentle wooded hills and well-kept villages offer country walks to gourmet pubs and cafes. It’s like a cheaper, quieter Cotswolds with better transport links.
The Navigation Inn in Barrow upon Soar. Photograph: Terence Wright/Alamy
An hour and a quarter by train from London or 50 minutes from Sheffield, Loughborough is easy to reach. The town makes a good base for a Charnwood holiday, with several immersive, weatherproof experiences and easy rural connections by bus, rail and steam train.
The atmospheric landscapes around popular Bradgate Park are just a few miles south of Loughborough. Bus 154 winds past thatched and half-timbered cottages, rugged granite chimneys and drifts of garden snowdrops. Outside the Badger’s Sett pub, near Cropston Reservoir, you can hop off the bus into Causeway Lane, a quiet stony track leading to Bradgate Park with wide views over the water.
Next morning’s mist turns to rain and I head to the UK’s last remaining bellfoundry for a tour. Fifteen minutes’ stroll from the cafe-lined lanes around the market, the museum was relaunched in 2024. Inside the foundry, there are showers of sparks from a metalworker’s bench, a smell of wood shavings in the bell-wheel workshop, and an 18ft-deep sandpit for cooling casts.
Loughborough is home to the UK’s last working bellfoundry. Photograph: John Keates/Alamy
Loughborough Bellfoundry has made bells for cathedrals around the world, from York Minster to Sydney’s St Andrew’s, including Britain’s biggest church bell, Great Paul, for St Paul’s Cathedral. Shiny new and refurbished bells are destined for churches in Truro, Paisley, Betws-y-Coed, Stow-on-the-Wold. Guide Lianne Brooks is a keen bellringer, ringing in four church towers each week. “One pull on a rope and I was hooked,” she laughs. As she demonstrates on the foundry’s bells, the metal vibrates with a low seismic hum. The bellfoundry’s museum has a £5 entry fee for adults, and tours are available from £20.
The 1950s-style heritage Great Central Railway (GCR) station, a couple of minutes away, includes another packed museum and a Brief Encounter-esque refreshment room. With a whistle and whoosh of steam, we’re off, past banks where badgers live, to 1940s-themed Quorn and Woodhouse station. There’s a Naafi-style cafe, with a blazing log fire and radio playing wartime songs, in an old air-raid shelter under the railway bridge.
More than 700 volunteers work on GCR, doing everything from shovelling coal to serving tea. “Dig for Victory” says a sign above trackside gardens, where pink-and-lime-green rhubarb unfurls in pale spring sunshine. Drivers are training new recruits. “If one of us old buggers suddenly collapses, we’d need someone to take over,” says chief fire inspector Ken Scriven, a long-term volunteer driver and former mainline fireman.
The Great Central Railway in Loughborough. Photograph: Simon Pocklington/Alamy
GCR has ambitious schemes, with planning permission granted in 2025, to link the railway through to Nottingham, one of Europe’s biggest heritage rail projects. The photogenic stations feature regularly in TV series, from The Crown to Happy Valley. Much of the recent Netflix drama Seven Dials takes place on board one of GCR’s steam trains. Rolling on towards Leicester, we cross the bullrush-framed Swithland Reservoir, where dining cars pause to watch swans glide over sunset waters (GCR day tickets £24/£13 for adults/kids).
I’m staying at Burleigh Court on Loughborough’s crocus-carpeted university campus on the edge of town (doubles from £75, room only). At night I can hear tawny owls hooting from nearby bluebell woods. The Sprint Bus links the campus with the town centre and railway station every 10 minutes. There’s art on the walls by Loughborough students, carpets made from recycled bottles, and a spa with a decent-sized pool. A £4.5m refurb in autumn 2024 introduced the stylish new Fifty Restaurant, where half the meals are plant-based, and a bar, named after Lionesses Carney and Scott, both Loughborough alumnae. Cocktails include sustainable drinks using leftover veg. I sip a chocolatey purple Beet the Waste while a fellow-drinker braves the Cauliflower Colada.
John’s House is Leicestershire’s only Michelin-starred restaurant
Leicestershire’s only Michelin-starred restaurant is John’s House, a beamed, brick building on a working farm in the village of Mountsorrel, 20 minutes from Loughborough on bus 127 the next day. “It’s a good job he can cook,” jokes John’s brother Tom Duffin; “he was bugger-all use on the farm.” Nearby, the sheep are loudly hungry. “I hear that noise in my nightmares,” grins a young farmworker, lugging a bag of feed. The farm’s hogget, with locally foraged hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, features in today’s lunch (three courses, £49). Fresh venison arrives from Bradgate Park. The evening’s tasting menu (from £100) includes fallow deer with walnut wine as well as Tom’s potatoes with smoked eel, crispy chicken skin and lovage. Stonehurst Farm itself has a nostalgic smell of baking and wet straw. Tom’s daughter, soil scientist Zoe, shows us round pens of rare curly-headed Leicester Longwool sheep and gingery Tamworth pigs, destined for summer hog roasts. Tiny orange piglets are climbing over a spotted sow. There are Easter lambs on the way and a new indoor play barn.
At drier times of year, it’s a pleasant two-mile walk from Mountsorrel along the river to the pub-rich village of Barrow upon Soar. Today, the Soar has spilled onto the floodplains, leaving a duck-dotted lake where the path should be. Luckily, it’s not much further by road, taking a path known as The Slabs. Stepping out of icy drizzle into the fire-warmed Blacksmith’s Arms feels miraculous. An elegant mushroom wellington with deeply savoury mash goes well with golden beers from Charnwood Brewery. Trains from Barrow-upon-Soar station are hourly and take only five minutes to get back to Loughborough. Outside the window are boats on willow-hemmed waterways and flocks of wintering geese.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, Italy — In some families, children are expected to attend the same college as their parents or root for mom or dad’s favorite team.
In Azaria Hill’s family, the children were encouraged to go to the Olympics. Not to watch, but to compete.
Hill’s father Virgil, a boxer, earned a silver medal at the 1984 Summer Games. Hill’s mother, Denean Howard, met Virgil at the 1984 Games and won Olympic gold that year running with her sister, Sherri Howard, in the 4×400-meter relay. The sisters won silver medals in the 4×400 at the 1988 Olympics before Denean earned another silver at the 1992 Games.
“At a very young age, since I could understand what the Olympics were and knew what my family did as Olympians, I knew that’s something that I wanted to do and wanted to experience,” Hill said.
But her top marks of 11.70 seconds in the 100 meters and 23.93 in the 200 didn’t rank in the top 100 for U.S. women in 2021, her senior year at Nevada Las Vegas. So if she was going to continue the family tradition, she knew she’d have to find another sport.
Jadin O’Brien was in a similar fix. She won two NCAA titles in the pentathlon but finished seventh at the U.S. trials ahead of the 2024 Games. To realize her Olympic dream, she’d have to change sports too.
Luckily for both women, there was a well-worn path from the track to the Winter Olympics: Just hop onto a sled. On Friday, Hill and O’Brien will complete their journeys when the two-woman bobsled competition gets underway at the Cortina Sliding Centre.
“I never thought that this would even be a possibility or an opportunity,” Hill said. “It just kind of fell into my lap and I was really good at it. I stuck it out and worked hard and here I am a Winter Olympian.”
She has Kaysha Love, a UNLV teammate, to thank for that. An 11-time high school track champion in Utah, Love was encouraged by her college coach to take part in a 12-day bobsled rookie camp after COVID shortened the track season her senior year. That led to more auditions and 14 months later she and pilot Kaillie Humphries won a World Cup race.
U.S. bobsledders Azaria Hill, left, and Kaysha Love take part in a training run Wednesday in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy.
(Aijaz Rahi / Associated Press)
After just six races, Love made the 2022 U.S. Olympic team as a brakewoman. She then tried to sell Hill on the sport.
“She was like ‘I think you should try it. Let’s see if you can do it,’” Hill remembered. “I went to my first rookie camp and I did really well, got invited back to some more camps, and ended up making my first World Cup team.”
That was in December 2023. Two years later she made it to the Olympics as the brakewoman for Love, who is now a driver.
“That’s completely opposite of what I thought I’d be doing,” Hill said. “The first time it is definitely scary. I was like, ‘I don’t know if I can do this. I don’t know if I even want to do this.’ It is an acquired taste.
“But Keisha Love was just super positive.”
O’Brien’s rise to Olympian in the two-person bobsled, the second-fastest sliding sport of the Winter Games, has been even swifter. Elana Meyers Taylor, a five-time Olympian and five-time medalist, began recruiting O’Brien to be her brakewoman after the Beijing Games. At first she resisted, but last summer O’Brien decided she needed a rest from track “and bobsled seemed like a good alternative, so I took it up.”
Jadin O’Brien, left, and Elana Meyers Taylor prepare for a bobsled training run at the Milan-Cortina Olympic Games on Wednesday.
(Aijaz Rahi / Associated Press)
In her World Cup debut four months later, O’Brien pushed Taylor to a fourth-place finish, earning a spot on the Olympic team.
“There was so much I needed to learn,” she said. “Luckily there were quite a few girls who were very patient with me, who helped me understand the sport, understand form.”
One of the most important things she had to learn is when to pull the brake.
“If you do it too early, then you’re going to drastically hurt your time. If you do it too late, there’s a chance you’re going to ruin the runners because the track ends at a certain point,” O’Brien said.
And that decision has to be made in a heartbeat at the end of a mile-long ice chute covered at speeds exceeding 90 mph.
“It’s terrifying. You’re going super, super fast. As a brakeman you can’t see what’s going on because your head is down,” she said. “But at the same time it’s very thrilling. You feel like you’re flying if the run is done right. It’s almost addicting.”
Track athletes like Hill, 27, and O’Brien, 23, have a long history of success in bobsled, where speed and power at the start are important. Lauryn Williams won a gold medal on the track in the 2012 London Games and a silver on the back of Taylor’s sled two years later in Sochi. Lolo Jones won three world championships on the track and two in a bobsled. Most of the Jamaican team in Cortina is made up of sprinters who couldn’t catch Usain Bolt, so they climbed in a bobsled instead.
“They’ve got just an athleticism that is very applicable to pushing sleds,” said Curtis Tomasevicz, a former football player at Nebraska who won gold and silver Olympic medals in the four-man bobsled before becoming a coach with the U.S. team. “We’re recruiting athletes that have a sprinting ability and we feel like we can teach them to be bobsledders in a short amount of time.”
For Hill, that transition from the sprints to a sled has allowed her to carry on a family tradition. And she’ll have 11 relatives — including two Olympic medalists — at the Cortina Sliding Centre on Friday when she creates her own memories as the first Hill to compete in the Winter Games.
“They’re super excited seeing me on this journey, being that I’ve been able to kind of follow my own mission, create something for myself,” she said. “It’s almost like they’re kind of experiencing it again, but just in a different way.
“This has definitely exceeded my expectations of what I thought being an Olympian would be. It’s so much fun.”
Steve and his son Joe are swapping lives with Kelly, John and their five children who live 29 miles away in Stafford.
For seven days, they get to live in each other’s homes and survive on their budgets and lifestyle.
In a clip shown on Instagram, Steve highlighted the spacious mansion he lives in, boasting 11 bedrooms and six bedrooms.
However, Kelly, John and their family live in a four-bedroom semi and live hand to mouth.
As the pair swap homes, the couple are blown away to see the mansion they’d be living in for a week.
When inside, John sent his children on a mission to find the swimming pool, although they had trouble locating it, unaware that the ballroom floor lowered to create a pool.
One of their daughters commented: “We were walking over it and everything! No one even knew that it was there. That was the shock. It was very magical, very hidden even though it’s right in front of your eyes.”
For the latest showbiz, TV, movie and streaming news, go to the new **Everything Gossip** website.
As the family got acquainted with their new life of luxury, they were speechless to discover their budget for the week was a staggering £2,040.
Overcome with emotion, Kelly replied: “That’s a lot. Are we too late in life to achieve, to even get even half of this a week? Are we too far in life to get this?”
Whereas Steve and his son were tasked with living off the family’s budget of £39.80. Commenting on the price, he said: “I never expected to have such a little budget.”
Viewers were quick to comment on the clip shared on Instagram, as one person said: “I watched this episode last night!!! One of there best ones, Both families are so nice and genuine.. happy with the outcome at the end.”
Another added: “This programme is a genuine reality eye opener.”
Someone else wrote: “I love this programme. It’s almost always has got such lovely people both sides.”
Rich House, Poor House is available to watch on Channel 5.
Ensure our latest headlines always appear at the top of your Google Search by making us a Preferred Source.** Click here to activate**** or add us as your Preferred Source in your Google search settings.**
The picturesque village boasts 1,000 years of rich history, stunning churches and marvellous buildings, as well as a legendary haunted pub.
It’s paradise for history buffs and fans of medieval architecture(Image: Getty Images)
A picturesque Lancashire village renowned for its medieval heritage, stunning landscapes, and a celebrated pub with a spooky history is being praised as essential viewing by visitors.
Nestled between Ribble Valley and the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), this charming hamlet offers the perfect peaceful retreat, particularly for those passionate about history.
With origins stretching back at least 1,000 years, the serene village of Chipping features in the Domesday Book as Chippenden; the name stems from ‘Chepyn’ meaning ‘market place’.
The settlement experienced significant wealth in bygone eras, flourishing throughout the Industrial Revolution, when seven mills operated along Chipping Brook’s banks.
Best Lancashire holiday cottage deals
This article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
Lancashire is known for its wide open skies, stunning landscapes and lively coastal resorts. Sykes Cottages has a wide range of self catering accommodation across the county from £42 a night.
Chipping possesses a fascinating and layered past, with its period buildings ranking among the village’s premier attractions.
Wandering through this delightful village feels remarkably like travelling back in time, with the scenic hamlet radiating an unmistakably medieval yet captivating atmosphere, reports Lancs Live.
Indeed, numerous stone cottages throughout the village date back to the 1600s and 1700s, enhancing its historical appeal.
St Bartholomew’s Church
The village of Chipping houses the 13th-century St Bartholomew’s Church, an active Anglican church with Grade II Listed status, positioned at the village centre and partially restored in 1505, 1706, and throughout the 19th Century.
St Bartholomew’s Church boasts an ancient yew tree within its grounds – a magnificent landmark renowned throughout the county – thought to be more than a century old.
A sundial from 1708 can also be discovered in the churchyard on the southern side of the main structure.
Open for private prayer daily between 10am and 3.30pm, this beautiful church has occupied its present site for more than 500 years and forms an integral part of Chipping’s medieval heritage.
St Mary’s Church
After the 16th-century Protestant Reformation, publicly practising Catholicism became unlawful, yet several local landowners who stayed Catholic proceeded to create a handful of worship centres on their properties.
One was in Chipping, founded by the Welds of Leagram Hall.
In 1827, George Weld donated funds and land to build the openly Catholic St Mary’s Church in Chipping village, just before Catholic Emancipation in 1829.
He also constructed an adjoining priest’s house and a school (now serving as a parish hall) around the same period, which remain standing as the buildings we observe in the village today.
Other medieval attractions
Another medieval site in Lancashire’s Chipping is Hesketh End on Judd Holmes Lane – a Grade I Listed Building originating from 1591 and the early 17th century, which underwent restoration in 1907.
The Grade II Listed Woolfen Hall, potentially dating back to the 16th century and nestled at the base of nearby Parlick Hill, is a must-see when visiting Chipping.
The village boasts two incredibly popular pubs: The Sun Inn, a welcoming yet infamously legendary 17th-century pub, sits unassumingly on the corner of Chipping’s main street, proudly displaying its rich history of spectral tales.
Chipping’s other well-loved watering hole is The Tillotson’s Arms on Talbot Street. Constructed around 1836 and historically known as the Buck Inn, it has since been renamed to The Tilly’s.
If you buy books linked on our site, The Times may earn a commission from Bookshop.org, whose fees support independent bookstores.
Two figures will always haunt the human imagination: the woman in ecstasy, and the woman in madness. This enduring fascination may stem as much from the paper-thin line that separates the two states as it does from our deep-seated fear of both. If the devoted nun resembles the raving patient, does that not justify locking them away, protecting ourselves from their unsettling power?
Two recent novels go behind the walls of anchorite and lunatic cells in different centuries and for different purposes, yet wind up demonstrating how women forced by circumstance behind walls influence the lives of others into the future. In “Canticle,” a debut from Janet Rich Edwards, a young woman named Aleys enters religious life in 13th-century Bruges, Belgium, after a Franciscan, Brother Lukas, witnesses her fervor. A series of unfortunate events ultimately lead to her permanent cloister, a tiny cell built into the wall of a cathedral. Paula McLain’s new book, “Skylark,” spans several centuries in Paris, beginning in the 17th when Alouette Voland is sentenced to the Salpetrière asylum after protesting the arrest of her father, an expert fabric dyer, from prison, for the brilliant blue hue he has concocted — actually his daughter’s recipe, which contains dangerous arsenic. Alouette’s attempts to reclaim her work as her own instead of her father’s result in her consignment to Salpêtrière.
While both novels feature terrific and authentic detail about the rough confines Aleys and Alouette endure, the message beneath the descriptions is far more terrifying and authentic: for centuries, the fear of female agency and non-male approaches to power has led to deep trauma, not just for individual women, but for Western civilization itself. For instance, Aleys’s late mother cherished books, even though common people rarely knew how to read and write, let alone owned books. Aleys cherishes the tiny, exquisite psalter her mother inherited from an abbess aunt. Although Aleys’s mother cannot read, she knows the stories of the saints and relishes embroidering them with “goriest” details to keep her children interested. Yet, even as Aleys’s world begins to change with the rise of lay literacy, those lay people are almost entirely men. Women, whether secular or religious, remain forbidden to read, write or tell stories.
“Canticle” author Janet Rich Edwards.
(Laura Rich)
Aleys, at first, seems to be on a path toward personal enlightenment. Brother Lukas declares her a Franciscan, convincing his superior, Bishop of Tournai Jaan Metz, that the young woman possesses special spiritual gifts. The Bishop agrees, but insists that since no other Franciscans are female, Aleys must be sent to the nearby Beguines—laywomen who take no vows, live in community, and work to support the church. While Aleys initially finds the Beguines “wanton” due to their “strange rites,” including casual dress and meetings, their charismatic leader, Grand Mistress Sophia Vermeulen, convinces Aleys of the group’s higher purpose.
Aleys later discovers that a beguine named Katrijn Janssens has been secretly translating Latin scripture into Dutch. In the evenings, the women often perform ecstatic dances while someone reads from the “Canticle of Canticles” (also known as the “Song of Songs”). Aleys already has a strong mystical bent, and after some time in the Begijnhof, she supposedly cures a young boy’s illness. Unfortunately, she’s unable to do the same when Sophia becomes sick. Her subsequent eviction from the Beguines leads to her accepting the Bishop’s offer of sanctuary—as an anchorite, destined to live out her days in a tiny stone outcropping. Her only contact with other humans is a slit through which she can hear daily mass, save for Marte, the low-ranking Beguine assigned to deliver her meals and empty her slop bucket.
Meanwhile, Alouette has become an adept of dye recipes. Even though she and other women are able to read, write, and keep ledgerbooks by this date, the complicated and often secret tinctures concocted for fabrics remain the province of men.
Like Aleys, Alouette forms alliances with other women, Sylvine and Marguerite, the latter of whom carefully documents the guards’ abuses in a ledger. These abuses include the murder of inmates’ infants, a fact that galvanizes the pregnant Alouette (the father of her child, Étienne, is a quarryman) into joining a plan for escape through the Paris sewers. The women find refuge in a convent and, ultimately, in a seaside town where some measure of peace awaits them.
It’s a far happier ending than Aleys’s, who is met with a darker fate. That is partly because McLain’s novel doesn’t end with Alouette’s relatively soft landing; “Skylark” continues in 1939 through the perspective of Kristof Larsen, a Dutch psychiatrist in Paris. His relationship with his Jewish neighbors, the Brodskys, grows closer as Nazi power corrupts France. Despite his ties to the resistance, Kristof cannot save the entire family during the 1942 Vélodrome d’Hiver roundup, but he takes responsibility for their 15-year-old daughter Sasha. Along with his compatriot Ursula, they are guided to safety through the same Paris tunnels that sheltered Alouette centuries earlier.
“Skylark” author Paula McLain.
(Simon & Schuster)
The fragile tie between Alouette and Sasha rests in a tiny piece of glass found during the restoration of Notre Dame de Paris after the 2019 fire. A conservator uncovers the shard, which bears an intense blue figure of a skylark — evidence, at least to the reader, that Alouette’s recipe endured, and a symbol of how both she and Sasha escaped. Female creation and resistance, the novel suggests, endure, too.
At first, that seems at odds with Aleys’s tragic fate. “As the crowd parts before her, Aleys sees the path of gray cobblestones receding to the stake. Parchment is piled high at its base. Smaller fires have already been lit, dotting the plaza. They’re burning her words, too. . . ” Yet, it’s no spoiler to reveal that during her long weeks and months as an anchorite, Aleys found the means to slowly and secretly teach Marte, lowliest of the Beguines, how to read and write. “They write words on the sill between them and wipe them off, their palms and feet dark with dust.” Just as Aleys’s mother passed on her passion for books and Alouette pursued her passion for beauty, Marte will carry on a passion for stories.
More important, however, and something that ties “Skylark” to “Canticle,” is that Aleys and Alouette, Marte and Sasha, live on through work done by and with women. Whether it’s a recipe for dye, a hunger for divine knowledge, or the means to freedom, the main characters in both novels believe deeply in women’s full humanity. Aleys acknowledges the contentment of the Beguines, understanding that their communal labors knit their “hopes, their labor, even their disagreements” as “strands in a single weave. Kristof says of Ursula that she “charts her course in full light with eyes wide open, and still she chooses danger. Chooses–over and over–not to surrender.”
It’s true that the authors of these novels live in 21st-century North America, where many people believe in equality even if the full humanity of others is under attack, but neither Edwards nor McLain indulges in anachronisms. Aleys yearns for divine ecstasy but does not come across as a would-be influencer, let alone as a Mother Ann Lee fomenting spiritual revolution; she believes in the church, even if not fully in its leadership, until her end. Alouette and her comrades pursue a different life but do not seek it for everyone, which feels right not just for their era but for their experience of trauma. Even Ursula and Sasha rely on men for their escape, accepting that whoever has the correct experience and expertise should lead the way.
What “Canticle” and “Skylark” get right about their very different heroines and time periods is that change doesn’t happen overnight, nor does it benefit everyone. Aleys teaches Marte to read, but Aleys will suffer for her ideas. Sasha will escape Vichy France, but her family will still die in the concentration camps. Switch the clauses in those sentences around, however, and you’ll be reminded that change can and does happen, one determined woman at a time.
Patrick is a freelance critic and author of the memoir “Life B.”
