Public transport

I stayed a UK hotel that’s one of Europe’s ‘best resorts’ – my honest review

Mar Hall Hotel and Resort near Glasgow underwent a £20m refurbishment and was voted in the top 20 resorts in Europe by Condé Nast Traveler readers – and I recently stayed there

Many tourists are drawn to Scotland for the Highlands, Loch Ness and whisky — not necessarily the outskirts of Glasgow. However, I recently discovered a charming corner of Scotland is just a stone’s throw from the baggage claim.

The phrase “airport hotel” isn’t one that ignites much enthusiasm. They’re more often a necessary inconvenience than a destination, but just outside Scotland’s largest city lies the newly refurbished Mar Hall Hotel and Resort. Let’s be clear, this isn’t so much an ‘airport hotel’ as it is a hotel near an airport. The five-star resort has recently undergone a £20million makeover under new management.

Despite being no more than 30 minutes from my flat, it feels like an escape to the country. Arriving at 3pm, which is sunset during the depths of winter here, the sun casts a golden hue over the Clyde and the gently rolling hills and trees beyond. Toto, I don’t think we’re in Glasgow anymore.

The new Mar Hall

At the grand old age of 180, Mar Hall has had several incarnations. Originally commissioned by the 11th Lord Blantyre as the latest Erskine house estate, it was later transformed into a hospital for soldiers returning from World War 1 with amputations.

Fast forward to 2025 and Mar Hall finds itself under fresh ownership once more. For Glaswegians such as myself, an evening spent in a lavish period property offers a welcome escape from everyday life. For those travelling from further away, it provides an exceptionally luxurious introduction to Scotland.

Despite the hotel’s new proprietors being Dubai-based — and its Instagram-ready aesthetic — Mar Hall’s makeover feels unmistakably Scottish. During a tour of the recently renovated establishment, Jim Hamilton from Graven, the interior design company behind the transformation, told me he grew up locally and still lives minutes away.

The quintessentially Glaswegian design house Timorous Beasties provided wallpapers and fabrics, while Glasgow’s Artpistol gallery sourced much of the artwork displayed throughout, including pieces from recent Glasgow School of Art graduates.

Noting how Mar Hall has transformed from “home to hospital to hospitality”, Jim said they aimed to maintain that sense of homeliness and care in its latest incarnation.

One of the callbacks to its Victorian roots is the potted palm trees flanking the entrance hall — a nod to an era when exotic plants were a symbol of sophistication and worldliness. The attention to detail extended to the very walls. A series of four large paintings depicting Scotland’s seasons, commissioned from Scottish artist Nichol Wheatley, are set within custom wall panelling, reflecting the style of the period.

The aesthetic is a bold mix of vibrant colours and patterns: it’s Victorian, but with a 2025 twist. Your gaze is constantly drawn upwards through the lofty spaces towards the stunning vaulted ceilings above. The overall effect is lavish and chic, yet inviting. Whilst it is a five-star resort, the staff are incredibly friendly, making me feel perfectly at ease.

The rooms

It’s nearing December and the hotel has been fully decked out for the festive season. The receptionist, who offers a typically warm Scottish welcome, pauses before the doors to the Gallery, clearly excited to show me the grand room at the heart of the hotel.

For a moment, I worry about having to feign excitement for this kindly lady, but when she swings open the doors, I’m genuinely taken aback. It’s even more impressive in person than online.

To reach one of the hotel’s 74 rooms, guests walk through the Gallery with its plush seating, fireplaces and marble bar. I’m handed the keys to the Erskine grand suite for the night, priced at £1,125 per night, kitted out with a regal sitting room and grand piano.

The sitting room and bathroom, featuring a rolltop bath, offer views over the golf course, River Clyde and picturesque woodlands beyond, in that order. The bespoke bookcases are so perfectly illuminated — as is everything in the hotel — that when I meet Jim, I can’t resist asking if he would design my flat pro bono.

The festive decorations extend to the rooms. I’m thrilled to discover a Christmas tree in the lounge, sparkling next to a handwritten note and dish of treats welcoming me to Mar Hall. It’s enough to make anyone feel warm and fuzzy.

The bedroom, with its luxurious four-poster bed and impeccably luxurious bedding, lulls me to sleep shortly after I start watching a cheesy Netflix Christmas film. It’s a pity I can’t spend more time savouring a hotel room of this standard.

Mar Hall only reopened in May this year, but I hear Kylie Minogue has already stayed in these suites twice.

The food

Before dinner, I enjoy a drink in the Slàinte bar, which is delightfully cosy with a crackling fireplace and a Christmas tree. For dinner, smoked salmon, beef, and sticky toffee pudding are the mainstays of ‘fancy dining’ in Scotland and rightly so. I’m pleased to see all three on the menu.

Layering local smoked salmon on a bed of horseradish and a crunchy cracker was a real treat. The blade of beef was as tender as expected, with dauphinoise and honey-roasted carrots making for a perfect mouthful. The only critique I’d have is that the pudding could have done with more toffee sauce, as is often the case.

The unexpected highlight, however, were the warm fig bread rolls – they’ve been on my mind ever since. And all throughout, the service struck a good balance between being attentive and unobtrusive.

Breakfast in the Dining Room offers a continental selection with a variety of hot options including full Scottish breakfast, sausage egg roll, eggs Benedict, and porridge. I chose the ‘rise & shine crumpet’, a tasty combination of Argyll smoked salmon with scrambled egg.

Location and facilities

Mar Hall is set within a 240-acre estate, just a 25-minute drive from Glasgow city centre or a mere 10 minutes from Glasgow Airport. However, it’s not easily reachable by public transport.

The 18-hole Earl of Mar golf course is conveniently located just outside. Like the hotel, it boasts picturesque views of the River Clyde and the Kilpatrick Hills.

The spa features a swimming pool, saunas and steam rooms. Other amenities include a gym, games room and private screening room.

Final thoughts

Mar Hall’s new owners have invested millions into the hotel with the aim of making it a world-class destination. Resort director Andy Roger shared plans for a clubhouse featuring a second restaurant and a state-of-the-art indoor-outdoor spa.

However, it faces tough competition just an hour up the M8. This year, Mar Hall made it into the top 20 resorts in Europe as voted by readers of American luxury travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler. The number one spot on the list? Gleneagles. This iconic resort is a Scottish summer camp for the rich, offering seven eateries, three golf courses and a spa, along with horse riding, shooting, fishing, off-roading and more in the hills of the Perthshire resort.

While it may not be a full-service millionaire’s playground, I’m already excited about returning. Mar Hall tops my list for a pampering staycation with my husband or for afternoon tea with out-of-town visitors. Once the spa is refurbished, I know it’ll be a huge hit with locals.

The more time I spent at Mar Hall, the less I wanted to leave, and that’s the sign of a great hotel.

Booking details

Rooms and packages can be booked through Mar Hall’s website. Rooms start from £292.

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I visited a great Christmas market in one of Europe’s most walkable cities just 1 hour from UK

Amsterdam’s iconic Christmas market serves glühwein, raclette and festive treats just one hour from the UK – it needs to be on your radar this winter.

There’s only so much time to soak up the Christmas spirit before the big day, and despite work and life becoming more hectic than usual, I managed to swap the hustle and bustle of London for Amsterdam. It was my first trip back to the Dutch capital in a decade, with my arrival coinciding with the start of one of the city’s most iconic Christmas markets, reports the Express.

Christmas markets in the UK can be hit or miss, and I must admit, the ones I’ve visited over the years have never quite matched those on the continent. The first time I realised our markets didn’t measure up was just a few years ago when I visited Vienna, which can only be described as Christmas on steroids.

The largest Christmas market in Amsterdam springs up in the shadow of the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein, where you can blend the festive spirit with a visit to some of the city’s most renowned museums and galleries.

We arrived on its opening day, and even though we visited in the evening, we managed to dodge the wall-to-wall crowds. This was something I never experienced in Vienna, and on this occasion, I was extremely grateful for it.

Entry to the market is free, but you’ll have to fork out €16 for the joy of skating on its ice rink. Much like other European markets, Amsterdam’s was adorned with wooden chalets offering everything from knick-knacks to treats, piping hot cups of glühwein and food from all around the world.

There was even a cabin flying the Union Jack selling fudge. Who would have thought that British fudge was such a hit overseas?

No visit to a Christmas market would be complete without trying some of the local specialities. A Dutch wurst is a robust cured pork sausage typically served with stamppot, a blend of mashed potatoes and kale. However, it seemed we had arrived too late. No wursts for us.

So we settled for the next best thing: barbeque jumbo sausages served on toasted slices of bread with pickled onions and gherkins, topped with crispy onions and mayo. This isn’t your average sausage sandwich. Trying to tackle every bite is a mouthful, overflowing with chunks of smoky sausage and crumbly onions.

It was evidently a popular choice, with crowds gathering around the open flame grill right in the heart of the action, with sausages sizzling and emitting a tantalising aroma. A barbeque might not be what you expect in the depths of winter, but blimey, was it needed.

Sadly, the warmth emanating from the grill wasn’t enough to heat our bones while we waited, so two cups of glühwein were called for. Glühwein is traditional German mulled wine, delicately spiced with cinnamon, cloves, star anise.

I’m not entirely certain what the secret is, but somehow the Germans manage to perfectly balance the red wine and spices in a way that all the mulled wine I’ve sampled at UK Christmas markets always seem far too acidic. Glühwein is the ideal beverage to warm you to your core, particularly in a freezing city in December, even if the city is renowned for its beer.

When our sausages finally turned up, they were heaped with pickled onions and gherkins. Much like a Scandi open sandwich, it was bursting with diverse flavours, so unlike any festive fare you’d find back home.

You received an entire jumbo sausage on one slice of bread, quartered to actually fit into your mouth. The smoky pork was wonderfully offset by the sharp tang from the pickles, with a different texture provided by crispy onions. This isn’t your typical Christmas market grub, but it was delightful to sample some local specialities.

However, no Christmas is complete without a generous helping of cheese. A classic choice at European Christmas markets is bubbling, ooey, gooey raclette.

We opted for the traditional pairing of raclette and potatoes. What could be more perfect? The humble new potato smothered in smoky melted cheese.

The cheesy spuds were served with some more crispy onions and a fresh coleslaw. Now this is what Christmas is truly about. I would devour a bucketful of raclette if they’d offered one.

Sausages, glühwein and raclette: the holy trinity of Christmas market food.

Even though it was late at night and the crowds were thinning, there was still a buzz among the youngsters and families huddled around the electric heaters trying to stay warm, sipping from steaming cups, welcoming the festive season. Compared to Vienna, Amsterdam’s markets offer a more tranquil start to the Christmas season.

Is this the best Christmas market I’ve ever visited? Probably not, but I’m always fascinated to see how other countries embrace the festive season.

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Amsterdam is one of those cities where you can spend hours just wandering around, and we certainly did plenty of that. You can meander from spot to spot with ease, particularly if navigating foreign public transport baffles you. That being said, Amsterdam’s public transport runs like clockwork.

From the moment you step out of Amsterdam Centraal, you can sense the Christmas spirit in the air. I returned to the city for the first time in ten years, and up until this point, I hadn’t felt all that festive.

Amsterdam served as a stepping stone into Christmas for me before I head back to Vienna again for round two of Christmas on steroids. If there’s anywhere you should flee to in December, it’s Amsterdam. It’s only a train journey away.

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Keir Starmer shares new £3 bus fare cap update

The Prime Minister says catching a bus ‘shouldn’t cost the earth’

Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer has issued a fresh message on public transport costs this morning, stressing that taking the bus ‘shouldn’t cost the earth’. His thoughts come after bus fares on thousands of routes in England were previously capped at £3 until 2027.

“Catching the bus shouldn’t cost the earth,” Sir Keir said on X, formerly Twitter, this morning. “That’s why we are capping bus fares at £3 and investing in new buses and stops.”

Earlier this year, the Government’s Spending Review revealed that its £3 bus fare cap would remain in effect until at least March 2027. This measure, which applies to most bus routes in England, was first introduced in January 2023. While the cap was initially £2, this was subsequently increased to £3 on single bus fares outside London from January 2025.

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The Government has explained that participation in the fare cap initiative is voluntary, meaning some firms have chosen not to take part. Instead, local companies may offer ‘other types of tickets that are suitable’ for similar needs.

“Some types of routes are not covered by this scheme so they are not included, for example, coach services, school-only services or airport services,” the Government further advises online. “Fares are capped locally in London, so it is not included in this scheme. Routes listed as ‘not included’ in the national £3 fare cap may still offer a discounted fare as part of a locally run initiative.”

Despite this, residents of England who are considered ‘eligible disabled’ may obtain a bus pass for completely free off-peak local travel, thanks to the English National Concessionary Travel Scheme (ENCTS). Similarly, residents of England and Wales can obtain free bus passes upon reaching State Pension Age, or at the age of 60 in London specifically.

The regional disparity between London and the rest of England has recently taken centre stage in public debate, following a parliamentary petition that collected over 100,000 signatures. This campaign argued that the current situation is ‘unjust’ and free bus travel should be extended to all people over 60 in England.

The Department for Transport (DfT) responded to these complaints in February this year, stating that ‘any changes to the statutory scheme must be carefully considered for their impact on its financial sustainability’. However, the subject will soon be debated in Parliament on January 5, 2026.

The DfT response continued: “The ENCTS provides free off-peak bus travel to those with eligible disabilities and those of state pension age, currently sixty-six. The ENCTS costs around £700 million annually and any changes to the statutory obligations, such as lowering the age of eligibility, would therefore need to be carefully considered for its impact on the scheme’s financial sustainability.

“Local authorities in England do have the power to offer concessions in addition to their statutory obligations, for example, by extending the age of eligibility for the older persons’ bus pass. These are additional local concessions provided and funded by local authorities from local resources, depending on the needs and priorities of each area.”

At the time, it also added: “Concessionary travel is a devolved policy area and as such, the eligibility age for the bus pass differs between the devolved nations of the United Kingdom. This means, in effect, that there are different schemes in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, so the administrative arrangements are entirely separate.”

If you are reaching State Pension age or are considered ‘eligible disabled’ and are interested in applying for a bus pass, refer to the Government’s website for further information. You can also read the now-closed bus pass petition at Parliament’s website here.

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