Winning tip: an away day in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides
I’d recommend visiting the Outer Hebrides island of Berneray for an experience of true remoteness. Here you can walk across the rare grassland called the machair to the white, three-mile long West Beach, which looks out into the North Atlantic, and marvel at the immense space and colour of the sea. We stayed at a Gatliff Hebridean hostel, which consists of two converted crofts where for about £20 a night for a bunk you will be staying in probably one of the most peaceful locations in the world. Berneray is between North Uist and Harris. Nik Fernee
Ancient and modern digs in the Highlands
Brochs of Coigach are stone dwellings north of Ullapool in Scotland’s far north-west. Photograph: John Paul
Perched above the sea in remote Achiltibuie, the Brochs of Coigach are two stunning stone dwellings that blend ancient design with modern luxury. With panoramic views of the Summer Isles, red deer grazing nearby and sea eagles overhead, it’s a true escape into the wild. Visit in autumn for fiery sunsets, crisp air and a chance to see the northern lights. The midges are gone, the beach below is perfect for evening walks and the silence is unforgettable. Dean
Greek island without the crowds
Astypalaia is one of the more remote Greek islands. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy
Astypalaia has the same pretty, white-washed houses you see on famous Greek islands, but it’s far less busy. The main town, Chora, is beautiful, with buildings leading up a hill to an old castle. We rented a small apartment and spent our days on quiet pebble beaches that we had almost to ourselves. It’s a genuinely peaceful place where you can properly switch off from the noise of modern life. This Dodecanese island is the focus of a scheme for emission-free transport, with generous grants to replace petrol and diesel vehicles with electric ones. Roy
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Under the stars of Carmarthenshire
Y Caban was crafted from the local forests of Carmarthenshire
We woke to birdsong and the sounds of a rushing brook and ate breakfast while the morning light streamed through the windows of Y Caban, near the village of Login in Carmarthenshire. Hearing its story of being created from local forests was as fascinating as the walk through the tall woods that surround it. We watched red kites soar over the valley before stargazing under a sky free from light pollution. Such tranquility and connection with nature is hard to find in the UK these days, but the benefits are palpable – we left rested and refreshed, more so than any recent holiday. Hannah
Magical Irish castle
Annes Grove Miniature Castle
We stayed at the Annes Grove Miniature Castle in Castletownroche, County Cork, near to the ruined Augustinian Bridgetown Priory and Blackwater Castle, in what felt like the middle of nowhere. It was magical. The Irish Landmark Trust has renovated it for people to stay in, complete with a wood-burning stove and comfy gothic bed. I found there to be nothing like having a whiskey by the fire surrounded by beautiful nature – and being able to say you spent a weekend in a castle, how cool is that! Lotte
Delta ‘on the edge of the world’, Romania
White pelicans (pictured) and Dalmatian pelicans are found in the delta. Photograph: Porojnicu/Getty Images
The Danube Delta in Romania feels like the edge of the world at the eastern frontier of the EU. Accessible by boat from the port of Tulcea, it is one of Europe’s largest and most vital wetland ecosystems and is full of wildlife. We stayed at the Delta Boutique & Carmen Silva Resort in Crișan, an old working fishing village where tranquil evenings are broken only by the lively chorus of frogs. Guided boat safaris, including to see pelicans, can be arranged through the hotel. Josh
‘Shrouded in fog and empty space’ in the Faroe Islands
Gjógv is a village of turf-roofed cottages. Photograph: Caroline Brundle Bugge/Getty Images
Some years ago, having read Girl, Interrupted author Susanna Kaysen’s bleakly beautiful account of an anthropologist’s stay in the Faroe Islands (Far Afield), I took myself to what is now the Hotel Djurhuus on the edge of the capital, Tórshavn, to experience the archipelago for myself. Expertly guided by Tora tours, I endured a dreadful but thankfully short sea crossing to Mykines to see puffins, visited the beautiful villages of Saksun (population: eight) and Gjógv (a metropolis of 31 inhabitants) and explored Tinganes, location of the islands’ parliament. It was the most wonderful, wild and remote August week, shrouded in fog and empty space. Abigail
Off-grid in Northumberland
The River Coquet in Northumberland national park. Photograph: David Taylor Photography/Alamy
Last October we had a wonderful week in the most remote part of Northumberland – the Upper Coquet valley. Our stay was an off-grid, simple bunk barn called Nightfold at the top of the valley. We spent a week living like woodland creatures in autumn – eating heartily, keeping ourselves warm (thanks to the wood-burning stove) and sleeping. In the daytime, we did long walks where we didn’t see a single other person – only sheep, deer, birds and squirrels. At night there were endless stars, the Milky Way and reading by candlelight. Bliss. Ben
Free camping in Portugal’s mountains
The Serra da Estrela mountains. Photograph: ARoxo/Getty Images
The sleepy villages of continental Portugal’s highest mountain range, the Serra da Estrela, are a world away from the coastal honeypots of Lisbon and Porto. In Vila Cova à Coelheira there is a free campsite on the banks of the Alva river, reached via an old Roman bridge that you can swim under (or jump in from if you’re feeling brave). Even better, there is a bar at the river beach that serves excellent pica-pau – pork braised in wine, with onions and pickles. During my stay there I never encountered more than one or two others camping. David
Croatia’s Mljet island is not for the jet set
A monastery on a lake on the island of Mljet in Croatia. Photograph: Vedrana2701/Alamy
Away from Dubrovnik’s cruise-ship crowds, Mljet island feels like another world: pine forests dipping into turquoise bays, an ancient monastery on a tiny islet in the middle of a saltwater lake, and hardly a sound beyond cicadas and the wind. I stayed in a simple family-run cottage just outside the national park gates, where evenings meant grilled fish on the terrace and nights under skies thick with stars. Days were spent kayaking across mirror-still water and walking through pine-scented trails where I rarely met another soul. It felt like stepping into a slower rhythm of life, a corner of Europe the 21st century has politely passed by. Mark Adamson
One UK city was named the “world’s most beautiful city” last year, and it’s not just the golden ratio of its architecture that makes it a must-visit.
‘World’s most beautiful city’ has ‘peaceful’ Christmas market without the crowds(Image: George Standen via Getty Images)
Last year, a British city was crowned the “world’s most beautiful city” by research that analysed the golden ratio of architecture in cities across the globe. Not only did it triumph over domestic favourites like London and Edinburgh, but it also surpassed Venice, Italy to secure the number one position.
The research, carried out by Online Mortgage Advisor, scrutinised over 2,400 buildings throughout the UK using Google Street View, assessing how closely their architecture adhered to the ancient mathematical principle of the 1:1.618 golden ratio.
The results showed that structures following this ratio are more aesthetically appealing to the human eye, and nowhere demonstrates this more effectively than in Chester, which achieved a remarkable 83.7%.
That’s superior to Venice (83.3%), London (82%), and every other city examined worldwide, reports the Express.
However, there’s more to this historic treasure than flawless proportions – particularly during the Christmas period.
If you’re seeking a winter break that offers traditional festive appeal without the chaos and crowds of bigger city centres, Chester’s Christmas Market could be exactly what you need.
Situated beneath the spires of its 1,000 year old cathedral and the impressive Victorian Gothic town hall, this market has secured its reputation thanks to a laid-back atmosphere and scenic backdrop.
Chester Christmas market has the classic festive charm without the crowds of larger city crowds(Image: Getty)
According to a survey about the finest UK cities involving over 4,000 British participants conducted last year, Which? discovered that Chester’s Christmas Market ranked amongst the premier choices due to its appeal and relaxing experience.
The report suggested: “For a peaceful festive day out, consider Chester’s Christmas Market.
“Though it was pipped to the post for the title of best medium-sized city by Bath, it scored higher for its ease of getting around, parking and lack of crowds.”
Despite its modest size – with approximately 70 carefully selected stalls – the market offers everything a Christmas enthusiast could desire.
From fragrant candles and artisan liqueurs to upcycled cutlery and locally crafted items, visitors can anticipate finding high-quality, thoughtful presents.
Europe’s most beautiful cities have a strong contender in the form of one underrated spot that has epic coastal views and yet doesn’t have tourist crowds like other hotspots
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It’s been named Europe’s most ‘peaceful’ city(Image: Getty Images)
You’d be forgiven for thinking that a beautiful European city rivalling Santorini with whitewashed buildings and postcard-worthy sea views would also be crammed with tourists.
However there’s one breathtaking spot in Italy which offers just that, but it’s often overlooked by tourists who flock to hotspots such as Amalfi, Positano and Rome when it comes to Italian getaways.
Ostuni isn’t necessarily a hidden gem, but it’s not a classic spot for city breaks despite offering some incredible restaurants and hotels, charming beaches and a hilltop location that means you can get unrivalled views of those crystal-clear waters in the Mediterranean Sea.
Of course there’s more to Ostuni than just gorgeous views. The city is packed with antique shops, hidden eateries serving up that world-famous Italian cuisine, quirky shops and hotels to suit a wide array of budgets. It’s also a great base for exploring the rest of Puglia as it’s within driving distance of plenty of spots such as the likes of Valle d’Itria. (If you are going to drive, take note that the city’s historic centre has strict rules around which cars are allowed in, and often it’s not those available to tourists).
Ostuni is an underrated Italian city(Image: Getty Images)
Ostuni boasts balmy weather all through summer, but you can enjoy temperatures of approximately 26C well into September if you do want to avoid peak holiday season crowds in the rest of the region.
As for the beaches, expect pebbled and rocky shores rather than pristine sandy beaches (although you can find a few such as Lido Onda Blu), but they all boast picture-perfect clear waters. Top-rated beaches on Tripadvisor including Spiaggia di Torre Pozzelle and Spiaggia Costa Merlata are popular with locals thanks to those unrivalled views.
The lack of overtourism has seen Ostuni named Europe’s ‘most peaceful’ destination, in a recent study conducted by the travel insiders at Omio. They analysed over 500 destinations to identify the top 100 least crowded spots, and then examined the likes of top-rated Tripadvisor attractions in each location. According to the data, Ostuni ranked as the best overseas destination in Europe. Nancy in France took the second spot, closely followed by the Greek island of Santorini.
The latter may come as a surprise considering this year has seen tourists needing to queue up to get to some of the best viewpoints, restaurants being crowded and prices being hiked up as peak holiday season hit. However, it’s worth noting that these are in concentrated areas on the island, such as the village of Oia. There is actually a quieter side to Santorini including hidden hot springs, and black sand beaches such as Mesa Pigadia and White Beach.
The island is also taking steps to combat the large numbers of tourists that come to its shores. This has included recently upping tourist fees for cruise passengers. Visitors who arrive on cruises between June to September face costs of €20 per night, which will need to be paid at the port.
Meanwhile on the mainland, tourists can expect to pay a tourist tax of €8.00 per night between April and October, or €2.00 per night outside of this peak season. This is compared to the previous charge of €0.50, making for a huge jump. The new charges have been brought in to reportedly help fund efforts against climate change, as well as improving infrastructure and disaster prevention.
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To the south of popular parkland the Meadows, Bruntsfield Links offers a quieter, calmer stretch of green, free of Big Top entertainment. Book a table at cute wine bar and cafe Margot for brunch and order french toast with ginger-poached pears and bay-leaf custard, or hot smoked trout with leek fritters. Later in the day stop by for oysters, small plates and natural wine by the glass. Bag a window-seat or a table outside to enjoy views of Arthur’s Seat, which at sunset seems to glow pink and gold. Sister restaurant LeftField on the same corner is gorgeous for an elegant dinner with the same incredible views.
Portobello beach
Space aplenty … Portobello beach. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy
This is Edinburgh’s seaside so hardly a secret, and on hot days it does get busy. However, compared with beaches on the south coast, it might as well be the Hebrides. Only the middle few sections nearest the cafes get truly crowded and it’s such a long stretch that there’s plenty of space to find your own little sandy idyll. Head to Shrimp Wreck for a fishfinger sarnie, or pick up a slice of Civerino’s pizza and a local Bellfield beer. Unsurprisingly there’s excellent ice-cream to be found; try a scoop at Oscar’s Gelato. Lothian Buses 19 or 26 from Princes Street.
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is the centre of the festival action, but even here there are quiet escapes, usually into a close, the narrow alleyways that make Edinburgh’s Old Town so unique. Dunbar’s Close is a favourite, off Canongate towards the bottom of the Royal Mile. It’s a 17th-century-styled formal garden with benches and one of the city’s most tranquil hideaways. Pick up a delicious direct-trade Brazilian coffee and pastel de nata from Santu Coffee and enjoy the peace, just steps from the party. Similarly, Lady Stair’s Close, home to the free Writers’ Museum, is ideal for a quick breather. You’ll find it just off the Lawnmarket towards the top of the Royal Mile.
The Shore, Leith
Scandi style … the Shore, Leith. Photograph: robertharding/Alamy
Often compared to Copenhagen, this is Edinburgh’s waterfront eating and drinking destination. Do what the locals do and sit by the river with a cold pint of local beer from Malt and Hops, or discover the tap room at Moonwake Beer Co. Try a huge takeaway sandwich from Domenico’s for lunch – pre-order for speed. Or for indoor dining, new seafood restaurant Barry Fish is the hottest reservation this summer. Edinburgh Trams to the Shore.
The Royal Botanic Garden and Canonmills
Art of horticulture … Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
A true jewel in Edinburgh’s crown, the lush Royal Botanic Garden spans 72 acres with a collection dating back to the 17th century. Catch your breath among the trees, and don’t miss the panoramic views of the Edinburgh skyline from the lawns of Inverleith House. Nearby, I rate Singapore Coffee House for kaya toast and slow-cooked eggs, or roti canai with pickled vegetables. Traditional cafe Betty and George is a cosy spot for tea and cake or a bowl of soup. For a more formal meal, The Tollhouse has a great set lunch and overlooks the river. Lothian Buses 9, 23 or 27 from The Mound.
Stockbridge
Cult bakery … Lannan.
This bustling neighbourhood is a home to many of the city’s best restaurants, yet escapes much of the festival madness. For a top-tier picnic head to Herbie of Edinburgh for deli treats, or Mootz General Store for freshly baked schiacciata sandwiches – the classic is mortadella, stracciatella soft cheese[added soft cheese because it confusingly is also soup and gelato] and pistachio pesto. If you can bear the queue, add perfect patisserie from cult bakery Lannan. Enjoy your wares in Inverleith Park, there’s a big pond with swans and ducks, mature trees, and if you’re travelling with children, a good playpark. You can also walk from Stockbridge along a pretty wooded stretch of the Water of Leith path. For a slap-up Italian trattoria-style lunch, try Sotto or the excellent value set lunch at Stockbridge Eating House. Lothian Buses 29, 33 or 37 from South Bridge.
Newhaven
Stay for sunset … Newhaven Lighthouse. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
Take the tram to the final stop and discover Newhaven harbour. Walk along the waterfront to Wardie Bay, a tucked away beach and a favourite local swimming spot. Return to Newhaven and order fish and chips from The Fishmarket to eat outside watching the boats bob in the harbour. Maybe stay for the sunset with a cold glass of wine on the terrace, then it’s an easy tram back to the city centre. Edinburgh Trams to Newhaven.
Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park
Stick to the paths! Edinburgh Old Town seen from Arthurs Seat. Photograph: Craig Steedman Photography/Alamy
A city with a mountain in the middle? Pretty iconic, and also the perfect place to feel miles away from it all. The main route to the top can get busy, but there’s a network of paths around the park to explore. Check the noticeboards and do stick to the paths, there are steep drops. For an easy option, follow Queens Drive around the bottom of the mountain, taking in Dunsapie Loch and St Margaret’s Loch and giving 360-degree views of the city, across the Forth to Fife and to the Pentland Hills. It takes about an hour and a half to walk and is bike, buggy and wheelchair friendly. Pick up a sandwich from Alby’s Southside to take with you.
Union Canal: Fountainbridge
The canal and accompanying path goes all the way to Glasgow through Falkirk, so you can walk for miles if you feel so inclined. Start at Lochrin Basin, then stroll to Harrison Park (1.2 miles), past brightly painted residential houseboats and the Leamington Lift Bridge. For a longer walk, continue to Slateford Aqueduct (2.5 miles) which carries the canal for 152 metres above the Water of Leith and the road below. A path beside the bridge takes you to the Water of Leith Conservation Trust visitor centre, loos and a cafe. In the area, try welcoming Kafe Kweer for coffee, pastries and hearty vegetarian lunches, or The Fountain for pub food and pints before retracing your steps back along the canal, duly refreshed.
The Pitt, Granton
Appetising … Soul Water Sauna in Granton.
Newly reopened in a new location earlier this year, The Pitt is a street-food destination worth knowing about. It’s on the waterfront at Granton with views across the Firth of Forth, easily accessible by bike or a 10-minute walk from the bus stop. Vendors change but currently include Choola Nepalese street food and Lebanese wraps from Lazeez. There’s a big indoor bar area and regular events. On site you’ll also find Soul Water Sauna, with two saunas and cold water plunge pools: a unique way to work up an appetite. From here you can walk along the promenade to Cramond village (2.3 miles) and if the tides are right, even walk out to Cramond island over the causeway. Lothian Buses 22 from Lothian Road to Waterfront Avenue then a 10-minute walk. The Pitt is open Thursday to Sunday.
Lothian Buses and Edinburgh Trams are contactless, tap on and tap off, single fares are £2.20, capped at £5 per day. Download the Edinburgh Bus and Tram app to plan routes and track bus times.
Beach lovers looking for a ‘peaceful’ spot that’s ideal for a day out or watching beautiful summer sunsets
Beachgoers love St Annes-on-the-Sea, Lancashire(Image: Getty)
Blackpool is one of the UK’s most beloved holiday resorts, home to a gorgeous sandy beach and other attractions. However, beachgoers looking for a seaside getaway might also love a lesser-known beach found nearby.
St Annes Beach is well worth a visit for holidaymakers or day-trippers who find themselves near Lytham St Annes. The smaller resort is a short drive from Blackpool and less than 90 minutes by car from central Manchester. Visitors love the “peaceful” beach, recommending it as the perfect spot to watch the sun go down in the summer.
Posting online as @hannxhml, a Manchester-based blogger shared a video praising the beach. Her video said: “You found the most peaceful beach one hour away from Manchester.” Her caption continued: “This beach was so clean and quiet, definitely recommend for a day trip and for amazing sunset views!”
She added: “It is a bit of a walk to the water so it’s worth noting if you want to swim, but it made for a nice walk.” Elsewhere, a blogger who posts on TikTok as @zahidrahman also praised the beach. He wrote: “St anne’s beach – only 1hr from manchester – must visit this summer to watch the sunset.”
Both videos impressed viewers, who agreed the beach makes for a great day out. Someone replied: “What a beautiful beach.” Another response read: “One of my favourite places.”
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Someone shared: “Love it there. My friend lives in Lytham St Annes I’m honestly jealous,” and a commenter joked: “Takes 4 days to reach the water. Amazing beach though.”
Visit St Annes says the beach is lovely year-round, though it shines brightest during the summer months. The website says: “Huge, open acres of golden sand front against a traditional Victorian seaside seafront at St Annes.
“It’s a lovely place to enjoy a stroll, look around the gardens, and take in the seaside vibe. Listen to children playing and soak up the fresh air and weather. Lovely at any time of the year, it really comes into its own when the sun shines!”
The beach has an average rating of 4.5 out of five stars on TripAdvisor, and it’s also ranked as the number one thing to do in the area. One recent review said: “St Annes’s beach is gem of place. We had booked 2 huts.
Visitors love walking along the long stretch of sand(Image: Getty)
“Majority time spent on beach. Kids enjoyed. Well equipped and maintained facilities. Clean toilets. Only missed is the sea water was too far away. Did try to walk towards but were unsure about tide time so came back. Must visit.”
Someone else wrote: “A lovely spacious beach. We have also rented the beach huts in the past. Check the tide times as the sea is rarely seen here but it’s because it’s in an estuary.
“Parking is accessible, they have lovely cafes all around and you will have fun here for sure. Very compact sand just a little bit in. Pillowy closer to the edges.”
After Doha helped mediate, Qatari diplomat Mohammed bin Abdulaziz al-Khulaifi says country is committed to efforts to de-escalate conflicts.
Qatari diplomat Mohammed bin Abdulaziz al-Khulaifi has welcomed the peace agreement between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), saying that it came after several rounds of talks, some of which were held in Doha.
The deal, signed in Washington, DC, on Friday with backing from the United States and Qatar, will see Rwandan soldiers withdraw from the DRC and the two countries set up mechanisms to enhance trade and security cooperation.
“We hope that the sides will adhere to the terms of the agreement to de-escalate and bolster the security and stability of the … region,” al-Khulaifi, who serves as minister of state at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, told Al Jazeera.
Al-Khulaifi added that the meeting between Congolese President Felix Tshisekedi and his Rwandan counterpart Paul Kagame, hosted by Emir Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani in Doha in March, was followed by a series of talks, paving the way for Friday’s deal.
“Qatar enjoys excellent relationships with both countries and has earned the trust of both countries as a mediator and international partner trying to resolve these issues,” he said.
“Doha was a platform for these meetings, and we contributed [to reaching the agreement] with the US.”
Congolese President Felix Tshisekedi, right, and his Rwandan counterpart Paul Kagame meet with Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani in Doha, Qatar, March 18, 2025 [File: Qatar’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs/Handout via Reuters]
The Reuters news agency reported earlier this month that Qatar presented a draft peace proposal to Rwanda and the DRC after negotiations in Doha.
On Friday, the US Department of State said the US, Qatar, the African Union and Togo “will continue to engage both parties to ensure implementation of the obligations laid out in the agreement”.
The agreement has sparked hopes of ending the conflict in the DRC, where the Rwanda-backed M23 armed group has been advancing in the resource-rich east of the country.
The renewed violence had raised fears of igniting a full-blown conflict, akin to the wars that the DRC endured in the late 1990s, involving several African countries, which killed millions of people.
“Qatar fully believes in dialogue as the cornerstone for resolving conflict through peaceful means,” al-Khulaifi said.
“Qatar believes that mediation is a pillar of its foreign policy. That’s why, hopefully, you will find Qatar always racing to try to resolve issues between countries, even countries that are geographically far from Qatar.”
Qatar has played a key role in securing diplomatic deals in various conflicts across the world over the past years. Most recently, it helped mediate the ceasefire agreement that ended the 12-day war between Israel and Iran.
“What pleases me is that this agreement came days after another agreement which Qatar contributed to with the US – and that’s the ceasefire between Iran and Israel,” al-Khulaifi said. “Qatar will not spare any efforts to engage in more attempts to de-escalate and pursue peaceful means to end these conflicts.”
American history has the receipts. As we approach the 250th anniversary of this nation’s birth, it ought to be common knowledge that putting the National Guard into the center of turmoil is not to be taken at all lightly. Federalizing the California Guard to quell a supposed insurrection on the streets of greater Los Angeles is a bold move of presidential showmanship and look-tough opportunism. It is also risky on many fronts.
We have been here before, and we would be wise to heed history’s caution. In the spring of 1894, a nationwide railroad strike, spreading out from the outskirts of Chicago, paralyzed freight and passenger rail traffic up and down California. Strikers took to the streets, occupied railroad depots, often with their families, waved signs, and erected tents and hastily constructed shanties. In Oakland, strikers who had “killed” a locomotive covered it in black crepe.
Political leaders and railroad officials insisted that the strikers were insurrectionists ripping at the fabric of the republic. But the public did not necessarily see things the same way. Strikers who were hunkered down in Northern California depots took in provisions from farmers loyal to their cause. A U.S. marshal sent to Sacramento to clear them out and get the trains moving was beaten up and insisted later that the local police force was sympathetic to the strikers.
Judging the Sacramento situation as an insurrection, Gov. H.H. Markham of Pasadena called up the National Guard, which mustered first in San Francisco on July 3. Some elderly Civil War veterans volunteered for duty but were politely turned away. Instead, young California guardsmen, each given 20 rounds of ammunition, marched to the Bay amid a jeering crowd, took a ferry to Oakland and tried to get to Sacramento by train.
But all train service had been interrupted by the strike, and skilled rail operators did not want to cross the picket lines. After nine hours, the exhausted guardsmen arrived in Sacramento early on the morning of July 4 — having taken a train through a circuitous route to avoid trouble. They marched to the city armory, then on to the occupied depot, where they were met by Sacramento members of the National Guard who were already deployed. Guardsmen — about 1,000 weekend warriors — stood in the hot sun, rifles at the ready alongside the Gatling gun they brought, facing the railroad strikers camped out in the depot with their wives and children. One Guardsman’s gun went off accidentally, killing a bystander. Officers ordered their men to fix their bayonets and, if ordered to shoot, to “aim to kill.”
One Sacramento unit reported that its men would not fire on their friends and relatives. Other Guardsmen wore their sympathies on their sleeves and lapels: pro-striker buttons. The strikers and their families began to mingle with the phalanx of guardsmen. “Frank, if you kill me you make your sister a widow,” one striker informed her brother-in-law in the Guard. Some guardsmen removed the ammunition from their weapons; others lowered them and just wandered away — toward the lemonade and ice that the protesters themselves provided. The strikers stayed in the depot for weeks. The whole thing was a chaotic farce.
Matters were hardly any less tense in Southern California. People lined the streets of downtown Los Angeles, chanting and cheering for the strikers, many of whom wore American flag lapels. Photographs of goings on in Sacramento and the Bay Area got passed from one Angeleno to another in the crowd. Guardsmen in L.A. expressed the same kind of trepidation about bringing militarized force to bear on the strikers. “If we had to fight Indians or some common enemy,” one guardsman offered in a revelatory admission, “we might have some fun and excitement. But this idea of shooting down American citizens simply because they are on strike for what they consider their rights is a horse of another color. All of the boys are against it from first to last, and many are in sympathy with the strikers.”
In hindsight, the federal and state response to the rail strike of 1894 appears to have lacked some consideration of unintended consequences. Calling in the Guard only created chaos, emboldened the strikers and, for a time at least, sustained much of the public’s support. The federal government, with some seeing 1894 as “the greatest crisis in our history,” allied with the rail corporations in a set of legal maneuverings that led to the deployment of federal troops across the country. As the strike dissipated, each side tried to take the high ground of intention and behavior: The crisis was lawlessness or it was unwarranted government overreach.
Though it is too soon to know how things will play out here in L.A. this time, nothing looks good from the rough scenes in downtown and the adjacent freeway exits and entrances.
Mark Twain said that “history never repeats itself, but it does often rhyme.” Here we have that rhyme written in the latest Los Angeles verse of our tense world. The administration’s move to federalize the Guard in the name of quelling a domestic insurrection has poured more gasoline onto the tinder of our times here in the Southland.
Deverell is a professor of history at the USC Dornsife College of Letters, Arts & Sciences.
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Ideas expressed in the piece
The article argues that historical deployments of the National Guard during labor disputes, such as the 1894 railroad strike, often escalated tensions rather than resolving them. Governor Markham’s decision to mobilize the Guard in Sacramento led to accidental violence, internal dissent among troops, and public sympathy for strikers, undermining the state’s authority[1][3].
It emphasizes the Guard’s reluctance to use force against civilians, citing instances where soldiers removed ammunition, mingled with protesters, or openly sympathized with strikers. One Guardsman expressed discomfort with targeting fellow citizens, framing the conflict as a moral dilemma rather than a law enforcement issue[3].
The author draws parallels between 1894 and contemporary Los Angeles, warning that federalizing the Guard risks repeating past mistakes by inflaming protests and polarizing public opinion. He critiques the framing of labor actions as “insurrections,” arguing this justification enables disproportionate militarized responses[3].
Different views on the topic
Contemporary government and railroad officials in 1894 viewed the strike as an existential threat to commerce and lawfulness. U.S. Marshals and military leaders prioritized restoring rail operations, with Colonel Shafter’s Regular Army troops swiftly securing railroad property in Los Angeles to ensure mail delivery and freight movement[1][3].
Legal authorities insisted the strikers’ occupation of depots and disruption of rail services constituted unlawful obstruction. Marshal Baldwin’s failed attempt to clear Sacramento’s depot without military support was cited as evidence of the need for Guard intervention to enforce court orders[1][3].
Proponents of military deployment argued that the strike’s nationwide scale—paralyzing over 20,000 miles of track—required decisive action to prevent economic collapse. The Pullman Strike’s disruption of interstate commerce was framed as a crisis justifying federal troop involvement under constitutional authority[2][4].
