northern

FINLAND has a staggering three million saunas to its five million residents.

So, when my guide tells me “sauna isn’t just our culture, it’s our way of life”, I believe him.

The tradition has been around for thousands of years here, with many treating these mini hot houses as a place to socialise, much like we would in the pub on a Friday night.

These saunas aren’t like the ones you find at your local gym, though. They are on a whole other level — think electric, wood-burning and the oldest kind, smoke saunas. And you’re expected to sit in the heated cabin, where the air is a sweltering 100C, for hours.

My adventure to the Nordic country takes me to Jyvaskyla in central Finland and the city of Tampere, which is known as the sauna capital of the world.

There are over 50 in the city centre alone. Sataman Viilu is one of the best, with two-hour sessions costing just €17 for use of its three saunas, two hot tubs, and lake-water plunge.

GROUNDED

Major European airport SHUTS with all flights halted as black ice sparks chaos

RIDE ON

I went to the European theme park where you ‘travel through time’

My advice for newbies is to make sure you start with a sauna first. Being hot makes the transition easier because you will still feel warm when you brace the lake water.

I’d also recommend wearing a pair of thick socks, which will slow down the rate at which the cold takes over.

And while it may seem obvious, remember to breathe. Controlling your breath can be hard when you’re submerged in icy water, so focus on inhaling and exhaling through the chill.

You might think this activity is the kind to be enjoyed during the summer, when both Jyvaskyla and Tampere transform into a flowery paradise, but it’s popular all year round. The cool weather doesn’t matter to those living in Finland, even when temperatures go well below 0C.

One local told me: “We don’t have bad weather, just bad clothing.”
They’re out and about all the time, ice skating on lakes or hosting car and horse rallies on the frozen waters.

Magical bedroom

So, no surprise that in Finnish language there are hundreds of words for snow, depending on how it falls, whether it turns to slush, or if it lays like a thick blanket.

You may think warming stews, therefore, would be the focus of Finnish cooking.

And although these are popular in many parts, Finland is largely known for its blueberry farming. Throughout the year you can pick up tasty jams and blueberry juice — pay a visit to Lepomaki Farm if you’re keen to learn more.

Rich fish such as salmon, perch and herring are a staple in these diets, too.
Kuokkala Manor in Jyvaskyla is an excellent spot to sample local dishes — the beef tartare was delicious and came with a wintry topping of crunchy kale and cranberry.

If you’re staying close to Tampere, I loved Ravintola Kajo, a Michelin Guide restaurant in the city centre. While it is fancy, offering an 11-course tasting experience, wine pairings and tea-based drinks, there’s no pressure whatsoever to dress up.

Make sure to explore the Tampere Market Hall while you’re here, too. It’s the largest indoor market in the Nordic countries and dates back to 1901. Inside, you’ll find locals picking up fresh fish, coffee and pastries like Karjalanpiirakka, which has a thin rye crust and a savoury filling (usually rice porridge).

For dessert lovers, I’d highly recommend a cardamom donut from Pyynikin Munkkikahvila, a cafe within the market. It’s delicious and not too sweet.

If you’re worried about the chill getting too much, then book a stay at Lapland Hotel Arena, a ten-minute drive down the road where some of the bedrooms feature private saunas.

I enjoyed an early morning session each day while reading a book.
If you’re keen to stay closer to Jyvaskyla, The Boutique Hotel Yopuu has a cosy, family-run feel to it with each of its 26 rooms designed to look completely different.

But nothing could compare to my stay at the Hankasalmi and Revontuli Lakeland Village on the outskirts of Jyvaskyla.

I slept so cosily inside my All Sky Aurora Glass Igloo, which came with a little kitchen and living area — although the highlight was undoubtedly the magical bedroom, surrounded entirely by windows and with a glass roof to soak up the views.

You may even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights from the comfort of your bed.

Sadly, it was cloudy the day I was there, but watching the snow fall across the glossy, white landscape was spectacular.

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