Lights

THE birch trees either side of us become a blur as we speed through the snowy woodland, our sled being masterfully pulled by a pack of energetic dogs.

Looking up, I spot a sheet of vibrant green and fiery pink spread across the night sky.

It had always been a dream of mine to experience the elusive Northern Lights.

Now I was getting the chance to do it in the best way possible: a Norwegian Fjords voyage.

February is one of the best times of year to see the natural phenomenon in Norway, although you stand a pretty good chance at any point from late September to April.

My partner Gemma and I were travelling with Ambassador Cruise Line, which has affordable sailings from the UK, removing the need for a flight.

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Our home for the next couple of weeks, Ambition, was a modern 1,200-passenger vessel that oozes glamour with plenty of polished wood and brass, and a cosy, relaxed ambience.

Cabins are luxurious, spotless and well-appointed — refreshed each day by doting “butlers”.

Everyone on board has a complimentary dining place in either the light and airy Buckingham restaurant or smaller, more intimate Holyrood, both of which serve high-quality food with plenty of options for vegetarians like Gemma.

There is also the buffet-style Borough Market which serves delicious meals from early to late.

Plus there is speciality dining such as the fabulous Saffron, an Indian restaurant which left Gemma in raptures about the veggie selection platter.

The highlight for me, however, was the Chef’s Table experience where we were treated to a fascinating tour of the ship’s galleys before executive chef Cleo Murzello showcased his culinary skills in nine sensational courses paired with wines.

Just be prepared that you won’t feel able to move from your seat afterwards!

When we weren’t exploring the fjords, on board entertainment kept us busy every day with games — we couldn’t keep away from the high-prize £3-a-play bingo — West-End worthy theatre performances and fascinating talks including how to photograph the Aurora Borealis.

With seven bars, six restaurants, a shopping galleria, library, games room and incredible spa there’s always something going on.

Then there’s the shore experiences with everything from snowshoeing and rib-boat riding to ice bars visits and cable car trips available.

On our first morning in Norway, we woke to see low rocky islands sliding past as we got our first glimpse of the fjords — the long sea inlets between majestic mountains.

Alesund is one of Norway’s most beautiful towns. The best way to see it is to climb the 418 steps to its hillside view point and reward yourself with a svele pancake from the cafe at the top.

Then wander around the shops filled with the Norwegian obsession of trolls and slippers, then the gorgeous harbour.

Next morning, after crossing into the Arctic Circle, Ambition glided between snow-covered peaks up Straumsfjorden to the city of Tromso.

Here we took the mountain cable car to the top of snow-clad Storsteinen, 1,382ft above sea level.

The views were spectacular — as was the high-altitude beer at the summit cafe.

But it wasn’t until our evening dog-sledding adventure that we finally got what we came for.

As darkness fell the night sky began to bubble and split.

From behind the dark mass of mountains, a collection of dancing green fingers reached upward and outwards, curling and filling the sky.

It couldn’t have been a more perfect setting as the panting huskies ploughed through the snow.

More excitement was to come, though.

Cruise stops include the frozen port of Alta, in the Finnmark area of northern Norway, home of the Sami people.

Those keen to learn about the culture can book tours which include a visit to a village and reindeer sledding.

Instead, we headed to Alta Museum to take in some of the 6,000 amazing rock paintings dating from 4,200BC, discovered in 1973.

If ice snow experiences are more your thing, try the port of Narvik, home to a breathtaking Arctic train ride and polar wildlife park.

Or there’s the city of Bergen, where you can pick up souvenirs from local shops that line the cobbled streets.

I may have returned home with a pair of troll slippers but it’s the memory of Northern Lights that I’ll be cherishing for years to come.

Even the pictures on my phone don’t do it justice.

FINLAND has a staggering three million saunas to its five million residents.

So, when my guide tells me “sauna isn’t just our culture, it’s our way of life”, I believe him.

The tradition has been around for thousands of years here, with many treating these mini hot houses as a place to socialise, much like we would in the pub on a Friday night.

These saunas aren’t like the ones you find at your local gym, though. They are on a whole other level — think electric, wood-burning and the oldest kind, smoke saunas. And you’re expected to sit in the heated cabin, where the air is a sweltering 100C, for hours.

My adventure to the Nordic country takes me to Jyvaskyla in central Finland and the city of Tampere, which is known as the sauna capital of the world.

There are over 50 in the city centre alone. Sataman Viilu is one of the best, with two-hour sessions costing just €17 for use of its three saunas, two hot tubs, and lake-water plunge.

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My advice for newbies is to make sure you start with a sauna first. Being hot makes the transition easier because you will still feel warm when you brace the lake water.

I’d also recommend wearing a pair of thick socks, which will slow down the rate at which the cold takes over.

And while it may seem obvious, remember to breathe. Controlling your breath can be hard when you’re submerged in icy water, so focus on inhaling and exhaling through the chill.

You might think this activity is the kind to be enjoyed during the summer, when both Jyvaskyla and Tampere transform into a flowery paradise, but it’s popular all year round. The cool weather doesn’t matter to those living in Finland, even when temperatures go well below 0C.

One local told me: “We don’t have bad weather, just bad clothing.”
They’re out and about all the time, ice skating on lakes or hosting car and horse rallies on the frozen waters.

Magical bedroom

So, no surprise that in Finnish language there are hundreds of words for snow, depending on how it falls, whether it turns to slush, or if it lays like a thick blanket.

You may think warming stews, therefore, would be the focus of Finnish cooking.

And although these are popular in many parts, Finland is largely known for its blueberry farming. Throughout the year you can pick up tasty jams and blueberry juice — pay a visit to Lepomaki Farm if you’re keen to learn more.

Rich fish such as salmon, perch and herring are a staple in these diets, too.
Kuokkala Manor in Jyvaskyla is an excellent spot to sample local dishes — the beef tartare was delicious and came with a wintry topping of crunchy kale and cranberry.

If you’re staying close to Tampere, I loved Ravintola Kajo, a Michelin Guide restaurant in the city centre. While it is fancy, offering an 11-course tasting experience, wine pairings and tea-based drinks, there’s no pressure whatsoever to dress up.

Make sure to explore the Tampere Market Hall while you’re here, too. It’s the largest indoor market in the Nordic countries and dates back to 1901. Inside, you’ll find locals picking up fresh fish, coffee and pastries like Karjalanpiirakka, which has a thin rye crust and a savoury filling (usually rice porridge).

For dessert lovers, I’d highly recommend a cardamom donut from Pyynikin Munkkikahvila, a cafe within the market. It’s delicious and not too sweet.

If you’re worried about the chill getting too much, then book a stay at Lapland Hotel Arena, a ten-minute drive down the road where some of the bedrooms feature private saunas.

I enjoyed an early morning session each day while reading a book.
If you’re keen to stay closer to Jyvaskyla, The Boutique Hotel Yopuu has a cosy, family-run feel to it with each of its 26 rooms designed to look completely different.

But nothing could compare to my stay at the Hankasalmi and Revontuli Lakeland Village on the outskirts of Jyvaskyla.

I slept so cosily inside my All Sky Aurora Glass Igloo, which came with a little kitchen and living area — although the highlight was undoubtedly the magical bedroom, surrounded entirely by windows and with a glass roof to soak up the views.

You may even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights from the comfort of your bed.

Sadly, it was cloudy the day I was there, but watching the snow fall across the glossy, white landscape was spectacular.