Italys

Prime Minister Meloni is the first EU and NATO country leader to visit the region since the war began.

Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni has met Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani in Doha to discuss the energy crisis due to the ongoing United States and Israeli war on Iran.

Meloni met the Qatari leader on Saturday in Doha, the second stop on a regional tour that began in Saudi Arabia the previous day and continues with a visit to the United Arab Emirates.

The leaders “tackled energy issues … and discussed possible measures to mitigate the shocks suffered”, according to a statement from her office.

Meloni told the Qatari leader that Rome was ready to “contribute to the rehabilitation of Qatari energy infrastructure, which is essential to energy security on a global scale”, the statement added.

Italy is highly dependent on energy imports and is concerned about rising energy prices that have resulted from Iran’s effective blocking of the Strait of Hormuz, a key waterway through which some 20 percent of global oil and liquified natural gas transits.

The Qatari emir’s office said in a statement that both sides had “stressed the need to work towards de-escalation”.

“And prioritise political dialogue and diplomacy as the best way to contain the current crisis in the Middle East and its repercussions on energy and supply chains, and to safeguard energy security in the region,” the statement said.

“They also reviewed bilateral cooperation between the two countries and ways to support and develop it in various fields, particularly in the economy and energy,” it added.

Since the beginning of the war at the end of February, Iran has targeted US and Israeli targets in the region, in addition to targeting Gulf countries, including Qatar.

Iran has targeted Qatar’s energy installations, including a missile strike on Ras Laffan Industrial City, the country’s main gas facility, that caused “significant damage”. Doha says the attacks will affect its natural gas export capacity.

An Italian government source told the AFP news agency that Meloni’s trip to the Gulf aimed to “strengthen relations with these countries and repeat Italy’s support against Iranian attacks”.

The source added that the region was a “crucial source of oil and gas for Italy” and that Meloni is the first leader of a European Union or NATO country to travel to the region since the war broke out.

After meeting the Qatari emir, Meloni travelled to the United Arab Emirates, where she was received by President Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan.

DAUBED on an ancient wall, the curt sentence “All tourists are bastards” isn’t exactly welcoming – but it sums up a growing problem with tourists in one of the world’s most beautiful cities.

In summer, it can be hard to move on Venice’s most popular streets, but visit in low season and discover quiet backwaters where life is much slower — and cheaper — and overall a much more pleasant experience.

My tour guide, Guiliano from Devour Tours, tells me: “Even the fish market, where I shopped with my mother as a child, is only open for traditional reasons these days and, of course, for tourists.”

Venice, some 1,605 years old, has long been one of Italy’s most visited and famous cities. Once known as the home of merchants, its business today is tourism — whether the locals like it or not.

It’s fair to say many of them don’t. Locals are particularly against short-term rentals, saying they have ­hollowed out neighbourhoods, pushing residents out.

Authorities have listened, responding with cruise ship bans, crowd controls and, most infamously, entry fees.

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The €5 fee — which rises to €10 for tourists who book fewer than four days in advance — typically only applies to weekends from April to July, so you won’t be charged on most weekdays.

But other residents understand that Venice needs tourism to survive.

Valentina, the manager at the historic Hilton Molino Stucky hotel’s rooftop Skyline Bar, is among that number.

As I sip on my Rising Tempest cocktail — a Venetian take on a Long Island Ice Tea — and nibble on focaccia, Valentina explains that while tourists can be “a little irritating in high season”, she appreciates they are now part of the city’s make-up.

At the bar — located in a former flour mill on pretty Giudecca island and with stunning views of the main city — she tells me: “Overall we love tourists and we do need them.”

The welcome at my hotel, the beautiful Maison ­Venezia, is warm and as impressive as its location.

In the Cannaregio district, the four-star resort has Murano glass chandeliers and decor featuring traditional Venetian decorative motifs. Just a short stroll to the iconic Rialto Bridge, it is incredibly peaceful.

My room was so quiet, with a balcony overlooking a small canal, it was almost impossible to believe I was in a city, let alone one of the most touristy in Europe.

Even out of season, it’s easy to see Venice’s draw.

It has no roads, just canals, gondolas and crumbling palaces rising straight out of the water. There’s hundreds of years of history, maze-like alleys and sunsets that light the whole lagoon — home to more than 100 islands — on fire.

People have been coming here for years for the romance, the cicchetti — the Venetian alternative to tapas — and a unique feeling of drifting through a city that has not really changed for centuries. Even in low season, tourist must-sees like St Mark’s Square, the Doge’s Palace and the Grand Canal are busy.

However, head just a few streets back and Venice is a totally different experience, even in high summer.

During my tour, we stop off in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, one of the city’s most beautiful squares.

Surprisingly, it’s very quiet, with just a few tour groups and locals milling about.

When I ask Guiliano for the ­reason, he says the square is a contradiction unique to Venice.

“It’s in the city centre, but off the beaten track — and it’s pretty much hidden even in the summer,” he says.

“In London, tourists go back and forth exclusively between Piccadilly and Leicester Square for their entire trip, and avoid places like Shoreditch. It’s the same here.”

While cafes in St Mark’s Square are notoriously pricey — think £12 for a cappuccino — more rustic spots off the main drag sell glasses of delicious Italian wine for about £3.50, cicchetti for £1.30 and pizzas from £7.

Venice in high season might lose a little of its magic, but overtourism is easier to dodge if you pick your moment.

Visit off-season and you’ll find a calmer, more authentic side. Crowds or not, though, there’s nowhere quite like it — and that’s why people keep coming back.

The Azzurri’s failure to reach a third consecutive World Cup continues to send shockwaves through Italian football.

Italy coach Gennaro Gattuso has left his role “by mutual consent”, three days after the national team failed to qualify for a third consecutive World Cup.

The Italian football federation announced the news in a statement on Friday, thanking Gattuso “for the dedication and passion” during his nine months in charge.

Italy’s chances of reaching this year’s tournament in North America ended on Tuesday after a penalty shootout loss to Bosnia and Herzegovina in a qualifying playoff.

“With a heavy ‌heart, having failed to achieve the goal we had set ourselves, I consider my time in charge of the national team to be over,” Gattuso said in a statement.

“The Azzurri shirt is the most precious asset in football, which is why it is right to facilitate future technical assessments with immediate effect.

“It has been an honour to lead the ⁠national team, and to do so with a group ⁠of lads who have shown commitment and loyalty to the shirt.”

Gattuso was appointed in June on a one-year contract, replacing Luciano Spalletti who was sacked following Italy’s 3-0 defeat by Norway ⁠in their opening group game, although he remained in place for the 2-0 win over Moldova the next ⁠day.

Italy won their next five group games under ⁠Gattuso, but given Norway’s far superior goal difference, they were resigned to another World Cup playoff before the final group game, which Norway won 4-1 at the San Siro.

Italy had lost at ‌the playoff stage for the last two World Cups to Sweden and North Macedonia, respectively, but looked on course to make it this time after a 2-0 win over Northern Ireland ‌in ‌the semifinal, before it all fell apart in Bosnia.

Gattuso’s 10-man team let slip a 1-0 lead and crumbled in the penalty shootout.

His departure comes a day after Italy’s football federation president Gabriele Gravina resigned, along with Gianluigi Buffon, who was the national team’s delegation chief.

If you want to experience the Italian charm, cuisine and history without facing major crowds, swap Rome for a hidden gem on the southeastern heel of the country.

Rome is one of the most popular travel destinations on Earth, thanks to its history, architecture, weather and style.

But for those of us who are tired of navigating hordes of tourists to catch a glimpse of the Fontana di Trevi or queuing up for the best restaurants, there is an alternative.

The southeastern tip of Italy is home to the comune of Lecce, rich in baroque architecture and with the same historical charm that draws millions to the Capital.

Nicknamed the ‘Florence of the South’ for its characteristic style, Lecce has a rich history that is still tangible today in the form of places such as the Church of the Holy Cross (Chiesa di Santa Croce), built in 1353 and completed in 1695, and the Church of Saints Niccolo’ and Cataldo, initially built in 1180.

You’ll also find convents, the Column of St. Oronzo – built to mark the end of the plague – a major Roman-era amphitheatre, three archaeological museums, and Lecce’s own Arc de Triomphe (Arco di Trionfo), said to stand over St. Giusto’s tomb.

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You’ll also find an imposing castle – Il Castello di Carlo V – in which tourists can enjoy cultural tours and seasonal events, originally built by Charles V in the 1500s.

If you like to experience a city by strolling around it, you’re spoiled for choice of where to go in Lecce. The city centre is full of sandstone-coloured grand piazzas, – the biggest one is Piazza del Duomo – ruins and ornate baroque buildings that sit in preserved Roman roads.

Visitors also enjoy the southern Italian tradition of the evening passeggiata, when families stroll at dusk to mark the end of the workday.

It is a city rooted in its artisanal culture, with olive oil and wine being Lecce’s main exports. That reflects in the local food and produce, making local eats accessible and fresh. For a truly authentic taste of Lecce, visit Mercato di Piazza Libertini, the lively central market.

You can also enjoy wine tours, cooking classes, and sample peppery olive oil, known for converting doubters into enthusiasts.

Other delicacies include pasticciotto – pastries filled with custard, ricotta, or, in Lecce, vanilla. You’ll easily find them at the multiple bakeries spread across the centre, with reviewers highlighting Pasticceria Natale and Caffè Alvino.

And if you manage to explore the entire place and still have time to spare, guides recommend taking a bus to the nearby beaches of San Cataldo, Porto Cesareo or Punta Prosciutto, reachable in as little as 40 minutes.

To enjoy optimal weather in Lecce, avoid June, July and August – as temperatures can easily go above 40C – but don’t worry about any other month, as temperatures range from 14C to 28C year-round. Avoiding grey skies is easy, as it doesn’t usually rain more than a week per month, but you’ll have the best luck in May, September, and October.

When looking for a place to stay, many like to enjoy Lecce while dwelling in scenic villas that offer a luxurious experience for a slightly higher price – from around £415 a night. If you’re budgeting, you can still have a great experience at local hotels for around £60 per night.

Overall, Lecce is more affordable than Italy’s major destinations but offers the same rich atmosphere, culture, and cuisine.

To reach Lecce, fly from London to Brindisi Airport, a journey of about three hours. From Brindisi, Lecce is approximately 30 minutes away by straightforward bus or car rides that can be booked in advance.

Once you get to the city, you’ll be able to comfortably reach most sites on foot, but public buses are available to help tourists navigate as well as reach neighbouring towns.

Return flights between London Stansted and Brindisi can cost as little as £30 per person during the milder seasons. If flying from London City Airport or Gatwick, fares typically start at £200.

If you’re already planning a trip to Italy, Lecce is a good day-trip option, as frequent trains connect Lecce with major Italian cities, making access easy.

Many years ago, I swapped languages with a young woman from Trieste. It was during one of our half-English, half-Italian practice hours that she introduced the idea of Trieste, on a map, as possessing the shape of a stomach. She described her city (which is also a province) as being suspended: pressed by the sea on one side, enveloped by Slovenia and the Karst hills on the other, with a short oesophagus attaching it to the body of Italy. She also suggested I read la Conscienza di Zeno – Zeno’s Conscience – Italo Svevo’s devilishly funny hymn to procrastination, self-delusion and walking around in search of a suitable cafe, and warned me about the ruffian wind.

It would be almost two decades before I finally visited Trieste, bringing with me enough anticipation to tempt disappointment (unfounded) and the itinerary of a food writer. I carried the image of a stomach too, fitting in so many ways for this remarkable food city, not least for making its geography vivid, which in turn explains so much about its history. Once a coastal fishing village, colonised by the Romans, raided by the Venetians, entrusted to the Habsburg monarchy in Vienna (for four centuries, which included a prolonged heyday), appended to the newly united Kingdom of Italy, fought over, briefly independent, handed back to Italy in 1954, from which point it developed into what is today one of the most outward looking and dynamic cities in Italy. Trieste, it seems, has digested and assimilated, meaning its complex history is reflected in the architecture, dialect, music, literature, sports, civic nature and multifaceted food culture: surely one of the most intriguing and rewarding in Italy.

Take the coffee culture, for example, the foundations of which were laid in 1719 when Charles VI declared Trieste a free port (and in effect the port of Vienna) and a customs-free zone. One of the goods that arrived was coffee beans, in particular from Ethiopia and Yemen, which in turn saw the creation of aromatic roasting and processing facilities – and the emergence of cafes themselves, many of them designed in the spirit of a Viennese Kaffeehaus. Later, when the railway connected Vienna with Trieste in 1850, these same cafes and pastry shops would serve the cosmopolitan population of a culturally magnetic city that many wanted to be part of. Several of the historic cafes still thrive, their literary connections intact – Svevo, Saba (Trieste poet in excelsis) Joyce, Mann, Rilke – comforting customers with coffee, strudel and no sense of rush, alongside them the economic and social powerhouse that is the Illy brand and a welcome wave of speciality coffee. The port of Trieste still handles 50% of beans entering Italy: it was and remains a city that tastes of salt and smells of coffee.

Another wonderful habit that robustly survives is femo un rebechin, which comes from the verb ribeccare, a typical espressione Triestina meaning to take another peck or bite: that is, to have a snack. The seaport had a burgeoning workforce whose need for a substantial mid-morning snack was met by boisterous and functional “buffets”serving il bollito misto: boiled pork served with potatoes, kraut, mustard and – a totem of Trieste – freshly grated horseradish; or stuffed in a bread roll, alongside soups, stews, goulash, cheeses and cured meats. Heaven! Buffets still punctuate the city and the habit of rebechin is like water, filling every gap and need, be that a prosciutto roll and a beer at 10am, or a glass of Friulian, Slovenian, Croatian or Austrian wine and tasty things on toast at 6.30pm. Trieste has a polyglot profusion of bars, bakeries, takeaways and restaurant-trattoria, some of which focus on the fish caught daily in the gulf, many on dishes whose roots trace back to middle European traditions, others on the superb produce that arrives from the mountainous region of Carnia, the larger Friuli Venezia-Giulia region, Slovenia … the world – Trieste is, after all, a gateway. After dinner, a chance to wander, to find another cafe, or the water’s edge, to look beyond the stomach, and out to sea.