Guatemala

SPECTACULAR volcanos, breathtaking lakes and ancient jungle cities – explore this Central American gem before the crowds hit, says Picture Director Alan Gittos.

Here’s why it’s time to head to the central American country.

1 – Majestic Volcanos 

As your flight descends into Guatemala City, you can’t miss the giant volcanoes that guard the highlands and stir the clouds. 

Volcán de Fuego (Volcano of Fire) in the Sierra Madre mountains is one of the world’s most active stratovolcanoes.

And at hotel Villa Colonial, in former capital city Antigua, you can breakfast on the magnificent terrace with a great view of Fuego’s volcanic plumes. Stays cost from £77 per night (Villasdeguatemala.com).

To get even closer to playing a real game of The Floor Is Lava, take a trail ride up Volcán Pacaya, an hour’s drive from the city.

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Let your horse carry you across dark ash soil to the base of the cone, then toast marshmallows on the geothermal vent – yes, really!

A six-hour horse-riding tour costs £67 per person (Pacayatours.com). 

2 – Punchy Plates 

Breakfast is a big deal here. Try the traditional feast of eggs, black beans and tortilla somewhere atmospheric, such as Raíces Restaurant on the edge of Lake Petén Itzá – it will only set you back £3 (@Raicesrestaurante).

For classic dishes in Antigua, head to charming La Fonda de la Calle Real and order the delicious Chiles Rellenos De Res – battered roasted peppers stuffed with beef mince, £9 (Lafondadelacallereal.com).

After modern fusion cooking? Dig into a trio of ceviche at Maxán, £14, followed by Buñuelos – moreish plantain fritters laced with cardamom, £3 (@Maxangt).  

3 – Floating Flores 

This small town on a tiny island in Petén was the last Mayan kingdom to resist. Set sail on Lake Petén Itzá to spot kingfishers, vultures and maybe even a crocodile or two.

Expect to pay around £37 for a boat ride from the shore. Once back on dry land, browse the brightly painted shops for textiles, ceramics and souvenirs, then sip a refreshing, bright-green limonada con chaya, made with lime juice and local chaya leaves, £3.40, at La Danta restaurant as the sun sets (Ladantarestaurante.com).

After dark, settle into a charming cabin at nearby Hotel Villa Maya and drift off to the sounds of the rainforest.

Rooms cost from £90 a night (Villasdeguatemala.com).  

4 – Awe-inspiring Atitlán 

Lake Atitlán was described as “the most beautiful lake on Earth” by German explorer Alexander von Humboldt, and at sunrise it is truly bewitching.

Stroll the water’s edge in Panajachel, then hop on a boat to the sleepy lakeside villages.

Stop off at San Juan La Laguna to meet women-run weaving cooperatives, watch natural-dye workshops and grab a large bag of fresh Arabica coffee, £8, from Café San Juan (Cafesanjuangt.com).

Day tours cost from £74 per person (Getyourguide.com). Finally, be sure to make the short, steep climb to Kaqasiiwaan Viewpoint for a stunning panorama – the £4 entry fee is well worth it.

At the top, sip cold Gallo beer crowned with spiced cucumber rings, £2, from the kiosk. Heaven!  

5 – Cacao + Coffee 

For thousands of years, maize and cacao have been Guatemala’s sacred crops.

In San Juan La Laguna, stop by Deleite Ancestral and learn to make traditional dishes, such as tz’utujil chicken stew with handmade tortillas – expect to get hands on! – then sample the mouth-watering results (@Deleiteancestral).

In Antigua, join a lively chocolate workshop at Ek Chuah to hear all about cacao’s history, while making sweet treats to take away.

An hour’s workshop costs £19 per person (Chocolateantigua.com). Coffee is the latest big Guatemalan obsession, and at 5,000ft above sea level, Antigua’s volcanic-soil plantations grow some of the world’s finest.

Take a tour of Finca Filadelfia to find out why shade-grown beans taste richer, why only women can plant the seedlings and why medium roast is the national sweet spot.

Finish with a tasting that’s both jittery and blissful. A 90-minute tour costs £19 per person (Facebook.com/fincafiladelfia).  

6 – Gemstone shopping 

Antigua is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its cobbled streets are filled with shops selling locally made ceramics, leather goods and exquisite jade jewellery. Discover why it’s the Mayans’ favourite gem with a free tour of Casa Del Jade’s museum (Casadeljade.com).

Later, check out the impressive 18th-century Convent of La Merced, with its giant fountain shaped like a water lily, and the Arch of Santa Catalina, £2 entry. But for the most dramatic view, head for Cerro de la Cruz (the hill of the cross) to snap vistas of the city beneath the incredible backdrop of Volcán Agua.  

7 – Jungle adventures 

Want to hear howler monkeys roar like dinosaurs and spy pyramids emerging from the jungle canopy?

Hit Tikal, a vast site built by the ancient Mayans using only stone-age tools, and climb Temple IV for one of the most extraordinary views in the Americas – it even featured in the first Star Wars film.

Entry costs £15 (Tikalnationalpark.org).

Tikal is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its biodiversity – back at ground level, coatimundis scramble across paths, spider monkeys hang from branches and leafcutter ants march across the jungle floor.

Or to channel your inner Indiana Jones, head for the Belize border and pay the £8 entry to explore Yaxhá, a site whose origins are even older than Tikal.

It only receives about 80 visitors a day, so you may feel like the first to discover its huge plazas and temples.

Look out for the famous ball court, where Ancient Mayans played pok ta pok – a game with high stakes, where losing teams faced being sacrificed!  

As a powerful blizzard blankets the East Coast in snow, another force of nature is preparing to take over the chilly streets of Manhattan.

Los Angeles-based singer-songwriter Gaby Moreno will make her Broadway debut as Persephone, the leading lady of Anaïs Mitchell’s Tony Award-winning musical “Hadestown,” beginning Tuesday at the Walter Kerr Theatre in New York City.

Exploring themes of climate change to a New Orleans jazz- and American folk-laden soundtrack, “Hadestown” — a retelling of the Greek myths of Hades and Persephone, as well as Orpheus and Eurydice — will open just as New York transitions out of the harsh winter. Moreno, 44, takes a video call from The Times during her second day of rehearsals, as she is learning how to play Persephone, goddess of spring — and in this play, a wine-drunk lush.

“For the first few minutes I was like, ‘Can I do this? I feel like a klutz,’” she says of her character’s flailing steps, meant to distinguish the inebriated goddess, who splits her time between the underworld and the surface of the Earth.

“I’ve never been drunk because I don’t like the taste of alcohol,” says Moreno, giggling. “But there’s a lot of numbers where I’m drunk-singing and dancing around, so that’s the acting part.”

As a theatrical performer of her own songs, Moreno feels firmly in her element on Broadway. But she arrives as a decorated musician who has woven Latin American, blues and soul traditions into nine bilingual albums — including her 2024 Grammy Award-winning acoustic album “X Mí.”

For Moreno, who was born in Guatemala City, passion for musical theater was seeded during a trip to New York City with her family when she was 13 years old. That’s when they saw “Les Misérables” and “The Phantom of the Opera” on Broadway.

“I went back home [to Guatemala] thinking, this is a dream of mine,” she recalls.

But the trip to the Big Apple also illuminated another path for Moreno. Then just a starry-eyed Catholic schoolgirl, she remembers walking down Times Square and hearing a woman singing in the streets in a style unknown to her. Curious, she went up to the busker to ask her what type of music she was singing; it was the blues, she says.

Moreno scored blues compilation albums she would bring back to her native Guatemala. Locked in her bedroom, the first track that played was Koko Taylor’s 1965 rendition of “Wang Dang Doodle,” the party anthem originally composed by Willie Dixon.

“That’s the moment I’ll never forget,” says Moreno.

She would absorb every cadence of the African American folk genre, transfixed by the bewitching vocals of 1920s blues icons like Bessie Smith and Ma Rainey, as well as luminous jazz ballads by  Ella Fitzgerald,  Billie Holiday and Nina Simone.

“Every musician should always try to find the roots to see where all that comes from,” says Moreno of her early musical explorations. “You might discover something completely new.”

Growing up as the proud daughter of Lucy Bonilla, one of Guatemala’s most charming radio broadcasters, Moreno starred alongside her mother and sisters in a series of cheeky Salvadoran seasoning commercials. She even recorded voice-overs for Central America’s most beloved chicken restaurant chain, Pollo Campero.

At 10 years old, she performed as an opening act for Ricky Martin in 1991, to the credit of her father, a concert promoter who reeled international stars to Guatemala.

“It was such a wonderful experience. I got to discover that I loved singing on stage,” says Moreno, who sang Disney songs as well as her own compositions. “I felt right at home.”

Yearning to start a music career in the States — “that’s where the [music I like] comes from,” she says — Moreno recorded a cover of a popular Guatemalan waltz called “Luna de Xelajú.” Her mother sent her demo to a producer in Miami, who then linked the young singer to a music manager in Los Angeles.

At 18 years old, she signed a recording contract with Warner Brothers and moved to L.A. There she enrolled in the Musicians Institute’s Vocal Certificate program, which allowed her to apply for a student visa and remain in the U.S.

With a deep passion for American blues and folk traditions, Moreno wondered if she could integrate those sounds with elements of Latin American folk music. But her label discouraged her from doing so, believing it would “confuse [the] audience,” she says.

“It took a while for me to find my own voice and to find where I belonged in this music world,” says Moreno. “Because at the beginning, [labels] were telling me you can’t sing in both languages — you gotta pick a lane.”

Following a disastrous 2001 merger between AOL and Time Warner, Moreno’s recording contract fell through. She later signed with Epic Records under Sony Music Entertainment — then run by Chairman and CEO Tommy Mottola — but they dropped the singer, following the decline in CD sales and rise of digital file-sharing sites like Napster and Limewire.

“I didn’t even get past recording an album,” she says of this period in her life.

Behind the scenes, Moreno formulated her own Spanish-language takes on jazz, which listeners can hear in the 2006 funky, spy-like chromatic track “Escondidos” — which includes a kazoo solo in its outro. The enigmatic song earned her the Grand Prize in the John Lennon Songwriting Contest that year, making it the first time a Latin category took home the top prize.

“People kept telling me what to do, how to sound, what kind of music I should do, how I should dress. Blah, blah blah,” says Moreno when she was under a label. “At some point I said, ‘Screw it.’”

With nothing to lose — and no label looking to strip her of tender heart and free spirit — Moreno saw an opening to release music independently on MySpace, where she uploaded her 2008 debut album, “Still The Unknown.” (Much of Moreno’s music is still archived on the social network.)

“If all should fail you, there’s still the unknown,” sang Moreno with a warm, coffeehouse-friendly cadence in the title track.

“Maybe it’ll work out, maybe it won’t, but at least I’ll be doing something that I really love,” she adds, looking back on that time. After its debut, she says she gave a copy to her friend, composer Patrick Warren, who was touring with Tracy Chapman. The “Fast Car” singer heard the LP and asked Moreno to open for her Our Bright Future tour in the summer of 2009.

“It was just me and my acoustic guitar, going with [Chapman] for three weeks all over the U.S.,” says Moreno.

Moreno’s ingenuity as an independent bilingual creative allowed her to freely partake in various opportunities in entertainment. Some might recognize her bubbly folk theme from the NBC mockumentary sitcom “Parks and Recreation,” which stretched across seven seasons between 2009 and 2015.

Others might recall her smokey vocals in the song “Mal Hombre,” as featured in Guillermo del Toro’s “Cabinet of Curiosities” — or in the final season of Netflix’s “Orange is the New Black” which featured her heart-wrenching cover of the traditional Mexican huapango “Cucurrucucú Paloma.” She can also be heard in the 2022 animated film “Puss in Boots: The Last Wish,” singing a swooning ballad titled “Por Que te Vas.”

Still, Moreno declares she hasn’t found mainstream success as a musician.

“I’m perfectly fine with that. I am so happy at this point in my life where I can make music for a living, [which is] hard to do as an independent artist,” she says.

For an indie artist, Moreno boasts an impressive slate of accolades. She’s earned three Grammy nominations, including in the category of Latin pop album in 2017 for “Ilusión” and Latin rock/alternative album in 2022 for “Alegoria.” In 2024, she finally took home the gramophone for Latin pop album for her album “X Mí (Vol. 1),” an acoustic medley of all her previously recorded songs, including the song that started it all: “Luna de Xelajú.”

“She’s powerful the way that water is flowing and it’s light, but it’s unstoppable and effervescent,” says award-winning actor Oscar Isaac.

A Guatemalan-born musician himself, Issac befriended Moreno in 2013. Emmy-nominated for his role in “Scenes From a Marriage,” the actor was in town for the 2022 awards show when he and Moreno recorded “Luna de Xelajú” at the Palace Theater in downtown L.A. The two would later perform the ballad live on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon in 2024.

For Isaac, the stresses of everyday life melted away when the two got to jam together. They’ve performed a handful of times over the years, including live at the Lincoln Center for its American Songbook series in 2019.

“When I think of her, she feels very much like home,” he adds.

Guatemala — which is also known as the “Land of the Eternal Spring” — is always on Moreno’s mind.

Last year, she starred in “Lamento,” a musical short film made inside an abandoned Guatemalan beach resort; once a popular seaside destination known as Turicentro Likin, it is now tucked away behind the mangroves. Starring a stacked Guatemalan cast, including actor Tony Revolori, the project underlined the encroaching impacts of climate change that corrode once treasured memories, including those of Moreno, who grew up visiting the vacation destination.

“It’s something that brings me joy to work with people from my country,” she says.

It was only fitting that the folk-soul singer would be selected to represent Persephone in “Hadestown” — a victim of environmental destruction, yet whose duality brings life and prosperity back to a world that is constantly freezing or aflame.

Yet before she can truly represent both the queen of the underworld and goddess of spring, Moreno must first survive the gauntlet that is the New York winter.

“One thing I can tell you is: I cannot wait to bring on the spring,” she says.

Guatemala announced last week that it will begin phasing out its three-decade-old programme, under which Cuban doctors work in its country to fill the gap in the country’s healthcare system.

Communist-ruled Cuba, under heavy United States sanctions, has been earning billions of dollars each year by leasing thousands of members of its “white coat army” to countries around the world, especially in Latin America. Havana has used its medical missions worldwide as a tool for international diplomacy.

So why are some countries withdrawing from the programme that helps the host countries?

Why is Guatemala phasing out Cuban doctors?

Guatemala’s health ministry said in a statement that it would begin a “gradual termination” over this year.

“The phased withdrawal of the Cuban Medical Brigade stems from an analysis of the mission’s completion of its cycles,” the statement, originally in Spanish, said on February 13.

The statement added that the Cuban medical mission was meant to support Guatemala through the 1998 Hurricane Mitch, which devastated parts of Central America, overwhelmed local hospitals and left rural communities with almost no access to medical care.

“The Ministry of Health is developing a phased strategic replacement plan that includes hiring national personnel, strengthening incentives for hard-to-reach positions, strategic redistribution of human resources, and specialized technical support,” the statement said.

The Cuban mission in Guatemala comprises 412 medical workers, including 333 doctors.

The Central American country’s decision comes amid growing pressure from the United States, which wants to stop Cuban doctors from serving abroad.

The move aims to starve Cuba of much-needed revenue as a major share of the incomes earned by doctors goes to government coffers. Cuba has been facing severe power, food and medical shortages amid an oil blockade imposed by the Trump administration since January.

Guatemala is just one country which benefits from Cuban medical missions.

Over the past decades, Cuba has sent medical missions around the world, from Latin America to Africa and beyond. It began sending these missions shortly after the 1959 Cuban revolution brought Fidel Castro to power.

Castro’s communist government reversed many of the pro-business policies of Fulgencio Batista, the dictator backed by the US. The revolution ruptured ties between the two countries, with the US spy agency CIA trying several times unsuccessfully to topple Castro’s government.

Guatemala has moved closer to the US since the election of Bernardo Arevalo as the president in January 2024. He has cooperated with US President Donald Trump’s administration. Last year, Guatemala agreed to ramp up the number of deportation flights it receives from the US. The US has deported thousands of immigrants without following due process to third countries such as Guatemala and El Salvador, which are headed by pro-Trump leaders.

In November 2018, shortly after Brazil elected Jair Bolsonaro as president, Cuba announced its withdrawal from the country’s Cuba “Mais Medicos” (More Doctors) programme. Bolsonaro, who is known as Brazil’s Trump, had criticised the medical mission, deeming it “slave labour”. Bolsonaro is serving a 27-year prison sentence after he was convicted in September 2025 of plotting to stage a coup in order to retain power after his defeat in the 2022 presidential election.

Why is the US targeting Cuba’s global medical missions?

The US has deemed Cuba’s foreign medical missions a form of “forced labour” and human trafficking, without any evidence, and has a goal of restricting the Cuban government’s access to its largest source of foreign income.

US efforts to curb Cuba’s medical missions are not new. Just last year, Washington imposed visa restrictions aimed at discouraging foreign governments from entering into medical cooperation agreements with Cuba.

In February last year, US Secretary of State Marco Rubio announced that the US would restrict visas targeting “forced labor linked to the Cuban labor export program”.

“This expanded policy applies to current or former Cuban government officials, and other individuals, including foreign government officials, who are believed to be responsible for, or involved in, the Cuban labor export program, particularly Cuba’s overseas medical missions,” a statement on the US State Department’s website said.

Rubio, who is of Cuban origin, has been a vocal critic of Havana, and has pushed US policies in Latin America, including the military operation to abduct Venezuelan President Nicolas Maduro on January 3. Under Trump, Washington has pushed its focus on Latin America as part of its Western Hemisphere pivot, which seeks to restore Washington’s preeminence in the region.

Since Maduro’s abduction, the US focus has turned towards Cuba. Senior US officials, particularly Rubio, hinted that Havana could be the next target of Washington’s pressure campaign.

The US, in effect, cut off Venezuelan oil shipments to Cuba as part of a new oil blockade. Havana has faced sweeping US sanctions for decades, and Cuba has since 2000 increasingly relied on Venezuelan oil provided as part of a deal struck with Maduro’s predecessor, Hugo Chavez.

The blockade has caused a fuel shortage and, in turn, a severe energy crisis in Cuba. President Miguel Diaz-Canel has imposed harsh emergency restrictions as a response.

This has renewed US pressure on countries to phase out Cuban medical missions.

How many Cuban doctors are on missions abroad?

More than 24,000 Cuban doctors are working in 56 countries worldwide. This includes Latin American countries such as Venezuela, Nicaragua and Mexico; Africa, including Angola, Mozambique, Algeria; and the Middle East, including Qatar.

There have been occasional deployments in other countries. For instance, Italy received Cuban doctors during the COVID-19 pandemic to help overwhelmed hospitals in some of its hardest-hit regions.

Cuban doctors are crucial for Caribbean countries. They fill a significant gap in medical care amid a lack of trained medical professionals.

Have countries resisted US pressure in the past?

Caribbean countries hit back in March 2025 against the US threats to restrict visas. “We could not get through the pandemic without the Cuban nurses and the Cuban doctors,” Barbados’s Prime Minister Mia Mottley said in a speech to the parliament.

“Out of the blue now, we have been called human traffickers because we hire technical people who we pay top dollar,” Trinidad and Tobago’s Prime Minister Keith Rowley said back then, adding that he was prepared to lose his US visa.

“If the Cubans are not there, we may not be able to run the service,” Saint Vincent and the Grenadines then-Prime Minister Ralph Gonsalves said. “I will prefer to lose my visa than to have 60 poor and working people die.”

In August 2025, the US announced that it was revoking the visas of Brazilian, African and Caribbean officials over their ties to Cuba’s programme that sends doctors abroad.

It named Brazilian Ministry of Health officials, Mozart Julio Tabosa Sales and Alberto Kleiman, who had their visas revoked for working on Brazil’s Mais Medicos, or “More Doctors” programme, which was created in 2013.

Some countries are now finding ways around the pressure from Washington. For instance, this month Guyana announced that it would start paying doctors directly, rather than through the Cuban government.