Croatias

I’m watching overtourism in action. Within the iridescent marvel that is Croatia’s Blue Cave, four boats holding about a dozen people each have an allotted 10 minutes before we motor back out again so that the next batch of visitors can float in. About 1,500 people a day visit this beautiful grotto on the island of Biševo, the biggest attraction within the Vis archipelago, two hours and 20 minutes south of Split by ferry. After paying the €24 entrance fee, I’m left underwhelmed by this maritime conveyor belt. At least the 45-minute foot ferry from Komiža, on the archipelago’s main island of Vis, to Biševo’s Mezoporat Bay, the launch point for boats to the Blue Cave, is only €4.

Many of the other cave visitors are on one of the countless speedboat tours departing from all over Dalmatia and crowding into Mezoporat Bay before whizzing off elsewhere. I’m staying on Vis itself to take a longer, slower, more satisfying look at the island, where I spent a night three years ago and which I’ve been hankering to revisit ever since. Despite the overwhelming popularity of the nearby Blue Cave and its speedboat tours, plus the boost in tourism on Vis after much of Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again was filmed here in 2017, I know there’s a quieter, mellower side to the island, and it doesn’t take long to find it.

In sleepy Rukavac on Vis’s south-eastern coast, British couple Xania and Craig Wear welcome me into one of their four guest rooms in the large stone house they renovated after moving here 20 years ago. The former PE teachers run WearActive, offering yoga, kayaking, paddleboarding and cycling in Rukavac. On their seven-day, “relaxingly active” holidays you can do as much or as little as you like. “Actively relaxing”, I find, is just as fitting a description.

Xania serves delicious plant-based food on the large shaded terrace, which has views of the sea. But before breakfast we walk to the flat rocks of Bili Bok beach, where Craig puts me through my yoga paces. Clean, salty air fills my lungs as I lunge and stretch by the Adriatic. I follow this with a swim at nearby Srebrna beach. Late afternoons are spent lazing on the pebbles at Tepluš beach, 10 minutes’ walk from the house. I could get used to this.

The next morning, my hosts suggest kayaking 6 miles (10km) from Rukavac to Stiniva Bay, Vis’s most famous beach and a place of peerless beauty. Two giant limestone cliffs curve round the pebbly beach, nearly meeting in the middle. From the top of the hill behind the cliffs there’s a steep, rocky footpath to the beach, but it’s infinitely more enjoyable to paddle on to the beach, where only kayaks, paddleboards and small rubber dinghies are allowed. Craig is on a paddleboard, while Xania and I share a kayak, and my husband has a single kayak. At 8.30am there are only about four people here, and we have a blissful, peaceful swim.

Craig knows I’ve always wanted to learn how to paddleboard, so on the way back to Rukavac we stop in tranquil Ruda bay. After some expert instruction, I’m on the board and paddling away, initial jitters soothed by the hypnotic motion of gliding on the water. Now I see what all the fuss is about.

Away from the water, my husband and I get to know Vis more intimately, crisscrossing its vineyard-covered interior and heading up and down its winding mountain roads. Its capital, Vis town, dozes during the day, most restaurants closing while the sailing crowd cruises. It comes alive at night, the restaurant terraces along the Venetian harbour buzzing in the summertime warmth.

Smaller Komiža is the place for lunch, with everything from cheap pizzerias to smart restaurants. Near Gusarica beach we find Konoba Jastožera, a restaurant built on stilts over the water, where lobster pots hold the restaurant’s speciality.It’s only when I hear the soundtrack to the Mamma Mia! films that I realise we’ve stumbled on one of the sequel’s filming locations, and instantly expect high prices and low quality. Wrong on both counts. As long as we don’t order lobster, it’s one of the most affordable restaurants we’ve seen so far, with two courses for €25. It’s not all money, money, money here.

For an island that was off limits to foreigners until 1989, when the Yugoslav army base here closed down, Vis seems to be taking its time in developing its tourism (Biševo’s Blue Cave aside). I spot a few military tours about, taking people to the huge network of tunnels and bunkers left behind by the army. I get a fascinating glimpse into 1944 Vis when I hike up to the collection of caves at the foot of Mount Hum, where future Yugoslav president Tito and his fellow partisans hid from the Nazis.

Then there’s the growth of active holiday companies bringing more people to the island, which Xania sees as a positive thing, even if it means more competition. “Vis would then become an island that’s known for its adventure holidays,” she says. “And then you have more people coming to do that kind of tourism.” I nod in agreement. The island’s natural rhythm – slow, unhurried – is one to be savoured, not raced through.

The trip was provided by WearActive, which offers seven-night active holidays from €1,590pp, including breakfast, four lunches, three dinners with wine, five days of activities, transfers to restaurants on four evenings and from Vis town ferry terminal

Hvar is known to tourists for its vibrant nightlife and party culture, but with new laws clamping down on the main town’s shenanigans, a hidden gem on the other side of the island is the next best thing

Hvar, one of Croatia’s many islands, is just a two-hour ferry ride from Split. The main spot, Hvar Town, is known as a party destination with tourists pouring in during the summer months to go straight from the beach to the clubs and back.

But, less than an hour away from the hustle and bustle is a lesser-known side of the island. Family-friendly, tranquil and everything you could imagine in a sliver of Mediterranean paradise.

This is Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe with a full-time population of less than two thousand people. Arriving by ferry on this secluded side of Hvar, it’s easy to forget it’s a ‘party island’ at all as you’re enveloped in the serenity of Mediterranean countryside.

Stari Grad’s crystal-clear waters and iconic long bay create the most gorgeous views as the sun sets right down the middle of it during the summer months. The waterside promenade also boasts a plethora of local bars and restaurants where you can watch the dazzling display with a glass of Bogdanusa from the edge of ancient Roman mosaic floors dating back to the second century.

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Down the city’s narrow alleyways, you can find a range of local treats and handmade goods, from painters to bakers. All are experts in their crafts and friendly as they come. In the summer, the streets come alive with flowers complementing the ancient stonework, making for some stunning photos.

The medenjaci, traditional Croatian cookies, are to die for. The island is also known for its lavender fields, with several vendors offering dried plants, oils, and other handmade lavender products. After a few minutes of walking, you may even come across Petar Hektorović’s castle.

The Renaissance poet built the pinnacle of a writer’s sanctuary into his favourite town, which is still mostly intact today. It has all the plants he collected during his travels and his famous fishpond. It may not sound like much, but the atmosphere is indescribable, like pure tranquility in physical form.

All of this is just a short walk away from Valamar’s [PLACES] hotel. Providing some of the upbeat party culture Hvar is known for without distracting from the natural wilderness it’s surrounded by. When the sun goes down, the pool stage lights up as DJs and performers take over, excited chatter takes over as cocktails pour out of the multiple bars until the late hours of the evening.

The resort features apartments and villas just a few short steps from the ocean, where a secluded beach allows visitors a dip in the crystal clear waters. It also features a quaint spa next to an array of huts, bean bags and lounging chairs in a ‘quiet zone’ that creates a true break away from all the stressors of life. Allowing you to completely unwind as the birds sing in harmony with the rhythm of the ocean.

Just next door is the family-friendly Valamar Amicor resort. Water slides, game rooms, sports courts, even virtual reality football, are just a quick walk or tricycle ride from the lavish villas. Its delicious buffet restaurant also caters to every picky eater imaginable, from pancakes to oysters.

Our local guides note that mid-summer is Hvar’s busiest time of year, which also means prices for resorts and activities go up. However, they also point out that even the depths of winter rarely hit single-digit temperatures here.

For anyone planning a getaway, they recommend skipping July or August and going for May, June, or September, when temperatures are just as high but the beaches are empty and the rates are lower.

The tourist hotspot of Hvar Town is less than an hour’s drive away from Stari Grad. If you plan the right route, you might even come across local family wineries up on the mountains that offer unmatchable views of the bay as you sip.

Our little group even managed to catch a glimpse of Jeff Bezo’s super yacht sailing in as he and Lauren Sanchez enjoyed the last few days together before their lavish wedding.

Out in Hvar Town, there’s something to do and see down each cobbled street. From the 16th-century fortress lording over the city to a museum dedicated to the Hvar detective who pioneered forensic fingerprinting techniques.

From Hvar’s port, sailboats depart for several local swim spots and other islands. The blaring sun can get intense out on the sea, so sunscreen is recommended at the bare minimum, but diving into a still, crystal-clear ocean is an inimitable feeling.

Of course, there’s still Hvar’s vibrant nightlife, but authorities are clamping down on rules this summer to curb the onslaught of rowdy tourists it’s known for collecting. They are limiting noise levels, cutting parties earlier, and adding fines for things like wearing beach attire in certain venues.

Book it

[PLACES] Hvar by Valamar has doubles from £123 (€144), FLEXI Half Board included

Valamar Amicor Resort 4* offers villas from £285 (€334), half Board included

Jadrolinija runs ferries to Stari Grad

Kapetan Luka sails catamarans from Hvar.

Go to Visit Stari Grad and Visit Hvar to find out more.