Cornwall

Discover a charming Cornish village on the River Tamar with stunning Devon views, historic pubs, galleries and access via the UK’s ‘most scenic’ train ride

A delightful Cornish village overlooking the river towards Devon remains something of a hidden treasure – boasting galleries, pubs and beautiful walks to discover. Situated inland, this charming spot doesn’t get swamped with tourists, which is why I adore visiting for its authentic Cornish atmosphere.

Despite its tucked-away location, Calstock village is remarkably accessible by train. Better still, it forms part of a railway journey that’s been dubbed Britain’s “most scenic”, winding through Devon and Cornwall.

There’s also another delightful way to reach Calstock during spring and summer – via a boat trip departing from Plymouth’s Barbican.

Last summer, I arrived in Calstock aboard a Plymouth Boat Trips ferry and I can’t recommend it enough – the harbour cruise to this riverside village is both picturesque and thoroughly enjoyable.

Plymouth Boat Trips describes the ferry journey on their website: “A truly idyllic cruise to experience the stunning scenery of the Tamar Valley. Setting sail across Plymouth Sound and up the River Tamar to the picturesque Cornish village of Calstock.”, reports the Express.

“Leaving the busy city behind we pass the Naval Dockyard and Brunel’s famous bridge, taking in the beautiful sights of the Tamar Valley, passing Cargreen, Wier Quay, Pentille, Holton and Cotehele.”

The cruise tends to be quite sociable – when I made this ferry trip to Calstock with a few friends, we ended up chatting to plenty of fellow passengers, whilst the vistas along the River Tamar were absolutely breathtaking. The boat then docks along the river banks at Calstock, allowing passengers to disembark for a few hours before heading back; this provides visitors with ample time to explore the village properly.

During my visit to Calstock, we stopped by a local pub called The Boot Inn, which seems to be thriving as a recent TripAdvisor review describes it as “a lovely friendly place” where diners enjoyed a “brilliant” Sunday roast beef lunch.

Alternatively, you can take the Tamar Valley Line from Plymouth to Calstock – a railway journey that’s been dubbed “the most scenic train ride in the UK”.

The route takes you through an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, passing charming villages and picturesque river crossings, and as you approach Calstock the train travels across an historic viaduct built in the early 1900s.

Calstock Viaduct offers a breathtaking view from the village – the impressive structure dominates the local landscape, connecting Cornwall to neighbouring Devon.

The Cornish village of Calstock is naturally separated from Devon by the River Tamar, so it’s Cornwall on one bank and Devon on the other – and numerous historical battles have taken place along these shores throughout history.

The Escape To Britain observes: “Calstock lies alongside the River Tamar, an area of Cornwall often neglected in favour of more popular Cornish destinations such as St Ives and the Lizard coastline.

“However, what you’ll find should you venture to this UNESCO World Heritage site is plenty of Roman history and some gorgeous architecture.”

Quaint fishing village has a picture-perfect harbour, historic cobbled streets, a gorgeous tidal pool and a lovely stretch of sandy beach – and no cars are allowed inside the village

A stunning Cornish fishing village is winning over visitors with its idyllic harbour, historic cobbled streets, delightful tidal pool and a beautiful stretch of sandy beach. The icing on the cake? Cars are not permitted within the village, creating a genuine sense of stepping back in time.

With charming cottages and compact fishermen’s houses, this Cornish treasure is a must-see. Situated on the South West Coastal Path, the main village has a modest population of around 572 residents, according to the 2021 census.

The village itself has a rich fishing history and features a traditional harbour, while a thriving artistic community adds to its allure.

Its narrow cobbled streets prohibit cars, meaning drivers must park a short distance away in the main car park or further afield in neighbouring areas, before walking or catching the bus into the village, reports Cornwall Live.

Things to do

There’s plenty to keep you occupied in the picturesque village of Polperro. This enchanting spot offers a plethora of activities for visitors, from browsing quirky local shops and museums to immersing yourself in the rich history and vibrant arts scene that infuses its many attractions.

The Polperro Harbour Heritage Museum is essential viewing, celebrating the village’s remarkable history rooted in smuggling and fishing traditions. Another gem is the Polperro Arts Foundation, a charitable organisation devoted to supporting and showcasing local talent. They run a gallery inside the Polperro Village Hall, displaying works by their community members.

During your stay, make certain to pop into the village’s beloved watering holes, The Three Pilchards and Blue Peter Inn, where you can tuck into a substantial meal with a pint or glass of wine.

Polperro’s breathtaking shoreline offers countless adventures, from taking a dip in the Victorian Chapel Rock Tidal Pool (reached by steps) to exploring rocky coastlines and hidden bays along Polperro Beach. Situated close to the harbour, it’s perfect for swimming and splashing about, especially when the tide is out.

Tourists can also take a relaxing stroll along the South West Coast Path, providing scenic routes with sweeping vistas. A treat for ramblers, this clifftop trail delivers magnificent ocean and countryside views, winding past towering cliffs, breathtaking scenery, and secret beaches along the way.

What travellers are saying

One delighted guest comments on Tripadvisor: “Unique little Cornish village with tiny passageways between quaint houses. Feels like stepping back in time. Lovely little harbour, but sadly, very few fishing vessels are still working here. Few nice shops selling handmade goods.”

One holidaymaker recently reviewed their stay, saying: “We stayed in Polperro for our Cornwall trip and it was a good choice. Quiet and some very scenic walks around. It’s like a mini Venice. Lovely little shops, galleries and the Blue Peter Inn and the Three Pilchards are bustling with good food, drink and good company. On weekends, there will be live music in the evening too. People here are lovely and laid back. “.

Another admirer of the charming fishing village shared on Tripadvisor: “Polperro is absolutely lovely …we are at the end of a week here, and are already making plans to come back. Done the coastal walks to both Looe, and to Lansallos .. stunning .. Every evening we walk down to the harbour, just to sit and take it in.”

Yet another visitor, describing it as “out of this world”, penned: “I will start by saying that Polperro itself is out of this world. It can only be described as a quaint little fishing village with a harbour that offers boat trips to nearby Looe with stunning views aplenty. You can take a walk along the cliffs and beach, and the harbour has plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants to stop in.”

Another tourist remarked about the charming village: “It’s a bit of a walk from the car park into town, but it’s well worth it when you get there, with quirky little alleyways, cute smugglers’ cottages, a working harbour offering boat trips and plenty of traditional Cornish pubs. You’ll find plenty of pubs and cafes to refuel on fresh fish dishes, Cornish pasties or cream teas, as well as lots of independent retailers. You can also take boat trips from the harbour and access the south west coast path.”

The surf town has seen a massive increase in holiday bookings as it becomes one of the UK’s fastest-growing destinations

As we usher in 2026, it’s high time to start plotting our holiday escapes for the year. For those on the hunt for the ideal staycation spot, look no further than the charming Cornish town of Newquay.

Known for its stellar surfing scene, this coastal gem has seen a surge in popularity among Brits craving a dose of summer sunshine without venturing abroad.

Holidaycottages.co.uk, the holiday rental experts, have reported a whopping 32.5% uptick in bookings for Newquay compared to the previous year, catapulting the town to the top of their list of rising hotspots.

The cathedral city of Hereford clinched second place with a 28.2% increase in bookings, while the picturesque seaside town of Beadnell secured third place with a 21.1% boost in reservations.

Newquay boasts an array of breathtaking beaches, including the renowned Fistral Bay. One smitten visitor gushed: “Fistral Beach has to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the UK. We visited whilst staying in Crantock (up the road a few miles). The water quality is amazing, it’s great for surfing. Such a cool vibe on this beach.”

Another fan took to Tripadvisor to share their love for Newquay, writing: “We return to Newquay year after year because of this beautiful beach! We love nothing better as a family than coming along, pitching up for the day, watching the surfers hit the waves, dipping our toes in the sea and fighting off the seagulls from our pasties.”

“The beach is clean and has good facilities (showers, toilets, baby change). There are a few shops and restaurants right next to the beach and a little hut where you can buy pasties and ice creams from. Honestly this place is a perfect family day out! Only downside is that parking is quite expensive and spaces are limited.”

The neighbouring Watergate Beach has also attracted plenty of holidaymakers, with TripAdvisor reviewers frequently praising how spotless the beach is.

For visitors looking beyond sandy shores, Newquay also boasts attractions including Newquay Zoo and Trerice, an Elizabethan manor house now run by the National Trust.

One guest at Trerice commented: “Tucked away down a narrow lane, a relatively small NT property, but worth a visit. We arrived just in time for a short talk by Joan, one of the volunteers, which gave an insight into its history and the various owners. Left to wander through the house at leisure with guides in the rooms. Try your hand at kayling in the garden.”

Revealing the list of up-and-coming hotspots, Sarah Pring, digital PR manager at holidaycottages.co.uk, remarked: “The UK is home to so much diversity in terms of landscapes, fauna, history and activities.

“Just a short journey away, you can be coasting some of the world’s best waves, while in a different direction, you could spend the day stepping back in time at one of the country’s many heritage sites.

“With UK destinations trending on social media platforms like TikTok, alongside far-flung international destinations, we’re seeing so many travellers re-explore domestic travel and realise you don’t need to go far to experience beauty.”

2026’s top 10 emerging destinations:

1. Newquay
2. Hereford
3. Beadnell
4. Broadhaven
5. Bamburgh
6. Holt
7. Wollacombe
8. Bridport
9. Bakewell
10. Seahouses

CORNWALL has long been a favourite among UK holiday destinations, thanks to its stunning beaches, fascinating history and natural inland beauty.

So if you’re considering cooking a trip tot he popular South West county this year, take a look at some of our favourite local stays in recent years.

How The Sun’s travel team reviews accommodation

This list includes Cornish hotels, holiday parks, cottages and campsites our team has visited and fallen in love with.

Some journalists have travelled with their families while others have journeyed solo.

When it comes to picking our favourites we account for everything from costs to location, design, hospitality and more.

We don’t just look at what’s trending but those little-known gems that will stay with you in the years to come.

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And to keep this article fresh with the latest accommodation we will regularly update it.

Best places to stay in Cornwall

Best luxury holiday home

8 Woodlands, Newquay

A retreat so large it could fit a family of eight, the adequately named 8 Woodlands towers over a stunning and quiet estuary.

Perched on top of a cliff, this mammoth contemporary holiday home was the ideal country escape for our beauty editor Tara Ledden.

Even with seven of her nearest and dearest with her, there was never a shortage of space.

Just 30 seconds from the back door, they could dip their toes in the sandy estuary bed or pump up a paddleboard (also provided) and brave the waters.

The surrounding nature is not the only luxury this stay has to offer – the pad comes with a lush garden complete with its own hot tub and barbecue.

Embellished with coastal-inspired interiors, families will be fully equipped with a kitchen, dining area, Smart TVs, Sonos speakers and child safety gates on each of the three floors.

The holiday home is not as remote as its views suggest – visitors can reach Newquay’s high street with just a five-minute drive or walk for 20 minutes.

Best holiday park for families with dogs

Parbola Holiday Park, Hayle

There’s no more authentic family stay in Cornwall than at Parbola Holiday Park.

Hugged by 16 acres of woodland and located just a ten-minute drive from Hayle Town, this stay gives holidaymakers the best of both worlds – a peaceful rural haven and a plethora of activities.

Writing for The Sun, Kate Jackson and Irfan Cemal described Parbola Holiday Park as perfect for families.

Highlights for their children included the heated outdoor swimming pool, a box of balls and bats to borrow and the Safari Tent, a place equipped with board games and books.

Meanwhile, the adults enjoyed the small but appreciated touches such as a package of tea, milk and delicious Cornish biscuits as they arrived or the wood-fired pizza fan that visits every Monday.

And to add to the list of this holiday park‘s many charms, Parbola is also dog-friendly.

Speaking about her stay Kate said: “The Parbola holiday park in Cornwall caters for people like us.”

Parbola offers the best of both worlds. Away from the usual hotspots, five miles inland from the north coast, it provides a haven that, despite its obvious popularity, was always peaceful.”

Best hotel for food

St Tudy Inn, St Tudy

After an action-packed day on your feet, The St Tudy Inn is the perfect spot to sit back by a roaring fire and enjoy some heart-warming grub.

With the appearance of a traditional 16th-century stone cottage, many would not assume that some diners travel over 40 minutes to just eathere.

During her visit, writer for The Sun Julia Richardson relished in dishes cooked by head chef James Lean, who used to work for Gordon Ramsey.

Expect exquisite sea-themed cuisine such as hake, cuttlefish and chorizo stew or steamed mussels.

And food is not the only thing this cosy Cornish pub has to offer – just across the car park, a converted barn holds four charming rooms paired with tartan bedspreads and patterned cushions.

Best hotel in Newquay

Newquay Beach Hotel, Newquay

Named Beached Front Hotel of the Year in South-West England 2024 by Travel & Hospitality Awards, the boutique stay rests just opposite Newquay‘s main beach – Tolcarne.

It’s here that our boxing reporter Wally Downes Jr relaxed after a stop at the Newquay Zoo.

With stellar beach views and an art deco interior – this stay is a feast for the eyes, from the designer velvet scallop chairs to the geometric glass.

And if you’re looking to grab a bite to eat, you will not be left hungry.

Newquay Beach Hotels offers numerous classic dishes as well as a fully stocked cocktail bar.

A nice extra is the Abangamba playroom for the kids.

Best holiday cottage for families

Bosinver Farm Cottages, Trelowth

You might be tempted to stick to Cornwall’s coasts but its inland valleys are just as impressive as its cliffs.

Tucked away between the quaint town of St Austell and the seaside village of Mevagissey is this hidden gem.

Here you’ll find Bosinver’s Farm Cottage – a set of 20 luxury self-catering cottages full of magical Cornish spirit.

The cute accommodation Features Writer Emma Pietras stayed in was made of straw and wood bales and its beams were taken from an old hospital – all of which added to the location’s timeless feel.

Paired with a hot tub and stunning valley views this is the perfect place to kick back and relax.

A particular highlight is the £475 worth of included activities such as a pool, animal feeding, pony rides, and outdoor and indoor play.

It is no surprise that these pads won Visit England’s Best Family-Friendly Accommodation in 2017.

In her review, Pietras had this to say: “As a mum to a toddler, previous holidays have been far from stress-free, but when you’re surrounded by 35 acres of meadows, landscaped gardens and woodland, it’s hard not to feel relaxed.”

It feels as if the owners have thought of every little detail.”

Best hotel with a sea view

Polurrian on the Lizard, Mullion

The Polurrian on the Lizard was once the vacation spot of Winston Churchill.

More recently this beautiful piece of history was visited by The Sun writer Ellie Ross who dubbed it as ‘one of Cornwall’s best kept secrets’.

With its glamorous white exterior looming over the lizard peninsula, this enchanting stay boasts a secluded beach and sea views so good you might feel like you are in a movie.

The 1890s hotel also comes along with a tennis court clifftop garden, playground and even indoor and outdoor pools.

A great way to watch the sunset over the sea is at its dog-friendly restaurant which serves everything from fish and chips to wood-fired pizza.

And according to Ellie, the cocktails were a standout.

Best spa hotel

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa, Newquay

With views that rival the Maldives or the Caribbean, Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa overlooks one of Newquay’s more private beaches.

Visitors will feel worlds away sipping speciality cocktails at the hotel’s Bay Bar – a spot particularly good for watching the sunset.

This adults-only hotel is where Sun writer Simon Copeland spent two tranquil nights.

And that was in part credit to Fistral Beach Hotel’s luxurious spa that offered rejuvenating treatments he said “wouldn’t be out of place in some Balinese temple”.

All spa day packages included a pool, steam room, hot tub, sauna and refreshments.

Equally as lavish as the spa is the hotel’s beautifully presented food that nods to Cornish cuisine with innovative twists.

Best spot for camping

Trevornick Holiday Park, Holywell

While Cornwall’s buccaneering pirates and smugglers are long gone, the spirit of adventure can still be found in camping.

At least that’s what one of our writers found out on their trip to Trevornick Holiday Park.

Located on Cornwall’s north coast, you can set up a tent not far from Holywell’s pristine sandy beach.

Or if wrestling with a tent is off-putting, Trevornick Holiday Park also offers readymade tents.

These come fully equipped with lights, and even a fridge and TV.

Expect action-packed fun, as this holiday park not only includes a pool and spa but also a golf course, soft play centre, arcade and even a surf school.

As our writer soon realised: “The only problem was there simply wasn’t time to do everything the park had to offer.

“But it’s such a treasure that, like pirate ghosts, we’re sure to return.”

Best spot for glamping

Tremeer Farm, Lanteglos-by-fowey

A more unconventional retreat but nevertheless more rewarding, Tremeer Farm is the ideal spot to return to basics.

Expect jaw-dropping nature, animals, playing games, an open fire, and a clear night sky.

And together with the elegant white 18th-century Mongolian-style yurts to sleep in, you might never want to leave.

Tremeer Farm’s owners have thought of everything – from a hot tub to a kitchen equipped with cooking basics, a hammock, BBQ, fire pit and even a cosy wood-burning stove.

As The Sun Online Travel found out there is no better way to immerse yourself in Cornwall’s beauty.

If you have a car, the stay is just a stone’s throw away from the untouched fishing village of Polperro and otherworldly Lantivet Bay

Although travelling to Cornwall during its peak season is a no-brainer, we also recommend visiting this gorgeous peninsula in the winter.

Cornwall has a reputation for being a expensive destination – here we break down how you can visit on a budget thanks to our Hols from £9.50.

SCATTERED across the UK are a number of beautiful seaside towns and one has been described as looking like Cornwall – despite being over 400 miles away.

The village of Staithes was once the largest fishing port on the North East coast – it’s still used for fishing, but on a much smaller scale.

It has pretty cobbled streets with a small sandy beach that sits inside its natural harbour and traditional seaside cottages.

Despite its position along the Yorkshire coastline, lots of people are saying looks like it belongs in the south.

One wrote on Tripadvisor that it’s the “Cornwall on the east coast”.

Another added that it’s a “place is for good old fashioned fun, no slot machines down here”.

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Unlike other seaside towns and villages there aren’t any big piers or arcades.

If you visit during the colder months and need to warm up, then head to Dotty’s Vintage Tearoom for coffee, tea and cake.

There’s also the Royal George Pub, Captain Cook Inn and The Cod and Lobster seafood restaurant which sits on the very edge of the coastline.

The village has independent boutiques and its own museum too where visitors can learn about Captain Cook and the history of Staithes.

You can easily visit other spots along the coast as Staithes sits between Whitby and Middlesbrough along the coastline.

It’s a popular seaside spot and was mentioned by Sun readers as one of their favourite underrated places in Yorkshire.

Sun reader Amy Stevenson said: “There’s no place quite like Staithes, it’s just so picturesque.”

Another mention was from Claire Allen who walked 4,000 miles around the UK coastline, raising money for Shelter charity.

Along the way visited over 1,000 coastal towns and villages – and Staithes is one of her favourites.

She told Country Living: “The view down to the village is almost enough to remember it by, but the narrow streets, pretty houses and a sheltered, sandy beach that’s as popular with fossil hunters as it is with families, put Staithes firmly at the top of the places-to-go-back-to list.

“There are pubs, cafes and tearooms, but not so many that it feels impersonal.

“I met a couple who were so taken with the place, that they’d spontaneously decided to extend their holiday.”

Here’s where to find the ‘best seaside town’ in the UK with a castle on the beach…

Bamburgh in Northumberland is constantly topping the rankings when it comes to the UK’s best seaside town.

The annual Which? ranking of seaside towns is created every year, with thousands of people surveyed about their experiences of UK beach holidays over the last year.

Once again, Bamburgh in Northumberland came top of the pile, making it four years in a row that the north east town has claimed the title.

Bamburgh is renowned for its stunning sandy shoreline, backed by the imposing ruins of its ancient castle.

One Travel Writer who visited said: “Visitors can take a dip in the fresh North Sea if they’re feeling bold, however I decided to simply dig my toes into the soft sand and take in the sights of Bamburgh Castle, which stands imposingly atop a hill behind the beach, creating a real life work of art.

“Making the scene even more idyllic is the small snack van, Bait at Bamburgh, tucked away in a car park behind the dunes.

“Its phenomenal crab crumpets are its signature dish, while local smoked Craster kippers are also on offer, providing beach-goers with delicious gourmet seafood treats plucked straight from the sea in front of them.

“The same locally-sourced produce can be found in places like the Potted Lobster, a relaxed bistro-style restaurant, whose freshly-prepared meals have earned it a place in the Michelin guide on four separate occasions.

“The Copper Kettle and Clock Tower tearooms serve similarly well-regarded fare. The former of the two describes itself as being “widely recognised as one of the finest Tea Rooms in the country” while the latter is part of the castle that draws people to Bamburgh from far and wide.“

Plus, one Sun writer reveals more on the ‘prettiest town’ in Yorkshire where she grew up that southerners won’t have heard of.

And from someone who’s walked 10,000 miles through British countryside names their quaint English village that everyone should visit.

WITH its staggeringly beautiful beaches, scenic woodlands and hidden waterfalls, Cornwall has natural attractions galore.

There’s also fascinating history to discover, from legendary King Arthur’s roots, the tin mining heyday and the infamous pirates that terrorised the coastline for hundreds of years.

We’ve spoken to Sun readers who have visited Cornwall on £9.50 Holidays to get their recommendations of the best local natural and historic attractions to visit.

We’ve also asked local experts and holiday park staff for their top tips, with options that are all within easy reach of your £9.50 Holiday. Here’s what they said… 

Waterfall magic 

Dani Fillery, Owner and Guest Experience Manager at White Acres Holiday Park, near Newquay, recommends the beautiful St Nectan’s Glen, on Cornwall’s north coast.

A scenic woodland walk leads you to a spectacular 60ft waterfall with a cafe at the top (tip: wear decent footwear as it can be wet and uneven underfoot).

Kids will be amazed by the sight and sound of the waterfall.

Admission costs £9 per adult and £5 per child (free for under fives), but you can see some of the smaller rapids for free, which are also lovely. Don’t forget to take £3 cash for the car park.

Castle legends 

You could pair St Nectan’s Glen with a trip to Tintagel Castle, just a couple of miles away.

Said to be the birthplace of King Arthur, it has medieval ruins to explore, accessed by a jaw-dropping footbridge.

At low tide, don’t miss Merlin’s Cave – located below the castle, which is believed to be where Merlin lived.

If you’re staying further south, Pendennis Castle offers a glimpse into Tudor Cornwall.

One of Henry VIII’s finest seaside fortresses, it’s ideal for a family day out, with kid-friendly tours, an events programme and even a soft play for little ones. 

Tin mining legacy

For Sun reader Anne Walton, 71, from Newport in Wales, there are lots of historic attractions in Cornwall worth visiting.

She said: “You’ve got the Poldark area and Jamaica Inn, which they filmed near Holywell Bay. We’ve been down on the beach when they’ve been filming it.”

Another highlight that Anne recommends, and which features in Poldark, are the tin mines.

You can walk right next to well-preserved engine houses on the coastal path near St Agnes Head, one of the filming locations for the BBC drama.

Or, delve deeper into the history of Cornish mining and more at the Royal Cornwall Museum in Truro, which is a wallet-friendly option for families (free for under-18s, £7.50 for adults).

It houses over 300,000 artefacts, with hands-on exhibits to capture kids’ imaginations. 

Escape to an island fortress

Carol Harris, 72, from Clacton-on-Sea, Essex, stayed at Parkdean Resorts Lizard Point.

She recommends taking the hop on, hop off bus from outside the holiday park to Marazion, to visit St Michael’s Mount, an island fortress that she says is “beautiful”.

And it might look a tad familiar – it has a French counterpart across the Channel, in Normandy.

Located on a tidal island, you need to take a boat to reach the castle and its subtropical gardens at high tide (£2.80 one way for adults, £1.50 for children).

But at low tide, you can get there for free by walking across the granite causeway (it’s open for about four hours each day).

Tip: there is a great cafe on the island, but you can keep costs down by packing a picnic and finding a grassy spot. 

Swim in a natural sea pool

Cornwall is blessed with more than 400 beaches – so you’re never short of sea swimming locations.

But for something more sheltered and a little more unique, head to a natural sea pool.

Cornwall expert and Sun travel writer Ellie Ross recommends Trevone Natural Sea Pool, which you can walk to from Trevone Bay car park in under ten minutes.

She says: “You have to time it for low tide, and clamber across some rocks, but it’s well worth it for the experience of swimming in a sea pool – which is completely free.

“There is also a shallow end nearest the path so supervised children can play here, too.”

Other tidal pools include a man-made rock pool, which is relatively unknown, hidden out of sight at Porthtowan Beach.

The light is fading fast as I stand inside Tregeseal stone circle near St Just. The granite stones of the circle are luminous in this sombre landscape, like pale, inquisitive ghosts gathered round to see what we’re up to. Above us, a sea of withered bracken and gorse rises to Carn Kenidjack, the sinister rock outcrop that dominates the naked skyline. At night, this moor is said to be frequented by pixies and demons, and sometimes the devil himself rides out in search of lost souls.

Unbothered by any supernatural threat, we are gazing seawards, towards the smudges on the horizon that are the distant Isles of Scilly. The clouds crack open and a flood of golden light falls over the islands. My companion, archaeoastronomer Carolyn Kennett, and I gasp. It is marvellous natural theatre which may have been enjoyed by the people who built this circle 4,000 years ago.

We have met at Tregeseal to talk about the winter solstice. Carolyn’s work focuses on the relationship of Cornwall’s prehistory with the sky, and she describes the whole Land’s End peninsula as an ancient winter solstice landscape. This, she says, is because of the spine of granite that runs south-west along the peninsula, towards the midwinter sunset. If, for example, you stand at winter solstice by Chûn Quoit – the mushroom-shaped burial chamber high on the moors south of Morvah – you will see the sun set over Carn Kenidjack on the south-western horizon. And likely this is exactly as Chûn Quoit’s Neolithic builders intended.

Carolyn suggests that Tregeseal stone circle was deliberately sited to allow people to view the midwinter sun setting behind the Isles of Scilly. “Seen from here, Scilly is a liminal space. On a clear day with high pressure, the isles look close up and just pop. On other days, they’re simply not there. The circle builders could have viewed Scilly as an otherworldly place, perhaps a place of the dead, associated with the winter solstice and the rebirth of the light.”

We thread through the darkening russet moor past prehistoric burial mounds and heaps of mining slag to a mysterious monument, which may be the UK’s only ancient row of holed stones. Unlike the stone at Mên-an-Tol, their better-known sister a few miles away, it’s impossible to crawl through the Kenidjack holed stones; these holes are barely big enough to fit my hand through and very low to the ground. Archaeologists remain baffled.

Carolyn’s theory is that the row might have worked as a kind of winter solstice countdown calendar, with the rising sun shining through the holes from late October until December and creating varying beams of light in the stones’ shadows. “Feeling the warmth of that golden beam of sunlight in the cold, dark moor gave me a visceral experience of how prehistoric people might have perceived winter solstice,” she says.

Too many ancient sites are aligned to the rising or setting of the sun at midwinter or midsummer for it to be a coincidence. It makes sense that prehistoric farmers, who relied on the sun for light, warmth and the growth of crops, would want to track the sun’s movement. But in the 21st century, the darkness of this time of year still weighs on our spirits, and so we welcome the winter solstice, that darkest day of all before the hours of light begin to grow again. And where better to celebrate the return of the light than on the Land’s End (West Penwith) peninsula, which points towards the setting point of the sun on the year’s shortest day?

A bitter easterly is gusting, and eerie moaning rises from unseen cows as I tramp through soggy clover to pay a visit to the Boscawen-Ros stone, keeping watch as it has done for thousands of years above the peninsula’s south coast. It is just one of scores of prehistoric stones that stand alone or in pairs or circles all over the peninsula; less than a mile away are the famous Merry Maidens, dancers turned to stone for breaking the Sabbath. I think about how long the stone has persisted here, enjoying its view of the Celtic Sea and English Channel: where once Neolithic coracles would have floated, now the container ships and the Scilly ferry pass by.

Christopher Morris’s mesmerising film A Year in a Field, which documents 12 months in the life of this stone, draws attention to the power of its still and silent presence in the ever-changing landscape. “And I deliberately started and ended the film with winter solstice,” he tells me, “because it is a moment of pure hope – the promise of the ending of darkness and a bright new year ahead.”

On 21 December, all over West Penwith, people will be marking midwinter by walking to stone circles and holy wells, to hill forts and ancient beacons. Carolyn Kennett will be leading a guided walk to Chûn Quoit to observe the sun setting over Carn Kenidjack. Morris will walk to the Boscawen-Ros stone, as he does every winter solstice, in a sort of ritual of reflection and renewal. Later he, like thousands of others, will crowd into Penzance for Montol, a midwinter festival that dates only to 2007 but revives the very old Cornish custom of guise dancing, with its elaborate masks and costumes, traditional carolling and music of pipe, drum and fiddle.

Morris calls Montol “a wild night of misrule” – mischief and taboo-breaking are positively encouraged. The sun (in papier-mache form) will be set ablaze, while revellers disguised in animal masks, foliate heads or veils will dance triumphantly around it. There will be a herd of ’obby ’osses (hobby horses, including one called Penglaz and another called Pen Hood), dragons, fire-dancers and riotous merry-making. “A lot of sprout-throwing, too,” Morris adds. At 9.30pm those still standing will parade the Mock (the Yule log), flaming torches in hand, down Chapel Street to the sea. It is a fittingly uproarious and darkly magical celebration to welcome back the light.

In enchanted West Penwith, where rings of dancers were turned to stone and the witches once lit solstice fires in the moorland cromlechs, the tradition of folklore, storytelling and community ritual is still very much alive. And especially now, at midwinter.

Fiona Robertson is the author of Stone Lands, published by Robinson at £25. To support the Guardian buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

Cornwall might be best known for its show-stopping beaches and natural beauty – but there’s a whole host of family-friendly attractions, from theme parks and soft plays to historic jails and kid-friendly museums.

It’s a good idea to have some wet weather ideas up your sleeve, or if you simply want an alternative to exploring Cornwall’s golden sands and picturesque fishing villages. 

We’ve asked Cornwall experts, holiday park staff and Sun readers who have holidayed here for their recommendations of the best family attractions in the county, located near your next £9.50 Holiday park. Here’s what they said… 

Hop on a bus

Carol Harris, 72, from Clacton-on-Sea, Essex, stayed at Parkdean Resorts Lizard Point and her top tip is to take the double decker bus, which stops right outside the holiday park.

She said: “Taking the bus was an unexpected highlight. We took a double decker to Penzance for just £4 for an all-day ticket. The sea views from the top deck were brilliant – and, as passengers instead of driving, we both got to enjoy them.

“We jumped off at Marazion for St Michael’s Mount, which is beautiful. In Penzance we walked along the quay and got unlimited refills of coffee in Wetherspoons for £1.56.”

Cornwall expert and Sun travel writer Ellie Ross also recommends the Atlantic Coaster.

She said: “On a sunny day, children will also love the thrill of riding this open-top bus.

“It links Hendra Holiday Park in Newquay with Padstow, offering amazing views out to sea, and you can hop on and off as you please. It’s also a bargain – with single fares from £2.”

Take a boat

A short ferry ride can add a dose of excitement to a day out, especially for little ones.

You can hop on board the St Mawes Ferry from Falmouth, like Laraine Wells, 73, from Taunton in Somerset, did during her £9.50 Holiday to St Ives.

She said: “Falmouth is a great place to mooch about – there are loads of small, independent shops selling interesting things.

“You can also catch the ferry to St Mawes – it’s a nice boat trip over and St Mawes is a pretty fishing harbour that you can explore or just have a cup of tea in one of the cafes.”

Family tickets cost from £7.56 return for five people; under-threes travel free. You can take a (foldable) buggy on the ferry.

Toddler-friendly attractions

If you’ve got tots in tow, rainy day activities can be a challenge.

In which case, take a trip to Lappa Valley, a train-themed attraction set in beautiful countryside on the outskirts of Newquay.

As well as the steam engine that chugs you into the park from the car park, it features mini golf, outdoor play areas and indoor soft play (tip: check the train timetable before you arrive – they only run every 40 minutes in low season).

It was recommended by Dani Fillery, Owner and Guest Experience Manager at White Acres Holiday Park.

Dani also recommended Newquay Trampoline and Play Park, which has an under-twos area as well as huge soft play for older children (tip: rainy days are especially busy, so book online to avoid disappointment).

Meanwhile, Camel Creek is an adventure park that’s great for kids of all ages. Dani said: “There’s a huge indoor soft play where you can hide away if it rains. It’s reasonably priced, we’ve been going for years with my son who is now six.”

For older kids

Cornwall expert Ellie Ross said: “Located just off the A30, Bodmin Jail is a great option en route to or from Cornwall – or if you’re happy to head half an hour inland from your holiday park.

“The 18th-century prison has recently been redeveloped into an attraction and hotel, and is a great option for families with older children, offering educational tours for children up to the age of 16 (Key Stage 4).

“Highlights include an interactive walk back in time, offering a glimpse into life inside the historic jail.

“Or pop over to Falmouth, where the National Maritime Museum has loads of interactive exhibitions that will engage youngsters while teaching them about Cornwall’s seafaring past, from pirates to packet ships.

“Tickets – which last a year – cost £18 for adults and £9 for under-18s. Under-fives get in free.”