The fishing village sits magnificently in a stunning cove on a peninsula, offering fresh seafood, timeless charm and an escape from typical tourist crowds
The village seems to be frozen in time(Image: Getty Images)
Cornwall harbours a hidden gem which truly seems frozen in time.
Encircled by stunning scenery and overflowing with authentic Cornish charm, this South Cornwall fishing village stands amongst the area’s most exceptional locations.
Described by Secrets of Cornwall as “a great secret frozen in time”, this tiny harbour village nestles magnificently at the foot of a steep, dramatic valley that opens out onto the splendid Veryan Bay.
Considered the crown jewel of Cornwall’s Roseland Peninsula, this coastal village provides quintessentially Cornish views, yet remarkably stays free from the usual tourist masses.
The late Sir John Betjeman – Poet Laureate and famously the campaigner who saved St Pancras Station from destruction during the 1960s – once described this little hamlet as “one of the least spoiled and most impressive of Cornish fishing villages”, and it’s safe to say Portloe has fully lived up to such acclaim.
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Timeless Cornish treasure
The village derives its name from the Cornish ‘Porth Logh’, meaning ‘cove pool’ – a fitting description reflecting its picturesque position within a cove surrounded by dramatic hillsides.
This naturally sheltered spot established its role as a flourishing pilchard fishing harbour throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.
In fact, until the 20th century, over 50 fishing boats operated from the village’s protected cove harbour, a number that has since dropped to just two.
These remaining operational vessels continue their work, hauling in lobster and crab which is then supplied to the village’s two venues – The Lugger and The Ship Inn.
Considered among Cornwall’s most delightful villages, Portloe stands as a true hidden gem, preserved from the passage of time and modern development, reports Cornwall Live.
The steep valleys encircling the village have guaranteed Portloe’s protection from urban sprawl over the years, leaving the settlement and its buildings practically unaltered since their initial construction during the 17th and 18th centuries.
Like much of Cornwall, Portloe’s past is linked with smuggling, with French brandy being the main contraband transported through the village in a bid by locals to supplement the hamlet’s dwindling fishing trade.
Famous connections
Portloe provides a genuine escape from Cornwall’s well-known summer crowds, offering simply a scenic historic harbour and a small beach which exposes a limited stretch of sand at low tide – its picture-perfect surroundings undisturbed by tourist commotion.
The village’s unspoilt appeal has also rendered it a popular filming destination over the years, most notably appearing in Forever England (1935) starring John Mills, Treasure Island (1949), The Camomile Lawn (1991), and more recently in Richard Curtis’ rom-com blockbuster About Time (2013), the BBC’s Wild West television series, and Irish Jam (2006).
What to see and do in the picturesque coastal village
Tourists should not overlook Portloe’s two most renowned establishments – The Lugger hotel and The Ship Inn.
Situated right at the top of the harbour slipway, The Lugger provides diners with the opportunity to relish freshly caught lobster, crab and fish while taking in unmatched views of the Cornish coastline.
Immersed in Portloe’s history, The Lugger was once a notorious smuggler’s refuge, with its landlord even meeting his end at the gallows during the 18th century for smuggling French brandy.
For those favouring a valley-facing view and a more traditional pub atmosphere, the much-adored Ship Inn awaits – originally a 17th-century fisherman’s abode that remains decorated with maritime memorabilia.
Serving delicious meals, The Ship Inn has established its reputation on fresh seafood whilst also accommodating lovers of more typical pub favourites.
One Tripadvisor review of this beautiful village reads: “One of those hidden treasures that we love. Tucked away and not easy to find, but so well worth the trip.
“There is no beach to speak of, this is still very much a fishing village. One hotel, one pub, lots of fancy pants second homes and a handful of old fishing boats plying their trade.
“A great place to start a section of the coast path also. Or just sit and be, and let the day drift by.”
Another visitor said about Portloe: “Lovely, timeless location, where they still winch small fishing boats up on the beach. The only other place I know of like this is Cadgwith Cove on the Lizard peninsula. Simple and unspoiled – thankfully not inundated with tourists like Polperro. There are beautiful clifftop walks to enjoy, or you can just sit and listen to the waves lapping on the shore.”
There’s remarkably little else to keep you busy in this charming Cornish fishing village apart from dining, enjoying a drink and absorbing the breathtaking coastal views – and frankly, we can’t think of a better way to spend your holiday time.
