Cornish

Discover a charming Cornish village on the River Tamar with stunning Devon views, historic pubs, galleries and access via the UK’s ‘most scenic’ train ride

A delightful Cornish village overlooking the river towards Devon remains something of a hidden treasure – boasting galleries, pubs and beautiful walks to discover. Situated inland, this charming spot doesn’t get swamped with tourists, which is why I adore visiting for its authentic Cornish atmosphere.

Despite its tucked-away location, Calstock village is remarkably accessible by train. Better still, it forms part of a railway journey that’s been dubbed Britain’s “most scenic”, winding through Devon and Cornwall.

There’s also another delightful way to reach Calstock during spring and summer – via a boat trip departing from Plymouth’s Barbican.

Last summer, I arrived in Calstock aboard a Plymouth Boat Trips ferry and I can’t recommend it enough – the harbour cruise to this riverside village is both picturesque and thoroughly enjoyable.

Plymouth Boat Trips describes the ferry journey on their website: “A truly idyllic cruise to experience the stunning scenery of the Tamar Valley. Setting sail across Plymouth Sound and up the River Tamar to the picturesque Cornish village of Calstock.”, reports the Express.

“Leaving the busy city behind we pass the Naval Dockyard and Brunel’s famous bridge, taking in the beautiful sights of the Tamar Valley, passing Cargreen, Wier Quay, Pentille, Holton and Cotehele.”

The cruise tends to be quite sociable – when I made this ferry trip to Calstock with a few friends, we ended up chatting to plenty of fellow passengers, whilst the vistas along the River Tamar were absolutely breathtaking. The boat then docks along the river banks at Calstock, allowing passengers to disembark for a few hours before heading back; this provides visitors with ample time to explore the village properly.

During my visit to Calstock, we stopped by a local pub called The Boot Inn, which seems to be thriving as a recent TripAdvisor review describes it as “a lovely friendly place” where diners enjoyed a “brilliant” Sunday roast beef lunch.

Alternatively, you can take the Tamar Valley Line from Plymouth to Calstock – a railway journey that’s been dubbed “the most scenic train ride in the UK”.

The route takes you through an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, passing charming villages and picturesque river crossings, and as you approach Calstock the train travels across an historic viaduct built in the early 1900s.

Calstock Viaduct offers a breathtaking view from the village – the impressive structure dominates the local landscape, connecting Cornwall to neighbouring Devon.

The Cornish village of Calstock is naturally separated from Devon by the River Tamar, so it’s Cornwall on one bank and Devon on the other – and numerous historical battles have taken place along these shores throughout history.

The Escape To Britain observes: “Calstock lies alongside the River Tamar, an area of Cornwall often neglected in favour of more popular Cornish destinations such as St Ives and the Lizard coastline.

“However, what you’ll find should you venture to this UNESCO World Heritage site is plenty of Roman history and some gorgeous architecture.”

WITH its tiny, twisty streets that lead to the harbour, there’s something magical about the small Cornish fishing village that is the setting for ITV’s Doc Martin.  

The TV series, set in stunning Port Isaac, aired its final episode in 2022 but its legacy lives on.  

Daily tours take in some of the most famous landmarks and many of the shops are full of merchandise dedicated to the loveable doctor, played by Martin Clunes. 

Summer months draw the masses, but the “shoulder season” is when you can truly enjoy the sights away from the crowds. 

I was visiting with my husband Paul and daughter Lexi, staying in Mermaid Cottage booked through self-catering site sykescottages.co.uk. 

Our central village location meant that once we had pulled into our private parking space, we could enjoy almost everything without having to use the car. 

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The three-bedroom cottage sleeps up to six and was beautifully furnished and full of extra comforts such as spacious bedrooms and a powerful shower.  

The two wood-burners provided a cosy ambience in the evening, although we did have to splash out £50 for wood and kindling.  

We were lucky with the weather and, despite the odd shower, enjoyed everything that Port Isaac had to offer ­— including a couple of spectacular rainbows.  

The harbour is known for sea glass (weathered glass from discarded bottles etc), and Lexi and I spent hours searching for treasure and came up trumps.  

You won’t go hungry when staying in Port Isaac and if you want to give the cooking a miss (which we did) you will be spoilt for choice.  

Apparently lots of artists visit the area to collect pieces to use in jewellery and artwork.  

There’s more than just sea glass to spot near these waters, though.

We went on a Sea Safari courtesy of Wavehunters, which was an exhilarating 90 minutes looking for seals, tuna and other wildlife. It was awesome exploring parts of Cornwall that you cannot access by road.  

The father-daughter skipper combo were able to point out local highlights including remnants of the old tin mines, where communities lived perched on the side of the cliff, and many tiny beaches that can only be visited via boat.  

You won’t go hungry when staying in Port Isaac and if you want to give the cooking a miss (which we did) you will be spoilt for choice.  

For delicious drinks, huge pastries, and filled rolls that were probably the best I’ve ever eaten, I can’t recommend Cleaves Cafe Deli enough.

More laid-back 

We also had a delicious dinner at The Slipway (portisaachotel.com) in the heart of the village which offers tasty food at decent prices in a relaxed atmosphere. On the menu were burgers, sausage and mash, and glazed pork belly.  

Nestled in a tiny hamlet adjacent to Port Isaac is newly renovated hotel and restaurant The Port Gaverne, open from 8am through to 8.30pm for breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner.  

Owned by the St Austell Brewery, The Port Gaverne offers great food with harbour views. Port Isaac has long been a favourite location for both TV and films.

With so much beauty and adventure, it is no wonder Doc Martin chose to settle here

As well as Doc Martin, the original 1970s Poldark used some local spots, as did 2019 movie Fisherman’s Friends and its sequel. 

The sea-shanty group which inspired that film still sing in the harbour, but these days they do so unannounced to prevent chaos in the village.  

If you do want to venture out, Trevathan Farm Shop & Restaurant is just minutes away in the car and so much more than your average farm shop.

They have a great restaurant as well as the well-stocked shop — and the outside area is ideal for children who want to let off steam in the park.  

We also took a trip to seaside favourite Padstow. I would never visit the town in August because of the crowds — but it was ideal in October, when the vibe was more laid-back. 

Farther afield, and a great day out for youngsters is The Milky Way Adventure Park in Higher Clovelly — home to rides, slides, soft play, mini golf, live shows and an incredible birds-of-prey display.  

With so much beauty and adventure, it is no wonder Doc Martin chose to settle here.