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After an inconsistent start to the season for USC’s secondary, the defensive coordinator stood in front of a cadre of cameras and didn’t mince words. There were too many coverage busts leading to too many big pass plays, he said. He planned to spend the bye week studying film with microscopic focus in hopes of understanding exactly what had gone wrong.

“The lowlights cannot be that low,” he said. “You can’t just say it happens sometimes. Those things can’t happen.”

That coordinator was Alex Grinch, speaking in September 2023. Six weeks later, he was fired.

The circumstances aren’t quite that dire for the Trojans’ defense — or Grinch’s successor, D’Anton Lynn — in October 2025. But the problems with big pass plays have persisted since then. In fact, they’ve been worse this season than they were under USC’s previous coordinator, in spite of the fact that USC has yet to play a top-40 passing offense.

Through five games, USC has given up 51 pass plays of 10 yards or more. That’s eighth worst in the nation, equating to an average of over 10 such plays per game. And against Illinois, that propensity for allowing explosive plays came back to bite USC in a brutal loss.

“The pass defense has to get better,” USC coach Lincoln Riley said after the game. “It just wasn’t good enough.”

Two days later, when asked about the state of his secondary, Riley took a more encouraging tone. The cornerbacks, he said, “had a few errors here and there.” Take the game’s two biggest pass plays out of the equation, he added, and “it’s going to be really tough for them to beat us.”

Whether his cornerbacks have that same confidence coming out of the loss could be another question. How they respond out of this week’s bye, with key matchups against Michigan and Notre Dame ahead, might ultimately determine the course of USC’s season.

“Confidence, you can’t fake that,” Riley said. “We’re doing enough good things that it should show up and there should be confidence from that, but if we keep making some of the mistakes that we’ve made, whether it’s a busted coverage, or like not leveraging the football — those are controllable on us. Other people aren’t even having to make plays that way.”

Three consequential moments in the second half last Saturday were directly correlated to crippling mistakes from USC defensive backs. An Illinois swing pass in the third quarter went for a 64-yard score after safety Bishop Fitzgerald took a bad angle on running back Justin Feagin, and two corners in the area failed to shed blocks. Then, in the fourth quarter, another cornerback, Braylon Conley, was burned twice on explosive pass plays — first, when he was beat for a touchdown on a slant over the middle, and then, on the ensuing possession, when he fell down defending a hitch route that exploded for 61 yards.

Most of the group’s most glaring mistakes on big plays this season have been attributed to breakdowns in communication. Those issues were only exacerbated last week in the absence of safety Kamari Ramsey, who had recently taken over relaying calls from the sideline to the secondary.

Ramsey should return next week, but Riley said this week that communication on defense has been a primary focus for USC.

To Fitzgerald, the week off was a chance to “fully reset everything” in the secondary.

“It’s really just focusing more on the same things and trying to execute as a whole,” Fitzgerald said. “As a defense, if 10 guys do one thing but one person does the wrong thing, it’s a busted play. We can’t afford that. So we’re just trying to get everybody on the same page.”

As the Trojans enter the most difficult stretch of their schedule, it’s not clear who the coaches will trust most at corner going forward.

Injuries early this season robbed USC of two of its most experienced cornerbacks, Prophet Brown and Chasen Johnson. Then last week, as USC’s secondary unraveled in the loss to Illinois, redshirt senior DeCarlos Nicholson was in and out of the lineup with what appeared to be a nagging hamstring.

Nicholson, nonetheless, has been USC’s most consistent cover corner through five weeks. Across from him, redshirt freshman Marcelles Williams has started the last three games, but hasn’t by any means run away with the job.

Senior DJ Harvey was brought in from the transfer portal to be a major contributor at corner, but he has fallen far short of those expectations. He played only five snaps last Saturday, in spite of the team’s dire depth at corner, but one of those plays resulted in a devastating pass interference call on Illinois’ game-winning drive.

“We’re pretty young out there on the perimeter right now, without having Prophet and Chasen,” Riley said. “We need [Harvey’s] experience to show up. His emergence in this next phase of the season will be important for us, and he’s going to get every opportunity to do it.”

The most uncertain spot in the secondary has been in the slot, where Riley has yet to find a capable replacement for Brown. But USC might have an answer on the way in the form of true freshman Alex Graham.

Graham was an early standout during USC’s preseason camp but has been on the shelf since. Coaches have suggested he could return as soon as next week against Michigan and potentially step into a significant role right away in the slot, where, to this point, USC has relied on Ramsey playing out of position.

There’s not much depth at defensive back for USC to mine after that. True freshman RJ Sermons was one of the more coveted cornerback prospects in America, when he reclassified in the spring to enroll at USC a year early.

Riley didn’t rule out the possibility that Sermons, who should be a senior in high school, could play a critical role down the stretch. He said USC was “pushing it” with both he and Graham in hopes that they’d be ready “sooner than later.”

“They’re two guys that are talented enough to contribute for us right now,” Riley said. “You’re on just a race against time to get them ready, to pump as many reps into those guys. Because they clearly have the ability.”

Regardless, it’s going to take more than two true freshmen to steady USC’s secondary. The more pressing question now, after a suspect start this season, is whether the rest of the group is able to right the ship from here.

“One game doesn’t define them as a player, doesn’t define us as a defense,” safety Christian Pierce said. “We just keep our heads high and put the best foot forward.”

Dave Roberts started out of the dugout with a walk.

Once Blake Snell caught his gaze, it turned into a trot.

With two out in the seventh inning, and Snell trying to put the finishing touches on his best performance in a Dodgers uniform, Roberts appeared to be coming to the mound after a pair of walks to turn to his shaky bullpen with a three-run lead.

As he usually does when removing a pitcher, his gait was slow — at least, initially.

Once Snell saw him coming, however, Roberts picked up his pace — as he will sometimes do when electing to leave a pitcher in the game.

This time, it was the latter.

After a brief discussion between manager and starting pitcher, Snell stayed in.

Five throws later, the $180-million offseason signee rewarded the decision, striking out Otto Kemp with a 95-mph fastball to put an emphatic ending on his scoreless seven-inning start, one that lifted the Dodgers to a 5-0 win over the Philadelphia Phillies.

Entering Wednesday, all the discussion around the Dodgers had centered on the bullpen. The slumping unit was coming off two of its worst performances of the season. The majority of Roberts’ pregame address with reporters was spent dissecting how to fix it.

“Before the results, has to be confidence,” Roberts said, comparing the relief corps’ struggles to the second-half scuffles that the offense only recently emerged from. “It’s just kind of trying to reset a mentality, a mindset and expect that things happen. … You can’t chase a zero in an inning until you execute the first pitch, and then keep going like that. And I think that right now you can see that they’re kind of trying a little too hard.”

On Wednesday night, however, Snell made their job easy.

Efficient from the start with the kind of aggressive, attacking game plan he had acknowledged was missing in his last three outings, Snell went to work quickly against the Phillies, retiring the side on eight pitches (and two strikeouts) in the first inning, en route to setting down the first eight batters he faced.

Brief trouble arose in the third, when Bryson Stott and Harrison Bader had back-to-back singles.

But then Snell froze Kyle Schwarber with a curveball, one of the seven punchouts he recorded with the pitch. He had a season-high 12 strikeouts on the night.

And after that, the Phillies didn’t put another runner aboard until the seventh, with Snell breezing through the next 12 batters.

In the meantime, the Dodgers built a lead. Freddie Freeman homered to lead off the second. Ben Rortvedt (starting his third straight game behind the plate, even with Dalton Rushing back from a leg injury) added an RBI single later in the inning, following an Andy Pages hit-and-run single that put runners on the corners.

Another run came around in the fourth, after Pages worked a two-out walk, stole second, took third on a wild pickoff throw and scored on an RBI single from Kiké Hernández (who played third base in place of Max Muncy, who still felt “fuzzy” on Tuesday from a hit-by-pitch he took to the head over the weekend).

And from there, the Dodgers watched Snell cruise, with the $182-million offseason acquisition attacking the corners of the strike zone while also inducing misses on 24 of 54 swings.

The night culminated in the seventh, after walks to Nick Castellanos and Max Kepler drew Roberts out of the dugout. In the bullpen, left-hander Alex Vesia was getting warm. For a brief moment, it appeared the game would be in the hands of the relievers.

Snell had other ideas, signaling Roberts to hurry to the mound in the middle of his walk before seemingly pleading his case to stay in.

Whatever he said, Roberts listened.

Snell stayed on the rubber. A crowd of 50,859 roared in approval.

Against his final batter, Kemp, Snell fell behind, missing low with a changeup before pulling a fastball wide. Undeterred, he went back on the attack, getting one foul ball with a heater on the inner half, then another with a curveball that leaked over the plate. The count was 2-and-2. Chavez Ravine rose to its feet.

The next pitch — Snell’s 112th of the night — was another fastball, this time on the upper, outside corner at 95.3 mph. Kemp swung through it. Snell screamed and pumped his fist. In the dugout, Roberts raised an arm in the air, then began clapping as Snell walked off to a raucous ovation.

The next two innings were refreshingly simple. Alex Vesia retired the side in the top of the eighth. The Dodgers made it a five-run lead by scoring twice in the bottom half of the frame, including on Shohei Ohtani’s 51st home run of the season. Embattled closer Tanner Scott spun a stress-free ninth, pitching three consecutive scoreless outings for the first time since early July.

Come October, that’s the kind of blueprint the Dodgers (who maintained a two-game lead in the National League West over the San Diego Padres) will have to try and replicate.

Their bullpen still needs fixing. Their relief issues aren’t solved. But more gems like Snell’s would certainly help.

For five years, I dodged every bullet.

I don’t know how I managed to beat COVID-19 for so long, even as family, friends and colleagues got hit with the coronavirus. Although I took precautions from the beginning, with masking and vaccinations, I was also out in public a lot for work and travel.

But my luck has finally run out, and it must have been the air travel that did me in. I returned from a cross-country trip with a razor blade sore throat and a stubborn headache, followed by aches and pains.

The first test was positive.

I figured it had to be wrong, given my super-immunity track record.

The second test was even more positive.

So I’ve been quarantined in a corner of the house, reaching alternately for Tylenol and the thermometer. Everything is a little fuzzy, making it hard to distinguish between the real and the imagined.

For instance, how can it be true that just as I get COVID for the first time, the news is suddenly dominated by COVID-related stories?

It has to be a fever-induced hallucination. There’s no other way to explain why, as COVID surges yet again with another bugger of a strain, the best tool against the virus — vaccine — is under full assault by the leaders of the nation.

They are making it harder, rather than easier, to get medicine recommended by the overwhelming majority of the legitimate, non-crackpot wing of the medical community.

Under the new vaccine policies, prices are up. Permission from doctors is needed. Depending on your age or your home state, you could be out of luck.

Meanwhile, President Trump fired Susan Monarez, the head of the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, essentially for putting her own professional integrity and commitment to public service above crackpot directives from a cabal of vaccine skeptics.

And following Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s cancellation of $500 million in mRNA vaccine research, Trump is demanding that pharmaceutical companies show proof that vaccines work.

My eyes are red and burning, but can COVID be entirely to blame?

I got a booster before my travels, even though I knew it might not stand up to the new strain of COVID. It’s possible I have a milder case than I might have had without the vaccine. But on that question and many others, as new waves keep coming our way, wouldn’t the smart move be more research rather than less?

Trump downplayed the virus when it first surfaced in 2019 and 2020. Then he blamed it on China. He resisted masking, and lemmings by the thousands got sick and died. Then he got COVID himself. At one point, he recommended that people get the vaccine.

Now he’s putting on the brakes?

My headache is coming back, my eyes are still burning, and unless my Tylenol is laced with LSD, I think I just saw a clip in which Kennedy and Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth attempted 50 pull-ups and 100 push-ups in 10 minutes.

I appreciate the health and fitness plug, and because Kennedy and I are the same age — 71 — it’s impressive to see him in the gym.

But there’s something that has to be said about the Kennedy-Hegseth workout tape:

They’re cheating.

Take a look for yourself, and don’t be fooled by the tight T-shirts worn by these two homecoming kings.

Those were not full chin-ups or push-ups.

Not even close.

Cutting corners is the wrong message to send to the nation’s children, or to any age group. And how is anyone going to make it to the gym if they come down with COVID because they couldn’t get vaccinated?

Honestly, the whole thing has to be a fever dream I’m having, because in the middle of the workout, Kennedy said, and I quote, “It was President Trump who inspired us to do this.”

He is many things, President Trump. Fitness role model is not one of them, no matter how many times he blasts out of sand traps on company time.

Getting back to cutting corners, Kennedy said in slashing mRNA research that “we have studied the science,” with a news release link to a 181-page document purportedly supporting his claim that the vaccines “fail to protect effectively.”

That document was roundly eviscerated by hordes of scientists who were aghast at the distortions and misinterpretations by Kennedy.

“It’s either staggering incompetence or willful misrepresentation,” said Jake Scott, an infectious-disease physician and Stanford University professor, writing for the media company STAT. “Kennedy is using evidence that refutes his own position to justify dismantling tools we’ll desperately need when the next pandemic arrives.”

I lost my sense of smell a few days ago, but even I can tell you that stinks.

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John Middleton takes a bold step as he goes from vicar to villain in C4 soap Hollyoaks. The former Emmerdale legend has spoken about his time on set and his role as Froggy Black.

He played much-loved vicar Ashley Thomas in Emmerdale for 20 years, but now John Middleton has taken on a much darker role as Fraser “Froggy” Black – grandfather to villainess Grace Black and her sister Clare Devine – in Hollyoaks.

After years in Longmere Prison, Froggy is finally out – and heading straight back into the heart of his fractured family. “He does want to bring the family together,” John, 71, says. “For what purpose, that’s yet to be revealed. But he wants to restore the relationship between Clare and Grace.”

One of the highlights of his new role, John says, is working with Tamara Wall and Gemma Bissix, who play Grace and Clare. “They ask me, ‘What do you tell your wife when you go back home?’”, John shares.

“I say, ‘I don’t tell her anything. I sit in a corner, occasionally hugging my knees and rocking backwards and forwards,’” he jokes. “They’re a laugh to work with!”

READ MORE: Scottish brand has shoppers ‘stop using shower gel’ for natural alternative

Froggy made his first appearance in the Chester-based show in early August, seen behind bars with Tom Cunningham, whom he’d taken under his wing as a financial advisor.

When his granddaughters were arrested for their part in Clare’s husband’s trafficking ring, the reunion was icy. Still, Froggy was determined to win over Grace – despite his hatred for Clare.

Now, John teases that Froggy could blow the village apart. “He knows things, particularly about one particular person,” John says. “The past being revealed would be catastrophic for their present.

He knows something about people he’s most closely working with, which is going to be revealed. He knows a lot of secrets, he knows where all the bodies are buried – quite literally.

His past is possibly murderous, his present is possibly vengeful. Froggy is totally unpredictable. You never know what he’s going to do next.”

With secrets come enemies – but Froggy isn’t fazed. “He’s an incredibly manipulative person so the fact he’s got enemies doesn’t bother him,” John admits. “The fact that he has control over his enemies is essential to him.”

This isn’t John’s first brush with Hollyoaks . In 1997 he popped up as Cindy Cunningham’s doctor – a role he admits he’d forgotten about.

His soap career was then peppered with cameos. In the 1990s he appeared twice in Coronation Street – first as John Hargreaves, the driver who accidentally killed Lisa Duckworth, and later as a hospital consultant. Even Emmerdale wasn’t entirely new to him when he took on Ashley’s role.

“I was a policeman about a year and a half before becoming Ashley,” he says. “But Froggy is a completely different character, which is why I’m doing it.”

John says the whole Hollyoaks team made his transition easy. And though he still struggles with nerves, executive producer Hannah Cheers has assured him he’s in the right place.

“You adjust quickly to it and it was helped because everyone here is lovely,” he says. “My first few scenes, I was nervous. I was completely reassured when I bumped into Hannah and she said, ‘I really love what you’re doing.’ That was a great relief!”

Like this story? For more of the latest showbiz news and gossip, follow Mirror Celebs on TikTok, Snapchat, Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, YouTube and Threads.

I’m on a steadily rising road in northern Greece as swallows sweep over the burnished grasses to either side of me and pelicans spiral through the summer sky. Gaining height, the land thickens with oak forests and a Hermann’s tortoise makes a slow, ceremonial turn on to a sheep track at the edge of the asphalt. And then, just as the road briefly levels out before corkscrewing down the other side, a glittering lake appears beneath me – a brilliant blue eye set in a socket of steep mountains. I can’t even begin to count how many times I’ve crossed the pass into the Prespa basin on my way home from trips into town, but the sight of shimmering Lesser Prespa Lake – often striking blue in the afternoons and silvery at sunset – takes me back to the summer of 2000 when I saw it for the first time.

A little over 25 years ago, my wife and I read a glowing review of a book about the Prespa lakes region. In the north-west corner of Greece and an hour’s drive from the towns of Florina and Kastoria, the two Prespa lakes straddle the borders of Greece, Albania and North Macedonia in a basin of about 618 sq miles. We’d never heard of Prespa until then, but the review of Giorgos Catsadorakis’s Prespa: A Story for Man and Nature got us thinking about a holiday there, imagining a week or two of walking in the mountains, birding around the summer shores and enjoying food in village tavernas at night.

When the book finally arrived at our London flat, at a time when we were talking seriously about living somewhere else, it took just a single evening (and, to be fair, a couple of bottles of wine) to decide to leave the city behind. Not for a holiday, but to try to make a home for ourselves in the Prespa national park. Twenty-five years later, we’re still in the village we moved to – Agios Germanos.

I park the car near the pass and walk further into the hills on a path worn smooth by shepherds and their animals. It’s high summer and there’s a languor to the landscape. Clouds of butterflies drift on the hot air and a hoopoe raises its magnificent crest in an oak. From up here I can now see Great Prespa Lake as well, separated from its smaller neighbour by a wide and sandy isthmus. These two ancient lakes, thought to be in the region of 3-5 million years old, are almost entirely encircled by a bowl of mountains, making it feel a world apart when you cross into the basin. Although the water levels in the lakes have dropped significantly because of climate change in recent decades, Prespa remains a place of extraordinary vitality.

Looking north over the rolling oak forests, I can see the rough point in the lake where Greece, Albania and North Macedonia meet. Prespa is a crossroads not only of countries but of geologies too, resulting in an extraordinary profusion and abundance of wild species – almost three times as many butterfly species (172) can be found on the Greek side of Prespa than in the whole of the UK (59).

I look up as a mixed group of Dalmatian and great white pelicans lowers towards Lesser Prespa Lake. Seeing these birds in flight, carried across the mountains on wings that can have a total span of more than three metres, it feels as if you have been given a glimpse into the age of the dinosaurs. Until we read the book that brought us here, I had no idea that pelicans could even be found in Greece, let alone nest on these lakes in large numbers, but then Prespa is full of surprises. In some winters, Lesser Prespa Lake can freeze solid enough to walk across – and there are far more brown bears in the region than bouzoukis. While Prespa is a popular winter destination for Greek visitors, in part because of a ski-centre halfway between Florina and the basin, it’s the quieter spring and summer seasons when the place comes into its own for walking and nature tourism.

There’s a mosaic of cultural riches to explore here too: the remarkable ruins of the 1,000-year-old Byzantine basilica on the island of Agios Achilleios; the lakeside cliffs on Great Prespa Lake, studded with centuries-old hermitages and monastic cells, reached by hiring a boatman from the fishing village of Psarades; the churches screened by sacred groves of immense juniper trees, found on some of the many marked walking trails.

Besides the abundant nature and mountain walking that prompted us to move here, what also makes this place so special is the food and hospitality. There are welcoming, family-run guesthouses in many of the villages and excellent tavernas serving regional specialities, including slow-baked beans in a rich tomato sauce with oregano, fresh carp and sardine-sized tsironia from the lake, grilled florinela cheese brushed with red pepper marmalade, and wild greens called horta doused in lemon juice and olive oil.

I stop to watch the cross-hatchings of light on the lakes as the hum of insects deepens with the heat. A short-toed eagle turns into the wind ahead of me, briefly motionless as it hunts for snakes in the forest clearings. Then it steers northwards and away across the mountains. Beyond those peaks encircling Prespa are the beautiful, traditional market towns of Korҫë in Albania and Bitola in North Macedonia, which, together with Florina and lakeside Kastoria just outside the basin in Greece, help make the entire region one of endless fascination for me.

There are plans to re-open the long-closed crossing between Greece and North Macedonia within the Prespa basin in the next few years, an opportunity to build further bridges between communities and make movement for tourists easier. Another project will establish a cross-border walking route between our village and the neighbouring mountain village of Brajčino in North Macedonia; it will celebrate the cultural and natural heritage of the common watershed while highlighting the importance of low-impact tourism to local economies, particularly at a time when climate change is making itself felt around the lakes and threatening agricultural livelihoods.

It’s almost time to return along the path and head home, but first I sit in the shade of an oak, its leaves rustling in the warm breeze. A steel-blue dragonfly unzips the air and I can hear sheep bells somewhere in the hills. The sound shifts and swirls, just as on the saint’s day festivals of summer, called panigyria, when the wild, soaring music of clarinets and raucous Balkan brass rises into the mountain nights as people gather with food and drink to circle-dance in village squares.

I’ve never thought of Prespa as anything but a shared place, where human cultures and wild species come together and co-exist, a place best experienced slowly and with care. And although Prespa has been my home for a quarter of a century now, when I see that blue water glimmering beneath me as I cross the pass, it still so often feels like the first time.

For more information visit Society for the Protection of Prespa and Visit Prespes

The drive south through County Cork grew prettier with every turn. From Gougane Barra, where a tiny chapel sits at the lake’s edge, the road winds through old rebel country, into deep forests where foxgloves bloom along the mountainside. Bantry House – a magnificent estate overlooking a lovely bay – marked our path toward Ballydehob, West Cork’s boho village just north of the Mizen Head peninsula.

It’s a suitably impressive setting for Native, a new off-grid eco-guesthouse just a stone’s throw from the village. The brainchild of Didi Ronan (who previously worked in public policy and the music industry) and husband Simon (who runs the sustainable landscape architect studio SRLA), the aim was to create somewhere that has a positive impact on both the environment and local community.

Previously a derelict farmhouse, the chic three-bedroom B&B, set in beautiful gardens, celebrates Ireland’s craft heritage, too. From the communal living room – with its art books and antique maps – to the timber-clad garden sauna, every element is carefully considered. The bedrooms lean into a modern-meets-vernacular aesthetic, with muted tones and tactile textures. Ours opens on to a private patio, and above the bed are hundreds of vintage National Geographic magazines – collected by Didi’s grandmother – arranged in artful symmetry across a bespoke bookshelf.

Over dinner, a delicate crab risotto with fresh farm greens (evening meals, booked in advance, are intimate home-cooked affairs), the couple share their vision. Sparked by a flash of clarity Simon had while designing high-end eco-resorts in the Maldives, when the true cost of tourism on Indigenous land and ecology became unavoidable, they began dreaming of a new kind of hospitality. “Could a hotel not only tread lightly, but also give back to the land?” they wondered.

Sustainability is baked into the whole project, from the build to what they do with their profits. Instead of conventional plaster, Didi chose hemp – a more natural alternative – while Simon ensured that every existing material was reused, from the original foundations to the retaining walls. Two new cabins opening this summer aim to be the “gold standard in sustainable architecture”, made of local timber, hemp and wood wool fibre. A newly restored barn will open as a creative hub for workshops, natural wine tastings, and collaborations with foragers and craftspeople, too.

But perhaps most impressive of all is that 20% of Native’s profits go directly to their 75-acre rewilding site nearby – a living laboratory of native tree planting, invasive species removal, and ecological education. Guests are encouraged to visit – and the next day we drive 10 minutes along winding roads and walk across fields, their dog, Peig, darting ahead through rushes and briars, to learn more. “First, you eradicate invasive species. Then you conserve what you have, protect it from overgrazing, and then plant native trees to help things along,” Simon says.

At the ridge, the land opens into a sweep of sea and scattered islands. Below us lies Roaringwater Bay; behind, the skeletal remains of an old cottage clings to the earth. Didi gestures toward a patch of young trees. “The problem is huge – biodiversity, climate – but the solution’s simple: trees, wetlands, space.”

We carry on down towards an artificial lake, where dragonflies hover and moorhens skitter through the reeds. There we meet Sam Keane, a coastal forager and artist who runs immersive coastal tours guests can book, unlocking the powers of the sea, and demonstrating the tastes and powerful healing properties of seaweed and other ocean plant life.

Native is just a short stroll from the heart of Ballydehob, a village of just a few hundred but with plenty of pubs, and later that day I wander the pretty streets, soaking up a different kind of energy: human, social, alive. It’s a place that over-delivers, not in size but in spirit. At Levis Corner House the Wednesday market spills out on to the street. The heart of a thriving community, Levis is a pub, concert venue that hosts live performances from behind the old shop counter, and essentially a welcoming village living room.

There’s a lively art scene here too. The late potters Christa Reichel and Nora Golden helped found the local craft movement in the 1970s, still seen in venues like The Working Artist Studios on Main Street, and in the homegrown ceramics, textiles and artisan food shops crammed between colourful pub fronts and gable-end murals.

It’s a village that’s hard to leave, but the next day I set out to explore the area further. A 12-arch viaduct from the old rail line arcs across the estuary at the town’s edge. Pastel shop fronts curl along the hill. The 17th-century Butter Road leads from Ballydehob to Schull, a bright little harbour village. I stop and follow a walking trail through green lanes and quiet country roads, a soft scenic route, edged by hedgerows and sea glimpses, once used to carry churns of West Cork butter to market.

From here, Mizen Head begins, a tapering peninsula where the past is never far away. A Neolithic portal tomb lies accessible, close to the roadside overlooking the bay. I follow a path to Three Castle Head. Fields give way to a wide sweep of jagged coastline, steep tufty hills rising and falling in tandem with the Atlantic. The hike climbs gradually, then steeply,

and the ruins of three weather-beaten towers, 15th-century remnants of a defensive castle on a limestone ridge, come into view. From a distance, they seem almost grown from the rock itself, overlooking an indigo bay cupped in a lush green valley. Back in the car, the road dips and rises again toward Mizen Head Signal Station, mainland Ireland’s most southwesterly point. The footbridge to Fastnet signal station arches across sheer cliffs, a solid span above the Atlantic, cinematic in scale.

That evening, back in Ballydehob, I discover Chestnut, a Michelin-starred restaurant, where former pub walls now host a dining room led by chef Rob Krawczyk. His tasting menu captures the season with clear flavours: preserved, foraged and grown. Everything is impeccable and in keeping with the narrative I’ve uncovered in this progressive, ecologically minded, quietly radical corner of West Cork. As Didi put it, “Sustainability is only part of the story – regeneration is the next step.”

The trip was provided by Native. Double rooms from €200 a night B&B (two-night minimum). Exclusive hire of the guesthouse, sleeping six, from €650 per night, and garden sauna experience €75. Cabins, sleeping two, from €350. For more inspiration visit ireland.com

East Devon has all the ingredients for a wonderful weekend away – yet it remains a hidden gem. Here’s how you can spend 48 hours exploring the tranquil region

East Devon may not be the first name that springs to mind when considering a trip to the South West, but that’s exactly why it deserves your consideration. Tucked between the Dorset border and the outskirts of Exeter, this slice of countryside and coastline offers something increasingly elusive: peace without boredom, charm without the crowds.

If you’re seeking a short break that delivers beaches, culture, hearty cuisine and a sense of adventure, East Devon could be your best-kept secret – at least for now. Whether you’re an inquisitive explorer, a history buff, or a relaxed food lover, the area’s blend of historic towns, natural splendour, and leisurely delights has something to relish.

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This meticulously planned 48-hour itinerary will guide you through the highlights of East Devon in a weekend – and might leave you questioning why you didn’t visit sooner, as reported by Devon Live.

Day one in East Devon

Kick off your East Devon getaway on the fringes of Honiton at Heron Farm – a serene 17-acre sanctuary complete with an award-winning café, vineyard, and walled garden. It’s the perfect backdrop to ease into the weekend

Post-breakfast, take the brief journey into Honiton itself, a market town that strikes the perfect balance between hustle and old-world allure.

Honiton takes great pride in its history, especially its lace-making heritage. This is carefully preserved in Allhallows Museum, a small yet richly detailed collection that traces the town’s creative journey from the 16th century onwards.

It’s a stop that subtly rewards the curious, blending tactile heritage with archaeological intrigue. From Honiton, travel east to Axminster. This town beautifully embraces its rural surroundings, and just beyond its centre lies River Cottage, the culinary haven established by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

If you fancy a guided stroll through the kitchen gardens, a rustic meal, or even a hands-on cookery course, it’s essential to book ahead. It’s more than just a restaurant – it’s a philosophy rooted in the soil.

Axminster also holds its own when it comes to local history. The Axminster Heritage Centre provides a sweeping view of the town’s past, from Stone Age origins and Roman connections to its prominence in the carpet trade.

It’s compact, informative, and impressively curated. As the afternoon fades and your sweet tooth calls, head straight for The Community Waffle House.

There’s a homely warmth to this place – the waffles are made from a family recipe passed down through generations, and the atmosphere is as inviting as the plates are indulgent.

As the evening draws in, take a look at what’s on at Axminster Guildhall. This humble venue certainly punches above its weight, hosting a variety of events from tribute bands to film nights and comedy shows. It’s a relaxed yet vibrant way to round off the day.

Day two in East Devon

Sidmouth is your destination for day two, offering coastal charm and a cultural experience to match. Start your day with breakfast at The Kitchen, part of The Donkey Sanctuary.

It’s not just about the hearty and satisfying food – it’s also an opportunity to stretch your legs and meet some of the sanctuary’s long-eared inhabitants. There’s a tranquil atmosphere here that sets the mood for the day.

Just a short drive away you’ll find Kennaway House, an attractive regency mansion that regularly hosts exhibitions and craft fairs. Be sure to check their schedule before you visit as they occasionally close for private functions. If open, it’s a delightful place to wander through both contemporary and traditional art.

For those keen to delve deeper into Sidmouth’s history, the town’s museum provides a glimpse into its rich past – and not just behind glass. They also offer guided walks during the warmer months.

Whether you choose a historical town tour, a coastal geology stroll, or a shaded tree walk, each option starts and finishes at the museum and includes entry to the exhibits. It’s a thoughtful, active way to explore Sidmouth’s gentler side.

Then it’s off to Exmouth, where the South West Coast Path awaits. Fans of The Salt Path can follow in the footsteps of author Raynor Winn along this dramatic stretch of coastline. Even a half-day walk here feels like stepping into a beautifully written paragraph.

Before you leave Exmouth, make sure to visit A La Ronde – an architectural curiosity built in 1796 by cousins Jane and Mary Parminter. Its 16-sided structure is fascinating in itself, but what really steals the show is the Shell Gallery: a room decorated with thousands of shells in dizzying detail.

It’s the kind of place that’s hard to describe without photos.

If your legs (and energy levels) are up for it, the Exmouth Pavilion rounds out the itinerary. From live music to theatre and comedy, it’s a fitting place to end your 48 hours with a bit of entertainment and a sense of satisfaction.

Best festivals on offer

If your dates are flexible, consider timing your visit to coincide with one of East Devon’s growing festivals. Sidmouth Sea Fest kicks things off on Saturday 17 May, celebrating the town’s maritime spirit with free family fun, live music and local food.

Just a week later, the Sidmouth International Jazz and Blues Festival brings big names like Soul II Soul and Gabrielle to Blackmore Gardens (23–26 May). For a smaller town, Sidmouth boasts a remarkably vibrant cultural scene.

Another standout event is the Budleigh Music Festival. This summer, it’s set to host the London African Gospel Choir, Bath Philharmonia, and author Sir Michael Morpurgo, all performing in cosy venues dotted around Budleigh Salterton.

If your idea of a celebration leans more towards a culinary feast, then the Eat Festivals (also known as Gate to Plate) are just the ticket. The Axminster edition is scheduled for Monday 26 May, promising to fill the streets with some of the finest food and drink that the West Country has to offer.

Where to stay

Whether you’re a couple seeking coastal views or a family in search of some countryside tranquillity, East Devon’s accommodation options cater to all tastes.

In Sidmouth, the Kingswood and Devoran Hotel provides classic seafront comfort, complete with balconies overlooking the Jurassic Coast. For those who prefer a closer connection with nature, Cuckoo Down Farm offers glamping in safari lodges, complete with campfires and a charming rural setting.

Higher Wiscombe, also near Sidmouth, caters to larger groups with its luxury self-catering cottages and an outdoor pool – ideal for special occasions. If you’re after a cosier rural experience, Twistgates Farm Cottages near Honiton are tucked away within the rolling Blackdown Hills.

For those with a passion for food, The Pig at Combe (Honiton) combines country house elegance with produce from its own kitchen gardens. Over in Axminster, Lower Keats Glamping adds a touch of rustic luxury, while Andrewshayes Holiday Park offers family-friendly facilities and sweeping views of the countryside.

East Devon doesn’t clamour for recognition – it garners it subtly. It’s a region rich in layered histories, hidden allure, and generous landscapes.

In merely 48 hours, you’ll encounter more than a mere change of scenery; you’ll experience a change in tempo, a reconnection with the local, and perhaps a rekindling of what makes travel truly significant.

This isn’t merely a weekend escape – it’s a call to decelerate, observe more keenly, and become enamoured with a part of the country that is confidently authentic.