Journalist Liv Clarke visited a joyful Christmas market in a UK town which she says matches any European-style winter wonderland – and has ‘the best’ hot chocolate
Christmas Markets have been bustling for several weeks now and journalist Liv Clarke says she’s “certainly no Grinch” when they pop up, adding that she “relishes” them. Based in Manchester, Liv took a train to an exceptional festive wonderland recently – and she was left enchanted with the “different” kind of Christmas market.
Liv said she loves to “uncover something new each year” at Christmas markets and found herself “whizzing over to Yorkshire on the train on a frosty November morning”, to see how they celebrate Christmas across the border. Heading to Halifax, which hosts an annual Christmas Market each year in the grand Piece Hall, Liv, being a “proud Yorkshire lass” herself, was more than happy to head to the West Yorkshire town.
She said that “getting to these markets couldn’t be simpler” via a pretty train journey – and Liv described the “stunning Grade-I Georgian building” of the the Piece Hall which “boasts a massive 66,000sq ft open-courtyard” as being truly memorable.
She said: “I hopped on the train from Manchester Victoria to Halifax, which takes around 40 minutes, and the Piece Hall is roughly a five-minute stroll from the train station. My ticket set me back £12.59 for an open return which I booked on Trainline the day before, including Railcard discount.”
This works out just over £6 each way, she added, having booked ahead of travelling, which means you can sometimes find one-way tickets at low cost, reports the Manchester Evening News.
Liv said: “The train journey itself was picturesque, especially with a heavy frost adding a sparkle to the rugged landscape of the South Pennines. I passed through Rochdale, Todmoden and Hebden Bridge along the way, admiring the canals and mills which looked particularly striking in the bright sunshine.
“Upon my arrival in Halifax, it was a mere short stroll to the Piece Hall, tucked away from the main thoroughfare. Entry is through one of four gates situated on each side of the square, and there’s something rather grand about stepping through the archway.
“The gate I chose boasted an exquisitely ornate design, adding to the enchantment of the experience. It was still early when I arrived, with many stallholders preparing for the day ahead, but I was already taken with the layout; compared to Manchester, it was refreshing to see the markets here confined to one area, providing a respite from the hustle and bustle of the main high street.”
While waiting for the markets to fully open, Liv took the opportunity to explore the Piece Hall itself, describing “dozens of shops” lining all four sides of the square.
She said: “Given its location on a slight incline, there are varying levels depending on which side you’re on, yet each open-air walkway affords stunning views of the square below.
“On the ground floor, you’ll discover a plethora of cafes and restaurants, many of which stay open late into the evening. I treated myself to a hot chocolate from The Bakery (£3.95), which ranks among the best I’ve ever tasted: rich, chocolatey and perfectly sweetened.”
The Piece Hall is home to shops selling a wide array of items, from handmade gifts to antiques – and while these independent shops operate year-round, “the markets provide a significant boost, with many market traders even supplying the permanent shops”, Liv reported.
Shelly Foster, who runs The Handmade Gift Shop, shared her recommendation for the best time to visit, telling Liv: “The markets are always full of joy, the best time is around 4.30pm, just before sunset when everything is glowing. The markets are open until 7pm on Fridays and Saturdays but the bars and restaurants stay open much later, often with live music creating a lovely atmosphere.”
Lou Harkness-Hudson, who operates Hudson Belle, a shop selling gifts and homeware, said: “It’s just the most unique, unusual place to come, it’s a fantastic building, an excellent community. The markets are a crucial time for us and really boost footfall, it doesn’t get any busier than this. They bring people here to shop and have a nice day out.”
Liv continued to explore, adding: “Back at ground level, the markets were open and shoppers started to wander around as the morning sun began to thaw us all out. There was a fantastic selection of stalls, with many naturally selling products from Yorkshire.
“From rum to cheese to chilli oil – if you can name it, they sell it. Then there were stalls selling hats, gloves and scarves, which I imagine were in high demand during my chilly visit, along with several traders offering the most beautiful decorations and trinkets you could imagine.
“Adding to the enchantment was a merry-go-round and a large Ferris wheel, although it was spinning a bit too quickly for my taste. Given that it was a swinging-seat style wheel, I opted to sit this one out. Nonetheless, it was pleasant to observe.”
In one corner of the square, a towering Christmas tree stood majestically, with a massive ‘Christmas’ sign displayed against the balustrades of the Piece Hall’s second floor behind it, creating an idyllic scene. Liv described.
Liv added: “It’s the setting of the Piece Hall that makes this place special – it genuinely feels like you’re in a European city, rather than in the north of England.
“Naturally, there are far fewer food stalls here than in Manchester, which I found quite appealing. No overwhelming choices here; instead, I easily settled on my early lunch: a Yorkshire Bratwurst from The Sausage Box.
“This was crafted with a locally sourced pork Bratwurst from ‘Lishman’s of Ilkley’, served in a brioche bun with sauerkraut, pickles, crispy onions, ketchup and mustard, all for £9. It was a sight to behold and almost seemed too good to be true.”
Upon taking a bite, Liv said it “lived up to its looks”. She described the sausage as “succulent with a hint of smokiness, the toppings combined to create a flavour explosion, and it was surprisingly easy to eat – no stringy bits of meat or tough bread causing a mess”.
Liv added: “It felt much more thrilling than the Bratwurst stalls we have here in Manchester.”
“Naturally, there’s a stall selling Yorkshire pudding wraps if that tickles your fancy. As a proud Yorkshire lass myself, I wouldn’t dare to sample a pudding made by anyone other than my own mum while in God’s Own County, so I gave that one a miss.
“Other stalls were serving up Indian street food and Paella, while the surrounding eateries included an Italian restaurant and a wine bar that looked rather inviting. After my Bratwurst, I fancied something sweet, so I made a beeline for the churros stall.
“I must confess, it took three attempts to get my hands on some churros, as twice I was informed that the machine was, quite literally, frozen. But as they say, third time’s the charm, and I finally secured my paper cup of golden churros, dusted with crunchy cinnamon sugar and sitting in a pool of chocolate sauce.”
The churros cost £8, with the sauce costing an extra £1, which “seemed reasonable given the generous portion size” which Liv “couldn’t even finish”.
She added: “While I’m not usually one for sweets, even I found these delightful, with the texture being spot-on and just the right amount of chewiness. The sauce was scrumptious and tasted like genuine chocolate rather than a synthetic substitute.”
Summing up the festive experience, Liv said that “everything about the markets was a joy: the location, the people, and the food” – and if she visits again she may even brave a spin on the Ferris wheel, but she’s “making no promises”.
