castles

WHEN Corfe Castle was besieged during the English Civil War, little else surrounded it bar rolling countryside and a narrow river below.

Today the rocky ruins of the 11th century fortress, perched high on a hill, watch over a jumble of wonky brick buildings housing antique stores crammed with dainty ornaments and cafes selling cakes piled high with whipped cream.

With such a chocolate-box look to it, I’m not surprised that this teeny Dorset gem, just a 25-minute drive south of Poole, is so frequently-named the prettiest village in the UK.

Autumn is a spectacular time to visit Corfe Castle village. In the coming months, the ivy that clings to the thatched cottages will have turned a fiery shade of red and the beginnings of the wintry chill can be soothed with a pint in front of a roaring log burner at the local pub.

Aptly named after the old fortress itself, this village is one of the many highlights of a post-summer visit to this area.

I return to this neck of the woods every autumn, in part because of the unspoilt beaches, which look just as beautiful in blustery season as they do in pure sunshine, and also for the cliff-top hiking trails that give way to jaw-dropping views over the rolling ocean.

DRINK UP

Top 17 boozers in the Garden of England – including historic 600-year-old tavern

SANDS NICE

Secluded English cottage where your garden is the BEACH that ‘doesn’t look real’

From the top of the South West Coast Path with nothing but ocean on the horizon, it can feel like you’re standing at the very edge of earth.

This time I am staying at a Dorset Hideaways property, the rather grand Grove Lodge in Osmington, close to Ringstead Bay.

Sleeping up to 11, this holiday home is completely geared up for large groups and families, with five contemporary country-style bedrooms.

As well as a spacious sitting room with a cosy fireplace, there’s a smart country kitchen, dining room, snug and a small annex, which comes with its own double bed and a mini kitchenette.

The standout feature of the property, however, has to be its cracking location, less than a 20-minute drive from family-friendly Weymouth beach and half an hour from Corfe Castle.

In summertime, Weymouth comes alive with holidaymakers chomping on candy floss, pushing pennies through the arcade’s slot machines and settling on the sands for a Punch and Judy puppet show.

But some may say it’s even better in autumn when beaches are empty and dogs almost outnumber humans, splashing about in the frothing waves (pooches are banned from the main section of the beach in summer months).

Staggering views

Those visiting without kids, on the other hand, should head to Lulworth Cove, just a 20-minute drive in the opposite direction from Grove Lodge, where the deep blue sea is framed by a horseshoe of pebbles.

The walk from here to the famous Durdle Door — named after a natural limestone arch protruding from the ocean — is a popular one, mainly because of the staggering views.

Just come prepared for a steep climb, and make sure you’re well-fuelled for it. In my opinion, there’s no better way to do that than with a top-notch Sunday roast.

One of the best portions of fish and chips you’ll ever eat will set you back £20, while a fresh crab brioche roll served with chips costs £16

Head to the nearby Weld Arms, where plates of pillowy Yorkshire puddings accompany slices of rare roast beef doused in meaty gravy. Or for a lighter bite, the Boat Shed Cafe, right on Lulworth Cove, dishes up fish finger sandwiches, jacket spuds and home-made soups, all for around a tenner.

If you’re after something really special, nothing beats The Anchor Inn in Seatown, which sits at the edge of a relatively isolated pebble beach, further west of Lulworth.

Fresh and local is the order of the day here and the fish-focused menu is one that keeps foodies coming back. I devoured a big bowl of bouillabaisse (French fish stew) which was packed with prawns the size of my fists and flaky salmon, served with a hunk of sourdough.

One of the best portions of fish and chips you’ll ever eat will set you back £20, while a fresh crab brioche roll served with chips costs £16.

And for dessert? Tea and cake is best consumed in Corfe Castle. The cafe serves generous wedges of raspberry cake and caramel shortbread coated in a thick layer of chocolate.

COST CUTTER

John Lewis launches early Black Friday sale a MONTH early with up to £300 off

SPY STORY

Telltale clues CHEATERS use to spot you secretly reading their dodgy texts & pics

This is the place to pick up holiday souvenirs, too. Trinkets are aplenty in the little shops that line the main street, from home-made soaps to coffee table books, detailing the best UK surfing spots, many of which are in the surrounding areas.

Well . . .  when in Rome.

The Conwy Valley Line weaves through the dramatic valleys of Blaenau Ffestiniog, skirts a wildlife-abundant estuary and traces the rolling hillsides and striking rock faces of this breathtaking corner of North West Wales

One of Britain’s most picturesque railway routes has welcomed passengers back after reopening to the public.

The Conwy Valley Line weaves through the dramatic valleys of Blaenau Ffestiniog, skirts a wildlife-abundant estuary and traces the rolling hillsides and striking rock faces of this breathtaking corner of North West Wales.

Despite covering just 26 miles between Llandudno and Blaenau Ffestiniog, the journey takes over an hour. This is mainly because of the line’s winding and steep character, which snakes through the spectacular mountains and wild beauty of Snowdonia National Park.

Whilst the route primarily serves local residents and daily commuters, it has become a magnet for railway enthusiasts. One visitor praised on Tripadvisor: “The line from Blaenau Ffestiniog up to Llandudno is incredibly scenic, and if you’re looking for a rail journey in Snowdonia this is right up there with the heritage narrow gauge lines.”

READ MORE: Last flight cancelled to Scotland’s most remote airport leaving hidden gem town strandedREAD MORE: Last flight cancelled to UK’s most remote airport leaving hidden gem town stranded

During a debate about Britain’s most beautiful railway routes, one rail enthusiast commented: “How has nobody mentioned the Conwy Valley? It’s utterly spectacular and crams more into an hour than the ECML does into four. One of the nicest little tours you can do in the UK is a loop of Chester-Llandudno Jn-Blaenau-Porthmadog-Machynlleth-Shrewsbury-Chester, though you’ll probably need to use a bus rather than the FfR for the middle bit at present.”, reports the Express.

The railway line welcomed passengers back on Monday, 27 October, after a month of round-the-clock engineering work by Network Rail, forming part of a £1.4 million investment to strengthen the railway against severe weather conditions.

Throughout the past four weeks, engineering crews have been operating across the picturesque valley – felling dangerous trees and clearing 600,000m2 of overgrown vegetation spanning 54 miles of railway track. The extensive clearance work aims to stop fallen trees from obstructing the line when storms strike in future.

An innovative, cutting-edge approach to tackling the traditional issue of leaves on the line is also being tested.

Network Rail has introduced a pioneering rail treatment to the Conwy Valley line for the first time in Wales. A specialist road-to-rail vehicle has been applying a gel formula to the tracks.

The treatment dissolves leaf debris and remains active for up to seven days before being reactivated by rainfall.

“The Conwy Valley line is one of the most picturesque in Wales, but also one of the most weather-exposed. In the past decade, storms have forced the line to close for more than 500 days – disrupting passengers and the transportation of freight goods,” Network Rail wrote in a statement.

Beyond its scenic beauty, the line offers numerous attractions at various stations along the route. Visitors can:

• Experience life as a Welsh slate miner at Llechwedd, where you can join a deep mine tour, go off-road in a quarry explorer, or have a go at slate splitting. From the mine, you can take a ride on Europe’s steepest cable railway as you’re brought back to the surface.
• Learn about local life at Llandudno Museum and Gallery, which is located in the heart of this seaside town. It is a great place to uncover the fascinating stories of local people and how the area has developed over hundreds of years.
• Discover hidden gems as you explore the Conwy Valley line on foot with Ramblers and Transport for Wales. Travel by train and explore on foot with a series of exciting walking routes with Go Jauntly and Transport for Wales.
• Request a stop at Roman Bridge. The station is an ideal starting point for walkers and cyclists looking to explore the area’s breathtaking scenery. Take in the views of the secluded cwm of Blaenau Dolwyddelan before walking to Dolwyddelan Castle, the 12th-century stronghold of Prince Llywelyn the Great.
• Stop off at Deganwy. The town overlooks Snowdonia, the Conwy Estuary, Puffin Island, and Anglesey. Just behind the town is the site of Castell Deganwy, once the seat of King Maelgwn Gwynedd. This much-visited attraction (rebuilt by Henry III in 1245) dates back to the 6th century and plays an important role in the history of Wales.
• Frolic in the spray of a waterfall. The Conwy Falls are located near Vetws-y-Coed and cascade down a gorge in the Fairuy Glen area.