I visited the bucket list destination with Disney-style artwork, pink cities and direct Virgin Atlantic flights
ARRIVING in India, I feel like Dorothy entering Oz. This country is an assault on the senses in every way.
One minute I’m practising sunrise yoga to the peaceful sound of birds chirping; the next, I’m surrounded by loud honking cars and bikes on a bumpy bus ride through the city.
My serene morning walk at the green Lodi Gardens sits in complete contrast to the brightly coloured markets, selling vibrant yellow flower garlands under the smell of rich incense, that I’m exploring just hours later.
It was my first visit to India and naturally, as a solo female tourist, safety was at the forefront of my mind. But the tide is changing with regard to how women are accepted across the country, and this has been incorporated into Intrepid’s unique Women’s Expedition tours.
It supports locals on the ground, and I met some during my stay in Chandelao.
A tiny village an hour from Jodphur and off the tourist trail, it is home to just 3,500 people.
There, I explored the local arts centre Sunder Rang, which employs women to work — uncommon especially in more rural areas.
The shop is full of multicoloured items made from scrap fabrics, with everything from clothing and bags to decorations on sale.
One of the young jewellery makers let me try my hand at threading beads as we huddled together in the shade.
Due to my novice skills, I resorted to buying her handmade necklaces (guided by her on which to choose, as they even earn commission).
My art skills were tested further at Chandelao Garh, a stunning 17th century former fort now a hotel with 20 rooms and a swimming pool.
Locals taught me the art of Rangoli — circular patterns drawn on the ground in celebration.
I was only slightly offended when the cheeky hotel dog Pluto walked all over my wonky chalk designs.
Chandelao is the kind of village where slowness is encouraged — be it a sunset walk through the streets or a leisurely candlelit dinner chased by a Kingfisher beer.
But just a few hours east is the crowd-heavy Jaipur, nicknamed the Pink City for its terracotta walls.
Keen to escape the market chaos, I opted for a tour with Renu, a rare female tuk-tuk driver and now chair of tour company Pink City Rickshaw.
While the women face adversity from both family and other male drivers, the job gives them economic independence.
I was whirled around in the electric tuk-tuks, exploring the Old City with street food stops to keep me going in the 33C heat. I recommend trying Sabudana tikki, an Indian hash brown with tapioca, followed by a cooling kheer rice pudding.
The female rickshaw drivers were patient enough to let me take my selfies at the famous pink Hawa Mahal palace, too.
Built to allow the female royal household to watch the city without being seen by others, the towering palace wall was too beautiful to skip.
It was as I was gazing up at the intricately carved windows (of which there are 953) that my driver explained some of the stares we noticed from locals while in the tuk-tuk.
“We’ve seen male drivers crash into walls, they are so shocked to see a woman behind the wheel,” Renu told me with a laugh.
My experience of the Fast & Furious-esque rickshaws that squeeze through impossible gaps in the traffic means this doesn’t exactly surprise me. Thankfully, the women drive at a slower, safer pace for any nervous travellers.
Travelling further east, we head to Agra, home to the historic red sandstone Agra Fort and one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal.
Haggled for scarves
It’s worth the 4.30am wake-up to see the sky lighting up behind the domed mausoleum, built over two decades by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in honour of his late wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
It’s almost impossible to comprehend the details that remain after 400 years, with the bright white marble towering 240ft high, ornamented with jewels and intricate patterns.
The early start also allows you to avoid the huge crowds and the midday heat.
I managed to skip the lunchtime crush by visiting Sheroes, a cafe run by acid-attack survivors.
It’s a hard visit, where staff share their stories about being injured.
Over homecooked chickpea curries and roti, I chatted to 25-year-old Dolly, who was attacked as a child by a man 22 years her senior. The cafe gave her confidence to re-enter society.
Being a female traveller, the Intrepid tour helped me explore the country safely as a woman.
I stopped in Jodhpur, the Blue City, and learned about the beautiful Mehrangarh Fort which was used to film Batman movie, The Dark Knight Rises, and the live-action movie The Jungle Book.
And in chaotic Delhi, I haggled for handwoven scarfs from eager market vendors, before being dragged into dance by a man wearing a bejewelled elephant outfit.
India might have a way to go still when it comes to equality. But it’s certainly on the right trajectory.
And with Virgin Atlantic now celebrating 25 years of flying to this awe-inspiring country, it shows this a destination that will always be top of British holidaymakers’ bucket lists.
I’ll be back.
After a click of my new ruby red Indian slippers, of course.
GO: INDIA
GETTING THERE: Return flights from London Heathrow to Delhi with Virgin Atlantic are from £457. See virginatlantic.com.
STAYING THERE: Intrepid’s India Women’s Expedition starts at £885, including 13 days’ accommodation, internal transport, some activities (Pink City Rickshaw tours) and some meals. See intrepidtravel.com.