alive

Warm lights shine from the houses that dot the wintry slopes of Mount Fløyen and a cold wind blows as I stand in a swimming costume trying to talk myself into joining my friends in Bergen harbour. Stars are already appearing in the inky mid-afternoon sky.

Life-changing moments are easy to spot in retrospect, but at the time they can feel so ordinary. I didn’t know then that my wintry swim would lead to a year of adventures. I was a hair’s breadth from wimping out, but then I was in. The water was so cold it burned. I gasped for breath. The bones in my feet ached with cold as I trod water, legs frantic under the dark surface. It lasted under a minute and then we were out.

As we warmed up, hands around mugs of hot chocolate, skin zinging from the experience, more and more women arrived at the cafe, hair wet from the sea. As stars spread across the early evening sky, we chatted about swimming and how it made us feel. I’d been looking for something to pick me up ever since I had left my job on the verge of burnout. I said to my friend: “I’m going to spend a year doing this. I’ve finally found what makes me feel alive. I’m going to spend a year swimming in the Nordic countries.”

There are some delightful generalisations to make about Nordic people. Finns, they say, are born in the sauna. Norwegians are said to be born on skis. But if you ask me, all Nordic people are born with saltwater in their veins: that’s how much they love the sea. In Iceland it’s so ingrained that people see water as a cure-all. If you need time to think, if you need perspective, they say you should lay your head in water. It became my mantra for the year.

I decided to swim once a week wherever I was. After my experience in Bergen, I returned to my home in Copenhagen and started to plot a route around the region. Where would I swim if I could swim anywhere? I could take a dip in the harbour outside my flat – that was easy. But what about Sweden, 35 minutes away by train? What about the Arctic – could I do that? Maybe I’d swim in Allas Pool, the heated floating swimming pool in Helsinki harbour I’d seen on Instagram.

As a journalist covering Scandinavia, the travel side was easy; all I had to do was pack my kit wherever I went on assignment. I only needed a swimming costume, two towels, one for my feet and one for my body, and an S hook to hang my bag from. That last tip came from a lady I swam with one pitch-black morning in central Copenhagen: you don’t want to inadvertently leave your bag in a puddle, after all.

I reached out to other Scandinavian swimmers on Instagram to ask if I could join them for a dip if I was in town. I looked up places with saunas, natural spas and simple stretches of beach where other people regularly swam. Serendipitously, things started to happen. I went to write about a tiny hotel on a remote archipelago in Arctic Norway and I found myself packing a swimming costume. I landed in a snowstorm and the next day picked my way down an icy path from the Arctic Hideaway’s sauna to the quay in my flip-flops. Looking down, I could make out the dark purple spiny sea urchins moving on the seafloor. And then I was in, head under the water, in a sea where an orca had been seen just days before.

At the Arctic Hideaway I met Siri, a champion freediver, and a few months later I went to meet her in Oslo. I swam in a harbour pool all by myself, as if I owned it, with views of the Oslofjord’s rocky pine-covered islands stippling the horizon. At lunch, Siri told me how she had dived with orca in northern Norway and seen a huge bull orca spot her, turn and swim towards her. He had appraised her with one of his black eyes before calmly swimming away. I was in awe of what you can find in the sea if you go looking.

As the year went on, my swimming confidence grew. I met dippers dressed as mermaids, whirlpool swimmers, lighthouse swimmers and a lot of naked swimmers. I met people setting themselves big swimming challenges, and those who make a daily practice of submerging themselves in the water for their health and for fun. It has been a life-changing adventure.

I knew I had really changed when I found myself swimming in Greenland. On a tiny island called Uunartoq in the south of the country, I stripped down to my black swimming costume. Just off shore, two icebergs, each the size of a three-bedroom detached house, floated beneath stern black mountains. Up the hill, there was a natural hot pool with gently simmering water. But all I wanted to do was get in the sea.

My feet sank into the feather-soft sand of the beach as I ran and threw my body into the waves. Little pieces of seaweed drifted in the water and I could see all the way to the bottom. I was out quickly, unable to take the cold for long. But I ran up and down the beach to warm up so I could go in again, this time for longer. Then I climbed the hill and sank into the 38C waters of the island’s hot spring, watching tiny bubbles percolate up from the silty floor.

After a year of swimming in some of the world’s coldest seas, I’ve learned a lot about my ability to do hard things. I’ve learned that doing things that make you feel alive, with other people who feel the same, is intoxicating. I’ve found that sinking into nature on a regular basis makes you feel part of it. I’d started the year feeling burnt out and depressed, not sure if I could find a future for myself in this part of the world. But I learned that while I will always be English, it’s still possible to get a little saltwater in your veins.

The Year I Lay My Head in Water: Swimming Scandinavia in Search of a Better Life by Laura Hall is published by Icon at £18.99. To support the Guardian, buy your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

James Bond and MobLand star Pierce Brosnan shared what “keeps him alive” as he reflected on his acting career and whether he plans to continue

Pierce Brosnan has opened up about his views on retirement, following his latest role in the biographical sports drama Giant. The film tells the story of boxer Prince Naseem Hamed, portrayed by Amir El Masry, with Pierce taking on the role of Brendan Ingle, the fighter’s former trainer.

The narrative follows Hamed’s journey from a working-class boy in Sheffield to becoming a world featherweight champion, guided by Brendan’s coaching both inside and outside the ring.

Knowing all too well about having a modest upbringing, Pierce relocated to London with his mother aged 11 to start a new life and pursue drama school.

Decades later, he’s built an impressive body of work spanning films and television series, including James Bond, Mrs. Doubtfire, Remington Steele, Mamma Mia! and MobLand.

Reflecting on Naseem’s career concluding at 28, Pierce explained why he’s determined to continue working at 72. “It’s the creative life that keeps me alive,” the Irish-born star revealed.

“I’m 72, time is moving on for me and I can feel the tick of it. I’ve been down this path a long time now, but what else do I do but really live the life and the time that I have left?”.

During the same interview with The Independent, the actor also praised his family, especially his wife Keely Shaye Brosnan, for their unwavering support throughout his career.

Discussing the source of his confidence, in what he described as the “capricious” world of acting, he explained: “Family, for sure. I have a great wife, who’s given me wings to fly.

“I’m a catholic, and my faith is very strong and you have to be as tough as old boots to be in the game this long.”

Pierce also spoke about the prospect of retirement while promoting Netflix’s The Thursday Murder Club last year.

The film, adapted from Richard Osman’s bestselling book series, follows a group of friends living in a retirement home who enjoy solving murders as a hobby, only to become embroiled in a case themselves.

Speaking about his role to USA Today, Pierce said he feels “very fortunate” to still be working as an actor and confessed he wouldn’t have a clue what to do if he hung up his boots.

“The doing of being an actor and the constant doing of it is invigorating,” he explained.

When he’s not on set, the star treasures quality time with his family.

Wed to Keely since 2001, the pair share two sons, Paris and Dylan. From his first marriage to Cassandra Harris, he legally adopted her three children Charlotte, Sean and Christopher.

Heartbreakingly, Charlotte lost her life in 2013 at just 41 following a battle with ovarian cancer, the same disease that claimed Cassandra’s life in 1991.

Speaking previously to Esquire in 2017 about his approach to parenting and being brought up by a single mother, he reflected: “I know what it’s like to bring up sons.

“It can be a very arduous road. My fatherly instincts are purely my own. They relate back to no one, because there was no one.”

THE list of living names in Billy Joel’s We Didn’t Start the Fire has shrunk to a jaw-dropping three.

Three decades after the tongue-twister song topped charts around the world, most of its human landmarks are gone. 

Out of the 59 people name-checked in the 1989 mega-hit, only Bob Dylan, rock n roll singer Chubby Checker, and “subway vigilante” Bernie Goetz are still alive. 

The grim-but-fascinating fact has been doing the rounds on social media after Bardot’s death was announced on Sunday.

One shocked fan admitted: “This is how I find out Chubby Checker is still alive.” 

Another said: “The kind of useless trivia I’ll be physically incapable of not repeating at the next dinner party.”

SCREEN GODDESS

How Brigitte Bardot became face of swinging 60s & sparked sexual revolution

DARK TIMES

Billy Joel reveals he attempted suicide twice after affair with bandmate’s wife

Billy’s catchy banger is a whirlwind history lesson.

It rattles through headlines and pop culture moments in strict chronological order starting the year Billy Joel was born in 1949, and racing toward the late 1980s.

One of the song’s most packed lines – “Bardot, Budapest, Alabama, Khrushchev” – covers 1956, the year iconic French actress Brigitte Bardot shot to global fame in And God Created Woman. 

It also nods to the Hungarian Revolution in Budapest, the Montgomery Bus Boycott in Alabama, and Nikita Khrushchev’s rise to power in the Soviet Union after Stalin’s death. 

Music also runs through the song like a second timeline.

Chart topper Billy, now age 79, kicks things off with Cry singer Johnnie Ray in 1949, one of the first modern pop stars signed to a major label. 

He quickly follows with Bill Haley & His Comets, whose Rock Around the Clock sent rock ’n’ roll into overdrive. 

Elvis Presley turns up in 1955, Buddy Holly marks 1959 and the tragedy of the Day the Music Died, Chubby Checker dances into 1960.

Bob Dylan appears in 1961 as pop music takes a sharp turn toward protest and social change.

By the time Joel hits the mid-to-late 1960s, it’s Beatlemania and Woodstock.

Bernie Goetz gets a mention after he became a household name in 1984 for shooting four black men on a train in New York after they allegedly demanded money.

One of the men was left brain damaged and paraplegic, and the shooting became a symbol of deep racial divide in the city.

Goetz handed himself in to police nine days later and was dubbed the “subway vigilante” by local media.