Occasional Digest

I found the hidden side to one of Europe’s most popular islands with pool rooms and massive buffet breakfast station

Collage of images showcasing travel to Crete, including a resort, a boat, and an island.

THREE steps. That was all it took to go from my villa’s back door to the pool.

Around me, the gentle hum of cicadas and the fragrant breeze of Mediterranean flora filled the air.

Take a dip at the pool at Rocrita Credit: Supplied
Unwind at the tranquil Rocrita resort Credit: ©Heinz Troll

It was everything I had imagined rural Greece to be, and more.

While I was on the popular island of Crete, Ella Resorts’ Rocrita sits on the quieter, eastern side where many tourists don’t venture.

For miles around, the only views are of the shimmering Aegean and a blanket of green olive groves across the rolling hills.

The all-inclusive 5* resort only opened a few months ago, so everything still had that new feel and fresh scent.

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Rooms range from deluxe to two-bedroom suites, many with swim-up pool access.

My earthy-toned villa had a spacious bedroom with customisable lighting, and a plush lounge with stylish sofas, a Nespresso machine, TV and writing desk.

The lounge also had a mini-fridge, restocked daily with complimentary soft drinks.

The bathroom had all the essentials plus a few luxuries — think high-end exfoliating loofahs and boujee body lotion.

The historic island of Spinalonga was once a Venetian fortress and later became a leper colony Credit: Alamy
Take in a boat tour around the islands Credit: Alamy

When you aren’t in your swim-up pool, there are other pools across the resort lined with loungers looking out to the ocean.

Sprawled in a cabana by one of the main pools with a spritz, I tucked into a freshly made pistachio tiramisu from the street food hub right next to the pool — just one of many mouthwatering desserts to tempt you.

Guests can also enjoy direct beach access to a quiet stretch of coast, dotted with the comfiest beanbag loungers I’ve had the pleasure of laying on.

Families are well-served, with a Ninja Warrior-style obstacle course suspended over a pool, a creche and a kids’ club.

Couples can head to Roée Spa for a treatment, plus steam rooms and a sauna.

And when it came to dining, I was spoilt for choice with six à la carte and buffet restaurants.

These featured a wide mix of cuisines curated by Michelin-star chefs including traditional Greek dishes as well as Italian and Mexican.

At Smigo, there were cold and warm plates, freshly made bread and locally caught seafood.

Head up into the mountains to the 15th-century Toplou Monastery, where you can taste a flight of eight organic wines Credit: Alamy
Unwind at Ella Resorts’ Rocrita Lifestyle Beach Resort Credit: ©Heinz Troll

It was a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach, with colourful, fragrant ingredients in every dish.

The star of the show, though, was definitely breakfast — in fact, it was the biggest I’ve ever seen.

Spread across four buffet stations, there were all the breakfast items I could think (or dream) of, including semolina pudding, fresh pastries, antipasti, fully cooked breakfast items, pancakes, yoghurt, omelettes, cakes, fresh fruit . . .  the list goes on.

Without exaggerating, I ate so much each morning I didn’t need to have lunch.

For a tipple, there were four bars, including one stocking 300 local and international wines.

There’s enough to do that you needn’t leave the resort, but staff can arrange excursions if you want to explore.

Rooms at the resort start from £166 a night Credit: Supplied
Savour freshly made bread and locally caught seafood including octopus Credit: Getty

Try the historic island of Spinalonga, an hour’s drive away.

Once a Venetian fortress, the island later became a leper colony — which was one of the last in Europe, before being abandoned and left as it is, with the same sights on the island there today.

A ferry runs every half hour and costs €12 (£10.44) return.

For something slower-paced, head up into the mountains to the 15th-century Toplou Monastery, where you can taste a flight of eight organic wines including white, rose and red.

To accompany the wines you’ll get a plate of cheeses, olives, figs, breadsticks and oil, and a host talking you through how the wine is made and the history of the monastery.

Whether I’d spent the day uncovering the history of a forgotten island or tasting wine in the hills, the best part was always returning to my villa in this untouched corner of Greece, sliding into my swim-up pool with a glass of local wine in hand and floating to the familiar soundtrack of the cicadas.

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