remote

The village of Inverie in Scotland is thought to be the UK’s most remote village and it’s home to the most remote pub too a place that visitors never seem to tire of visiting

During the Covid lockdown, residents of Inverie faced greater challenges than most communities across Britain.

The small village of roughly 120 people depends entirely on its ferry service for everything from food and post to medicine and freight. When Western Isles Cruises cannot run the ferry to Inverie – which happens frequently due to poor weather conditions – nothing can enter or leave the settlement.

That’s because Inverie in Scotland has no road access whatsoever, only a gruelling two- to three-day trek over the mountains. The ferry service is therefore the villagers’ sole lifeline to essential supplies.

During the coronavirus pandemic, the usual 28 weekly sailings were slashed to just three – operating only on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.

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“The pier has drop-off bins and a container plus many local residents would be keenly waiting the arrival of their supplies. In normal times they would create a human chain to help unload the boat up the steps and onto the pier but during Covid they couldn’t,” a blog on the ferry service’s website reads, reports the Express.

“So the skipper and crew unloaded the boat whilst the locals looked on at a distance. We didn’t need Joe Wicks as the workout was intense, especially at low tide! The crew were never so slim.”

The main village on the Knoydart Peninsula, Inverie sits on the northern shore of Loch Nevis. Whilst numerous villages in that region are isolated, Inverie is world-record-breakingly so.

It holds its own Guinness World Record for the Most Remote Village in the UK to prove it. It earned this distinction because there are no roads leading to it – you can only reach it by boat from Mallaig, or by tackling an arduous 16-mile trek through extremely isolated countryside.

Whilst getting there presents a challenge, the journey proves worthwhile for two compelling reasons: the stunning scenery and the local boozer.

The John Muir Trust, who own the land, are currently rewilding sections of Knoydart to restore its natural state.

“Centuries of burning and over-grazing by sheep and deer have damaged the habitat here. Over the last 30 years, we’ve planted native tree species and controlled deer numbers to improve biodiversity. Now we’re seeing the natural regeneration of birch, oak, hazel, rowan, Scots pine and other tree species,” the Trust’s website reads.

“As the trees have regenerated on Knoydart, native wildlife has returned. This includes pine marten, roe deer, bats and many types of woodland birds. There are also otters, foxes, water voles, buzzards and different types of eagle. Knoydart is also notable for a wide range of species in its wet heaths, grasslands and snow beds. We expect to see more biodiversity as the woodland continues to expand.”

Inverie village comprises little more than the renowned Old Forge – which bills itself as “the Remotest Pub in Mainland Britain”. “We are proud to be one of a few community-owned pubs in Scotland. Whisky, real ale, traditional music and amazing service are our passions,” the Forge claims online.

There are very few with a bad word to say about the pub, which stands as a welcoming beacon of warmth, open almost every day of the year, regardless of the weather.

“Heaven on earth. Had an amazing meal for my hubby’s 67th birthday recently. Such a friendly atmosphere and the food was excellent too – fish and chips for me, macaroni cheese for hubby. Freshly cooked and delicious! This visit was sublime in every way, the scenery wasn’t bad either,” one satisfied customer wrote on Tripadvisor.

Another added: “No visit to Inverie is complete without a visit to The Old Forge. What the community have done to the place since the buyout is outstanding, it is a credit to all who have worked so hard to revive this fantastic place to its former glory. Always a pleasure to visit and partake in wonderful food and drink, all served by a very enthusiastic group of folk. Hope to be back one day. Keep up the good work.”

The Knoydart Snug is operated by the pub and has a handful of beds available to those who get stranded in Inverie. With a lively pub and stunning scenery on your doorstep, you may find yourself hoping that the weather turns.

The simplest route to Inverie involves a scenic train ride to Mallaig, followed by a short ferry trip. The direct Glasgow to Mallaig train journey on the West Highland Line, run by ScotRail, is a treat in itself with stunning Scottish views.

The journey spans roughly 160 km and takes about 5 hours and 15 minutes, with multiple services operating each day.

A small coastal town in the north of the UK boasts a unique claim to fame – it’s home to the world’s shortest street. Now the street and town have been cut off by the collapse of Eastern Airways

Commercial flights to one of the most remote airports in the country have been halted, effectively stranding the aviation hub.

UK domestic carrier Eastern Airways has suspended operations and cancelled all of its flights, delivering a major blow to the charming Scottish seaside town of Wick, which relied heavily on the airline for connectivity.

The UK Civil Aviation Authority said customers of the airline, which operated regional routes from airports across the UK, are being urged not to travel to the airport, as flights will no longer be operating.

According to its website, destinations served by Eastern Airways included Aberdeen, Humberside, London Gatwick, Newquay, Teesside International and Wick. All of those airports continue to be served by other airlines—except Wick John O’Groats, which sits at the northernmost tip of mainland UK.

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The only other carrier listed on FlightRadar as serving Wick is Gama Aviation, a specialist business aviation company. Wick Airport declined to tell the Mirror whether any other airlines were currently operating there.

That likely means the remote airport—and the town beside it—are effectively cut off by air, a significant setback given the 15-hour train journey required to reach London from Wick, and the eight-hour trip to Glasgow.

It’s also a loss for visitors to the small town, a charming coastal spot brimming with dramatic scenery and maritime heritage.

Nestled in Caithness, Wick is an ancient Viking stronghold. Once Europe’s busiest herring harbour, this diminutive coastal community now attracts visitors from around the globe for its striking fortress ruins, rugged coastline, and abundant wildlife.

“Around three miles north of Wick, the dramatic 15th- to 17th-century ruins of Sinclair and Girnigoe castles rise steeply from a needle-thin promontory,” proclaims VisitScotland, the region’s official tourism organisation.

“There’s a scenic clifftop walk to the castle via Noss Head Lighthouse from the tiny fishing village of Staxigoe. Along the way, visitors can spot a wide variety of seabirds and puffins before reaching a beautiful beach at Sinclair Bay, popular for windsurfing and sand-yachting.”

Holidaymakers seeking something truly unique often visit Ebenezer Place, officially recognised as the world’s shortest street.

Measuring just 6ft 9in long (2.06m), the road is so small it holds only one address—Mackay’s Hotel’s No. 1 Bistro.

Beautifully located beside the Wick River, the restaurant serves dishes made with local produce, along with afternoon tea, cocktail masterclasses, and, naturally, whisky. In 2006, the street—maintained by Highland Council as the road authority—earned a Guinness World Record as the shortest street in the world.

“When Alexander Sinclair returned from America in 1883 after making his fortune, he built Mackay’s Hotel on the corner of Union Street and River Street,” the hotel’s website explains. “The council instructed him to name the short end of the building, as they considered it a separate street. Ebenezer Place subsequently appeared in town records from 1887.”

In an online statement, Highlands and Islands Airports Limited (HIAL), which owns Wick John O’Groats Airport, said: “HIAL was made aware via press coverage that Eastern Airways has filed for administration. We will work closely with The Highland Council, which manages the Public Service Obligation (PSO) route from Wick, previously operated by Eastern Airways. Wick John O’Groats Airport will continue to operate as normal, and passengers should contact the airline for information regarding booked flights.”

Eastern Airways customers are being urged to make alternative travel arrangements via other airlines, rail, or coach operators. On Monday morning, Eastern Airways (UK) Ltd filed a notice of intention to appoint an administrator at the Insolvency and Companies Court, part of the High Court.

Selina Chadha, consumer and markets director at the UK Civil Aviation Authority, said: “We urge passengers planning to fly with this airline not to go to the airport, as all Eastern Airways flights are cancelled. Eastern Airways customers should visit the Civil Aviation Authority’s website for the latest information.”

Eilean Sionnach Lighthouse Cottage, off the Isle of Skye

Guests at this lighthouse keeper’s cottage have not only the property but the whole 1.6-hectare (four-acre) island to themselves. Eilean Sionnach is an islet off Skye that is accessible by boat or on foot at low tide. Like the lighthouse, the cottage was built in 1857 and has four bedrooms, four bathrooms, a kitchen and a lounge with a wood burner, and incredible sea views.

As well as a patio and garden, which has a fire circle, the cottage has its own private beach. It is possible to time a lunchtime walk to the nearest pubs and restaurants over on Skye. Or, for the true castaway experience, stock up at the village shop by the pier before embarking on your island adventure.
From £650 a night (two night-minimum), sleeps eight, coolstays.com

Borradill house and cottage, Scottish Highlands

Winning tip: an away day in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides

I’d recommend visiting the Outer Hebrides island of Berneray for an experience of true remoteness. Here you can walk across the rare grassland called the machair to the white, three-mile long West Beach, which looks out into the North Atlantic, and marvel at the immense space and colour of the sea. We stayed at a Gatliff Hebridean hostel, which consists of two converted crofts where for about £20 a night for a bunk you will be staying in probably one of the most peaceful locations in the world. Berneray is between North Uist and Harris.
Nik Fernee

Ancient and modern digs in the Highlands

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Dean

Greek island without the crowds

Astypalaia has the same pretty, white-washed houses you see on famous Greek islands, but it’s far less busy. The main town, Chora, is beautiful, with buildings leading up a hill to an old castle. We rented a small apartment and spent our days on quiet pebble beaches that we had almost to ourselves. It’s a genuinely peaceful place where you can properly switch off from the noise of modern life. This Dodecanese island is the focus of a scheme for emission-free transport, with generous grants to replace petrol and diesel vehicles with electric ones.
Roy

Under the stars of Carmarthenshire

We woke to birdsong and the sounds of a rushing brook and ate breakfast while the morning light streamed through the windows of Y Caban, near the village of Login in Carmarthenshire. Hearing its story of being created from local forests was as fascinating as the walk through the tall woods that surround it. We watched red kites soar over the valley before stargazing under a sky free from light pollution. Such tranquility and connection with nature is hard to find in the UK these days, but the benefits are palpable – we left rested and refreshed, more so than any recent holiday.
Hannah

Magical Irish castle

We stayed at the Annes Grove Miniature Castle in Castletownroche, County Cork, near to the ruined Augustinian Bridgetown Priory and Blackwater Castle, in what felt like the middle of nowhere. It was magical. The Irish Landmark Trust has renovated it for people to stay in, complete with a wood-burning stove and comfy gothic bed. I found there to be nothing like having a whiskey by the fire surrounded by beautiful nature – and being able to say you spent a weekend in a castle, how cool is that!
Lotte

Delta ‘on the edge of the world’, Romania

The Danube Delta in Romania feels like the edge of the world at the eastern frontier of the EU. Accessible by boat from the port of Tulcea, it is one of Europe’s largest and most vital wetland ecosystems and is full of wildlife. We stayed at the Delta Boutique & Carmen Silva Resort in Crișan, an old working fishing village where tranquil evenings are broken only by the lively chorus of frogs. Guided boat safaris, including to see pelicans, can be arranged through the hotel.
Josh

‘Shrouded in fog and empty space’ in the Faroe Islands

Some years ago, having read Girl, Interrupted author Susanna Kaysen’s bleakly beautiful account of an anthropologist’s stay in the Faroe Islands (Far Afield), I took myself to what is now the Hotel Djurhuus on the edge of the capital, Tórshavn, to experience the archipelago for myself. Expertly guided by Tora tours, I endured a dreadful but thankfully short sea crossing to Mykines to see puffins, visited the beautiful villages of Saksun (population: eight) and Gjógv (a metropolis of 31 inhabitants) and explored Tinganes, location of the islands’ parliament. It was the most wonderful, wild and remote August week, shrouded in fog and empty space.
Abigail

Off-grid in Northumberland

Last October we had a wonderful week in the most remote part of Northumberland – the Upper Coquet valley. Our stay was an off-grid, simple bunk barn called Nightfold at the top of the valley. We spent a week living like woodland creatures in autumn – eating heartily, keeping ourselves warm (thanks to the wood-burning stove) and sleeping. In the daytime, we did long walks where we didn’t see a single other person – only sheep, deer, birds and squirrels. At night there were endless stars, the Milky Way and reading by candlelight. Bliss.
Ben

Free camping in Portugal’s mountains

The sleepy villages of continental Portugal’s highest mountain range, the Serra da Estrela, are a world away from the coastal honeypots of Lisbon and Porto. In Vila Cova à Coelheira there is a free campsite on the banks of the Alva river, reached via an old Roman bridge that you can swim under (or jump in from if you’re feeling brave). Even better, there is a bar at the river beach that serves excellent pica-pau – pork braised in wine, with onions and pickles. During my stay there I never encountered more than one or two others camping.
David

Croatia’s Mljet island is not for the jet set

Away from Dubrovnik’s cruise-ship crowds, Mljet island feels like another world: pine forests dipping into turquoise bays, an ancient monastery on a tiny islet in the middle of a saltwater lake, and hardly a sound beyond cicadas and the wind. I stayed in a simple family-run cottage just outside the national park gates, where evenings meant grilled fish on the terrace and nights under skies thick with stars. Days were spent kayaking across mirror-still water and walking through pine-scented trails where I rarely met another soul. It felt like stepping into a slower rhythm of life, a corner of Europe the 21st century has politely passed by.
Mark Adamson