quickly

I visited Italy’s ‘prettiest town’ and very quickly had one major complaint

Tropea in the Calabria region of Italy has recently been voted the prettiest village in the whole country

Few places can be beaten for splendour than the duomo in Florence, and turning a corner to be greeted by the Colosseum in Rome would take anyone’s breath away.

Travel to Italy and you’re never far from a spectacular sight – be that the shores of Lake Garda, which as a dyed in the wool Cumbrian even I have to admit looks like the Lake District on steroids, to the canals, gondolas and majestic cathedral of Venice, and Verona’s amphitheatre and Juliette’s balcony to the high end shops of Milan, there really is something for everyone.

But venture a little of the beaten track, and escape the hordes of tourists battling for an inch of beach in the Amalfi coast, to travel south to the untapped and undiscovered region known as Calabria and you’ll step into the ‘real Italy’ – and back in time.

One of the crown jewels of this region, which is Italy’s poorest, is the stunning medieval town of Tropea, where I was lucky enough to spend a blissful week. And it’s not just me who’s a fan, the town was recently voted the prettiest in Italy, which I think we can all agree means it was up against some stiff competition.

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Nestled into the cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, this ancient town tumbles down the rock face and into the turquoise blue of the ocean.

Surrounded by stunning golden beaches with plenty of room to feel like you have them to yourself, this town has a magical dream-like quality.

Tropea has survived it all – invasions, earthquakes and bombings – to stand proud on the clifftops. Its array of noble palaces and stunning churches, all contained within the winding, cobbled streets of the old town.

I was lucky enough to spend a week in Calabria with Tropea as my base. A glorious sunny October afternoon spent strolling through its streets, with secret, hidden alleys at every turn, and sampling the delicious food from the region, including the sweet, red onions and spicy ndjua, was an utter delight.

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Stopping for one of the most delicious ice-creams I’ve ever eaten while overlooking the awe-inspiring Tyrrhenian from one of the many viewing points in this quaint little town quite simply took my breath away. Meanwhile, stopping for a crisp, white wine in an ancient tavern half way up the cliff face on my way back from the beach was the perfect way to while away a few hours.

If it’s history you’re after, then Tropea has it in bucketloads – from the cathedral to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dell’Isola, the church on the rock, gazing out into the wide expanse of azure sea.

From the incredible viewing points, you have an amazing view of Stomboli, the still erupting volcano which lights up the night sky every evening off this part of the coast of Italy.

I have but one complaint about this undiscovered, Italian hidden gem – and that’s that I don’t live there and only got to spend a week wandering its beautiful streets.

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SNP are the latest proof that things change quickly in politics

Chris MasonPolitical editor in Aberdeen

PA Media John Swinney, standing behind a podium labelled Independence and gesturing with his left hand, delivers his keynote speech at the SNP annual conference in AberdeenPA Media

John Swinney was the third SNP leader in a little over a year

A year or so ago, the Scottish National Party looked to be in deep trouble.

They had been comprehensively thrashed in the general election, falling from 48 MPs to just nine.

They had managed to have three leaders in a little over a year: Nicola Sturgeon, Humza Yousaf and then John Swinney.

It was a rate of attrition that would make even the Conservative Party of recent years blush.

There had also been a high-profile and long-running police investigation into the SNP’s finances, involving Sturgeon, who was told earlier this year she would face no action.

Plus there were bitter rows over gender identity.

And the SNP has been in devolved government in Scotland since before you could buy an iPhone – since May 2007.

Electoral gravity looked to be catching up with them, and catching up big time – just ahead of the crucial elections to the Scottish Parliament next May.

PA Media Humza Yousaf, left, with a yellow folder, John Swinney in the middle with a suit and pink tie, and Nicola Sturgeon with a green blousePA Media

John Swinney, with Humza Yousaf and Nicola Sturgeon

But in case you needed yet another reminder that our domestic politics remains a smorgasbord of competitiveness and unpredictability, the SNP is the latest case study.

Swinney has brought stability to a party that indulged in the opposite for a while.

And support has splintered among its rivals – Labour, Reform and others.

Here is how the pollsters More in Common put it:

“Since last year’s general election, Labour’s support has more than halved in Scotland while the SNP has marginally improved its standing. While not seeing as significant a rise as in England, Reform has emerged as the potential second-place party after the SNP in Scotland, suppressing the Conservatives’ vote share as well as eating into Labour’s.”

Its analysis continues:

“Despite losing 11 points in the constituency vote, this result would put the SNP just shy of a majority in Holyrood, mostly due to fragmentation in the other parties.”

Remember, this is a snapshot, not a prediction. But it is fascinating nonetheless.

The mood among SNP party members and senior figures at the conference was chipper and upbeat.

The party feels competitive again and not only hopeful of victory next year, but even talking of that outright majority.

Just winning again, with or without a majority, would be an extraordinary achievement.

The party, if it does so, would he heading into its third consecutive decade in devolved power.

A majority is a big ask, with an electoral system that makes securing one tricky.

But it matters because the SNP’s latest attempt to make an argument for another independence referendum rests on securing a majority.

The party’s logic goes like this: the last time they persuaded the government at Westminster to grant one, they had won a majority at Holyrood a few years before.

That majority was won by Alex Salmond in 2011. The referendum followed in 2014.

So, goes the current First Minister’s logic, they need a majority again so they can point at that precedent from a decade and a half ago.

PA Media Alex Salmond gives a thumbs upPA Media

Swinney is hoping to emulate the electoral success of Alex Salmond in 2011

The stumbling block is the UK government has made it clear, including in its manifesto, that it is opposed to another referendum.

Privately, senior SNP folk ponder that if they do win a majority, and Labour lose power in the Senedd in Wales and do badly in local elections in many parts of England, Sir Keir Starmer might be out of Downing Street.

There are a lot of ifs there and who knows.

But even if Sir Keir was a goner, that manifesto would still be something Labour could point to.

And the SNP would ask, again, just how voluntary the union of the United Kingdom really is if there is no achievable mechanism for another referendum.

The SNP’s critics point to what they see as a dismal domestic record, on the NHS, housing and the number of deaths among drug addicts, for instance.

The party counters with its own riff on what it sees as its greatest hits – they had one for every stair between the ground and first floor of the conference centre.

Free university tuition and free prescriptions are among them.

But there is something else going on too.

There is a near 50/50 split on the constitutional question in Scotland – independence or not.

This is a nation split down the middle.

This gives the SNP a deep well of potential support.

It offers the opportunity to continue to defy what in other circumstances would likely be the undeniable gravity of longevity in office – plunging to defeat.

Let’s see.

In local politics, politics in the nations and at the UK level, conventions continue to be upended in multiple directions.

It is also true – and the SNP and its rivals know it – things can change quickly too.

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