Greek

The riverside was heaving. Families spilled from cafes. A marching band trooped on to the bridge, their tasselled metal helmets dazzling in the sun. Priests with bushy beards delivered ageless chants from beneath their cylindrical kalimavkion hats. Men let off shotguns, terrifying the air. Easter Monday in Lefkimmi.

We hadn’t planned this. Simply right place, right time. The capital of southern Corfu, Lefkimmi is a working town, untroubled by tourism. There are Venetian-style houses – variously neat, tatty and decrepit – but no “attractions” to speak of. Just Corfiots doing Corfiot things: chewing the fat in their finest for this religious celebration – Greek Orthodox Easter, which falls on 12 April in 2026 – plus zipping about on scooters, drinking coffee, buying baklava and ice-creams.

“Right place, right time” was my hope for this trip to over-loved Corfu, an island of about 100,000 that, in 2025, was visited by approaching 4 million people. I was returning with fond memories. My first ever foreign holiday was here, in 1986. That was the first time I saw an olive tree, realised water could be that blue, and heard such a cacophony of cicadas it seemed the bushes were electrically charged.

That was 40 years ago. Corfu – the green queen of the Ionian Sea, Gerald Durrell’s “garden of the gods” – was already popular. In the intervening decades, development has been rampant and infrastructure, from roads to water supply, struggles to cope with the summer influx. But how about visiting off-season and off-piste? Winter can be tricky, with many places shut, so my husband and I had chosen to come in spring, exploring largely on foot, via the Corfu trail.

The sun was warm, the land now awake from hibernation as we set out on the 110-mile (180km) route that runs the length of the island, from Kavos to Agios Spyridon. Wriggling along the more rugged, less developed west coast, with deviations into the central hills and wide Ropa valley, it then traverses the mountainous north, always seeking the way less trodden. You could travel by (limited) buses or hire car, but doing some walking is the best way to happen upon Corfu’s offbeat bits.

We covered between 8 and 20 miles a day, though there’s no need to do all that – most walk it much more slowly. But, with our luggage being transported ahead each night to an array of simple pensions, family tavernas and beach hotels, our shoulders were light, so we were keen to roam as much as we could, following the yellow and black signs, arrows daubed on rocks and the GPS files on our phones – the route was largely well marked.

Every day, there were wonders to discover: wizened Mitéra, a 1,500-year-old olive tree near Prasoudi beach; a profusion of wildflowers, in all hues – rosy garlic, hot-purple rock roses, punchy yellow sage; a magical ancient footway between Makrata and Ano Garouna that had fallen out of use until the Corfu trail was blazed 25 years ago. The path traversed a cypress-pierced hillside before plunging into dark, forgotten olive groves that concealed what looked like the remains of a lost city, but was in fact natural rock cloaked in moss.

A few hours after these “ruins”, we arrived in Sinarades and found ourselves at the bottom of a flight of stone steps leading into the Folklore Museum. It couldn’t be open, could it? But yes, Makis beckoned us into this 19th-century farmhouse (entrance a modest €3), empty of visitors but full of the stuff of Corfiot village life: fine costumes, farming paraphernalia, fig cutters, cobblers’ tools.

It was fascinating, getting these glimpses of old Corfu, invariably inland. In the northern mountain village of Sokraki, after the only downpour to spoil our sunny skies, we drank ginger beer at Emily’s cafe, still made the traditional way, using only water, lemon juice, sugar and ginger. Then we wove our way down the narrow streets to the Lithari Olive Oil Museum, where an old family press has been restored.

The following day, we visited Old Perithia, a 14th-century village tucked beneath Mount Pantokrator, the island’s highest point. Like many similar outposts, Perithia was abandoned in the 1960s; unlike many, it has been revived, and is now a lively, living cluster of homes, tavernas, honey shops and a characterful B&B. It was a hot day, so we flopped on to the shady terrace of O Foros cafe and lingered over fresh salad, homemade pie and tsigareli (garlicky wild greens), before descending to the coast via a long-lost path, only rediscovered during the Corfu trail’s creation.

Despite being ravishingly clear and a respectable 16C (60F), there were very few swimmers in the sea. Such was the case at Myrtiotissa, halfway up the west coast – the spot where Odysseus allegedly washed ashore, and widely known as a nudist beach. A steep, skinny track leads to this cliff-backed sliver of sand, a real Instagrammer snarl-up in summer. But when we walked down, road and beach were deserted enough for us to throw off our inhibitions and clothes, and frisk Nereid-like in the waves.

If there’s one stretch of Corfu coast not to miss it’s Erimitis, the “hermit” peninsula at the island’s north-east. There used to be a naval observation post here, keeping an eye on Albania, about 2 miles away. As such, Erimitis escaped tourist development, leaving it the last stand of pristine Corfiot nature: no villas, no olives, just a scrub of oaks, myrtles and strawberry trees, brackish lagoons, butterflies and birds, herbs and wild orchids, plus rare monk seals and seagrass offshore.

But it’s under threat. In 2012, the government sold the rights to develop a portion of Erimitis to foreign investors. Organisations such as Save Erimitis and the Ionian Environment Foundation are fighting to conserve it.

Leaving the Corfu trail for the day, we picked up a footpath linking upmarket Agios Stefanos to the fishing harbour of Kassiopi, via Erimitis’s edges, a walk of about 5.5 miles. Immediately, there was a different feel here; it was a place without human touch, where the water seemed even clearer. We walked through fairytale tunnels of trees and detoured down a trail that ended at a bank, where a rope dangled down to a forest-backed beach. With no one about, it seemed silly to bother putting on swimmers, so we skinny-dipped again, now accustomed to the temperature, and warmed by the smugness of being here, now, alone. Right time, right place.

The trip was provided by Walks Worldwide, whose 15-day, self-guided Corfu Trail costs from £1,129 (shorter itineraries available), including the whole route plus nights in Kalami, near Erimitis; thecorfutrail.com

YOU can explore a Santorini-like island with whitewashed villages for a fraction of the price of the real deal.

Folegandros is an island in the Cyclades known for both pretty beaches and cheaper hotels than its sister island.

Unlike its neighbours Mykonos and Santorini, Folegandros doesn’t have an airport or huge hotels – the island didn’t even have electricity until 1974.

It’s been dubbed an ‘under-the-radar Greek island’ seeing much fewer visitors.

Santorini gets around 3.4million visitors each year, meanwhile Folegandros gets 50,000.

There’s still lots to see and visitors will find most of the island’s life in the main town of Chora of which is perched on a cliff around 200 metres high.

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It’s where most of the shops, restaurants, cafes and tavernas are found.

Make sure to try Matsata, which is a handmade fresh pasta, which looks similar to tagliatelle, that was founded on Folegandros.

Usually it’s served with cooked meats like rooster, rabbit, or goat in a rich tomato sauce and topped with grated cheese.

For those who want the best island view, take the steep, winding path up to the Church of Panagia.

CNN listed Chora in their top seven most beautiful villages in Europe, writing: “Santorini’s streets sag with admirers.

“But on Folegandros, a nearby island, you’ll find similar architecture—streets paved in slate, whitewashed buildings decorated with colourful flowers, the occasional Greek Orthodox church with a bright blue dome—without the crowds.”

Being a Greek island in the Aegean Sea, Folegandros has plenty of beautiful beaches and has been praised for its “emerald-blue” waters.

Some of the island’s top ones include Katergo Beach which has white sands and blue waters.

Visitors have gone as far as to say it’s the “prettiest beach on Folegandros.”

Another is Livadaki Beach which most visitors access by boat rather than foot.

Its remote location means it is less busy than other beaches on the island and it’s said to be an ideal spot for snorkelling.

Agios Nikolaos Beach is family-friendly with a small bar and taverna on the shoreline.

Depending on the season, the average price of a hotel in Santorini varies but typically ranges from £143–£251 per night – but luxury stays can be as high as £1,000.

While Folegandros does have some luxe stays, there are some more affordable stays too.

The Beachfront Cycladic House can be booked from £74 per night on Booking.com.

The holiday home has a bedroom, a bathroom, a living room, a balcony and it’s just minutes’ walk away from multiple beaches.

Rooms at the Kallisti Hotel which is built in the style of a small village can be booked from £82 per night.

It has a swimming pool, bar, breakfast room and rooms with balconies with beautiful island views.

The easiest way for Brits to get to Folegandros is by a ferry from Athens which takes around four hours.

Brits can also fly from the UK to Athens in under four hours from as little as £22.

For more beautiful Greek islands, here are four better value islands where locals go on holiday with Santorini-like houses and secluded beaches.

And here are the alternative Greek islands that could save you £1,000 – including two spots everyone thinks are expensive.

Spotters in Greece have caught an especially good look at what very much appears to be a stealthy, long-range, high-altitude (HALE) intelligence, surveillance, and reconnaissance drone commonly referred to as the RQ-180, or an evolution of that design.

Pictures of the dark-colored, flying-wing type aircraft landing at Larissa National Airport, also known as Larissa Air Base, situated in the Greek city of the same name, were published earlier today by local news outlet onlarissa.gr.

“Those who were in the area near the 110th Fighter Wing [technically the 110th Combat Wing] in Larissa at the end of last week were left speechless when they saw an impressive plane in the sky, completely different in shape and appearance from everything we see daily in politics and the military air force,” according to a machine translation of onlarissa.gr’s piece, which misidentifies the aircraft as a B-2 bomber. “According to more recent information from military sources, this [aircraft] … reportedly parked at the Larissa military airport due to a breakdown and will remain there until it is repaired.”

TWZ cannot immediately confirm any of these latter details, but we have reached out to U.S. Air Forces in Europe (USAFE) and the Pentagon for more information.

What is clear is that this is not a B-2, which has a very distinctive saw-tooth trailing edge that is not visible here, among other features. In fact, the overall planform is highly reminiscent of the new B-21 Raider stealth bomber from Northrop Grumman, as well as past sightings of aircraft believed to be RQ-180s or progenitors of that design. The RQ-180 is widely understood to be a Northrop Grumman product, as well, and very likely played a significant role in risk reduction efforts as part of the development of the B-21, as we have posited for years.

There are also some very rough similarities to sightings of what is believed to be an Israeli drone called the RA-01, but with some distinct differences. The RA-01 shares a similar planform, but is a more svelte design that would be significantly smaller than what we are seeing here. Furthermore, it makes very little sense that an Israeli drone would be flying that far west for any reason. The American aircraft in question is likely quite large, sitting below the size of a B-21, but maybe by 25 percent, as a guess. It would be designed for extremely long-endurance, high altitude strategic reconnaissance missions.

B-21 Takeoff and Landing

The pictures from Larissa also offer a good look at the aircraft’s landing gear, which is very widely positioned. A gear configuration of that kind allows for the maximization of volume in between and underscores the sheer wingspan of the aircraft.

Whether the aircraft in question has been operating from Larissa, or simply diverted there due to an issue, is unknown. It is possible that it has been forward-deployed to the base, but still had to return to base unexpectedly, leading to it being spotted during the day rather than coming in discreetly at night.

Larissa is a Hellenic Air Force base, home to the 110th Combat Wing, which operates Block 52+ F-16C/D Viper fighters, as well as various types of drones. Since the late 2010s, the U.S. Air Force has also publicly used the base for MQ-9 Reaper drone operations over areas of Europe and Africa. That, in turn, has led to upgrades to Larissa’s infrastructure, especially along the south side of the base, where there are now hangars that could accommodate larger flying wing aircraft and that do not appear to be used to house MQ-9s.

By what we can surmise about the RQ-180 program, aircraft that are part of its lineage have likely been flying for roughly over a decade and a half. Yet in recent years, just as this platform was thought to be coming online in a grander operational sense, we have not seen the infrastructure that would be indicative of that. It’s even possible its scale has been reduced as the Pentagon looks to push its surveillance capabilities to space, and especially some of the kinds an ‘RQ-180’ could do.

Still, given that this aircraft is now likely a component of the Long Range Strike (LRS) family of systems, and will work in concert with and even possibly have some commonality with the B-21, it could share that same infrastructure and come online fully alongside the Raider in the next couple of years. That is if the program is still intended to be scaled-up as opposed to diverting funds to on-orbit surveillance capabilities.

Regardless, the aircraft has been spotted flying over secretive locales in America’s Southwest for many years now, with sightings over Area 51, and reports of it flying out of Palmdale and Edwards Air Force Base. A conflict with Iran would be a relevant fit for what it was designed to do, so it should be of no surprise that it is flying missions over the country, even if it still remains in something of a late developmental state.

In all of the years of the RQ-180’s rumored existence, multiple stealthy HALE drone designs have emerged in China, at least undergoing testing, and these are just the ones we know about.

We will have more analysis on all this in the near future.

Already, if nothing else, there are very strong signs that we’ve now gotten our best look ever at the drone referred to as the RQ-180 or a directly related design.

Contact the author: joe@twz.com

WHEN it comes to travelling to Greece there are loads of islands to choose from – but now the cheapest spots have been revealed, and you might be surprised.

Greece is a much-loved holiday destination for Brits, and now the islands where you could save over £1,000 have been revealed.

According to new data by TravelSupermarket, Kefalonia – the largest Ionian island – is the cheapest Greek destination.

Looking at average prices for a seven-night holiday between September 16, 2025 and March 15 2026, TravelSupermarket found that Kefalonia cost an average of £596 per person.

Caroline McGuire, Head of Travel (Digital), who has visited the island, said: “Looking out at Myrtos Beach, which is regularly named one of Greece’s top five, it felt like we were being let in on a great secret.

“The bright white shoreline and astonishingly clear aquamarine waters shone back at us, almost completely empty.

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“It was so peaceful, in fact, that a digital nomad had set up his van office in the parking lot overlooking the sea.”

In second place is Lefkada, costing around £606 per person.

Instead of heading to Corfu, Lefkada (which is just along the coast) offers fewer crowds.

Also, in comparison to a seven-night break in Corfu, you could save £216 per person, or £864 if travelling as a family of four.

The island of Lefkada is often dubbed the ‘Caribbean of Greece’ thanks to its exotic, Caribbean-like natural landscape.

Across the island, you will find sprawling beaches including Porto Katsiki.

And in the island’s main town, there are lots of alleys to explore, and a long promenade with restaurants and bars littered along it.

In the town, look at the buildings too, as many are in a Venetian architectural style.

Surprisingly, Santorini ranked third most affordable, costing around £637 per person.

The stunning island is one of the most popular destinations in Europe attracting honeymooners and A-listers such as Angelina Jolie and Beyonce.

And as a result, many think visiting the island comes with a premium price tag.

But a trip to the white-and-blue island doesn’t need to break the bank.

Hotels can cost from just £35 a night and the island has a good bus network, which costs less than £2 a ticket.

For less busy spots, check out Megalochori, Pygros or Emborio – they all feature cobbled roads, cosy tavernas and authentic Greek food.

Mykonos followed in fourth, costing around £670 per person.

Mykonos is often thought to be one of Greece‘s most glamorous and expensive places to visit.

But it is actually cheaper than heading to Crete.

If you swapped Crete for Mykonos, you could save around £98 per person.

Often associated with parties, Mykonos is a great destination to head to if you enjoy nightlife.

Beaches including Paradise and Super Paradise have bars with live music and a number of clubs attract world-renowned DJs.

But Mykonos doesn’t just have great nightlife; make sure to check out the row of 16th-century windmills on the hill above the town.

Rhodes then rounded out the top five, costing around £689 per person.

Instead of heading to Kos, head to Rhodes.

Both destinations are Dodecanese staples, with lots of sunny weather and stunning beaches.

Yet, if you head to Rhodes over Kos you could save a massive £254 per person – or £1,016 for a family of four.

The island is well-known for its 3,000-year-old history with the UNESCO-listed medieval Old Town as well as amazing beaches including Lindos Beach and Faliraki Beach.

Chris Webber, Head of Holidays and Deals at TravelSupermarket, said: “Greek islands are not all created equal when it comes to price — but the expensive ones might not be the islands you’d expect.

“Mykonos costs less to book than Crete. Rhodes is hundreds of pounds cheaper than Kos.

“If you’re prepared to swap one island for another, the savings can be huge.”

For more ideas on where to travel in Greece, there is one smaller island that has 70 beaches.

Plus, one Greece expert shares four better value islands where locals go on holiday.

Greek divers surface around me shouting about “megalo” groupers. I’m surrounded by enormous grins above the water and big fish below. A happy place to be. A bunch of us, divers and snorkellers, are hanging around Agios Petros reef off the island of Alonissos, and there’s a reason the groupers are big here. The National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades, established in 1992, is Greece’s largest working marine protected area (MPA) – two bigger MPAs have just been created, but are not yet operational. The protective measures appear to be working, judging by the size, abundance and diversity of marine life – glassy waters teeming with colourful fish and precious shells make swimming here an absolute dream.

For those who like to go deeper, Alonissos is the site of Greece’s first underwater archaeological park and museum – the impressive Peristera wreck, with its giant cargo of amphorae preserved from the 5th century BC. This one is for certified divers descending with accredited local dive centres. I’m with one of those schools, Ikion Diving, but today we’re doing something more accessible. We’re in the village of Steni Vala for the launch of a citizen science project, the Highly Protected Mediterranean Initiative (much more fun than it sounds). Ikion is partnering with the universities of Thessaloniki and the Aegean to offer free snorkelling and diving trips logging native and alien species. I’m worried about my fish ID skills, but the effervescent biologist Katerina Konsta runs a great briefing and we’re given dive slates with images to mark (imparting a childish delight at playing scientist).

DOH! Homer – no, not the Simpsons character, I mean the ancient Greek poet – must have got it wrong when he penned his classic Odyssey saga some 3,000 years ago.

For legend has it that the tiny Dodecanese island of Lipsi is his fabled Ogygia, where a saucy siren called Kalypso kept Trojan war hero Odysseus a prisoner for seven years.

Now, according to Homer, Odysseus was desperate to escape from Ogygia and flee home to his wife Penelope in Ithaca, on the other side of Greece.

But after my week-long stay in Lipsi I can’t imagine anyone wanting to leave this lovely, laid-back island, lapped by the clear blue water of the Aegean Sea.

Especially with the cooling Meltemi breeze ensuring that, although the temperature can hover in the 30s in summer, it never feels oppressively hot.

Certainly Sally Vavoulas, from Tenterden, Kent, has not wished to leave.

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She arrived in Lipsi in 2001, fell under its spell ­— and is still there.

These days she helps run the island’s excellent winery with husband Manolis. But more of that later.

Lipsi is not one island but an archipelago.

Only three of its 24 isles are occupied — and one has just two residents — while most of the 800-strong population are clustered in a sprawling village on the main isle.

Ferries chug into the little harbour every day from Kos and Samos, a two-hour cruise away — and twice a week from Athens, a longer nine-hour voyage.

Berthed alongside them are millionaires’ luxury superyachts, which have sailed from faraway spots such as the Caribbean and the United States.

And tied up farther down the jetty are the locals’ tiny but colourful fishing smacks.

Fortunately, though, those huge skyscraper-like cruise ships are banned from Lipsi.

Lining the quay are a cluster of excellent tavernas — such as Pefko, where owner Nikos looks annoyed when I ask which is the best dish on that night’s menu.

“None is best,” he replies sternly, before breaking into a beaming smile and adding: “Everything’s superb.” Hmm, as I soon discover, Nikos isn’t wrong!

Just down the road there’s Kalypso, a restaurant owned by the brother of village mayor Fotis Mangos and named after the aforementioned siren.

Well, if she dished up a delicious sea bass like the one I tucked into, then no wonder Odysseus stayed for seven years.

Fotis, I have been warned, has a habit of suddenly breaking into song.

He doesn’t after joining me for dinner, but plays a YouTube video of him duetting with a Greek rapper on a little ditty called “Come With Me To Lipsi”.

Former PE teacher Fotis is justly proud of his “hidden gem” of an island, and would love to see more British holidaymakers venturing there.
September, he says, is ideal as the kids are back at school yet the sun is still hot and the sea remains comfortably warm.

Not too many tourists, though, because Fotis doesn’t want to turn the place into another overcrowded Santorini or Kos.

Probably unlikely, because there are no discos or nightclubs blaring out raucous music.

Nor will you find any sunbeds, parasols or pedalos on the tiny beaches scattered around its coves.

A couple do boast tavernas where you can sip a cold beer or the local aniseed-based ouzo over lunch. But most are virtually deserted and often you have them to yourself.

Two other restaurants in the village worth visiting are Manolis Tastes, whose chef was once voted Best in the Mediterranean, and Plateia, where Despina makes ice cream that is to die for.

One morning I take a 50-minute ramble along winding dirt tracks, following colourful hand-painted signs through the hills to Monodendri — which means “One tree”. It’s supposed to be a nudist beach, although none of the three sun-worshippers stretched out on towels are baring all when I arrive. And I don’t, either.

But it’s an idyllic, peaceful spot where you hear just the gentle waves.
Grand feast

I’ve hired a little runabout car from George’s Rentals but rarely use it. Lipsi is only some 16 square kilometres and you can walk to most places.

One day, hiking past lemon and fig trees, grapevines and donkeys, I bump into Dimitri, the island’s cheesemaker.

He doesn’t speak much English and only makes goat cheese — not surprising as there are twice as many goats as people on the island — but he offers me some. It’s delicious, at 13 euros a kilo.

The island is dotted with white, blue-domed churches, most just tiny family chapels with barely room to swing a cat (of which there are many on Lipsi).

One local tells me there are 400 churches, another reckons about 150.

So I ask the island’s priest as he sits sipping coffee outside a taverna. He reckons 57. And as from time to time Fr Georgios is called out to preach in all of them, he should know.

The biggest is Panagia Charou, or the Virgin Mary of Death Church, where a revered but rather strange icon shows her clutching a crucified Christ on the cross.

Every year on August 23, it seems that a bunch of withered lilies left there by a schoolgirl in 1943 miraculously bloom back to life.

The occasion is marked by a grand feast “filled with dancing and singing, eating and drinking, drawing believers from all corners”.

Out on another walk, I meet Nikiforos, who makes the island’s honey. He doesn’t speak English but happily shows me round his apiary.

Much of the honey is infused with the taste of thyme, which grows all over Lipsi. But, sadly, time isn’t on my side, and the holiday is almost over.

I manage to squeeze in a visit to Sally’s Lipsi Winery, where I taste four of their locally produced tipples.

One, a sweet red wine called Aposperitis, was served by the Greek President to Charles and Camilla during a state banquet in Athens a few years ago.

Sally wants to know which I prefer. So I umm and aah, before suggesting perhaps I should try a second glass of each.

Which is why, on my last night, I’m afraid I ended up rather tipsy in Lipsi.