Extraordinary

As I fell asleep in a tent to the sounds of waves crashing on the beach and no cell phone service anywhere in the vicinity, I thought, this is the respite I needed. That is, until the wee hours of the morning when I heard something rumbling.

I slowly unzipped the tent door, poked my head out and saw it: a lone bison head-butting a picnic table, lifting one end into the air with alarming ease. I quickly snuck back into my hideaway and stayed quiet, listening to the gnarled sounds of this massive animal grazing just feet away from me.

A North American Bison roams free and grazes near Little Harbor campground in Catalina

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The experience of bikepacking around Catalina Island was more than I had expected — both in its natural beauty and in its surprises. Within two days, 40-plus miles and some 5,000 feet of elevation, I was gobsmacked by the vistas, the morning light on the canyons and the solitude on the campground — aside from the abundant wildlife.

While not an “easy” trip (did I mention 5,000 feet in elevation?), the route from Catalina’s East End to Little Harbor and back to Avalon is one I’d recommend to both experienced adventurers and those newer to bikepacking, a blend of cycling and backpacking. It just requires some planning. Here’s what you should know, from getting your bike pass to planning out your stops.

Before the trip

The author’s bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

(James Murren)

Make your bicycle, camping and Catalina Express reservations

All cyclists on Catalina Island must have a Freewheeler Bike Pass, which can be obtained by purchasing a Catalina Island Conservancy membership. The cheapest $50 membership gets you one bike pass for the year, along with free admission to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden, discounts on Catalina Island campsites and other perks.

Once you have a pass, you must book a reservation to ride on Conservancy land. (You’ll get your physical bike pass when you arrive on Avalon and visit the Trailhead Visitor Center or Two Harbors Visitor Services.)

Camping reservations are also made through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. I reserved one night at Little Harbor Campground, but if I were to do it again, I would book two nights.

To get to and from Catalina, take the Catalina Express, which runs multiple trips a day from three locations in the Los Angeles area. When purchasing your ticket, you’ll pay a separate “additional article” fee to bring your bike onto the ferry.

What to pack

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

(James Murren)

Your bike. I decided to bring my Surly Pugsley fat bike simply because I love my state of mind when I’m on it. I feel like I’m going with the flow, stopping and taking pictures and having a good time. Time is not of the essence. A gravel or mountain bike will work fine on Catalina. E-bikes with pedals are also permitted and hard-shelled helmets are required for all bikers.

Bikepacking bags, a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. Just note that you’re allowed two pieces of luggage on the Catalina Express.

Clothes. Bring whatever you like to ride in and sleep in at night. I’d suggest a light puffy jacket if there’s no rain in the forecast, and pants and thermal leggings to keep the chill off. If rain is expected, pack appropriately, but also know that the Conservancy does shut down the trails and roads if the conditions seem dangerous.

Food. Sustenance for an overnighter can be covered by using the Airport in the Sky Restaurant near the Catalina Airport as a feed station. You can also fill your water containers there. Have a nice-sized meal at the café and buy what you need to eat while on your bike. I had the café pack me a sandwich for camping that evening. You can also bring food supplies with you or stop by Vons on the island to get what you need. At Little Harbor Campground, there is potable water, along with Porta Potties and cold showers.

Note: Fuel canisters/containers are not permitted on the Catalina Express. When you arrive on Avalon, Chet’s Hardware offers small canisters. If you buy one and do not end up using it, they will allow you to return it if the seal is intact. I ended up not using my stove. Overnight oats and cold instant coffee got me going.

My bikepacking journey — and what you might expect

Day one

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

(James Murren)

I woke in Avalon and pedaled my fat bike along Pebbly Beach Road to the turnoff for Wrigley Road. Climbing up Wrigley, I turned left on Renton Road, going around the gate and ascending up the remote double track. I had not seen another person for quite a while as I biked deeper into the hinterlands of the island, connecting to East End Light Road. Along the “backside” of the southern end of Catalina, it felt even more remote. East End afforded stunning views of the ocean and San Clemente Island to the south.

East End Road met up with Divide Road, as the trail map showed. The ocean sparkled in the distance, little crystals dancing on its surface. I scanned for whales but didn’t see any this time.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

(James Murren)

The start of the route at East End Road.

(James Murren)

Divide Road merged with the Airport Road at the Wrigley Reservoir, which was empty of water. There was a slight challenge here, though, in that I came to a chain-link fence with an opening for people to step through. Luckily, a touring group in an open-air truck was going by and the driver pointed out that I could walk around the fence to the right, where there was a clear path to do so.

The Airport in the Sky was my lunch destination. My wife took a shuttle bus from the Conservancy to the airport and met up with me. After lunch, I set out from the airport on the mostly six-mile descent to Little Harbor campground. El Rancho Escondido Road had a bump or two along the way, breaking up the downhill riding with a little climbing. I turned right onto Little Harbor Road and made my way to my campsite. My tent set up and food safely stored in the provided metal boxes, I went over to the tiny beach and sat on a driftwood log, relaxing under the sun’s warm rays.

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1. Catalina Island’s Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel. (James Murren) 2. The island at dusk. (James Murren / For The Times)

In the middle of the night, as I mentioned above, a lone bison visited my campsite. Thankfully, nothing happened to me (other than not getting much sleep from that point on to sunrise) but Catalina Island officials warn visitors that there is no safe distance away from the large animal. “Never approach, touch or attempt to feed bison. If you feel threatened, identify an escape route,” the Conservancy states. “Place a large object between you and the bison (tree, rock, vehicle), and give the bison a path to avoid you.”

Day two

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

(James Murren)

From the campground the next morning, I went around to Middle Ranch Road. More stunning views of the Pacific marked the first few miles as I climbed, then descended, and climbed some more. It was somewhere around 8:30 in the morning and it felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Eventually, Middle Ranch turned inland. The terrain was gradual in its ascent and once I reached Quail Valley and Middle Ranch, the recently graded road was fast hardpack that allowed for cranking away the miles. I was big-ringin’ it and cruising. Getting into a pedaling cadence was great.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

(James Murren)

Middle Ranch met up with Airport Road, where I turned right and pedaled to Stagecoach Road. Stagecoach descended to Avalon, the hard road quickly dropping with forever views of the big blue ocean.

My overnighter came to a close and I thought of moments during both days when I was by stunned by the beauty that surrounded me — I was even able to see snowcapped San Gorgonio back on the mainland. I thought of friends that I wanted to bring along next time. Yes, no doubt, there will be a next time.

ATLETICO MADRID boss Diego Simeone has escaped with a one-match ban for his Anfield Champions League red card.

Argentine Simeone was dismissed in the aftermath of Virgil van Dijk‘s stoppage time winner for Liverpool, when he became embroiled in a row with home fans.

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A huge skirmish boiled over when a member of the Atletico staff was accused of spitting and squirting water at Liverpool fans.

But after studying the referee’s and match delegate’s report and video images, Simeone was handed a single game ban for “unsporting conduct”.

It means the former midfielder has been banished from the dressing room and touchline for tonight’s home game with Eintracht Frankfurt.

No action has been taken against the member of the coaching staff, with Uefa seemingly keen to put the matter to bed, although Liverpool were fined £3,500 for fans throwing objects onto the pitch during the game.

Simeone walked out of his post-match press conference in response to a question over whether the insults he had received had been either racist or referred to the 1982 Falklands War.

Before that, the Argentine claimed he had been subjected to “insults for the whole game”.

He said: “Firstly I regret the part I played.

“It’s clear we are in a position where we do not have the right to react and it is not good when we react.

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“My reaction isn’t justifiable but do you know what it is like to be insulted for 90 minutes?

“I saw the third goal go in and I turned, the insults continued, and well, I’m a person.”

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SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL said: “Courage is rightly regarded as the foremost of the virtues, for upon it all the others depend.”

The truth of those words is highlighted by the heroics of RAF Flight Lieutenant John Cruickshank, who has died at the age 105.

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It was 81 years ago that he performed an extraordinary act of sustained bravery, as he defied the agony of multiple severe injuries to bring home his badly damaged plane after a lethal encounter with a U-boat off the coast of Norway.

For this deed he was awarded the Victoria Cross.

He was one of four Coastal Command airmen to receive this award, but his case was unique.

The other three had died in action and were honoured posthumously.

He had survived but it was a mighty close-run thing.

It was appropriate that this Scotsman of rock-hard resilience should hail from Aberdeen, long known as “the Granite City”.

He had left school in 1938 to become an apprentice in banking.

But the drumbeat of war was echoing across Europe so he volunteered for the Territorial Army, enlisting in the Royal Artillery.

Called up for service with this regiment in 1939, he transferred to the RAF two years later then went through initial flight instruction in Canada and the US.

Back in Britain, having won his wings as a pilot, he continued his training until March 1943 when he was assigned to 210 Squadron in Coastal Command, based at Sullom Voe in the Shetland Islands.

Man of modesty

His squadron’s main duty was to protect Allied ships from U-boats and they were equipped with the rugged and reliable American-built twin-engine Catalina flying boat.

It was on July 17, 1944, soon after D-Day, that the incident occurred which lifted John Cruickshank into the record book, but almost killed him.

He was piloting an anti- submarine patrol off Norway when his radio operator John Appleton picked up a blip on the Catalina’s equipment.

John began to home in on the target, whose status as a U-boat was confirmed by fire from its 37 mm gun.

Appleton wrote in his memoir: “The skipper manoeuvred into a perfect attacking position astern of the submarine, just out of range of the enemy gunfire. He gave a blast on the klaxon and started the attack run-in from about two miles.”

As the plane got closer, flak from the U-boat intensified and was reinforced as its two pairs of 20mm cannon opened up.

The skipper manoeuvred into a perfect attacking position astern of the submarine, just out of range of the enemy gunfire. He gave a blast on the klaxon and started the attack run-in from about two miles

John Appleton

John flew on and appeared to have released the depth charges at the right moment.

But the bombs had hung up, so he then took the plane out of range of the U-boat, while his crew rearmed their own guns and checked the bomb-release mechanism.

“Everyone ready! Here we go again,” said John over the intercom.

Of the second attack, Appleton recalled: “This time all the flak was bursting much closer to us and I was surprised at how thick it could be.

“We seemed to be flying into a wall of black explosions.”

But again, John descended upon the target without hesitation.

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This time the depth charges hit their target with deadly accuracy. Seconds later, the U-boat began to sink. None of the 52 men on board had a chance of survival.

But by now John’s plane, caught by more enemy fire, was in serious trouble.

Flames and smoke began to fill the aircraft. The radar was wrecked and the nose canopy shattered.

One crewman was dead and four others were badly wounded, including John, who had been hit in his chest and legs and was bleeding heavily.

But all was not lost. With the use of extinguishers, some of the uninjured crewmen put out the fire.

As the co-pilot took over the controls, John was carried to the back of the plane.

Throughout, he set an example of determination, fortitude and devotion to duty in keeping with the highest traditions of the service

Citation from Victoria Cross ceremony

Lapsing in and out of consciousness, he was in tremendous pain but refused any morphine from the emergency safety kit because he wanted to keep alert so he could help bring the Catalina boat plane home to Sullom Voe.

With almost superhuman fortitude, he returned to the cockpit to oversee the final descent just as dawn was breaking.

After landing successfully on the water, he ran the shattered plane on to the beach.

He had to be given an emergency blood transfusion before being taken to Lerwick Hospital, where he was found to have suffered 72 wounds.

Yet, by September, he was fit enough to receive the Victoria Cross from King George VI in Edinburgh, the first time Holyrood House had been used for an investiture since the reign of Queen Victoria.

His citation read: “Throughout, he set an example of determination, fortitude and devotion to duty in keeping with the highest traditions of the service.”

From a generation that never sought the spotlight

Barney Crockett

But he was a man of profound modesty who hated talking about his exploits.

Even at his investiture, he crept out of a side door afterwards to avoid the attention of the press and public.

In the same vein, when he had regained consciousness in the stricken Catalina, the first thing he said was: “How are my crew?”

Though he had recuperated imp-ressively in hospital, the legacy of his injuries was too severe to allow him to return to flying duties, so for the rest of the war he held a staff job at Coastal Command HQ.

Later, on demobilisation at the end of the war, he resumed his career in banking, eventually working in international finance before he retired in 1977.

Happily married, he lost his beloved wife Marion in 1985.

In his final years, in sheltered accommodation, he disliked any fuss, whether about his VC or his birthdays.

Barney Crockett, the former Lord Provost of his native Aberdeen, once said John was “from a generation that never sought the spotlight”.

But it was also the generation that saved the world from tyranny.

The acclaimed novel was turned into a groundbreaking series

A period piece based on an acclaimed novel is now streaming and a must watch for any fans of costume dramas.

Audience members have praised the limited series on IMDb, with one user giving a 10/10 review and the title: “A skilled adaptation of an extraordinary novel”.

A second person titled their review “sublime” and said: “The BBC has done it again: this is a wonderful production of a very good book, and they have done it up in style.”

Another person heaped praised on the programme: “The sets and costumes are flawless, the direction is stylish and the characters are likeable. There is a fair amount of humor [sic] but it has surprisingly dark interludes. The protagonist is really a tragic figure, but not devoid of happiness.”

They added: “The BBC have made some wonderful productions in the past, and this adventurous period piece only confirms their standard of excellence on all fronts.”

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A fourth commented: “This wonderful 3 part BBC production is one of the sweetest love stories that I have seen in a while.”

They went on to say: “The characters are well defined and very believable. I guess this is a by-product of a good adaptation from a well written novel.”

Tipping the Velvet aired on the BBC in 2022, based on Welsh author Sarah Waters 1998 debut novel of the same name.

The three-part series saw Pride and Prejudice and The Fortunes and Misfortunes of Moll Flanders screenwriter Andrew Davies overseeing the scripts.

Tipping the Velvet was set in the Victorian era and followed the sexual awakening of Whitstable native Nan Astley (played by Rachael Stirling) after she headed to the big smoke of London and fell in love with male impersonator Kitty Butler (Keeley Hawes).

The pair embarked on a passionate romance as Nan funded her life in London, before the pair form an onstage double-act.

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The series was a coming-of-age tale with moments of humour and darkness with a bawdy twist.

Tipping the Velvet featured a stellar cast, including Four Weddings and a Funeral star Anna Chancellor, Game of Thrones’ Jodhi May, Oscar nominee Sally Hawkins, Line of Duty’s Daniel Mays, Downton Abbey favourite Hugh Bonneville, Monica Dolan of Appropriate Adult fame, and even a turns from Doctor Stranger star Benedict Cumberbatch, Johnny Vegas and Alexei Sayle.

Both the TV series and novel have had a positive impact on the depiction of queer characters on screen and led to more LGBTQIA+ stories to be told onscreen.

Previously reflecting on the success of her novel and the subsequent BBC adaptation, author Waters wrote at length about it in 2018, marking the book’s 20th anniversary.

She explained in The Guardian how she was “thrilled” by the reception among the queer community but the success among straight readers “took me by surprise”.

Waters also pondered on whether she’d write a sequel and would focus on Kitty.

Tipping the Velvet is available to stream on Prime Video for a fee

A 125-year-old Jacobean-style mansion is hitting the auction block for just £288,000.

The catch? Prospective buyers can only view it from a distance.

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Shire Hall, in Llangefni on the island of Anglesey, north Wales, was built in 1899 and sits overlooking the Afon Cefni river.

It was originally constructed of stone at a cost of £4,453, with an extension added in 1912.

Once used as office space, the building is now derelict following a serious fire, and is considered unsafe to enter.

It’s set to be sold at auction between 20 and 22 May.

Viewings are restricted due to the building’s dangerous condition, including a collapsed roof and major structural damage.

Paul Fosh Auctions, which is handling the sale, says the site has planning permission in place for six riverside apartments.

However, they note that a more extensive development could be possible, depending on future discussions with the local council.

Gemma Vaughan from the auction house said: “The lot offers a most unusual and exciting opportunity for an investor/developer to acquire this historic building in the heart of Llangefni.”

Shire Hall stands on Glanhwfa Road, about a mile from the A55 expressway, which links the island to the rest of north Wales and Cheshire.

Anglesey is well known for its coastal walks and sandy beaches, although Shire Hall itself is far from the seaside charm – with only ruins remaining of its former grandeur.

The sale includes Shire Hall, along with around 90 other lots, in an online auction hosted by Paul Fosh Auctions, starting at 12 noon and running from May 20 to 22.

Another property has left Brits scratching their heads – not because of its price, but also because no one’s allowed inside.

Dubbed the “mansion you can’t go inside,” the eerie estate sits behind locked gates with no signs of life, yet manages to attract curious onlookers and conspiracy theories in equal measure.

Locals say the sprawling home has been sealed up for years, with perfectly manicured gardens but not a soul ever seen entering or leaving.

There’s no for-sale sign, no public records of recent ownership changes, and absolutely no explanation as to why the doors remain firmly shut.

Despite the mystery, the mansion has become an unlikely tourist magnet, with visitors travelling miles just to snap a photo at the gates.

It may not be Britain’s most expensive or oldest home, but it’s certainly one of the strangest, and its secrecy only adds to the eerie fascination.

This comes as Britain’s “loneliest house” went on the market for £250,000, but it comes with a huge catch.

Meanwhile, viewers of Britain’s Most Expensive Houses were left baffled by a rather unusual tactic used in a bid to sell a jaw-dropping £29m mansion.

Plus, the “UK’s smallest house“, measuring less than 2.5 metres wide, has hit the market for £200k – proving once again that when it comes to British property, size, access, and logic don’t always apply.

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