bike

As I fell asleep in a tent to the sounds of waves crashing on the beach and no cell phone service anywhere in the vicinity, I thought, this is the respite I needed. That is, until the wee hours of the morning when I heard something rumbling.

I slowly unzipped the tent door, poked my head out and saw it: a lone bison head-butting a picnic table, lifting one end into the air with alarming ease. I quickly snuck back into my hideaway and stayed quiet, listening to the gnarled sounds of this massive animal grazing just feet away from me.

A North American Bison roams free and grazes near Little Harbor campground in Catalina

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The experience of bikepacking around Catalina Island was more than I had expected — both in its natural beauty and in its surprises. Within two days, 40-plus miles and some 5,000 feet of elevation, I was gobsmacked by the vistas, the morning light on the canyons and the solitude on the campground — aside from the abundant wildlife.

While not an “easy” trip (did I mention 5,000 feet in elevation?), the route from Catalina’s East End to Little Harbor and back to Avalon is one I’d recommend to both experienced adventurers and those newer to bikepacking, a blend of cycling and backpacking. It just requires some planning. Here’s what you should know, from getting your bike pass to planning out your stops.

Before the trip

The author’s bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

(James Murren)

Make your bicycle, camping and Catalina Express reservations

All cyclists on Catalina Island must have a Freewheeler Bike Pass, which can be obtained by purchasing a Catalina Island Conservancy membership. The cheapest $50 membership gets you one bike pass for the year, along with free admission to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden, discounts on Catalina Island campsites and other perks.

Once you have a pass, you must book a reservation to ride on Conservancy land. (You’ll get your physical bike pass when you arrive on Avalon and visit the Trailhead Visitor Center or Two Harbors Visitor Services.)

Camping reservations are also made through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. I reserved one night at Little Harbor Campground, but if I were to do it again, I would book two nights.

To get to and from Catalina, take the Catalina Express, which runs multiple trips a day from three locations in the Los Angeles area. When purchasing your ticket, you’ll pay a separate “additional article” fee to bring your bike onto the ferry.

What to pack

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

(James Murren)

Your bike. I decided to bring my Surly Pugsley fat bike simply because I love my state of mind when I’m on it. I feel like I’m going with the flow, stopping and taking pictures and having a good time. Time is not of the essence. A gravel or mountain bike will work fine on Catalina. E-bikes with pedals are also permitted and hard-shelled helmets are required for all bikers.

Bikepacking bags, a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. Just note that you’re allowed two pieces of luggage on the Catalina Express.

Clothes. Bring whatever you like to ride in and sleep in at night. I’d suggest a light puffy jacket if there’s no rain in the forecast, and pants and thermal leggings to keep the chill off. If rain is expected, pack appropriately, but also know that the Conservancy does shut down the trails and roads if the conditions seem dangerous.

Food. Sustenance for an overnighter can be covered by using the Airport in the Sky Restaurant near the Catalina Airport as a feed station. You can also fill your water containers there. Have a nice-sized meal at the café and buy what you need to eat while on your bike. I had the café pack me a sandwich for camping that evening. You can also bring food supplies with you or stop by Vons on the island to get what you need. At Little Harbor Campground, there is potable water, along with Porta Potties and cold showers.

Note: Fuel canisters/containers are not permitted on the Catalina Express. When you arrive on Avalon, Chet’s Hardware offers small canisters. If you buy one and do not end up using it, they will allow you to return it if the seal is intact. I ended up not using my stove. Overnight oats and cold instant coffee got me going.

My bikepacking journey — and what you might expect

Day one

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

(James Murren)

I woke in Avalon and pedaled my fat bike along Pebbly Beach Road to the turnoff for Wrigley Road. Climbing up Wrigley, I turned left on Renton Road, going around the gate and ascending up the remote double track. I had not seen another person for quite a while as I biked deeper into the hinterlands of the island, connecting to East End Light Road. Along the “backside” of the southern end of Catalina, it felt even more remote. East End afforded stunning views of the ocean and San Clemente Island to the south.

East End Road met up with Divide Road, as the trail map showed. The ocean sparkled in the distance, little crystals dancing on its surface. I scanned for whales but didn’t see any this time.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

(James Murren)

The start of the route at East End Road.

(James Murren)

Divide Road merged with the Airport Road at the Wrigley Reservoir, which was empty of water. There was a slight challenge here, though, in that I came to a chain-link fence with an opening for people to step through. Luckily, a touring group in an open-air truck was going by and the driver pointed out that I could walk around the fence to the right, where there was a clear path to do so.

The Airport in the Sky was my lunch destination. My wife took a shuttle bus from the Conservancy to the airport and met up with me. After lunch, I set out from the airport on the mostly six-mile descent to Little Harbor campground. El Rancho Escondido Road had a bump or two along the way, breaking up the downhill riding with a little climbing. I turned right onto Little Harbor Road and made my way to my campsite. My tent set up and food safely stored in the provided metal boxes, I went over to the tiny beach and sat on a driftwood log, relaxing under the sun’s warm rays.

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1. Catalina Island’s Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel. (James Murren) 2. The island at dusk. (James Murren / For The Times)

In the middle of the night, as I mentioned above, a lone bison visited my campsite. Thankfully, nothing happened to me (other than not getting much sleep from that point on to sunrise) but Catalina Island officials warn visitors that there is no safe distance away from the large animal. “Never approach, touch or attempt to feed bison. If you feel threatened, identify an escape route,” the Conservancy states. “Place a large object between you and the bison (tree, rock, vehicle), and give the bison a path to avoid you.”

Day two

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

(James Murren)

From the campground the next morning, I went around to Middle Ranch Road. More stunning views of the Pacific marked the first few miles as I climbed, then descended, and climbed some more. It was somewhere around 8:30 in the morning and it felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Eventually, Middle Ranch turned inland. The terrain was gradual in its ascent and once I reached Quail Valley and Middle Ranch, the recently graded road was fast hardpack that allowed for cranking away the miles. I was big-ringin’ it and cruising. Getting into a pedaling cadence was great.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

(James Murren)

Middle Ranch met up with Airport Road, where I turned right and pedaled to Stagecoach Road. Stagecoach descended to Avalon, the hard road quickly dropping with forever views of the big blue ocean.

My overnighter came to a close and I thought of moments during both days when I was by stunned by the beauty that surrounded me — I was even able to see snowcapped San Gorgonio back on the mainland. I thought of friends that I wanted to bring along next time. Yes, no doubt, there will be a next time.

Tony Holliday, 57, was left with a fractured right leg, head and shoulder injuries after the crash – which happened after being given a complimentary quadbiking trip while on holiday

A holidaymaker who is suing TUI at the High Court following a quad bike crash has issued a stark warning to tourists while on excursions abroad after he suffered serious injuries which “should never have happened”.

Tony Holliday, who now suffers from post-traumatic stress disorder, required two operations on his right leg after he collided with rocks and was thrown from a quad bike while on an excursion in Cape Verde in March 2023.

The property developer travelled to the island, off the coast of west Africa, with his wife, Bev, and two of his daughters, Keeley and Rhianna.The 57-year-old, from Cockermouth, Cumbria, is suing TuUI UK, claiming it misrepresented the nature of the excursion and was negligent, and is seeking more than £500,000 in damages.

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Mr Holliday has now urged travellers to take precautions while abroad. He said: “Please check everything. If something doesn’t feel right… take the full checks, make sure everything’s there (and) the health and safety looks like it’s in place.” He continued: “We asked questions at the time but were not given the correct answers.”

Mrs Holliday, 54, said: “Make sure that you’ve got the right insurance in place, that you’re going through your tour operator, and just think carefully about the excursions that you take your family on and that you go on, and just to try and look out for things that we didn’t see.”

The family agreed to go on the free quad bike excursion as compensation for issues with lost luggage and rooms smelling of sewage earlier in the trip.

In court documents filed by law firm Stewarts, which is representing Mr Holliday, Sarah Prager KC said that TUI staff described the excursion as “suitable for total beginners”, despite the company saying online that it was an “off-road adventure”, an “action-packed excursion”, and “four adrenaline-pumping hours” on “very powerful machines”.

Mr Holliday believed the excursion was provided by Tui but later found out it was organised by a local provider. Mr Holliday continues to suffer from anxiety and issues with sleep following the incident, and said he “feels a second slower than where I should be”.

He said: “Although I went through it, I didn’t witness what my family had to witness, and I don’t think they’ll ever get that image out of their head. So it’s not just me who has suffered. I think the full family has suffered through this. It should never have happened.”

Mrs Holliday said: “It’s really strange when you’ve got a partner who has no fear… he gets himself out there and he loves the challenge, work-wise. It’s really strange to then find yourself in the position where he hasn’t got that confidence any more, and your life completely changes. He will get back, he will get back to where he is. We’ll make sure he does.”

Chris Deacon, international injury lawyer at Stewarts, said: “Sadly, every year I see cases like Tony’s, of people sustaining serious, life-changing injuries on holiday excursions. One of the key factors which influences whether a person can bring a compensation claim for their injuries is how the excursion (is) booked.

“This is because booking your excursion through your tour operator as part of your package holiday brings with it certain protections under the package travel regulations.

“If you book through a small, local provider, there is a risk they won’t be insured, fully or at all, with no safeguard that the tour operator may have risk assessed the provider or activity, and the added complication of potentially having to bring your legal case in a foreign jurisdiction.

“What is also worth knowing is that many travel insurance policies exclude high-risk activities such as quad biking, parachuting, bungee jumping and certain watersports. So even if you have travel insurance, don’t assume it will cover you for everything.”

A spokesperson for TUI said: “We are sorry that Mr Holliday was injured during his holiday to Cape Verde. As this is now a legal matter, we are unable to comment any further at this time.”

Tui is understood to be opposing the claim and is due to file its defence at the High Court later this year.

A DAREDEVIL TT rider cheated death after slamming into a jumbo-sized seagull at 150mph – and somehow stayed in the saddle.

Mark Parrett, 55, was tearing through the famous Isle of Man course when the feathered missile hit him head on.

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The 3kg bird busted his lower arm, snapping one bone in two, and dislocating his wrist.

Mark, a TT veteran with 98 starts under his belt, miraculously managed to stay in control of his powerful BMW superbike.

The speedster, from Midhurst, West Sussex, was airlifted to hospital after the smash earlier this month.

He told The Sun: “It’s a bit of a miracle I stayed upright.

“It was a huge seagull – they’re all massive on the Isle of Man – and it just shot up out of nowhere.

“I was doing 140 or 150mph so there was no way of avoiding it. I had to just grin and bear it.

“It felt like being hit by a cannonball. If it had hit me in the chest or the helmet, I’d be history.

“I was lucky that I didn’t come off the bike.”

Pictures posted on social media show his racing leathers drenched in bird guts.

Mark, a self-employed electrician by day who now faces surgery to plate and pin the break, later joked: “Parrett one. Seagull nil.

“It does go to show Parrett’s are birds of prey after all.”

He added: “I’ve had enough laps around that place to know the worst thing you can do is panic.

“It’s the nature of the circuit – you can hit all sorts of things.”

Mark is aiming to return to the Isle of Man next year for his 100th start.

He added: “I’m getting too old to be doing this, but it’s like an addiction. I will be back there next year, whatever happens.”

A post on the Facebook page of Mark Parrott Racing read: “A local seagull lay in wait for ‘The Parrett’ on the approach to the 33rd milestone and hit Mark on the left arm.

“He soon realised that it was rather serious when he tried to pull in the clutch and his left hand wasn’t working.”

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Video shows a young man carrying his dead father on a bicycle, after he was shot while trying to secure food parcels at a US-backed aid site in Gaza. Israeli forces, backed by gangs, have killed more than 220 people at the aid distribution sites in Rafah and the Netzarim corridor since they opened.