This popular tourist town started as a small fishing village and is now an iconic British location
This seaside town had a lot to offer – but the beach wasn’t one of them(Image: Getty Images)
Summer is here and the temperature is rising. If you’re like me and live in a city with no easy access to the beach, fleeing the urban sprawl for a seaside town is a very tempting idea. It was this idea that struck my boyfriend and I a few weeks ago when we decided to get out of London for the day and head to the coastal city of Brighton for some fresh air and sunshine.
I had visited before, but never as an adult. On the weekend we decided to take our trip, temperatures in London were forecast to soar above 30°C, and it felt like the perfect excuse to escape the capital and breathe in some fresh sea air.
Brighton may now be one of the UK’s best-known seaside destinations, where millions flock every summer but it didn’t always feel that way.
From fishing village to tourism hotspot
In the 18th century this once small fishing settlement began to become a tourist destination for Britain’s wealthy. At the time, there was a belief that sea air, bathing in the ocean and even drinking seawater could have health benefits – and so Brighton became one of the UK’s first wellness retreats.
It was also a favourite of King George IV who created the Royal Pavilion – one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
He’s not the only member of the elite who loved Brighton.
The city’s mix of history, creativity and seaside charm continues to draw artists and performers and it is easy to see why.
The city of Brighton has long since been a haven for famous creatives. From DJ Fatboy Slim to Oscar winner Cate Blanchett, Brighton has been home to all sorts of famous people.
When the railway arrived in the 19th century, it became more accessible for people from London (like my boyfriend and myself) which helped Brighton become even more popular now.
Today, Brighton is still an incredibly popular place to visit – and the railway is still letting Londoners flock to the sea in droves, as we found out.
Joining the crowds
The moment my boyfriend and I arrived at London Bridge to catch our train,it became abundantly clear we had no chance of getting a seat. It seemed almost everyone in London had decided to spend the day by the seaside.
The carriages were so rammed that the train bypassed several stops and took us directly to Brighton. As we travelled towards the coast alongside droves of heat-weary Londoners, I quickly realised that spending the day on the beach was not at the top of my agenda.
For one thing, I hadn’t brought a swimming costume. For another, I’m from New Zealand, where beaches are often made up of pristine white sand and, even at the height of summer, can be blissfully quiet.
The prospect of squeezing onto Brighton’s pebbles alongside thousands of strangers held absolutely no appeal.
Instead, we hopped off our train and headed for North Laine.
And escaping them
Tucked away in the heart of Brighton, North Laine is a vibrant maze of colourful streets and winding lanes packed with independent shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants.
While much of the bank holiday crowd had gravitated towards the seafront, North Laine felt noticeably calmer.
We wandered through the lively streets, dipping in and out of shops as we went. There was everything from jewellery and homeware to driftwood art and vintage clothing, with something to suit almost every taste.
For me, it was the perfect way to while away an afternoon — and a far more appealing alternative to fighting for a patch of pebbles.
After a few hours of browsing, we had worked up an appetite and began the hunt for somewhere to eat.
We settled on Mange Tout, an independent French restaurant tucked away in North Laine.
Having travelled from London during a bank holiday heatwave, we had prepared ourselves for a scramble to find a table or the prospect of being added to a lengthy waiting list.
Instead, we had our pick of tables.
We sat outside in the glorious sunshine, watching the world drift by. It felt worlds away from the mayhem we knew was unfolding on the seafront.
For lunch, my boyfriend ordered a breakfast bun while I tucked into moules marinière. We washed it all down with a couple of drinks — we were on holiday, after all.
Seeing the sea – and the surprise cost
After lunch, we decided we couldn’t visit Brighton without at least catching a glimpse of the sea.
We made our way back through North Laine towards the coast, stopping in several shops we had overlooked during our first walk.
Eventually, the ocean came into view.
I had expected the beach to be busy, but the sheer number of people sprawled across it had to be seen to be believed.
As far as the eye could see in both directions, the pebbled shore was packed with sunbathers, paddlers and groups sheltering beneath umbrellas.
Out at sea, jet skis darted back and forth while one particularly intrepid snorkeller ventured further and further from the shore.
In the distance, the outline of a wind farm stretched across the horizon. Curious to get a closer look, we decided to head down the pier.
Entry to the pier cost £1 each — another surprise — and as we made our way along it, we passed through an enormous arcade roughly halfway down. It was one of two arcades on the pier and, much like the beach, it was absolutely heaving.
The space was dark, deafening and so stifling that I felt as though I had tumbled straight off the pier and into the water below. Horrified, I quietly turned to my boyfriend and asked: “Why does this even exist? Who comes to the beach just to be inside?”
He immediately replied: “How often do you think the weather is actually good here?”
He had a point.
The pier was certainly an experience — although not one I would particularly rush to repeat. That said, if I were seven years old, I imagine it would feel utterly magical.
There were fairground rides, candy floss and doughnuts, all accompanied by the sound of waves lapping beneath your feet. Sadly, I’m 31, and the thrill of a fairground ride is well and truly lost on me.
Will I ever return?
Once we reached the end of the pier, we agreed it was time to make our way back to London.
But not before making one final stop in North Laine for a well-earned end-of-day pint.
Brighton’s beach may be its biggest draw, particularly when temperatures climb above 30°C, but for me, the city’s real charm was found away from the packed pebbles.
And while I may not have been tempted to join the crowds on the beach, I’ll happily return to explore more of Brighton’s vibrant streets.