Tuscany is often sold on Florence and Pisa, but a walled city I visited in late September stood out for its piazzas, rooftop views and brilliant food. With averages of 15°C in November and 12°C in December — and far fewer crowds — it’s ideal for a winter break.
One Italian city is often overlooked for the likes of Florence or Pisa(Image: Chloe Dobinson)
Nestled in the heart of Italy, Tuscany is celebrated for its gently rolling hills, charming medieval villages, vast vineyards and iconic Renaissance masterpieces. Boasting mouth-watering local food and a relaxed pace of life, the region has something for every holidaymaker seeking the very best of Italian culture.
Tourists can spend their mornings strolling through ancient towns, savour unhurried lunches with vineyard views, and watch the sun dip below the horizon with a glass of locally produced wine in hand. Having visited the region in late September, I find it equally worthwhile to head there in November and December as a winter getaway.
Average temperatures in the city are around 15°C in November and 12°C in December.
Tuscany is made up of 10 provinces, with its capital, Florence, celebrated for its extraordinary Renaissance heritage, iconic artwork and breathtaking architecture.
Other provinces include: Arezzo, Grosseto, Livorno, Massa-Carrara, Pistoia, Prato and Siena.
Florence and Pisa tend to be the first places that spring to mind when Tuscany is mentioned, yet one destination I discovered on my travels left a lasting impression — Lucca.
What is Lucca famous for?
The historic city walls
Among Lucca’s most treasured landmarks is its four-kilometre circuit of Renaissance walls, built between the 16th and 17th centuries. Originally constructed for defensive purposes, the walls today serve as a tree-lined public walkway, giving visitors the opportunity to stroll or cycle while soaking up sweeping views of the ancient city below.
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Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro stands as one of Lucca’s most striking landmarks. Constructed on the foundations of an ancient Roman amphitheatre, the oval-shaped piazza is surrounded by vibrant buildings, cafés and eateries, creating an idyllic spot to unwind and absorb the city’s ambience.
I stopped for lunch and took in the delightful views across the square. Prices here are typically a touch steeper, though that’s hardly surprising.
I opted for boar ravioli at €9.60 (£8.07). It might not seem expensive, but the serving was modest, leaving me rather peckish afterwards. Worth remembering when dining in a popular tourist area.
Torre Guinigi
The medieval Torre Guinigi ranks among Lucca’s most peculiar attractions, instantly recognisable for the oak trees flourishing in its rooftop garden. Visitors can ascend to the top for panoramic views over the city’s terracotta rooftops and the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
Lucca Cathedral
The Cathedral of San Martino is celebrated for its ornate Romanesque design, beautifully decorated marble frontage and impressive collection of sacred artworks.
Other significant religious sites include the Basilica of San Frediano, distinguished by its eye-catching mosaic exterior, and the Church of San Michele in Foro, positioned in a historic piazza at the city’s centre. When is the best time to visit Tuscany?
Lucca tends to be far less crowded during the winter months, making it an ideal period to discover its museums, historic churches and traditional eateries.
The city is perfectly suited to those who prefer to explore on foot. We covered the whole place in just half a day without relying on public transport, though a full day or longer is recommended if your schedule allows. That said, visitors should be ready for chillier temperatures and a higher likelihood of rain.
How to get to Lucca?
The most straightforward route from the UK to Lucca is to fly into Pisa, then continue onwards by train, taxi, or hire car.
By car, the trip typically takes around 30 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic.
By train, passengers can hop on a service from Pisa Centrale to Lucca railway station, with the journey usually taking around 25 to 30 minutes. Extra time should be factored in to travel from the airport to Pisa Centrale.
Direct return flights from London to Pisa are priced at around £31 in November and £32 in December (at the time of writing).